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eo Onsen oN ws PETROL MRS hee) Service and Repair Manual Contents LIVING WITH YOUR TOYOTA CARINA E Introduction Page 0-4 Safety first! Page 0°85 Roadside Repairs ‘If your car won't start Page 06 Jump starting Page 0-7 Wheel changing Page 0-8 Identifying leaks Page 09 Towing Page 0-8 Weekly Checks Introduction Page _0+10 Underbonnet check points Page 0-10 Engine oil level Page O*11 Goolant level Page O-tt Gutch uid level Page 0-12 Brake fuid level Page 0-12 Power steering fuid level Page 0-13 Screen washer fluid level Page 0-13, Tyre condition and pressure = Page 0-14 Wiper blades Page 0-15 Battery Page 0-16, Bulbs and fuses Page 0-16 ‘Tyre pressures Page 0-16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0-17 MAINTENANCE Routine Maintenance and Servicing Servicing specifications Page 192 Maintenance schedule Page 1 Maintenance procedures Page 18 Contents REPAIRS AND OVERHAUL Engine and Associated Systems Engine in-car repair procedures Page 2Ae1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2B+1 ooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page Set Fuel and exhaust systems Page 4A+1 Emissions control systems Page 4B+1 ‘Starting and charging systems Page SAst ignition system Page SB+1 Transmission Clutch Page _6+1 Manual transmission Page TAst ‘Automatic transmission Page 78+ Driveshatts Page 6-4 Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9+ ‘Suspension and steering Page 10-4 Body equipment Bodywork and ftings Page 1101 Body electrical systems Page 1261 Wiring Diagrams Page 12614 REFERENCE Dimensions and Weights Page _REF+1 Conversion Factors Page _REF+2 Buying Spare Parts and Vehicle Identification Page REF*S General Repair Procedures 4 Pago REF+4 Jacking and Vehicle Suppor Page _REF*S Radio“cassette unit Anti-theft system Page REF*5 Tools and Working Facilities Page REFS MOT test checks Page REF®6 Fault Finding Page REF*12 Glossary of Technical Terms Page REF+19 Index Page REF+24 oea Introduction ‘The Toyota Carina E was introduced to the UK in May 1982 in Saloon, Hatchback and Estate versions, with a choice of 1.6 or 2.0 tre engines. {A models were fitted with power steering and a catalytic converte. Executive and GTi models were fitted with ABS as standard. From ‘September 1994 all modele were fitted with adver’ airbag, previous to this the driver's ar bag was standard on Executive and GTi models. ‘All models are fitted with an independent McPherson-type front ‘suspension incorporating a telescopic shock absorber and col spring, {and an independent dual-ink strut rar suspension with integral shock absorbers and an ant-oll ar. Provided that regular servicing is caried out in accordance with the manufactures recommendations, the Toyota Carina E should prove ‘extremely reliable and economical. The engine compartment is well designed, and most of the items needing frequent attention are easily accessible. Toyota Carina E Estates The Toyota Carina E Team Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and ‘enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The ‘team responsible for the creation of this book included: Authors: Andy Legg Steve Rendle John Mead, Steve Churchill Paul Buckland Page make-up Workshop manager Photo Scans John Martin Paul Tanswell Steve Tanswell Roger Healing Matthew Marke Cover illustration & Line Art Wiring diagrams We hope the book will help you to get the maximum ‘enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability and preserve its resale value. Your Toyota Carina E Manual ‘The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your Vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, itis hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yoursalf. On simpler jobs, it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collet it. Perhaps ‘most important, alot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a {garage must charge to cover is labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components, so that their layout can be understood. Then tho tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence. Toyota Carina E GTi Saloon Acknowledgements Thanks are due to the Champion Spark Plug Company, who ‘suppl the ilustrations of various sparkplug conditions. Thanks are also duo to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the ‘workshop toois, and to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual, This manual isnot a direct reproduction ofthe vehicle manufacturers data, and its publication should not be taken as implying aay technical approval by the vehicle manufacturers or importers. ‘reat pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vohiclo manufacturers make alterations and design ‘changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which ‘they do not inform us. No lability can be accepted by the authors fr publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, oF ‘omissions from, the information given, Project vehicles “The main vehice used in the preparation ofthis manual, and which appears in many of the photographic sequences, was a 1996 Toyota Carina E 1.65 Hatchback with a 1587 co 4A-FE economy engine and ‘manual transmission. Also used was a 1994 Toyota Carina E 2.0GLi with a 1998 cc 8S-FE engine and automatic transmission. os Roadside repairs ‘The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You wil find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters. If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn 1 it's a model with automatic transmission, make sure the selectors in 'P’ or ‘N’ J Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight, © Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. if the headlights go very dim when you're trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend's car, battery connections Check he sect anc condition ofthe 3 Check that he spark plug HT lads ae Check hat the gnitlon ow tension wing securely connected tothe distributor cap If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal Is there fuel in the tank? 1D Is there moisture on electrical components under the bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious ‘dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system ‘electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coll wiring connector land HT leads. _ Pt 's securely connected to the dstbutor by pushing ther home Check that electrical connections are secure (withthe ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray ike WD40 If you suspect a problem due to damp ‘Check that the HT lead is securely Connected to the ignition col, and spray with water-dlepersant it necessary CCheck thatthe wiring plugs are securely Connected to the injectors Roadside repairs 0-7 Roe PN ere ct covet Jump starting es eee Mielec | viper umpysaring