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2016 BALI STARTER GUIDE

HOW TO MAKE YOUR BASE IN PARADISE
TOTALLY UPDATED FOR 2016
PRACTICAL DETAILS ON: VISAS, WHERE TO STAY,
ACCOMMODATIONS, GETTING AROUND, AND MORE
BONUS SECTION: A WALK THROUGH BINTANG SUPERMARKET!

Who This Guide Is For 4

Overview 6
Visas 10
Where To Live 14
Bali For WageFreedom.com Readers (Secret Bonus
Section) 21
Accommodations 30
Transportation 51
Miscellaneous Tips 60
Bali-related links 69
A Walk Through Bintang Supermarket! 72

Who This Guide Is For

First of all, Ive changed the title and the theme from the 1st
edition of this guide, which was called Bali On The Cheap.
I thought more of an all-purpose guide made sense if I was
going to update it, and it was easy to wrap specifics as to
staying in Bali on a budget into a wider, general context for
readers who might not need to be quite as frugal. Whatever
your budget I hope you find useful tips here.
You'd love to visit Bali for more than a short-term
holiday, but financially the only way you can manage it is to
live fairly frugally while you're here. You suspect there's a way
to still have a good experience, but you need some practical,
up-to-date cost-hacking info, all in one place.
Your circumstances don't require you to necessarily head
home from a trip to Bali after a couple of weeks. Maybe your
boss will allow you to do your job back home remotely or
maybe you've decided it's finally time for a longer break or a
sabbatical. Conventional guidebooks geared toward "tourist
mode" arent meant for that kind of trip.
A word on prices: all prices are in Indonesia rupiah and
current as of June 2016. Converting prices to Aussie dollars/
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Euro/US dollars, meant this guide would be out of date in a

month. I decided it might be confusing or downright
misleading to go that route. Instead, if youre reading this
guide for more than a cursory overviewi.e. actually
planning a budgetlet me suggest going to the link below
and converting 100,000 rupiah and one million rupiah one
time, into the currency of your choice. Write it down and
have it next to you until a fast conversion in your head is easy
for you. http://www.xe.com/currencyconverter/#
No references to businesses or services here are paid. All
opinions reflect my own perception of value.

Finally, please feel free to email this guide to

anyone you feel might find it handy
especially if they think an extended stay on a
tropical island is something only other people
do.

Tom
WageFreedom.com

Overview
It's a huge over-simplification but I'll say it anyway: Bali is at
least three intertwined economies overlaid on top of each
other, based on three distinct groups of people. This is most
true in the southern end of the island near Ngurah Rai
International Airport, where most of the islands tourism is
located.
First are the Indonesians, comprised of more sub-groups
than you might realize. Theyre a mix of local Balinese who
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are actually from the tourist areas, Balinese who have

"immigrated" from elsewhere in Bali, and Indonesians who
have come from every corner of the country: Java, Sumatra,
Nusa Tenggara or Sulawesi. If you're here for a while you
wont be surprised when you discover that the waitress at
your favorite restaurant is from Lombok, or that the hilarious
guy who rents surfboards is Batak from Sumatra.
Second are the short-term visitors who come for a week or
two as a break from their normal lives. Often tourists have
more money than time and are prepared to spend in an effort
to amplify their enjoyment. This creates an army of people
doing "tourism support" to accommodate them.
It also leads to a lot of infrastructure that wouldn't exist
otherwise, of which longer-term visitors and residents (both
Indonesians and foreigners) can naturally also take
advantage: excellent and varied restaurants, nightlife galore,
good-and-improving Internet access, and a hundred other
conveniences.
Third are the longer-term Western visitors who live in Bali
year-round or several months each year. Often theyll have
physical businesses in Bali or be retired. Naturally this group
has different requirements and is oftennot alwaysmore
money-conscious than tourists are.
Also included in this group would be so-called digital
nomads, who travel with a laptop while attending to online
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businesses having nothing to do Bali or whatever country

they happen to be passing through, or who do freelancing
online for clients, outside of Indonesia. Its a way to spend
extended periods in places you like without having to get a
job, and naturally enough Bali is a place favored by this
group.
At any rate, this multi-layered economy underpins a local
scene as vibrant and cosmopolitan in its way as many
medium-sized cities around the world.
For our purposes the thing to remember is that you want to,
as much as you can and as soon as possible, become part of
economies #1 and #3, i.e. that of the locals and the longerterm foreigners.
You wont be a local. But you can live quite a bit like one if
you want to.
Not only will you step into a more authentic lifestyle than the
one toward which binge tourists tend, the price you pay for
everything will be greatly reduced, and often negotiable.
All this isnt to say that staying in Bali for months or more
means you'll never go to the bars and clubs in Kuta to get
your groove on with the tourists, or that splurging on a US
$10 entre at a nice restaurant up on "eat street" (Jalan
Oberoi in Petitenget) is off-limits: on the contrary!

One of the things I enjoy most about Bali is that on any

given day I can choose from a huge range of options for
eating or socializing, at restaurants that wouldn't look out of
place in Sydney or LA.or at a warung where three people
can eat authentic, tasty Indonesian food for US$5.
Or both.
Having many, many cheaper, attractive options for virtually
everythingaccommodation, transportation and a hundred
little thingsis a recurring theme in Bali. Keep this in mind,
whether youre bargaining on Jalan Doublesix for a sarong or
negotiating a 25-year lease on your dream beach house.
It all adds up to spending both money and time more
reasonably than we do when were tourists. This mindset will
help you stay longer and in many ways live better. The
purpose of this book is to help you do this.

Visas
Please keep in mind: this overview of the Indonesian visa
situation in 2016 might be outdated by the time you read it,
especially for the visa-on-arrival (VOA), the guidelines for
which change pretty often. Please check online or with an
agent for the most recent visa rules. I do have a post on
WageFreedom.com that covers the social visa and extensions
to it; I tend to keep it updated but again please double-check:
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10

http://wagefreedom.com/a-visa-for-long-stays-in-baliindonesia-what-you-need-to-know/
VOA (Visa On Arrival)
In 2016, citizens of most countries (please check for the
current list online) can simply get the visa-on-arrival (VOA),
when they arrive at Ngurah Rai airport (DPS) in Bali. It is
now free, for citizens of many countries. There are two
versions of it. The free version allows you to stay for 30 days,
then you have to leave Indonesia.
Would you like to stay as long as 60 days total without leaving
Bali? As of 2016 youre in luck. Citizens of many countries
can choose to pay 500,000 rupiah (or US$35 in cash) at the
small booth before the immigration counter, right as you
enter the terminal off the airplane. You might have to look
for it, and there might be no line. There is an ATM
dispensing rupiah near this counter if you dont have US
dollars.
This version of the VOA is extendable for 30 more days after
the first 30 days. The extension isnt automatic. Roughly 20
days into your stay you must go to the new Immigration
office on the road to Nusa Dua (not the toll road), in person.
The extension is 250,000 rupiah, takes an hour or two, and
theyll take a photo and fingerprint you.
You might want to use an agent to help you. It will cost
roughly 750,000 rupiah in 2016. That includes the extension
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11

fee. If youd like you can contact my old friend Deni at

deni.warli@gmail.com and he will make an appointment for
you, remind you when its time for the extension, meet you at
the office and you can avoid going from counter to counter to
figure out the process. (BTW I get no compensation from
Deni; I mention him because hes reliable and I trust him.)
SOCIAL VISA (SOCIAL BUDAYA)
If you think you'd like to stay longer than 60 days in Bali (or
Indonesia generally for that matter) this is probably the visa
you want. Please refer to the article I mention above, since I
edit it every time I hear of changes to Social Visa policy
(which I wont be able to do with this guide!) Heres the URL
again:
http://wagefreedom.com/a-visa-for-long-stays-in-baliindonesia-what-you-need-to-know/
One thing I dont really cover in that article is extensions to
your social visa. 50 days or so after arrival youll go to the
same Immigration office I refer to above, for your extension.
However, unlike the VOA the social visa requires three visits
to the office, PER EXTENSION. For this reason I always
use an agent for my social visa extensions (again, my friend
Deni).
A stipulation with the social visa is that you have to apply
for it outside of Indonesia. It is possible to engage an agent

