Selena

Gomez
Hotter
Than Ever

Renegade
Chic
Detroits
Street Scene
Suits Gone
Wild
The Haircut
Thats All
The Buzz

American
Dreams
Fashions New Freedom

W MARCH

254
Liked by
Many
Photograph by Steven Klein
Louis Vuitton top and bra; Miu Miu tiara.
Beauty note: Enjoy some fringe benefits
with Marc Jacobs Beauty Feather Noir
Ultra-Skinny Lash-Discovery Mascara. Styled
by Patti Wilson. For stores, prices, and more, go
to Wmag.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.

288 HELLA FRESH

Fashion +
Features

Hitting the streets of Detroit

with the citys most stylish citizens.
Photographs by Jamie Hawkesworth
300 DRESSED TO THE 90s

Ohanded glamour makes a comeback.

Photographs by Mario Sorrenti

254 LIKED BY MANY

Selena Gomez grows up.

By David Amsden
Photographs by Steven Klein
270

58

wmag.com

FREE SPIRITS
Revisiting the style revolutionaries
who knew no fashion boundaries.
Photographs by Inez and Vinoodh

314

U.S.A. ALL THE WAY

he classic American brand Coach is
celebrating its 75th anniversaryand a
cool makeover from its British creative
director, Stuart Vevers.
By Holly Brubach
Photographs by Chris Colls

320 FUNNY BUSINESS

Prints and patterns are your strong

suits this season.
Photographs by Patrick Demarchelier
328 HIGH AND ARTY

A longtime vacation destination for

the jetset, Aspen is also a pinnacle of
the art world.
By Rob Haskell
Photographs by Matthias Vriens-McGrath
338 BLURRED LINES

Daring eveningwear for girls, boys, and

everyone in between.
Photographs by Alasdair McLellan

Continued on page 74

W MARCH

338
Blurred
Lines
Photograph by
Alasdair McLellan

Whats Hot

Whos Next
143
151

186
From left: Alexander Wang
bustier; Loewe skirt. Dior
Homme pants; Thomas Pink
belt. Styled by Edward
Enninful. For stores, prices,
and more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.

74

wmag.com

188

194

STAND-UP ACTS: hese actresses are

no wallowers.
WE LOVE: Buzz cuts, monograms, and
pleats galoreW s favorites from the
spring runways.
A new generation discovers 90s fashion
and pop culture.
Aquazzura founders Edgardo Osorio
and Ricardo DAlmeida Figueiredo open
up their stunning 15th-century
Florentine palazzo.
Xin Li, a former basketball player and
model, is Chinas preeminent art
ambassador.

A bag that earns its stripes.

Smoldering looks that give the cold
shoulder.
214 When it comes to accessories, its all
white now.
218 FASHION NEWS: Jeweler Jennifer
Fisher celebrates 10 years with colorful
baubles, Rodarte pairs with & Other
Stories on a Los Angelesinspired line,
and more.
222 Young fashion designers nd creative
expansion in home collections.
224 FAST AND CHIC: The essential white
shirt is anything but basic.

211
212
199
202
208
238

248

Musician A$AP Rocky collaborates on a

capsule collection with Guess.
Public relations guru Matthew Freuds
art-lled bachelor pad.
Photographer Chuck Grant branches
out with her rst book.
Vintage- and contemporary-design
dealer Paul Johnson seeks out the
unlovedand unexpected.
ON SET: Behind the scenes of the
Coen brothers celeb-packed comedy
Hail, Caesar!

Continued on page 84

W MARCH

320
Funny
Business
Photograph by
Patrick Demarchelier

Cover
Departments
Hilfiger Collection
jacket, vest, and pants;
Marieclaire St John shirt;
Faraone Mennella
earrings and bracelet;
Munnu the Gem Palace
rings; Fendi sandals. Styled
by Giovanna Battaglia.

84

wmag.com

Beauty
230 Braids and plaits are a fresh option

for spring.
234 JANES ADDICTION: What Ws
Beauty Director, Jane Larkworthy, is
hooked on now.

118

EDITORS LETTER

124

MOST WANTED

132

GIOS JOURNAL

134

CULTURAL CALENDAR

354 PARTY PEOPLE

356 INSPIRATION EQUATION

Photograph by Steven Klein. Styled by Patti

Wilson. Hair by Shon for Bed Head by Tigi at
Julian Watson Agency; makeup by Kabuki for
Dior at Kabukimagic; manicure by Marisa
Carmichael for Formula X for Sephora. Set
design by David White at Streeters. Fashion:
Louis Vuitton top and bra; Miu Miu tiara. Beauty:
Nars Velvet Matte Skin Tint SPF 30 in St. Moritz,
Brow Gel in Kinshasa, Eye Paint in Baalbek,
Bronzing Powder in Laguna, Audacious Lipstick
in Raquel. For stores, prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.

WHATS NEW ON WMAG.COM

ICE, ICE BABY

wmag.com/fashion

SELENAS GOT STYLE

video.wmagazine.com

Anything that comes out of Selena Gomezs mouth

is pretty much guaranteed to go viral. Hear what
the most popular girl in America (take that, Kim!)
has to say about working with Steven Klein on this
issues cover story (Liked by Many, page 254).

GIO
TRACKER
wmag.com/fashion

W contributing editor Giovanna

Battaglia is always on the go. See
an extended version of her March
2016 column (Gios Journal,
page 132), including her lavish
trip to Art Basel Miami Beach for
the W magazine and Roberto
Cavalli party at the Rubell
Family Collection, on Wmag.com.

A$AP,
ASAP!
video.wmagazine.com

Encounter fashions favorite

rapper, A$AP Rocky, with
model Mia Kang (above
and right) on the set of
Throwback Jam (page
199), in a behind-the-scenes
video by the photographer
Chad Pitman.

DIGITAL EDITIONS
wmag.com/services/tablet

W is available on your favorite e-reader.

Download current issues of the
magazine for Kindle Fire, Nook Tablet,
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W IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT 2016 COND NAST. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 45, NO. 2. W (ISSN 0162-9115) is published monthly (except for combined
issues in December/January and June/July) by Cond Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: Cond Nast, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive
Oicer; Robert A. Sauerberg, Jr., President; David E. Geithner, Chief Financial Oicer. Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Oicer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing oices. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885RT0001. POSTMASTER: SEND ALL UAA TO CFS (SEE DMM 507.1.5.2); NON-POSTAL AND MILITARY FACILITIES: send address corrections to W Magazine, PO Box 3711, Boone IA 50037-0711. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS,
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advise us at P.O. Box 37711, Boone, IA 50037-0711 or call 800-289-0390. W IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT
NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD
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102

wmag.com

SELENAS GOT STYLE: TOMMY MOORE; GOMEZ WEARS MARC JACOBS CARDIGAN; DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH: HORACIO SALINAS, STYLED BY CLAUDIA MATA; FROM TOP: SOLANGE AZAGURY-PARTRIDGE EARRINGS; BELPERRON EARCLIPS. GIO TRACKER: BFA; A$AP,
ASAP!: CHAD PITMAN; A$AP ROCKY WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY T-SHIRT AND OVERALLS. MIA KANG WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET AND OVERALLS. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

Diamond jewelry is classic

but lately designers
have been giving it an edge,
as in these earrings by
Solange Azagury-Partridge
and Belperron (from top) .
Discover more exciting
ways to wear diamonds on
Wmag.com.

WHATS NEW ON WMAG.COM

Clockwise, from top, left: Images taken

for W magazine and Wmag.com by
the photographers Felix Kim, Ed
Singleton, Victoria Stevens, Matthew
Priestley, Jamie Hawkesworth, Richie
Talboy, Harry E. Carr, Hawkesworth,
Talboy, Isabel Martinez, David Urbanke,
Priestley, Carr, Martinez, Boo George,
and Luca Khouri.

The Shot
W MAGAZINE IS ON THE
LOOKOUT FOR THE NEXT
BIG NAME IN FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY.
At W magazine, we make it a point to bring
you the work of industry hotshots like Steven
Meisel, Steven Klein, Craig McDean, and Inez
and Vinoodh. But we also always have our eye
out for whos next. Take Jamie Hawkesworth, for
example, who was featured in Ws April 2014
issue and went on to work with Loewe and Miu
Miu. Or Boo George, who won The Shot in
2013 and has since contributed to W and other
major fashion magazines. Do you think you
have what it takes to be a W photographer?
Visit Wmag.com/the-shot for details on how
to submit your work to The Shot, our talent
search, this year sponsored by Hugo Boss.

wmag.com

107

STEFANO TONCHI
Editor in Chief
ARMAND LIMNANDER
Executive Editor

LYNN HIRSCHBERG
Editor at Large

JANE LARKWORTHY
Beauty Director

ALIX BROWNE
Features Director

EDWARD ENNINFUL
Fashion and Style Director
RICKIE DE SOLE
Fashion Market and Accessories Director

JOHAN SVENSSON
Design Director

DIANE SOLWAY
Arts and Culture Director

CAROLINE WOLFF
Photography Director

FASHION & BEAUTY

FEATURES
JENNY COMITA
Senior Features Editor at Large
VANESSA LAWRENCE
Features Writer

REGAN A. SOLMO
Executive Managing Editor

CLAUDIA MATA
Jewelry and Accessories Director
SANDRA BALLENTINE
Beauty Editor at Large

KARIN NELSON
Features Editor

FAN ZHONG
Associate Editor

ART & PHOTO

GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA
Contributing Fashion Editor

GIANLUCA LONGO
Contributing European Editor

CAROLINE GROSSO Fashion Market and Digital Fashion Editor

NORA MILCH Accessories Editor
NATASHA CLARK Fashion Credits Editor
TINA HUYNH Associate Jewelry Editor SAM WALKER Associate Accessories Editor
RYANN FOULKE Assistant Fashion Editor SARAH ZENDEJAS Assistant Fashion and Market Editor
MIA ADORANTE Assistant Beauty Editor
CHRYSTIN BUNION Fashion Assistant

DIGITAL

ERIN SIMON
Bookings Director

SAM MILNER
Senior Market Editor and Manager

ESM REN
Senior Photo Editor

LINA WAHLGREN
Art Director

TIFFANIE GRAHAM
Photo Research Editor

HANNA VARADY
Senior Designer

JESSY PRICE
Associate Photo Editor
BIEL PARKLEE
Assistant Bookings Editor

OPERATIONS

SARAH LEON
Digital Director

ERIK MAZA
Digital Features Director

EMILIA PETRARCA
Associate Digital Editor

SAMANTHA
ANDRIANO
Social Media Manager

EVENTS & PR

ROSEANN MARULLI
Associate Managing Editor

AUDRA ASENCIO
Special Projects Director

JENNIFER MURRAY
Production Director

ROBIN AIGNER
Copy Chief

KIRSTEN ROHRS SCHMITT

Research Chief

KELLY McDONOUGH
Production Manager

COREY SABOURIN
Copy Editor

KRISTIN AUBLE
Research Editor

ADRIANA STAN
Public Relations Director

SHARLYN PIERRE
Researcher
FRANCINE SCHORE Business Manager
GILLIAN SAGANSKY Associate to the Editor in Chief/Assistant Writer

LUCY KRIZ
Publisher, Chief Revenue Officer
RISA ARONSON
Associate Publisher

DOAK SERGENT
Associate Publisher, Marketing and Head of Brand Development

TANYA AMINI
Advertising Director
LILY GIVONI
Executive Director, Fashion

RICHIE GRIN
Luxury Director

LAUREN KAMEN
Director, Digital Sales and Operations

LAUREN REGINA PERRY

Retail and Non-Endemic Director

SASHA KRUG
Digital Manager
MILAN
LAURA BOTTA
Fashion/Luxury Director
39.02.655.84.221
GIULIA GIACOBELLI
Sales Assistant

PARIS
ELIZABETH HAYNES
Luxury Director, Europe
33.1.4411.7815
LAURENCE GUERINET
Sales Assistant

ROBERT ROWE
International Advertising Director

RAYLENE SALTHOUSE
Executive Director, Beauty

ALY BORI
Digital Campaign Analyst

WEST COAST
ALLISON JOYCE
Western Director
323.965.3549
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LINDA JOSEPH
Midwest Director
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Dodd Media Sales
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CELIA CHEN Executive Director, Partnerships and Events HEATHER H. GUMBLEY Executive Director, Integrated Marketing RACHEL SWANSON Executive Director, Marketing and Research
ANTHONY CANDELA Associate Director, Integrated Marketing MARLEY ISRAEL Associate Art Director ALISON JAVORA Integrated Marketing Director JASON RAVILLE Creative Director
ALEXA AGUGLIARO Associate Manager, Integrated Marketing MICHELLE BONDARCHUK Special Events Manager NATASHA BULLARD Senior Marketing Research Manager
CHRISTINA FERNANDES Marketing and Research Associate ABBY SILVERMAN Designer
BUSINESS
CERENE C. JORDAN Director of Finance and Business Operations JILL CAREY Business Director
LAURA LAFON Executive Assistant to the Publisher, Chief Revenue Officer ARADITH PEIKIN Sales Coordinator

KALLEN BEIER, ANDREW SULZER Sales Assistants

PUBLISHED BY COND NAST

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Cond Nast is a global media company producing premium content for more than 263 million consumers in 30 markets.
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For reprints, please e-mail reprints@condenast.com or call Wrights Media, 877.652.5295. For reuse permissions, please e-mail cncollection@condenast.com or call 800.897.8666.

112 WMAG.COM

Stars and Stripes

ON MY WAY TO THE GOLDEN GLOBE AWARDS IN LOS ANGELES

Selena Gomez and Tonchi

on set (top, left) and
inspiration for our American
issue (clockwise, from top,
middle): Leo Villareals Flag,
2008; Dan Colens Silent
Treatment, 2010; Cady
Nolands This Piece Has No
Title Yet, 1989; Glenn Ligons
Rckenfigur, 2009; Sara
Rahbars Flag #10, 2008.

118

wmag.com

a few weeks ago, as I waited in traffic to get through the militarylike security checks, my car was mobbed. On one side, people were
waving pro-life signs, preaching their love of Jesus and warning
anyone who would listen about the sinfulness of the nominated
films. On the other side, Hollywood fans, many of them teenagers
armed with their standard-issue iPhones, were proclaiming their
adoration to the rather different gods and goddesses who were
about to step onto the red carpet.
Freedom can be an incredibly abstract concept, but I thought
this episode reflected a simple and tangible reality: Everyone was
voicing his or her beliefs. America is not a perfect place, and the
American Dreamwhichever version of it you choose to believe inis not a reality for most. Still, I feel very lucky to live
in a time and place in which Im able to choose who I want to be
and what I want to believe in.
At the risk of sounding pretentious in a politically charged year,
for our March issue we decided to celebrate a renewed sense of
American optimism. A welcome by-product of the digital revolution is that young people are experimenting with identity and
image in order to stand out rather than fit in. Notions of gender,
religion, status, and self-presentation are all suddenly up for grabs.
No one embodies this spirit of freedom better than our cover
star, Selena Gomez (Liked by Many, page 254). Her transformation from a one-note Disney sweetheart into a multifaceted
woman mirrors the emotional voyage of a whole generation of
young Americans trying to steer clear of stereotypes. In her candid interview with the writer David Amsden, Gomez talks about
her much-scrutinized relationship with Justin Bieber, the pitfalls
of growing up famous, and her highly strategic use of social media.
Redefining American values in a globalized world is the challenge that Stuart Vevers has gamely embraced as the creative
director of Coach, one of the most beloved American accessories

brands, which is making a transition to full-fledged fashion house

(U.S.A. All the Way, page 314). Holly Brubach met Vevers over
several weeks and discovered that the British designer isnt one
to simply play by the book. Im not interested in making a lesser
version of European luxury, he told her. Maybe the old codes
arent relevant anymore.
That healthy feeling of defiance also permeates our fashion
portfolios. Inez and Vinoodh paid tribute to a group of chic
women who helped move the fashion needle (Free Spirits, page
270); Mario Sorrenti explored a freewheeling mix-and-match
type of glamour thats making a serious comeback (Dressed to
the 90s, page 300); Jamie Hawkesworth traveled to Detroit to
document the citys street-style scene (Hella Fresh, page 288);
and Matthias Vriens-McGrath captured an entirely different kind
of clotheshorse in Aspen (High and Arty, page 328). Whats
striking about these stories is how differentand yet how coherentthey all feel. The spirit of America, indeed.

S T, Editor in Chief

GOMEZ AND TONCHI: COURTESY OF TONCHI; FLAG: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/COURTESY OF GERING & LOPEZ GALLERY, NEW YORK; SILENT TREATMENT: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/GAGOSIAN
GALLERY; THIS PIECE HAS NO TITLE YET: RUBELL FAMILY COLLECTION; RUCKENFIGUR: RONALD AMSTUTZ/WHITNEY MUSEUM OF AMERICAN ART; FLAG #10: COURTESY OF SAATCHI GALLERY

EDITORS LETTER

MOST WANTED
3
1

Slip of
a Thing

WHATS ON OUR WISH

LIST THIS MONTH.

The slip dress

has long been a
romantic option
for evening. But
I love the idea
of wearing one in
a more casual
wayas do many
designers this
season. Its a far
more versatile
piece than you
might think.
Rickie
De Sole
Fashion Market and

Accessories Director

1. Alexander Wang slip dress, $2,495, bomber jacket, $950, earrings, $295,
and sneakers, $395, alexanderwang.com; Vhernier ring, $1,370, Vhernier,
Beverly Hills, 310.273.2444. 2. CVC Stones necklace, $3,200, barneys.com.
3. Josie Natori gown, $550, Neiman Marcus, 888.888.4757. 4. IRO sneakers,
$400, iroparis.com. 5. Loewe bag, $2,690, Ikram, Chicago, 312.587.1000.

124

wmag.com

Photograph by SIMON ROBERTS EELES Styled by PATRICK MACKIE

HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY MAKKY P FOR DIOR AT STREETERS; MANICURE BY ERI HANDA FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; SET DESIGN BY TODD WIGGINS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODEL: HEDVIG PALM AT
NEXT MODEL MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: NIC ONG; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KRIS SHACOCHIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: YURIKO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JUSTIN DAVIS; 2, 3, 4, 5: GORMAN STUDIO, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON

MOST WANTED

7
8

6. HEARTS ON FIRE EARRINGS

$3,850, heartsonfire.com

These 18k gold and diamond danglers are

incredibly delicate, but they somehow still
manage to make a bold statement.
Tina Huynh
Associate Jewelry Editor
7. LEX POTT VASES
$130$395, suiteny.com

The Dutch designers oxidized vessels

in brass, aluminum, copper, and steel are
equal parts art and science project.
Karin Nelson
Features Editor
8. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
SLIP DRESS
$2,895, Bergdorf Goodman, New York,
212.753.7300

9
10

Does an evening look get any easier or

more elegant than this?
Sam Walker
Associate Accessories Editor
9. BEAU: THAT THING REALITY

Heather Golden and Emma Rose Jenney,

who perform under the name Beau, grew
up together in New York. Their debut pop
album combines East Coast angst with
West Coast languor.
Fan Zhong
Associate Editor

6, 11: GORMAN STUDIO; 9: COURTESY OF BEAU; 7, 10, 12, 13: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; 8: INDIGITAL

10. PROENZA SCHOULER BAG

$1,450, Proenza Schouler, New York,
212.420.7300

12
11

Despite everything thats going on with

this purse, its still a great basic that will
work with almost any outfit.
Sam Milner
Senior Market Editor and Manager
11. GIVENCHY BLUSH COMPACT
$57, sephora.com

This embossed Poudre Lumire Originelle in dusty rose is almost too beautiful
to use.
Jane Larkworthy
Beauty Director
12. EQUIPMENT SWEATER
$218, equipmentfr.com

I cant wait to shed my winter layers

and usher in spring with a dose of petal
pink cashmere.
Caroline Grosso
Market Editor
13. MIU MIU SHOES
$850, miumiu.com

I love how Miuccia Prada has given the

classic ballet slipper a bit of quirkiness.
Nora Milch
Accessories Editor

13

wmag.com

129

GIOS JOURNAL

This Jason Rhoades work

[below], at the Margulies
Collection in Miami, reminds
me of the circuit board of
a computerbut one thats
psychoactive.

I discovered this leather

killer whale [above],
by Porky Hefer, at the
Southern Guild gallery
booth at the Design
Miami fair. Wouldnt it
make a great oice chair
for a little fish like
myself? I would denitely
get my way at meetings.

The Raspoutine
and Perrier-Jout
party in the
penthouse of the
Faena hotel
during Art Basel
Miami Beach was
so packed, I made
my own VIP room
in the shower.
My friends Erin
Hazelton and
Alexander Werz
[left] joined me.
We were denitely
the freshest
guests there.

FOR WS GLAMOROUS
GLOBE-TROTTER,
GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA,
ITS A FAB, FAB WORLD.
Designer Mary
Katrantzou had the
perfect dress for the Art
Basel Miami Beach fair
in her resort collection
its like wearing a Pantone
palette. And, of course,
it matched this William
Cordova work [above,
center]. Posing in front
of it, I felt like I became
part of the painting!

I saw the work

of the artists G+G
at the Milan design
store Rossana
Orlandi. This piece
[right] shows
the Beagle Boys
stealing a fake
miniature Andy
Warhol painting.

132

wmag.com

While on break
from a shoot in Los
Angeles, I realized
my Adidas Originals
sneakers matched
the Frank Gehry
designed Walt Disney
Concert Hall [left].

For my moms
birthday, my
friend Edoardo
Marchiori
made a Barbie
in her likeness
[left]down to
her necklace!

How cool is the seating in the BP Hall in the Walt Disney

Concert Hall? Talk about sitting pretty!

IMAGES COURTESY OF GIOVANNA BATTAGLIA

High Art

I grew up loving The

Simpsons, so I adore
this Alex Da Corte work
[left] from Gi Marconi
gallery at Art Basel
Miami Beach.

CULTURAL CALENDAR

Clockwise, from top, left:

Baby Bjrn ballgown
(with matching baby
carrier), fall 1998; Isaac
Mizrahi with models at his
spring 1997 show; a look
from the Cake collection,
fall 2011; Mizrahi, 19, in
Fame, wearing a costume
he designed; a poster for
the documentary that
made him a star, 1995;
a sketch for the Unhapi
coat, fall 2009.

Spring Awakening
ARTS AND CULTURE DIRECTOR
DIANE SOLWAYS MUSTS FOR MARCH.

Well before social media and reality TV gave us access to fashions

inner sanctums, Isaac Mizrahi starred in the 1995 cult documentary
Unzipped, which offered an uncensored look at the life of a young
designer whose candor and wit set the bar for all the fashion movies
that followed. There wasnt anything chic about lm crews, he says
of the time before designers became celebrities. Nobody knew
about you. You were a person who had integrity, your clothes were
expensive, and you receded. With his signature label, which lasted
from 1987 to 1998, Mizrahi introduced handbags worn as hats,
sneakers with ballgowns, and Star of David belts; he then pioneered
high-low fever via his collaborations with Target and QVC. He also
made forays into costume design and TV, serving as a judge on Project
Runway All Stars, guest-starring on Sex and the City, and hosting the
QVC show Isaac Mizrahi Live! His outsize personality and creative
bustle are the subject of the exhibition Isaac Mizrahi: An Unruly History
(March 18 through August 7), at the Jewish Museum, in New York.
I loathe nostalgia, says Mizrahi, who grew up in an Orthodox Jewish
family and attended yeshiva before becoming an acting student at
Manhattans High School of Performing Arts. (He appeared in the
1980 lm Fame, wearing a jester hat hed made.) But theres a way of
telling a story about the past as it relates to the present and future.
Mizrahi is creating three new coats for the exhibition and reevaluating
earlier efforts, such as the 1991 spa collection he showed in a restaurant
in SoHo. There were these down-lled snow-bunny suits with snap
crotches. You could come off the ski slopes, snap off the leggings,
and be in a bikini in, like, seconds, he recalls. There was something
incredibly daring and futuristic about it. That surprised me. Otherwise,
I remember every single thing as if it were yesterday. ..