acarwings Vek sr thatthe booster bat i fae fp tuayoueranebiouha “Sigarataeen eierionenes ‘The battery has been drained by Precautions: ‘one in the vehicle. repeated attempts to start, or by eres » cramming avonae tiation amped Se I workng |” Before comectng te booster entrain) trou vette. property (altemator drivebelt siack battery, make sure that the ignition isthe two vehicles MUST NOT TOUGH. ‘or broken, aiternator wiring fault or ‘switched off. each other. Shortens tous ee 7 crs bai ack ok -Naneaee HAE aloo saws ance butey worm | ots heater wipers et) tr er PAEK thous for Sesion eer the positive (+) terminal ofthe fat the positive (4) terminal ofthe booster tothe negative () terminal of the battery battery booster battery PPG Connect tne other end ofthe black jump lead to bracket on the cylinder head, well away from the battery, onthe Vehicle to be started Make sure tha the jump leads wall not ‘come into contact withthe fan, ‘rivebelts oF other moving parts ofthe engine Star the engine using the booster battery, than with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection os Roadside repairs Wheel changing The details shown in the following photographs are from a Hatchback model however the tools are located in the same location on all models. Preparat D_ Whan a puncture occurs, stop as soon as Its safe tooo so. Park on fm level ground, possible, ‘and well ut of the way of other taf. 3. Use hazard waring lights if necessary. Changing the wheel “The jack is positioned in the right-hand rear ofthe luggage compartment. The brace is located beneath the jack Unscrew the stud and remove the retaining cup Locate the jack head inthe jacking point {and rise the vehicle until the whee is Clear of the ground ally... Remove the wheel chocks. n ooo Warning: Do not change a whee! in a situation where you risk being hit by ‘another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of. passing traffic while changing the wheel - itis easy to become distracted by the job in hand. 1D ttyouhave one, use a warning triangle to ‘alert other drivers of your presence. 1D Apply the handbrake and engage frst or reverse gear (or Park on models with ‘automatic transmission Fold back the boot carpet and unscrew ‘the plastic nut from the top ofthe spare ‘whee! retaining stud Remove the spare wheel from the wellin the rear luggage compartment (note that the outer side ofthe wheel is uppermost) Lite whee rom the stds ‘Stow the jack and tools in the corect locations inthe ca. Check the tye pressure on the wheel ust ited. itis low, orf you don't have a pressure ‘gauge with You, drve slowly tothe nearest garage and inflate the tyre tothe right pressure o Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired as soon as possible. 1D Chock the whee! diagonally opposite the ‘one being removed ~a couple of large stones wil do for this. Ifthe ground is sof, use a fat pioce of ‘wood to spread the load under the jack. ‘The jack handle is located on the Underside ofthe spare wheel cover, Use the end of the brace to prise off the whee! trim, Loosen the wheel nuts slightly before jacking up the car Tighten the whee! nuts securely. Ha, them checked for tightness using a torque wrench atthe earliest opportunity Roadside repairs o-s Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness “under the bonnet’ or ‘underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs Investigating. It can sometimes be dificult to decide where the leak is coming trom, eapecialy If the engine bay is very dirty ‘already. Leaking ol or fd can also be blown rearwards by the passage of ar under the car, Qiving a false impression of where the probiem lies. Sump oil Engine oll may leak from the can plug Antifreeze Warning: Most automotive olls ‘and fluids are poisonous. Wash ‘them off skin, and change out of ‘contaminated clothing, without delay, Identifying leaks aa ee aaa eka canal ee HINT) sce cocoa tome ae reat ee cola Pea pene Se ee ee, eereee eee See Inboard ends ofthe civeshats, Power steering fluid Leaking antitresze often leaves a erystaling posi ike this. ‘leak occurring at 2 wheel is almost Certainly brake fick Power steering fuid may lek fom the pipe ‘connectors on the steering rack When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home ~ or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage oF breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, But cabserve the folowing points: Use a proper tow-rope - they are not ‘expensive. The vehicle being toned must spay an ‘ON TOW signin its rear window. Always turn the ignition key to the ACC. position when the vehice is being towed, 20 thatthe steering lock is released, and thatthe rection indicator and brake lights will work. Only attach the tow-rope to the towing ‘eyes provided atthe front and rear ofthe ca. [DBefore boing towad,reloase the handbrake {and select neutral on the transmission. [Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only ‘operational withthe engine running, L1On models with power steering, greater- ‘than-usual steering etfor wil also be required Towing ‘The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. D Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting ot Only ative at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for stowing down at junctions. 710n models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. ori0 Weekly checks Introduction There are some very simple checks which reed only take a few minutes to carry out, but ‘which could save you a lot of inconvenience ‘and expense. These "Weekly checks’ require no great skill or special tos, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very wall spent, for example; 1D Keeping an eye on tyre condition and Pressures, will not only help to stop them ‘wearing out prematurely, but could also save your ie. 1 Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery- related faults are particularly ‘common, and a Quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these, Underbonnet check points (51H your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about itis when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly wil glve advance warning of this kind of problem, ifthe ol or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage willbe far ‘greater than flxing the leak, for exams 416 litre 4A-FE engine [A Engine oll evel cpstick B Engine ot iter cap © Coolant expansion tank D Brake fuid reservoir E Power steering ud reservoir F Screen washer fd reservoir G Battery 4 2.0 litre 3S-FE engine A. Engine oll eve dipstick B Engine ot iter cap © Coolant expansion tank D Brake tuid reservoir E Power steering fud reservoir F Screen washer fuld reservoir G Battery Weekly checks ov1: Engine oil level Before you start {¥ Make sure that your car ison level ground. Check the ol level before the car fs