12

before you ever leave home so that the very first time you
come to Indonesia you can have a social visa in hand.
Even if you arent sure if youll be staying for more than 60
days a social visa might be smart to to get, as the cost is about
the same as extending the VOA since you have 60 days right
off the airplane. Then, if you want to stay longer, you can
begin your extensions.
In the comments section of my social visa article Ive
answered a lot of questions over the years about the social
visa and doing a one-day turnaround in Singapore (with an
agent there) after your six months is up. If your question isn't
covered in the comments Deni or another agent can help
you, and also with other types of work/residence/business
visas for that matter.
If you start a physical business in Bali youll need a work and
residence permit (KITAS). There are many sub-categories
and requirement subtleties of this document and because the
rules change regularly, after thinking about it Ive decided to
try to avoid misleading anyone by suggesting that you retain
an agent to answer your questions and facilitate the process
for you.

13

Where To Live
I should emphasize that you will really save money if youre
willing to be more than 10 or 15 minutes from the beach by
motorbike, especially in the south end of the island. This
doesn't mean you can't find good deals near the beach, but if
money is really tight keep this in mind.
Kuta/Tuban -- as you head north from the Ngurah Rai
International Airport (DPS) this will be the first area through
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14

which you pass. It was the first part of Bali to really become
popular with foreigners in the early 70s because of its
proximity to the airport, the nice beach and decent beach
break for surfing.
Kuta is a paradise for tourists (and others) for a casual night
out, with endless bars, informal restaurants, massage, tattoo
shops, and wall-to-wall shopping. The homogeneity of the
businesses in this area reflects that of the clientele; maybe the
needs of people on holiday for a week or two are less varied
than people staying longer.
At any rate Kuta defines the tourist layer of the Bali
economy that I mentioned at the beginning of this guide.
Few if any longer-term visitors or expats actually live here for
that reason.
If you head straight north on Jalan Legian (Legian Street )
the main north-south thoroughfare in this part of the island,
youll come to:
Legian/Seminyak -- over the years the crowds slowly
rolled north along the beach to the Legian/Seminyak area.
Youll still hear people tell you about when Jalan Legian was
a dirt road in the 70s. Though development has increased a
lot in the last 10 years or so, you'll still feel the lower
population density and slightly slower pace compared to
Kuta.

15

A pretty crowded beach scene, lots of good restaurants,

The Bintang supermarket, and large houses behind high
walls mark this area as the place where people stop just
visiting Bali and start to set up for the longer term. From here
north for many miles, Bali houses and villas will be available
down the side streets and small alleys, beckoning you to find
them.
Petitenget/Kerobokancontinue north from Legian/
Seminyak and beginning more or less at Jalan Oberoi (aka
Eat Street), you'll find yourself in Petitenget, which was
mostly long stretches of rice paddies less than 10 years ago
but is now mostly villas, good apartments and some of the
best restaurants in Bali.
For longer-term stays the center of gravity has definitely
shifted north over the last several years from Seminyak to
Petitinget, and even points north, in my opinion.
Development near the beach here tends toward the high-end
with hotels like Oberoi and The W, and a lot of high-end
villas. Come inland a little and set yourself up in a less
expensive house, apartment or even a kost (please see the
Accommodations section) and benefit from the
infrastructure thats risen from the rice paddies.
The restaurants and cafes youll find here offer casual quality,
generally very good value for money and a slightly upmarket
vibe, generally without being pretentious. Not to overstate it:
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16

obviously there are still tourists, but not exclusively so, as in

Kuta.
It feels like proprietors here have responded to a more varied
market than youll find further south by creating
establishments infused with imagination rather than purely
functional, volume-driven tourist support.
(I should state here before I make too many enemies that
there absolutely are exceptional places to the south in
Seminyak/Legian and further down; Seaside restaurant,
Zula, Grain and others are outstanding)
In 2016 I would look for a place to stay in Petitenget.
Even if you dont end up staying here itll be a good
reference point. Youll find plenty of places at various price
points from Jalan Drupadi north to Jalan Batu Belig. Youll
tend to pay more than you would in Ubud or more remote
places and yes, the traffic really does get bad nowadays.
However, the central location as well as a nicer, less busy
beach than Kuta/Seminyak/Legian means that some people
reading this guide will find it to be ideal.
Kerobokan north to Canggu -- north of Kerobokan
along the coast you'll eventually come to the gently rolling
low hills of Canggu (Chong-gu), where rice paddies are
quickly being repurposed for sprawling villas. This whole
area would be good to look for a place to live if youd like a

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rice paddy view and to be relatively close to the ocean,

without needing to have many neighbors in close proximity.
Canggu used to be a little too far away from everything to
attract very many foreigners looking to stay longer-term,
unless you were interested in seclusion or the very good
waves in the area. Things are different in 2016, and its
become a favored place for lots of newcomers, from families
looking for larges villas to digital nomads. No longer is a trip
down to Seminyak or towards Denpasar to stock up on
groceries and supplies necessary, or for a night out either for
that matter, as Canggu and really the entire area has most of
what youd want now.
If youre planning your search for a place to stay longer-term
n Bali, a slow day trip from Legian to Canggu would be time
well invested. In a full day you could probably also look
around Ubud too.
Ubud if being near a beach isn't a priority for you,
strongly consider Ubud as a base. It's only about an hour and
twenty minutes from the airport, nestled in the green foothills
south of the volcanic center of Bali. If you come hoping to
spend an extended period of time in Bali and youre
interested in a slower pace (and likely lower prices) than the
busy south, Ubud might be perfect for you.
While there is a lot of tourist activity in the center of Ubud
along with good restaurants, thriving yoga and artist
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18

communities and even a little nightlifeits easy to find

peace and quiet amid the incredible natural beauty of Bali
here. Just a kilometer/mile or two outside of town and
authentic Bali and low property prices can still be had in
2016.
If your dream of Bali is spending time gazing at lush green
rice paddies and distant mountains, it doesnt get any greener
than Ubud.
Personally, if the beach wasnt such a priority for me Id love
to live in Ubud. And I didnt even read Eat, Pray, Love.
Sanur -- on the east side of the lower end of the island you'll
find another tourist area and major expat enclave. Some
foreigners prefer Sanur for the slower pace, though the
beaches are maybe nicer on the west-facing areas across the
island. If you find Seminyak a bit busy for your tastes but
youre still interested in good restaurants and being near a
beachwithout the wide open spaces of Cangguhead
across via the Bypass Road to Sanur and take a look around.
From Sanur heading north and east along the coast things
get quieter and lots of tourist infrastructure falls away. Youll
still pass hotels and guesthouses but the feeling is different as
you head away from the touristed areas. Turn off the twolane coast road on the way to the port of Padangbai (or
beyond it) and youd quickly find seclusion not far from the