Pair Game
According to the laws that govern romantic comedies, being single is a crime.
In The Lobster, a dark satire that won the jury prize at Cannes, the writerdirector Yorgos Lanthimos takes this offense to an absurdist extreme. A divorc
(Colin Farrell) checks in to a rehab facility for the uncoupled. If he fails
to nd a mate by the end of his 45-day stay, he will be transformed into an
animal and released into the wild, where the Loners, a clan of outcasts
(including Rachel Weisz), remain militantly single. If you encounter any
problems that you cannot resolve yourselves, you will be assigned children,
the couples are admonished. That usually helps.
From left, scenes from The Lobster:
John C. Reilly, Ben Whishaw, and Colin
Farrell; Farrell and Rachel Weisz.
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MIZRAHI: BEBETO MATTHEWS/ASSOCIATED PRESS; RUNWAY: DAN LECCA; POSTER: MIRAMAX/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION/ALAMY; UNHAPI COAT: RICHARD
GOODBODY/THE JEWISH MUSEUM, NEW YORK; BABY BJORN BALLGOWN: JASON FRANK ROTHENBERG; FAME: COURTESY OF MGM; THE LOBSTER: COURTESY OF ALCHEMY

Le Miz

CULTURAL CALENDAR
Oscar Worthy

Double Vision

Transformers
Back when male action painters like Jackson Pollock dominated
the art world, the artists Louise Bourgeois and Lee Bontecou
were sculpting body fragments with a raw intimacy that was
taboo; soon after, Sheila Hicks and Eva Hesse would bring
textiles and other non-art materials into the studio. Revolution in
the Making: Abstract Sculpture by Women, 19472016 (March 13
through September 4) looks at the largely uncredited role that
female sculptors have played in recent art history. The show
inaugurates the Los Angeles gallery Hauser Wirth & Schimmel
and introduces co-curator Paul Schimmel in the role of gallerist.
On view are works by 100 female artistsa mix of stalwarts like
Bourgeois and Yayoi Kusama, and their heirs, including Karla
Black, who sculpts with cosmetics, and Shinique Smith, whos
making a huge braid knotted with balloons, fashion accessories,
and plush toys. Of course, the craft elements that originally
marginalized many women are commonly used by artists today.
Women, says co-curator Jenni Sorkin, have been at the helm all
along.

Bookshelf
March may go in like a lion and out like
a lamb, but the novels debuting this month
reverse that course, beginning gently
and ending ercely. From the great Irish
novelist Edna OBrien comes The Little
Red Chairs (Little, Brown), a tale set in
a sleepy provincial town that welcomes a
fugitive disguised as a New Age doctor,
who is ultimately tried at the Hague for
mass genocide. (Philip Roth calls it
OBriens masterpiece.) Dana Spiottas
whip-smart Innocents and Others
(Scribner) maps the unexpected conuence
of two rising feminist lmmakers and a
blind movie buff who, posing as a lm
student, seduces Hollywood men over the
phone, simply by listening to them. In
Elizabeth Poliners As Close to Us As
Breathing (Lee Boudreaux Books),
set in 1948, a tragedy incites a generation
of strife for a Jewish family summering
at the Connecticut shore. And in
Catherine Lowells winking romp, The
Madwoman Upstairs (Touchstone),
the last remaining Bront heir sets off on
a modern-day literary treasure hunt
to nd the familys rumored secret estate,
an adventure that vividly hurtles toward
the nal page.

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From top: Robert

Mapplethorpes Poppy,
1988; Lisa Lyon; 1981,
and Lisa Lyon, 1982.

Whether photographing naked black men,

flowers, or the sadomasochistic scenarios
in which he often participated, Robert
Mapplethorpe, who died from AIDS in 1989,
invariably elevated his disparate subject
matter to the realm of high art. Now, some
25 years after a Mapplethorpe exhibition
that included graphic sexual images
incited criminal-obscenity charges against
Cincinnatis Contemporary Arts Center,
the J. Paul Getty Museum and the Los
Angeles County Museum of Art are
co-presenting Robert Mapplethorpe: The
Perfect Medium. The show highlights a trove
of editioned prints and archival artworks
that the institutions jointly acquired in
2011. The Getty portion (March 15 through
July 31) focuses on Mapplethorpes
Apollonian sidehis portraiture and
studio practice, along with his interest in
classicism and art history. His Dionysian
side will be showcased at LACMA
(March 20 through July 31) and includes his
explorations of the sexual underground,
as well as the permeable boundary between
his art and his life. Mapplethorpe, says
LACMA curator Britt Salvesen, liked the
provocation of the polished and the
rough, but she notes that the artist, known
for his refined composition and lighting,
ultimately challenged us to see his
coherent vision. .

GROUP OF ARCHITECTURAL WORKS: JKA PHOTOGRAPHY/SAN JOSE MUSEUM OF ART/ESTATE OF RUTH ASAWA; UNTITLED (THE WEDGES): CHRISTOPHER BURKE/THE EASTON FOUNDATION;
OSCAR DE LA RENTA LOOK: GUY MARINEAU; LISA LYON, 1981, LISA LYON, 1982, AND POPPY: COURTESY OF THE ROBERT MAPPLETHORPE FOUNDATION; BOOKS: TIM HOUT

From left: Ruth

Asawas Group
of Architectural
Works, 1955
1965; Louise
Bourgeoiss
Untitled (The
Wedges), 1950.

Few in fashion are as universally adored as

Oscar de la Renta, whose house had just reached
its 50-year milestone when the celebrated
Dominican-American designer passed away in
2014, at 82. A gentleman till the end, de la
Renta was every bit as elegant as his shapely
silhouettes, and his confections were cherished
by gamines and grannies, socialites and
Hollywood heavies, drag queens and rst ladies
(of both political persuasions). His fans can
get a closer look at the couturiers charmed life
and career in the rst exhibition devoted to
his work (March 12 through May 30), at the
de Young Museum, in San Francisco. Oscar
de la Renta, curated by Andr Leon Talley,
celebrates the breadth of his oeuvreroughly
130 looks that span de la Rentas early years
at Balenciaga and Lanvin (right, a couture
gown for Pierre Balmain, fall 1996), through
to the red-carpet creations that made him
synonymous with modern glamour and
gracious living.

WHOS NEXT

Debicki wears a
Tom Ford dress.

Elizabeth Debicki

Just two months after she graduated from Melbournes

Victorian College of the Arts, in 2010, Elizabeth Debicki found herself reading lines with
Tobey Maguire at the Chateau Marmont in Los Angeles. The room was decorated to resemble a 1920s salon, and she was in full flapper regalia. Baz Luhrmann is a very visual
director, the actress, 25, says of her atypically elaborate audition for his remake of The Great
Gatsby. He needs to see things as they would unfold in his world. Debicki landed the role
of Jordan Baker, Daisy Buchanans haughty confidante, and her career took off.
Growing up in Melbourne, the tall, lithe beauty assiduously studied ballet (her parents
are both former professional dancers), but at 17 she tried acting and shortly thereafter hung
up her pointe shoes. In 2013 she starred opposite Cate Blanchett and Isabelle Huppert in
an Australian theater production of The Maids; more recently, on the big screen, shes saved
lives as a base-camp doctor in Everest, been burned at the stake in Macbeth, and portrayed
a glamorous Nazi sympathizer in The Man From U.N.C.L.E. But Debicki seems most excited about her work in the BBC miniseries The Night Manager, premiering this summer, in
which she plays a social climber entangled in a perverse love triangle. What I loved about
this project is that, for eight episodes, we focused on the female role, she says. Television is
the medium thats allowing womens stories to flourish.

Photographs by MARK SEGAL Styled by SALLY LYNDLEY

Stand-Up
Acts
A FIGHTER, A COOL GIRL,
AND A 6-FOOT-3 BEAUTY.
THESE ACTRESSES ARE
NO WALLFLOWERS.
Continued on page 148

WHOS NEXT

Jacobs wears a
Versace vest.

Elodie Yung

My character
is a sociopath.
She uses
people; shes a
great liar.
But, of course,
I rarely lie,
Yung says.
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Dont mess
with Elodie Yung. The FrenchCambodian actress has been a cop,
a ninja, and a gang lord. Im a black
belt in karate, Yung, 35, says. I
grew up on the outskirts of Paris,
and it was rough.
But as the assassin Elektra, the
comic-book villain she portrays on
the second season of Netflixs series
Marvels Daredevil, she isnt only a
physical threat. Elektra is a proper
sociopath, Yung says. She uses
people; shes a great liar. A pause.
But, of course, I rarely lie.
Before she turned to acting, Yung,
who will also appear in next months
fantasy-adventure feature film Gods
of Egypt, was on track to become a
lawyer. Then a friend convinced her
to go on a commercial audition for
a quick paycheck. I made up a fake
C.V., Yung admits. I pretended to
be an actress whod done stuff before. Wait, that sounds suspiciously
Elektra-like. You got meI was
lying. But Im not very good at it,
because I end up telling the truth.

Yung wears a
Roberto Cavalli
top. For stores,
prices, and more,
go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buymarch-2016.

HAIR BY RAMSELL MARTINEZ FOR ORIBE AT STREETERS; MAKEUP BY DARLENE JACOBS FOR LANCOME AT STARWORKS ARTISTS; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: JUSTIN RUHL; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: SETH GUDMUNSON, ZAC HAHN; FASHION ASSISTANT: MARY OSSOVSKAYA

Gillian Jacobs

After
starring in the NBC hit sitcom
Community, Gillian Jacobs has made
the role of Imposing Young Woman
her specialty. First there was MimiRose Howard, an artist of unnerving
composure, on the HBO show Girls.
Now comes Mickey, one half of the
central relationship in Love, Judd
Apatows upcoming naturalistic
Netflix series. An emotional wreck
with a cool exterior, Mickey has the
kind of blas confidence that strikes
fear in the heart of her eventual paramour, Gus (Paul Rust)and in the
head of the actress herself.
She feels like the type of girl who
always intimidated me, says Jacobs,
33, who doesnt share Mickeys predilection for recreational drug use
and hot boxing. I dont smoke
weed in real life, so my castmates are
teaching me how to do it on the fly.
I tend to play characters who are
much more experienced in those
things than I am.
For Jacobs, who studied at New
Yorks Juilliard, acting has served
as a form of social therapy. It all
started because I had no friends
and was talking to myself on the
playground in elementary school,
she says. The teacher called my
mom and said she should put me
in an extracurricular activity. Acting class was the first time in my
life that I felt understood or accepted.

WE LOVE

Molly Goddard

J.W. Anderson

Simone Rocha

Sandy Liang

Delicate and dainty, pink has

long been associated with
little misses. But at a time in
which gender fluidity is a hot
topic, fashion brands are
reclaiming the colorand
taking it beyond girlishness.
Pink is the hue and cry of the
modern woman: both hard
and soft. Take Molly
Goddards grown-up tutus
and Sandy Liangs skater
gear, Simone Rochas bondage
looks and Louis Vuittons
cyberpunks. Designers today
are even using it as a signifier
for their brandssomething
that caused trouble in pastel
paradise when the New York
boutique owner and designer
Maryam Nassir Zadeh
accused the accessories brand
Mansur Gavriel of stealing
her watermelon suede
mules. Off the runway, young
artists like Petra Collins and
Rebecca Dayan are using
pink to create not only a
recognizable palette but also a
sense of sorority. Their worlds
blur together like watercolors.

We Love
Mansur Gavriel

HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY MAKKY P FOR DIOR AT STREETERS; MANICURE BY ERI HANDA FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; SET DESIGN BY TODD WIGGINS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODEL: ALECIA MORAIS AT THE
SOCIETY MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: NIC ONG; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KRIS SHACOCHIS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: YURIKO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JUSTIN DAVIS; MODEL WEARS J.W. ANDERSON DRESS AND BOOTS. MANSUR
GAVRIEL, MOLLY GODDARD: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS; SANDY LIANG AND BOL: GETTY IMAGES; SIMONE ROCHA: INDIGITAL; GRAVENHORST, GLAUSER, AND BELL: PHIL OH; VENTURINI: INDIGITAL; FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

Rethink Pink

FROM BUZZ CUTS TO BARE BUMS, MICRO PLEATS TO

MONOGRAMS, WE BRING YOU THE MOST MEMORABLE
MOMENTS FROM THE SPRING COLLECTIONS.
Worn Shorn
A new crop of modelswith
shaved dosare challenging
the conventions of beauty,
and landing great gigs as a
result. The Italian twins
Giulia and Camilla Venturini
made a strong debut at
Tods; the Swiss gamine
Tamy Glauser stormed the
runway at Louis Vuitton.
The Brit beauty Ruth Bell
walked Gucci and Versace,
and then, at Acne, she was
joined by the Dutch knockout
Soekie Gravenhorst and the
Sudanese stunner Grace Bol,
who opened the show.

From left: Soekie

Gravenhorst,
Camilla Venturini,
Ruth Bell, Grace
Bol, and Tamy
Glauser.

Photograph by SIMON ROBERTS EELES Styled by PATRICK MACKIE

Louis Vuitton

Lanvin

WE LOVE

Chanel

Marc Jacobs

To celebrate the opening

of its New York boutique,
as well as Riccardo
Tiscis 10th anniversary
at the house, Givenchy
brought its show to the
Big Apple, staging a
waterfront spectacle
(above, top), art-directed
by Marina Abramovic.

Karl Lagerfeld has taken

us to chic supermarkets
and cafs. For spring, he
transported his guests to
an airport, constructing
his Chanel Airlines
terminal (above, bottom)
in Pariss Grand Palais,
complete with Gate No. 5.

230 tons of wood,

assembling the set; three

days dismantling it.

Marc Jacobs took over

the historic Ziegfeld
Theaterthe largest
single-screen movie house
in New York (above,
right)to premiere his
spring collection, which
featured a short film, a
live orchestra, and enough
candy to give the crowd
a major sugar rush.

repurposed from old

barns, were used to build
the set, inspired by
Brazilian favelas.

1,104 seated guests

attended, including Julia
Roberts, Nicki Minaj,
Catherine Deneuve, and
Kim and Kanye West.
1,200 tickets were
offered to the public.
7 performance artists
poetically embraced
one another or held
tree branches.

88 models walked,

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9 days were spent

40 check-in counters
were built, complete
with conveyor belts;
eight had manned
information desks.

95 looks, running the

gamut from plaid suiting
to denim prairie dresses,
were shown.

3 varieties of rolling
suitcases were wheeled
around.

19 models sported
backward baseball caps.

61 models, including Beth

Ditto, walked from the red
carpet on the street outside
into the theater and then
up to the screening room in
exuberant, Americanainspired looks.

Brand Awareness
Love Loewe? Vying for Vuitton?
Now is the time to let the world
know by flaunting their logos.

14 Lesage-embroidered
patches appeared on
the jacket in look No. 57.
3 outfits featured an
image of the opera diva
Maria Callas.

19 ensembles were
accessorized with the new
J,Marc handbag.

beginning with Mariacarla 9 pairs of light-up

Boscono and ending with Teva-style sandals were
trotted out.
Raquel Zimmermann.

were available for the

taking.

1,000 meters of lace

300 limited-edition

were used for the ethereal

collection, which included
couture, ready-to-wear,
and mens wearall in a
strict color palette of black,
white, and ivory.

T-shirts were handed out

to guests.

500 boxes of candy

La Prairie
Erdem,
Philosophy,
and Alexander
McQueen (from
left) were but
a few brands
to put a chic
spin on Laura
Ingallslike
frocks.

CHANEL, GIVENCHY, ERDEM, PHILOSOPHY, AND PRAIRIE: GETTY IMAGES; MARC JACOBS, LANVIN, LOEWE, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, LOUIS VUITTON: INDIGITAL; LOEWE
BAG: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON; VUITTON BAG: LIAM GOODMAN; LANVIN BAG: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; LITTLE HOUSE ON THE PRAIRIE: MPTV IMAGES

Givenchy

Loewe

Three Fashion Extravaganzas,

by the Numbers

SAIN T LA URE NT

AL EXANDER McQUEEN

PRO EN ZA SC H O U L E R

VAL ENT INO

D OLC E & GA B B A N A

CHL O

ST EL L A M cC AR T N E Y

CL INE

GIVE N C H Y

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

OSCA R D E L A R E N T A

AK RIS

ERDEM

RALP H L AUREN COL L ECT ION

BURBERRY PR O R S U M

CALL 800.429.0996, VISIT SAKS.COM OR FIND US ON INSTAGRAM, VINE, YOUTUBE AND SAKSPOV.COM

ETR O

Dior
Lanvin

J.W. Anderson

Winner by a Neck
Whether fashioned from ribbon or
formed from molten metal, arty
chokers have a hold on the season.

Clearly, designers are realizing

that the quickest way to an
editors heart is to make things
personal (above, from top):
Araks launched a customized
pajamas service; Fendi is offering
made-to-order initial bags;
M. Martin sent out show invites
with the recipients portrait
on the envelope; and Frame
monogrammed the napkins at
its dinner party in Paris.

Time for a Trend: Pleats

Early 1900s

1930s40s

1960s

1970s

1990s

2016

Inspired by the light,

airy garments worn by
the ancient Greeks,
Mariano Fortuny, the
Spanish artist and
designer (who is the
subject of Fortuny:
His Life and Work, a
new monograph by
Guillermo De Osma,
from Skira Rizzoli),
created a legendary
hand-pleated silk shift
he dubbed the Delphos.

The French designer

Madame Grs, who
dreamed of being a
sculptor, adopted
fabricnamely, silk
jerseyas her artistic
medium. With it,
she formed delicately
pleated dresses that
contained all the
classical beauty of the
Greco-Roman period.

Referred to as an
architect of fashion,
the Roman designer
Roberto Capucci
experimented with
techniques and
materials to create
wildly colorful and
sculptural pleated
gowns that, in many
cases, were not
meant to be worn.

Though often
compared to Fortunys
masterpieces, Mary
McFaddens signature
pleated dresses had
one main difference:
Mariithe synthetic
charmeuse she used.
It was woven in
Australia, dyed in
Japan, and pleated
in the United States.
The result? Long,
fluid folds that no
amount of ironing
could ever flatten.

Wanting to offer
accessible kimonolike clothing, the
Japanese designer
Issey Miyake
launched Pleats
Please in 1993. Made
from a cuttingedge polyester, his
machine-washable
garments proved
popular with
ease-seeking,
style-driven women
like the fashion
critic Suzy Menkes.

Seen at Proenza
Schouler, Gucci,
Sacai, Stella
McCartney, and
Adam Lippes
to name but a
fewmicro pleats
are having a serious
renaissance for
spring. But leave
it to Miyake to
continue to innovate:
He introduced a
fabric baking
technique that
results in bouncy,
curvilinear folds.

Adam Lippes

Gucci

ILLUSTRATION BY LOVISA BURFITT; ARAKS PAJAMAS: GORMAN STUDIO, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON; M. MARTIN INVITATIONS: TIM HOUT; FENDI BAG, FRAME PLACE SETTING, AND ADAM LIPPES: COURTESY OF DESIGNER; FORTUNY:
COURTESY OF RIZZOLI; MADAME GRES AND GUCCI: GETTY IMAGES; ROBERTO CAPUCCI: MASSIMO LISTRI/CORBIS; MARY MCFADDEN: DEBORAH TURBEVILLE; ISSEY MIYAKE: COURTESY OF ISSEY MIYAKE LONDON PRESS OFFICE

Its So Me

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171

WE LOVE
ac
ne
Eckhaus Latta

zo

ar

air

n
ce

od

by

co d e v i n

ho

pa

When it comes
to glasses,
designers
are venturing
into some
futuristic
territory.

Vetements

Butt
Seriously

Hood by Air

b
co r a a n n e

Crazy
Eyes

Aphrodite is very
much back in
fashion this season.

InstaGran

Balenciaga

Bea Arthur
and her
Golden Girls
crew (below)
are fashions
newest muses.

Put a messy twist on the

traditional updo. As seen (from
left) at Ann Demeulemeester,
Tory Burch, Bottega Veneta, and
Rag & Bone.

172

wmag.com

Gucci

Chlo

ACNE, HOOD BY AIR GLASSES, MARCO DE VINCENZO, PACO RABANNE, APHRODITE, ECKHAUS LATTA, VALENTINO, BALENCIAGA, THE
GOLDEN GIRLS, AND JUNYA WATANABE: GETTY IMAGES; HOOD BY AIR RUNWAY: COURTESY OF FASHION TO MAX; ROCHAS: COURTESY OF
THE DESIGNER; GUCCI AND CHLOE: INDIGITAL; VETEMENTS: PIERRE-ANGE CARLOTTI; ILLUSTRATION BY HIROSHI TANABE

What Knot to Do?

Valentino

Junya Watanabe

The continent, as a
whole, offered designers
a wealth of inspiration
this season. And while
Valentino and Junya
Watanabe were taken
to task for their literal
references, they made
up for the offense
with arresting clothes.

Rochas

Out of Africa

Everything Goes!

Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane

Calvin Klein Collection

Marc Jacobs

WE LOVE

The Hole Story

A composite of some of
the most extreme beauty
looks: hair by the Blonds,
eyebrows by Maison
Margiela, eyes by Manish
Arora, nose by Vivienne
Westwood, cheeks by
Olympia Le-Tan, lips
by Undercover. Do not
try this at home.

While Hedi Slimane has long

looked to Courtney Love for
inspiration, it seems a slew of other
designers had images of the former
Hole frontwomanspecifically,
those of her in a slip dress, smudged
lips, and a tiara at Vanity Fairs
1995 Oscar afterpartypinned
to their mood boards.

Added
Bonus
A number of
brands expanded
their offerings,
debuting shoe
and/or handbag
collections.

pet
e
rp

tto
ilo

em

simon miller

mugler

Roberto Cavalli

Emilio Pucci

DKNY

erd

The Changing of the Guards

ut

hi

er

wmag.com

nd
va

174

ale
xa

re

Three legendary brands joined fashions continual

game of musical chairs: DKNY replaced Donna
Karan with Public Schools Dao-Yi Chow and
Maxwell Osborne (inset, left); Roberto Cavalli
brought in Peter Dundas (inset, right), after its
namesake designer stepped down last year; and
Emilio Pucci subsequently filled the position
vacated by Dundas with Massimo Giorgetti (inset,
center), of the emerging label MSGM. We know, its
all a bit confusingas was the clothing at times.
Hopefully, theyre just getting warmed up.

ILLUSTRATION BY ULI KNORZER; MUGLER: DYLAN LONG; ALL OTHER ACCESSORIES: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY RENATE LINDLAR; CHOW AND OSBORNE, LOVE, CALVIN KLEIN,
DUNDAS, SAINT LAURENT, ROBERTO CAVALLI, DKNY, AND EMILIO PUCCI: GETTY IMAGES; MARC JACOBS: INDIGITAL; GIORGETTI: NEW PRESS/SPLASH NEWS/CORBIS

lpozo
de

WE LOVE

Next in Line

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Phelan
Amanda Phelan, 27 (above),
was a knitwear designer
for Alexander Wang before
launching her own label a year
ago. Much like her former
boss, she is fascinated with
technical innovation. Her debut
collection, which she presented
during New York Fashion
Week via a four-woman dance
performance, ventured into
otherworldly terrain: Blue silk
pieces looked like liquid metal,
and sweatshirt-style tops and
minis with a 3-D bubble inlay
resembled a space-age version
of Grandmas popcorn sweaters.
My design is process-driven,
says Phelan, whose love affair
with machinery began after
she transferred from painting
into the textile department at
the Rhode Island School of
Design. Once Im happy with
a stitch, a vision of structure
and drape emerges.