crven, ‘or atleast 5 minutes after the engine has been ‘itched of TUNE] the ol! is checked immediately after driving the HINT) venicte, some of tne off vi remain ‘in the upper engine ‘components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick! The correct oil ‘Modem engines place great demands on their Olt Its very important thatthe corect oll for Your car is Used (See “Lubricants and fluids") Car Care @ Ifyou have to ads ol frequently, you should ‘check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, land cheek for stains in the morning. f there fare no leaks, the engine may be burning oll (s00 “Fault Finding. ‘@ Always maintain the level between the Upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3) If the level is too low severe engine damage ‘may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfiled by adding to0 much oil ‘The dipstick top is often brightly coloured for easy identification (see "Underbonnet ‘check points” on page +10 for exact location), Withdraw the dipstick. Note the oil level on the end of the dlpstick, which should be between the upper (F)_mark and lower (L). mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of ol wil raise the level from the lower mark tothe upper mark Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oll rom the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw i again re il Is added through the filer ca Unscrew the cap and top-up the level: a funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the ol slowly, checking the level on the dipstick atten. Don't overfl (see “Car Care” let, Coolant level Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the radiator pressure cap when the engine is hot, there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open Containers of coolant about, as itis poisonous. Car Care ‘@ With a sealed.type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. frequent topping-up is required, itis likely there ls leak. Check the radiator, all hhosee and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and recity as necessary. {© tis important that antireeze is used in the ‘cooling system all year round, not jst during the winter months. Don't top-up with water ‘alone, a8 the antifreeze will bacome too diluted ‘The coolant lovel varies with the temp- erature of the engine. When the engine is ‘old, the coolant level should be between the FULL and LOW marks. If topping-up is necessary, wait unti the tengine Is cold then remove the expansion tank cap. The expansion tank is not pressurised since the pressure cap is located In the top ofthe radiator, however the system should be topped up with the engine cold ‘Add a mixture of water and antireeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level Is up to the FULL level mark, then rft the cap, oz Weekly checks Clutch fluid level Warning: © Brake fluid can harm your ‘eyes and damage painted Surfaces, so use extreme caution ‘when handling and pouring it. © Do not use fluid that he ‘been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. © Do not mix dierent types of fluid; mixing can cause damage tothe system ‘+ Make sure that your car is ‘on level ground. = Tho fluid level in the reservoir will drop slightly but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark. Safety First! 1 he reservoir rqures repeated topping- tp this isan indication of a fd. leak Somewhere in th system, which should be invechgeted immed Brake fluid level Waring: © Brake fluid can harm your ‘eyes and damage painted ‘surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it © Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture {rom the air, which can causo 2 dangerous loss of braking ‘effectiveness. INTE] * Make sure that your car is ‘on level ground. [HINT] + The fuid teve! inthe reservoir will drop slightly 25 ‘the brake pads wear down, but the fluid evel must never be allowed to drop below the "MIN" mark. Safety First! (01 the reservoir requires repeated topping Up this is an indication of a fhld. leak Somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately. (© leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been ‘checked. Never take any risks where brakes fare concerned ‘The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the clutch fuid reservoir filer neck. The fhid level must be kept within 5.0 mm of the MAX level mark ‘Caretully prise off the cap using your fingers, and inspect the fluid and filer neck. ifthe fluid is dirty the hydraulic system should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 6) 4] REMAX and MIN mara arenas on the brake fluid reservotr filler nack. The fluid level must be kept within 10.0 mm of the MAX lovel mark Carefully prise off the cap using your fingers, and inspect the fluid and filer neck. I the fluid is dit the hydrauiic ‘system should be drained and refiled (600 Chapter 6), 3 Hf topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic Carefully add fud, taking care not to spill itonto the surrounding components. Use only the specified fuid. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and Wipe off any spit ud, Note the special ruober float in the iler neck If topping-up is necessary, frst wipe ‘lean the area around the filer cap to prevent dit entering the hydraulic system. Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spil tonto the surounding components. Use only the specified fui; mixing diferent types can cause damage tothe system. After ‘opping-up tothe correct level, securely refit ‘the cap and wipe off any spilt id Weekly checks ovis Power steering fluid level Before you start: Park the vehicle on level ground, 1. Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. The engine should be turned of. (9) a (On models with the 4A-FE and 7A-FE ‘engines, the power steering fluid reservoir is located behind the right-hand ‘end ofthe engine. Wipe clean the area around the reservoir filer neck and unscrew the filer ceap/aipstick from the reservor. (On models with the 38-FE and 35-GE ‘engines, the reservoir is located on tho righthand side of the engine ‘compartment behind the washer fluid For the check to be ‘accurate, the steering must. not be ‘turned once the ‘engine has been stopped. rom MINT, he ‘Wipe clean the dipstick (models withthe 4A-FE and TA-FE engines) then refit it and remove it again. When the engines Cold, the Mui level should be within the COLD range on the dipstick; if itis hot the level should be within the HOT range on the dipstick | 5 On models with the 35-FE and 98-GE engines, the level marks are on the side of the power stooring fluid reservoir, anc the fluld level can be seen through the translucent body. With the engine cold, the fluid level should be within the COLD range.on the reservoir, if itis hot the level should be within the HOT range, Safety First! (©The need fo