Real Food Fall 2016

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& Byerlys
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COMPLIMENTARY
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FALL 2016
Sweet
Science
Delectable baked treats
courtesy of chemistry
volume 12 number 3
03
FREE
DOABLE DOUGH: Family-friendly meals made easy

GLORIOUS APPLES: Enjoy in dishes savory to sweet
THE ART OF APPETIZERS: Small bites big on flavor
SOME INVESTMENTS ARE
MORE STUNNING
THAN OTHERS.
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LOOK GOOD,
FE E L GR E AT W IT H
B E AU T I F U L S K I N
Recognized by physicians and
nurses as one of the nations leading
dermatologists, Charles E. Crutchfield
III MD has received a significant list of
honors including the Karis Humanitarian
Award from the Mayo Clinic, 100
Most Influential Health Care Leaders
in the State of Minnesota (Minnesota
Medicine), and the First a Physician
Award from the Minnesota Medical
Association, for positively impacting
both organized medicine and improving
the lives of people in our community. He
has a private practice in Eagan and is the
team dermatologist for the Minnesota
Twins, Wild, Vikings and Timberwolves.
Dr. Crutchfield is a physician, teacher,
author, inventor, entrepreneur, and
philanthropist. He has several medical
patents, has written a childrens
book on sun protection, and writes
a weekly newspaper health column.
Dr. Crutchfield regularly gives back to
the Twin Cities community including
sponsoring academic scholarships,
camps for children, sponsoring programs
for children with dyslexia, mentoring
under-represented students from the
University of Minnesota, and establishing
a Dermatology lectureship at the
University of Minnesota. As a professor,
he teaches students at both Carleton
College and the University of Minnesota
Medical School. He lives in Mendota
Heights with his wife Laurie, three
beautiful children and two hairless cats.
AES
THET I C
L OF APPROVA
L
SEA
CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY
CRUTCHFIELD DER MATOLOGY

Experience counts. Quality matters.
Mayo Clinic Medical School Graduate | University of Minnesota Dermatology Trained
Top Doctor Minneapolis St. Paul Magazine | Best Doctors for Women Minnesota Monthly Magazine
1185 Town Centre Drive, Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com
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contents
real food
fall 2016
Features
20 Doable Dough
A step up on family-friendly meals
BY ROBIN ASBELL
28 Glorious Apples
Enjoy more than one-a-day
in dishes savory to sweet
36 Sweet Chemistry
Delectable baked treats courtesy of science
BY LAUREN CHATTMAN
46 The Art of Appetizers

Small bites big on flavor
RECIPES BY HELENE AN, JACQUELINE AN,
BARTON SEAVER AND JULIA JOLIFF
52 Katie Parla
Dishing on secrets of the Roman kitchen
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
Departments
4 Bites
Vegetarian dishes for every occasion
RECIPES BY MARY McCARTNEY
6 Kitchen Skills
Quick and easy refrigerator pickles
BY JASON ROSS
8 Contributors
17 Ingredient
Squash: A wide and varied family
BY LAURA SCHMIDT
18 Healthy Habits
Diabetes-friendly recipes everyone can enjoy
RECIPES BY THE MR. FOOD TEST KITCHEN
56 Pairings
Beaujolais from brunch to dessert
BY MARY SUBIALKA
2 real food fall 2016
25
56
26
Our Cover
Tender, Buttery Shortbread

(page 38). Photograph by
Terry Brennan
PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS

EDITOR, CUSTOM PUBLICATIONS TAMMY GALVIN EDITOR MARY SUBIALKA ASSOCIATE EDITOR LISA MARCHAND ASSISTANT EDITOR AUBREY SCHIELD
SENIOR ART DIRECTOR JAMIE JOHNSON PRODUCTION PROJECT MANAGER CINDY MARKING
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE HANNAH BORMAN EDITORIAL INTERNS LIANNA MATT AND LAURA SCHMIDT
VOLUME 12, NUMBER 3 Real Food magazine is published quarterly by Greenspring Media, LLC, 706 Second Ave. S. Suite 1000, Minneapolis, MN 55402, 612.371.5800,
Fax 612.371.5801. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reprinted or otherwise reproduced without written permission from
the publisher. Real Food is exclusively operated and owned by Greenspring Media, LLC. Printed in the USA. www.realfoodmag.com
C
CM
MY
CY
CMY
The pages between the covers of this magazine (except for any inserted material) are printed on
paper made from wood fiber that was procured from forests that are sustainably managed to remain
healthy, productive and biologically diverse.
bites
Feasts and Fetes for

Friends and Family
Simple vegetarian cooking for every special occasion
meat-free diet does not mean mundane or monotonousquite the contrary, in fact.
Vegetarian cooking offers up plate after plate of meals so delicious youll forget about
the old school, plan-your-meal-around-the-meat mentality. Be it Sunday brunch or a
holiday fete, carnivores and herbivores alike can love a meat-free meal.
In her second cookbook to date, author and photographer Mary McCartney guides you
through a tour of cuisines and special occasions, featuring recipes inspired by her lifelong
vegetarian status. Throughout At My Table, McCartney emphasizes the exciting flexibility of
vegetarian cooking and the memories made around the dinner table with loved ones, just like
those with parents Linda and Paul McCartney.
Some of my happiest memories revolve around food, and Ive tried to re-create those
memories for my own children, she says. When we were growing up as a vegetarian family,
we never felt we were missing out at mealtimes. Lisa Marchand
MARY MCCARTNEY, PICTURED WITH

PARENTS LINDA AND PAUL MCCARTNEY,
WAS RAISED AS A VEGETARIAN
Tabbhouleh
SERVES 4
This refreshing salad combines lots of chopped fresh parsley and vibrant, ripe
tomatoes with a tangy citrus lemon dressing. Traditionally its made with bulgur
wheat, but I like to use cooked quinoa instead, since I think it works well, and
has the added advantage of being a gluten-free superfood.
23 cup uncooked white quinoa (for gluten-free option), rinsed,
or bulgur wheat
34 cup water
3 medium ripe red tomatoes, deseeded and diced
3 scallions, finely chopped
118 cups cucumber (approx. cucumber), diced
123 cups fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint (small handful)
sea salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
For the dressing
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (approx. 1 lemons)
pinch sea salt
1. Place the quinoa (or bulgur wheat) in a medium saucepan, then cover with the water. Bring to a boil, cook for 15 minutes, then
take off the heat and cover with a dish towel to absorb the steam. Allow to stand for 10 minutes. Remove the dish towel and fork
throughthe quinoa should be light with the grains separated. Allow to cool.
2. Meanwhile, put the tomatoes, scallions and cucumber into a large mixing bowl.
3. Mix the dressing ingredients in a cup or small bowl and whisk with a fork for a few seconds until smooth.
4. When ready to serve, add cooled quinoa and the chopped herbs into the large bowl with the tomatoes, scallions and cucumber.
Pour over the dressing, season with salt and pepper, and toss well.
bites
Tostadas Deluxe
MAKES 4 TORTILLAS (1 OR 2 TORTILLAS PER PERSON)
Corn tortillas topped with a chunky bean spread and then sprinkled with cheese, red
onion, jalapeo, tomato, avocado and lime. Tostadas are a staple in my home because
theyre healthy, quick and easy to make, and so satisfying. In a way, they have replaced
toast as a base on which to build a great snack or light meal.
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
4
23
tablespoons light olive oil or vegetable oil

14-ounce can pinto or black beans, drained
medium clove garlic, finely chopped
teaspoon ground cumin
small or medium red onion, finely chopped
ripe tomato, finely chopped
tablespoon chopped jalapeo
avocado, halved, pitted, peeled and cut into small cubes
tablespoon finely chopped cilantro or parsley
pinch sea salt, or to taste
tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice (approx. lime)
teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
ready-made corn or flour tortillas, approx. 5 inches in diameter
cup goat cheese or feta, crumbled
1. Heat the oil in a medium frying pan, add the beans, and partially mash them with
a fork or potato masher. Then add the garlic and ground cumin and fry for 5 minutes.
2. In a medium bowl, mix together the red onion, tomato, jalapeo, avocado, cilantro
and a small pinch of sea salt. Add the lime juice and extra-virgin olive oil, and toss
the ingredients together.
3. Heat the tortillas by wrapping them in foil and popping them into the warm oven
for about 5 minutes.
4. To assemble the tostadas, spread the bean mixture over the base of each heated
tortilla, then spoon the salad mix over the top and finish with a crumbling of cheese.
PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM

AT MY TABLE PUBLISHED IN 2015 BY STERLING EPICURE,
AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC. TEXT AND
PHOTOGRAPHY 2015 BY MARY MCCARTNEY
TOSTADAS DELUXE
fall 2016 real food 5
kitchen skills
The Lure of the

Quick Pickle
Make refrigerator pickles in the time it takes
to boil and cool a pot of brine
BY JASON ROSS
o see a pickle is to crave a pickle. Like chili spice or potato

chips, the more you eat, the more you crave the intense
flavor. It might seem as if pickles are too much work to
make at home, requiring specific expertise or specialized
equipment, but quick pickles, or refrigerator pickles as they are
also called, are just thatquick and easy. You can make quick
pickles in the time it takes to boil and cool a pot of brine, and
there are even pickles that take only minutesjust a sprinkle
of salt, sugar and a dash of vinegar.
PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN;

FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
Classic Dill Pickle Spears

MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS
This is the crowd favorite, the dill spear.

1
2
1
1
English cucumber
tablespoons kosher salt
cup water
cup white distilled vinegar
cup sugar
tablespoon roughly chopped dill
teaspoon whole coriander
teaspoon whole allspice
teaspoon red pepper flake
whole cloves garlic, skins on
1. Cut cucumber into spears about 4 inches long. Place spears

in a medium size mixing bowl.
2. Place remaining ingredients in a small saucepan and bring
to a boil.
3. Pour the boiling brine over the cucumbers. Allow the pickles
to cool in the brine until the liquid is nearly room temperature,
about 30 minutes. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon.
4. The pickles are ready to serve but can be stored in jars or
plastic storage containers in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Bread and Butter Pickles
Swedish 1-2-3 Pickles
This is the classic. When you think of quick picklesrefrigerator picklesthis is the one. Sweet and tangy, they appeal
to kids and adults and are perfect for burgers, hot dogs or
almost any sandwich.
The ratio is simple to remember: 1 part vinegar, 2 parts sugar and

3 parts water. Use it on beets as in this recipe or get creative and
try it with poached shrimp or green beansor if you want to get
really Swedish, try it with herring! Traditionally these are made
with high-acid attika Swedish vinegar. The recipe works great
with distilled white vinegar, but try adding an extra tablespoon
if you like a little extra snap.
2
2
1
English cucumber
medium white onion
teaspoons kosher salt
cups water
cup sugar
cup plus 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar
teaspoon celery seed
teaspoon turmeric
1
3
1
112
1
1. Slice cucumber and onion half into -inch slices. Toss

with salt and let sit for 10 minutes then strain out any liquid
from the bowl. Return cucumber and onion slices to bowl.
2. In a small saucepan, bring remaining ingredients to a boil.
3. Pour the boiling brine over the cucumber and onion slices
in bowl. Allow the cucumbers and onions to cool in the
brine until the liquid is nearly room temperature, roughly
30 minutes. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon.
4. The pickles are ready to eat, but can be stored covered
and refrigerated, for up to 1 week.
Brine Pickled Onions

Here is another pickle worth keeping around for almost any

meal. Try pickled onions with grilled foods, on any sandwich
or poached seafood.
1
2
1
1
medium white onion

cup water
cup sugar
teaspoon whole coriander
bay leaves
NUTRITION
BREAD AND BUTTER PICKLES:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 39 (1
from fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL
0mg; SODIUM 128mg; CARB 10g;
FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 0g
1. In a medium saucepan, add the beets and 2 quarts water,

making sure the water covers the beetsadd water as needed
and salt, and bring to a boil. Lower heat and cook beets about
30 minutes for medium size, until tender. Check for doneness
by inserting a pairing knife in the center of beet. The knife
should pierce the flesh easily when done.
2. While the beets are cooking prepare the brine. In a small
saucepan combine the vinegar, sugar, water and bay leaf. Bring
to a boil. Pour the hot brine into a small mixing bowl and cool
in the refrigerator.
3. When the beets are done, transfer to a bowl and discard the
liquid. Allow beets to cool slightly until they are still warm but
not too hot to the touch.
4. Use a paper towel to peel the beets by rubbing the skins off
in your hands.
5. Slice beets into -inch slices and place in a jar or plastic
storage container. Pour the cooled brine over the beets and
cover. If you prefer more of a relish, try dicing the beets instead.
6. The beets are ready to eat but can be stored and refrigerated
covered for up to 1 week, in jars or plastic storage containers.
The Quickest Pickles
1. Cut onion into -inch slices and place in a medium sizemixing bowl.
2. Place remaining ingredients in a small saucepan and
bring to a boil.
3. Pour the boiling brine over the onions. Allow the onions to
cool in the brine until the liquid is nearly room temperature,
roughly 30 minutes. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon.
4. The onions are ready to serve but can be stored in a jar or
plastic storage container in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
CLASSIC DILL PICKLE SPEARS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 15 (1 from
fat); FAT 0g (sat. 0g); CHOL 0mg;
SODIUM 203mg; CARB 3g; FIBER
1g; PROTEIN 0g
pound fresh beets

cup sugar
cups water
bay leaf
This is super fast and versatile. Try atop salads,

burgers and more. Slice red onion and English
cucumber into thin 18-inch slices. Place in large mixing
bowl and toss to coat with 1 tablespoon kosher salt
and 1 teaspoon sugar. Pour in cup white distilled
vinegar and toss to fully coat. Transfer pickles to a
jar or a plastic storage container. They are ready to
eat within 10 minutes, and will store covered and
refrigerated up to 3 days. (Makes 6 to 8 servings.)
BRINE PICKLED ONIONS: PER