Rochas

No, those werent

rodents scuttling down
the spring runways
just some of the many
animal-inspired shoes.

Undercover

Creature
Feetures

Alexander McQueen

Area
For us, it is important to do
things that are simple but that
also have a signature, says
Piotrek Panszczyk, 29, who
started Area three years ago
with fellow Parsons School of
Design grad Beckett Fogg, 27
(above, from left). To that end,
the pair employ a patented
fabric process: All of Areas
materials bear a Braille-like
embossment, created by an
80-year-old machine thats more
commonly used on leather than
fabric. And while their textural
T-shirts are their best-sellers,
the designers went in a dressier
direction for spring, with
luxurious silks and crepes cut in
disco shapes and covered with
their signature bubbles, glossy
makeup prints (inspired by old
Irving Penn ads), and 1920s
graphics spelling out doll face,
play time, and high anxiety.

Comeforbreakfast
Antonio Romano, 33, and
Francesco Alagna, 36 (above,
from left), of the unisex Italian
brand Comeforbreakfast,
met after Romano won the
Camera Nazionale della Moda
Italiana Next Generation prize,
in 2009. He had designed a
collection inspired by the small
parts of airplane engines,
Alagna recalls. The two quickly
decided to go into business
together; the name is a nod to
the morning meetings they
had in Milan. For spring, the
duo was influenced by the
uniforms that English laborers
wore during the Second
Industrial Revolution. They
worked hard, but they were
always elegant, Romano says.
He and Alagna reimagined
overalls, shirts, and smocks as
roomy tops with checkerboard
graphics; skirts come with
utilitarian pockets; and an
elegant sleeveless jumpsuit is
ideal for work or play.

Self-Portrait
This three-year-old London line
by the Malaysian-born designer
Han Chong, 36 (above), offers
intricately crafted cocktail
dresses that belie their
affordable prices. No wonder
the label is already big with
party hoppers, and not just
those on a budget: Dasha
Zhukova, Kristen Stewart, and
Miranda Kerr have all been
spotted in Chongs eye-catching
confections. But Chong, who
studied art in Kuala Lumpur
and displayed work at the
2009 Venice Biennalebefore
attending Londons Central
Saint Martins, is capable of
more than just accessible
eveningwear. His spring
collection, which he debuted
at New York Fashion Week,
was a streetwise take on his
signature aesthetic: Jumpsuits,
culottes, and loose slip dresses
in traic-stopping shades
of cobalt and citron looked
cool for day, especially paired
with sporty sandals.

MCQUEEN: INDIGITAL; AREA, PANSZCZYK AND FOGG, COMEFORBREAKFAST, ROMANO AND ALAGNA, PHELAN: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER (2); ROCHAS, FOX, HAMSTER, ARMADILLO, CHONG, UNDERCOVER: GETTY IMAGES

Rebecca Voight zeroes in on four labels to watch.

NOW TRENDING

The Class of 1997

THE SO-CALLED LOST DECADE IS BEING
REDISCOVERED BY A NEW GENERATION.
L AT E LY I T S E E M S LI K E EV E RY W H E R E YO U L O O K T H E R E

Above, from left: Models

Sofia Tesmenitskaya in
Y/Project bomber, earrings,
and cuff; Cline top;
Off-White c/o Virgil Abloh x
Levis jeans; and Lottie
Hayes in Y/Project hoodie;
Paco Rabanne top;
Koch jeans; Lana Jewelry
earrings; Calvin Klein
Collection slip-ons.

186

wmag.com

are signs of a 1990s revival brewing in the cultural zeitgeist. Consider the evidence: Post-feminism is grabbing headlines again;
Trainspotting is slated for a sequel; Surge, the citrus soda, is resurging; were in the midst of another digital boom; and it looks
like the Clintons might be returning to the White House.
The 90s are still pretty fresh, says Helen Molesworth, the
curator of Dont Look Back: The 1990s, an exhibition opening
this month at the Museum of Contemporary Art in Los Angeles that attempts to makes sense, in artistic terms, of that decade.
The show examines notions of race, gender, sexuality, and identity that prevailed during those years, through works by Roni
Horn, Sarah Sze, Paul McCarthy, and Rene Green, among others. As a result of the fall of the Berlin Wall, in 1989, and the
incredible explosion of the Internet, the world got reorganized,

while the rise of the personal computer changed

our relationship to information, Molesworth says.
The art world became totally global. The shows
title refers to lyrics from a
Bob Dylan song and, more
generally, to the way that artists tend to keep an
eye on the future, even as they turn to the past for
inspiration. I think thats also true in fashion,
Molesworth notes.
Indeed. Last year, fresh out of the gate, Guccis
new creative director, Alessandro Michele, championed an aesthetic reminiscent of the late-90s
cartoon Daria, which he advanced this spring with
haute-thrift beanies, prom skirts, and giant prescription eyeglasses. Meanwhile, a slew of designers
including Saint Laurents Hedi Slimane, Calvin
Kleins Francisco Costa, and Clines Phoebe Philo
sent out variations on the slip dress, that quintessential waif-wear staple. At Chlo, Clare Waight Keller
concocted rainbow-stripe pants that recalled beachside raves. And Vetementss Demna Gvasalia, who was recently
tapped to take the reins at Balenciaga, deconstructed and reconstructed garments in the vein of 90s stalwart Martin Margiela.
Emerging designers seem especially besotted with the energy
and freedom of Gen Xers. At Off-White, Virgil Abloh showed
loads of skater-girl midriff and oversize denimfrayed, faded,
and patchworked. Tim Coppens revisited the club-land of his
youth with mushroom and amoeba-like prints. And Christelle
Kocher, the artistic director of the French plumasserie Maison
Lemari, upgraded streetwear with couture-level embellishments in her own line, Koch. The 90s was the time when I
opened my eyes to fashion, Kocher says. There were so many
designers with strong identities: Margiela and the Antwerp
scene, Martine Sitbon, Helmut Lang, John Galliano...The art
aspect matterednot only the business.
Perhaps we should also thank musicians for the 90s comeback.
Grimes is known for her moody magpie style, and FKA Twigs,
a former backup dancer, performs in getups reminiscent of the
Fly Girls. Then theres Mabel, the daughter of the rapper Neneh
Cherry. The 90s baby recently debuted her first single, Know
Me Better, with cover art depicting her in a belly-baring crop
top, bomber jacket, and low-slung jeans that flaunt her Calvin
Klein underwear. Its as if she were daring us to, well, face the
music all over again.

Photograph by BEN GRIEME Styled by ALEX HARRINGTON

HAIR BY TAMAS TUZES FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT LATELIER NYC; MAKEUP BY JUNKO KIOKA FOR CHANEL AT JOE MANAGEMENT; MODELS: LOTTIE HAYES AT SUPREME MANAGEMENT, SOFIA TESMENITSKAYA AT
WILHELMINA MODELS; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: BRIAN KANAGAKI; STYLIST ASSISTANT: MEGAN SORIA; DIONS WHEN DINOSAURS RULED THE EARTH (TOYS R U.S.): THE MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART, LOS
ANGELES/GIFT OF PER SKARSTEDT; ROSIE ASSOULIN: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; KOCHE: INDIGITAL; MABEL: JAMIE MORGAN; FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

Clockwise, from top: A Mark

Dion installation from 1994
included in Dont Look Back:
The 1990s; a look from
Rosie Assoulin, spring 2016;
the singer Mabel; a look from
Koch, spring 2016.

STYLE SETTERS

1.

2.

1. Edgardo Osorio, at home

in Florence, flanked by his
friends Alejandra De Rojas
and Sabine Getty, who are
wearing his shoes. 2. A
fresco in Ricardo DAlmeida
Figueiredos home office.
3. The view from Palazzo
Corsini. 4. The palazzo
overlooks the Arno River. 5. A
favorite painting at home:
Lola Montes Schnabels
Traveling Around the World,
2014. 6. A shoe from the
Aquazzura collaboration with
Salvatore Ferragamo.
7. DAlmeida Figueiredos
office features a couch from
Gallotti & Radice, coffee
tables from Flexform, and a
photograph by Thomas Ruff.

3.

4.

5.
6.
7.

Sole Mates
WHEN IT COMES TO THE GOOD LIFE,
AQUAZZURA FOUNDERS EDGARDO OSORIO
AND RICARDO DALMEIDA FIGUEIREDO
WALK THE WALK. BY ALEXANDRA MARSHALL
9.

10.

8. The couples living

room is decorated with
Vladimir Kagan chairs
and Douglas Gordons
Self Portrait of You + Me
(Bo Derek), 2006. 9. The
sculpted archway is
a 17th-century altar from
a Portuguese church.
10. A sitting area in
Osorios design studio.

188

wmag.com

The Line of Beauty

Whats missing today in fashion is simply beautiful things,
says Edgardo Osorio, a cofounder, with Ricardo DAlmeida
Figueiredo, of the shoe line Aquazzura. Its as if to be
interesting you had to be depressed and messy, but thats
complete nonsense. Indeed, there is no shortage of beautiful
things in their 2,000-square-foot pied--terre in the 15thcentury Palazzo Corsini in Florence, which overlooks the Arno
River. Here one finds an upbeat jumble of art by Douglas
Gordon and Vanessa Beecroft, Baroque Viennese portraiture,
Ralph Lauren and Christian Lacroix wallpaper, a bit of
taxidermy, and a lot of antique Portuguese silver. Osorio, 30,
and DAlmeida Figueiredo, 44, are there only a week or two per
month due to an ambitious international-travel schedule, but
when they are, the door is open to friends such as the jewelry
designer Sabine Getty, the fashion entrepreneur Alejandra
De Rojas, and the model and It girl Poppy Delevingne, with
whom Osorio created a capsule collection. On this day, Getty is
lounging on the velvet sofa in the living room, an Herms
Bleus dAilleurs cup of tea perched on the zebra-skin table in
front of her. I just love this place, she gushes.

Photographs by BILLAL TARIGHT Styled by GIANLUCA LONGO

1: ALEJANDRA DE ROJAS WEARS CHRISTOPHER KANE TOP AND SKIRT; AQUAZZURA SANDALS. SABINE GETTY WEARS ALESSANDRA RICH ROMPER;
AQUAZZURA SANDALS; 4: COURTESY OF AQUAZZURA; 6: TIM HOUT. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

8.

STYLE SETTERS

1.

1. The flagship
store, in Florence.
2. Sketches in the
Aquazzura design
studio. 3. A sandal
from the spring
2016 collection.

2.
3.

A Step Ahead

4.

5.

HAIR BY GUJA AT ATOMO MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY KARIN BORROMEO AT WM-MANAGEMENT; 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12: COURTESY OF AQUAZZURA: 5, 9: GETTY IMAGES; 8: SPLASH NEWS

6.

Osorio, who was born in Cartagena,

Colombia, has been working as a
shoe designer since he was 19, with
stints at Salvatore Ferragamo,
Ren Caovilla, and Roberto Cavalli
along the way. When we launched
Aquazzura in 2011, it was just me
and Edgardo in his old apartment
surrounded by shoeboxes, says
DAlmeida Figueiredo, formerly a
Lisbon-based publicist for luxury
brands like Louis Vuitton, Cartier,
and Gucci. Since then, they have
placed Osorios sexy, deceptively
comfortable shoes with Browns,
Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue,
and Net-a-Porter. In November,
Osorio collaborated with Ferragamo
on a 12-shoe collection. It was the
first place I worked when I got to
Italy, he says. Partnering with them
10 years later, when Im in such a
different place in my life, was really
special to me.

4. A rendering of the
New York store. 5. Gigi
Hadid, Osorio, and
Devon Windsor, in Paris,
2014. 6. An optical-art
corner in the London
store. 7. Saloni Lodha,
Eugenie Niarchos,
Osorio, and Nicky Hilton
Rothschild, at the
opening of the London
store, 2015.

13.
7.

9.

8.

11.

10.
12.

Global Footprint
Osorio and DAlmeida Figueiredo are expanding the burgeoning
Aquazzura empire with the same upbeat maximalism evident in their
living quarters. They opened their rst store, in Florence, in 2014, on
the ground oor of the palazzo; a London agship followed last fall;
New York is having its debut this month; and outposts in Macau and
Hong Kong are in the works. I never met a stripe I didnt like, says
Osorio, referring to the decor of the Florence shop, with its pops of
vivid jade green, brass, and its restored frescoes dating from when
a Corsini ran the Vatican as Pope Clement XII. That exuberance
tempered with practicalityclearly extends to his wildly popular
stilettos and ats. Ive always wanted to create shoes that were
positive and happy. Whenever I went to a wedding or a party, girls
kept complaining about their shoes. I love to dance, and I wanted
them to have shoes they could keep on all night.

8. and 9. Emma Stone

and Jennifer Lawrence,
in Aquazzura heels.
10. A sketch from the
fall 2014 collection.
11. Osorio at the
Aquazzura London
opening, 2015.
12. Osorio with his
friend and collaborator
Poppy Delevingne.
13. DAlmeida
Figueiredo and Osorio,
with a Venus sculpture
in Palazzo Corsini.

wmag.com

193

POWER PLAYER

ORIGINAL XIN
W H EN X I N LI WA S 12, S H E LEF T H ER FA M I LY H O M E I N

Xin Li, at her home in

New York, in front of
Claire Tabourets The
Red Carnival, 2015.

194

wmag.com

Northeastern China to live in a nearby sports facility and train

with the countrys most promising basketball players. She was in
uniform every day by 5 a.m. and spent eight hours a day on the
court. Her mother, a biochemistry professor, and her father, the
regional minister of sports in the Manchurian province of Jilin,
expected excellence: Be the best of the best, her father counseled.
By 15, she was. Standing just under six feet, Li was chosen to play
professionally for the national junior basketball team and traveled
across China and, once, to Vladivostok, the Russian port city near
the Chinese border. But she longed to see the wider world. After completing her studies in sports management at Beijing Sport
University, she took off for Paris in 1996 to become a model. For
the next four years, she says, she was the lone Chinese runway
model working outside China.
Now the deputy chairman of Christies Asia, Li, 40, is still a quick
study. She had never laid eyes on a work of art until she was 20. She
began in the auction business just eight years ago, at Sothebys, in
New York, rotating through its departments and cramming information from the Internet, specialists, and trips to the Museum of
Modern Art. These days, this child of communism is a symbol of
capitalist success: She manages Christies relationships with its most
important private collectors from Asia, whose booming clout on
the global art stage has helped fuel her ascent. In May 2014, during
Christies postwarandcontemporary art sale in New York, Li won
five of the top 10 works for her clients, accounting for $236 million
of the evenings $745 million haul, then the highest total ever for
a single auction. And last November, when Amedeo Modiglianis

Nu Couch hit the block with a minimum bid of $75 million, Li

had a phone pressed to her ear, bidding on behalf of a client until
the price surpassed $130 million. (The painting sold to Liu Yiqian,
another Asian buyer, for more than $170 million.) The very next
night, Li snapped up a painting by Lucio Fontana ($29 million),
an Alexander Calder mobile ($9 million), and an early work by Cy
Twombly ($17 million).
Ive always played better during the real game than in practice,
Li told me a few days after the sale, when I remarked on her composure amid the high bidding. Its something I learned from being
an athlete and model. I feel the lights and the camera, and I know
how to stay focused. But when you are working as a model, its all
about you. Working in an auction house, nothing is about you. I
learned how to switch off my past and become a different person.
We were sitting on blue velvet sofas in the Manhattan townhouse she shares with her fianc, the music mogul Lyor Cohen.
The two met on the beach on St. Barths in late 2014 and plan to
marry this year. Alexander McQueens Sarah Burton is designing
her dress, and Li is studying Judaism with a rabbi, though she has
yet to decide whether shes converting to Cohens faith. He has already expanded her playlistfrom traditional Chinese music and
Italian opera to the likes of Fetty Wap and Young Thugjust two
of the hip-hop stars whose careers Cohen has orchestrated. (Li,
whose parents love to sing, created an instant bond between them
and Cohen the night she took them all out to a Hong Kong karaoke bar and got her fianc to join her parents in their favorite song
about Chairman Mao.) In a few hours, they were due to head to the
Z100 Jingle Ball at Madison Square Garden with Cohens teenage

Photographs by JEFF HENRIKSON Styling by CLARE BYRNE

HAIR BY BRAYDON NELSON FOR ORIBE HAIR CARE AT JULIAN WATSON AGENCY; MAKEUP BY JEN MYLES; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS:
GREGORY WIKSTROM, ROMEK RASENAS; FASHION ASSISTANT: LUCAS DAWSON; LI WEARS ALTUZARRA DRESS; FALLON EARRINGS

FORMER BASKETBALL STARTURNEDMODEL XIN LI IS

THE ART WORLDS LATEST MVP. BY DIANE SOLWAY

POWER PLAYER

This child of
communism
has become
a symbol
of capitalist
success.

196

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daughter, Bea, and Lis best friend, Wendi Murdoch, a pal since Lis
modeling days and her first art client.
Li was nursing a bad cold and had a strained voice. During the
LondonNew YorkHong Kong auction season, she sleeps barely
four hours a night and makes monthly trips to Asia. Still, her manner was warm and upbeat. Hanging on the wall behind us was a
2002 portrait of a wide-eyed, frowning girl by Yoshitomo Nara,
which was about to be replaced by a painting of enigmatic costumed
children that Li had bought from the artist Claire Tabouret. Li had
first seen Tabourets work in 2014, on a visit to the Palazzo Grassi,
in Venice, with Christies owner, Franois Pinault. (She also advises
him on his private collection of contemporary Chinese art.) Last
fall, Li surprised Cohen for his birthday with a Tabouret portrait of
Elvis Presley, which now leans against a bookcase stuffed with LPs,
family pictures, and art catalogs. I asked if shes having an impact
on his art preferences. I dont want to change Lyors taste, just like
I dont try to change my clients tastes, she replied. I get to know
them really well, and I listen and learn with them.
Lis job is to find the most coveted works of artand the Asian
collectors willing to drop $100 million for them. Her core group
of 10 clients is primarily female, self-made, and entrepreneurial.
Their trajectory is not unlike her own. When she moved to Paris
to become a model, she spoke only Mandarin and spent months
by herself, listening intently to people talking in cafs, trying to
figure out what their story was, she said. Everything was culture
shock. To fill her time, she started going to museums.
Not surprisingly, she sees herself as a bridge between China and
the Western art world. She understands the Chinese and Western way of thinking, Murdoch says. Its unique to know how to
work in both cultures and make things happen. Plus, shes very
smart, hardworking, passionate, and just super trustworthythat
combination is really hard to find. Another of Lis strengths is her
ability to lead her clients to artists they havent heard of by pointing out shared sensibilities. She introduced one collector focused
on Chinese calligraphy to the brushwork of the Abstract Expressionist Franz Kline; another, who relished Marc Chagalls use of
color, developed a hankering for the slashed monochrome masterpieces of the Italian modernist Lucio Fontana.

One of Lis tools is WeChat, the messaging app that serves a

half-billion users in China and to which she regularly posts grids
of images grouped thematically to highlight items from Christies sales. She also sends art books to her clients and offers them
private tours, such as the one of the Picasso sculpture exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art with her close friend Diana
Widmaier-Picasso, an art historian who is writing the first complete
scholarly inventory of her grandfathers sculptures. WidmaierPicasso, in fact, brokered Lis entre to the art world. Introduced
at a dinner party on St. Barths in early 2008, Li confided that she
loved art and was eager to move on from modeling; WidmaierPicasso suggested Sothebys, where she had once worked, and set
up an interview. During Lis first week there as a trainee, Murdoch
bought a painting by Fang Lijunand has been a client ever since.
(Murdoch herself got into the game in 2009, cofounding Artsy, an
online site linking buyers with artists and artworks.) Li and Murdoch have collaborated on numerous events, including the 2013
Artsy/Christies schmoozefest and preview they organized at the
Silicon Valley home of Google cofounder Larry Page and his wife,
Lucy. Theres absolutely no hauteur about Li, says Marc Porter,
the former chairman of Christies Americas, who is decamping to
Sothebys. She is happy to use a shared computer and hang out. So
when her colleagues have great projects or clients, instead of going
around her, they want to work with her.
Li increasingly sees her role as that of ambassador for a burgeoning Chinese art scene. Her older sister, Xi, who lives in
Beijing, is the chief art director of Gagosian Gallery China. Together, they are building a cutting-edge collection of art from
their homeland. Last spring, Li and Murdoch hosted the art star
Dan Colen in Beijing, giving him amazing access, Colen recalled, to collectors, artists, and private collections. The trio toured
the Forbidden City on a day it was closed to the public and stayed
in Murdochs nearby house. I cant imagine going there without
this person bridging all these cultural differences, he said of Li,
who was no doubt eager to put Colen, a Gagosian artist, on her
clients radar. Whats rare about Xin is that she connects deeply to
both artists and people with money who want to collect in a very
ambitious way but are just starting to have a connection to art.
For all the travel Lis job demands, her wanderlust has never left
her. She makes it a priority to travel every year to a place shes never
been. In 2015, it was the North Pole. She took three planes and a
helicopter, and then ended up in a place so remote she couldnt recall its name. She went with Cohen and a girlfriend she dubbed
an adventurer, and over four days they marveled at the Northern
Lights. We spent the whole time watching the sky turn pink, orange, green, she recalled with awe of standing on top of the world.
It was a spectacle that likely no work of art could match.

LI AND COHEN: PATRICK MCMULLAN; ETRO: FIRST VIEW; LI AND MURDOCH: BFA/SIPA USA/NEWSCOM; FORBIDDEN CITY: COURTESY OF LI; FAR LEFT: LI WEARS VALENTINO
JACKET; MAX MARA TOP AND JUMPSUIT; FALLON EARRINGS; HER OWN RING. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

Clockwise, from far left: Li, at

Christies, 2015; with Lyor Cohen,
at the Metropolitan Museum of
Art Costume Institute Gala for the
opening of China: Through the
Looking Glass in 2015; on
the runway at Etro, spring 2000;
Li and Wendi Murdoch, in Hong
Kong, 2013; Li, Gagosians Sam
Orlofsky, the artist Dan Colen,
and Murdoch (from left), at the
Forbidden City, Beijing, 2015.

HAIR BY SHERIDAN WARD AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY OZZY SALVATIERRA FOR CLARINS AT STREETERS; MANICURIST NETTIE DAVIS; MODEL: MIA KANG AT TRUMP MODELS; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JEFFREY VOGEDING, KEVIN BATISTA; FASHION ASSISTANT: KIRSTEN LAYNE ALVAREZ;
A$AP ROCKY WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET, T-SHIRT, AND OVERALLS; ADIDAS ORIGINALS SNEAKERS. MODEL WEARS GUESS ORIGINALS X A$AP ROCKY JACKET AND TANK; GUESS JEANS. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

OLD SCHOOL

From top: A$AP Rocky;

a jacket and tank
top from Guess
Originals x A$AP Rocky.

Throwback Jam
IN A COLLABORATION WITH GUESS, A $AP ROCKY
REMIXES THE BRANDS CLASSICS WITH SWAGGER.