frequent topping-p indicates 2 ‘leak, which should be’ investigated immediately ‘When topping-up the power steering fic level (models with the 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines), use the specified type of fluid land do not overfil the reservoir. When the level is corect,securaly refit the cap, Hf topping-up is necessary (models with the 35-FE and 38-GE engines), frst wipe clean the area around the filer cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system, ‘then unscrew and remove the cap. Use the specified type of fluid and do not overfil the reservoir When the level is corect, screw on the cap securely Screen washer fluid level Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - whichis when you are Ikely to need it mast. Don't top up using plain water as the soreenwash will Become too diluted, and wil freeze during cold weather. Warning: On no account use coolant antifreeze in the washer system - this could discolour or ‘damage paintwork. The 7007 washer tid reser is located in the right-hand side of the engine compartment. The fluid level can be seen through the reservoir body. If topping-up is necessary, open the cap. ‘When topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwash additive in the quantities recommended on the bette. o-1a Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure 1t is very important that tyres are in good ‘condition, and at the correct pressure having 8 ty failure at any speed is highly dangerous. ‘Tyre wears influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. AS a {general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if) this is completely effective, you may have the ‘expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Flomove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause oflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that Tread Depth - visual check ‘The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The ‘band positions are indicated by a tlangular ‘mark onthe tye sidewall (A). the tyre has been punctured, reft the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then Immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and ‘utside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for ‘signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by “kerbing* whilst parking; steel wheels may ‘also become dented or buckled. A new whee! | very offen the only way to overcome severe damage. Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear can be ‘monitored witha simple, inexpensive device known asa tread depth indicator gauge. Tyre tread wear patterns New tyres should be balanced when they fitted, but it may become necessary to re- balance them as they wear, or ifthe balance ‘Weights fited to the wheel rim should fal of. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Whee! imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it likely that just the front wheels need balancing. however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of ‘balance. Wheel balancing should be carried ‘ut by a tyre dealer or garage. ‘Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has ‘been used, or an inaccurate setting wil resuit. Shoulder Wear Centre Wear Uneven Wear Underinflation (wear on both sides) Under-inflation wil cause overheating ofthe tyre, because the tyre wil lex too much, and the tread will not sit corectly onthe road surface, This will cause a lose of gp and ‘excessive wear, not to mention the danger of ‘sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. (Check and aqust pressures Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard comering Reduce speed! ‘Overinflation| (Over-inflation wil cause rapid wear of the Centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring inthe tyre casing. (Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified for ‘maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards. Front tyres may wear unevenly as a reauit of whee! misalignment. Most tyre dealers and ‘garages can check and adjust the wheel ‘alignment (or “racking” for a modest charge. Incorrect camber or castor ‘Repair or renew suspension parts Matfunctioning suspension ‘Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced whee! Balance tyres| Incorrect toe setting ‘Adjust front whee! alignment \Note: The feathered edge ofthe tread which ‘ypies toe wear is best checked by fel Weekly checks o-1s Wiper blades a ‘Slide the wiper blade out of the hooked fend of the arm, then feed the am through the hole in the blade. ‘Check the condition ofthe wiper blades: ©) Toremove a windscreen wiper blade. pull if they are cracked or show any signs of © the arm fully away from the screen untl it ‘deterioration, orf the glass swept area 's locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, and ‘smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should depress the locking tab with a screwdriver or 'be renewed annual your fingers. Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in “Safety first" at the start of this manual ‘¥ Make sure that the battery tray is in good Condition, and that the clamp is tight Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with @ solution cof water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all ‘leaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a2inc-based primer, then painted. ‘The battory is located in the front lef'- ©) Check the tighiness of the battery ¥ Periodically (approximately every three “| hand side of the engine compartment. © clamps (A) to ensure good electrical ‘months), check the charge condition of the The exterior of the battery should be connections. You should not be able to poy dedrrensieao bite ia oe Inspected periodically for damage such as a move them. Also check each cable (B) for 1 the battory is flat, and you need to jump cracked case or cover. cracks and frayed conductors Start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs. W corosion (ite, fy deposits) is |... as wol asthe battery cable clamps ‘evident, remove the cables trom the battery terminals, cloan them witha small wie brush, then raft them. Automotive stores ‘ela too! for cleaning the battery post. ovis Weekly checks Bulbs and fuses ‘¥-Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chap- ter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative If a single indicator light, stop light or headlight has failed, iis likely tha a bulb has blown and will need to be replaced, Reler to Chapter 12 for details. If both stop lights have flied, itis possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 9) ‘Visually check all accessible wiring Connectors, hamesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage, | more than one indicator ight oF tal ight has fled itis ikely that either a fuse has blown or that there isa fault in the cicult (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located behind a panel on the facia panel and in a {usebox located in the engine compartment (rotor to Chapter 12) To replace a fuse, pul it out using the plastic tweezers provided, and ft a new fuse ofthe correct rating (996 Chapter 12), I the fuse blows again it is important that you find out why ~ a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12. Tyre pressures (cold) - bar/psi Pressures with 1 to 4 passengers: 175/TOR14 tyres . é 185/65R14 86H tyres . 