SERVING: CALORIES 14 (0 from
0g; PROTEIN 0g
SWEDISH 1-2-3 PICKLES: PER

2g; PROTEIN 1g
THE QUICKEST PICKLES: PER

0g; PROTEIN 0g
contributors
Robin Asbell
spreads the word about how truly delicious and beautiful whole, real foods can
be through her work as an author, cooking
teacher and private chef. She likes to create delicious dishes that range from meat
and seafood to beans and grains using
global flavors. Her latest book is Great
Bowls of Food: Grain Bowls, Buddha
Bowls, Broth Bowls and More. She is also
the author of The Whole Grain Promise:
More Than 100 Recipes to Jumpstart a
Healthier Diet; Juice It!; Big Vegan:
Over 350 Recipes, No Meat, No Dairy,
All Delicious; The New Vegetarian; and
Gluten-Free Pasta.
Jason Ross
is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu

in Minnesota and has worked as a
consultant to help develop menus at
many Twin Cities restaurants. He grew
up in New York City but now calls
St. Paul, Minn., home, where he lives
with his wife and two young daughters.
Tara Q. Thomas
intended to be a chef when she

trained at the Culinary Institute of
America in New York, but got sidetracked by wine. She has been writing
about it for nearly 20 years now, most
prominently at Wine & Spirits Magazine, where she is Executive Editor.
Author of The Complete Idiots Guide
to Wine Basics and a contributor to the
forthcoming Oxford Companions to
cheese and to spirits, she also sits on
the advisory panel for the International
Culinary Centers Sommelier Training
Program. She lives in Brooklyn, N.Y.,
juggling a laptop and two small childrenand still cooks nearly nightly,
albeit for a smaller crowd.
Lauren Chattman
Lara Miklasevics
began her food career on the other side

of the camera, cooking at the renowned
New French Caf in Minneapolis, Minn.
Today her work as a stylist is in demand
at corporations including Heinz, Target
and General Mills, as well as with
many magazines. She prides herself on
using her experience as a chef to make
food as appealing on the page as it is
on the plate.
is a cookbook author, freelance writer

and former professional pastry chef.Her
recipes have appeared in Food & Wine,
Bon Apptit, Cooks Illustrated and The
New York Times. She is the author of
14 books, including The Baking Answer
Book Cake Keeper Cakes and Cookie
Book,
Swap!. She has also co-authored several books, including Dessert University
with former White House Pastry Chef
Roland Mesnier. With artisan baking expert Daniel Leader, she is the co-author
of the International Association of Culinary Professionals award-winning Local
Breads. With Susan Matheson, she is
co-author of The Gingerbread Architect.
Her collaboration with YouTube star
Maangchi, Real Korean Cooking with
Maangchi, was released spring 2015.
Maangchi
Terry Brennan
is an award-winning photographer
who has worked for General Mills,
Pillsbury, Budweiser, Target and
many national advertising agencies.
My real passion lies in editorial
work, he says, in which a photographers freedom to create a story
or look through the photograph is
much greater.
Lunds & Byerlys

welcome
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Chanhassen: 952-474-1298
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Edina
50th Street: 952-926-6833
France Avenue: 952-831-3601
Golden Valley: 763-544-8846
Maple Grove: 763-416-1611
Minneapolis
Downtown: 612-379-5040
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Minnetonka
Glen Lake: 952-512-7700
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St. Louis Park: 952-929-2100
St. Paul
Downtown: 651-999-1600
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Extraordinary food and

exceptional service
online or in store
ockey legend Wayne Gretzky once

famously said, I skate to where
the puck is going to be, not where
it has been.
For me, those 15 words so succinctly
express the value of forward-thinking
and the importance of Lunds & Byerlys
not only meeting your needs today, but
also being ready to meet your needs in
the future.
We are always looking for ways to be
available to you when and where you need
us, even when youre on the go and seemingly have little to no time to shop for groceries. Its the key reason we launched our
online grocery shopping service nearly 10
years ago. At that time, we were one of just a
few such services in and around the Twin
Cities. Today, competition has increased,
which is not surprising given lifes busyness and our want and need for added
conveniences.
That is certainly the case for my family.
With our kids activities, work commitments and everything else that needs to
get done in a day, finding time to get to
the store can be challenging. For us, the
ability to quickly place an order at night
and have the groceries arrive the next day
has proven to be incredibly convenient
and a significant time saver.
If you havent used our online grocery
shopping service beforeor havent
used it recentlyI would encourage
you to visit shop.LundsandByerlys.com
and give it a try.
We recently launched a new online shopping site designed to make it even more
convenient to shop for the products you
want and need for

you and your family. We offer more
than 25,000 productsand they are
all at the same prices as in our stores.
That includes hundreds of weekly sale
items.
Tres
Ever y order is
Lund
fulfilled by a personal shopper who selects items just as if
you were shopping in the store. By adding
a note to any product you choose, you can
tell the personal shopper if you would
like your bananas more ripe, if you want
your deli meat sliced thin for sandwiches
or any other specific instructions you
might have. You can then choose to use
our drive-thru pickup service at select
stores or have your order delivered right
to your home or business. To learn more,
see the story on page 13.
The next time youre running short on
time but dont want to sacrifice extraordinary food and exceptional service, try
our new online grocery shopping service.
We hope you continue to enjoy Real
Food. And we thank you for choosing to
shop with us.
Sincerely,
Tres Lund
President and CEO
Join our Text Club by

texting DEALS to 55955.
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LUNDSandBYERLYS.com real food 9
Lunds & Byerlys

community support
Growing Local
Organic Agriculture, Together
Lunds & Byerlys and Organic Valley help farmers on the road to organic farming
ur countrys demand for organic

food continues to rise at a dramatic
rate as more and more of us are seeking foods produced by organic family farmers
who work in harmony with nature without
the use of antibiotics, synthetic hormones,
pesticides or genetically modified organisms
(GMOs). As demand rises, so does the need
for organic farms.
Converting a farm from conventional to
organic is no easy task and often presents a
financial hardship to the farmers. They have
to stop conventional production and work
the land according to organic regulations for

three years before they can become a USDAcertified organic farm.
In an effort to support farmers during the
difficult transition period, weve partnered
with Organic Valley, the nations largest
organic farmer cooperative, to establish a
Lunds & Byerlys Organic Farming Transition
Grant. Organic Valley matched our $6,500
donation and we awarded our first $13,000
grant to the Steve Reuter Farm in Stillwater.
Its a third-generation family farm with
Steves grandparents, parents and uncle
operating the 55-acre farm since 1934. Today,

the family milks about 50 cows, the majority
of which are Holsteins.
On a recent visit, we got an up-close look at
the farm and the Reuter familys passion for
farming in a way that respects the cows and
the land. We pasture our cows in open fields
the old-fashioned way, Steve said. Given we
were already 80 percent of the way toward
organic farming, it was a natural next step
for us to go all the way and become a certified
organic farm.
When asked what the $13,000 Lunds &
Byerlys Organic Farming Transition Grant
will mean for his familys farm, Steve said,
This will be a big help, no doubt about it. We
plan to use some of the money to purchase a
rotary hoe to help with growing organic corn
to feed the cows. It will also help us build
more fencing to expand the space for our cows
to be on pasture, and it will help offset some
of the organic certification fees.
The Lunds & Byerlys Organic Farming
Transition Grant will help grow the organic landscape in the Midwest by providing
the necessary support our local farmers
need to be certified organic. We are grateful to partner with Organic Valley in this
effort, and overjoyed to be able to support our
local farmers.
PICTURED ABOVE HANS EISENBEIS, COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER AT ORGANIC VALLEY, BEA JAMES, DIRECTOR OF BAKERY
AND NOURISH AT LUNDS & BYERLYS AND STEVE REUTER PHOTOS KRIS KAISER, LUNDS & BYERLYS
BY BEA JAMES, DIRECTOR OF BAKERY AND NOURISH
Lunds & Byerlys

family meals
Quick and
Easy Family
Dinner
This September, celebrate National Family Meals Month with
this sweet and spicy chicken dish your whole family will love.
Garlic Chili Chicken with

Grilled Pineapple Salsa
MAKES 4 SERVINGS, ADAPTED FROM JUST BARE CHICKEN
For the chicken

2 to 3 (14 ounces) boneless skinless chicken breasts
cup Lunds & Byerlys Honey Ginger
Teriyaki Grilling Sauce
NUTRITION
1. Heat grill to medium-high. Brush

chicken with Honey Ginger Teriyaki
Grilling Sauce; place on grill.
Arrange pineapple slices alongside chicken. Cover and cook
about 15 minutes. Turn once
and brush chicken with sauce
once more. Grill until chicken
is no longer pink in center and
pineapple is browned.
2. Remove chicken and pineapple from
grill. Finely chop pineapple; mix with remaining
salsa ingredients. Serve with chicken.
CHILI CHICKEN W. SALSA: PER SERVING: CALORIES 200; FAT 3g (sat. 1g); TRANS FAT 0g; CHOL 70mg; SODIUM
410mg; CARB 18g; FIBER 2g; SUGARS 13g; PROTEIN 24g
Nutrition content of this recipe is calculated by a registered dietitian nutritionist. Due to variations in ingredients and measurements,
values are approximations. Nutrients provided for this recipe represent values based on the best available information. This information
is not intended to treat or diagnose. Please consult your physician for diet recommendations specific to your personal needs.
RECIPE ADAPTED
FROM JUST BARE CHICKEN
For the salsa

4 (-inch thick) slices fresh pineapple
cup finely chopped red bell pepper
2 green onions, thinly sliced
1 serrano chile, seeded, finely chopped
(add another chile for more heat)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh
cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
teaspoon toasted cumin seeds
Lunds & Byerlys

online shopping
Save time. Shop online.

Our new online shopping platform makes shopping convenient while offering the same great
products and exceptional service you know and love in every Lunds & Byerlys store
BY AUGIE SCHAUER, ONLINE MANAGER
etween work commitments, our childrens activities and

everything else on our to-do lists, it can be difficult to get
to the grocery store each week. But have no fear; we have a
solution that will fill up your fridge in no time.
Our new online shopping platform is designed to make your
shopping experience convenient and hassle-free while offering you
the same great products you know and love. In fact, when using our
online shopping service, you will receive the same extraordinary
food, exceptional service and passionate expertise offered in every
Lunds & Byerlys store.
The online shopping site features personalization across the
entire shopping experience. This means at each step of the shopping
journeyfrom the homepage to product collections and recommendationsthe platform will display the most relevant items
for shoppers based on their individual purchase history and items
already in their basket.
As you begin to fill your online shopping basket, you will notice
you can select from more than 25,000 products, including hundreds
of weekly sale items at the same price youll find in our stores. And,
in an effort to make shopping easier, you can organize and browse
our entire product catalogue using any combination of filters such
as on sale, organic, gluten free, local and more.
Additionally, there are many other ways to shop within the new
platform. If youre in the mood to browse, you can shop by aisle or
department, as well as by curated collection. Customers also have
the ability to sort through products based on popularity, personal
relevance, date of last purchase and pricing.
Before finalizing your order, you can add a note to any item in
your shopping cart. For example, you might indicate you prefer
green bananas or you would like your artisan bread sliced. No
problem! Just leave us a comment under the item in your cart and
well be sure to fulfill your request just as if you were shopping in
the store yourself.
Once you place an order, your work is done. Personal shoppers in
our stores hand-select your order to ensure you receive fresh, high
quality items. Then our delivery drivers bring your groceries directly
to the front door of your Twin Cities area home or business. Or, if
its more convenient, you can opt for drive-thru pickup at select
stores or the self-service lockers at Lunds & Byerlys Kitchen. For
drive-thru pickup orders, there is a $4.95 pick fee. Delivery orders
are $9.95 ($4.95 pick fee and a $5 delivery charge).
We strive to provide a unique shopping experience for every single
customer, and were confident our new online shopping platform
will help us provide that experience for you.
Visit shop.LundsandByerlys.com to try our new online

shopping site today.
Lunds & Byerlys
whats in store
ROBERT ROTHSCHILD
FARM SAUCES
For more than 30 years, Robert Rothschild Farm has been making
products from scratch using time-honored techniques such as
slow cooking in small batches. Their updated collection of sauces,
preserves, condiments and dips is a foolproof way to jazz up your
favorite meal.
Tip: Upgrade your cheese and crackers by topping them with

hatch chile jalapeo jam or try the raspberry honey mustard as
a zesty marinade for chicken.
CIDEROAD ORGANIC
SWITCHEL
Take your taste buds on a joyride with this healthy, refreshing
concoction of simple, whole-food ingredients. CideRoads
proprietary combination contains apple cider vinegar, maple
syrup and ginger, which offers a perfect balance of sweet and
tart flavors with a splash of ginger. Flavors include original,
blueberry and cherry.
Did you know? Originally a staple of colonial farmers diets,

switchel is now known to be a healthy caffeine alternative,
similar to kombucha, but without the carbonation.
OZERY SNACKING ROUNDS