ONCE UPON A T IME, H I PHOP S LOVE AFFAI R WI T H T H E

sportswear brand Guess was so torrid, it felt like life and death.
When I dress, its never nothing less than Guess, Nas rapped
on his 1994 album, Illmatic. The desperate resorted to bootlegs, as
Andr 3000 pointed out in a 2000 interview: Some fake Guess
sew the Guess sign on some Gap jeans. If you werent careful, you
might have even been mugged for the triangular patch on the back
of your distressed jeans. People were ignorant enough to literally
kill someone over it, A$AP Rocky recalls. The 27-year-old musician grew up in Harlem surrounded by Guess loyalistseven
his parents wore Guess.
These days, the artist who bragged, I spent $20,000 with my
partners in Bahamas/Another $20,000 on Rick Owens out in
Barneys, may be second only to Kanye West in his devotion to
ultra-high-end labels, but he hasnt lost any love for the clothes of

Photographs by CHAD PITMAN Styled by DEBORAH AFSHANI

his youth. After years of trolling consignment shops and eBay for
vintage Guess, Rocky finally approached the brand about working together to revive seminal pieces from the 80s and 90s. I had
this urge for people to appreciate and acknowledge what Guess
stood for, he says. Then I was like, Why dont I be that guy?
Guess Originals x A$AP Rocky leans heavily on acid wash,
pinstripes, and that signature triangle logo, updated with some
Rocky flourishes (the telltale sign is the spelling: GUE$$). The
womens capsule collection, which includes high-rise shorts,
overalls, and denim swimwear, is sexy and fun, successfully
straddling nostalgia and irony. (Banking on its success, Guess is
lining up more Originals collaborations.) But dont expect Rocky
to be showing his own designs on the runway, la Kanye, anytime soon. Im not a designer, he clarifies. I just know whats
dope.

wmag.com

199

MAN ABOUT TOWN

Matthew Freud,
at home in
London, with a
sign from
Paramount
Studios and his
dog, Vincent.

Wish Fulfillment
MATTHEW FREUD IS FINALLY ON HIS
OWN TURF, IN A MODERNIST HOUSE
WHERE EVERY PIECE OF ART HAS A
BACKSTORY. BY WILLIAM SHAW

202

wmag.com

GAZING AT THE ARTFILLED WALLS OF MAT THEW FREUDS

London home, one is tempted to interpret his impressive collection as part of an ongoing struggle to define himself as his
own man. Tucked away in the dining room is a cluster of framed
Austrian banknotes that bear the head of his great-grandfather
Sigmund Freud. Nestled among the Warhols and Picassos, the
Grayson Perrys and Bill Violas, are dozens of prints, paintings,
and photographs by and of his uncle, the great British artist
Lucian Freud.
Mention them and Freud says, curtly, Look. Thats not for
today.

Photographs by HENRY BOURNE Styled by GIANLUCA LONGO

Freud comes from a family of overachievers. Sigmund and Lucian aside,

Matthew grew up in the shadow of yet
another Freud, his father, Sir Clement
Freud, a 1970s TV celebrity chef and
comedian, who was hugely famous in
the U.K. when Matthew was a boy. (As
well as being a member of Britains Parliament, Clement is the bearded man to
the left of Paul McCartney, clutching
Linda, on Wings 1973 Band on the Run
album cover.) Hailed as the man who
laid down the M.O. for modern public
relations, Matthew has built a client list
that includes Pepsi, Nike, and BMW,
and has engineered the buzz for cultural moments like the charity concert
Live 8, the London 2012 Olympics,
and (RED), the brand founded by U2
frontman Bono to raise funds to combat AIDS in Africa. His legendary
parties have been meeting places for the wealthy and powerful.
And as he sits down on a library sofa, he feels obliged to say,
Sodont ask anything about the Murdochs. Primarily, this is
about art, he clarifies, with a sense of halting English embarrassment, rather than, um
For 13 years, Freud was one half of one of Britains most feted
power couples, married to media mogul Rupert Murdochs daughter Elisabeth. They were close friends with three consecutive
British prime ministers, Tony Blair, Gordon Brown, and David
Cameron, all of whom saw the Freuds as a conduit to Britains cultural elite and the worlds most powerful media magnate.
Since the couple divorced, in 2014, this remarkable house in
Primrose Hill, which they bought for a reported $36 million, has
become Freuds base, a place where he is reestablishing his identity. The house is a glorious piece of architectural sleight of hand,
an homage to classical modernism constructed from concrete,
steel, and glass, completely hidden within a former Victorian
work yard and encircled by 19th-century homes. Its glassy, spacious interiors, dotted with pieces by Charles and Ray Eames, a
Vladimir Kagan sofa, and an armchair designed by Le Corbusier,
make you feel like you could be anywhere in the world. Its a
residence designed for someone who loves to entertain. There
are three huge dining tablestwo inside, one outsideand a
heated outdoor pool that can be filled in seconds. Much like

Freud himself, it is a house that defies and even transcends its

surroundings.
I chose very early on to say, Im not going to be someones son,
someones great-grandson, someones nephew, he notes. My dad
was very famous, you know. People would point at me and say,
Thats Clement Freuds son. It was clearly the most important
thing about me when I was a teenager.
Young Matthew rebelled. Despite coming from a clan of highminded artists and politicians, he chose to enter the grubbier world
of commerce, going into public relations, where his first job was for
the music label RCA. It was a rule, in my family, that you didnt do
anything anyone else had done, Freud wryly points out. He soon
discovered, however, that his great-uncle Edward Bernays was the
man who fused Sigmund Freuds theories of psychology with marketing, thus becoming known as the father of modern PR.
But Matthew persevered. Something that set him apart was a
profound understanding of the peculiarly starstruck nature of the
British media. His breakthrough, in 1987, was landing the Hard
Rock Cafe as a client, which led to his being hired to launch
Planet Hollywood in London, in 1992. In the decades that followed, Freud not only made his name in public relations but
also amassed a considerable fortune by making smart business
moves within that world. Harnessing celebrity was a reasonably
insightful idea, he says. Because I did it before it became mainstream, Ive done well out of that.
In the high-ceiling living room, to the right of the main fireplace hangs a black and white photograph taken by Robert
Whitaker of Maureen Starkey Tigrett, the late wife of the businessman Isaac Tigrett. The image is a nod to a pivotal time in
Freuds life: Tigrett is the founder of the Hard Rock franchise.
Maureen, whose first husband was Ringo Starr, is lying in bed,
having just given birth to their son Zak, her 60s-beehive hairdo
nothing less than immaculate. Tigrett had this incredible collection of memorabilia, and he said the best thing in his collection
was Maureen, says Freud, who is godfather to Maureen and
Isaacs daughter Augusta.
If theres something sweet about the way that photo is placed
below a Tracey Emin neon that reads , a Lucian Freud
painting, a William Kentridge drawing, a Marc Quinn flower
painting, and a Picasso silver plate, its that it symbolizes the collection as a whole. The thing that I enjoy about collecting is the
very personal narrative, Freud says. As it happens, there ended
up being a lot of vaguely Freud-related art in this house. I came
quite late to that because only now do I feel I have a clear idea
of who I am.

Collecting
is about the
personal
narrative,
Freud says.
People have
forgotten
that you live
with art.

Clockwise, from above,

left: A Charlotte Perriand
bookshelf, a Marc Quinn
floral painting, and several
Warhols adorn the living
room; a piece by Bill Viola
hangs above an Antony
Gormley sculpture; the
kitchen is livened up with a
collection of colored glass.

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203

Top: A George
Nakashima
bench. Below: A
Grayson Perry
work adds punch
to a bar designed
by Paul Brown;
the lounge chair is
Eames Brothers.

He elaborates, citing a bad film called

Throw Momma From the Train. Theres
this scene where Danny DeVito shows
off his coin collection: This is the dime
I got as change from the quarter that my
dad gave me when he took us to the baseball game before he ran off and I never saw
him againIf you want to see a collection of great stuff, go to the Tate. (Never
mind that many of Freuds prized pieces
would not be out of place at the Tate, or
any other major museum.)
Even the gold iWatch on his wrist fits
into the narrative: On the mantelpiece, a
few feet away, sits a prototype of a Leica
camera that Jonathan Ive, the chief design
officer at Apple, gave him a few years ago;
Ive designed it with Marc Newson when
Freud was a part of Bonos (RED) charity
team. The actual item, of which only one
was made, sold for $1.8 million.
On the upstairs landing theres a Damien Hirst Spot painting, which, naturally, has a story behind it, too. In 1996, Freud,
Hirst, and the chef Marco Pierre White took over the London
restaurant Quo Vadis, which Hirst decked out with works by
artist friends including Sarah Lucas, Marc Quinn, and Rachel
Whiteread. After Hirst and White fell out spectacularly, Freud
and Hirst opened Pharmacy, a restaurant in Notting Hill, in
1998. Because Pharmacy was full of Hirsts pieces and was
billed as an artwork in and of itself, it was valued at around
$12 million. That created a complicated accounting problem,
as the law required Freud and Hirst to write off 25 percent of
the value of fixtures and fittings as depreciation. So no matter
how successful the restaurant was, its balance sheets would always show a loss. To get around this, Freud sold Hirst all of his
own artworks back to him for one pound; in return, Hirst leased
them to Pharmacy. When the restaurant closed, in 2003, Hirst
put them all up for auction and netted about $17 million. Freud
likes to boast that it was his worst deal ever. I may have made
the occasional good investment
in art over the past 25 years, but
its all wiped out by that one.
In one sense, Pharmacy aimed
to remove art from the white
cube. The art gallery has become about the buying and
selling of art. What most people seem to have forgotten is
that you live with art, Freud
says. Hanging in the offices of
Freud Communications are some
300 pieces from his collection;
more than one for every person the agency employs. Every
sight line has things to look at
and things to stimulate you, he
says. At home in Primrose Hill,
he chooses pieces and places
them with care, carrying them
around until theyve found the

right surroundings. Hes just swapped a Frank Auerbach above

the fireplace for a portrait of his grandmother, painted by one of
Lucians art teachers, because the Auerbach matched the color of
a brick wall upstairs. Ive moved the Derek Jarman. Now, where
did I put it? he wonders aloud. This modern environment suits
contemporary work, but seven years ago, when he and Elisabeth
bought Burford Priory, a country house in Oxfordshire that had
been built in the Jacobean period as a monastery, Freud decided
he needed entirely different art to go with it. It meant I had to
find a collection from the 16th and 17th centuries. I had to find
200 picturesand decided that every single one had to have a
relationship to a house.
Which would have been like taking an entire history class.
Exactly, he says. Burford is where Charles II fucked Nell
Gwyn and impregnated her with the Earl of Burford, so I got
a Nell Gwyn. I also got a Van Dyck of Cromwell, where the
face is absolutely the most beautiful portrait of Cromwell, but
the student who finished the rest of the painting was the worst
jobsworth. Its kind of hilarious.
Burford Priory was a home for entertaining the great and the
good. Heads of state came to dinner. Primrose Hill has more
of a bachelor pad vibe (he ruefully points to the space where an
Alexander Calder mobile he lost in the divorce settlement used
to hang). Neighbors have complained about late-night parties,
at which the likes of Samuel L. Jackson, Benedict Cumberbatch,
and Justin Timberlake are among the guests. The Bond-like bar
is stocked with tequila and rises up at the press of a button as the
sounds of James Taylor fill the house. In Freuds bedroom theres
a portrait of Hugh Hefner by the artist Jonathan Yeo (my friend
Johnny) made entirely from cut-up porn.
A car has arrived. Freud will have to return to the office soon.
He is talking enthusiastically about an installation he created out
of a Dieter Rams reel-to-reel tape recorder and an original recording of a Martin Luther King Jr. speech, explaining that this
is not just a recording but the recordinga direct link to the great
leader and activist. At the moment when I acquired every single
piece of art, it was the One, Freud says. Now, every day when I
walk around my house, I see those moments. The moments when
I had that emphatic relationship.

PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: KENSINGTON LEVERNE

The heated outdoor pool

can be filled in seconds.
Much like Freud himself, the
house defies and even
transcends its surroundings.

MAN ABOUT TOWN

Clockwise, from right: Freud and his dog, on
the Vladimir Kagan couch in the living room; a
George Nakashima table and a Stephan Balkenhol
sculpture are the focal point of the space that
abuts the living room; a Julian Sainsbury
sculpture by the outdoor dining area; a wooden
tub anchors the bathroom; another seating
area, with a reclaimed-wood coffee table,
features a large Gilbert and George work (left)
and a smaller one by Michal Rovner.

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205

IT GIRL
3

4
1. Grant wears Missoni dress;
A Peace Treaty earring.
2. Derek Lam pants.
3. Mizuki earrings. 4. One of
Grants top literary picks.
5. Her portrait of the tailor
Martin Greenfield for the
magazine Fantastic Man.
6. Tods bag. 7. Her photo of
her sister, Lana Del Rey.
8. Grants grandparents on
their wedding day, 1951.

10
9. Peter Pilotto dress.
10. Rosie Assoulin top and
pants; Arme De LAmour
earrings; Hunting Season
bag; her own ring. 11. An
image of Alana Champion
and Lily-Rose Depp
from Grants upcoming
book about Persephone.
12. A self-portrait. 13. Noor
Fares necklace. 14. Sonia
by Sonia Rykiel sweater.

2
11

Rainbow Bright

THE PHOTOGRAPHER CHUCK GRANT

TAKES HER TURN IN THE SPOTLIGHT.

15
18
16
15. Chet Baker, one of her
favorite musicians. 16. A
Galore cover of Charli XCX,
shot by Grant. 17. Chanel
bag; Mikuti cuff; Marni top;
Chlo pants. 18. Fratelli
Rossetti sneakers. For stores,
prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-to-buymarch-2016.

208

wmag.com

17

IN A CULTURE THAT THRIVES ON

immediate gratification, the

photographer Caroline Chuck Grant
comes across as refreshingly oldfashioned. Its a very natural process
to be able to shoot and not have to talk
about what happened right after it
happened, says the 26-year-old, who
works almost exclusively with film,
often using her Hasselblad camera. As
a student at Parsons School of Design,
in New York, Grant scored a major
assignment: a portfolio of Mormon
women in Utah for New York magazine.
Her photos have since appeared in
Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair, and Grant
continuously collaborates with her older
sister, the singer Lana Del Reymost
recently on the art for her 2015 album,
Honeymoon. Grant will soon publish her
first book, in which a trio of cool girls
Lily-Rose Depp, Alana Champion, and
Samantha Adamsportray Persephone,
goddess of the underworld. Its about
experiencing your own version of
Hades, Grant says. And finding that
you actually prefer it to the life you
used to have.

13
12

14

Photographs by LAUREN DUKOFF Styled by ASHLEY FURNIVAL Edited by SAM MILNER

HAIR BY IAN JAMES AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY SAGE MAITRI AT THE WALL GROUP; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: CONNOR HUGHES; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: SEAN COSTELLO, GREGORY BROUILLETTE; FASHION ASSISTANT:
KENDALL FINZER; 3: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; 4: COURTESY OF SCRIBNER; 5, 7, 8, 11, 12: COURTESY OF GRANT; 15: METRONOME/GETTY IMAGES; 16: COURTESY OF GALORE; 2, 6, 9, 13, 14, 18: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON

WHATS HOT

Stripe
It Rich
PROP STYLIST: JANINE IVERSEN

THE AMERICAN DREAM,

BY WAY OF ITALY.
Gucci bag. For stores, prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.

Photograph by GRANT CORNETT Edited by RICKIE DE SOLE

Shoulder On
BRACE YOURSELF FOR
SPRINGS BIG REVEAL.

Clockwise, from top, left:

Proenza Schouler dress;
Pomellato ring. Kenzo dress;
David Yurman earrings.
Derek Lam blouse;
Pomellato ring. Pringle of
Scotland dress; Lagos ring.
Mugler top; Phyne by Paige
Novick ear cuff; Elodie K.
earrings; Suzanne Kalan
ring. For stores, prices, and
more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.

Photographs by CHRIS COLLS

Styled by MICHELLE CAMERON

212

wmag.com

HAIR BY ROLANDO BEAUCHAMP FOR ORIBE AT THE WALL GROUP; MAKEUP BY KRISTI MATAMOROS FOR MAKE UP FOREVER AT FRANK REPS; MANICURE BY HOLLY FALCONE FOR DIOR AT KATE RYAN INC.;
MODEL: RILEY MONTANA AT NEXT MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: DON BRODIE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: DEAN PODMORE, DREW VICKERS; FASHION ASSISTANT: KYLE HAYES

WHATS HOT

HOT PROPERTY

Lighten
Up

STARK-WHITE
ACCESSORIES HAVE
A WAY OF LIFTING
EVEN THE BLUEST
OF MOODS.

Prada bag; Miu Miu shoes; Assembly

New York jumpsuit.

Photographs by JASON KIBBLER Styled by TRACEY NICHOLSON

Top: Fendi bag; Louis

Vuitton boots; Vanessa
Seward jacket; Guess
jeans. Left, from front:
Nancy Gonzalez bag;
Jil Sander shoes; Blue
Les Copains top; Diesel
Black Gold jeans. Dior
flats; Dsquared2 shirt;
Sandro jeans; stylists
own scarf. For stores,
prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/whereto-buy-march-2016.

HAIR BY KAYLA MICHELE FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS AT STREETERS NY; MAKEUP BY FRANKIE BOYD AT TIM HOWARD MANAGEMENT; MANICURES BY RICA ROMAIN AT LMC WORLDWIDE; SET DESIGN BY BETTE ADAMS AT MARY HOWARD STUDIO; MODELS: LINE BREMS AT SILENT MODELS NY,
DAGA ZIOBER AT THE SOCIETY MANAGEMENT; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: WARD PRICE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JAMES SCHIEBERL, SAM DONG, DEBORAH AOUATE; HAIR ASSISTANT: JOSEPH TORRES; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: JEFFERSON SANTIAGO; SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS: DAVID CADDO, GREG HUFF

HOT PROPERTY

Left and above:

Looks from Rodartes
capsule collection
for & Other Stories.

HOLLYWOOD NIGHTS

RODARTE TEAMS WITH & OTHER STORIES ON AN L.A.-INSPIRED LINE.

WH EN WORKI NG ON A COLLECT ION,

Rodartes Kate and Laura Mulleavy admit they can become obsessive to the point
of insanity. They definitely had bouts of
crazy while creating their capsule line for
& Other Stories, which hits stores this
month. I think we had 300 conversations
about the Lurex yarn, says Kate, sporting

the coppery striped sweater that resulted.

Fortunately, the Swedish retailer, which eschews fast fashion for thoughtful design
at an accessible price, is just as meticulous.
& Other Stories is dedicated to making
things with integrity and workmanship,
Laura says. It allowed us to do what we
do best. The collection, which evokes the

louche spirt of 1970s Los Angeles, features

silk pajama tops, patchwork-leather skirts,
crushed-velvet evening pants, and a sequin
dress that, predictably, took a fair amount
of back-and-forth to get right. In the end,
thats what makes the pieces good, Kate
says. When you put love into something,
it comes out better.

Fowl Play

Of Rare Origins jade

and tagua Lovebirds
earrings ($1,810,
ofrareorigin.com).

218

wmag.com

Inspired by antique finds and hand-carved from uncommon materials, Of Rare Origins
witty and wildly imaginative creations are not easily categorized. The word jewelry
seems a bit too precious, says the lines designer, Leslie Tcheyan, a former consultant to
Verdura. I see them as artisanal miniatures. Certainly, theyre conversation starters.
Editors have lately been atwitter over the debut collection of birdcage earrings; equally
captivating flowerpot and hot airballoon stylesthe latter complete with diamond
burners and South Sea pearl sandbagsare in the pipeline. The challenge is taking
these cute things and creating beautiful objects out of them. ..
Photographs by BEN GRIEME Styled by ALEX HARRINGTON

HAIR BY TAMAS TUZES FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE AT LATELIER NYC; MAKEUP BY JUNKO KIOKA FOR CHANEL AT JOE MANAGEMENT; SET DESIGN: JULIA WAGNER; MODEL: CHLOE WHEATCROFT AT MUSE MANAGEMENT; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: BRIAN KANAGAKI; FASHION ASSISTANT:
MEGAN SORIA; CENTER: MODEL WEARS RODARTE & OTHER STORIES DRESS, TOP, AND TIGHTS. RIGHT: MODEL WEARS RODARTE & OTHER STORIES JACKET, SHIRT, AND SKIRT. FOWL PLAY: GORMAN STUDIO. FOR STORES, PRICES, AND MORE, GO TO WMAG.COM/WHERE-TO-BUY-MARCH-2016

WHATS HOT

WHATS HOT
Bathing Beauties
Quentin Jones, a British artist who has worked with Louis Vuitton and
Chanel, is applying her modern surrealist aesthetic to a range of swimsuits
for the boutique label Araks. Between Joness slapdash collages and graffiti
prints and designer Araks Yeramyans streamlined silhouettes, the eyecatching maillots are sure to make waves. ..

Araks x Quentin
Jones swimsuit
($320, araks.com).

PERFECT TEN
TO CELEBRATE HER ANNIVERSARY, JENNIFER FISHER IS TURNING UP THE CHARM.

Far left: Jennifer

Fisher, at her New
York showroom. Left:
Enamel pendant
and ring ($2,195
and $3,795,
Jennifer Fisher,
888.255.0640).

Portrait by VICTORIA WILL

AMERICAN SPIRIT
AS A T EENAGER I N PARIS I N T H E 90 S ,

Sandrine Rose Abessera spent her weekends scouring the citys famed flea markets
for the perfect American jeans. Two decades later, the designer, who lives in L.A.,
is launching Sandrine Rose, a denim line
that takes aesthetic cues from her travels.
A trip to Joshua Tree National Park, the
work of London ceramist Susan Nemeth,
and a T-shirt Abessera came across in
Mexico all informed the sunbaked washes
and vibrant embroideries. I take little
parts from everywhere, says Abessera, 38,
who includes an image of her inspiration
on the hangtags. Its a very free and fun
process.

220

wmag.com

From left:
A photo by
Abessera, taken
near Joshua
Tree, California;
Sandrine Rose
jeans ($278, Ron
Herman, L.A.).

ARAKS: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNER; JENNIFER FISHER JEWELRY: TIM HOUT; THRIFT STORE: COURTESY OF ABESSERA; JEANS: TIM HOUT, STYLED BY JOHN OLSON

T H E JEWELRY DESIGNER JENNI FER FISH ER

has long had an eye for bling and a mind for

business. At the age of 5, the California native
started a line of earrings made from buttons with
her babysitter while her parents were on a trip to
Europe. By the time they returned, she had business cards. I think Ive had eight companies so
far, notes Fisher, who studied business marketing
at the University of Southern California, in Los
Angeles, and now lives in New York. Indeed, the
eighth onewhich began with a dog tag necklace
she designed to commemorate the birth of her son,
Shanewas the charm. Fishers eponymous line
of customizable baubles turns 10 this year, and, to
mark the occasion, shes created a capsule collection of hand-painted enamel pendants, pinkie rings,
and stud earrings, all of which can be personalized
in various colors and motifs. I wanted to do something different, says Fisher, who until now has been
working mostly with gold and pav diamonds. But
something that also felt true to who I am. ..

HOME BODIES
Virgil Abloh
Virgil Abloh, who designs the luxe streetwear
brand Off-White, may only be five seasons into his
fashion career, but hes already diversifying.
He recently worked with an Italian manufacturer
on a limited-edition collection of furniture,
including an armchair, a marble-top dining table,
and a bench constructed from metal gridseach
piece grounded in the graphic aesthetic and
modernist principles of his clothes. With fashion,
you find solace in the quick ideas, Abloh says.
But for me, these are the real concrete ideas
something that lives in peoples homes.
Left: A look from
CristaSeyas sixth
fashion edition. Below:
A Giacomo Alessi
vase for CristaSeya.

Right: Off-Whites Virgil

Abloh, seated in his
Grid System chair, at
Expo Chicago.

Interior Motives

Sophie Buhai
After returning from New York to her
native L.A., the former Vena Cava
designer Sophie Buhai launched a line of
architectural jewelry and design objects,
like marble eggs and ikebana vases. I
dont like being put in a box, she says.
I feel very free doing this project; there
is no fashion calendar. If I dont want
to show a project, I dont have to.