185/65R14 86V tyres 195/60 R15 tyres . Pressures with full oad” 175/TOR14 tyres... 185/65R14 86H tyres 185/65R14 86V tyres 195/60 R15 tyres .. Front 2.2/32 2.0/29 2.2/32 2.1/30 2.3/33 2.2/82 2.2132 2.1/30 Rear 2.1/30 1.9/28 2.0/29 1.9128 2.3/33 2.2/32 2.2/32 2.1/30 ‘Note: Pressures apply oly fo anginal equipment yr at speeds of up to 100 mph and may vary if any other make or type sft; chock with the tro ‘manufacturer or supplier for corect pressures, necessary. For pressures at higher speeds, consul the vehicle's handbook or your Toyota dealer. Lubricants and fluids 0-17 Lubricants and fluids Component or system Engi Cooling system Clutch system . Manual gearbox ‘Automatic transmission Braking system Power steering Lubricant type/specification Muttigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 15W/40, 10W/30 or 20W/50 to API SG or better (Duckhams GXR, QS, Hypergrade Plus, Hypergrade or 10W/40 Motor Oil) Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze and soft water (Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer Coolant) Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid) Hypoid gear oll, viscosity SAE 75W/90 gear oil to API GL-3 (Duckhams Hypoid 75W/90S) Dexron type Il automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic) Hydraulic fluid to SAE J1703F or DOT 4 (Quckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid) Dexron type Il automatic transmission fluid (ATF) (Duckhams Uni-Matic) Choosing your engine oil Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine's pertormance, the greater ‘the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines. HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS * Beating friction Without ol, the surfaces inside your engine wich rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special Adaitves, ors a molecular barter between ‘moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat bleu * Cooling hot spots Oi cools parts thatthe engine's water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in transferring the heat to the engine cooling system, Heat in the oli aso lost by at ow ver the sump, and via any auxiliary o cooler. + Cleaning the inner engine il washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them tothe ol iter, and hong ‘the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oll change. Duckhams Oils undergo extensive tests inthe laboratory, ‘and on the road. Note: It is ‘antisocial and ‘legal to dump oi! ‘down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling ‘bank, call this umber free. Engine oil types Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not lused in harsh conditions. . Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well sulted for use in most popular family cars Diesel olts such as Ducknams Diese! are specially formulated for Diesel engines, 2 fairy high price. One such is Duckhams OS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. ‘Somi-synthetie olls offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than ful synthetic ols. Ducknams QXF i an ideal choice for hot hatches and harc-dven cars. ‘For holp with technical ‘queries on hbricants, {all Duckhams Os ‘on 0181 200 8207 12 Servicing specifications Lubricants and fluids Refer to page 0+17 of ‘Weekiy checks” Capacities Engine oi Excluding fiter Including titer 1587 66 WAFE) 0ngI008 osc eesecceeeeseceeseeseseeseeves 28 ros 8.0 itres 1782 c= (7A-FE) engines 3.5 tires 3,7 tres 1908 cc (8S-FE) engines: Manual transmission models ....... ns sees 42 ros 46 tres ‘Automatic transmission modes 41 litres 45 res 1998 cc (8S-GE) engines 2 ‘4 40 1tres 45 tres Cooling system 1587 6¢ WA-FE) engines... ..esee+ as S.4itres 1762.60 (ACFE) engines «es eseseeee Satan 5.6 tires 1988 cc @S-FE) engines: Manual transmission models... 65 litres ‘Automatic transmission models .. 66 iitres 1988 cc (8S-GE) engines 66 tres Transmission Manual transmission .......0csscssesceseeseeeseeeeseseess 26 es ‘Automatic transmission rain and refil (approximate) 3.1 tres From dry 4A-FE engine models: ‘AZAOE transmissions 72 tires AZASE transmissions 76 tres 88-FE engine Modes... sees sseeseeeeeeeseeseee 80 litres Fuel tank models... +. pane 0 res Engine PRM eda E. Soaps tte ete sss Champion 6138 Valve clearances (cold engine: inlet Exhaust 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines Raut sess 031510025 mm 0.25 100.35 mm 38-FE engines... 0.19 10 0.29 mm 0.28 1000.38 mm 38-GE engines... 5 0.15 00.25 mm 0.20 100.30 mm Cooling system ‘Antireeze mixture: 28% antireeze oreo Protection down to -18%C 50% antitreeze ‘ : 12: Protection down to -30°C ‘Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer for lates recommendations. Fuel system Air fteroloment ‘Champion USES Fuel iter... cette ‘Champion L149 Idle speed and mixture settings fee speed" AA-FE engines: Manual ransmission models 750 + 60 rpm ‘Automatic trnemission models... 1800 + 50 rpm TAFE engines ..... 700 + 50 rpm 38-FE engine... ee 700 50 rpm ear Gias esc ARR S800 50 rpm ‘Mixture* ‘Al models - CO concentration «+++. 000.5% * Non-austabl for checking purposes ony Servicing specifications 1-3 etiam lgnition ting - sesteueessesetesneesecssessrecesesess Refor to Chaptor 5B Spark plugs": ‘Champion type Electrode gap 1587 cc (4A-FE) engines: Conventional engines ......- : . tenes ROTYCOS 1.4mm LLean-bun engines on 3 a RCB7PYX (Piatinum tipped) 1.2mm 1762 co (7A-FE) engines é LLL] ROB7PYX Piatinum tipped) 1.2mm 1998 cc (8S-FE and 3S-GE) engines Brace. toate HOTOO 1.0mm Spark plug HT lead resistances. 25 k ohms per HT lead maximum “Information on spark plug types and electrode gaps is as recommended by Champion Spark Plug. Where altemative types are used, refer to their ‘manufacturer's recommendations. Brakes Brake pad lining minimum thickness. past ain 1.0mm, ‘Brake sho friction material minimum thickness 4.0mm Handbrake lever travel oo: 4107 clicks of ratchet Front brake dise minimum thickness: All except 35-FE engine models 23.0.mm 3S-FE engine models - petite lvceomacge: PQ Fear brake disc minimum thickness S 2.0mm Tyre pressures Reter to page 0*16 of "Weekly checks” Auxiliary drivebelt deflection 4A-FE and TAFE engines: Altemator/water pump crivebet .<..