AND MORNING ROUNDS
Everything made at Ozery Bakery is inspired by the philosophy that you can
eat well and feel healthy. Each product is made without artificial flavors
and colors, preservatives and GMOs. These tasty, nourishing fruit and grain
snacks are a whole new way to enjoy bread.
Tip: Enjoy them as a snack, toasted and topped with butter for breakfast, or chop
the cranberry orange snacking rounds to make a hearty cranberry stuffing perfect
for cozy fall nights.
Lunds & Byerlys

whats in store
JUST COOK FOODS SPICES

A husband and wife team joined forces with a professional chef to create a
line of unique spice blends inspired by the bold flavors of their worldly travels.
Their goal is to take the fuss out of cooking while delivering flavors that make
meals extraordinary.
Did you know? Just Cook Foods began as a passion project for the couple
after returning from a four-month, four-continent trip where they experienced
cuisines from around the world.
OUR BAKERY
MUFFINS
Breakfast just got betterand
easierthanks to our Lunds &
Byerlys bakery muffins. These fresh
muffins come in multiple sizes
and delicious, fun varieties. Our
new recipes feature more fresh
ingredients, including fruits, nuts,
seeds and Guittard chocolate chips.
TRUE DOUGH PIZZA CO.

PIZZA DOUGH
Crafted right here in Minnesota, True Dough Pizza Co. makes USDA-certified
organic frozen pizza dough from wholesome, local ingredients. The additiveand preservative-free dough is allowed to rise naturally, which results in
incredible flavor and texture.
Look for flavors such as wild

blueberry, almond poppy crunch,
beautiful morning, banana chocolate
chip and strawberry banana
smoothie in your favorite Lunds &
Byerlys bakery. And dont miss our
seasonal fall muffins, which include
apple orchard, pumpkin patch and
nutty professor pistachio.
Did you know? Our research and

development pastry chef, Sharon
Carlson, created the new recipes for
these delicious muffins, which are
available only at Lunds & Byerlys.
Did you know? True Dough started when a pair of sisters couldnt find
affordable, high-quality pizza dough in stores. After experimenting, they came
up with an economical, health-conscious option everyone loves.
So quiet, it screams
German engineering
Operating at a virtually silent 38 dBA, the Bosch Benchmark is the

quietest dishwasher* in North America; so quiet that it features
InfoLight a small red light that projects onto the floor to indicate
the dishwasher is in use. Our Appliance Specialists will find the
right choices for your kitchen at a price no one can beat.
Enter to win this dishwasher
text DISH to 55955 or visit

lundsandbyerlys.com/dishwasher
available at
MAPLE GROVE
MINNEAPOLIS
EDINA
WOODBURY
APPLE VALLEY
ROCHESTER
COON RAPIDS
ST. PAUL
SHAKOPEE
*Based on sound ratings in the Normal cycle. Model SHX9PT75UC is valued at $1999. Visit LundsandByerlys.com/dishwasher for contest rules and alternate forms of entry.
ingredient
All in the Family

Every member of the squash family is different,
but we love them all
ith a wide and varied family tree, every individual squash variety
contains its own unique flavors and personality. Some are sweet
and nutty while some are on the dry side, but like family, we love
them all for different reasons.
Squash derives meaning from a Massachusett Native American word
for eaten raw, and despite the origin of its name, squash can be eaten
either raw or cooked. With high water content, squash make a low-calorie,
filling food choice. In addition, squash are a great source of vitamins A and C,
antioxidants and more. These nutritious superfoods can help lower blood
pressure and are as versatile as foods come.
With a diverse range of squash varieties available in the fall and winter
months, it is easy to find one that fits your recipes and taste preferences.
In fact, squash is such a broad category that there are varying flavors, textures
and sweetness to each type. Wintertime offers some of the best squash options
that tend to be larger and stay fresh longer. However, most winter squash have
thick skin that needs to be peeled before eating or cooking.
What can you make with winter squash? Just about anything. The simplest recipe
would be to roast the squash and eat with brown sugar or garlic. Otherwise, squash
can be made into anything from soup or frittata to risotto. The only limit to squash is
your imagination and innovation. So lets get the peeler out and figure out which
squash you need for your next meal. Laura Schmidt
CUT BUTTERNUT IRINAGRIGORII - FOTOLIA.COM
ACORN Sometimes mistaken

for a gourd, the acorn squash
is typically dark green in color,
and its shape resembles an enlarged
acorn or a spinning top. The acorn squash
will last for months when stored in a wellventilated space between 50 and 55F.
The bright yellow flesh has a slightly
sweet and nutty flavor, making it great
for baking or as a soup base.
BUTTERNUT One of the most
popular squash, butternut has a
hearty sweetness and is very easy
to cook. The pear-shaped body
and light skin hide a bright orange
flesh that has a distinct nutty
flavor similar to a pumpkin. The best part
of butternut is how versatile it is: From
desserts and salads to pizza toppings,
butternut squash can make a great fall
addition to your menu.
BLUE HUBBARD The hubbard squash

is probably the largest squash you will
seethat is, if you can find it whole.
Usually it is sold in quarters or halves
because the squash can weigh up to
20 pounds. Its golden flesh is great
for roasting with spices
for a savory dish or
can be used with
veggies for a
delectable soup.
JACK BE LITTLE Sometimes
mistaken for mere decoration, this little squash is so
much more. Pop it in the
microwave whole, cut off the top and
remove the seeds, and you have a single
serving size. Season it with fresh herbs or
try it stuffed with rice or apples.
KABOCHA A squat-looking fellow, the

Kabocha squash is an Asian variety,
sometimes called the Japanese Pumpkin.
Widely available in the U.S., the Kabocha
has a nutty and incredibly
sweet flavor, making it a
toothsome treat when
roasted or baked into a pie.
SPAGHETTI Unlike most squash, the
spaghetti squash has no distinct sweetness. Oval in shape with a yellow exterior,
spaghetti squash is great because it can
be used as a substitute for pasta due to
its stringy, spaghetti-like strands.
Place the strands, sprinkled
with water and spices such as
parsley and sage or cumin
and cilantro, on a baking
sheet. Cook at 375F about
45 minutes. Top with pesto or
marinara sauce to serve.
Yield: 1 pound winter squash = 1+ cup cooked and mashed

1 pound raw spaghetti squash = 4 cups cooked strings, loosely packed
healthy
habits
Guilt-Free
and Gratifying
Diabetes-friendly recipes for everyone at every meal
erfecting a well-balanced diet can be challenging enough, but for those with diabetes,
thoughtfully crafting a meal plan involves an added dimension. And if you cook breakfast,
lunch or dinner for family and friends, whatever graces the table should satisfy everyones
appetiteand your dietary needs. Paying close attention to carbohydrate, sodium, fat and sugar
levels in meals pays dividends for glucose levels; keeping these components low does not have
to dilute the tastiness of any dish. For those without diabetes, of course, whipping up a nutritious,
delicious meal is the end goal as well. In Mr. Food Test Kitchen: Guilt-Free Weeknight Favorites,
you will find more than 150 diabetes-friendly recipes that can help maintain desired glucose
levels for every meal of the dayyes, even dessert. Helpful tips about portion size, sugar and
skillfully reading nutrition labels will also help you make the best decisions possible in the
grocery aisle and the kitchen. Lisa Marchand
Simple Butternut
Squash Cake
SERVES 15
1 (16-ounce) box angel food cake mix

34 cup frozen mashed butternut
squash, thawed
2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
1 cup frozen reduced-fat whipped
topping, thawed
cinnamon for sprinkling
1. Preheat oven to 350F.
2. In a large bowl, prepare angel food cake
according to package directions. Gently fold in
squash and pumpkin pie spice. Spread batter
into a 9 by 13-inch baking dish.
3. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, or until toothpick
inserted in center comes out clean. Remove
from oven and let cool.
4. When completely cool, cut into 15 pieces.
Dollop each piece with 1 tablespoon whipped
topping, sprinkle with cinnamon, and serve.
Did You Know? Butternut squash not only adds
a rich nutty flavor to this cake, its also the secret
to keeping the cake super moist.
Choices/Exchanges: 2 carbohydrate
PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED

WITH PERMISSION FROM MR. FOOD
TEST KITCHEN: GUILT-FREE WEEKNIGHT
FAVORITES FROM THE AMERICAN
DIABETES ASSOCIATION. COPYRIGHT
2015 AMERICAN DIABETES
ASSOCIATION.
Turkey & 3-Bean Chili

SERVES 8
1 tablespoon canola oil

1 pound Italian turkey sausage,
casing removed
112 cups chopped onion
1 (15.5-ounce) can no-salt-added
black beans, drained
kidney beans, undrained
pinto beans, undrained
1 cup reduced-sodium beef broth
1 cup frozen corn
34 cup picante sauce
1 green bell pepper, cut into
34-inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, cut into 34-inch pieces
1 to 2 drops hot sauce
1. In a large saucepan or Dutch oven, over
medium-high heat, heat oil. Break up the
sausage and saut with onion until sausage
is browned and onion is tender; drain. Add
the remaining ingredients and bring to a
boil.
2. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Serve immediately.
Good for You! We love our beef and pork,
but did you know that turkey sausage traditionally has less than half of the fat and
calories of classic sausage? So its a natural
choice for dishes like this.
NUTRITION
Choices/Exchanges: 2 starch, 2 lean protein, 12 fat
SQUASH CAKE: PER SERVING: CALORIES 130; FAT

1g (sat. 0g); SODIUM 230mg; CARB 28g; FIBER 0g;
PROTEIN 3g
3-BEAN CHILI: PER SERVING: CALORIES 280; FAT
7g (sat. 1.5g); SODIUM 530mg; CARB 33g; FIBER
9g; PROTEIN 20g
BNH M BUNS (RECIPE PAGE 25)

AND SALAD PIZZA WITH LEMON
AND LOX (RECIPE PAGE 22)
Doable Dough
Fresh family-friendly meals are realistic options
for busy nights when frozen dough comes to the rescue
BY ROBIN ASBELL
ow often do you make pizza dough from scratch? What about pastries? Probably not as
often as you eat pizza or enjoy a baked treat. Sure, we all wish we had time to lovingly
make, shape and chill a pastry dough or make pizza dough from scratch, but in practice, you are
more likely to bake when puff pastry and frozen dough are on hand in your freezer.
The fastest pizza dough at your fingertips is in the form of frozen roll dough. It comes in two
sizes: dinner roll (114 ounces each) or Texas roll (2 ounces each), which you can press together
to make any size pizza or calzone. This makes it easy to count out as much dough as you need,
and the small pieces thaw in the refrigerator within eight hours or in less than an hour at room
temperature. You can take them out when you get home from work, warm up the oven, prepare
your toppings and fillings while they thaw, and pop a homemade pizza in the oven 45 minutes later.
Frozen puff pastry is equally convenient. Thaw the package in the refrigerator for several hours
or just set it on the counter for 40 minutes. If you unwrap it, separate the two sheets and place
each under plastic wrap on the counter; they will be pliable in 30 minutes.
From there, the sky is the limit. Pizza, calzones, breadsticks, and both savory and sweet
pastries are suddenly realistic options for busy nights. So skip the frozen pizzas and pick up
frozen dough for a fresh and family-friendly meal.
PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Salad Pizza with