CristaSeya
In real life, you dont change every six months, says
Keiko Seya, one half of the Parisian lifestyle project
CristaSeya. You want something you can keep
forever, something you can wear or use every day.
To that end, Seya and her design partner, the Italian
stylist Cristina Casini, have teamed up with artists
like the Sicilian ceramist Giacomo Alessi and the
Swiss knitwear brand Ikou Tschuss to produce a
variety of collectible objects such as upside-down
head vases and one-of-a kind indigo cushions, which
they sell alongside their simple, relaxed clothes. For
the next edition (they dont work in seasons), the two
have partnered with a Greek ceramist on a series of
vessels inspired by African braids.

Camilla Staerk

Above: A Sophie Buhai

hand-carved wood
sculpture. Right: Her
jewelry designs (2).

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wmag.com

Having taken a hiatus from her fashion brand,

Staerk, the Danish designer Camilla Staerk
reintroduced it in November with an
e-commerce site that offers not only her darkly
feminine clothing designs but also her home
collections, which include brass hangers,
hand-knit leather wall hangings, pendant lights,
and horn-inspired rugs made in collaboration
with the company Ege. I see the two as one,
says Staerk, whose family is rooted in the Danish
furniture industry. One vision, one business.

Above, left: Camilla

Staerks Finch rug.
Above: Pieces from
her spring 2016
collection.

Portrait by DANNY WILCOX FRAZIER

CRISTASEYA, SOPHIE BUHAI, AND CAMILLA STAERK: COURTESY OF THE DESIGNERS

AS THE FASHION CYCLE SPINS EVER FRENETICALLY,

A GROWING NUMBER OF YOUNG DESIGNERS
ARE FINDING RESPITE IN HOME COLLECTIONS.
ALICE CAVANAGH MEETS THE NEW CREW
OF MULTIDISCIPLINARIANS.

Shirt n
Sweet
PHOTOGRAPHS BY
EMMA TEMPEST
STYLED BY
ETHEL PARK

Above, from left: Guess

shirt; 3.1 Phillip Lim skirt;
Tibi skirt (underneath);
Stuart Weitzman shoes.
DKNY tunic; Massimo Dutti
culottes; Kate Spade New
York shoes.
Left: Serge Gainsbourg and
Jane Birkin, 1970. Right,
from left: A still from Ingmar
Bergmans Fanny and
Alexander, 1982; Diesel
Black Gold, spring 2016.

In case you didnt already know, the

white shirt is a wardrobe essential. But
to call it basic is to underestimate
the myriad ways it can be reimagined.
The spring collections offered an array
of interesting optionsamong them,
sleeve-wrapped strapless dresses at
Monse and deconstructed minis at
Jacquemus. Of course, you can also go
a simpler route and sport it like a
T-shirtas the models do on these
pageslayering it under a tank dress,
or throwing one on with a pair of
blue jeans. Somehow, the end result
always looks perfectly polished.

GAINSBOURG AND BIRKIN, DIESEL BLACK GOLD: GETTY IMAGES; FANNY AND ALEXANDER: COURTESY OF GAUMONT

FAST AND CHIC

Above, from left: H&M top;

Joie jeans. Joseph shirt;
H&M jeans. Left: Current/
Elliott shirt; Diesel
Black Gold pants; Fratelli
Rossetti sneakers.
Right, from left: Julia Roberts
in Pretty Woman, 1990;
Carolina Herrera, 2005; a look
from Joseph, spring 2016;
Lisa Bonet, 1987; Ellie
Kendrick and Carey Mulligan
in An Education, 2009.

PHOTO CREDIT TK HERE PHOTO

PRETTY WOMAN: COURTESY OF TOUCHSTONE PICTURES; HERRERA: MAT SZWAJKOS/GETTY IMAGES; BONET: CARSEY-WERNER/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; JOSEPH: VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY IMAGES; AN EDUCATION: KERRY BROWN/SONY PICTURES CLASSICS/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION

FAST AND CHIC

Above, from left: AG shirt; Karigam pants; Camper

shoes. Massimo Dutti shirt; Blumarine top
(underneath); Gap skirt; Jimmy Choo boots. Far
right, from left: Maxstudio.com shirt; Dsquared2
pants. G-Star shirt; Diesel Black Gold skirt.
For stores, prices, and more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
Right, from left: Beverly Johnson, 1973; a look from
Jacquemus, spring 2016; Charlotte Rampling, 1982.
Hair by Tamas Tuzes for Bumble and bumble;
makeup by Yumi Lee for Dior. Models: Jamilla
Hoogenboom at Women Management; Julia
Jamin at the Society Management.

DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: ALEX VERRON; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: MATTHEW WASH, CHRIS PARENTE; FASHION ASSISTANT: JACLYN ALEXANDRA COHEN; JOHNSON: BARBARA BERSELL; JACQUEMUS: VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO/GETTY IMAGES; RAMPLING: 20TH CENTURY FOX FILM CORP/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION

FAST AND CHIC

A Full Plait
FOR SPRING, HAIR IS FIT TO BE TIED.
Braids were the must-do at dozens of spring 2016 shows, from the schoolgirl plaits at Proenza Schouler to the laissez-faire
French styles at Suno to the bold cornrows at Valentino. Braids have become cool again, says the hairstylist Holli Smith,
who created the coifs on these pages. Theyre informal and more inventive than ever. Here, Smith took the Valentino look
as a starting point and added her own twist, in the form of a ponytail full of mini fishtails and micro braids, punctuated
by wide loops and partially liberated strands. Together, the two elements make for a balanced statement.
Anthony Vaccarello top; David Yurman earrings. Beauty note: For skin that steals the spotlight, try Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Cream SPF 30.

Photographs by DIEGO UCHITEL Styled by MICHELLE CAMERON

HAIR BY HOLLI SMITH FOR WELLA PROFESSIONALS AT LGA MANAGEMENT; MAKEUP BY FARA HOMIDI AT FRANK REPS; MANICURE BY DAWN STERLING FOR DIOR AT MAM-NYC; MODEL: HYUN JI SHIN AT
IMG MODELS; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: HUGO ARTURI; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: BASIL FAUCHER, CRISTIAS ROSAS; HAIR ASSISTANT: YASU NAKAMURA; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: LAILA HAYANI

LOOK OF THE MONTH

The messy deconstruction is

more interesting than two
perfect braids, Smith says.
Valentino

Proenza Schouler
Louis Vuitton

It keeps things from looking too slick. (To prevent hair from
turning into a tangled mess, theres Wella Professionals Eimi
Perfect Me Lightweight Beauty Balm Lotion, and a little
Eimi Sugar Lift Spray applied on the end imparts that gritty,
disheveled effect you actually do want.) Micro braids were
also seen at Louis Vuitton, though well hidden among the
models otherwise free-owing locks. Smith did exactly
the opposite here (above, left), weaving most of the hair into
two low plaits just behind the ears, then pulling out full strands
seemingly at random. The messy deconstruction is more
interesting than two perfect braids, Smith says. For the third
look (above, right), she began with a low side part and twisted
the strands before braiding them along the hairline, creating
a sort of corkscrewed cornrow. The placement has a Heidi
element, but the twists within the rows de-Heidi it. And, she
insists, its easier to execute than it looks. Anyone who can
French-braid their own hair can do this.

The Braidy Bunch

Through the Years
1969

1979

1980

1993

1993

Inger Nilsson
as Pippi
Longstocking

Bo Derek in 10

Donna Summer

Janet Jackson

Christina Ricci
as Wednesday
Addams

1994

2001

2005

2015

2015

Tonya Harding

Alicia Keys

Snoop Dogg

Emilia Clarke
as Daenerys
Targaryen

Zo Kravitz

Mara Hoffman
Vivetta

Top, from left: Calvin

Klein Collection top;
David Yurman earrings.
Balenciaga tank
top and scarf; David
Yurman earrings.
For stores, prices,
and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-tobuy-march-2016.

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Vanessa Seward

LOUIS VUITTON, MARA HOFFMAN, PROENZA SCHOULER, VANESSA SEWARD, VIVETTA, NILSSON, SUMMER, JACKSON, HARDING, KEYS, SNOOP DOGG, KRAVITZ: GETTY IMAGES; VALENTINO: GORUNWAY; DEREK:
ORION/COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; RICCI: MARY EVANS/PARAMOUNT PICTURES/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT COLLECTION; CLARKE: MACALL B. POLAY/HBO/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

LOOK OF THE MONTH

Lip Sync

Better Red

Urban Decay cofounder Wende Zomnir is my girl crush. She

heli-boards and calls a nine-mile run a short jog. In a way,
shes like a brunette Gwen Stefaniand, in fact, she and the
pop star are good friends and have collaborated on a makeup
collection that coincides with UDs 20th anniversary. It
features blush and eye shadow palettes, brow kits, and lip
pencils and lipsticks. Yes, the latter include a neutral shade,
but its the reds, like Spiderweb ($18, urbandecay.com),
shown on the model below, that truly rock.

Whatever the hue, lipstick

looks best on a pucker
thats well cared for. Start
here (below, clockwise,
from left):
Este Lauder New
Dimension Plump + Fill
Expert Lip Treatment
($42, esteelauder.com):
The light-diffusing serum
helps dene lips; the
conditioning balm leaves
them feeling plumper.
First Aid Beauty Ultra
Repair Intensive Lip Balm
($20, sephora.com): The
lush beeswax, honey, and
colloidal oatmeal in this
concoction soothe chapped
lips like nothing else.
Vaseline Lip Therapy
Tin ($4, target.com):
This pomade version of
the classic comes in four
avors. My fave? Aloe.
Patchology FlashPatch
Lip Gels ($50 for 25,
neimanmarcus.com):
Ever hear of bar code lip?
Five minutes with one of
these patches containing
peptide green-tea extract
and niacinamide makes
those lines harder to scan.

Talking Points

WHAT WS BEAUTY DIRECTOR,

JANE LARKWORTHY, IS
HOOKED ON THIS MONTH.

Vacation in a Bottle
The list of places I want to explore is constantly
growing. These scents are the next best thing to
hopping on a plane (right, from left).
Aerin Mediterranean Honeysuckle ($110,
nordstrom.com): Grapefruit, Italian bergamot,
and the namesake ower transport me to cocktails
on the terrace at the Belmond Hotel Splendido,
in Portono, Italy.
Clean Reserve Terra Woods ($90, sephora.com):
This woodsy geraniumandjasmine sambac mix is
what I imagine the Swedish archipelago will smell
like when I visit next year.
Memo Paris Marfa ($250, bergdorfgoodman.com):
White musk anchors this tuberose-andorange
blossom scent inspired by the artsy Texas border town.
The Fragrance Kitchen Palm Fiction ($320,
bergdorfgoodman.com): Bergamot, leather, and salt
notes invoke the lush wallpaper and chic banquettes
at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

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Cheekbones
Not Included
One of lifes unfair truths is that
Gwyneth Paltrow is even more
radiant in person than on the screen.
Fortunately, shes out to help us with her new
skincare line, Goop by Juice Beauty. (Shes
also the creative director of Juice Beautys
makeup collection.) I wanted to create what
I missed having in my bathroom, says Paltrow
(above), whose line taps the cells from poets
daffodil and iris to tackle wrinkles and
brighten skin. Theres a day moisturizer, a
night cream, an eye cream, a cleansing balm,
an exfoliating scrub, and a face oil (inset,
$110, goop.com). Im such a face-oil junkie,
she says, laughing. So this one had to be
the ultimate. We went through about 13 tries
before we got it right. If that glowing
complexion is any indication, she did.

Frank Advice
It seems I could use more
ubuntu in my life. Ubuntu
means altruism in Xhosa,
and author and integrativeholistic doctor Frank
Lipman says not having
enough of it could be one of
10 Reasons You Feel Old
and Get Fat ($25, Hay
House, bewell.com). His
book also has healthy recipes
and exercise tips, but rst
Ill conquer ubuntu.

LIP SYNC: CLAUDIA & STEFAN/TRUNK ARCHIVE; ILLUSTRATIONS: SINE JENSEN; PALTROW AND GOOP BY JUICE BEAUTY: COURTESY OF THE BRAND; BOOK: COURTESY OF HAY HOUSE INC.; PALM FICTION: COURTESY OF THE BRAND; ALL OTHER STILL LIFES: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

JANES ADDICTION

JANES ADDICTION
Stay Gold
Walking out of the salon with a fresh
head of highlights is like driving off the
lot with a new carthe value starts to
depreciate almost immediately. These
products help protect your investment.
Sachajuan Hair Cleansing Cream
($42, barneys.com): Sea algae and
vegetable-oil wax make for a foamand sulfate-free way to clean strands.
StriVectin Hair Color Care Vibrancy
Booster ($27, strivectin.com): Nia-114,
the energizing molecule in this brands
skincare, also stars in a hair-care
line, which includes a rinse-off glaze
that guards against UV rays.
Schwarzkopf Professional
BC Color Freeze Gloss Serum ($21,
loxabeauty.com): This serum seals
in pigment and reduces frizz.
Pantene Expert Intense Color Care
Conditioner ($5, pantene.com):
The companys fabled Pro-V Molecular
Technology protects color while
imparting softness.
BLNDN Tone You Anti-Brassiness
Treatment ($42, blndn.com):
This intense purple mask keeps
discoloration at bay.
LOral Paris Root Cover Up ($11,
lorealparis.com): A pointed nozzle
ensures that color goes only where you
want it: So no risk of hair-color freckles
on your faceor gunk in your scalp.

Crme de la Crme
As an haute couture house, Chanel
would never create a one-size-ts-all
face cream. It already offers the rich and
velvety Sublimage La Crme Texture
Suprme and La Crme Texture Fine,
which goes on like silk. But on my recent
visit to the Chanel labs outside Paris
(top), chemists explained how they saw
an opportunity to create yet another
texture for the collection, and voil!,
La Crme ($400, chanel.com)
think silk jerseywas born. The key
ingredient in all three is hydrating
and brightening Madagascar-grown
vanilla planifolia, but, if you ask me,
the newest formula is just right.

Im not a God-fearing person, but I do nd the smell of churches captivating. So I literally swooned
over Inspiritvs scents and candles. Having grown up in Italy, I have strong memories of being a
part of religious processions and of churches lled with candles and incense, says the lines cofounder
Luca Calvani, who in his day job as an actor has appeared in Woody Allens To Rome With Love and
Guy Ritchies The Man From U.N.C.L.E. Inspiritv alludes to in spirit in Latin, adds the fashion
guru Olivia Mariotti, his partner in the venture (both left). We all share a journey of self-discovery
and a quest for spiritual growth thats beyond any religion or belief. Each of the ve eau de parfums,
which come in ornately etched and painted ligree-capped bottles, celebrates a virtuethough, if you
ask me, a couple of them might qualify as vice. Temperantia, for example, is spicy, and Fortitvdo is a
bold cedar with animalic notes. LVX is heavy on the incense, but you dont have to have been raised
Catholic to appreciate it. As Mariotti points out, Incense is universal to any spiritual practice.
Amen to that. (Below: eau de parfums, $210 each, and candles, $130 each, barneys.com.)

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STAY GOLD: SONNY VANDEVELDE; TAKE ME TO CHURCH: ALESSANDRO MOGGI; ALL OTHER STILL LIFES: JOSEPHINE SCHIELE

Take Me to Church

THE REAL DEAL

Leap of Faith
PAUL JOHNSON DOESNT BELIEVE IN
EASY CHAIRS. ALIX BROWNE MEETS THE
HARDEST-WORKING MAN IN DESIGN.
THIS IS IT, PAUL JOHNSON SAYS, STANDING IN THE NAVE OF

Above, from left: Paul

Johnson at Woods
Cathedral, the
abandoned Detroit
church he bought at
a tax auction; the
nave of the cathedral;
the facade.

Woods Cathedral, a 100-year-old church in the La Salle Gardens

neighborhood of Detroit. It has been raining steadily for hours, and
a large puddle is making its way across the floor. Expanses of plaster
have fallen away from the ceiling, some 40 feet above, and, everywhere, the paint is peeling; most of the windows have been boarded
up. But the building, all 50,000 square feet of it, is in far better shape
than when Johnson bought it, sight unseen, for $6,700 at a tax auction in September 2014. At that point, it didnt even have a roof.
Abandoned since around 2007, the church had served variously
as an underground venue for the local techno scene, a playground
for vandals, and a platform for a giant altar-like guerrilla artwork
assembled from discarded chairs, pianos, televisions, sofas, tables,
pews, and assorted junk, appropriately titled Sunday Mass.
A dealer of high-end vintage and contemporary design based
in New York, Johnson, 41, has long had an appreciation for things
that others tend to steer clear ofand not only because he can get
them for cheap. Johnson grew up in a family of seven kids in Toronto, where his father owned a successful office-furniture company.
After getting a business degree at the University of Western Ontario, Johnson moved to New York, in 1999, and enrolled in the
design-management program at Pratt Institute but dropped out

after a year, as he likes to tell people, to study the flea market. If he

had a mentor then, it was the artist and legendary picker Robert
Loughlin, who in the 80s turned Andy Warhol and Jean-Michel
Basquiat, among others, onto retro design. Pickers are people who
find stuff, says Sandy Rower, the grandson of the artist Alexander
Calder and one of Johnsons biggest clients. They know what that
stuff is, and they buy it from people who dont know what it is, and
sell it to retailers. While most pickers had their niches, Loughlin had an insane eyehe could pick anything, Johnson recalls.
In 2002, while picking for the vintage-furniture shop Las Venus,
Johnson came across a credenza by Paul Evans, whose aggressive,
handmade metal furniture stood in contrast with the clean lines of
midcentury modernists like George Nelson and Charles and Ray
Eames, who were very much in vogue. Everybody hated Evans at
the time, Johnson says, adding that he knew the Eames craze was
going to play itself out eventually. I would drive around the whole
country, sleeping in my van, looking for any piece of Evans I could
find. People would ask me, You want that shit? Its yours. At the
Las Venus outpost at ABC Carpet & Home, in New York, he put
together an installation devoted entirely to Evanss Cityscape
seriessleek, mirrored pieces inspired by the Manhattan skyline.
The collector and gallerist Adam Lindemann, who had just bought

Photographs by JEREMY LIEBMAN

Counterclockwise, from near right: Jack Craig,

in his studio at Woods Cathedral; one of
Craigs PVC: Pressed side tables; Max Lamb at
work in Johnsons warehouse in Queens;
pieces from Lambs Man, Rock, Drill series;
Chris Schanck, with an Alufoil chair, in his
Detroit studio; the Detroit power substation
Johnson acquired sight unseen.

a house upstate, in Woodstock, happened to walk in. I asked Paul

to fill the whole house, Lindemann recalls.
Vintage is still a big part of Johnsons business, and pieces by established masters like Evans, George Nakashima, and J.B. Blunk
now command five or even six figures at auction. In the early
2000s, however, Johnson started working with the architects Rafael de Crdenas, and Benjamin Aranda and Chris Lasch, to
develop their own furniture; now he spends about 70 percent of
his time on contemporary design. Still, his taste and, more significantly, his M.O., have remained largely the same since his flea
market days. His current stablemost notably, the young British star Max Lamb, the Korean designer Kwangho Lee, and Chris
Schanck and Jack Craig, both based in Detroitare like Paul Evans 2.0. Their materials, including bronze, marble, and geode, tend
to be refined, but their output can be quite raw.
Schancks Alufoil pieceswelded-metal-pipe bases sprayed
with foam and then meticulously carved and foiled by hand before receiving a glossy lacquer finishare phenomenally labor
intensive, and each one is unique. The work was recently discovered by the architect Peter Marino, who commissioned Alufoil
benches for Dior boutiques around the globe. And early last year,
the designer William Sofield removed a Claude and FranoisXavier Lalanne desk and chair from the Tom Ford boutique on
New Yorks Madison Avenue and replaced them with an Alufoil console. Schanck drove all the way from Detroit in his truck
to deliver it personally. Its crazy, he says about dethroning the
Lalannes. Im not sure how I feel about that.
Johnson has had formal gallery spaces (in 2007, he opened Johnson Trading Gallery, on Greenwich Street in Manhattan); he has
taken triple booths at the Design Miami/Basel fair; and he has collaborated on shows with the contemporary art gallerists Thaddaeus
Ropac and Almine Rech. These days, his clients tend to be the type
of people who have Richard Serras in their yards. And yet, after
spending time with him, you get a sense that if tomorrow Johnson
had to sleep in his van, he would probably be okay with that. (His
wife, Hyunjung Lee, a designer and Kwangho Lees former studio mate in Seoul, and their two young children, would perhaps
be less okay with it.) Loughlin always told me, You are not one of
themdont confuse it, Johnson says, referring to the caliber of
person who can drop 10 grand on a chair without thinking twice.
Currently, Johnson operates out of two spaces, a warehouse in a
former movie theater in Queens, which is open only by appointment, and a storefront on Franklin Street, in TriBeCa. He opened
the latter without fanfare in April of last year, publicizing it only
on Instagram, with the hashtag jtgtribecagaragesale. Almost a year
later, it still doesnt have a sign on the door. Ive had shows where
we didnt even send out invitations, Johnson says with pride.
He did, however, manage to send out a notice for Man, Rock,
Drill, a solo exhibition of new work by Lamb in the TriBeCa
space in early November. Just days before the opening, Lamb
was camped out in Queens, working around the clock on the
collection of marble tables, stools, and chairs. (For the past couple of nights, he had slept in the warehouse on moving blankets
piled atop a $30,000 Nakashima bed frame.) Process-oriented to a
fault, Lamb makes every piece himself from start to finish, and, in
Johnson, he seems to have found a kindred spirit. The way Paul
operates his gallery is the way I operate my studio, Lamb says.
He does not want to present work that is guaranteed to sellor
he wouldnt be selling my work, or Chriss or Jacks.
Johnson first encountered Lamb in 2007, at Design Miami/
Basel; the theme that year was performance, and Lamb was among
a handful of designers who had been selected to create objects in
front of an audience. Lamb, who was fresh out of school and working for Tom Dixon, reproduced his pewter stool, which he had
originally cast on a beach. Johnson told him, Quit your jobIll
buy 12 stools and well worry about selling them later.
You might say that Woods Cathedral was a similar sort of impulse buy. I wanted to get more involved in Detroit; I knew I

needed to, says Johnson, who has since added a power substation
and a warehouse to his holdings there. And just as those Max
Lamb pewter stools found owners (Rower is the single largest collector of Lambs work), starting in April, Woods Cathedral will
have an occupant. Moran Bondaroff, the Los Angeles contemporary art gallery, will take it over for a year, kicking off a series of
gallery residencies around the world. According to co-owner Al
Moran, the idea was nascent until Johnson showed him photos of
the church. The space clinched it, he says. They made a gentlemans agreement that Johnson would fix the place up.
Johnson has also strongly encouraged his designers, no matter
what city they work in, to build security for themselves by investing in their own studios. For the moment, Craig is working out of
a side room in Woods Cathedral, where in late October it was already so cold we were forced to huddle around the torch he uses
to melt PVC pipe. Johnson plans to turn the warehouse over to
himas soon as he figures out how to dispose of the fleet of abandoned vintage cars and other junk he discovered stashed inside it.
For his part, Rower says he wishes that Johnson were more of a
businessman. Its hard to buy from me, Ive heard a lot of people
say, Johnson admits. Ive never pitched anything. I have no right
to tell anyone something is greatthey have to think its great.
Then they will pay for it. In some crucial way, Johnson may always be a picker at heart. Recently, Rower became enthralled
with 19th-century Venetian grotto furniture. After almost a twoyear search, Johnson finally found him a trophy chair: a seashell
on a pedestal base that looks like a relic from a Busby Berkeley under-the-sea extravaganza. I made $350 on that sale, but I
didnt care, Johnson says. I was so proud just to have found it.

Paul does not

want to present
work that is
guaranteed to sell,
says the designer
Max Lamb.

