1: OK.... pull the hood latch. Remove the bolts from the latch.

It should be
able to come up and out of the slot. Then remove the pull cable from it. Remo
ve any tie wraps, etc that will keep the cable from sliding back through the fir
ewall. Remove the glove box door. Remove all the glove box screws. Reach behi
nd the glove box and find the hood cable. Undo the plastic bolt that keeps it t
ight. You might need a wrench, but it's probably just finger tight. The cable
runs through the nut. Pull the T handle and cable out. You might have to feed
the end of the latch cable through the firewall because of the nubbin on the end
of it. Once you have the cable out, you can pull the top part of the glove box
.
2: Remove the ECU bracket screw from the lower cross brace. Unplug the wiper m
otor.
3: Remove the screw covers from the top screws (3), remove screws. (leave the
top wiper screws in for now...) Remove screws on each end of the dash. Remove
ashtray. Remove screws from ash tray bracket. (it might be kinda of 'stuck' behi
nd the grab bar) Remove the driver side panel (under the steering wheel). You
should now be able to unplug the duty switch from the instrument cluster. My du
ty switch was attached to the drivers panel. Remove the screws from the dash th
at attach to support brackets (one on each side). Remove radio assembly. Remov
e radio support bracket. By now the dash should be pretty loose. Don't try pull
ing it yet...
4: Remove the climate control knobs. Remove the climate control face plate. I
used a welding rod bent 90 degrees. Reach in and use it like a hook. Pull eac
h side out a little bit at a time until it comes out. If you pull too much, you
can break the face plate. Don't get crazy, pull it out just enough to get to t
he lamp connector. Slight twist and it should come out. Remove the 2 screws ho
lding the controls to the dash. I pulled the plastic tubes for the defrost circ
uit next. There's one on each side of the heater assembly. They run vertically
on each side of the blower housing.
5: Pull the steering wheel. Yes, you might be able to get the dash out without
doing this, but again, it makes life so much easier... Center the wheels. Po
p the center cap off. Undo the nut. The steering wheel might wiggle off the sp
lines. Mine didn't. DO NOT HIT THE SHAFT TO GET IT OFF! You will most likely
F the threads up. Even if you leave the nut on, you're probably gonna jack the
threads. Use a puller. I have a set I got at Harbor Freight like 10 years ago.
It still only costs less than $10. And it comes with both SAE and metric pull
bolts...
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824
It works fine for light work like this. It does 2 and 3 bolt pulls. Attach the
puller and it was off in less than 10 seconds. No beating.
6: Pull the instrument cluster. 4 bolts, metric Allen head. There are 2 parts
. The cluster and the cover. Be careful, the glass fell out when I did mine.
I removed the cover, set the glass aside, then carefully pulled the cluster up a
nd out. Be careful of the emergency flasher lever. You will have to unplug 2 e
lectrical connections, one on each side. Also, you will need to unplug the spee
dometer cable. Mine just clipped on. Yours might be screwed on.
7: Working from the glove box side, you should be able to release the cable bun
dle from the dash. It's probably just held on by rubber covered, flexible wire
wraps. Unplug the buzzer/beeper. It's just about dead center of the dash, righ
t above the radio area. Unplug the dimmer rheostat.
8: OK, now.... slowly pull the dash up and out. Go slow and check that you did
n't miss anything.

9: OK, now that the dash is out, you can see the wiper motor and linkage. Remo
ve the wiper arms.
10: Now I pulled the wiper motor. 4 bolts, 2 on top, 2 on the bottom. You mig
ht have move the wipers to give you some slack on the inside. Move things aroun
d until you can pull the motor out a bit. While you can remove the nut, then pu
ll the arm from the wiper motor shaft, I say don't. Leaving the arm on, keeps t
he arm in 'time' with the motor. Instead, take a screw driver and slip it betwe
en the motor arm and the linkage. Get as close to the ball and socket as possib
le. Pry / twist the socket off the ball. I popped the other end of the arm off
the right hand wiper shaft as well. The linkage should slide out the center ho
le.
11: Fix the problem. OK, with my truck, the motor arm ball was still nice and
snug inside the socket in the linkage. But the socket wasn't staying in the lin
kage. I think the sockets are heat pressed into the linkage at the factory. My
socket had broken the plastic that held the socket in the arm. This let the so
cket pop out of the linkage each time the arm cycled around. I happened to have
a bunch of wiper sockets from the HELP! line of parts found at Kragen. None fi
t. I think you might be able to heat up the linkage and then melt another socke
t in place, but I didn't have any propane at the time. Instead, I cleaned every
thing up real well with carb cleaner, then roughened them up with sandpaper, the
n cleaned them again and glued things together. I used a 30 minute, 2-part epox
y glue. I did 4 thin layers, instead of 1 thick one. Once the glue dried, I sa
nded the rough spots down, and made sure the was plenty of clearance when runnin
g. I put a small amount of grease back in each socket and slid the linkage back
in. I used a small (6 inch) set up slip joint pliers to pop the socket back on
to the ball in the center. While I had the motor out, I pulled the back cover o
ff the gear box, and added a small amount of new grease to the worm gear assembl
y. I put the motor back up in place and snapped the other socket onto the ball.
Then I re-installed the screws that hold the motor in place. I plugged the mo
tor back in, and turned the key to run. I turned the wiper on to make sure ever
ything was working nicely. Please keep fingers out of the rotating machinery.
I left it running, and then, from the outside, I added a few drop of lubricant t
o the wiper arm shafts. It only took a couple of drops, but as the lube worked
it ways down the shaft, I could hear the motor speeding up and not having to wor
k as hard.... I let the wipers run for about 10 minutes, and lubed the shafts a
couple of times. Turn off wipers.
12: Make sure wiper motor screws are tight and start re-assembly.
13: The typical...... assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly. ::)
14: If you haven't done any of the extra stuff I mention below, the dash should
be able to go back in pretty easily. Go slow, watch the heater control lever,
and make sure the electrical bundle is on top of the lower glove box before you
start tightening bolts.
15: Don't tighten bolts as you go. Instead, just get them started. Once they'
re all in, then go back and tighten them.