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Tubing

Most tubing used in refrigeration and air conditioning is made of copper. However, some
aluminum, steel and stainless steel tubing is also used. For applications with corrosive refrigerants
such as ammonia, or in corrosive environment for example chemical industry, stainless steel tubes
have to be used to prevent leakage by corrosion.
Instructions in this lesson will deal mainly with copper tubing.
All tubing used in refrigeration and air conditioning is manufactured carefully to guarantee
cleanness and dryness inside.
The ends of tubes must be kept sealed until they are used.

Copper tubing
Most copper tubing used in air conditioning and refrigeration work is known as
Air Conditioning and Refrigeration (ACR) tubing.
The tubing is intended for refrigeration and air conditioning. It has been processed to give the
desired characteristics.
To eliminate the danger of oxidation inside the tube, ACR tubes are usually charged with gaseous
nitrogen (N2). All tubing ends should be plugged immediately after cutting a length from a coil or
bar.
Copper tubing is available in soft and hard types. Both are available in different wall thicknesses.

Common wall thicknesses:


Inch tube sizes
The ASTM Standard B280 specifies air conditioning and refrigeration (ACR) tubes for refrigeration
service. Types K, L, M designate descending wall thicknesses for copper tubes. All types have the
same outside diameter (OD) for corresponding sizes.

Type K heavy wall supplied in 20 bars (hard drawn)

Type L medium wall supplied in 25, 50, and 100 rolls (soft drawn)

Type M thin wall supplied in 25, 50, and 100 rolls (soft drawn)

Type K heavy wall is available in hard and soft temper.


Type L medium wall is available in hard and soft temper.

Type K is used where corrosion conditions are severe.


Type L and M are used where conditions may be considered normal.
Note:
Wall thickness is usually specified in thousandths of an inch.

See table 1 of common copper tube diameters and wall thickness.


Outside
Diameter

Wall
Thickness

1/4

.030

3/8

.032

1/2

.032

5/8

.035

3/4

.035

7/8

.045

1 1/8

.050

1 3/8

.050

Table 1: Copper tube sizes used in refrigeration work. Both soft- and hard-drawn sizes are the

same as the measurements listed in the table. Outside diameter size for this tubing is the
actual outside diameter of tube.

Another type of copper tubing used in heating and plumbing is called nominal size. This type of
copper tubing is used on water lines, drains and in other applications. They are not cleaned and
dried inside. The usage of nominal size tubes will cause malfunctions inside the refrigerant system.
(E.g. blocked strainers)
Never use nominal size copper tubes with refrigerants!

Metric tube sizes:


The DIN 8905 specifies ACR tubes for refrigeration service with different wall thicknesses too.

Wall thickness 1mm for tubes with outside diameter from 4 mm up to 15 mm


supplied in 25 m to 35 m rolls according OD (soft drawn)

Wall thickness 1.5 mm for tubes with outside diameter from 18 mm up to 22 mm


supplied in 25 m rolls (soft and hard drawn)

Wall thickness 2 mm for tubes with outside diameter from 28 mm up to 42 mm


supplied in 5 m bars (hard drawn)

Wall thickness 2.5 mm for tubes with outside diameter from 54 mm up to 76 mm


supplied in 5 m bars (hard drawn)

Outside

Wall

Nominal

Diameter mm

Thickness mm

Size mm

10

12

10

15

13

18

1.5

15

22

1.5

19

28

24

35

31

42

38

54

2.5

49

76

2.5

71

Table 2: Metric copper tube sizes used in refrigeration work. Both soft- and hard-drawn sizes are
the same as the dimensions listed in the above table. Outside diameter size for this tubing is the
actual outside diameter of tube.

Soft copper tubing:


Soft copper tubing is used in domestic and in some commercial refrigeration and air conditioning
work. It is annealed (heated and then allowed to cool). This process makes the tubes flexible, easy
to bend and to flare.
Soft copper tubing is most often used in connection with flared fittings. Being easily bent, this
tubing must be supported by clamps or brackets.
Tubing must be installed so that there is no strain and no vibration on it when the work is
completed.