19

ocean, while still not being too far from Balis capital
Denpasar, and Sanur.
Jimbaran/Bukit Peninsulahelped along by rapidly
growing popularity of the Bukit Peninsula at the far south
end of Bali, Jimbaran has become a lot more than an
excellent place to have a fish dinner right on the sand, though
it is that too. There's a nice stretch of beach in Jimbaran
beginning just south of the airport runway and an
established expat enclave in the area.
Whereas years ago it might have been a little inconvenient to
be in Jimbaran or certainly the Bukit (its a good 30+ minutes
to the areas north of the airport) its definitely self-sustaining
in 2016.
The Bukit Peninsula has one thing you wont find elsewhere
in Bali: houses perched over spectacular cliffs overlooking the
ocean. You will really pay for world-class views like this, but
people do. And again, its not as remote as it used to be. Just
something to keep in mind.
Youll find the world-class surf break Uluwatu at the
southwest tip of the Bukit Peninsula. This wave probably has
more to do with Bali developing as a tourist destination than
people give it credit for. Its drawn Aussies especially since
1972, many of whom just kept coming to Bali as they got
older and had families.

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Lovina, other areas in the North.

If youve looked at most of the places Ive listed so far and
are still intrigued by other options, you absolutely should take
a trip up to the north coast of Bali, toward Singaraja and
Lovina. These are relatively quiet towns that might suit you,
but do pay attention to the true natural beauty along the way
too.
A friend of mine found his dream north-facing view in a
remote area not too far off this road and built a houseand
a situation that suited him perfectlywhen he retired. Not
for everyone, but I suppose Ive driven the point home by
now: you really have so many different settings from which to
pick in Bali.

Bali For WageFreedom.com

Readers (Secret Bonus Section)
Now that Ive laid out brief sketches of the main areas
favored by foreigners, Ill talk about choosing an area to live
in Bali, as an answer to a lot of inquiries I get from
WageFreedom.com readers.
If youre interested in Bali per se, do feel free to skip this
section. If youre interested in changing your life and
wondering if lower costs in Bali can give you a means to do
this even on a very tight budget, maybe youll be interested.
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21

Many people from whom I hear are attracted to the idea of

spending six-to-12 months or more in Bali (or other parts of
the world) as part of a major life change, maybe also
involving a career reset or retirement, or leaving a bad
relationship.
Their perception of a low cost of living for a high quality of
life in Bali encourages people to think of it as a platform for
further explorationmaybe exploration of the boundaries
and alternate trajectories of ones own life, as much as
exploration of Bali.
Its clear that for many Bali is a symbol of a change theyve
been tempted to make.
If this sounds impractical, too self-centered, or placing toohigh expectations on this island, Ill say this: almost everyone
you meet who has been here for years has benefitted from
Bali as a platform for change, whether that was their
original intent or not.
You wont find the doubters here. The naysayers and the
people for whom a narrow practicality drives everything,
always.
Well, maybe you will find them here. Ill risk alienating some
readers when I say: the doubters head back to the real world
after a week or two holiday.

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Others believe theres more to be seized from life than what

theyve found so far. When the time is right they might add
some information, planning and resolve and do interesting
things, pursue dreams.
Of course this mindset applies to a lot more than a move to
Bali. Thats for another guide.
Im a believer tooIve benefitted too much from being
impractical not to be and I expect more out of life than
circumstances into which I happen to have been born.
I want to believe in transformation and I feel good when I see
other people seizing it for themselves. Its why I travel, to
brush up against this will-to-growth' in distilled human form:
other travelers.
Its also why I registered WageFreedom.com in 2008, why I
offer coaching, and why Im giving this guide away.
Many people are happy to head back to their real-ish worlds
after a holiday, and theyre probably not still reading this
small aside to a Bali guide. Thats not a problem, and it
would describe many people we know, and love.
But others will sit on the airplane homeor other places
wondering how in the world they could ever be that tanned
guy they glimpsed in Bali on a motorbike, his dog perched on
the petrol tank as they head to the beach for sunset. Or that
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23

radiant woman at a restaurant with whom you chatted about

a yoga class, who clearly wasnt on a holiday. You wanted to
ask her how she did it but you didnt want to pry.
For a moment you believed.
There are as many ways to break free and find yourself living
your dreamstropical island or notas there are people.
But for now, in the context of a guide to long-term living in
Bali, lets attack living expenses here as a constraint.
Becauseassuming you want itwhen you see its possible
financially, it might be a spark that inspires a change for you.
How it could start
If you'd like to discover what Bali is like without tourists,
what Bali used to be like, you could find basic
accommodations in a remote spot near a secluded beach, or
overlooking an idyllic rice paddy in the hills, waking up each
morning to a spectacular volcano view. You could do this for
a fraction of what you'd pay to live in places like Seminyak,
Kuta or Sanur.
Talk to people. Many servers at restaurants in the tourist
areas are from rural parts of Bali. Since in Indonesia youll
always be asked where youre from, it will be easy to ask the
same of them. Dont be at all surprised if expressing sincere
interest in a persons village results in a generous invite to visit
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24

it with them on their day off work, possibly when they are
obliged to attend a Balinese gathering or ceremony. Might
there be someone there willing to rent a house, or a room or
two? Maybe.
You could have the same conversation about village life in a
nice spot you select for lunch on a day trip you take yourself
around Bali. In this case available accommodations or a
place that could be made available for you might already be
nearby. Make it a point to stop in nice areas onlyin Bali it
wont be hard!
You get the idea. If it sounds unlikely remember that these
sort of easy meetings are the norm in Southeast Asia, where
youll be touched by the openness of locals. Craigslist and the
Sunday classified section havent made it to every corner of
the world. Interactions like this are how things happen here.
If you find a place you like, you could strike a deal with a
Balinese family. Amenities like air-conditioning might not be
included and cooking facilities would be basic. Youd want to
budget for some improvements probably. Internet access
would be unlikely, though possible (depending on the
location) via a data pIan with Telkomsel or another local
carrier. This would reduce your isolation and enable you to
attend to projects or online enterprises in a true best of both
worlds scenario.

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Im exploring this extremely inexpensive option at length

because of the volume of emails I get from people asking
about living more or less off the grid in Bali, either because
its the only way they could afford to spend an extended time
here, or simply as a romantic notion.
People do it, and I suppose in this setting you could live for
three or four million rupiah per month if money was really
tight. I bring this scenario up when people roll out the word
impossible (money-wise) at the idea of leaving a situation
with which they are very dissatisfied back home, for one
reason or another.
For some people the pace of life in rural Bali will be too slow,
the location too remote. For others it will be perfect, at least
for a time, especially maybe in light of what theyre leaving
behind.
Done right, this route isnt dangerous. It doesnt have to be
uncomfortable, and it could be a very healthy baseline reset
on a few different levels if one was starting over, even with
very little money.
You could potentially live completely outside the tourist
economy I talked about at the beginning of this guide.
OK. Too slow for you? Heres good news.