-... cetceeeresess 11610135 mm ‘A conditioning compressor drvebelt 222.2022 20101 85 109.5mm. Power steering pump drivebett 6.01080mm 3S-FE engine: ‘Altemator drivebett 13.010 170mm ‘Altemator/air conditioning compressor drivebelt ..... 2... 9.010 11.0 mm Power steering pump drivebelt BEEIIINI, 10.01018.0mm 88-GE engine: ‘Alternator drivebelt alent vas toe chars es ZORRO Power steering pump drvetet . 10.010 13.0 mm ‘Altemator/air conditioning compressor drivebelt 13.010 160mm sees eaten inge Nm ort Roadwhoo! nuts ese. 108) 78 ‘Spark plugs ee Coe ce pies tert eee 13 ‘Sump drain plug 2 34 25 Manual transmission oll drain and filer plugs... =... ss. ry 36 ‘Automatic transmission uid drain plug Eady, 13 ‘Atematorto mounting bracket bolts... 54 40 ‘Aterator to adjustment ink: 4A-FE and TA-FE engines : chair ate 4 38-FE and 35-GE engines | 7 20 ‘Camshaft cover: “4A-FE and TAFE engines etre ciene teen 6 4 3S-FE and 3S-GE engines | “4 32 Notes 14 Toyota Carina E maintenance schedule ‘The maintenance intervals in this manval are provided with the assumption that you ‘ot the dealer, wil be carrying out the work ‘These are the minimum maintenance intervals recommended by us for vehicles driven dally. ‘often. We encourage because it enhances. the ‘ficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by @ factory-authorised dealer year, the service time/ileage intervals were f@xtended by the manufacturer to the periods. shown in this schedule. although these Intervals can be applied retrospectiv owners. of earler vehicles may “not If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures. more Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly ( Refer to “Weekly checks” Every 4500 miles (7500 km) or 6 months - whichever comes first Note: Frequent oi! and fiter changes are good for the engine. We recommend changing the ofa the mileage spectied here, or atleast twice a year ifthe mileage covered is les. 1 Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes first Check manual transmission oll level (Section 4) Check automatic transmission fluid level (Section 5) Check engine coolant strength (Section 6) Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt(s), and renew if necessary (Section 7) Check the idle speed and CO content (Section 8) Check the spark plugs and ignition system (Section 9) Check the evaporative loss emission control check valve (Section 10) Clean the air fiter element (Section 11) Hose and fluid leak check (Section 12) Check and adjust the brake pedal (Section 13) Check the brake vacuum servo unit (Section 14) Check and adjust the handbrake (Section 15) Check the front and (where applicable) rear brake pads and discs and renew if necessary’ (Section 16) Check the rear brake shoes and drums" (Section 17) Check the exhaust system (Section 18) Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 19) Check the condition of the driveshaft rubber gaiters and CV joints’ (Section 20) Check the battery (Section 21) Check the tightness of the roadwheel nuts (Section 22) Wheel alignment check (Section 23) heck the headlight beam alignment (Section 24) Lubricate door and bonnet hinges (Section 25) ‘Adjust the washer jets (Section 26) heck the condition, operation and security of all seat belts (Section 27) ‘Check the body for corrosion (Section 28) Renew the battery in the alarm remote control (ection 29) ( Carry out a road test (Section 30) “This should be performed more frequently i the vehicle I used in ‘Severe Conditions fe towing a traler, repeated short distances, dusty conditions et). Sooo COCCCOGEONOSAESSSsssS: oo service department, in order to preserve the factory warranty Tt should be noted that for the 1903 model discrepancy between this schedule and the fone shown in the Service Guide supplied with the vehicle. Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes first Inaction tothe tems sted above, carry ou the flowing: cl Renew the spark plugs, except engines fitted with platinum-tipped spark plugs (Section 31) Renew the fuel filter* (Section 32) _] Renew the air filter element* (Section 33) “This should be performed more frequenty f the vehicle is used in Severe Conditions fe towing a tale, repeated short distances, dusty conditions ete). Every 24 months In aidan to tho toms listed above, cary out the folowing: <) Renew the brake fluid (Section 34) Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) ineciton othe tos ted above, cay tthe owing _) Change the transmission oil/fluid* (Section 35) ) Renew the engine coolant (Section 36) “a art be peed iro eae PNM a Soren Codon Go oi a gece ena ae omenas Every 54 000 miles (90 000 km) In aston tothe items listed above, cary out the following: ©) Check and adjust the valve clearances (Section 37) Every 63 000 miles (105 000 km) In eckson tothe toms liste above, cary out the folowing: ) Renew the spark plugs, engines fitted with platinum-tipped spark plugs only (Section 31) | Renew the timing belt (Section 38) Maintenance - component location 1-5 Underbonnet view of a 1.6 litre 4A-FE engine model with manual transmission Engine oil filer cap Engine oil aipstick i fiter Brake master cylinder fluid reservoir Engine compartment fuse and relay box Alternator Coolant expansion tank Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir 9 Suspension strut upper ‘mounting 10 Air cleaner housing 11 Clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir 12 Ignition HT coil 13 Battery 14 Distributor 16 Radiator pressure cap 17 Power steering pump Underbonnet view of a 2.0 litre 3S-FE engine model with automatic transmission Engine oil filer cap Engine oil afpstick i fitter Brake master cylinder fluid reservoir Engine compartment fuse and relay box Alternator Coolant expansion tank Windscreen/tailgate washer fluid reservoir ‘Suspension strut upper ‘mounting 10 Air cleaner housing 11 Automatic transmission ‘uid level dipstick 12 EGR valve and modulator 13 Battery 14 Distributor (with internal ignition HT coi) 15 Power steering fluid reservoir 16 Radiator pressure cap 17 Ignition igniter module Maintenance - component location 1.7 Front underbody view of a 2.0 litre 3S-FE engine model with automatic transmission Radiator bottom hose Cooling fan temperature ‘switch Radiator Automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses 7 8 9 11 Exhaust system intermediate section Rear underbody view (1.6 litre model shown - other models similar) 1. Spare whee! well 2 Fuel tank filer hose ‘3. Rear suspension lower arms 4 Rear suspension strut/shock absorber 5. Handbrake cables 6 Rear suspension radius rod 7 Exhaust tailpipe and silencer 8 Exhaust heat shield 9 Fuel tank 18 Maintenance procedures 1 Introduction 1 This Chapter is designed to help the home ‘mechanic maintain hiiher vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. 2The Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, and Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful tems are included Fete to the accompanying ilustrations of the engine compartment and the underside ofthe Vehicle for the locations of the various ‘components. 