Hard drawn copper tubing:


Hard drawn copper tubing is used in commercial refrigeration and air conditioning applications.
Being hard and stiff, it needs few clamps or supports, particularly in larger diameters.
Hard tubing must not be bent. Use straight lengths, elbows, tee fittings etc. to form necessary
tubing connections.
Hard drawn refrigeration tubing joints should be brazed. Soft solder should be used only on water
and drain lines.
Hard drawn tubing is supplied in bars of 5 m lengths. It is available in the same diameters and wall
thicknesses as soft drawn copper tubing. (See table 1 and 2)

Nominal size copper tubing:


Nominal size copper tubing is a type used on water lines, drains and in other applications. Nominal
size copper tubing is never used with refrigerants. It is available in both soft- and hard drawn
grades.
Copper tubing used for such applications is often referred to by its nominal size. If you measure the
outside diameter (OD), you will notice that the OD is 1/8 inch larger than that listed under nominal
size.
When purchasing fittings for this tubing, it is important that the fitting size is the same as the size
tubing purchased.
You should use all the tubing, valves, controllers etc. by nominal size or use all by OD, to avoid
problems.

Steel tubing:
Some steel tubing is used in refrigeration and air conditioning work. These sizes are practically the
same as for copper tubing. Connections may be made on steel tubing either by flared joints (for
thin wall tubing only) by flanges, by brazing or welding.
Copper tubing must not be used with refrigerant R 717 (Ammonia). Use steel or stainless tubing
instead.
There is a chance of chemical reaction (corrosion) between copper and ammonia.

Stainless steel tubing:


Stainless steel tubing comes in the typical refrigeration tube sizes. The most common sizes are
listed in the table 3.
Stainless steel is strong and very resistant to corrosion. It may easily connected to fittings by so
called swagelok fittings (see figure 1) or by electric welding with inert gas.
Stainless steel is often used in food processing, ice cream manufacture, dairying, chemical plants
and others.
Stainless steel is not magnetic.

Fractions

1/4

Millimeter

6.35

Outside diameter
3/8
1/2
5/8
9.52

3/4

12.7 15.87 19.05 25.4

Table 3: Diameter of common stainless steel tubing

Figure 1: Swagelok fitting

1 1/4
31.75

Tube cutting methods


Many methods of cutting metal tubing have been introduced through the years. The two most
common methods in use today with accompanying advantages and disadvantages are listed as
follows:

Hack sawing (Hand operated)


Important: A standard hacksaw utilizing a 32 tooth (32 teeth per inch) blade is normally used.

Advantages
-

Minimizes work hardening of tubing edge. Important when flaring stainless steel
tubing.

Readily available tool

Disadvantages
-

Difficult to achieve a square cut without the aid of a sawing fixture to ensure square
and accurate cuts.

Danger of introducing fine chips into the tubing system.

Score marks and nicks are produced if improper tube holding means is utilized.

Note: When cutting tubing with a hacksaw, do not allow the chips to fall into the section
that is to be used.

Tube cutter method


Tube cutter is engaged with tubing, a cutting wheel is feed inwardly while revolving cutter around
tube.

Advantages
-

Assurance of a square cut.

Minimizes internal and external burrs if properly used.

Easy to operate, permits rapid cut offs.

Cutting wheels can be replaced easily.

Clamping of tubing is not necessary, can be hand held.

Easily operated in tight areas.

No danger of chips entering tube.

No thinning of tube edge.

Disadvantages
-

Excessive tube end reduction and work hardening be introduced if a dull or poorly
designed cutter wheel is used and when excessive feed-in is attempted.

Never use a tube cutter on stainless steel tubing that is to be flared. The work
hardening introduced by the cutting operation will cause splitting and cracking of the
flares.

Cutting tools
There are many different types of cutting tools used on copper and steel tubing. These tools are
described as followed.