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You have an expanding range of juicy options in Bali in

terms of location, price and amenities that you simply wont
find in the developed world. And if money is tight, there is
power in this.
Check this out. In most places in the developed world itll
take several hundred bucks/month minimum to rent a place,
maybe in a neighborhood youd rather not live. This is part
of the reason why so many people feel stuck. Its simple
math. They are stuck, unfortunately. Theres next months
rent to make and not much time to come up with a better
plan. I have been in this spot, I know how it feels and I have
sympathy for you if it describes your life.
Still, maybe the Bali off the grid, bare essentials lifestyle I
described above didnt sound too attractive to you.
If you add just a couple or a few million rupiah a month to
the price I mentioned above lets say US$300/month total
and your possibilities are just about endless in 2016. And I
mean nice places.
For example, you can be outside of Ubud overlooking a rice
paddy (still in view of those volcanos!), with modern
infrastructure available nearby, a network of hundreds of
expats and 100 small things to make life more comfortable.
Youre shopping at the local market, living much like a local,
living wellin some ways betteron far less than youd need
in the West.
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27

Is Ubud too far from the beach? For a similar price you could
be ten minutes by motorcycle to nice beaches in Canggu,
still away from it all if you prefer to be.
If that price sounds interesting but youd prefer less seclusion,
you could be in bustling Kerobokan in a smallor is it
cozy?kost (please see the Accommodation section) with
essentially the modern world outside your door, at far lower
prices.
While researching this guide for 2016 I got so excited by
small, new rentals offered all over Bali.
And this is critical: whereas traditionally renting a house in
Bali meant coming up with cash for the entire term of the
lease period, Im seeing small apartments available
everywhere by the month.
I think Ive made my point, regarding quality places available
at very low cost wherever you want to live in Bali. And just to
conclude this where to live section, obviously if you can
afford more expensive options, everywhere Ive mentioned
has them!
Find your perfect Bali location, remote or not, and build or
lease a house with a swimming pool and every first-world
amenity you can think of.

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Whatever your ideal mix of price, amenities, population

density and natural surroundings is, you can probably find it
in Bali.
Im not saying theres something for everybody as a
platitude. Im saying you can very probably find an ideal
situation for you.

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Accommodations
Now lets look outside the Bali tourist economy at types of
housing for longer-term accommodations, and some
examples.
Research
Searching for accommodation can begin before you leave
home, as Internet forums/chat rooms (see list at the end of
this guide) are good for getting up-to-date information,
networking and hot tips.

30

The Bali Advertiser is the local expat newspaper, with a large

real estate section in the online version, and a good place to
start your research. Cafe Moka in Seminyak still has a good
bulletin board usually with quite a few houses and
apartments for rent.
I would focus on property listings online nowadays though,
and youll learn a lot from the rental sites Ive selected for
you. See the links at the end of this guide.
My aim with this guide isnt to give you 200 listings thatll
soon be outdated, its simply to show you a little of what you
can expect at given price points in 2016, and share how Id
approach a search nowadays.
Dont even think about committing to any longer-term living
arrangements until you you get feel for different areas and
actually see property. Also, real estate prices online will be
inflated, compared to what youll find if youre willing to do
the legwork and asking around yourself.
An agent will cut down the time you need to spend looking
for places to rent, and would be good as a point of reference.
You should also get the word out with people you meet after
you arrive and take time to look for For Rent signs in areas
you like.
Answering a ad or calling a number on a sign saying De
Jualfor rent in Bahasa Indonesiamight mean youll get
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a price break compared to people targeting foreigners in

English. You should get an Indonesian to make initial
enquiries and get an asking price in this case, otherwise as
soon as its clear youre not Indonesian the price will climb.
Actually the asking price might still climb after they find out
youre a foreigner. (Or buleboo-laya non-pejorative
term for non-Indonesians.)
Starting your search
Id get a cheap hotel room in Seminyak or Legian for a few
nights or more, as a base from which you can explore. Maybe
better, check Airbnb.com and ask for a weekly discount if
one isnt offered.
Also I should say, regarding Airbnb: in 2016 you can
potentially accelerate the whole process of finding a longterm rental using Airbnb. If you find a place that works for
you, you can approach the owner for a long-term deal. If the
property is rented out for much of the month he/she might
have no interest; my guess is that owners of more remote
properties would be more receptive to stays of longer than a
month or two. It never hurts to ask!
If youre going the route involving doing the legwork, have a
list of places or at least areas that you can check out on your
motorcycle or by ojek (motorcycle taxi). Maybe better, get a
car with driver for the day to take you around (see
Transportation section). Im aiming to make this section
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32

sufficient introduction to areas in Bali for you to go forth with

confidence, by the way!
Houses/Villas
I use house and villa interchangeably; most villas would
have pools I suppose, but not all, and I dont know of criteria
for a clear distinction.
Keep in mind that especially for houses, owners prefer longterm leases, and 2 to 5 years out to 25-year terms are
common. Usually the entire term is payable in advance, but
you can work a deal with many owners.
Also, the situation might be changing. Im seeing more
houses for rent by the month. Its great news. Below is an
example just outside Ubud. This is probably about as
inexpensive as you could go for a house rental in Bali in
2016: 1-br 4 million/mo, but there is your rice-paddy view!
And heres the URL, though the house will no doubt be
rented when you read this http://goo.gl/7hAcMg

33

On this page is a
newish, small 1-br
open floorplan villa
w/plunge pool near
S e m i nya k b e a ch ,
asking 16 mill/mo,
by the month. Pool
maintenance,
housekeeping/
g a rd e n e r a re a l l
included. https://goo.gl/fQIrYN
Obviously you can
negotiate very good
per-month prices if
you go out for years
half off, maybe less
and maybe low
enough that even if
you dont stay the
whole period or all
year round it might still make sense. Subletting even for long
periods is quite common too
Foreigners arent allowed to own property in Indonesia. In
practice there are legitimate ways to in effect do so. Though I
have done this myself Ive decided to leave this for another
guide and gear my suggestions here for earlier-stage expats
for whom leasing or renting is probably a better option.
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34

Nothing I'd say here would be more important than you

doing your own due diligence relative to the process of
purchasing, and scouting out houses and locations.
The very first thing youll want to do if you aim to purchase
a house or raw land is to ask foreigners who have actually
bought property in Indonesia to recommend a notaris a
legally trained semi-public official who notarizes property
deedsone they trust.
Renting an apartment -- One of the reasons I knew I
needed to update this Bali guide is because of how many
western-style apartment complexes popping up all over. For
most people the quality, price and wide selection of
apartments or kosts (see below) in 2016 means that
they will simply be the way to go. Buy property later.

35

Like anywhere else, apartments might be unfurnished, but

often Bali apartment rentals are of the serviced apartment
variety, with all the creature comforts right down to cutlery in
the kitchen. The 10-panel image on the previous page is of a
nice 2-storey apartment in the eastern part of Kerobokan
about 15 minutes by motorbike from the beach, costing 60
million rupiah/year, by the year. Full kitchen, gorgeous rice
paddy view.