ON SET

STARRING
George Clooney
Josh Brolin
Tilda Swinton
Scarlett Johansson
Channing Tatum
Ralph Fiennes

OPENS
February 5

From top: George Clooney,

between Wayne Knight and
Jeff Lewis; Scarlett
Johansson and Joel Coen;
Josh Brolin and Tilda
Swinton; the swimmers in
the Coens version of
Million Dollar Mermaid.

Hail, Caesar!
BEHIND THE SCENES OF THE COEN
BROTHERS STAR-STUDDED ROMP
THROUGH OLD HOLLYWOOD.

Photographs by ALISON ROSA

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COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL PICTURES

A M O N G T H E T H U G S W H O H AV E R U N HOLLY WO OD FROM

the shadows, Eddie Mannix stood out as one of the first fixers at
MGM during the golden age of movies. In Hail, Caesar!, the latest comedy from Joel and Ethan Coen, Mannix, played by Josh
Brolin, is on the hunt for Baird Whitlock (George Clooney), a star
gone missing from the set of a Roman epic, as a pair of reporters
(both played by Tilda Swinton) sniff out the scandal. As Mannix
stomps around the studio lot, we see other films being made, as
well as their stars. In addition to Clooney, whos a dead ringer for
Tony Curtis in 1960s Spartacus, there is Channing Tatum dancing in a sailor suit reminiscent of Gene Kellys in 1945s Anchors
Aweigh; Scarlett Johansson wiggling underwater like Esther Williams in 1952s Million Dollar Mermaid; and Alden Ehrenreich as
a John Waynelike cowboy. It was fun to shoot, says Roger Deakins, the director of photography who has worked on more than a
dozen films with the Coens. We stayed true to the styles of the era,
but we didnt want to make an homage to filmmaking. The trick is
that it fits together as a whole.

Topshop coat; Prada sweater vest; Miu Miu tiara; CZ by Kenneth Jay Lane rings.

n a Wednesday night in mid-December, Selena Gomez was sequestered inside a cinder block dressing
room deep in the bowels of Chicagos Allstate Arena,
where she was performing at the annual Jingle Ball,
a yuletide-tinged Lollapalooza for the teen set. She
had just finished the meet and greet, during which
she embraced, with practiced efficiency and unflagging enthusiasm, around 100 fortunate attendees in
less than five minutes. She had two hours to kill before taking the stage. She was hungry. Having spent the better part of the day
at Gomezs side, I had come to understand her as someone governed by a variety of appetites, most of them complicated in ways that few of her fans (aka
Selenators, defined by the Urban Dictionary as people who love Selena Gomez and support her in everything she does) could relate to. We had already
spoken at considerable length about the cravings that have consumed her for
the past year: controlling her destiny, defining herself as an adult, and distancing herself from the emotional tornado that is her ex, Justin Bieber. At present,
however, Gomez sought a more primal form of sustenance.
Chick-fil-A, she said. How amazing does that sound?
She is a tiny young woman, giving the impression of being pocket-size,
who, in person, emits the coiled energy of a Thoroughbred and sheds much of
the adolescent softness that clings to her in red-carpet photographs, in which
she often looks like a doll. Her hair, thick and bouncy and the color of dark
chocolate, seemed, even in the windowless room, to be reflecting California
sunbeams. She was wearing a cotton-rib peplum top and matching skirt designed by Victoria Beckhaminformation I knew not because I am observant,
but because, while sitting next to her, I Googled What is Selena Gomez wearing? and discovered that the outfit was already being dissected on Twitter.
Surrounding her in the room were various members of her team: hair, makeup,
security, assistant. Using their cell phones, arguably the most critical weapon in
cultivating and disseminating the Gomez brand, they began searching for the
closest branch of the fast-food chain known for its tasty chicken sandwiches
and aggressive right-wing politics.
Theres one 40 minutes from here, her assistant, Theresa Mingus, said.
Yum, Gomez said.
Want me to go?
I want to go.
Well, you cant. You have to be onstage.
I just want to get out of here for a bit.
The urge was understandable. The room was cramped and very cold. More to
the point, Gomez, 23, has spent much of her life in such placesthe charmless
antechambers where the famous are primed for public consumption. She landed
her first gig at 7, on PBS Kids Barney & Friends, and by 14 was known to millions of prepubescent youths as Alex Russo, the sarcastic wizard-in-training
on Wizards of Waverly Place, a Disney show that ran for five years, reaching
163 countries. Emanating a cherubic beauty thats equal parts exotic and nonthreatening, with a streak of sass complementing a disarming vulnerability,
Gomez emerged, along with Disney cohorts Miley Cyrus and Demi Lovato,
as a new breed of star, harnessing a preternatural fluency with social media to
pollinate her brand across a number of platforms: television, music, film, and
the requisite midmarket clothing line (Dream Out Loud by Selena Gomez, a
partnership with Kmart). Gomezs success can be measured by her net worth,
reportedly around $20 million, but also, perhaps more tellingly, by her legions
of followers on Instagram. They currently number more than 60millionmore
than Kim, more than Bey, more than twice the population of the state of Texas,
where Gomez was born and raised.
And yet, if you are not an adolescent (or the parent of one), you may have
only a faint understanding of Gomez as a uniquely bright star in an otherwise
foreign solar system. She embodies a particular strain of American fame: You

know who she is without quite knowing who she is. Earlier in the day, she and
I had met in the penthouse lounge of her hotel, where I confessed that my familiarity with her rsum was limited. I knew her as the dewy-eyed girl who
dated Justin Bieber, and who costarred in 2013s Spring Breakers, Harmony
Korines debauched commentary on American values, in which her role was
deemed subversive precisely because she was the dewy-eyed girl who dated
Justin Bieber. Gomez was hardly offended. It seemed, in fact, that she had spent
much of the past few years not quite knowing who she was either.
Once Disney was over, I was like: Oh, shit, Gomez told me. I didnt know
what I wanted to be. I had to learn to be myself.
That was a challenge, given that her post-Disney years dovetailed with her
Bieber years, a topic Gomez referred to often and freely without ever mentioning his name. She did this not to be coy, I suspect, but because she assumed
(correctly) that the Internet had provided me with the salient details: the early
days of a very real and innocent love giving way to the on/off years that were
turbulent at best, soul-dismantling at worst. As Bieber reinvented himself as the
tattooed personification of pseudo-gangsta teenage rebellion, Gomez became
an unwitting bystander onto whom tabloids projected a variety of unsavory
narratives, feeding the nations insatiable need to see how long it takes for the
famous, and the young and famous in particular, to turn to ash under the rays
of lurid curiosity. At first I didnt care, she said of the sudden scrutiny of her
personal life. To me it was: Im 18, I have a boyfriend, we look cute together,
we like that. Then I got my heart broken and I cared. Because people had no
idea what was going on, but everywhere it was a million different things. She
paused. I was kind of in a corner, banging my head against the wall. I didnt
know where to go.
Gomez spoke with a kind of analytical detachment, like a therapist reading over the notes of a patient, never sounding remotely wounded or cynical,
so much as wise. While talking to her, I often had the sensation of trying, and
failing, to relate to a grown-up, which was odd since Im more than a decade
her senior and have seen my share of bullshit. Then again, my bullshit has been
mine and mine alone, and the cauldron of showbiz ages its charges in curious
ways. When Gomez was 18, for instance, she told a writer for this magazine
that the age she felt closest to was 15, which surprised me. Ive been raised
around adults, but Im still very naive, she said at the time, sounding like the
groomed and stunted product of the Disney tween machine. Reminding her
of this, I asked what age she related to now. I probably feel, like, 40? she replied, letting the thought linger before releasing a burst of throaty laughter.
As part of her quest to learn to be myself, Gomez has made a number of
changes in her life in the past couple of years. She replaced her manager, her
mom, Mandy Teefey, with one of her choosing, which was not easy, because it
gave tabloids an excuse to write that she had fired her mother, implying divisive family drama where there was none. I was like, Mom, I gotta figure it out
on my own, recalled Gomez, who lived with her mother, stepfather, and half
sister until 2014, when she moved into a Los Angeles spread with two close
friends. It was the kid-going-to-college moment in my mind. In pursuit of a
less treacly public image, she cut ties with Kmart and designed a capsule collection for Adidas, all while landing roles in diverse films: a cameo in The Big
Short, another in the forthcoming comedy Neighbors 2: Sorority Rising, and a
lead in the indie drama The Fundamentals of Caring, which recently premiered
at Sundance. I know that I can go into a room and convince someone that I
can be a character, Gomez said. Ill cut my hair, Ill shave it, Ill dye it. Id go
there in order for people to let Selena go. (Given that she recently signed an
endorsement deal with Pantene, reportedly worth $3 million, one imagines
she would be contractually bound to find a less drastic means to such ends.)
While Gomez aspires to one day be known solely for her acting, it is through
music that she has discovered the most immediate exit Continued on page 263

IM SO EXHAUSTED, GOMEZ
SAID OF JUSTIN BIEBER.
I HONESTLY AM SO DONE.
I CARE ABOUT HIS HEALTH
AND WELL-BEING. BUT
I CANT DO IT ANYMORE.

Norma Kamali swimsuit;

Chlo pants; Miu Miu tiara;
Giamba sunglasses; Prada
stole and Chanel belt from
A Second Chance, New
York; Chanel Fine Jewelry
bracelet; Gucci platforms.

Chanel pullover; Norma

Kamali swimsuit; Miu
Miu tiara; Elsa Peretti for
Tiffany & Co. bracelet;
Chanel belts from A Second
Chance, New York; Marc
Jacobs platforms; JJ Hat
Center hat. Beauty note:
Start trending with CND
Vinylux Weekly Polish
in Masquerade.

Miu Miu top, shirt, tiara,

and bag; La Perla
briefs; CZ by Kenneth
Jay Lane rings.

Chanel pullover; JJ
Hat Center hat.
Beauty note: Enjoy
some fringe benefits
with Marc Jacobs
Beauty Feather Noir
Ultra-Skinny
Lash-Discovering
Mascara.

strategy from the saccharine incubator in which her career was hatched. She
parted ways with Hollywood Records, the pop branch of Disney, where she had
recorded three gold records and issued a greatest-hits compilation, and signed
with Interscope. Last October she released Revival, a title that would be absurd for any other 20-something. Debuting at No. 1, the album earned her an
invitation to perform at the Victorias Secret fashion show and nudged her into
territory occupied by Rihanna, Katy Perry, and Taylor Swifther longtime
friend and informal career adviser. Unlike Cyrus, who slithered out of her own
Disney husk as brashly as possiblereplacing the purity rings with cigarettes
and transforming herself into a kind of gender-neutral sex dollGomez has
taken a subtler route. On Revival, she is frisky and sensual and a touch angry
about the Bieber-tinged past, declaring in the breakout single Same Old Love
that Im so sick of that same old love, that shit, it tears me up. But she remains goofy and sincere enough to avoid alienating fans who are still in braces.
Every single girl has done it completely differently, she told me when asked
to compare her transition with Cyruss. Obviously, she wouldnt want to be
doing what Im doing, and I wouldnt want to be doing what shes doing. But
Im a fan of her musicI dont know if shed say that about me. Before meeting Gomez, I had read an exhaustive timeline documenting her heated feud
with Cyrus and couldnt help but wonder if (scoop!) I was being treated to a sly
dig. We never feuded, she assured me. We both liked the same guy when we
were 16. It was just a Hilary DuffLindsay Lohan thing: Oh, my God, we like
the same boy! We are now completely settled in our own lives.
And what about Bieber? A month after Gomez put out Revival, he released
Purpose, a kind of album as indulgent forgiveness plea, with much of his winsome apologizing aimed at her. When I broached the subject, she replied with
a deep sigh. Im so exhausted, she said. I honestly am so done. I care about
his health and well-being. But I cant do it anymore.

n the dressing room at the arena, Gomez remained intent on finding food and temporary escape before going onstage and had taken
it upon herself to locate a more viable option.
Theres a McDonalds half a mile away, she announced after consulting Google Maps on her phone. Can we go there?
She was not really asking. With her new team, she is relaxed and
jokey, but she is very much in charge, the puppet master where she
was once the puppet. Within a minute, she and I, along with her assistant, were being ushered out of the stadium and into the frigid night,
where a black SUV had been stealthily summoned via walkie-talkiea spontaneous outing, carefully choreographed. Near the vehicle, a cluster of kids stood
shivering. Had they detected our exit the way canines can hear certain highpitched frequencies? At the sight of Gomez, they erupted into shrieks, using
their phones to take photos and videos to be uploaded onto Facebook, Snapchat, Instagram, and Twitter.
My favorite is when they FaceTime, Gomez said, waving to the group as
we passed.
It is impossible to overstate the importance of mobile technology and social media when it comes to understanding the Gomez phenomenon. She has
enough vocal chops to carry a candy pop anthem, and may very well prove herself an actress with range, but what she can do with unrivaled skill is connect. In
person, she radiates a sincerity so infectious that I found myself sharing with
her plenty of information about my personal life, which is exactly how she
communicates with fans, albeit with tens of millions all at once. In the process
of interacting with them, of course, she also diminishes the leechy power of
the paparazzi and gossip columnists to shape her public identity, guaranteeing
that whatever she posts will supersede anything else. Im utilizing social media
right now because of my age and because, to be honest, everybody else in the

IF YOURE SCANNING THIS

ARTICLE FOR SCOOPS,
HERE YOU GO: IN A FEW
YEARS, ILL GIVE UP ALL
SOCIAL MEDIA, SHE SAID.

world was talking about me, so I wanted a fucking say, she had told me earlier. I honestly had to, because I didnt really expect my life to be as public as
it was. Is this going to destroy me or make me? I still have to make that choice
on a daily basis. While she recognizes social media as a necessary tool for this
phase in her life, she is not wed to it. If youre skimming this article for scoops,
here you go: In a few years, she confided, Ill give all of it up.
As we made our way to the McDonalds, Gomez noticed a Chilis in the same
strip mall. Her eyes widened. Yesss! she said. I love Chilis. Taylor and I eat
here all the time. (They really dogo ahead, Google it.)
The SUV stopped. Her security detail hopped out first, scanning the restaurant and securing a table for us in a secluded corner. As we sat down,
Gomez, who was raised by a teenage mother and retains visceral recall of the
days when money was tight, was clearly in her element. I had to learn to like
fancy food, she said.
The restaurant was, for the most part, empty, but it didnt take long for other
diners to notice Gomezs presence. She was in full celebrity getup, a radiant
spectacle, and as we spoke, people made their way over, asking for selfies, for
autographs, for hugs. Gomez did not betray a trace of annoyance during those
repeated interruptions. She posed, she signed, she hugged, she related. I noted
that her fans seem oddly comfortable around her. Yeah, Gomez agreed. They
feel like they know me. Is this not a peculiar way to go through life? I guess
it is. But I dont mind it, because I dont know any better.
While waiting for our food, Gomez glanced at her phone. Oh, my God, she
said. Look at what my manager wants me to post. On the screen was a photo
of a generically hunky blond man sipping an orange soda. Hes my boyfriend
in my video for Hands to Myself, Gomez said, referring to one of Revivals
singles. It comes out next week. As a kind of viral teaser, her manager suggested that she share the photo. I was surprised, momentarily, that Gomez was
so casual when it came to exposing the calculated nature of such a ploy. But
then I realized that Gomez simply better grasps what everyone knows about
Instagram: that every post, on everyones feed, be it Kim Kardashians or your
mothers, is invariably contrived. The most authentic approach is to embrace
the inherent artificiality without overthinking it.
Chips and guacamole arrived, along with a melty vessel of cheese. Gomez
dug in, ravenous. No caption, nothing, Gomez said as she posted the photo.
Watchitll be crazy.
What did she mean, exactly, by crazy? Within 12 hours, the post had
received 1.2 million likes and had become an international story. On
Cosmopolitans website, the next morning: important question: who is
this hot mystery man on selena gomezs instagram? The Internet
ignited in speculation. Was he her new bae? Was Gomez trolling Bieber?
Her sleuthing fans were quick to reveal the man to be Christopher Mason, a
model whom Gomez had turned into a global fetish between bites of guacamole at a chain restaurant in the Midwest.
A half-hour later she was onstage, strutting around in a sequined catsuit, shot
back into the orbit from whence she came. We never got to say a proper goodbye. When we returned from Chilis, her performance had been bumped up
by 15 minutes, and her team descended upon her with focus: prepping, tweaking, adjusting. After getting a final glimpse of her leading a kind of prayer
circle with her dancers, I made my way out into the arena to watch the show.
Although I tried to keep my eyes trained on the actual Gomez onstage, with
whom Id just shared a meal that suddenly felt like a distant memory, I found
myself fixated on the Gomez filling up the two massive screens flanking her.
She seemed somehow more real in the projections, below which was a live Twitter feed telling me exactly what I should be feeling: Still not over the fact that
Im breathing the same air as @selenagomez.

Marc Jacobs
jacket, bra, briefs,
and boots; JJ Hat
Center hat. Beauty
note: Keep strands
under control with
Pantene Pro-V
Smooth AntiHumidity Air Spray.

Gucci dress and platforms;

Eres bra and briefs; JJ Hat
Center hat; Piers Atkinson
veil; CZ by Kenneth Jay Lane
rings. Beauty note: Chill out
with Neutrogena CoolDry Sport
Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50.

Hair by Shon for Bed Head

by Tigi at Julian Watson
Agency; makeup by Kabuki
for Dior at Kabukimagic;
manicure by Marisa
Carmichael for Formula X for
Sephora. Set design by
David White at Streeters.

PRODUCTION BY NORTH SIX; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: TADAAKI SHIBUYA; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: ALEX LOCKETT; LIGHTING ASSISTANTS: MARK LUCKASAVAGE, JUSTIN MCMAHN; POSTPRODUCTION TECHNICIAN: JIM ALEXANDROU; FASHION
ASSISTANT: TAYLOR KIM; HAIR ASSISTANT: RYUTA SAIGA; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: CAROLINE HERNANDEZ; SET-DESIGN ASSISTANT: BRIAN ELWELL; BEHIND THE SCENES VIDEOGRAPHY: TOMMY MOORE, JOHN COLLAZOS, PATRICK WILLIAMS

Alexander McQueen jacket;

Missoni bikini; JJ Hat
Center hat; Giamba
sunglasses; Prada neck
piece. For stores, prices,
and more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.

Standing in the shoes of style revolutionaries.

Photographs by Inez and Vinoodh
Styled by Edward Enninful

This page: Freckle-faced

tomboy Julia Hafstrom
bears a striking resemblance
to Sissy Spacek circa
her Badlands days in a
Philosophy di Lorenzo
Serafini shirt; Frame Denim
jeans; earrings from Doyle &
Doyle, New York; Cb Made
in Italy belt; Marc Jacobs
boots. Opposite: Cline
dress; Worth & Worth by
Orlando Palacios hat;
Marc Jacobs boots.

This page: No one could

play to the camera quite
like Veruschka, but
fellow German stunner
Alisa Ahmann comes
close in a Valentino
gown; Jill Heller Jewelry
earrings; Bulgari
bracelet. Opposite: Etro
vest, gown, choker (worn
as headband), and
boots; Verdura brooch.
Beauty note: Hit the
high points with Burberry
Spring/Summer 2016
Runway Palette in White.

This page: Beverly Johnson

was the first AfricanAmerican to appear on the
cover of Vogue. Here, Maria
Borges, who is making
waves of her own, channels
that barrier-breaking
beauty in a Gucci shirt,
skirt, and shoes; Eugenia
Kim hat; Movado watch
from Camilla Dietz
Bergeron, New York; Saint
Laurent by Hedi Slimane
bag. Opposite: Brandon
Maxwell jacket and
trousers; Gucci sunglasses;
Solange Azagury-Partridge
ring. Beauty note: Make
a statement with Giorgio
Armani Rouge dArmani
lipstick in Flamboyant.

This page: With her

glamorous-girl-nextdoor appeal, Gigi
Hadid might just be
a modern-day Patti
Hansen in a Marc
Jacobs blazer, blouse,
and platform pumps;
Max Mara trousers.
Opposite: Louis
Vuitton jumpsuit, bra,
necklace, and watch.

Saint Laurent by Hedi

Slimane dress; Louis
Vuitton bracelet. Beauty
note: Blush big with
Maybelline Master
Contour Face Contouring
Kit by Face Studio.

This page: A dark-maned

New Englander, Cameron
Russell embodies the
all-American allure of Ali
MacGraw in a Michael
Kors Collection turtleneck,
briefs, and bag; Yestadt
Millinery hat; Stuart
Weitzman sandals.
Opposite: Ralph Lauren
Collection dress and belt;
Delvaux bag; Cartier
watch; Bulgari ring.
Beauty note: Make waves
with Nexxus New York Dry
Shampoo Refreshing Mist.

This page: Model and

music-video vixen Lily
Aldridge plays up the
signature punk style of Patti
Smith in a Givenchy by
Riccardo Tisci trench and
trousers; Inez and Vinoodh
necklaces; Pyrrha rings.
Beauty note: Less is
more with Elizabeth Arden
Flawless Start Instant
Perfecting Primer.
Opposite: RVDK/Ronald
van der Kemp coat and
jeans; Michael Kors
Collection blouse; Saint
Laurent by Hedi Slimane
tie; (right hand, from top)
Mateo New York ring,
Pyrrha ring; (left hand)
Mateo New York ring.

This page: The smoldering

Adriana Lima is the spitting
image of the worlds first
supermodel, Janice
Dickinson, in a Chlo dress;
Nicholas Varney Jewels
ring; Sergio Rossi boots.
Opposite: Eres swimsuit.
Beauty note: Go for the
bronze with Maybelline
Eye Studio Color Tattoo
Concentrated Crayon
in Creamy Chocolate.

PRODUCTION BY THE COLLECTIVE SHIFT, VLM PRODUCTIONS. STUDIO MANAGER: MARC KROOP; LIGHTING DIRECTOR: JODOKUS DRIESSEN; DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: BRIAN ANDERSON; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: CHRIS DAVIS; STUDIO ASSISTANT: TUCKER BIRBILIS; PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: GEOFFREY BAPTISTE;
FASHION ASSISTANTS: RYANN FOULKE, DENA GIANNINI, SAM WALKER, ANITA LAU;. JEWELRY ASSISTANT: TINA HUYNH; HAIR ASSISTANTS: BILLY SCHAEDLER, KIRI YOSHIKI; MAKEUP ASSISTANTS: MONDO LEON, KENTO UTSUBO, JANESSA PARE, AYA WATANABE; MANICURE ASSISTANT: MICHELLE MATTHEWS

Salvatore Ferragamo dress;

Van Cleef & Arpels brooch.
For stores, prices, and
more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
Hair by Ward for Living
Proof at the Wall Group;
makeup by Yadim;
manicures by Deborah
Lippmann for Deborah
Lippmann. Models:
Adriana Lima and Alisa
Ahmann at the Society
Management; Gigi Hadid,
Lily Aldridge, Maria
Borges, and Julia Hafstrom
at IMG Models; Cameron
Russell at the Lions NY.

Clothes encounters on the streets of Detroit.

Photographs by Jamie Hawkesworth

Styled by Edward Enninful
Sittings editor: Ryann Foulke

Maria Di Cresce
wears a Detroit Vs
Everybody by
Tommey Walker
hat; her own jacket.

This page: Ann Zarras, a

student at Wayne State
University, wears her
own clothing. Beauty
note: Stop and smell the
tresses with Aveda Love
Composition Oil.
Opposite: Cody Kraft, a
student at Wayne State
University, wears a Boss
dress; Marc Jacobs
sneakers; his own socks.