Figure 1: Various types of tube cutters


To cut tubing, the usage of tube cutter is recommended. Tube cutters are used to cut soft and hard
drawn copper tubes from 1/8 inch to 2 inch. The hacksaw is preferred for cutting larger, hard
copper tubing. If a saw is used, a wave set blade of 32 teeth per inch will do the best job. Before
cutting, the tubing should be straight and cut squarely (90) to eliminate so called off-centre flares.

Figure 2 illustrates a wheel type cutter with a fold away reamer blade.

The cutter usually leaves some sharp burrs on the cut ends. Burrs must be removed by reaming.
To provide a full wall thickness at the end of the tubing, technicians often file the end of the
tubing using a smooth or medium cut mill file instead of a reamer.
Again, do not allow any filings, chips or other materials to fall into the tubing.

For details of how to prepare end of tubing see figures 3 to 5.

Tightening knob

Fold away reamer blade

Figure 2: Typical standard tube cutter


Cutting wheel

Grooved roller

Note attached reamer which is used to remove burrs from inside of tube after cutting. Grooves in
the rollers allow cutter to be used to remove flare from tube with only little tubing waste.

Burrs on the cut ends

Figure 3: Tube after being cut by tube cutter

Figure 4: Tube after being squared with a file

Figure 5: Tube filed, reamed and ready for flaring

For confined areas, technicians can use a mini tubing cutter. Its operation is similar to the standard
tube cutter.

Figure 6: Mini tubing cutter used


in compact areas

Cutting wheel

Tightening knob

Cutting wheel
Roller pins

Grooved roller

Figure 7: Fast action tube cutter

Tightening knob
Fast action system

Uncoil soft drawn copper tubes

Before cutting soft drawn copper tube which comes on rings by tube cutter, make sure to uncoil
tube in the recommended manner.

Very important:
Uncoil the soft copper tube and straighten it
before cutting.

Cut here in this straighten area

Figure 8

Dont cut
here

Never uncoil copper tube as shown


here. After cutting in this manner
waste of material will be the result. It is
impossible to straighten cupper tube
end after cutting.

Figure 9

Cutting tubing

Position cutter on tubing in a manner which will permit feeding in while rotating the tool. This
procedure can be utilized when cuts are made on any straighten point of tube. This will be
especially helpful when cutting close to the tube end. When a cutter is used in this manner, the
possibility of dropping the tool on completion of cut is minimized.
(See figures 10 to 20)

Position cutter on tubing, feed in


cutter wheel gradually by tightening
knob, rotate the tool around the
tubing.
(See figures 10 and 11)

Figure 10

Figure 11

Continue feeding in cutter wheel


gradually and rotating cutter
around the tubing.
(See figures 11 to 14)

Figure 12

Figure 13
Continue feeding in cutter wheel
gradually and rotating cutter
around the tubing.

Figure 14

Figure 15

Note: Never attempt to cut pipe by forced


feeding in the cutter wheel. Feed in cutter
wheel gradually taking light cuts while
rotating the tool around the tubing.

Continue feeding in cutter wheel


gradually and rotating cutter
around the tubing.
(See figures 16 to 19)

Figure 16

Figure 17

Figure 18

Figure 19

Burrs inside tubing

Figure 20 shows cut tubing.


Note burrs inside the tubing

Figure 20

Important after cutting:

If soft tubing is used, pinch the end of the tube on the unused side of the cut. This eliminates the
danger of chips entering the tubing. It also seals the tubing against moisture and protects it until its
used. In hard copper tubing install plastic cap or plug the ends of the unused section.

How to cut capillary tubes?

To cut capillary tubes a special capillary cuter is recommended. A capillary cutter is a unique tool
to cut all sizes of any capillary tubes without swadging the tube diameter.

Figure 21: Capillary tube cutter


Another recommended method to cut capillary tube is to use a triangular file. Generally the sharp
corner of triangular file is used to cut a groove around the capillary tube periphery. Parting of the
tube is then accomplished by flexing the tube at the grooved area.
These two methods prevent tube end closure and consequent flow restriction.