The five-panel image above is a furnished apartment in the

middle of Petitenget, 5 minutes walk from Jalan Oberoi (Eat
Street), 5 minutes to the beach on a motorbike. Open
floorpan downstairs, enclosed bedroom with A/C. 12
million/mo for a six-month lease.
!

36

Above is an Ubud 1-br apartment, 6 million/mo or 5.5

million/mo paid in advance. 2x weeklong cleaning included:
http://www.balibudgethousing.com/rentals/nice-villa-rentubud-2/
As you can see accommodations like these are in many ways
on par with apartments youd find back home, newish often
with cable TV, maybe a shared pool and maid service, and
possibly Internet connection included.
On the next page the apartment with the beautiful courtyard
is 5 million/mo with a shared kitchen, recently renovated.
http://www.balibudgethousing.com/rentals/made-arsahomestay-rent-ubud/
On the low end the line between kosts (see below) and
apartments will get blurry, lets say decent well-located
apartments start around 4 million/month and go up from
there.

37

Kosts
If your vision of staying long-term in Bali will require
budgeting to pull off, you will love this section!
Kosts are comprised of several small one- or two-room
apartments arranged around a central courtyard area.
Rooms in very cheap kosts might have a bathroom outside;
sometimes the toilets and kitchen areas are shared, and
outside. You can find kosts for 500,000 rupiah to a million
per month if you arent too picky as to location or amenities.
With kosts you might have to borrow or buy furniture and
cooking supplies. If youre really on a budget and dont mind
a few rough edges, going this cheap could be the difference
between being in Bali and not being able to afford it.

38

I have met plenty of westerners over the years staying in kosts

and if you are serious about saving money in Bali they must
be the cheapest option of all.
Readers who aren't on a particularly tight budget should be
excited because in 2016 kosts are often much nicer than
they used to be. They are still small, but sometimes more
like a newish hotel room with cooking facilities. As I
researched this guide for 2016 I was amazed at how so many
kosts have been upgraded.
I suppose it shows how many Indonesians are earning more
than they used to, as well as demand from longer-term
foreigners no doubt.
Good kosts can be had for 2 million rupiah and up. At the
time of writing this I found nice-looking kosts not far from
the beach in the center of Seminyak priced between 2 and 4

39

million/month. The two pictures above show a kost priced at

two million/month, about a four-minute walk from the
beach.
Look at http://www.rumahkostbali.com/. So many
reasonably-priced places in very good locations. (Its in
Bahasa Indonesia so just use Google Translate https://
translate.google.com/)
2 million is US$150 as Im writing this: $5/day. Starbucks
Venti Latte: about $5. And again, you could go under a
million if moneys tight.
For the price of that small daily diversion some of us allow
ourselves to shore up our resolve against a hundred tedious
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40

contingencies of daily life back home and a boss we might

not like, you could be there.
Im sorry, my inner expat evangelist couldnt help himself.
Too small for you to live long term? Probably. But remember:
In a tropical setting youll tend to spend quite a bit of time
outside anyway, so aside from a comfortable bed and
probably A/C you might need relatively little spaceor
furniture for that matter.
Also I can say from experience that living in extremely
modest places sometimesOK reals dumps!in my years in
Asia didnt have the same depressing feeling it would have
had back in the US or Europe.
The aforementioned warmth outside means I didnt
need a luxurious place in which to cower away from the
elements.
You probably wont be coming home each night from a
job that seems to have little purpose other than your basic
sustenance and a few weeks a year of holiday. Youre already
in that tropical place, and its all happening right outside.
Hopefully youll be spending your time on a project that
youre enthusiastic about, one that might bring in (better)
money in the future too. With this mindset you might be less
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41

inclined to get too wrapped up in your immediate temporary

surroundings.
Ive known people who started in Bali in kosts and a few
years later were living in nice villas. Its amazing what you
can do if you remove distraction and give yourself time to
really focus on business, offline or online. You might be one
foreign client away from that villa.
Renting a Room in a Villa -- Lots of expats live in large
villas built back when land was cheap and construction costs
were so low that building a five bedroom villa wasn't much
more expensive than building a two bedroom.
These people often have quite a bit of extra space and might
not mind exchanging it for some cash flow every month. Like
any other shared situation, chemistry can make or break the
arrangement but if you find someone you click with it a can
be a win-win.
Obviously the good thing about renting a room in this way
this is that things like utilities, Internet access, maid service,
miscellaneous repairs and other details will be taken care of
and included in whatever price you negotiate with the owner.
Not only can this kind of setup be a practical, low-cost way
of staying in Bali for a while, it will probably jumpstart your
social life. Price: 100% negotiable4 million rupiah/month
and up? Just put the word out when you meet people.

42

Long-term Hotel Stays -- If you are not interested in

acquiring your own furniture or cooking for yourself consider
approaching the owner of a cheap hotel and asking about
renting one of his rooms by the month. Even in busy areas
most hotels are unlikely to be completely full every night and
you might get lucky and find someone willing to trade a room
for some guaranteed monthly income.
In the last several years there has been overbuilding of midrange hotels in Legian and Seminyak, going for
400,000-600,000/night; if you bargain hard you might be
able to get a room by the month for half that. This wouldnt
be my first budget choice with the current kost situation but
many cheap hotels are quite well located and this kind of
turnkey living suits somea friend did it for months and
appreciated the included buffet breakfast!
Home Exchange -- Maybe youre intrigued by a long-term
Bali stay but have a house youd rather not sell or get a tenant
for. Have you heard of home exchanges? Home swap
websites hook you up with people whod like to trade use of
their property for short or long stays in other parts of the
world. Filter for interesting destinations and you might be
surprised what is suddenly possible. We were!
Especially if youre Australian: with so many Aussies owning
property or on long-term leases in Bali, Ill bet there are a
few who might no longer have a base in Oz whod love to
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43

spend a few months (maybe even a few months per year)

back in the city theyre from in Australia. Your place in
Sydney or Perth might be perfect for them, and vice versa.
Sound unlikely? I only mention it because weve done two
home exchanges, through homeforexchange.com, and
though the idea of letting strangers stay in your house will
take some getting used to, with lots of communication
beforehand (video chat is your friend), choosing people
whove garnered positive feedback on the site, and a little bit
of flexibility from both parties home swapping is a good
option for some. Best case its a combination of real savings
and comfort for a longer-term trip to Bali. I think both
families with whom we exchanged our Bali property would
agree. Try homeforexchange.com or get a Bali Advertiser ad.
A Couple of Thoughts on Bali Accommodations:
Houses and Motorcycles
I have a section in this guide about transportation, but it
plays directly into living accommodations too. You could
have your heart set on a nice house at a great price, but you
need to be clear on how youll get around.
Motorcycles are the preferred method for most people, and I
know people in their 70s whose lifeline is still their bike. I also
know 20-somethings for whom they are out of the question,
and who choose a combination of walking and taxis.
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44

Of course buying a car is an option, and if you have parking

at your house it might seem like the answer. Keep a few
things in mind though: traffic has gotten a lot worse in the
last few years. Parking for cars is often a problem. The streets
in Legian, Seminyak, Kerobokan, simply werent made for
the current volume of traffic, especially at certain times of
the day or in high season, and you do see outright gridlock
sometimes.
For some people reading this a motorbike will be a clear
solution no matter where youre staying. If youre living away
from busy areas, such as outside Ubud or in Canggu a car
would be much more attractive than if you lived near the
beach in Seminyak. If youre not comfortable on a motorbike
staying in Legian, Seminyak or Petitenget a mix of walking
and taxis can work because of the relatively short distances
youd want to go.
Open Floor Plans and the Bali Villa Dream
A friend came to Bali recently, intent on finding a place in a
very secluded area in Bali so he could work on a project.
I suggested he at least take a look at houses in busier areas
with more infrastructure because he might find the privacy
he had in mind behind the high walls of a house.
That Bali villa livin. Its life in a tropical garden with all
the comforts of home.
!