Students from the Mosaic Youth

Theatre of Detroit after-school
program, clockwise, from top left:
Makenzie Davis wears her own dress
and earrings (throughout). Kania
Parker-Brown wears a Marc Jacobs
shirt; her own bow tie and Polo Ralph
Lauren sweater (throughout).
Rebecca Rose Mims wears a Theory
sleeveless top (throughout); Alexander
Wang pants. Jacob Smith wears a
Giorgio Armani shirt; his own tie, belt,
and pants. Nikolas Huey wears a Marc
Jacobs blazer; Alexander Wang shirt
(throughout). Jerrion Ricks wears his
own shirt (throughout). DMarreon
Alexander wears a Marc Jacobs shirt;
his own jacket, pants, and tie. Nyah
Pierson wears a DKNY sleeveless
shirt; and Kalifa Reynolds wears an
Alexander Wang shirt; her own jewelry.

Jamie Stamper, a
student at Wayne
State University, wears
a Rag & Bone dress;
her own necklace and
belt. Beauty note:
Talk the talk with MAC
Lipstick in Cyber.

This page: Kyra Dismuke

wears an Edun top; Vera
Wang Collection skirt; her
own shirt (underneath),
socks, and sneakers.
Opposite, from top:
Donovan Orr, a student
at Wayne State University,
wears a Yeezy Season2
jacket; Levis Vintage
Clothing T-shirt.
Rayshawnda Ashley Temple,
a student at Wayne State
University, wears a Boss top;
her own jeans and bracelet.

SPECIAL THANKS TO HAMTRAMCK ACADEMY, MOSAIC YOUTH THEATRE OF DETROIT, WAYNE STATE UNIVERSITY, DOWNTOWN BOXING GYM, SHINOLA DETROIT

This page: Willieann Huff

wears an Escada jacket and
pants; her own hat, earrings,
bag, and shoes. Opposite,
from left: Janeal Wills and
Kyle Dismuke wear their
own clothing. For stores,
prices, and more, go to
Wmag.com/where-to-buymarch-2016.
Local production: Dave
Krieger. Photography
assistant: Edward Horder.

Roll up that sleeve.

Its deconstruction time again.
Photographs by
Mario Sorrenti
Styled by
Melanie Ward
This page: Courrges top and bodysuit; Vetements
boots. Opposite: Jacquemus dress and shoes.

This page: Maison

Margiela jacket;
Dsquared2 top; Akris
skirt; Y/Project arm cuff.
Opposite: Hood by Air
jacket; Alberta Ferretti
dress; Walter Steiger
by Akris shoes. Beauty
note: Tone down the
punk with Lancme
Color Design Sensational
Effects Lipcolor in
Paris Please.

This page: Wanda

Nylon trenchcoat; Nili
Lotan dresses; Y/Project
neck cuff. Beauty note:
No need to hide from
the sun with Chanel
UV Essentiel MultiProtection Daily Defense
Sunscreen SPF 50.
Opposite: Tods shirt;
Y/Project neck cuff.

This page: Fendi

shorts. Beauty note:
Go for the glow with
RoC Multi Correxion
5-in-1 Chest,
Neck & Face Cream
SPF 30. Opposite:
Herms bodysuit,
skirt, and shoes.

This page: The Row

coat; J.W. Anderson bra
and trousers; Walter
Steiger by Akris shoes.
Opposite: Vetements
coat, bathing suit, and
skirt; stylists own belt.
Beauty note: Give hair a
jolt of color with Joico
InstaTint in Fiery Coral.

This page: Wanda Nylon

parka; Giorgio Armani
romper; Y/Project neck
cuff. Opposite: Burberry
jacket; Y/Project top and
trousers. Beauty note:
Streamline skincare
with Shiseido Synchro
Skin Lasting Liquid
Foundation SPF 20.

DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: XANNY HANDFIELD. LIGHTING TECHNICIAN: LARS BEAULIEU. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: JOHNNY VICARI, FELIX KIM, ZENITH RICHARDS. FASHION ASSISTANT: BEATRIZ MAUES.
SET DESIGN ASSISTANTS: THEO VOLPATTI, RYAN STENGER. HAIR ASSISTANT: ADLENA DIGNAM. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: TAYLER TREADWELL. SPECIAL THANKS TO SUNSET STUDIOS NY, NOZ CATERING

This page: Calvin Klein

Collection slip dress.
Opposite: Givenchy by
Riccardo Tisci dress. For
stores, prices, and
more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
Hair by James Pecis for
Oribe at D+V Management;
makeup by Aaron de Mey
at Art Partner; manicure by
Alicia Torello for Chanel at
the Wall Group. Model:
Ruth Bell at the Society
Management. Set design
by Philipp Haemmerle.

Stuart Vevers, with photographer

and Coach muse Frances Tulk-Hart
(second from right) and models.

U.S.A.
ALL THE
WAY

As Coach celebrates its 75th

anniversary, Stuart Vevers, an
Englishman obsessed with all things
American, is giving the classic
brand a cool new spin.
By Holly Brubach
Photographs by Chris Colls
Styled by Patrick Mackie

f all the public figures fashion designers have cited as

inspiration, Bruce Springsteen has got to be among the
most unlikely. Beat-up leather jacket, worn jeans and
a T-shirt, scuffed bootshe dresses like the guys he
sings about: solid types who work hard, spend Friday
nights in a bar, and wouldnt know taupe from mauve.
But Stuart Vevers, 42, the English designer charged with engineering a
reset at Coach, the American leather-goods house, looks at Springsteen and sees the distilled essence of stylea personal signature based
on clothes that are reliable and unself-conscious, with an integrity that
rises above the trends.
In the end, the choice of Springsteen as muse seems no more surprising than Coachs declared mission these days: to provide the world with
what Victor Luis, the companys president and CEO, calls American
luxurya term that not so long ago would have been dismissed as an
oxymoron. European, aristocratic, formal, rendered in precious materials, in limited quantities, luxury has traditionally come at a price high
enough to ensure that not many people could afford it. Exclusive is an
adjective you dont hear much anymore, but there was a time when it
was routinelyand unapologeticallybroadcast as a selling point. And
though political correctness has put a damper on its use in advertising,
the concept lies just beneath the polished and buffed surface of the most
prestigious brands.
American luxury still has a vaguely brazen, pretender-to-the-throne
kind of ring, as if the country that gave the world denim had suddenly
decided to dress up in brocade. The philosophy behind this strategy is
luxury without the elitism. Im not interested in making a lesser version
of European luxury, Vevers says. I want to make a different version of
luxurynot exclusive but inclusive, priced within the reach of many
more people. Where luxury has been a grown-up affair, Vevers celebrates
youth culture and its sense of unlimited possibility, which Americans of
all ages seem to consider their lifelong prerogative.
Since his arrival at Coach five seasons ago, Vevers has introduced
patchwork-leather baseball jackets, biker jackets, high-top sneakers, a
limited-edition collaboration with Peanuts, and silk peasant tops and
miniskirts in tiny floral prints reminiscent of everything from Little
House on the Prairie to Badlands. He thinks of the clothes as youthful,
not so much indicative of an age as of a frame of mind thats optimistic, with a disregard for the rules. Maybe the old codes arent relevant
anymore, he says. He seems an unassuming revolutionarytall, with
close-cropped red hair, dressed in a gray sweater and jeans, with a
thoughtful intensity and a kind demeanor. Ive been privileged to work
at some of the finest luxury brands at their highest moments, and the idea
of challenging that and doing something different and pushing things in
a new direction is exciting to me.
Born and raised in Doncaster, in South Yorkshire, the industrial north
of England, Vevers describes his background as modest, with parents who
left school at 15 and wanted something better for him and his younger
brother, Martin. At art school in nearby Carlisle, Vevers received a general training in architecture, fine arts, illustration, graphic design, and
fashion. At age 19, he moved to London to continue his fashion studies
and pursue a career. Part of that education, he claims, was immersion in
club culture. I just went out all the time, he says. Thats how I learned
about fashion and found out a lot about myself.
Vevers eventually landed stints at Bottega Veneta, Louis Vuitton,

Coach muse and actress Atlanta

de Cadenet Taylor (second from
right), with models.

The French have

chic, Vevers
says. Americans
have cool.

Opposite, from left: Coach muses

Tulk-Hart, DJ Kitty Cash, and
singer-songwriter Sophie Auster,
with models. All muses and models
wear Coach (throughout). For stores,
prices, and more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
Hair by Ben Skervin for Oribe at
Streeters; makeup by Frankie
Boyd for Dior at Tim Howard
Management. Set design by Stefan
Beckman at Exposure NY. Models:
Valery Kaufman and Harleth Kuusik
at the Society Management; Hyun Ji
Shin, Lameka Fox, and Madison
Stubbington at IMG Models.

Mulberry, and, most recently, Loewe, where he was tasked with revitalizing the
Madrid leather-goods house. In 2013, he was recruited by Coach. On the basis
of his rsum, he was an obvious choice, since he already understood leather.
But, more important, he also had an appreciation for the American Dream
uncomplicated by the backlog of disillusionment most of us have acquired in
the course of dealing with American reality.
For the five years preceding his arrival at Coach, Vevers took annual vacations in the United States, venturing on road trips, following the glamorous
examples of Bonnie and Clyde, Thelma and Louise, Peter Fonda and Dennis
Hopper. Well, not quite a road trip, he allows. Since he doesnt know how to
drive, he and a friend explored the country via Amtrak (which in this day and
age seems like an accomplishment). They would disembark at the most random places, sometimes on the basis of nothing more than the time of day. You
sleep on the train and then get off at 10 in the morning, and you just happen to
be in the middle of nowhere. And normally, the trains come maybe every couple of days, so you spend time in that place, then get back on the train at the
same time two days later. The adventures that ensued helped to shape his version of America, together with the mix of impressions formed by the American
music (the Beastie Boys, Janet Jackson) and movies (My Own Private Idaho,
Pretty in Pink, Manhattan) he loved growing up. Working Girl is one of my favorite films of all time, he says. I love the idea that anything is possible, that
you can achieve anything if you put your mind to it.

oach was founded in New York in 1941 as a small, family-owned

manufacturer of wallets and billfolds, with offices and a factory
on West 34th Street. Shortly after, Miles Cahn and his wife, Lillian, both of whom had a background in handbag production and
distribution, joined the company, and by 1950 they were running
it. Coach credits Miles with the idea of building a product line
around glove-tanned leather, then more commonly used for baseball mitts, processed to become softer and more supple with use. It was Lillian who suggested
that they branch out into bags for women. In 1962 they hired Bonnie Cashin, a
designer who was at the forefront of a new genre: American sportswear.
Cashin had a knack for reconciling the whimsical (vivid colors, contrasting
linings in madras plaid or raw silk) with the practical (bags within bags, bags
with an outer pocket for tickets, tips, or lists). In the first of a series of seasonal
brochures that spanned the 12 years Cashin steered the brand, Coach described

her style as elegant casual. Cashin announced the crusade she would wage on
behalf of busy women like herself, very much involved in activity outside of the
home, whose purses contained not only money but everything they needed to
be their own secretaries and beauticians. Her solution was a family of coordinated things for carrying things: wallets, junk sacs, coin purses, key holders,
notebooks, eyeglass cases, clutch bags, and even a flask, all of which fit inside
her Cashin Carry totes, modeled on a paper shopping bag and collapsible, for
packing flat in a suitcase.
The totes were a runaway success, so universally copied that Womens Wear
Daily quoted a rival manufacturer, who, apparently without qualms, declared,
Its the biggest bag in my line this season! By 1965, Coach was turning them
out in three sizes and 14 colors. The press was rhapsodic. She might have invented suburbia as a fashion influence, the Chicago Tribune asserted. I had not
talked to her for five minutes before I recognized that rare thingan individual with a point of view so passionately held that it amounts to a philosophy
for living, said a writer in the Belfast Telegraph.
In any number of ways, Cashin seems to have been ahead of her own time
and relevant to ours, with innovations we now take for granted as part of
fashions standard vocabulary. She made creative use of industrial chain. She
devised a turn lockinspired, she claimed, by the fasteners on the cover for a
convertiblewhich became the brands signature hardware, identifying a product as Coach without a logo or a visible label. She urged women not to choose
black (though Coach offered it) just because it would go with everythinga
fashion strategy she condemned as pure dulland to resist buying items to
match, opting instead for colors that would harmonize.
Before the thirst for luxury became epidemic in the 1980s, Coach was a brand
that everyday Americans aspired to. Luis recalls first seeing the companys ads
in The New Yorker and wondering when he graduated from high school whether
he could afford a Coach briefcase. (He didnt get the briefcase, but he did receive
a Coach wallet in college as a gift.) Coach has the virtue of having figured in the
lives of an especially broad customer base over the course of several generations,
for whom the brand remains enshrined in memoryand that is something a
company cant buy.
This spring, as part of its 75th anniversary celebration, Coach will offer a selection of refurbished vintage bags with Paddle8, the online auction house. Coach
stores now reference New York, with giant black and white photos of the city
proclaiming the brands hometown (a new flagship opens this year on Fifth Avenue). There is still a workroom on the premises at the companys headquarters,
on West 34th Street, staffed by five master craftsmen and eight patternmakers
from a half-dozen countries, whom Massimiliano Arbo, the Florentine who
oversees them, describes with pride as an extension of the design team. The
company will soon move from its original building to a new tower overlooking the High Line, in Chelsea, but for the time being the archives are housed
in a climate-controlled basement room, where Jed Winokur, the brands archivist, tends to a selection of bags and other products. Displayed in glass cases
are items dating from the 1940s to last season, and, apart from a few relics of
their particular eras (a transistor radio case, a desktop lighter), most are sufficiently classic that they are difficult to date. There are mens dopp kits, attach
cases, overnight bags. Cashins collections are easily identified by their colors
and contrasting linings. By the mid-70s shes gone, and the palette turns earthtoned; the bags become less structured, more bohemian. In the 80s theres a
bag commissioned as part of the uniform for United Airlines flight attendants.
And then come bags in exotic skins, needlepoint, jacquard woven with a
signature C, as, in 1996, Coach branched out under Reed Krakoff s direction.
There are new items (a dog carrier) and collaborations with artists (Laurie
Simmons, James Nares). Together, Krakoff and Lew Frankfort, then chairman
and CEO, steered Coach into territory it would eventually share with Michael
Kors and other brands that might not qualify as luxury in the mind of the industry observer whose attention is trained on the top tier of the market but that
nonetheless represent something valuable and desirable for their own following. There were people who aspired to Coach, and then there were those who

DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: MIKE BOGART; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: DEAN PODMORE, JIMI FRANKLIN; FASHION ASSISTANT: KARLY GRAWIN

aspired to Herms or Gucci or any number of other designer brands. Now

Luis and Vevers want those people, too, and they aim to get them not by raising prices but by creating products with a cool factor.
The French have chic, Vevers says. Americans have cool. Its in their psyche.
Like bikerits eternally cool. Im playing with things that we already know
and have a nostalgia for, but Im putting them together in a way that feels fresh.
With Vevers, Coach is making the move from accessories brand with occasional
outerwear to full-range fashion house, with mens and womens clothing and
shoes, shown on a runway. He has intentionally avoided creating a total look
that might be construed as the Coach silhouetteinstead, the collection is
a group of loosely related items that can stand on their own or work together,
with no agenda beyond enjoying fashion. In an era that fetishizes handbags,
he has scored big with the Swagger Bag, currently being spun out in an array
of four sizes, new materials, and contrasting three-color combinations. Vevers
took the name from Canadian skateboarders he follows on Instagram.
The brands history and its heritage are, he claims, a touchstone, but in the
end, his goal is to make something completely contemporary. For fall, he designed a group titled Super Vintage; the pieces looked like they might have
been Coach, from an indeterminate past that he invented. We all have nostalgia for things that arent necessarily there, for things that arent real, Vevers
says. So its a fictional nostalgia sometimes. Similarly, the flagship stores will
house an area thats a throwback to an era that never was, where leather craftsmen, wearing aprons that Vevers designed, repair and refurbish customers own
Coach bagsa service that used to be performed out of sight, in the factory,
with a weeks-long wait; they also monogram and personalize new bags. In a
gesture that seems a flashback to some more ceremonious time, salespeople
place the bag youve asked to see on suede mats they unfold on the countertop.
Coach today is a brand that seems to be speaking with a single voicenot
Veverss voice but the voice of consensus on the part of his team. At a midDecember review of samples for the spring mens collection, a dozen members of
the design studio gather around a table too small to seat them all. Vevers, restless,
moves from a seat at the table to another along the windows, at times standing,
as if to view the coats from a distance, the way a passerby might see them on the
street, or sitting on the floor to examine the shoes up close. Keith Warren, the director of womens ready-to-wear, whose English accent echoes Veverss, occupies
the seat closest to the fit model, as designers for different categories present their
progress, beginning with Tony Ngo, the senior director of mens ready-to-wear.

A lightweight zip-front shearling bomber jacket with rectangular patches: The

collar is too small, Ngo says preemptively. Vevers: Its a cute thing, though.
Warren wonders if a tighter vintage fit might be betterIm thinking Bruce
Springsteen in the 70s. Because thats what gives it personality. Otherwise, it just
turns into a mushy luxury product.
Were Springsteen to wander in, he would need a translator to help him interpret all the references ricocheting around the room. Giorgio Armani, Prada,
PF Flyers: Any resemblance to these is to be avoided. L.L. Bean: This is fine.
Warren pronounces one enormous jacket daft Patagonia, which is good.
A blue plaid mohair sweater and a matching cardiganlike a twinset for
menfollows. A woman sitting away from the table suggests that they might
be good for girls too. A blonde wearing glasses, green nail polish, and suspenders agrees: I like guys sweaters. Theyre much more flattering. Vevers has
brought an approach that back in the 70s would have been labeled unisex,
with certain styles made in a broad range of sizes, for both men and women.
A comparison of three boots brings on a brief brand-identity crisis, as Warren
wonders aloud, Is it too basic? I dont know where our personality comes in.
Vevers asks whether the leather should be sanded? Treated? To me, it looks a
bit poor, Warren says. I dont mind unlined, Vevers replies. But it needs to be
more than well made; it has to be thought through. Laura Santisi, who heads
the team for shoes, chimes in: We were all attracted to the beat-up one. It just
looks like something Bruce Springsteen should wear.
Though Vevers came to Springsteens music in the late 80s, he now finds
himself listening more to the mid-70s classics like Born to Run. He describes
himself as an obsessive pop fan. Music for him is more than entertainment.
Theres some kind of relationship between what I love in music and what I
love in fashion. People can be very dismissive of a three-minute pop record.
But I think the perfect song can be the kind of thing that stays with you your
whole lifelike the music you heard when you first kissed, like your favorite
piece of clothing growing up.
He tries out a leather backpack with lacing and a woven pocket, mashing
it to test its shape. I dont know about you, he says to the assembled team,
but for me, it doesnt do what was in my head. Its too sophisticated and polite. Various members attempt to zero in on exactly whats wrong with it, but
no one can figure out how to save it, and in the end it dies for lack of enthusiasm, a casualty of the editing process. If Springsteen carried a backpack, it
wouldnt be this one.

The workaday pantsuit is having

a serious fashion moment.
Photographs by Patrick Demarchelier
Styled by Giovanna Battaglia

This page: Gucci jacket,

shirt, pants, and pin;
(right hand) David
Yurman ring; (left hand)
Gucci rings; Thomas
Pink tie. Opposite: Cline
jacket, top, and pants;
Chopard earrings; (from
left) ring from Doyle &
Doyle, New York,
Nicholas Varney Jewels
ring, ring from Doyle &
Doyle, New York.

This page: Sonia Rykiel

blouse and pants; Rochas
blouse (underneath);
Sabbadini earrings; David
Webb brooch; Ara Vartanian
rings. Beauty note: Set
the tone for glowing skin
with SK-II R.N.A. Power
Essence. Opposite: Diane
von Furstenberg jacket
and pants; Lanvin top with
necktie, and bra; David
Webb brooch; Giorgio
Armani belt; (right hand)
de Grisogono ring; (left
hand, from left) Sylva & Cie
ring, Ara Vartanian ring,
Sylva & Cie ring; Laurence
Dacade pumps.

This page: Chanel jacket

and pants; Marina B
collar necklace; Marc
Jacobs shoes. Opposite:
Etro jacket and trousers;
Self-Portrait top;
Kimberly McDonald
earrings; Verdura brooch;
Chopard rings; stylists
own scarf. Beauty note:
Amp up the rock-star
look with Sephora
Collection I Love Cushion
Eyeliner in Ultra Black.

This page: Versace jacket and

trousers; Rochas shirt; Lorraine
Schwartz earrings; (right hand,
from left) David Webb ring, ring
from Fred Leighton, New York;
(left hand, from left) ring from
Fred Leighton, New York, David
Webb ring; stylists own collar
netting. Opposite: Bottega Veneta
jacket, shirt, pants, and belt;
Silvia Furmanovich earrings;
(right hand) Arman Sarkisyan
ring; (left hand, from top) Arik
Kastan rings, Andrea Fohrman
ring; Miu Miu shoes; stylists own
scarf. For stores, prices, and
more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.
Hair by Teddy Charles at the Wall
Group; makeup by Gucci
Westman; manicure by Rieko
Okusa for Chanel. Model: Grace
Hartzel at Next Management.

DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: EVAN LEE. PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: MARGARET GIBBONS, ROBERT MASSMAN, JAMES CLARKE. FASHION ASSISTANTS: MECCA JAMES-WILLIAMS, MIRANDA SCIOSCIA, CHELA MITCHELL. HAIR ASSISTANT: SHIMANO NORIYASU. MAKEUP ASSISTANT: RYO KURAMOTO

HIGH AND
ARTY
Aspen has long been a playground for the rich and
powerful, but now, thanks to a group of spirited
collectors, it is also an art mecca. Rob Haskell takes a
tour. Photographs by Matthias Vriens-McGrath
ts hard to pinpoint precisely how or when Aspen became one of the art worlds seats of power, but
its easy to understand why it did. Big money draws big money, Jan Greenberg, a St. Louis author
and collector, tells me, setting a plate of brownies beside a Louise Bourgeois sculpture on the coffee
table in the living room of her Aspen residence, which was designed by the Bauhaus master Herbert
Bayer. At least 50 billionaires own homes in or around Aspen, a fact that would have grieved, but not
shocked, the towns founding mother, Elizabeth Paepcke. It has been 77 years since Paepcke, a Chicago philanthropist known as Pussy to her near and dear, discovered the faded silver-mining town while
on a skiing expedition andby later establishing both the Aspen Music Festival and the Aspen Institute
turned it into a high-minded destination for artists and intellectuals. By the 1980s, new fortunes had arrived,
mountain castles had been built. Paepcke looked upon it all with horror.
Whatever the towns excesses, its the cultural riches, laid out in particular abundance during the summer
season, that still make Aspen unique among the gilded playgrounds around the globe. The billionaires who
frequent this exclusive hamlet, with names like Koch, Lauder, Abramovich, and Cisneros, sit on the boards
of the countrys most significant cultural institutions. Where else can you wake up, go hiking, do Pilates,
attend a lecture, play tennis, and go on another hike, all in one day? asks Gabriela Garza, a Mexico City collector, who on the morning we meet has already attended a talk by the acclaimed author Walter Isaacson
about Leonardo da Vinci and is back home preparing to host a dinner for Adam Weinberg, the director of
the Whitney Museum of American Art. Across town, Jane and Marc Nathanson, liberal Democrats from
Los Angeles, had John McCain over for breakfast at their soaring chalet before attending his talkabout
homeland securityat the Aspen Institute. Jan Greenberg and her husband, Ronald, meanwhile, are on their
way to hear cello virtuosa Alisa Weilerstein perform a program of Sergei Prokofiev.
From the jazz festival to the film festival to the ballet to the institute, Ive never had a boring moment
here, says Nancy Magoon, who seems to have a talent for averting boring moments: She once persuaded
Andy Warhol to paint her portrait at 3 a.m., after a party in Miami. Jane Nathanson, who has been skiing in
Aspen for more than 50 years, concedes that it is no longer Paepckes genteel mountain retreat. Maybe the
new group does things differently, she says, wryly. The few WASPs left here were aghast when Stewart and
Lynda Resnick offered to fix and rename Paepcke Auditorium, which was falling apart. But I think in time,
the old guard saw that the new was just as committed to the intellectual culture of the town.
Indeed, Aspen owes a considerable debt to a vigorous group of collectors who, despite their contrasting tastes
and temperaments, have worked to make the place a contemporary art mecca. They are, in their way, a team.
Theres a sense of connectedness among the women here that Ive never felt in Greenwich or New York, says
Jennifer Blei Stockman, the president of the Guggenheim board and a passionate supporter of Anderson Ranch
Arts Center, a nearly 50-year-old institution in nearby Snowmass Village that offers workshops and artist residencies on its sprawling campus. The elegant Aspen Art Museum and the crunchier Anderson Ranch stand as
the pillars of contemporary art in Colorados Rocky Mountains. A decade ago, when Heidi Zuckerman became
the CEO and director of the Aspen Art Museum, things got rolling. The museum moved from a modest location by the river to a sleek new building designed by the Pritzker Prizewinning architect Shigeru Ban; a huge
gift from the money manager John Phelan and his wife, Amy, made it admission-free in perpetuity. Though the
museum remains, essentially, a kunsthalle, with no permanent collection, Zuckerman has steered its programming toward cutting-edge and often challenging art. She came, and our universe changed, as Greenberg puts it.
But Zuckerman insists that Aspen was more than ready for her. I felt like I had moved to a land where
everyone spoke my language, where I didnt need to explain anything, she says. People here have a high level
of confidence, an appetite for extreme ideas.
Magoon, who was on the search committee that brought Zuckerman to Aspen from the Berkeley Art Museum, agrees. When it comes to art, there are no sheep, no followers here, she says. Its not a place where
one person buys an Ed Ruscha and then everyone buys an Ed Ruscha. Truth be told, in these parts there
may be no work more popular than a Ruscha mountain painting. And yet, however coveted, such canvases
offer no match for the genuine article. Allison Kanders, a New York collector who built a Charles Gwathmey
designed house a few years ago, puts it plainly: I think all of us believe that Aspen itself is the greatest work
of art. On that, Paepcke would have agreed.