Tube cutter maintenance.

1. Keep the wheel shaft, rollers and sliding parts lubricated at all times. A well oiled tool will
operate easier, function better and last longer.

2. Replace dull or chipped cutter wheels promptly. Defective wheels contribute to work hardening
of tubing at point of cut and also impose a greater working load on tool and technician.

3. Replace worn parts promptly. A worn component will eventually lead to failure of other tool
parts.

4. Remove chips, dirt and other foreign matter from working parts periodically.

Flaring:
Tubing walls are too thin for threading. Therefore, other methods of joining tubing to tubing and
tubing to fittings must be used. The three common methods are:

Flared connections

Soldered connections

Brazed connections

Flared connections
When connecting tubing to fittings, it is common practice to flare the end of the tube. Fittings
designed to grip the tube are then used. To make a flare of the correct size and shape, special
tools are required.
Before flaring, tube ends must be carefully prepared. To cut tubing in the proper way, use either
standard- or mini type tube cutter to cut smaller tubes, or use hacksaw to cut larger hard drawn
tubes. Make sure tubes are cut squarely. Use a sawing fixture to ensure square and accurate cuts
for cutting hard- drawn copper or steel tubing. Figure 8a, b and c shows the steps necessary to
prepare a tube end for flaring.

Before you start flaring:


Remove internal and external burrs.
Use inner and / or outer reamer.
Use a burring reamer to remove the slight burr remaining after the cut operation.
Never jam reamer into the tube end. Use the reamer like a paring knife and shave the internal and
external burrs from tubing. The stabilized single cutting edge of reamer blade is specifically
designed for this use and will produce smooth and chatter free results. Use great care that no
filings and chips enter the tubing

Figure 1: Various types of reamers

Deburring tool set for


precision deburring on
bores and tubing with
swivelling blade.

Figure 2
Various blades for different

Countersink and deburrer 90

materials and applications

with plastic handle

are available

Countersink angle 90 ,
3 flutes

Inner outer reamer

Figure 4

Figure 5

This side is used to ream inside of

This side is used to ream outside of

tube.

tube.

Fold away reamer blade

Figure 6

Using a slabbing cut drill reamer


with handle will show excellent
results on tube ends.

Figure 7
Tube cutter with fold away reamer blade

The tube end after being


cut with standard or mini
type tube cutter.
Notice burrs inside the
tube end.
Figure 8 a

Tube end after being


squared with a file.
(Recommended when hard
drawn copper tube has
been cut by hacksaw)
Figure 8 b

Tube end filed with a


single cut, smooth flat
hand file, or reamed
with a reamer shown
on figure 2.
Tube is now ready for
flaring.
Figure 8 c

Flared connections
Introduction
The flaring tools currently in use by Refrigeration technicians consists of two basic types:
Compression and generator type.

Compression type.

Tools of this type consist of a tube holding device the so called flaring bar or flaring block and a
yoke assembly comprised of a feed screw and a smooth surfaced flare compression cone.
The tubing is clamped in the flaring bar, yoke is engaged and feed screw advanced until a
moderate resistance is encountered. At this point the tubing has been spread, and is compressed
against the countersink in the bar. During this operation, the cone does not revolve.

Advantages:
1. Moderate priced tool.
2. Forms accurate flares.
3. Easily operated in narrow places.
4. Covers wide range of tubing diameter.

Disadvantages:
Improper flares can be formed if specific operating instructions are not followed. A poorly designed
tool will also contribute to faulty flares, i.e. undercutting at base of flare, eccentric flares, scored
flare seating surfaces.

Figure 9

Generator
Tools of this type consist of a tube holding device, a yoke assembly, comprised of a feed screw
and a flare generating cone.
Two basic flare generating cone designs are in common use:

1. Faceted cone. Cones of this type are machined with an alternating series of raised and relieved
surfaces. During operation the raised surfaces on the revolving cone contact the tube and
generate the flare.
2. Roller cone. Construction is similar to the faceted cone, however, a series of rollers are utilized
for raised surfaces. Flares are generated in the same manner as with faceted cone with the
added advantage of reduced friction at generating points.