3 Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileagerime maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned ‘maintenance programme, which should result Ina long and reliable service life. This is a ‘comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results 4 As you service your vehicle, you discover that many of the procedures can = ‘and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of two otherwise unrelated components to one another. For ‘example, i the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected atthe same time as the suspension and steering components, 5 The first step inthis maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the factual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried ‘ut, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. if a problem is encountered, seek advice trom a parts specials, or a dealer service department. 2 Intensive maintenance 1 If, from the time the vehicle is now, the routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made offic levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the neod for addtional work will be minimised, 2 It ls possible that there wil be times when the engine is running poorly due tothe lack of regular maintenance. This Is even more likly It'a used vahicla, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work ‘may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals 3 It engine wear is suspected, a compression test (reer to Chapter 2A) will provide valuable Information regarding the overall performance ‘of the main internal components. Such a test ‘can be used as a basis to decide on the extent (ofthe work to be carried out I, for example, @ ‘compression test indicates serious internal fengine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly Every 4500 miles (7500 km) or 6 months Improve the performance of the engine, and ‘may prove a waste of time and money, unless ‘extansive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following operations are those most Coften required to improve the performance of ‘a generally poor-running engine: Primary operations 4) Clean, inspect and test the battery (Weekly checks", Section 24 and Chapter 4). 1) Check all the engine-relatod fuids (CWeekiy checks’ ©) Cheek the condition and tension ofthe ausilary drivebets (Section 7. ) Renew the spark plugs (Section 31) ©) Inspect tne ignition HT leads (Section 9). 1) Check the conation of the air fiter, anc renew ifnecessary (Section 1). 9) Check the fuel iter (Section 32) /h) Check the condition of all hoses, and Check for uid leaks (Section 12). ') Check the exhaust gas emissions (Sec- ton 8) 5 It the above operations do not prove fully effective, cary out the following secondary operations: ‘Secondary operations Allitams listed under Primary operations, plus ‘the fallowing 4) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A) ') Gheck the ignition system (Chapter 56). ©) Check the fuel system (Chapter 48 and 46). ) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 9 and Chapter 56). 3 Engine oil and filter renewal : 1 Frequent oll and fiter changes are the most important preventative maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it becomes dlluted and contaminated, which leads to ‘premature engine wear. 2 Belore starting this procedure, gather together athe necessary tools and materials. ‘Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and newspapers handy, to mop up any ‘pls. Ideally, the engine oll should be warm, {a It will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust of any ‘ther hot parts of the engine when working ‘under the Vehicle. To avoid any possibilty of scalding, and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants. and other harmful contaminants in used engine ils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle wil be greatly improved if it can be ralged on a tit, driven onto ramps, oF jacked Lp and supported on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support). Whichever method is ‘chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level or, fit is at an angie, thatthe drain plug is atthe lowest point ‘3. Remove the oll filer cap from the engine ‘camshaft cover (twist It anti-clockwise and ‘withdraw i (see ilustration). 4 Using a spanner, oF preferably a suitable ‘Socket and bar, slacken the drain plug about ‘83 Removing the ol filer cap (4A-FE engines) draining container undor the drain plug, then remove the plug completsly (see Haynes Hind, Fscover the sealing ring from the drain pug. ‘Keep the drain plug pressed into the sump while un- ‘screwing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so the ‘stream of oll issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve! 3.4 Sump drain plug (4A-FE engines) Every 4500 miles or 6 months 1-9 ‘27 Oilfiter on the 36-FE engines 5 Allow some time for the oll o drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the Container asthe oil flow slows to a trickle. 6 Afterall the ol has drained, wipe the drain ‘lug and the sealing washer with a clean rag. Examine the condition of the sealing washer = renew it if it shows signs of scoring or other damage which may prevent an oil-tght seal ‘Clean the area around the drain plug opening, and refit the plug complete with the washer. Tighten the plug securely - preferably to the specified torque, using a torque wrench. 7 The oll fiter is located at the front right- hand side of the cylinder block - access is. ‘most easily obtained through the top of the ‘engine compartment (see illustration). {8 Move the container under the oi iter. 8 Use an ol fiter removal too f required) to slacken the fiter intially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oll trom the old fiter into the container. 10 Use a clean rag to remove all oll, lt and sludge from the fiter sealing area on the ‘engine. Check the ol iter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the ‘engine. Ifit has, carefully remove it ‘3.9 Using a chain strap to remove the oll filter (4A-FE engines) 114. Apply a light coating of clean engine oll to the sealing ring on the new iter, then screw the filter into position on the engine. Lightly tighten the fiter unt its sealing ring contacts the biock, then tighten it through a further two-thirds of a tum (see illustrations). 