Lemon and Lox
Deep Dish Sausage and Mushroom Pie
MAKES 2 SERVINGS
This is a stuffed-crust deep-dish pie, the kind New Yorkers may refuse to
call pizza. With a dense mushroom and sausage filling and a top crust
crowned with pizza sauce and cheese, this is almost a double decker pizza.
Your frozen dough will make quick work of it, and the buns will thaw in
the time it takes to make the filling and open a bottle of red wine.
The salad pizza is a hybrid, as if you combined

your first course salad and pizza into one dish.
Its a lively contrast of textures and flavorsa
chewy, warm flatbread is topped with fresh lettuces, bathed in zippy lemon vinaigrette, and
studded with smoky lox. Its a little messy to eat,
but so worth it.
6 (2-ounce) whole-wheat roll dough balls
or 10 (114 ounce) traditional rolls
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
plus 2 teaspoons for pan and topping
14 small yellow onion, slivered
12 teaspoon lemon zest
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
12 teaspoon coarse salt, divided
12 teaspoon cracked black pepper, divided
2 ounces (4 cups) baby romaine
1 large tomato
4 tablespoons crme frache, lightly salted
2 ounces lox or smoked salmon
fresh dill, torn
1. Remove dough balls from freezer and thaw
about 1 hour at room temperature or in the refrigerator for about 8 hours before baking.
2. Preheat the oven to 400F.
3. Spread 1 teaspoon olive oil on a pizza pan or
large sheet pan. (You can also use a pizza stone
and peel.)
4. On a lightly oiled counter, press the dough
balls together to form a disk, and flatten with
your fingertips. Let rest for 5 minutes if the dough
is stiff and resists when you press it. Shape the
dough to make a 12-inch round. Transfer to
the pizza pan or sheet pan (or spread cornmeal on your pizza peel and place the dough
there.) Top with onion slivers and drizzle with
1 teaspoon olive oil.
5. Bake the pizza crust for 13-15 minutes, just
until golden and puffed. Let cool on a rack for
5 minutes.
6. In a large bowl, combine the lemon zest, juice,
14 teaspoon of the salt, 14 teaspoon of the pepper, and remaining tablespoon of olive oil. Add
the baby romaine and tomato and toss to coat.
7. Stir the remaining salt and pepper into the
crme frache, and spread on the warm crust.
Top with lox and salad, sprinkle with fresh dill,
cut in quarters, and serve immediately.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
1
112
1
2
8
8
12
12
12
6
2
12
2
pound white frozen dough, or 12 dinner roll portions, divided

tablespoons olive oil, divided
large yellow onion, diced
cloves garlic
ounces mushrooms, sliced
ounces Italian sausage, crumbled
teaspoon salt
teaspoon pepper
cup fresh basil, chopped
ounces (2 cups) Asiago cheese, shredded, divided
ounces (34 cup) shredded Parmesan cheese, divided
cup pizza sauce, prepared
tablespoons parsley, minced
1. Place the frozen dough balls in a lightly oiled tub large enough so they
are not touching. Cover and thaw at room temperature for 1 hour. Prepare
a 10-inch cast iron pan or a 9-inch deep cake pan by rubbing it with
12 tablespoon of the olive oil, and set aside.
2. Prepare filling. In a large saut pan heat the remaining 1 tablespoon
oil over medium-high heat. Add the onions and stir. Saut onions until
golden, reducing the heat to low as they soften. Add the garlic and mushrooms and raise the heat to medium high, and stir the mushrooms until
they are deeply browned and shrunken, about 8 minutes. Push the mushrooms to one side of the pan and add the sausage to the open area and
cook until browned and cooked through. Stir in the salt and pepper and
transfer to a large bowl to cool. When cooled, stir in the fresh basil and
half of the Asiago and Parmesan cheeses.
4. For the top crust: Place 4 dough balls close together on a clean countertop, and use your fingers to press them into a disc of dough. Press
them out to a 10-inch circle, letting the dough rest for a few minutes if it
becomes difficult to stretch.
5. For the bottom crust: Place the remaining dough balls in the prepared
pan and press them to flatten, pinching the edges together (dont let
the oil come between them or they will not stick together). Press out to
cover the bottom of the pan and make a 1-inch high crust at the edges.
6. Transfer the mushroom and sausage mixture to the crust and pack it
flat, smoothing the top. Place the 10-inch round of dough on top of the
pie, and pinch the edges of the top and bottom crusts together.
7. Bake on the bottom oven rack for 15 minutes. Remove from oven and
spread sauce atop crust and top with remaining cheese and parsley.
Return to the oven for 20 minutes on the top rack. Let stand 5 minutes
before slicing.
DEEP DISH SAUSAGE

AND MUSHROOM PIE
SHRIMP, RED PEPPER

AND FETA MINI TARTS
Shrimp, Red Pepper

and Feta Mini Tarts
Bnh M Buns
MAKES 6 TARTS
Bnh m is the favorite sandwich of Vietnama fusion of the bread from

French influence with the fresh sweet and sour pickles and traditional
Vietnamese nuances. This is an even simpler version in which a folded bun
lightly cradles the bnh m filling, and cool, crispy shredded daikon pickles
and cucumbers are added after baking.
These pretty mini tarts are easy to make thanks

to frozen puff pastry, and the squares of dough
look like flower petals when baked. Substitute
chicken for shrimp if desired.
12 large shrimp, peeled and deveined
(or 4 ounces raw chicken breast)
2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
2 large scallions, chopped
2 medium roasted red bell peppers
from a jar, drained and patted
dry, chopped
1 cup parsley leaves, chopped
14
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
1 large egg
12 teaspoon thyme
12 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
23
2
3 sheet puff pastry
2. Lightly oil 6 muffin tin cups and reserve.
3. If the shrimp were thawed from frozen or
damp, wrap them in a double layer of paper
towel and dry well. Chop the shrimp (or chicken) into -inch pieces.
4. In a large saut pan over medium-high heat,
heat the olive oil, add the scallions and stir for
1 minute. Add the chopped shrimp or chicken
and saut until cooked through, about 3 minutes for shrimp. When the shrimp is pink (or
the chicken cooked through), add the roasted
peppers and parsley and stir, just until the pan
is dry. Transfer the shrimp (or chicken) mixture
to a medium bowl and let cool.
5. When cooled, stir in the feta, egg, thyme
and black pepper.
6. Place the puff pastry on a lightly floured
counter and roll the rectangle out slightly to
make an 8-by-12-inch rectangle. Cut the rectangle in 6 4-by-4-inch squares. Place each
square on an oiled muffin cup and gently press
the center to meet the bottom of the tin, leaving the four corners draped over the top of the
pan. Scoop a heaping 14 cup filling per serving
into the cups.
7. Bake 25 minutes, until the pastry is golden
brown and the filling is set and firm. Cool in
the pan for at least 5 minutes before using
a paring knife inserted between the tart and
the pan to slip each tart out onto the rack or a
plate. Serve warm.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS (2 BUNS PER SERVING)
8
2
14
14
334
12
2
1
2
8
1
2
1
4
large frozen buns (Texas style)

tablespoons sugar
cup rice vinegar
teaspoon salt
cup shredded daikon radish
cup shredded carrots
teaspoons canola oil
cup chopped shallot
cloves garlic, chopped
ounces chicken, chopped
teaspoon five-spice powder
tablespoons soy sauce
tablespoon sugar
tablespoons mayonnaise
Sriracha sauce, to taste
1 cucumber, cut into 16 18-inch thick slices
1. Remove buns from freezer and place in an oiled cake pan and cover
with plastic wrap. Thaw 2 hours at room temperature before serving time.
2. Lightly oil a sheet pan.
4. In a medium bowl, mix sugar, rice vinegar and salt, and stir in the daikon
and carrots. Let stand until ready to serve.
5. In a wok or large saut pan over medium-high heat, heat the oil for a
few seconds. Add the shallots and stir 2 to 3 minutes to soften. Add the
garlic and stir 1 minute. Add the chopped chicken and five-spice powder
and stir, cooking for 3 to 4 minutes to brown the chicken pieces. Drizzle
in the soy sauce, add the sugar, and stir. Cook, stirring, until the pan is
nearly dry. Remove from heat and transfer to a large bowl to let cool.
6. Place each bun on the countertop and spread and flatten it with your
fingers to make a 6-by-4-inch oval. If the dough becomes hard to stretch,
let that piece rest for a few minutes while you stretch another one. On
each dough oval, cover the half closest to you with 14 cup filling. Pull the
other half of the dough over the filling to almost cover the filling. Do not
join the top with the bottom; the bun should be open. To keep the bun
folded over, pin it closed with a toothpick inserted gently through the top,
holding the bun slightly ajar. Carefully place on the prepared sheet pan.
7. Let the filled buns rise for 15 minutes at room temperature, then bake
for 15-17 minutes, until the tops are golden brown.
8. Remove from oven and cool on a rack for 10 minutes, until cool enough
to handle. Carefully open the tops of the buns and smear each with
tablespoon mayonnaise and a drizzle of Sriracha sauce.
9. Drain the daikon mixture, and stuff 1 heaping tablespoon into each bun.
Slide in two cucumber slices and serve immediately.
Tips and Tricks:

FROZEN ROLL DOUGH
Keep bags of frozen roll
dough in the freezer and
thaw only what you need,
then reseal the bag for
another day.
As long as you are making
pizza, make a few Parmesan
breadsticks, garlic rolls or
buns for breakfast.
Thaw dough in a lightly
oiled container, covered, so
the top of the dough balls
will not dry out.
If you are shaping the
dough for pizza, you can
start pressing it into a disk
as soon as the dough is soft,
then let it rise for a few
minutes after it is shaped.
When working with roll
dough, press it out until the
dough starts to resist, then
let it rest for a few minutes.
The dough will relax and
be easy to stretch again.
FROZEN PUFF PASTRY

Puff pastry should be cold
when you work with it. If it
comes to room temperature,
put it back in the refrigerator
for 30 minutes.
When rolling out puff pastry dough, dont flatten the
edges too thinly or they will
not give an impressive puff.
NUTRITION
When sealing the edges on

filled pastries, gently press
but dont flatten the dough,
or it will not puff as much.
SALAD PIZZA W. LEMON & LOX:

Pear and Crystallized Ginger Turnovers

MAKES 12 SERVINGS
Pears have a fruity flavor and perfume that is enhanced by the slightly peppery taste
of crystallized ginger. These are fantastic with a cup of tea in the morningif you
have any left after serving them for dessert the night before.
2
2
14
2
1
12
2
1
2
23
2
3
large Bosc pears

teaspoons canola oil
cup turbinado sugar, divided
teaspoons cornstarch or arrowroot
cup (212 ounces) finely chopped crystallized ginger
teaspoons lemon zest
large egg yolk
teaspoons water
package puff pastry, thawed

2. Line 1 large sheet pan with parchment. Set aside a second sheet pan with a rim
for the pears.
3. Slice the pears in half lengthwise, then pare out the core and seeds. Slice each
half in four long slices, then cut across the slices into 34-inch chunks.
4. Place the pear chunks on a sheet pan. Drizzle with canola oil and sprinkle with
2 tablespoons turbinado sugar. Toss to coat and spread the pears on the pan. Roast
for 20 minutes; the pears will be tender and slightly caramelized. Remove from oven
and let cool. Sprinkle with cornstarch or arrowroot, and toss to mix well. Add the
ginger and lemon zest and mix well. Reserve.
5. In a cup, whisk the egg yolk with water and place a pastry brush in the mixture.
6. Lightly sprinkle the counter with flour. Unfold a sheet of puff pastry and place
on floured surface. Roll the pastry out to a 9-by-9-inch square. Use a pizza wheel
or chefs knife to cut into 9 3-by-3-inch squares. Brush two edges of each pastry
square lightly with egg mixture.
7. Place 18 cup filling in each square. Fold the pastry over the filling and press the
edges together to seal. Mark with a fork, if desired. Transfer the turnovers to the
parchment-lined pan.
8. Use 13 of the second piece of pastry to make 3 more turnovers. (Tightly wrap and
either refrigerate or freeze the remaining dough.) Repeat filling steps.
9. Brush the filled turnovers with the remaining egg yolk mixture and sprinkle with
the remaining turbinado sugar.
10. Bake 20 minutes, until the turnovers are golden brown and puffed. Transfer to a
rack to cool slightly, and serve warm. Top with whipped cream, if desired.
Cooks Note: This recipe uses 113 sheets of puff pastry, which means you have 23
of a sheet left over. The Shrimp, Red Pepper and Feta Mini Tarts (page 25) will use
that up perfectly, or you can simply sprinkle the remaining puff pastry with shredded
Parmesan cheese, cut it in -inch wide strips, and twist them gently before placing on a baking sheet. Bake 15 minutes at 375F for crunchy, flaky cheese sticks.
DEEP DISH PIE:

SHRIMP & FETA TARTS:

BNH M BUNS:
46mg; SODIUM 1149mg; CARB
62g; FIBER 5g; PROTEIN 18g
PEAR & GINGER TURNOVERS:

PEAR AND CRYSTALLIZED

GINGER TURNOVERS
Glorious
Apples
Whether sweet and tender or crisp and tart,
everyones favorite apple varieties mix up
great meals from breakfast to dessert
he fruit that is at the core of sayings about health and love to serving as inspiration for the
theory of gravity, is also inspiring in the kitchen. More than a deliciously healthy snack, apples
are equally at home in savory dishes alongside garlic and onions as they are with sweet sugar and
cinnamon. Plus, on the practical side, this versatile fruit really may help keep the doctor away. It is a
good source of fiber and vitamins A and C as well as antioxidants. Research suggests antioxidants in
apples and apple products play a role in reducing risks of diseases such as cancer and Alzheimers.
Apples are also linked to decreasing the risk of heart disease and type two diabetes, improving gut
health and symptoms of asthma. They also have staying power: If you refrigerate apples as soon as
possible when you bring them home, it will slow ripening and maintain flavor so they can keep from four
to six weeks. Then you will be sure to have them on hand for a great variety of recipes. Mary Subialka
RECIPES AND PHOTOS COURTESY OF THE U.S. APPLE ASSOCIATION
Apple Pancakes with