Advantages:
1. Precision flares are produced.
2. Readily operated even in narrow places.
3. Covers wide range of sizes
4. Burnishing provisions on tool result in an excellent finished flare surface.
Feed handle

Rolling flare generating cones

Figure 10

Exchangeable tube clamps

Flaring:
To make a flare of the correct size using a flaring block, do the following:
1. Carefully prepare the end of the tube for flaring. The end must be straight and square with the
tube. The burr from the cutting operation must be removed by reaming.
Figure 8a, 8b and 8c shows the steps necessary to prepare a tube for flaring.

2. Flaring tools may be used to make flares are shown in figure 9 and 10. These flaring tools are
suitable for flaring either fractional size (inch) or mm size. Always make sure to use the right
clamp diameter to clamp the tube.

3. Place the flare nut on the tubing with the open end toward the end of the tubing. Insert the tube
in the flaring tool so that it extends above the surface of the flaring block as shown in figure 11.
This allows enough metal to form a full flare. Tighten the clamp so the tube cannot move.

4. If the tube extends above the block more than the amount shown, the flare will be too large in
diameter and the flare nut will not fit over it. If the tube does not extend above the block, the
flare will be too small. It may be squeezed out of the fitting as the flare nut is tightened.
Figure 12 shows appearance of completed flare.

5. To form the flare, first put a drop of refrigerant oil on the flaring tool cone where it will contact
the tubing. Tighten the spinner against the tube end one half turn and back it off
one quarter turn. Advance it three quarters of a turn and again back it off one - quarter turn.
Repeat the forward movement and backing off until the flare is formed.

Attention:
If a tube splits while being flared, it may be due to the age of the tubing or due to hard drawn
tubing. Old tubing becomes brittle after a period of use and cannot be flared satisfactorily.
To remedy this brittle condition, anneal (soften) the tubing by heating it to a cherry red colour and
allowing it to cool slowly. Do not use water to cool the annealed tubing.
Hard drawn tubing cannot be bent or flared unless annealed.

Comment:
Some technicians make the flare using one continuous motion of the flaring tool. That is, they do
not use a back and forth motion. It is believed by some that the constant turning of the tool,
without back turning, may work - harden the tubing. It would then be more likely to split.
Other technicians like to use a flare which is not completely formed. They depend on the tightening
of the flare nut on the flare to complete it.
Do not tighten the spinning tool too much. This would thin the wall of the tubing at the flare and
weaken it.
Figure 14 shows the dimension and angle of a correctly made flare. Additional information is given
on tables 1 and 2.
Always place the flare nut on the tube in the proper position before the flare is made. It cannot, in
most cases be installed on the tube after it has been flared.

Keep in mind :

Before flaring, prepare the tubing carefully.

Always use the recommended tools for flaring.

Handle your tools carefully, proper maintenance and clean it periodically.

Do not use compressed air, oxygen or nitrogen to clean tools and tubes.

Do not forget to place the flare nut on the tube in the required position before flaring.

Use only flare nut with right bore fitting to the tube diameter.

Put a drop of refrigerant oil on the flaring cone or roller cone.

After flaring remove the oil from the flare using a clean, dry cloth or paper.

Never blow into a tube to remove filings or chips, this will form acid inside the system.

Always inspect the completed flare to insure that the sides have no splits or other
imperfections.

Do not try to flare old or hard drawn tubing.

Flaring block
1/3 H

Tubing to be flared should


H

extend slightly above flaring


block to allow enough metal
Figure 11
to form a satisfactory flare.
Amount to allow is about one
Tube to be flared

third the height of the flare

Flaring cone

Figure 12

Correctly made flare.

Correctly made flare

Flare is uneven

Flare too small

Burrs on edge

Flare too large


Figures 13

45

90

Nominal Tubing O.D.

