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Expand-A-Bags
NOTE:
The pictures displayed are from two different bags the larger and the smaller bag; the fabric will vary between the two bags as photos attached are representations
from either bag.
Tips
I always cut my pattern for the bag so that the width is cut on the crosswise length to give the bag room to stretch width wise. You do not want the fabric to stretch lengthwise as this will
distort the bag when more items are added. Below is an example of fabric on the fold. Be sure that your fabric is square.
Top Section
11 x 7
Middle Section
11 x 10
Crosswise
Crosswise grain
Folded Edge
Lengthwise grain
Lengthwise
The middle and top piece would be cut on coordinating
fabric - not as shown above.
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4. You will now have 4 pieces with each of the corners cut out.
Instructions:
BOTTOM SECTION (cut the width on the crosswise as indicated in Illustration 1
on page 2)
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Lining
6. You will now construct the lining of the bag by taking two
pieces of the fabric, with right sides placed together, and
sew each seam line . You will do both side edges and the
bottom edge.
9. You will now have the seams matched up. Pin and run a
straight stitch.
10. Do this for the other side as well. Your inner bottom liner is
now complete. Set aside for now.
7. Take the constructed piece to the ironing board and iron
open the seams.
8. You will now construct the corners of the lining. Take the
bottom edge of the lining at the seam on one side and
match it up to the side seam.
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16. Pin in a couple places just to hold them together. Set aside
as you work on the next two layers.
13. You will need to sew it together with the fabric face down on
the machine, as the batting or stabilizer will tend to slide or
get hung up if you do it the other way. Complete the
remaining fabric A and stabilizer the same way
straight stitch
Leave as raw edge to
be tucked in later
14. You will now construct the outside of the bag bottom the
same way you did in steps 7 & 8.
18. Press the seam open. You will also fold down one of the unsewn ends to create a hem. (See Illustration above).
15. Now that both bottom sections are constructed, you will
place the lining inside the other bottom section with the
WRONG sides of fabric A facing each other.
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19. Now you will fold the RIGHT sides together, matching up
the seams. You will have a folded piece that is now 45 in
length and 5 in width.
20. Once you have sewn the bottom seam, you will then turn
this piece inside out and take it to the ironing board,
pressing the seam open with it placed in the center of the
section. I do this so that it will not be placed at a seam point
of the sections and cause bulkiness. The placement of the
seam in the middle of this section helps for when the bag is
folded and zippered.
21. You are now going to tuck the raw edge of the other side
into the side that has the casing. Be sure to line it up
in. (I cheat and iron a seam and then just quickly
pressed it back open leaving a slight line there for me to use
as a guide for accurate lining up of the two pieces).
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28. We will first sew the bottom section & zipper together. Place
the zipper face down and pin in place. Once all pinned and
the zipper lines up correctly, sew a basting stitch to hold the
zipper in place.
25. Slide the batting into each end of the finished pieces to add
stability to the top of the bag.
29. Take the middle section (with the seam facing out) place it
on the outside of the bottom section and zipper being sure
to match up ends pinning in place as you go.
26. Now complete step 22 as you did for the middle section.
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30. Sew a straight stitch with a zipper foot all around. Do this
twice to reinforce the seam.
(I trim the inside seam of the RAW Fabric back just 1/8
before I top stitch the top of the bottom section to the
zipper part. This will reinforce the seam and hide the raw
edge leaving a completed seam.)
32. Straight stitch the bottom section to the zipper for a finished
look.
33. You will now work on the middle and top section. I fold the
middle section in half and tuck it into the bottom section.
31. Flip the zipper face up on the fabric and pull the middle
section nice and tight to take out any creases.
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34. Line up the middle top lip with the zipper top part and the
top section of the bag and pin being sure that the seam is
facing out sew a straight stitch.
35. To explain this in more detail, you will take the middle
section top lip you tucked in and line it up with the top part
of the zipper. At the same time, you will also line up the
end of the top section that you have placed around the
outside of the bag (seam facing out) and pin that as well.
Once it is pinned in place, you should have a nice finished
look with your middle section neatly folded into the bag.
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39. Insert the nylon handle into the Fabric handle to give the
handle more strength and stability.
40. Attach the handles to the top of the bag in the position you
would like them. I placed them 4 from each side seam of
the bag and 1 down from the top.
43. To create the cover for the chipboard you will press and set
the two short ends with a hem. I created a template
from Cardstock to get a perfectly straight hem line. You
will fold the end over the cardstock as the cardstock works
as a template and stopper on how much to fold over.
41. Sew a cross stitch into the handle. I call it the barn door
stitch. I do this several times for each handle end for
stability.
Your bag is almost done. I opted for a ribbon and button
closure. You could add a magnetic snap by adding it BEFORE
you construct the top piece.
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44. Fold over right sides together hemmed end to hemmed end
and sew a straight stitch. Clip corner.
You may not create a finished product for sale in any manner from these
instructions.
I have made every effort to be sure that these instructions are complete. I
do not guarantee that there is no human error or typographical error that
has gone unnoticed.
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