412 Remove the old oil and all tools from Under the vehicle then, if applicable, lower the vehicle tothe ground, 43 Fill the engine through the filler in the camshaft cover, using the correct grade and type of ol fefer to “Weekly checks” for details of topping-up). Pour in half the specified uantty of ol frst, then walt a few minutes for the ol to drain into the sump. Continue to add oil, a small quantty ata time, until the level is Up tothe lower mark on the dipstick. Adding a further 1.0 litre wil bring the level up to the Upper mark on the dipstick 44 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes, while checking for leaks around the Cl fiter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the low ol pressure warning light goes ‘Out when the engine is frst started, asthe oll Circulates through the new ol filter and the tengine ol galleries before the pressure builds ‘3.148 Apply a light coating of clean engine ‘il to the sealing ring on the new fiter '8.14b Screw on the new fiter by hand Uup. Do not run the engine above idle speed while the waming lights on. 45 Stop the engine, and wat a few minutes {or the oll to sotto in the sump once more. With the new oll ciculated and the fiter now ‘completely full, recheck the level on the ‘dipstick, and add more oll as necessary. 416 Dispose ofthe used engine oll safely, with ‘ference to General repair procedures in the Reference Section at the end of this mana Every 9000 miles (15 000 km) or 6 months 4 Manual transmission oil level check 1 Park the car on a level surface. The of level must be checked before the cals drivan, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been ‘witehed off. If the oll s checked immediately aiter driving the car, some of the oll wil remain distributed around the transmission Components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. To improve access, position the car ‘ver an inspection pit, or raise the car off the ‘ound and position on axle stands, making Sure the vehicle remains level to the ground. 2 Wipe clean the area around the file/level lug, which is on the front face of the transmission. Unscrew the plug and clean it (s0e istration). 3 Check the oil level with your finger, or by Inserting a home-made dipstick made from a short length of wire bent to shape. The oll Tevel should be no more than 5.0 mm below the lower edge of the filertevel hole. certain ‘amount of ol may have gathered behind the filecevel plug and wil often trickle out when tis removed; this does not necessarily indicate that the level is correct. To ensure that a true level is established, wait uni the 4.2 Unscrewing the filer/level plug from ‘the front face of the transmission intial trickle has stopped, then add oll as, necessary until atickle of new oll can be seen ‘emerging. The level willbe correct when the flow ceases; use only good-qualty oll of the spectied type (see ilustration), 4 On completion ref the fleriovel plug and tighten tothe specified torque. 43 Topping-up the manual transmission oll evel 1 i+10 Every 9000 miles or 6 months '5.4 Withdraw the automatic transmission ‘luld dipstick from its tube 5 Automatic transmission fluid level check 1 The level ofthe automatic transmission fuid should be carefully maintained. Low fui level can lead to slipping or loss of drive, while Cverfling can cause foaming loss of fia and transmission damage. 2 The transmission uid level should only be ‘checked when the transmission is hot (at its normal operating temperature). If the vehicle has just been driven over 10 miles (15 miles in cold climate), and the fluid temperature Is. 460 to 175°F, the transmission is hot. Caution: Ifthe vehicle has just been driven for a long timo at high speed or in city traffic in hot weather, or if it has been pulling a trailer, an accurate fluid level reading cannot be obtained. In the: ‘circumstances, allow the fluid to cool down for about 30 minutes. 3 Park the vehicle on level ground, apply the handbrake, and start the engine. While the engine is idling, depress the brake pedal and move the selector lever through all the gear positions, beginning and ending in P. 4 With the engine stil idling, remove the lipstick from its tube (see illustration). Note the condition and colour of the fluid on the dipstick '5 Wipe the fluid from the dipstick witha clean rag, and reinsert it into the filer tube until the cap seats. 6 Pl the dipstick out again, and note the fc level. The level should be between the two ‘notches on the epstick either side ofthe word HOT (eee ilustration). Note that there ae also ‘two notches on the dipstick either side ofthe word COLD. Ifthe car has not boon diven for ‘about five hours, and the fui fg at or below room temperature, the fuid should be between the two notches either side of the word COLD. ‘Checking the level withthe fuid cold should only be Used for reference and the level must be checked again when the fid is hot. 7'if the fluid level is near or below the ‘appropriate lower notch, stop the engine, and ‘add the specified automatic transmission fic through the dipstick tube, using a clean funnel if necessary (see illustration. It is important ‘5.66 Automatic transmission fluid level ‘markings on the dipstick ‘not to introduce dirt into the transmission ‘when topping-up. 8 Add the fuld a lite at atime, and keep ‘checking the level as previously described unt itis correct 9 The need for regular topping-up of the transmission fluid indicates a leak, which ‘should be found and rectified without delay. 40 The conaition of the fluid should also be ‘checked along withthe level f the fuid on the lipstick is black or a dark reddish-brown ‘colour, or if I has a bumed smell, the fluid ‘should be changed. Ifyou are in doubt about ‘the concition of the fud, purchase some new ‘lid, and compar the two for colour and sel. level ° Sonicme mem Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this 1 The coolant antifreeze strength can be checked using a proprietary tester obtained from a car accessory shop. One type of tester facts simiar to a battery hydrometer and has five small plastic balls within a clear tube - the Coolant strength is determined by the number Cf balls lating in the coolant. 2 To use the tester, lft the cap from the Coolant expansion tank and draw out some of the coolant, Hold the tester vertical and check the numberof balls floating. After making the test disperse the coolant into the expansion tank and ref the cap. 7.2 Alternator and drivebott {@S-FE engines without air conditioning) 5.7 Topping up the automatic transmission fluid through the dipstick tube 3 Ifthe strength of the coolant is tow, drain the coolant and refil with the correct strength 1s described in Section 36. 4 Check the coolant level with reference to “Weekly checks” 7 Auxiliary drivebelt(s) check ‘and renewal 11 On 4A-FE and 7A-FE engines, two or three rivebolts are fited. The main crivebelt drives, the water pump and alternator from the crankshaft pulley. Where air conditioning is fited, the compressor is driven by a separate rivebelt from tho crankshaft pulley. Where ower steering is fted, a secondary crvebett

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