For maximum and minimum flare diameter


A see table 1 and table 2

Figure 14
Single flare
diameter A

Nominal tubing O.D.


inch

1/8
3 / 16
1/4
5 / 16
3/8
7 / 16
1/2
9 / 16
5/8
3/4
7/8
1

Max.

Min.

0.181
0.249
0.325
0.404
0.487
0.561
0.623
0.676
0.748
0.916
1.041
1.157

0.171
0.239
0.315
0.388
0.471
0.545
0.607
0.660
0.732
0.900
1.025
1.141

Table 1

It is not allowed to flare tubes above 7/8 inch O.D !!

Tube diameter
mm O.D.

Flare diameter A
mm 0.2

11

10

13

12

15

15

19

16

19

18

21

Table 2

It is not allowed to flare tubes above 18 mm O.D !!

Required material for exercises:


4 Flare nuts 16 mm
2 Copper seal Bonnets 16 mm
1 Flared union coupling (male flare x male flare)
1 Reducing flared tee fitting 16 x 6 x 16 mm
(male flare x male flare x male flare)
Soft drawn copper tube 16 mm according
above measures.

Refrigerant oil, Common tools, bubble


solution
Nitrogen (N2) incl. pressure reducing valve

Required material for exercises:


2 Flare nuts 6 mm
3 Flare nuts 10 mm
3 Flare nuts 12 mm
1 Copper seal Bonnet 10 mm
1 Copper seal Bonnet 12 mm
1 Flared union coupling 6 mm (male flare x male flare)
1 Flared union coupling 12 mm (male flare x male flare)
1 Reducing flared union coupling 12 / 10 mm
(male flare x male flare x male flare)
1 Reducing flared tee fitting 10 x 6 x 10 mm
(male flare x male flare x male flare)

Soft drawn copper tube 12 / 10 / 6 mm according above


measures.
Refrigerant oil, Common tools, bubble solution
Nitrogen (N2) incl. pressure reducing valve

Flared tube fittings.


To attach a fitting to soft copper tubing, a flared type connection is generally used. There are
many different fitting designs on the market. The accepted standard for refrigeration and air
conditioning is a forged fitting. Some of these have NATIONAL PIPE (NP) threads. Some have
SOCIETY OF AUTOMOTIVE ENGINEERS (SAE) or NATIONAL FINE (NF) threads.
The fittings are usually made of drop forged brass. They are accurately machined to form the
threads, the hexagonal shapes for wrench attachment and the 45 flare for fitting against the
tubing flare. These threaded fittings must be carefully handled to prevent damage to them.
All fitting sizes are based on the tubing size. For example, a 1/4 flare nut attaches 1/4 tubing to
a flared fitting even though it has 7/16 NF internal threads and uses a 3/4 wrench to turn and
tighten it.
Metric size tubing as described in exercise 1 requires metric size fittings. These are very
similar to US conventional size fittings and are used in the same way.
The technician must be careful not to mix US conventional size fittings with metric size
fittings.

Figure 1: Some of the more common flare type fittings used in refrigeration and
air conditioning work.

Figure 2
Flared tee fitting,
male flare - male flare

Figure 3
Flared union coupling,
male flare male flare

Flared half union coupling,


male flare male pipe
Figure 4

Reducing flare tee,


male flare male flare

Figure 5

Reducing flare union,


male flare male flare

Figure 6

Adapter, male flare

Female flare with necessary


copper seal gasket

Figure 7

Figure 8: Flare plug

Figure 9: Short flare nut

Figure 11: Adapter flare brazing

Figure 10: Swivel nut connector

Safety Precautions.
Do not bleed system by loosening fitting nut or fitting plug.
Do not make up and tighten fittings when system is pressurized.
Always use proper thread sealants on tapered pipe threads.
Do not mix fittings and components.
Never turn fitting body. Instead, hold fitting body by spanner or adjustable
wrenches and turn
flare nut by using union nut (split ring) wrenches.