45

Heres the interesting thing about houses or villas in Bali.

Often they have so-called open floor plans, i.e. a living area
without walls, open to the elements, and enclosed, airconditioned bedrooms, all behind high walls giving you
privacy. (Most people find A/C more comfortable for
sleeping, and far fewer mosquitoes)
It makes for a kind of indoor/outdoor living that fits the
environment here. Not having to go out to be outside, and
being outside while in your comfortable living room sipping a
cool drink is really, really enjoyable, even in the rainy season.
Its by no means only expensive houses that have his layout
either. You see the cutest little places with open floor plans,
maybe with no pool, or a plunge pool. Id strongly suggest at
least looking at places like this before you commit to an
apartment or standard house.
Here are some examplesyou can see how opulent it gets!
https://goo.gl/aGLJY7
We rented three different houses for several months before
we bought our condo (not as nice as the houses at the
previous link, but we were happy) They all had open floor
plans, and sometimes on a full moon evening I think how
nice it would be to be sitting outside enjoying it, or taking a
midnight swim in the pool in a warm rain. OK, the

46

mosquitos can be a little tiresome. You could debate this all

day but itll come down to your own priorities.
A Couple More Thoughts
For online searches
for a place, filter for
the area, size house or
a p a r t m e n t yo u re
thinking of, choose
monthly and check
the prices. If you find
a place that looks
interesting filter again
for yearly and you
might see the same
places available by
t h e y e a r. T h i s
indicates how much
you stand to save
renting long term.
Also, owners who are
flexible as to term might by extension also be flexible pricewise. See the photos to the left on this and the next page; the
same place month vs year.

47

As Ive said, you

should regard all
asking prices online
as negotiable. Id
start at about 70%
of the asking price,
unless I really liked a
place; just to see
what happens.
Maybe you get it for
80% of what they
a r e a s k i n g. A ny
discount will add up,
especially if you rent
for multiple years.
The agent wont
want to negotiate at
all, naturally.
You have time on your sideassuming you have the energy
and there are many available places in 2016. Let them
know youre in no hurry. Pay very close attention to the
condition of *everything*, from the electrical to the water,
down to the toaster.
Very important: Consider the age of the structure. Especially
for older houses, be aware that things will tend to break,
maybe more than youre used to in the West. Maybe its the
humidity.
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48

Insist on meeting the owner for a face-to-face and cover

verbally who will pay for repairs when things like plumbing
or a refrigerator breaks. Dont be at all surprised if the owner
is in Jakarta and totally unavailable. At least ask. You will
have little recourse if things do go wrong with plumbing,
appliances, etc., but creating some connection with them if
you can might increase your chances of having them
cooperate to pay for their property. Or, it might not.
It has to be said: Ive known people who were basically on
their own once money changed hands; again usually 100% of
the lease amount is due up front so your leverage is limited
from then on.
This is another reason why Id have no qualms about playing
hardball as we say in the US regarding price. Getting a place
for 500k or 1 million/month cheaper might well simply end
up going into fixing things, especially if the house is old.
Its also a reason to go with an apartment or kost,
with a manager. Especially if you can rent by the
month.
And yet if you can find a villa you love that has been wellmaintained, it really can be an amazing lifestyle.
Still with me? Maybe Ive gone on longer than I needed to.

49

Bottom line: whatever your accommodation preferences and

budget are you can probably find it in Bali in 2016.

50

Transportation
Its a good idea to get an International drivers license in your
home country before you leave. Usually having one, plus
your regular license, is more than enough to rent a motorbike
or a car. Driving conventionsif you can call them that
are different in Asia than what youre used to, so youll do a
certain amount of re-learning.
Especially if you have little experience on motorcycles, you
will want to take it slow over toward the left curb, stay

51

relaxed but not hesitant, loose without weeping openly, and

hyper-alert.
Ill say it frankly: in Bali the tourists, especially the young
ones, pose greater danger to you than the locals, whove been
riding conservatively (usually) since they were teenagers. In
the rainy season things get more dangerous.
I should be clear too: its probably a matter not of if but
when youll be involved in a traffic mishap of some kind. I
have to think for a while to come up with someone whos
been riding for more than a year who hasnt been injured in
some way.

Cars
More and more Indonesians are buying cars. If youre set on
buying a car, financing will be difficult if youre a foreigner,
though having a KITAS/residence permit might increase
your chances. Maybe you can work something out with an
Indonesian friend. Personally Id rent a car by the month
before Id buy (see below).
If youve been coming to Bali for years youll notice that the
volume of cars in 2016 is far higher than it was even a few
years ago, especially in the south of Bali.

52

Id say a car might be a good idea if

you have kids
you live out far enough that you can miss a lot of the
heavy traffic as you run errands, and youd like to buy in bulk
when you shop for groceries.
you dont mind spending a lot of time in stop-and-go
traffic when you are basically anywhere south of Denpasar.
You have a house with parking.
There are a reasons to avoid getting a car too:
you will spend more time getting from place to place
than you would on a bike. Youll be less nimble in stop-andgo traffic.
Parking for cars simply doesnt exist in many places. The
small pieces of disused land that often constitute parking
lots are disappearing for new buildings, as a function of land
value now, especially in the south of Bali.
Renting a car
Can you drive yourself ? Absolutely. The rental company
might be satisfied with your current drivers license for your
home country, or an International drivers license. Otherwise
theyll most likely offer to take you to the relevant
government office to get an Indonesian license. Its painless.
A drivers license from your home country is probably
enough to get at least a temporary Indonesian equivalent
(this holds for a car or a motorbike). A US drivers license has

53

been enough for me to get a temporary Indonesian license

for both cars and motorbikes in the past.
Having said all that, for day trips I just get a driver nowadays.
Getting a car and driver periodically (eg when youre
scouting places to live) may sound extravagant, but its
common in Bali for at least 3 reasons:
If youre new to driving in Asia youll probably find
driving in Bali somewhere between fairly stressful and
extremely stressful.
You dont really spend more money, versus renting a car
with no driver.
If youre exploring the island its easier to relax and take
in your surroundings.
Daily rentals: in 2016 you should be able to negotiate a
deal with one of the drivers wholl approach you constantly
for about 400,000 rupiah for the whole day, depending on
the season and the car.
By the month: I have Indonesian friends renting cars by
the month now. As a foreigner you might have to pay more
than roughly 3.5 million/month (and up) that a local might
pay. One of my friends went through the company at the link
here, Id call them: balioh.com/sewa-mobil-matic-di-bali/