Nancy Magoon, with

Tom Friedmans
Circle Dance, 2010.
Dolce & Gabbana
cape, dress, and
earrings; Valentino
Garavani heels.

Nancy Magoon
The moment you reach the doorstep of Nancy and Bob Magoons Aspen chalet, Tony Ourslers sinister basso, piped through
hidden speakers, commands you to get off the property. Its the installation-art version of my grandmothers greeting, Nobodys home, please leave, says Nancy Magoon, flanked by her two black labs, Frida Kahlo and Damien Hirst. Humorfrom a
Chapman brothers Hamburglar sculpture to a David Shrigley 2012 linocut print that reads, simply,
is essential to the Magoons highly personal and fearless collection. It embraces prehistoric Anasazi pottery, Egyptian
sarcophagi covers, modernist furniture, and African-American art. Sex is another theme: The Magoons, year-round residents
ever since Bob closed his Miami ophthalmology practice, sleep under Tracey Emins 1998 Garden of Horror, which celebrates the
pleasures of rear entry; Bob likes to joke that he was the model for the cast silicone-and-rubber penises in Tim Noble and Sue
Websters 2009 Bloody Haemorrhaging Narcissus, a piece cast from the artists body parts. The sculpture garden, with its 90-mile
views of the mountains, includes an assemblage of discarded water heaters by Nancy Rubins. Our neighbors tried to sue us over
that one, Magoon says. I told them the artist takes old mobile homes out of trailer parks, too. Ill put one of them here next.

On Park Avenue,
you see the
ubiquitous art
checklist, Kanders
says. In Aspen,
the collections are
more personal.
Gabriela Garza
With tousled hair, ripped jeans, and a flannel shirt offering a Coloradan counterpoint to her studded Azzedine Alaa shoes, Gabriela Garza is certainly among
the worlds most stylish grandmas. She is also one of the worlds major new-art
patrons. If you want to dabble, fine, she says, perched on a red velvet Jean Royre sofa facing the emerald flank of Aspen Mountain. If you need a trophy, you
can buy it. If you want to invest, its a good investment. For me, its the pleasure
of learning. Garza, who resides in Mexico City with her husband, Ramiro, a
gas-and-oil magnate, got the bug 15 years ago, when an Antoni Tpies painting
caught her eye. Her collection includes works by Jeff Koons, Gabriel Orozco,
and Lawrence Weiner and is anchored, in Mexico City, by a major Cy Twombly painting. People always say, I only buy this or that, she muses. For us, its
a decision made in the moment, emotionally. Garza and her family have been
visiting Aspen for more than two decades, and friends love to come over for
her cooks exceptional moles. In my opinion, were the best restaurant in town.

Allison Kanders
New York City goes to the Hamptons, Allison Kanders says. But everybody comes to Aspen. Whereas you go up and down Park Avenue and you see
the ubiquitous checklist, here the art collections are more personal. Kanders
and her husband, Warren, an investor, spend the summer and winter seasons in a modernist aerie with views of the Maroon Bells, Colorados most
photographed peaks. It is among the last private homes designed by Charles
Gwathmey, whom Allison had to nudge away from curvilinear surfaces so
that she could hang more art. A Sol LeWitt wall drawing faces a giant Rudolf
Stingel canvas in the living room, with Paul McCarthys candy-pink sculpture of a little girl in between. (Tame, she says of the McCarthy, for a man
who did George W. Bush sodomizing a pig.) Kanders, who bought her first
artwork, a Louise Lawler photograph, when she was 21, warms to pieces that
are just provocative enough. You get bored otherwise.

Opposite: Gabriela
Garza, on a Jean
Royre sofa; behind
her is Richard Princes
Nurse in Hollywood,
2003. Lanvin dress
and boots.
This page: Allison
Kanders, flanked by,
from left, Rachel
Harrisons Walk This
Way, 2007, and Paul
McCarthys Mimi,
20062008. Stella
McCartney dress.

Eleanore De Sole
As my mother used to say, Water seeks its own level. Thats how Eleanore
De Sole explains the convergence of art lovers on the slopes that she and her
husband, Domenico, the executive chairman of Tom Ford International and
chairman of the Sothebys board of directors, have been visiting for more than 30
years. But the De Soles quiet, utterly sophisticated collection is unlike any other
in the area. It consists of a mix of Abstract Expressionism and Minimalism, as
well as Italian modernist paintingincluding four works by Lucio Fontana and
one by Piero Manzonito which the couple was introduced by the auctioneer
Simon de Pury when they were living in Florence in the 1990s during Domenicos stint as president and CEO of Gucci. Domenico and I have what you might
call a simple eye. Were a bit more laid-back and subtle, and Ill give you another
example of that: We live in Snowmass Village, Eleanore says, referring to Aspens slightly less flashy neighbor. The De Soles, avid sailors who when not in
Aspen can be found in Hilton Head, South Carolina, say they never buy art unless they are in perfect accord, and they have never sold anything. Never, ever,
she says. Theres always another wall.

Below: Eleanore De Sole,

with Lucio Fontanas
Concetto Spaziale, Attese,
1966. Tom Ford dress.
Right: Jennifer Blei
Stockman, in front of
Christopher Wools
Untitled, 2007; on left is
Aaron Currys Am EFK,
2012, and right, Rirkrit
Tiravanijas mirrored
Untitled (The Days of This
Society Is Numbered),
2013. Seen reflected is
John Baldessaris Noses &
Ears, Etc. (Part Two),
2006. Dior dress; Jimmy
Choo pumps.

We have never
sold anything,
De Sole says.
Never, ever.
Theres always
another wall.

Jennifer Blei Stockman

In a town where the Aspen Art Museum gets most of the love and nearly all the money, Jennifer Blei Stockman goes to bat
for Anderson Ranch Arts Center, which honored her and her husband, David, and the artist Frank Stella at last summers gala.
(David was the director of the Office of Management and Budget under Ronald Reagan, who, Jennifer likes to point out, rather
famously called for a 50 percent cut to the National Endowment for the Arts budget.) Their collection is heavy on photography, but lately they have delved into painting and sculpture. Ive always been attracted to art that is more psychological, she
says, which is why you wont see any Koons or Hirst here. Cindy Sherman, Louise Bourgeois, Christopher Wool, and Sigmar
Polke are among the artists whose work she collects in depth. Stockman, who bears a striking resemblance to a young Faye
Dunaway, is producing a documentary on how globalization and Internet exposure have affected the art world. Honestly, Im
more of a spirit with artists than with anyone else in the art world.

We had to
remove the
wainscoting to
accept the
Baldessari, but
I like that
juxtaposition,
Crown says.
Opposite: Jane Nathanson, in
front of Anish Kapoors
Untitled, 2013. Chanel dress
and shoes; Fogal tights.
This page: Nancy Crown, with
John Baldessaris Pink Shapes
(in Mountainscape) Above
Two Figures With Object, 1990.
Dior top, skirt, and boots.

Jane Nathanson

Nancy Crown

Jane Nathanson, a licensed therapist, and her investor husband, Marc, have been
coming to Aspen since the early 60s, when they met at the University of Denver.
Back then, they slept in a motel, but nowadays they rest their heads in a log cabin
built of timber rescued from a Yosemite fire, made groovy with a sea of shag carpeting and assorted Warhols. (Their primary residence is a Frank Lloyd Wright
house in Los Angeless Holmby Hills.) Jane grew up on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan, where her parents collected Impressionist works. They encouraged me
to paint, but the only person who bought my work was my father, she quips. Jane
and Marc started buying art in New York in the early 1970s. We got a Warhol
soup can for $1,000when you could afford that stuff. Now its a hobby for the
very rich. While their masterpiecesa big Warhol double Elvis and a Matisse
once owned by the author W. Somerset Maughamhang in L.A., the Aspen
house skews contemporary, with works by Anish Kapoor, Marilyn Minter, and
Gregory Crewdson. The view outside, of the adjacent North Star Nature Preserve with its colony of great blue herons, is no less impressive. People ask if we
should have a sculpture out there. I think a tree is nicer.

I think of many of the other women as mentors, says Nancy Crown, who
is the first to admit that her collection is not yet in the league of those of her
Aspen friends. The Crown collection is not likely to stay in the shadows for
long, however. Though based in Winnetka, Illinois, the family owns the Aspen Skiing Company, one of the towns biggest businesses. In Nancy and her
husband Stevens rather formal stone house in Aspen Highlands, close to the
more extreme snowboarding terrain their sons favor, the Richard Serra works
on paper in the living room look chic against the traditional David Easton
decor. We had to remove the wainscoting in the foyer to accept the John
Baldessari, but I like that juxtaposition, says Crown, a Whitney board member
since 2011. The couples growing trove mixes midcentury giants like Ellsworth
Kelly, Richard Diebenkorn, and Bridget Riley with midcareer masters such
as Christopher Wool and Wade Guyton, whom Crown calls a friend. Collecting has been such a rich experience for metraveling with other trustees,
getting to know artists, watching their careers blossom. Living with the art is
only part of the joy.

When we
began
collecting, we
bought safe
things, Phelan
says. But soon
that felt like my
grandparents.
This page: Jan Greenberg, wearing
her own Alexander Calder brooch
from 1960, with Calders Jeune Fille
et Sa Suite, 1970. Calvin Klein
Collection jacket, turtleneck, and pants.
Opposite: Amy Phelan lies on Walead
Beshtys Mirrored Floor, 2011. Oscar
de la Renta gown and sandals. For
stores, prices, and more, go to Wmag
.com/where-to-buy-march-2016.
Styled by Patrick Mackie. Hair by
Sheridan Ward for Oribe at the Wall
Group; makeup by Nathan Hejl.

Jan Greenberg

Amy Phelan

In Aspens genteel West End, a neighborhood dotted with Victorian houses,

Jan Greenbergs Bauhaus box is the ideal setting for works by the modernist
giants whom her husband, Ronald Greenberg, started showing in his eponymous St. Louis gallery in 1972. It is no less hospitable a place for works by
the contemporary artists whom the Greenbergs daughter, Jeanne Greenberg Rohatyn, shows at her New York gallery, Salon 94. (Jeannes our eyes
and ears in New York, Greenberg says.) For her part, Jan has always been
attracted to minimalist arta Donald Judd stack in her St. Louis kitchen is
among her treasuresand to gestural painting such as the Sam Francis hanging above the fireplace. There is also rare Diego Giacometti furniture from
Ronalds visits to the artists Paris studio; he would bring Giacometti a bottle of bourbon and leave with a lamp. Jan is a prolific coauthor of books for
children about contemporary artists (Chuck Close, Cindy Sherman), and a
tireless advocate of arts education. Shes not alone. Aspen got very glamorous, but its full of do-gooders, she says.

Im not sure how I got here, but I sure am thankful for it, Amy Phelan says. A
former Dallas Cowboys cheerleader, she is also a daring and deeply thoughtful
champion of contemporary art and, to quote one of her Aspen neighbors, beyond philanthropic. WineCrush, which she and her husband, John, a financier,
host as part of the annual weeklong fundraising extravaganza ArtCrush, helped
raise $2.5 million for the Aspen Art Museum last year. When we began collecting, we bought safe things, Phelan says. A Chagall, a Picasso. Then we started
going to Chelsea, to art fairs. We got a Thomas Ruff photograph, and from then
on, everything else felt like my grandparents. The Phelans buy what they like,
with humor and sex the dominant themes. Each summer, they reinstall the art
in their Aspen home. There are major Ellsworth Kellys, Warhols Dolly Parton
(the queen mother, Amy calls her), and numerous works by the Phelans friend
Jim Hodges. In a downstairs bedroom, a video still from John Waterss Shut Up
and Blow Me! hangs over the fireplace. Phelan doesnt worry about frightening
her guests: If they minded, they wouldnt be allowed to stay here.

DIGITAL TECHNICIAN: CASEY CUNNEEN; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT: CIRCE BAUMGARTNER

EVENING ATTIRE FOR GIRLS WHO LIKE

GIRLS WHO LIKE BOYS WHO LIKE GIRLS CLOTHES.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY ALASDAIR M C LELLAN
STYLED BY EDWARD ENNINFUL
This page, from left: Fendi top;
Deborah Marquit bra. Dior Homme
suit; Theory shirt. Chanel dress;
Kenneth Jay Lane earrings from
Carole Tanenbaum Vintage Collection.
Burberry tuxedo; Herms shirt.
Francesco Scognamiglio dress;
Erickson Beamon earrings. Versace
gown; Kenneth Jay Lane earrings
from House of Lavande, Palm Beach.
Opposite, from left: Marc Jacobs gown;
Lynn Ban Archive earrings. Lanvin
dress; Lynn Ban Archive earrings.

This page, from left: Oscar

de la Renta dress and
sleeves; Kenneth Jay Lane
earrings. Rodarte dress;
Erickson Beamon earrings;
Giuseppe Zanotti Design
sandals. Opposite:
Givenchy Haute Couture
by Riccardo Tisci dress,
bracelets, and boots.

This page: Philipp Plein

gown; the Frye Company
boots. Beauty note: Flash
your cheeky side with
YSL Beaut Face Palette
Collector Gypsy Opale.
Opposite, from left: Prada
dress, skirt, earrings,
and neck piece. Prada
dress, shirt, skirt, earrings,
and neck piece.

This page, from left: Burberry

suit; Saint Laurent by Hedi
Slimane shirt. Dior Homme
suit; Theory shirt. Burberry
tuxedo; Herms shirt;
Dr. Martens shoes. Burberry
top and kilt; Elodie K. choker;
(from left) Fallon bracelet,
Chrome Hearts bracelets,
Fallon bracelet, Stephen
Webster bracelet, David
Yurman bracelets, Chrome
Hearts ring; Giambattista
Valli sandals. Beauty note:
For a pretty pout, try Dior
Addict Lip Glow Pomade.
Opposite, from left: Cline
dress; AS29 earrings.
Tom Ford dress; (from top)
Fallon choker, Mikimoto
necklace, Janis by Janis
Savitt necklace, Mikimoto
necklaces; Wolford tights.

This page, from left:

Blumarine dress and hot
pants; Tia Mazza veil neck
piece. Dior dress, and top
and shorts ensemble;
Tia Mazza veil neck piece.
Opposite, from left: Dior
Homme trousers; Maison
Margiela shoes. Paco
Rabanne dress; (from top)
Annelise Michelson earring,
Phyne by Paige Novick
earring; the Frye Company
boots. Louis Vuitton dress;
Armadoro Jewelry earrings;
(left hand) Lynn Ban rings;
Thomas Sabo bracelet; (right
hand, from top) Thomas
Sabo ring, Chrome Hearts
ring. Saint Laurent by Hedi
Slimane jacket, dress, and
boots; Lynn Ban earrings;
Chrome Hearts necklaces and
ring. Beauty note: Glow after
dark with Cl de Peau Beaut
Luminizing Face Enhancer.

This page: Balenciaga

dress; Noor Fares earrings.
Opposite: Balmain top;
Carolina Herrera skirt; Janis
by Janis Savitt earrings.
Beauty note: Maintain that
youthful charm with Rodial
Snake Booster Oil.

This page: Proenza

Schouler dress, top, and
shoes. Opposite, from
left: Fendi top and shorts;
Deborah Marquit bra;
(from top) Stephen Webster
bracelet, Chrome Hearts
bracelets, Fallon bracelet,
Chrome Hearts bracelet,
Fallon bracelet, Chrome
Hearts bracelet, David
Yurman bracelets, Chrome
Hearts ring. Rochas dress,
bra, and briefs; Elodie K.
choker; Lynn Ban rings.
Beauty note: Go short and
sweet with Viktor & Rolf
Bonbon Hair Mist.

Hair by Matt Mulhall for Oribe at

Streeters London; makeup by
Val Garland at Streeters London;
manicures by Ama Quashie for
Chanel at CLM Hair & Make-up.
Set design by Andrew Tomlinson
at Streeters London. Models: Edie
Campbell and Isabella Emmack
at DNA Model Management;
Tamy Glauser at Marilyn Agency;
Ava McAvoy at Elite; Betty
Adewole at IMG Models; Joe
Kinsella at Models 1; Phoenix-Blu
at Select Model Management;
Jack Wilson at Milk Management;
Paul Ditchburn at D1 Models;
Lloyd McBratney at Bookings
Model Agency.

PRODUCED BY LAURA HOLMES PRODUCTION; MENS CASTING: MADELEINE STLIE; PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANTS: LEX KEMBERY, MATT HEALEY, SIMON MACKINLAY, TOM AYERST; FASHION ASSISTANTS: RYANN FOULKE, SAM WALKER, DENA GIANNINI,
RAE HARRISON-DOYLE, SHARON SYLVESTER, RAEANN HAYDEN; HAIR ASSISTANTS: ADAM GARLAND, ELVIRE ROUX; MAKEUP ASSISTANT: JOEY CHOY; MANICURE ASSISTANT: ZAIDA IBRAHIM-GANI; SET DESIGN ASSISTANT: JAMES ROBOTHAM

This page: Alexander McQueen

dress; earrings from House of
Lavande, Palm Beach. Opposite,
top row, left, from left: Marni
dress; earrings from House of
Lavande, Palm Beach. Dior
Homme suit and shirt. Ermanno
Scervino dress; CZ by Kenneth
Jay Lane earrings. No. 21 dress
and shirt; Proenza Schouler
earrings. Opposite, top row,
right, from left: Missoni dress;
Jennifer Fisher cuff. Salvatore
Ferragamo dress; Fallon earrings.
Burberry suit; Saint Laurent by
Hedi Slimane shirt. Opposite,
bottom row, center, second from
left: Burberry tuxedo; Herms
shirt. For stores, prices, and
more, go to Wmag.com/
where-to-buy-march-2016.

WOW
5.
6.
2.

3.

4.

1. The red-lit
atmosphere in
the penthouse of
the Chateau
Marmont. 2. Brie
Larson and
Kristen Wiig.
3. Jennifer Jason
Leigh. 4. Cate
Blanchett.
5. Jacob Tremblay.
6. Gael Garca
Bernal. 7. Poppy
Jamie and Suki
Waterhouse.
8. Peter Lindbergh
and Rooney Mara.

7.

8.
1.

9.

9. Tallulah Willis and Lola Kirke. 10. Laura Mulleavy

and Kirsten Dunst. 11. Helen Mirren. 12. Quentin
Tarantino. 13. Ws Stefano Tonchi and Saoirse
Ronan. 14. Alicia Vikander.

Golden Globes Bash

In what has become an

annual tradition, W magazines Stefano Tonchi and Lynn
Hirschberg and hotelier Andr Balazs kicked off the Golden Globes
weekend with a party celebrating Ws February Movie Issue at
the Chateau Marmont, hosted by Audi and Dom Prignon. So
how did it all go down? Hirschberg dishes the details on Ws new
podcast, The Morning After, at Wmag.com/podcast.
11.

13.

12.

14.

L.A. Confidential

3.

2.

1. Rowan
Blanchard and
Kiernan Shipka.
2. Billie Lourd.
3. Jaime King.
4. Loan Chabanol.
5. Emilia Clarke.
6. Caroline
Vreeland, Kilo Kish,
and Kacy Hill.

VANESSA LAWRENCE CHARTS THE

GOLDEN GLOBES PRE-PARTY
SCENEFROM CELEBRITY-PACKED
COCKTAILS TO AN ALFRESCO LUNCHEON.
1.

4.

5.

It Girl Lunch

The day before the

Golden Globes ceremony, W magazines
Lynn Hirschberg, Coach, and Mot & Chandon
toasted the young talent in town with an It
Girl luncheon. Actresses, musicians, models,
and plenty of hyphenates mingled in the
garden of A.O.C. restaurant.
354

wmag.com

6.

LARSON AND WIIG, MULLEAVY AND DUNST: LANDON NORDEMAN; GOLDEN GLOBES BASH: COURTESY OF GETTY IMAGES; IT GIRL LUNCH: STEFANIE KEENAN/GETTY IMAGES FOR W MAGAZINE

10.

Princess Merida from Brave +

A Naum Gabo sculpture +
an ostrich =
Comme des Garonss
walking work of art

Seven years of bad luck +

Captain Kirk +
newsprint =
Loewes reflective rebel

Daring Divas
THE STANDOUTS AT THE EUROPEAN
SPRING COLLECTIONS? LADIES WITH AN
ATTITUDE, SAYS ARMAND LIMNANDER.

A floral tapestry +
Rita Ora +
King Louis XIV =
Alexander McQueens
craftsy courtesan

A rainbow +
Stevie Nickss
painting Rhiannon +
Sean Penn in
Fast Times at
Ridgemont High =
Chlos breezy
beachcomber

356

wmag.com

Marlene Dietrich in
Blonde Venus +
autumn ferns +
Big Bird =
Moschinos
sensational showgirl

BRAVE: COURTESY OF DISNEY; OSTRICH, COMME DES GARCONS, BROKEN MIRROR, NEWSPRINT, LOEWE, TAPESTRY, ORA, KING LOUIS XIV, ALEXANDER MCQUEEN, RAINBOW, CHLOE, FERNS, BIG BIRD, AND MOSCHINO: GETTY IMAGES; GABOS LINEAR CONSTRUCTION NO. 4, 1959:
COURTESY OF THE ARTIST/TATE, LONDON; CAPTAIN KIRK: COURTESY OF PARAMOUNT TELEVISION; BLONDE VENUS: COURTESY OF EVERETT COLLECTION; FAST TIMES AT RIDGEMONT HIGH: COURTESY OF UNIVERSAL PICTURES; NICKSS RHIANNON, 1982: COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

INSPIRATION EQUATION