Copper tube bending


Introduction:
It takes practice to become good at bending tubing. To bend smaller sizes of soft drawn copper
tubes as used in domestic appliances, special bending tools are not required. However, a much
better and more satisfactory job is possible using such tools.
Tubing should be bent so that it does not place any strain on the fitting after it is installed. Be very
careful when bending the tubing to keep it round. Do not allow the tubing to kink, flatten or buckle.
The minimum radius for a tubing bend is between 5 and 10 times the diameter of the tubing as
shown in figure 1.
Outer Tube Diameter (O.D.)

Minimum radius = 5 10 x tube diameter

Figure 1: Minimum safe bending radius for bending tubing


Tubes should be bent quite slowly and carefully. It is always recommended to use as large a
radius as possible. This will reduce the amount of flattening. It is also easier to bend a large
radius. Do not try to make the complete bend in one operation, rather bend the tubing gradually.
There is less danger that the sudden stress will break or buckle the tubing.

The four common methods of bending tubing currently in use are the draw, compression, press
and hand spring bending.

Draw bending

One of the most common methods of bending is called draw bending. It is used for extrusions,
solid bars and tubing. Draw bending frequently is preferred because it is the most flexible method
permitting the use of a mandrel in making a progressive series of bends. But, it requires a certain
clamp length beyond the bend to hold the part and to draw it against the pressure die.
For draw bending the work piece is clamped to a rotating die or form. See figures 2 and 2 A.
When the form is rotated, the material is drawn against a pressure die and, if necessary, a
mandrel is placed inside the work piece to resist wall collapse. Frequently, a wiper die will be used
just behind the tangent point of the bend, opposing the pressure die, to avoid wrinkling or buckling
of the material in that area. The pressure die exerts considerable pressure against the work piece
and form die. It may or may not move with the work piece as the bend is made.

Figure 2

Figure 2 A: Commercial draw bender

Compression bending

If there is little or no clamping area available at the end of the bend or between successive bends,
it may be preferable to use the compression bending method. For compression bending, the part
is clamped to the stationary form and a wiping shoe or die swings around the form, forcing the
material to flow and become wrapped around the bending form as the shoe wipes over the
material. See figures 3

and 3 A.

Draw bending and compression bending are both accomplished in a rotary type of bending tool.
That is a tool on which the work piece is bent in a horizontal plane by means of a rotating arm.
The arm is equipped with a clamp die to hold the work piece against the form die for draw
bending, or equipped with a wiping shoe for wrapping the work piece around the form die in
compression bending. Both types of tools or machines rotate the arm around the central axis of
the form die. The form die rotates with arm and clamp for draw bending, but remains stationary for
compression bending.

Figure 3

Figure 3 A : Compression tube


bender

Press bending
A different tool for forming materials is the ram type bending press. This is an adaptation of the
simple press principle with a ram moving to exert pressure against the work piece. Instead of
using a punch and die, however, the ram carries a bending form die and in the place of a die shoe
there are two wing dies butted together at the center. As the ram moves upwardly, the wing dies
pivot to wrap the work piece around the form dies positioned in the center of the bend. See figures
4 A, B, C, D, E. Bending presses are hydraulically operated and are able to produce a number of
different bend angles successively by use of turret mounted stops to regulate the downward
movement of the ram and resulting bend angle.
In effect, the bending press forms the equivalent of two compression bends at once, each being
one half the total angle of the required bend.
While the bending press can bend sharper radii on a given work piece, it also tends to deform
tubing to some extent, reducing the cross sectional area inside the bend. The press bender
makes production bends faster and is commonly used for high speed production of compact air
conditioning units, compound units, water chillers, etc.

Figure 4 A: Ram type bending press

Hand operated press bender

Figure 4 B

Figure 4 D

Figure 4 C

Figure 4 E

Spring bending

A bending spring is suitable for making bends with soft drawn copper tubing where a small bend
radius is not required, and where the appearance of the finished circuitry is not important. It may
be easily carried in a tool kit. These springs are available in a variety of sizes. To operate an
external spring bender, slip the spring over the outside of tubing and position at approximately the
center of the proposed bend. Position hands as shown below on figure 6 and work from the center
outward until bend is completed. An internal spring bender can also be used on some applications
and it works the same way as the external type, except the spring is inserted inside the tubing.