54

I also have friends who pay a person with a car to be their

driver, by the month. All things considered, you can find
drivers more inclined to take a guaranteed monthly sum from
you to quit having to sit outside day and night waiting for
tourists. The price would be highly negotiable, several million
a month at least. Go slowly and dont broach the subject until
you know a driver quite well. Youd prefer good character as
much as a competent driver. From what Ive seen the driver
becomes a general aide or right hand man, which can be
extremely handy, if you find the right person.
Motorcycles
Renting a motorcycle couldnt be easier, as you know if
youve ever visited Bali. Daring to walk down the street as a
foreigner rather than being on two wheels is apparently a
personal affront to the rental guys you find every few feet. If
its not too hot sometimes I tell them in Bahasa Indonesia
Im just walking. Its not a political statement. Anyway, its
always a renters market.
Ask for the best price (harga terbaik) by the month if youre
staying long term. In 2016 you really shouldnt have to pay
more than 600,000 rupiah/month for a longer-term rental,
maybe less depending on the season. Make sure that a helmet
is included with the bike and the compartment below the seat
locks securely, as it should. Do look the bike over
mechanically, sometimes something is broken or faulty. After
falling off a rented bike once I discovered the front wheel
bearing was in pieces. Id be wrong not to warn you.
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55

A word about getting pulled over by the police on your

motorcycle, or in a car, because this can become expensive.
Some say a disproportionate amount of visitors to Bali are
stopped by the police, compared to Indonesians. Whether
this is true or not, if you find yourself stopped you'll normally
be offered the option to pay the fine on the spot. It's cheaper
and much easier, for both you and the officer, to pay on the
street than it is to go to the police station. Be sure and ask for
clarification as to the exact amount of the fine several times,
to avoid miscommunication. Just like back home be sure and
smile, relax and resist any urge to rush the process at all. Ive
heard the fines are variable depending on how cooperative
one is.
Ojek--If you don't want to drive yourself around on a
motorcycle, another way to get around that is used by
Indonesian locals is using an 'ojek', a motorcycle taxi. Many
tourists end up paying about the same for an ojek ride as they
would for a taxi, but as part of the local economy you'll know
that for a ride of a mile or a couple of kilometers you
shouldnt pay more than about 10,000 rupiah, especially in
the daytime. If you don't rent your own motorcycle get to
know ojek drivers because it will be easier than a taxi when
theres traffic, and certainly cheaper. Often guys with bikes
will offer you a ride if youre walking, but agree on a price
before you get on and be careful at night.

56

Taxi--If you need to take a taxi for whatever reason (some

expats I know forgo motorcycles entirely in favor of a
combination of walking, ojeks and taxis) always look for a
Bluebird taxi.
Many of the drivers for other taxi companies are polite and
not out to cheat you, but unfortunately especially after dark
taking anything but a Bluebird taxi will often result in tedious
arguments over using the meter and 'forgetting' to turn it on
if you don't ask, accompanied by extortionate demands as
you exit the taxi. There is none of this nonsense with
Bluebird, ever; the taxis are spotless, with A/C, the meters
arent played with and in 2016 the meter drop is only 7,000
rupiah, same as the other companies.
In many places a taxi would not be a long-term option for
getting around cheaply. In Bali it wont break your budget.
Its safer, more comfortable and less stressful than renting a
motorcycle. Ive done it both ways for years and I dont even
have a bike anymore, although I do live in a very central
location. It as to be said that the further from the crowded
areas you go the longer it will take to get a taxi. All in all, not
having a bike (or car) if you live away from crowded areas
will make life very difficult.
As I said earlier, you have to take transportation into account
when settling on a place to stay, especially if you arent
comfortable on a motorcycle.

57

Uber, Grab and Gojek OK, Ill dive into this touchy
subject. The sharing economy has come to Bali (Airbnb is
certainly here too, see the Accommodation section) and these
three ride-sharing services have disrupted the taxi situation in
Bali. (Grab and Gojek are Indonesian ride-sharing
companies, and Gojek also does great food deliveries too:
same app, look for the Go-food icon)
These companies have apps you instal on your phone. The
interface is simple to use. You can see just how far your driver
is from you and how much youll pay for the ride. You can
just pay cash.
You will tend to pay less for rides using these services than
you will for a taxi, sometimes a lot less over longer distances
or if there is traffic. You can get dropped off anywhere but
you might not be able to get a car if youre in an area where
taxi drivers have put up No Uber/Grab/Gojek signs.
Battles between these services and the incumbent taxi
services are playing out all over the world, but its hard to
know how well go back to the old way, especially when the
new way tends to be cheaper and more efficient.
Side Trips Outside of BaliEven if youre on a real
budget in Bali chances are you'll want to do a side trip to
somewhere else in the region, either on a visa run or at the
end of your visit. Most cost-conscious expats I know look no
further than the http://AirAsia.com website for flights both
throughout Southeast Asia and around Indonesia. As with
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58

most budget carriers you can expect to enjoy big discounts if

you are flexible as to your dates and times, and if you can
book more than 30 days in advance. Get on the Air Asia
newsletter immediately because they offer really remarkable
deals.

59

Miscellaneous Tips
Insurance Conventional travelers insurance might not
be what you need if you are staying for several months or
more in Bali. I always kept my US coverage current but
never felt 100% assured that my wife and I would be covered
if something happened in a faraway place.
Send us the hospital bills, I was told. You are where?
A few years ago a friend mentioned Morgan Price, who offers
essentially catastrophic coverage policies by which youre
covered everywhere in the world *except* your home
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60

country, including (from Bali) air evacuation to Singapore or

Australia should you need it.
Of course everyones situation is different in terms of health,
age and finances but as a starting point Id recommend you
contact Natalie of AsiaLife in Bali at natalie@asialife.net to
get your questions answered. I get no compensation for
pointing you toward her by the way.
Bali Hospitals Ive said it before, its best to be a healthy
expat. Things are improving but you cant expect health care
in Bali to be on par with the developed world, yet. For
emergencies ambulances might not be available either.
Having said that, for problems that arent life threatening you
can find good care at hospitals here. Ive had more
experience than Id have preferred with Bali hospitals (well
wed always prefer fewer experiences with hospitals!). Three
Id recommend are:
BIMC
SILOM
KASIH IBU (location on Jalan Teuku Umar, the road to
Denpasar)
In practice many foreigners head home, or to Singapore or
maybe Bumrungrad Hospital in Bangkok for more serious
things, or checkups. (Adventist Hospital in Penang, Malaysia

61

also is very good, and less expensive than Singapore or

Bumrungrad)
Medication availability in Bali is pretty good and if you need
a drug thats not available in Indonesia I can report that
weve certainly had prescription medications delivered by
DHL or FedEx from the US.
Maids if you rent a house or villa its likely that a maid
will already be working there. If it sounds like a slightly
awkward extravagance, know that in Bali it is a relatively
well-paid, (usually) low-stress job that local women (virtually
always women) are happy to have.
In the first house we rented I learned my place in the order of
things when our maid Komang literally grabbed the cleaning
supplies out of my hand when one of the house dogs decided
that a bed was a perfect place to have her puppies.
Thank you Komang, if you insist, a thousand thank yous!
Your maid will be happy to cook per your preferences, and
do things like shop and run errands for you. Its very handy
to have someone to deal with things like random people
knocking at the door, deliveries or repair people when
something needs fixing, especially if your Bahasa Indonesia
isnt yet fluent.