Maple-Apple Sauce
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Pancakes
112 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
13
3 teaspoons baking powder
12 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons granulated sugar
14 teaspoon nutmeg
1 egg
3 tablespoons butter, melted
14 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup milk
1 cup apples, grated
oil for griddle or pan, as needed
Smoky Apple & Butternut Squash Soup

MAKES ABOUT 7 CUPS
1
1
3
1
2
1
1
1
12
12
tablespoon olive oil

tablespoon butter
large onions, finely chopped (about 412 cups)
teaspoon chipotle chili powder
pounds butternut squash, peeled and cut into chunks (about 6 cups)
pound sweet apples, peeled and cut into chunks (about 312 cups)
cup apple juice (more if necessary)
cup chicken broth
teaspoon salt
teaspoon ground black pepper
toasted pecans, for garnish, if desired
sour cream, for garnish, if desired
apple slices, cut thin, for garnish, if desired
1. In a large saucepan, heat oil and butter over medium heat; add onions and chili
powder; cook and stir until onions are tender, about 10 minutes.
2. Add squash, apples, apple juice, chicken broth, salt and pepper; bring to boil.
3. Cover and cook on low heat until apples and squash are very soft, about
30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.
4. Puree with an immersion blender or a food processor; return to saucepan.
Add additional apple juice or broth, if needed.
5. Garnish with toasted pecans, sour cream swirls and thin apple slices, if desired.
1. For the Pancakes: In a large mixing

bowl, combine flour, baking soda, baking powder, salt, sugar and nutmeg.
2. In a small bowl, mix egg, butter,
vanilla and milk.
3. Pour the wet mixture into the dry
mixture, using a wooden spoon or fork
to blend. Stir until just blended, being
careful not to overmix. Fold in grated
apple.
4. Heat a lightly oiled griddle or frying pan over medium-high heat. When
batter is full of holes, turn to brown on
other side. Turn pancakes only once
while cooking.
5. For the Maple-Apple Sauce: Melt butter in a nonstick skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add apples and dash of salt
and saut until just brown, about 2 to
3 minutes.
6. Add maple and corn syrup to apples
and stir gently. Cook another 2 to 3
minutes or until mixture thickens. Serve
over pancakes.
PREVIOUS SPREAD JULES KITANO - FOTOLIA.COM
Maple-Apple Sauce
2 teaspoons butter
2 large apples, peeled, cored
and diced
dash of salt
14 cup maple syrup
1 cup dark corn syrup
18
APPLE PANCAKES WITH

MAPLE-APPLE SAUCE
Pork Fajitas with

Apple-Cilantro Salsa
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
Apple Salsa (makes 212 cups)

3 unpeeled apples, cored and diced
12 cup cherry tomatoes, quartered
12 ripe avocado, peeled and diced
2 tablespoons sliced green onion, including top
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro leaves
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon minced jalapeo pepper
12 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon black pepper
18
14 teaspoon salt
Fajita Marinade
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
4 tablespoons water
4 tablespoons fresh lime juice
6 large cloves garlic, finely minced
3 teaspoons fresh cilantro leaves, minced
14 teaspoon red pepper flakes
14 teaspoon black pepper
14 teaspoon salt
Pork Wrap
1 pound pork tenderloin or lean pork roast
Fajita marinade (above)
8 (8-inch) flour tortillas
1. For the Apple Salsa: In a medium bowl, combine all ingredients
and mix well. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours to meld flavors.
2. For the Fajita Marinade: In a small bowl, combine all ingredients
and mix well.
3. Place pork in large sealable plastic bag and pour in marinade.
Cover and refrigerate 112 hours or more, turning occasionally.
4. Preheat grill. Drain marinated pork, saving excess marinade.
Place pork on grill and brush with leftover marinade (discard
any remaining marinade). Grill over hot coals (or medium heat
for gas grill), turning frequently, for 8 to 10 minutes, until internal
temperature reaches 155-160F. Remove from heat and place on
a clean plate. Allow to rest for 5 minutes before slicing.
5. Wrap tortillas tightly in foil and heat on upper grill rack for 10
minutes.
6. Cut pork diagonally across grain into thin slices. Arrange oneeighth of pork slices and 2 or 3 tablespoons salsa in center of
tortilla. Fold bottom half of tortilla over filling and overlap sides
on top. Arrange on serving plate.
PORK FAJITAS WITH

APPLE-CILANTRO SALSA
EASY APPLESAUCE
Think homemade applesauce is only the work of
skilled canners and chefs? Think again. If you can cut
up apples and put them in the slow cooker, you can
master the art of making it. Apples are a very special
fruit because they contain pectin, which is a natural
thickener. Let the slow cooker gently simmer the apples
until they are tender and falling apart, and then mash or
puree to the desired consistency. For added fun, create
an applesauce toppings bar and customize with your
favorite toppings. The possibilities are endless.
Serve applesauce alongside little bowls of toppings
such as chia, flax seeds, hemp seeds, toasted
walnuts, sesame seeds, raisins, dried cranberries,
dried cherries, fresh berries, cinnamon, pie spice, honey
or maple syrup.
Try 12 cup serving of applesauce with a sprinkling
of these combinations:
Chia + cinnamon
Blueberries + honey
Flax seeds + maple syrup
Slow Cooker Vanilla Applesauce

MAKES 334 CUPS
3 pounds apples (about 8 medium apples),

peeled and cut in chunks
12 cup sugar, optional
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 pinch salt
1. Place the peeled apple chunks in the slow cooker and
sprinkle with sugar, lemon, vanilla and salt, then stir to mix.
Cover the cooker and cook on low for 4 hours.
2. Uncover the cooker and use a potato masher to coarsely
mash the apples, or if you want a really smooth sauce, you
can puree in a food processor or blender. (Be careful when
handling the hot apples and juice; cover the lid of the processor or blender with a folded towel and hold it closed as
you turn on the machine.)
3. Transfer the applesauce to sterilized jars and let cool, then
cover and refrigerate for up to two weeks.
Apple-Hazelnut
Cheesecake Tart
MAKES 10 SERVINGS
Crust
23 cup whole hazelnuts, unpeeled
12 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
12 cup granulated sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
14 teaspoon kosher salt
Filling
1 package (8 ounces) reduced-fat
cream cheese, softened
12 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 large egg
12 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
18 teaspoon kosher salt
1 large tender-sweet apple, such as
Fuji or Gala, peeled, cored and
cut into 14-inch-thick slices
NUTRITION
1. In the bowl of a food processor, pulse

the hazelnuts until they have the texture
of coarse sand. Add the butter, sugar, flour
and salt, and pulse again until the mixture
comes together and forms a dough.
2. Gather the dough into a ball, then press
into the bottom and sides of a 10- or 11-inch
tart pan with removable bottom. Transfer to
the freezer and chill for at least 15 minutes.
3. Set oven rack to the lower position and
preheat oven to 350F.
4. Rinse out the bowl of the food processor,
set it back on the base, and add the cream
cheese, sugar, cream, egg, vanilla and salt.
Process until evenly mixed, about 1 minute.
5. When the crust is chilled, set the tart pan
on a baking sheet and pour the cheese mixture into the shell. Arrange the apple slices
around the tart, pressing them lightly into
the filling. Transfer to the oven and bake
until the filling is set and the crust is lightly
browned, about 35 minutes. Transfer to a
wire rack to cool completely. Serve with
Salted Caramel Sauce (recipe right).
APPLE AND SQUASH SOUP: PER

SERVING: CALORIES 130; FAT 4g
(sat. 2g); CHOL 5mg; SODIUM
290mg; CARB 23g; FIBER 3g;
PROTEIN 2g
Salted Caramel Sauce

MAKES 2 CUPS
34
1
1
12
cup water
cup granulated sugar
cup heavy cream
teaspoon kosher salt
1. Pour water into a 3- to 4-quart saucepan and set over high heat. Add sugar in
a mound in the center of the pot.
2. Cover the pot and cook until sugar dissolves and the mixture begins to bubble.
Reduce heat to medium-low and continue simmering until the mixture turns pale
amber, 12 to 15 minutes. Do not swirl or stir during this time.
3. Remove lid and watch the caramel closely. When it turns a darker amber color,
remove it from the heat and carefully add heavy creamthere will be a burst of
steam, so be careful.
4. Add kosher salt and stir. Serve warm.
APPLE PANCAKES W. SAUCE:

PORK FAJITAS W. SALSA:

VANILLA APPLESAUCE (NO SUGAR):

CHEESECAKE TART W. SAUCE:

PHOTOGRAPHY TERRY BRENNAN

FOOD STYLING LARA MIKLASEVICS
Sweet
Chemistry
Elements of science combine to create your perfect treat
BY LAUREN CHATTMAN
eople say that cooking is an art, while baking is a science. But how much do you actually
know about the chemical and physical reactions involved in producing a chewy chocolate
chip cookie or a fudgy brownie? You dont have to work in a lab to become a better baker,
but understanding a few scientific fundamentals about ingredients and the way they interact
will take some of the mystery out of baking, giving you more control over the outcome of your
baked goods to produce those you like best.
When your cookie or other dough is placed in the oven, the reactions described in the
Element sidebars (see as you read on) occur all at once. Air cells created during creaming
expand, making balls of dough rise and spread. Sugar caramelizes, providing a crisp and
delicious exterior. Protein strands in eggs and flour stretch and then solidify, allowing the
previously soft mixture to expand and hold its new shape when cooled. Courtesy of science,
you now have delectable treats.
CLASSIC PEANUT BUTTER

COOKIES (RECIPE PAGE 40)
Tender, Buttery Shortbread

MAKES 16 WEDGES
Making good shortbread is all in the chemistry. Getting your butter,

flour and sugar to react in just the right ways to produce a light,
tender, buttery cookie rather than a dense, crumbly, greasy one
requires some special handling. Temperature is crucial. Chill your
butter before combining it with the dry ingredients. You want it to
stay solid long enough in the oven to allow the water molecules to
evaporate, creating tiny air pockets for light texture. Start baking
at a high temperature to encourage quick evaporation. Then, turn
the heat down to give the dough time to bake through without
burning at the edges.
Protein gives baked goods structure, but too much protein will
result in tough cookies. Replacing some flour in the recipe with
cornstarch lowers the protein content of the dough. Since kneading
and rolling encourage gluten formation, it is better to gently cut the
butter into the flour mixture with the paddle attachment (rather
than warm hands, which will melt the butter), and then press the
dough into the pan rather than rolling it out.
While unsalted butter is preferable in most baking recipes,
shortbread is the exception. Using salted butter ensures that salt,
which is essential for flavor here, permeates the dough. Because
there is no liquid in the dough, added salt would not dissolve and
evenly distribute.
1
134
12
1
cup salted butter, chilled

cups (200 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
cup (37 grams) cornstarch
cup (100 grams) plus 1 tablespoon sugar
teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1. Preheat oven to 400F. Line a 9-inch cake pan with a circle of

parchment paper. Cut the butter into -inch cubes, place in a small
bowl, and freeze for 15 minutes.
2. In a large mixing bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, and cup
sugar and beat on low with an electric mixer until just combined.
Add the chilled butter and vanilla and beat until the dough is sandy
and holds together when pinched between your fingers, about 5
minutes.
3. Transfer the crumbs to the prepared pan and spread evenly over
the bottom. Use the bottom of a glass dipped in flour to compact
the crumbs. Prick all over with the sharp point of a skewer. Sprinkle
with the remaining tablespoon sugar.
4. Bake for 10 minutes, poke the top all over with a skewer, reduce
the temperature to 300F, and continue baking until pale golden,
dry and firm all the way through, 30 to 40 minutes.
5. Immediately invert shortbread onto a wire rack and then invert
again onto a cutting board. Use a pizza wheel to cut into 16 wedges.
Transfer wedges to the rack to cool.
ELEMENT: BUTTER
All fats, whether solid or liquid, add moisture
and tenderness to baked goods and extend
their shelf life. Solid and liquid fats can also
add flavor but butter will give baked goods
an incomparable fresh cream taste, which is
why it is preferred in most cookie recipes.
Butter can aid in leavening, while liquid
fats cannot. Butter can be creamed with
sugar, incorporating air, to help cookies rise.
Liquid fats (including melted butter) do not
retain air, so they should not be used for this
purpose.
Finally, butter contributes to the tenderness of cookies by coating the proteins in
flour, barring them from linking and creating
gluten. Shortened baked goodspie crusts,
biscuits and shortbreads are items in which
the butter is cut into flour, effectively coating
the proteins with fat and shortening the
gluten strands.
ELEMENT: FLOUR
Gluten, a network of proteins, develops when
flour is mixed with a liquid. During mixing,
the proteins in flour organize themselves
into a webbed cell structure made of gluten
strands, providing structure for baked goods.
As the flexible walls of the cells expand,
cakes, breads and cookies rise. At a certain
temperature, the gluten strands solidify, so
the baked goods dont fall as they cool.
Different types of flour contain different amounts of protein. In general, tender
items are made from flour with a low protein
content. Thus, yellow cake, biscuits and
madeleines often call for very soft cake flour,
which will develop relatively little gluten and
contribute to the tenderness of the finished
product. Conversely, items such as French
bread require a higher amount of gluten to
achieve a bubbly and open crumb along with
a thick, chewy crust. With some exceptions,
middle-of-the-road all-purpose
flour is just right for cookies.
TENDER, BUTTERY SHORTBREAD
Classic Peanut
Butter Cookies
Cakey Brownies
MAKES ABOUT 48 COOKIES
The chemical reactions that take place during baking dont cease the instant
that you remove your baked goods from the oven. The cooling period is
actually a time when proteins continue to coagulate and water continues
to evaporate from dough or batter.
For cakey brownies that are still moist, bake them at a moderate temperature and pull them from the oven while theyre still a little damp in
the center, with some wet crumbs sticking to a tester. As they cool, they
will finish baking.
One challenge with peanut butter cookies is the