Bending springs tend to bind on the tubing after the bend. They may be easily removed by
twisting the spring. This changes the spring diameter slightly, so the grip on the tubing is released.
If a bend is to be made near the flare and an external spring is to be used, bend the
tubing before making the flare. An internal spring can be used either before or after the flaring
operation.

Tube bending springs may


be fitted either outside or
inside copper tube while
bending tube.
A bending spring reduces
danger of flattening tube
while it is being bent.

Figure 5: Spring bender

Twist to remove spring

Figure 6 A

Figure 6 B

Figure 6 C

Figure 6 D

Figures 6 shows the proper way to


bend tubing with an external
bending spring.

Tube bending hazards

1. Flattening of tubing
A common hazard encountered when bending tubing by hand or with poorly designed
equipment is excessive flattening of tubing at point of bend. Flattening reduces the internal
area of the tube and impedes refrigerant flow. The majority of fluid transmission equipment,
(hydraulics, refrigerants etc.) is designed with tubing of specific sizes to obtain calculated flow
rates. Flattening of the tubing in any part of the system results in a restriction of flow and
subsequent malfunction of the system.
2. Stress points on tubing
Stress points, such as nicks or grooves can be introduced on the tube outside surface by
narrow sharp edged tube clamps (hooks) and rough surfaced forming shoes. These damaged
areas are prone to premature failure when installed in a system.

Wall thickness outer bend


Bending radius

Tube diameter (O.D.)


Wall
thickness
inner bend

When tubing is bent, the


wall thickens on the inside

Figure 7: Stress points

and stretches on the


Tube wall thickness

In addition to outer thinning, there


is a slight O.D. flattening in a bend.

Figure 8: Stress points

outside.

Hook

Zero marks

Handle lever

Centre pin

Forming wheel
Figure 9
1. To place tube in bender, pull out centre pin and remove handle lever of bender. Raise the
hook and place the tube in the space between the handle lever and the forming wheel.
Replace handle lever. ( See figures 9 and 10 )

Figure 10: Tube ready to be bent

2. Drop hook over tube and push in centre pin. Check zero marks on forming wheel, on
tubing and on handle lever.

3.

Proceed to bend desired angle as indicated by calibrations on forming wheel. Bends to any
angle up to 180 can be made with most of the common tube bender.

Figure 11: Bend 45

Figure 13: Bend 180

Figure 12: Bend 90

Figure 14: Remove bent tube

4. To remove the bent tube from bender, pull out centre pin and raise the hook. Tube can then
be readily removed. ( See figure 14 )
Note: Occasionally placing a drop of oil on the forming wheel, centre pin and lever groove will
assure a smoother working tool.

Dimensional bends
Handle lever

Hook

Zero mark

To obtain X dimension, tube should be


placed in bender as illustrated in figures
15 19.

Figure 15: Gear type bender

Figure 16

Bends from hook side

Bends from hook side

X
To obtain X dimension,
tube should be placed in
bender as illustrated in
figures 15 19.

Figure 17

Figure 18

Figure 19

For bends from lever side :


Z = X 1.5 x O.D.
Z

Figure 20: Bends from lever side

Example:
Tube diameter O.D. = 12 mm
Required dimension X = 15 cm
Z = X 1.5 x O.D.
Z = 15 cm 1.8 cm
Z = 13.2 cm

Practical Exercises:

Required tools and material:


Soft drawn copper tube on coils, O.D. 6, 10, 12, 16 mm
Bending spring 10, 12 mm
Bending tool, 10, 12, 16 mm
Tube cutter
Inner- outer reamer
Pocket slide calliper
Folding ruler
Flat steel square 90
Mitre square 135
Refrigerant oil
Marker

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