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Eating!
In the conventional markets youll find familiar imported
brands, and if youre really missing something there are
markets offering a pretty wide range of imported products,
though it can really cost you.
Still, dont miss the traditional markets, especially the night
markets (pasar malam) not just for saving money but for a
fun night out and an authentic experience. Heres a nice
article listing some of Balis better night markets, with maps:
http://www.bali-indonesia.com/magazine/5-best-bali-nightmarkets.htm#
If you dont have a maid, you might find yourself eating out
quite a bit. I suggest you dont resist! Why? Bali offers
incredibly good value for money in restaurants of every price
range, from the cheapest local eatery to high-end
establishments you see profiled in glossy travel magazines.
Restaurant competition is so fierce here that youll enjoy
eating out no matter what your preference. Competition also
works to keep hygiene generally excellent, even in cheaper
establishments. Especially in the age of TripAdvisor and
Yelp, owners are very motivated to maintain high standards
and their online reputation.
As I mentioned earlier, Bali attracts Indonesians from all over,
and so local warungswhere one usually just points at food
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on heaping dishes behind glassreflect the culinary variety

of the entire archipelago: Padang food from Sumatra is on
every corner, as is food from Java and Sulawesi, etc. Do
yourself a favor and allow yourself some adventure, foodwise. Its a high point of visiting Indonesia and Bali lets you
explore cuisines from most regions right here.
In the same way, Im still amazed at the variety and quality of
non-Indonesian restaurants in Bali. Turkish, Argentinean,
Belgian, Hawaiian plate lunch, interesting fusion concepts
you name it!created by people who fell in love with Bali
and are motivated to stay, and funnel that motivation into
terrific eating for you.
Like a lot of newcomers I considered opening a restaurant or
cafe in Bali when I first arrived, but seeing the rapid turnover
of restaurants here convinced me it was better to be a
customer than a proprietor. A mans gotta know his
limitations.
Thats me though. Especially if you are a professional, you
certainly could make a successful go of it.
A word about warungs. If you havent traveled much in
Southeast Asia or places like India you might be amazed at
just how little you can spend to eat well in Bali. After your
first 12,000 rupiah meal at a Java-style warung, youll realize
you really can be here cheaply without compromising taste or
your health.
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For water, expect to have a large bottle on a dispenser at your

place. Youll probably drink much more here in the tropics,
and you should do so. The ubiquitous 19-liter Aqua bottle
(known as a ga-lone) is still only only about 22,000 delivered
in 2016, cheaper if you can lug it your place on your
motorbike, or if your maid is able to get it to you.
Theres so much to tell about eating in Indonesia that Im
reluctant to even begin to detail it. One could do a whole
guide covering Indonesian food easily, and maybe I will.
I will say that the incredible fruits and vegetables are a high
point. You might never have tasted so many fruits that
actually ripened before they were picked.
Ill limit specific recommendations to one item: order a
young coconut (kelapa muda) maybe with some squeezed
lime in it. Incredibly refreshing on a hot day.
Buying things generally
For larger items consider buying used. People are leaving Bali
all the time and simply need to get rid of every imaginable
item. A good place to start if you want basic necessities such
as a fridge or cheap TV is the Bali Advertiser.
For new larger items and shopping in bulk we usually go to
Carrefour on Sunset Road or similar bulk retailers.

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ATMs--virtually all travelers and Indonesians seem to use

ATM cards nowadays, and ATM machines are plentiful all
over Bali. However, you should contact your bank before you
leave home and check on the amount that they charge you
for international ATM transactions. This can be US$5 or
more per transaction, so if you can get a manager to remove
this surcharge it will add up to quite a lot of money saved. At
least you can minimize your transaction fees by getting the
maximum amount out with each transaction. The highest
Ive seen in Bali is 3 million rupiah.
While on the subject I should suggest that you favor ATMs
connected to banks or at least in busy areas. ATM machines
are sometimes tampered with and fraud does happen. While
its usually part of a sudden local pattern of thefts of which
the authorities are aware which hopefully makes it easier
to get your money back its still stressful of course.
Internet, Cheaply--Staying connected to your online life is
less of a luxury than it used to be, and far easier in Bali than
it used to be too.
Mobile: If you have an unlocked phone you can get a local
SIM card with a phone + data plan from a major Indonesian
carrier like Telkomsel or XL for 180,000 rupiah in 2016.
Then get a monthly prepaid plan that lets you pay
something like 50k rupiah each month for 1.5 Gb of data.
Thats enough for me for a month and I stream a lot. In 2016
3G coverage is spotty outside of the touristed parts of Bali.
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If your phone isnt unlocked, well.you could get a cheap

Android device in Bali if you want to be constantly
connected. Theyre certainly available for less than a million
rupiah.
Home connections are getting cheaper, faster and more
reliable all the time. If you rent a house you might already be
hooked up hardware-wise. If not, check to see if youre in an
area where Biznet is rolling out fiber optic connections for as
little as 300,000/mo for 10 Mbps and a cable package:
biznethome.net/en/service/biznet-home-combo/
If youre out of Biznets coverage area and youre starting
from scratch Id ask the neighbors what provider they use, as
coverage really depends on your area. Id certainly ask the
property owner to split the cost of upgrading his
infrastructure.
Many restaurants and cafs still make you ask for a password
for free wifi, but its very rare youll be in a restaurant without
it.
Co-working spots are also popping up everywhere from
Legian to Canggu and up to Ubud. Heres a very good
recent article listing several: https://www.techinasia.com/
coworking-spaces-in-bali-indonesia

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_________________________________________________
_________________________________________________
I hope you found this guide helpful. Thanks for reading.
If you need a new start or just a side trip for a month or
three, I hope the info here helps you make a better decision
as to whether Bali might be a place for it, or not.
Please email this guide to anyone you think might be
interested.
See you at WageFreedom.com !Tom Mullaly
P.S. Dont miss the Bali-related links and the Walk Through
Bintang Supermarket sections, below.

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Bali-related links
Bali Advertiser expat newspaper, real estate section
http://www.baliadvertiser.biz/current_ads/real_estate.html
Bali Internet forum:
http://www.balitravelforum.com/
Facebook: https://www.google.com/search?q=bali
+forum&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b#q=bali
+facebook+pages
Bali real estate:
https://www.balilongtermrentals.com
http://www.balibudgethousing.com/rentals-category/ubud/
Bali kost rental web page:
http://www.rumahkostbali.com/
Home exchange website:
http://www.homeforexchange.com/index2.php
Bali car rentals:
http://www.balioh.com/sewa-mobil-matic-di-bali/
Long-term travel/expat insurance (Bali agent I use):
natalie@asialife.net

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Hospitals:
BIMC bimcbali.com
Silom siloamhospitals.com/our-hospitals/read/bimchospital-kuta.html
Kasih Ibu on Jl. Teuku Umar (less expensive)
www.kasihibuhospital.com
Bumrungrad (Bangkok) www.bumrungrad.com
Adventist (Penang, Malaysia) www.pah.com.my

Special Bonus section pp. 71-75

A Walk Through Bintang Supermarket!

I thought it might be helpful to show a few available
items and actual prices in June 2016. Located right on
Jalan Legian, this Seminyak institution has it all, at
prices that pretty typical for Bali.
This might help: xe.com/currencyconverter/

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2016 BALI STARTER GUIDE

HOW TO MAKE YOUR BASE IN PARADISE

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