more peanut butter you add, the greasier and
heavier the cookies become. To get a tender, light
cookie that delivers great nutty flavor, dont add
more peanut butter. Instead, mix in chopped
peanuts, which wont react on a molecular level
with the other ingredients. Reserving some of
the sugar and rolling dough balls in it just before
baking is a way to add sweetness to the cookies
without adding so much sugar that they spread
and flatten.
1 cup dry-roasted salted peanuts
2 cups (225 grams) unbleached
all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
12 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 cup (180 grams) firmly packed light
brown sugar
1 cup (200 grams) granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 cup smooth peanut butter
1. Place the nuts in a food processor and chop fine.
2. In a medium bowl, combine flour, baking soda,
baking powder and salt.
3. In a large mixing bowl, cream the butter, brown
sugar and cup granulated sugar together with
an electric mixer on medium speed until smooth.
Add the eggs, vanilla and peanut butter and beat
until smooth. Stir in the flour mixture until just
combined. Stir in the chopped peanuts. Cover
the bowl and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and
up to 2 days.
5. Place the remaining cup sugar in a small
bowl. Scoop a heaping tablespoon of dough
and roll it between your palms to form a ball.
Roll the balls in the sugar to coat and place on
a parchment-lined baking sheet, leaving about
3 inches between each cookie. Press each
cookie with the back of a fork twice in opposite
directions to make a crisscross pattern.
6. Bake the cookies until they are lightly colored,
about 11 to 13 minutes. Let them stand on the
baking sheet for 5 minutes and then carefully
slide the entire parchment with the cookies from
the pan to a wire rack and let them cool.
MAKES 16 BROWNIES
12
2
2
1
3
12
14
1
2
1
34
cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
ounces (2 squares) unsweetened chocolate, chopped
cup (112 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour
tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
teaspoon baking powder
teaspoon salt
cup (200 grams) sugar
large eggs
teaspoon pure vanilla extract
cup chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)
1. Preheat oven to 350F. Line an 8-inch square baking pan with heavyduty aluminum foil, making sure that the foil is tucked into all the corners
and that there is at least 1 inch overhanging the top of the pan on all sides.
2. Put 1 inch of water in the bottom of a double boiler or medium saucepan
and bring to a simmer.
3. Combine the butter and chocolate in the top of the double boiler or
in a stainless-steel bowl and set on top of the simmering water, making
sure that the water doesnt touch the bottom of the bowl. Heat, whisking
occasionally, until the chocolate and butter are completely melted. Set
aside to cool slightly.
4. In a small mixing bowl, combine flour, cocoa powder, baking powder
and salt.
5. In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the sugar and eggs. With a wooden spoon, stir in the chocolate mixture and vanilla. Stir in the flour mixture
until just incorporated. Stir in the nuts, if using.
6. Pour the batter into the prepared baking dish. Bake the brownies until
they are just set in the center, about 25 minutes. Let them cool completely
on a wire rack.
7. Grasping the overhanging foil on either side of the pan, lift out the
brownies and place them on a cutting board. Cut them into 16 squares.
Variation: Fudgy Brownies
If your ideal is closer to fudge than cake, youll want your brownies underbaked at the center. For the solution, I turned to what Alice Medrich calls
the Steve ritual in her book, Cookies and Brownies, which is named after
an old friend who discovered it.
For Fudgy Brownies: Preheat the oven to 400F instead of 350F. Position
the rack on the bottom third of the oven. Fill a large baking pan halfway with
ice water. Bake the brownies until dry on top, 15 to 18 minutes. Remove the
pan from the oven and immediately submerge the bottom half in the ice
bath to stop the baking. Cool completely in the ice bath before removing
from the pan and cutting.
CAKEY BROWNIES
ANATOMY OF A CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIE
SOFT AND CAKEY VERSUS CRISP AND CHEWY: WHATS YOUR FAVORITE?
We often like what our taste buds are used to, whether that is grandmas recipewhich
may actually be from the back of the chocolate chip bagor a variation. Without straying
too far from the classic formula it is possible to play with standard ingredients and
techniques to come up with a cookie that will please your particular tastes. Cookie lovers
generally divide themselves into crisp and chewy or soft and cakey categories. Here are
techniques and key tips to help achieve your favorite and a recipe for each cookie camp.
Soft and Cakey

Chocolate Chip Cookies

all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher or fine sea salt
teaspoon baking powder
1 cup (180 grams) packed light brown sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 large egg
2 large egg whites
1 10-ounce bag bittersweet chocolate chips
1. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking soda, salt and baking powder.
2. In the bowl of an electric mixer or a large bowl if using a hand-held mixer, combine
brown sugar, granulated sugar and butter, and cream together on medium-low speed
until fluffy and light, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla, egg and egg whites and mix until
incorporated. Add the flour mixture and mix until a dough forms. Add the chocolate
chips and mix to combine.
3. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours and up to 1 day.
4. Preheat oven to 375F. Line several baking sheets with parchment paper.
5. Use a small ice cream scoop to drop rounded spoonfuls onto parchment-lined baking
sheets, leaving about 3 inches between each cookie.
6. Bake until golden around the edges but soft on top, 8 to 9 minutes. Let stand on baking
sheet for 5 minutes and then remove with a metal spatula to a wire rack to cool.
Tips and Tricks: Soft and Cakey Cookies
Cream butter and sugar together. This will whip some air into the dough, so your
cookies will puff up a bit in the oven.
teaspoon of baking powder along with the soda will provide more lift.
Subtract an egg yolk and use an extra egg white. Egg whites contain more water
than yolks, which when evaporated in the oven, helps cookies rise like little cakes.
Use twice as much brown sugar as white sugar. Brown sugar, which is slightly
acidic, will react with the baking soda in the recipe for a higher rise.
Add a little extra flour, enough to add structure, but not so much that it will dilute
the sweetness of the sugar.
Chill the dough. Cold dough will spread less in the oven, creating a cakey center.
Turn up the heat. If a recipe calls for 350F, increase to 375F. A hotter oven will
allow the cookies to bake before spreading, resulting in cakey centers.
CHEWY VS CAKEY CHOCOLATE COOKIES
Crisp and Chewy

Chocolate Chip Cookies

all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon kosher or fine sea salt
12 cup (90 grams) packed light brown sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted
and cooled
1 large egg
2 large egg yolks
1 10-ounce bag bittersweet chocolate chips
1. Preheat oven to 325F. Line baking sheets with
parchment paper.
2. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour, baking
soda and salt.
3. In the bowl of an electric mixer or a large bowl
if using a hand-held mixer, combine brown sugar,
granulated sugar and butter and mix on low. Add
vanilla, egg and egg yolks and mix until incorporated. Add the flour mixture and mix until a dough
forms. Add the chocolate chips and mix to combine.
4. Let dough stand 10 minutes to firm up, and then
use a small ice cream scoop to drop rounded tablespoonfuls onto parchment-lined baking sheets,
leaving about 3 inches between each cookie.
5. Bake until golden around the edges but soft on
top, 9 to 10 minutes. Let stand on baking sheet for
5 minutes and then remove with a metal spatula to
a wire rack to cool.
Tips and Tricks: Crisp and Chewy Cookies
Use melted, not softened butter for a dense
and chewy texture.
Subtract an egg white and add an extra
egg yolk. Yolks have more fat than whites,
which give cookies a fudgy rather than
cakey texture.
Use twice as much white sugar as brown.
White sugar, which is neutral rather than
acidic like brown sugar, will cause your
cookies to spread rather than rise. It will
also give your cookies a nice crispness
around the edges.
Turn down the heat. A cooler oven will let
the cookies spread without drying out.
Do not overbake. Cookies will continue to
firm up and dry out as they cool off, so pull
them out of the oven while they still look
a little damp on top.
Lemon Meringue Cookies

ELEMENT: EGGS
Both egg yolks and whites are high in protein, which
transforms from liquid to solid as it cooks. Here is
how it happens: Uncooked protein consists of small
individual, tightly coiled strands. Heating these proteins causes them to unravel and then link together
with each other, forming a solid mass, or more precisely, separate solid curds. If you stir uncooked eggs
into cookie dough, the proteins will do the same
thing, linking up with each other to hold your cookies together and give them a solid structure. Think
about the difference in texture between a chocolate
chip cookie, which contains eggs and becomes solid
and chewy when baked, and a shortbread cookie,
which contains no egg and has a fragile texture.
Egg whites consist of tightly wound but separate
strands of protein, which, during whipping, uncoil
and link together with each other, forming a weblike network that traps and holds air. When whipped
correctly (and not over-whipped), egg whites remain
soft, moist and flexible, so they can stretch as the air
trapped within their network expands in the oven.
ELEMENT: SUGAR
Caramelization is a chemical reaction that occurs
when sugar is heated until its molecules break apart
and recombine. Sugar, caramelizing in the heat of
the oven, gives cookies a depth of flavor that goes
beyond sweetness to include flavors and aromas
ranging from sweet or sour to bitter.
Sugar is also a tenderizer. During mixing, sugar
absorbs liquid in cookie dough, preventing a portion
of it from combining with the protein in flour
and thus preventing some gluten from forming.
Sweeter cookies tend to be softer than cookies
with less sugar.
Additionally, sugar raises the temperature at
which a batter will change from liquid to solid by
delaying the coagulation of proteins. So the more
sugar in your cookie dough, the longer
it will take to solidify in the oven,
and the more your cookies will
flatten and spread.
Meringue cookies are a wonderful demonstration of

chemistry in baking. To make them, first you have to
mechanically break down the protein bonds in egg whites
by whisking them until foamy. Then you combine the
whites with sugar and build the mixture back up into an
elastic network of liquid and protein molecules that can
expand to hold air bubbles. A little acid, in the form of
cream of tartar, will prevent the proteins in the eggs from
coagulating too quickly, allowing more air to be beaten
into the mixture before it stiffens completely.
For a fluffy but stable meringue, beat half of the sugar
into the whites until it is dissolved, and then beat the
other half in briefly so its still a little bit grainy. Beating
the mixture until all of the sugar dissolves will result in
a syrupy rather than fluffy consistency. There is much
debate about whether cold or room temperature whites
are better for meringues. Room temperature egg whites
will whip to a higher volume but their larger bubbles are
more likely to pop when the meringue is handled. On the
other hand, cold whites produce smaller, tighter bubbles
that dont deflate as easily.
Meringue cookies piped through a pastry bag are pretty,
but squeezing your batter can deflate it slightly. For the
highest volume, simply spoon heaping teaspoonfuls of the
mixture onto baking sheets, using a finger to draw each
portion up into a decorative peak.
4 large egg whites, chilled
teaspoon cream of tartar
pinch salt
1 cup (200 grams) sugar
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
12 teaspoon vanilla extract
teaspoon lemon extract
yellow food coloring (optional)
1. Arrange oven racks on top and bottom thirds of the
oven. Preheat to 200F. Line several baking sheets with
parchment paper.
2. In a large mixing bowl, whip the egg whites on medium
speed until frothy, about 30 seconds. Add the cream of
tartar and salt and continue to whip until they are white
and hold soft peaks, about 1 minute.
3. With the mixer on, slowly sprinkle in half of the sugar
and continue to whip until incorporated, 1 minute. Turn the
mixer to low and sprinkle in the remaining sugar until just
incorporated. Add the zest, vanilla and lemon extract, and
beat just until incorporated. Swirl a few drops of yellow
food coloring into the mixture to create streaks, if desired.
4. Bake until dry and firm, about 1 hours. Let cool completely on the baking sheets.
NUTRITION
LEMON MERINGUE COOKIES
TENDER, BUTTERY
SHORTBREAD:
PER SERVING: CALORIES
184 (102 from fat); FAT
12g (sat. 7g); CHOL 31mg;
SODIUM 92mg; CARB 19g;
CLASSIC PEANUT BUTTER

COOKIES:
135 (72 from fat); FAT 8g (sat.
3g); CHOL 18mg; SODIUM
PROTEIN 3g
CAKEY BROWNIES:
215 (116 from fat); FAT 13g
(s a t . 6 g) ; C H O L 3 9 m g ;
SODIUM 62mg; CARB 23g;
SOFT & CAKEY

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES:
PROTEIN 2g
CRISP & CHEWY

CHOCOLATE CHIP COOKIES:
PROTEIN 2g
LEMON MERINGUE
COOKIES:
PROTEIN 0g
CRISPY CHICKEN SPRING ROLLS

(RECIPE PAGE 48)
The Art
of Appetizers
Fill your platters with these recipes
that promise small bites with big flavor
hether you are hosting a small get-together or feeding an army, crafting a delicious spread
of starters can be daunting without the proper know-how and inspiration. Make mental notes
prior to preparing your food: How many people are you feeding? What is the overall theme or mood
of the gathering? Do any of your guests have dietary restrictions? Keep these things in mind as you
construct platters of apps. And, to help you get started, try these recipes from cookbook authors Helene
An, Jacqueline An and Barton Seaver. From An: To Eat, the mother-daughter team melds Vietnamese,
French and Californian influences for mouth-watering dishes including Crispy Chicken Spring Rolls and
Balsamic Chicken Pot Stickers that are sure to impress your guests. Entertaining seafood fans? Seavers
Two If by Sea draws on sustainable seafood for a delectable Scallop Satay drizzled with peanut sauce.
And a hummus recipe by Julia Joliff mixes in even more good-for-you ingredients with spinach and
artichokes. Who knows, your starters may steal the show. Aubrey Schield
Crispy Chicken Spring Rolls

MAKES 30 ROLLS, RECIPE BY HELENE AN AND JACQUELINE AN
This is one of our most popular appetizers and has been on our menu from the beginning.
Since it is fried, we like to serve it with our Garlic Lemon Sauce (recipe at right), pickled
vegetables and a Vietnamese herb salad to cut the oil, balancing the heavy with the light.
pounds ground dark meat chicken
pounds white onion, minced and squeezed to remove excess juice
pounds carrots, finely chopped
pounds jicama, julienned into long strips
ounces fresh shiitake mushrooms, minced
ounces fresh wood ear mushrooms, minced
ounces transparent vermicelli cellophane noodles (min),
(min), cooked
tablespoons oyster sauce
tablespoon fish sauce
teaspoons sugar
teaspoon sesame oil
teaspoon sea salt
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
sheets rice paper, dampened and stacked (see box below)
cups canola oil
1. In a large bowl, mix the chicken with the onions, carrots, jicama and mushrooms. Add
the noodles and mix well. Mix in the oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar, oil, salt and pepper.
2. Place one rice paper wrapper in front of you on a hard surface or cutting board. Put
1 tablespoon of the meat mixture in a horizontal line about one third of the way up the
wrapper from the bottom, leaving a finger-width border on either side. Fold the bottom
of the wrapper over the meat and start rolling upward, making sure to tuck in the sides
as you go. Dont roll too tightly or the wrapper might tear. Place the roll on a plate and
repeat with the remaining wrappers and meat filling.
3. Heat the oil in a deep skillet or wok over medium heat. Line a baking sheet with paper
towels. Once the oil is hot, place 5 rolls at time in the pan and cook them until their
outsides turn golden brown, about 7 to 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon or skimmer,
transfer the cooked rolls to the prepared baking sheet to drain. Repeat the process
with the remaining rolls.
4. Serve the spring rolls hot along with the Garlic Lemon Sauce.
Garlic Lemon Sauce

MAKES ABOUT 523 CUPS
1 cup sugar
1 cup fish sauce
13 cup freshly squeezed
lemon juice
13 cup rice vinegar
1 tablespoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon birds eye chile,
seeded and cut into thin
strips, or 1 tablespoon
chili paste
1. Add 3 cups of warm water to a
large bowl. Mix in the sugar and stir
until completely dissolved. Add the
fish sauce, lemon juice, rice vinegar,
garlic and chile. Stir well.
Cooks Note: The sauce can be kept
in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
THE SECRET TO PREPARING RICE PAPER FOR CRISPY ROLLS

To make perfectly crispy spring rolls, youll need to use several different towels at
once and stack them so the rice paper doesnt dry out. The perfect towel for the job
is a small, clean, lint-free kitchen towel that will hold moisture. (Paper towels will
break and washcloths hold too much water.) We usually have about 10 kitchen
towels on hand for this purpose.
To prepare the rice paper:
1. Fill a large bowl with warm water and soak the towels all together. Remove the
towels one-by-one and squeeze all of the water out of each towel. Lay the cloths
flat on a hard surface or wooden cutting board, one on top of the other.
2. Take the top cloth off and place it on a hard surface or cutting board. Place one
rice paper wrapper on top of the cloth, and then place another cloth on top of it.
Continue making a new stack, alternately layering cloths and rice wrappers until
you have covered all of your wrappers.
3. Now flip the stack over so that the rice wrapper on the bottom is now on the top,
and use that one first, as it will be the wettest and ready to go.
RICE PAPER FKRUGER - FOTOLIA.COM SPRING ROLLS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM AN: TO EAT 2016 BY
HELENE AN AND JACQUELINE AN, RUNNING PRESS, A MEMBER OF THE PERSEUS BOOKS GROUP. PHOTO BY EVAN SUNG.
4
4
2
2
2
2
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2
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30
3
Scallop Satay
MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY BARTON SEAVER
SATAY REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM TWO IF BY SEA 2016 BY BARTON SEAVER, STERLING EPICURE, AN IMPRINT OF STERLING PUBLISHING CO., INC.
PHOTO BY MICHAEL PIAZZA HUMMUS RECIPE AND IMAGE BY JULIA JOLIFF OF A CEDAR SPOON BLOG, COURTESY OF USA DRY PEA AND LENTIL COUNCIL
There are few foods so naturally balanced in flavor as scallops, and they
pair beautifully with all sorts of seasonings. In this marinade I combine
the punch and personality of garlic and ginger, the svelte savor of soy,
and peanut butters hearty richness. This dish is a snap because you do
the work once to get the flavor twice, first in the marinade, then in the
sauce. For food safety reasons, just make sure that you separate what
will become the sauce from what is used to marinate.
1 pound medium untreated scallops
salt
2 tablespoons rice vinegar, divided use
2 tablespoons smooth or chunky peanut butter
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon aji-mirin (or substitute maple syrup)
1 clove garlic, grated
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 tablespoon peanut oil
1. Season the scallops lightly with salt. Whisk together 1 tablespoon
of the vinegar, the peanut butter, soy sauce, mirin, garlic and ginger.
Pour half the marinade over the scallops, tossing gently to combine.
Add the remaining 1 tablespoon of vinegar to the unused marinade
and whisk to make the sauce; set aside.
2. Thread 3 to 4 scallops onto a skewer and return to the marinade.
Repeat with the remaining scallops. Marinate for at least 20 minutes
and up to overnight.
3. Heat the peanut oil in a large saut pan over high heat until shimmering. Add the scallop skewers and cook, without moving, until the
scallops develop a darkly caramelized crust, about 3 minutes. Turn
off the heat and carefully flip the skewers and leave in the pan until
cooked through, about 2 minutes.
4. Drizzle the skewers with the reserved peanut sauce and serve
immediately.
Spinach Artichoke
Chickpea Hummus
MAKES 4 SERVINGS, RECIPE BY JULIA JOLIFF
A healthy mix of chickpeas, fresh spinach and artichokes is a tasty dip served with warm pita bread,
chopped vegetables, chips or crackers.
112 cups cooked chickpeas (See Cooks Note)
1 14-ounce can (1 cup) artichoke hearts,
drained
3 cups fresh spinach
2 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon tahini paste (sesame seed
paste)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12 teaspoon salt
fresh spinach, chopped, for garnish
artichokes hearts, chopped, for garnish
1. In a food processor add the chickpeas, artichokes,
fresh spinach, garlic cloves, lemon juice, tahini, extra
virgin olive oil and salt. Pulse until smooth, stopping
to scrape down the sides occasionally.
2. Place in a bowl and garnish with fresh chopped
spinach and artichokes, if desired. Leftovers may be
stored in a covered container in the refrigerator for
up to 5 days.
Cooks Note: To cook dry chickpeas, place chickpeas
in a large bowl and cover completely with cold water.
Soak overnight, about 12 hours. Once soaked, drain
chickpeas and transfer to a large cooking pot. Cover
with water twice the amount of beans and bring to a
boil. Cover and simmer for approximately one hour.
Taste-test to make sure they are tender enough for
your liking. Drain and allow to cool for 15 minutes.
Once chickpeas are cooled they are ready to be used.
Cooked chickpeas can keep covered in the refrigerator for up to three days.
Balsamic Chicken Pot Stickers

MAKES 48 POT STICKERS, RECIPE BY HELENE AN AND JACQUELINE AN
This recipe gives a traditional Asian dish a little European flair. Juicy chicken dumplings are pan seared like traditional pot stickers
and balanced with a balsamic reduction for sweetness. A touch of butter at the end of the cooking process adds an extra flavor boost.
cup (about 1 ounces) dried wood ear mushrooms
cup (about 1 ounces) dried shiitake mushrooms
cups chopped white onion
teaspoons oyster sauce
tablespoon fish sauce
teaspoon sugar
teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
teaspoon salt
pound ground dark meat chicken
cup finely chopped carrot (about 5 ounces or 1 carrots)
(12-ounce) package dumpling skins or wrappers
canola oil, for frying
unsalted butter
For the balsamic reduction:

1 cup balsamic vinegar
cup lightly packed brown sugar
1. Soak the mushrooms in warm water, until they soften and expand, about 1 hour. Drain the mushrooms and set aside.
2. Put a medium pan over medium heat. Add the onion and saut for 2 to 3 minutes or until softened and fragrant.
3. To make the pot sticker filling: In a large bowl, mix together the oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar, pepper and salt. Add the sauted
onions and ground chicken and mix well. Fill a larger bowl with ice and set the bowl with the filling inside. Cover the bowls and
refrigerate for 1 hour.
4. In a food processor or blender, grind the reconstituted mushrooms with the carrots. Stir this mixture into the chilled stuffing.
5. To make the dumplings: Fill a small bowl with cool water. Place a dumpling skin in front of you on a hard surface or cutting board.
Place 1 full teaspoon of chicken filling in the middle of the dumpling skin. Moisten the edges of the dumpling skin with water. Fold
one edge of the skin over to cover the filling, overlapping the other edge. Press the skin firmly around the filling to eliminate any
air bubbles and press around the edges to seal. Repeat with the remaining dumpling skins and filling.
6. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. In batches, add the dumplings and cook until they float to the top of the pot, about 15 minutes.
Transfer the cooked dumplings to a plate.
7. To make the balsamic reduction: Pour the vinegar into a medium saucepan over low heat. Stir in the sugar until it is dissolved.
Continue cooking until the amount of liquid in the pan is reduced by half. Set aside.
8. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 200F. Line a large baking sheet with paper towels.
9. To fry the pot stickers: Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Working in batches, add 6 cooked dumplings (or whatever will comfortably fit in your pan without overcrowding) and saut them until they are golden brown, about 5
minutes on each side. Add 1 tablespoon of butter and saut for another minute. As they finish cooking, transfer the pot stickers to
the prepared baking sheet and keep them warm in the oven. Repeat until all of the dumplings are fried.
10. Serve them warm, drizzled with the balsamic reduction.
NUTRITION
Cooks Note: This recipe makes a large batch. Freeze the extras to have a quick meal on hand for the future. To freeze, put uncooked
dumplings on a baking sheet, making sure none stick together, and sprinkle them with flour. Freeze them until theyre solid, then
transfer them to freezer bags. To reheat the pot stickers, bring a large pot of water to a boil, add the frozen pot stickers, and boil
for about 15 minutes or until they rise to the surface. Drain. At this point, you can either eat them as dumplings or fry them into
pot stickers.
CRISPY CHICKEN SPRING ROLLS

W. SAUCE:
fat); FAT 12g (sat. 2g); CHOL 39mg; SODIUM
1022mg; CARB 32g; FIBER 3g; PROTEIN 11g
SCALLOP SATAY:
SPINACH ARTICHOKE CHICKPEA

HUMMUS:
BALSAMIC CHICKEN POT STICKERS:

PER SERVING: CALORIES 95 (45 from fat);
FAT 5g (sat. 0g); CHOL 10mg; SODIUM 75mg;
CARB 10g; FIBER 1g; PROTEIN 3g
POT STICKERS REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM AN: TO EAT 2016 BY HELENE AN AND JACQUELINE AN, RUNNING
PRESS, A MEMBER OF THE PERSEUS BOOKS GROUP. PHOTO BY EVAN SUNG.
2
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BALSAMIC CHICKEN POT STICKERS
Secrets of the
Roman Kitchen
Katie Parla weaves practical meal ideas with tales of food and culture in the Eternal City
BY TARA Q. THOMAS
There are two kinds of cookbooks: the sort that focuses

solely on Whats for dinner tonight? and the sort that provides
an escape from the everyday dinner grind, focusing instead on
faraway cultures. The latter tends to be the type you save for
weekend cooking, or even just bedside readingrarely do the
two types mix. But that is why Tasting Rome, a new book out
from Katie Parla and Kristina Gill, is so compelling.
Parla is the go-to source for countless food-obsessed travelers to Rome, Italy, where she lives, including food-world
royalty Mario Batali and Andrew Zimmern, who she recently
led around for an episode of Bizarre Foods. She is also a soughtafter writer, the author of more than 20 food and travel books
for the likes of National Geographic, Fodors and the Rough
Guides, and writes frequently for The New York Times, Saveur,
Food & Wine and Bon Apptit, just to name a few of her
American outlets.
Gill is a photographer from Nashville, Tenn., who has lived
in Rome since 1999, shooting pictures of her adopted hometown as well as exotic locales for a host of food and travel
magazines, and covers food in words and pictures for the
website Design*Sponge.
I missed Gill when she came back east this past spring, but
Parla landed for a tour of what amounted to the best Italian
restaurants in the U.S.from Frankies 570 Sputino in New York
City and Frasca in Boulder, Co., to Tratto in Phoenix, Monteverde
in Chicago, Locanda in San Francisco and many more. When I
caught her one morning, she was pausing for some downtime
in New Jersey, where she grew up. Next time I do a book tour,
I have to remember Im not 22, she says dryly.
She is actually not even 40, which brings me to the question:
How did a woman from New Jersey become a font of knowledge about Italian cookingand so quickly? It is true that her
dad runs a restaurant, Clydz, in New Brunswick, N.J., but the
place specializes in wild game, not Italian food.
She laughs and admits she cant really explain what drew
her to Italy in the first place, but the attachment is strong.
When I landed in Italy for the first timeas a [high school]
sophomore in 1996it was an immediate reaction, she
says. I have to admit it wasnt exactly logicalthis was
Fiumicino airport, which was a disaster back thenbut it was
almost like it was something about breathing the air; it was an
instantaneous reaction.
Back in the States, Parla went on to study art history at Yale,
and returned to Rome to continue her studies. But I immediately got distracted by food and wine, she laughs. Growing
up in an Italian-American family, food was always at the heart
of everything I did. It translated quite easily when I moved
there. She got in at the right time, too, she adds. The euro had
just been introduced and the dollar was strong; even a recent
grad could afford a pretty nice meal.
While the density and complexity of Rome can throw many
visitors off, Parla found it only drew her in more. There are
roughly 125 districts, each with its own reality. And I loved the
idea that you can really only know a handful; unless you live
The idea that there are no

historically documented
recipes for what we
consider Roman cooking is
proof that we can make our
own choices in the kitchen.
Katie Parla
there, your knowledge will remain only superficial. Parla delved in deeply, befriending
butchers and bakers, fishmongers and chefs.
When she discovered she could even take formal academic courses in Italian food at the
University of Rome, she jumped at the chance.
I didnt even know you could study [food] as
an academic! She ended up focusing on the
influence of Arab agriculture and irrigation on
Sicilian food culture, and graduated with a
Masters in Italian Gastronomic Culture.
In many ways, though, what Parla has
learned over the years is that the reality of life
for Romans isnt in fact all that different from
Americans. The idea that everyone shops at
farmers markets and butchers, for instance?
Parla sighs. Theres a huge number of romantic stereotypes of Rome, she says. The farmers
markets lead you to believe there are these
tight connections between farmers and the city,
but in fact, there was a big shift in the 1970s
when supermarkets were introduced as an
option. Now the vast majority who shop in
produce [farmers] markets are 50 and over.
(Except, of course, for Parla, who is in there
chatting all of the sellers up, and Gill, who is
busy capturing them in photos.)
There is also the idea that Roman cuisine is
a stable concept that is steadfast in the face of
globalization. There are, Parla says, certainly
customs that have held on, such as Giovedi

gnocchi, which is eating gnocchi on
Thursdaysa tradition both home cooks and
restaurants still embrace. But it is the changes
she finds exciting as well. For example, she
points to the Jewish quarter, where Pope Paul
IV segregated the citys Jews in the early 1500s.
Between their religions dietary rules and poverty, they developed their own distinct take on
Roman cuisine. To this day, you will find dishes that hark back to those daysinexpensive
vegetables such as artichokes were turned into
delicacies through deep-frying, and tough cuts
of meat were used in long-simmered stews. But
some surprised Parla. I noticed other dishes
that kept popping up, like these aromatic spiced
cookies that look as though they are right out
of a Sicilian pastry shop window, she says.
Only after research did I realize there are Jews
from Sicily here, too.
She and Gill devote an entire chapter to
cucina ebraica, documenting the cuisine as new
immigrants added their own flavors to the mix
such as the vinegar tang of fried and marinated
zucchini, which is the lasting influence of
Spanish Jews who arrived in 1492. And Libyans,
who took refuge there in the 1960s, brought the
cumin, caraway and hot pepper that flavor a
fish couscous.
Even more recently, Parla says, you can see
the cuisine evolving. Over the last decade, even
the structure of meals has turned pretty dramatically, Parla says. Ever since the euro was
introduced, the disposable income has really
dwindled, and its only exacerbated by the
youth unemployment rate. At the same time,
people still want to go out. So now when you
go out for a meal, rather than going out for a
full-blown meal, people get just a couple of
dishes. And the restaurants, to compete, are
blowing up the pasta dishes in size. It used to
be that five ounces of pasta fed two people, she
explains; now that is a serving for one.
The normal reaction is to blame the
American tendency to super-size everything,
but Parla says this is purely locally driven.
Initially, to me, it felt like an American
influence, but over time Ive realized that
really its arisen out of an internal change in
local culture.
You could live in the past, regretting what
was lost, or you could embrace the positive
aspects of the changelike Parla and Gill
haveextending the variations on rice balls
in their book to three (including a purpletinged radicchio and blue cheese), and
celebrating the genius of the trapizzino, a
three-cornered portable sandwich made of

pizza bianca, which was invented at a pizza
joint in 2009, and they consider it already
part of the Roman culinary canon.
The most important take-away for Parla
and any reader of Tasting Rome is, in fact, the
personal realization that comes out of
understanding that authentic is, in a
healthy, thriving culture, an ever-morphing
conceptone that leaves room for personal
interpretation. The idea that there are no
historically documented recipes for what
we consider Roman cooking is proof
that we can make our own choices in the
kitchen, Parla says. People may argue over
whether spaghetti or rigatoni in your carbonara is correct, but in fact, theres no
right or wrong; Gill and Parlas favorite
recipe uses a highly unusual but foolproof
technique for getting the eggs to coat the
pasta rather than clumpand suggests saving some of the pork fat for making a
Carbonara Sour, a cocktail they teased out
of the barkeep at a Roman bar called Cocktail
& Social. Is either dish less Roman for being
a modern interpretation?
Well, consider this: Carbonarathat
quintessentially Roman dishhas in fact
been around for little more than 50 years. If
you want something with a longer history,
Parla says, it would be spaghetti alla gricia,
one of the simplest recipes in Tasting Rome,
an uncannily satisfying mix of rendered
pork fat and cheese.
In her own private Rome, howeverthe
one that consists of a busy working life in a
bustling, ever-changing citythe dish that
she whips up most often is cacio e pepe
pepe
pasta tossed with grated Pecorino Romano
cheese. Its super-fast, primal and basic, she
says. Its basically mac and cheese.
PHOTOS AND RECIPE REPRINTED FROM TASTING ROME: FRESH

FLAVORS AND FORGOTTEN RECIPES FROM AN ANCIENT CITY.
COPYRIGHT 2016 BY KATIE PARLA AND KRISTINA GILL.
PHOTOGRAPHS COPYRIGHT 2016 BY KRISTINA GILL. PUBLISHED
BY CLARKSON POTTER/PUBLISHERS, AN IMPRINT OF PENGUIN
RANDOM HOUSE LLC.
Leonardo Vignolis Cacio e Pepe

Cacio is the local Roman dialect word for Pecorino Romano, a sheeps-milk cheese
made in the region since ancient times. Like carbonara, cacio e pepe is a relative
newcomer to the Roman repertoire, first appearing in the mid-20th century. Pasta
is tossed with an emulsified sauce of Pecorino Romano and black pepper that is
bound by starchy pasta cooking water. Depending on the cook, the results range
from dry to juicy. We love Leonardo Vignolis saucy version at Cesae al Casaletto.
He uses ice in a hot pan to obtain a creamy sauce, but we have adapted his recipe to
obtain more consistent results in a home kitchen. Finely grated Pecorino Romano
and very hot water are essential to a smooth sauce, while fresh, coarsely ground
black pepper gives flavor and texture. The most important component of a flawless cacio e pepe, however, is speed. If the water cools before melting the cheese,
the sauce will clump.
sea salt
1 pound spaghetti or tonnarelli
2 cups finely grated Pecorino Romano
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
1. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil over high heat. Salt the water. When
the salt has dissolved, add the pasta and cook until al dente.
2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine 1 cups of the Pecorino Romano, the pepper, and a small ladle of pasta cooking water. Using the back of a large wooden
spoon, mix vigorously and quickly to form a paste.
3. When the pasta is cooked, use a large strainer to remove it from the cooking
water and quickly add it to the sauce in the bowl, keeping the cooking water boiling
on the stove. Toss vigorously, adjusting with additional hot water a tablespoon
or two at a time as necessary to melt the cheese and to obtain a juicy sauce that
completely coats the pasta.
4. Plate and sprinkle each portion with some of the remaining Pecorino Romano
and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
pairings
The Beauty of Beaujolais

Lively and easy to drink, Beaujolais can make a match at most any meal
BY MARY SUBIALKA
n the southernmost portion of Frances Burgundy region is Beaujolais,

where wines are made with the Gamay grape. No other area in the world
has been able to make wines with this grape as well as here. A distinctive
fermentation process, known as carbonic maceration, produces this lightstyle red wine with low tannins and heightens its fresh fruity flavor, which
is often described as including black cherry and raspberry notes with hints
of peach. This makes for an easy drinking wine that pairs well with a wide
range of food.
Wines simply labeled Beaujolais have more substance than Beaujolais
Nouveau, which is the especially young wine released only a month
or two after harvest that receives a fair amount of hoopla around its
release (always on the third Thursday in November).
There are good values with wine labeled only as Beaujolais,
or a step up the quality trellis is Beaujolais-Villages. Another rung
up are more complex wines with a specific village name such as
Cte de Brouilly, Morgon or Moulin--Vent, for example.
Versatile Beaujolais pairs well with food from quiche or Brie and
cheddar cheese to roasted chicken, pork or turkey to Thai curry dishes
and pizza. Its hint of earthiness also plays off the flavor of mushrooms
and bacon while its fruity flavors can top off a meal alongside
berry desserts.
PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN;

FOOD STYLED BY LARA MIKLASEVICS
In collaboration with Lynn Woodruff Peterson of Lynn Peterson Design.
The Room with a View.

Make your home shine with beauty, room after room. Our 37 years of experience speaks of
highly satisfied clients and countless homes of unmatched beauty, design and craftsmanship.
Please give us a call to discuss your next project with a view.
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Lunds & Byerlys

DOABLE DOUGH: Family-friendly meals made easy

SOME INVESTMENTS ARE

Arrow Building Center

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McCarrons Building Center

CRU TCHFIELD DERMATOLO GY

CRUTCHFIELD DER MATOLOGY

1185 Town Centre Drive, Suite 101, Eagan | 651.209.3600 | www.CrutchfieldDermatology.com

BEAUTIFUL KITCHENS AND

Your Home Is Our Passion

46 The Art of Appetizers

2 real food fall 2016

Tender, Buttery Shortbread

PUBLISHER JAMIE FLAWS

Feasts and Fetes for

MARY MCCARTNEY, PICTURED WITH

4 real food fall 2016

tablespoons light olive oil or vegetable oil

PHOTOS AND RECIPES REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM

fall 2016 real food 5

The Lure of the

o see a pickle is to crave a pickle. Like chili spice or potato

PHOTO BY TERRY BRENNAN;

6 real food fall 2016

Classic Dill Pickle Spears

This is the crowd favorite, the dill spear.

1. Cut cucumber into spears about 4 inches long. Place spears

Bread and Butter Pickles

Swedish 1-2-3 Pickles

The ratio is simple to remember: 1 part vinegar, 2 parts sugar and

1. Slice cucumber and onion half into -inch slices. Toss

Brine Pickled Onions

Here is another pickle worth keeping around for almost any

medium white onion

BREAD AND BUTTER PICKLES:

1. In a medium saucepan, add the beets and 2 quarts water,

The Quickest Pickles

CLASSIC DILL PICKLE SPEARS:

pound fresh beets

This is super fast and versatile. Try atop salads,

BRINE PICKLED ONIONS: PER

SWEDISH 1-2-3 PICKLES: PER

THE QUICKEST PICKLES: PER

fall 2016 real food 7

is a culinary instructor at Le Cordon Bleu

intended to be a chef when she

began her food career on the other side

8 real food fall 2016

is a cookbook author, freelance writer

Lunds & Byerlys

LUNDS & BYERLYS KITCHEN

REAL FOOD COMMENTS

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