Professional Documents
Culture Documents
ISSN 2042-8529
Contents
2 Chairmans letter
3 An 18th-century jewellery
business
Reviews:
8 Crowning Glory
9 Imperial Ottoman Jewellery
10 Jewels from Imperial
St Petersburg
Muriel Wilson
Jane Perry
Natasha Awais-Dean
Sophia Tobin
Deborah Roberts
Deborah Roberts
Doug Barned
Published by
The Society of Jewellery Historians
Scientific Research, The British
Museum, London WC1B 3DG
ISSN 2042-8529
www.societyofjewelleryhistorians.ac.uk
The Society of Jewellery Historians is a Registered
Charity: No. 282160, and a company limited by
guarantee, No. 7032947, registered in England.
Cover: Ottoman lady, 1545-1659. Dader Banu.
Levni, album, TSM H 2164 (detail). See p.9.
Printed in the UK by Spectrum Printing Services,
www.spectrumprinting.co.uk
Chairmans letter
Some while ago your committee was advised that it would be sensible if the Society
became incorporated. This would make the Society a legal entity and would provide
protection for both the trustees and other members. The financial liability of members
would be limited to 1. Accordingly a Company Limited by Guarantee was set up with
the name of the Society, and relevant extraordinary general meetings were held, at
which the members agreed that the Company should apply for registration as a charity,
and that the membership and activities should be transferred to the new charity. The
committee was increasingly aware that a subscription increase would soon be required,
and postponed registering the new charity until that was agreed, so as to ease the
paperwork involved in changing members standing orders. At the recent AGM in
February members agreed to the proposed subscription rise. The Company now has
Charity Registration, and new standing order forms are enclosed with this issue of JHT.
Members are encouraged to set up revised or new standing orders promptly, as this
is hugely beneficial to the Societys administration. Subscriptions paid this way do,
of course, attract the prompt payment discount. Members who are eligible are also
strongly urged to Gift Aid their payments.
In line with the Societys policy of greater co-operation with similar societies, also
enclosed is a letter from the President of the Society for Court Studies together with
a membership form. This excellent society, of which your chairman has long been an
enthusiastic member, deals with a wide range of subjects pertaining to royal courts,
including regalia. Many of its events are held in relevant historic buildings, giving
attendees privileged access to those places. More details may be found on the societys
web-site: courtstudies.org. There is also a link on our own website.
Nigel Israel
Editorial
Once again the editorial group has worked hard to bring you another stimulating issue of
JHT. Natasha Awais-Dean, our new Features Editor, offers subjects relating to the trading
of jewellery and its constituents: David Humphrey writes about sources of supply and the
transport of precious materials in the late medieval period, and Lynne Bartlett, the Societys
Hon. Treasurer, expands on the paper on the Webb familys trading history in the 18th Century
that she delivered for the SJH Diamond Day symposium at Goldsmiths Hall last June.
As you will see in our Recent Publications section, there are floods of high quality books
appearing on all aspects of jewellery history. A book on European Traditional Jewellery, by
our indispensable Copy Editor Jane Perry, will be published in June, and will be available
to members at a 20% discount (see back cover). We hope to publish a review after the
book appears. In the meantime she describes a Turkish book on Ottoman jewellery for
Reviews Editor Sophia Tobin. We also have a new survey of the history of the Faberg
oeuvre and its clients, as well as a study of some of the jewels. It is always heartening to
visit an exhibition of historical jewellery and metalwork, and Sarah Nichols has reviewed
Crowning Glory at Fairfax House in York for us.
We were greatly saddened by the deaths of Gertrud Seidmann and Peter Hinks, both
revered as outstanding in their fields, and their colleagues have provided fitting obituaries.
Each of the editorial group valiantly fits the work into a busy and demanding life, and
although it is divided between us there is always room for volunteers of all kinds. Everyone
hates chasing advertising for a periodical, but the revenue helps to offset production costs,
besides its value to advertisers, and a persuasive individual could do wonders. We run two
book reviews in each issue, covering often highly specialised new publications. If you feel
that your own interests are under-represented, why not volunteer a book review yourself?
We welcome offers from members who feel that their own expertise or special interests
would fit a recently published title, and you usually get to keep the book! Similarly there
is a continuing need for reviewers of exhibitions of historical jewellery, and updates on
museum collections, particularly those that have been recently renovated, or are outside
the UK. So watch out for opportunities and please step forward.
Where better for a young man to seek his fortune in the early part
of the 18th century than London the largest, fastest growing, and
most dynamic city in Europe? Peter Webb (d.1775), the youngest
son of Arthur Webb of Kilkenny, is first mentioned in a marriage
agreement dated 20 March 1717. The wealthy London jeweller David
Le Court, his future father-in-law, was keen to safeguard his daughter
Catherine (d.1776) and the family wealth. Le Court is listed as being
in Throgmorton Street between 1718 and 1726, and Peter Webb
traded at 28 Throgmorton Street from 1724 to 1772. It is possible
that a few years after his marriage Peter Webb took over his fatherin-laws business.
The network of suppliers used by the Webbs illustrates the range of
craftsmen operating in London during the 18th century. They bought
and sold a range of diamonds and pearls and sent work out to other
jewellers (mostly making mounts for diamonds and other gemstones),
silversmiths, diamond-cutters, lapidaries, engravers (both in stone and
Fig 2. Draft trade card for Edward Holmes (British Museum, Prints &
Drawings, Heal,67.217). Image courtesy of the British Museum.
Fig 5.
-s-d
Limited
supplies
of
materials
new to the market were obtainable
within Europe, for example: gold
from locations in Bohemia and the
Carpathian mountains; silver from
Spain and Freiburg in Germany; garnets
from Eastern Europe; jet and amber
from the English and Baltic coasts; and
sapphires from the Puy region of France.
These, and other European locations,
continued to supply a percentage of the
materials required by the trade but they
could not supply all of its demands.
The amount of time taken to transport precious materials from their sources
of origin to the towns and cities of northern Europe was an enduring
issue for both clients and goldsmiths. Predicting how long it would take
to transport goods, by small-scale traders, from the far side of Asia to the
shores of the Mediterranean was a difficult, if not impossible task for traders
and end purchasers. Too many factors could impact on delivery time: from
weather to war, but approximate timings came to be used as part of the
trading process. Examples of such timings for the period in question are:
Toulouse to Paris (water or road, spring and summer)
Toulouse to Paris (winter)
Genoa to Marseilles (sea, fine weather)
3 weeks
2 months
7 days
For less predictable routes and conditions traders often worked on the basis
of expected distances that could be achieved by a given means of transport
in a given period often one day - in good conditions:
By road (horse, cart, waggon)
By sea
20-35 miles
60-100 miles
Timings for the large caravans across both northern Africa and from Asia
were more easily predictable than for small-scale operations, as they tended
to depart at specific times of the year which allowed for the late spring
moulting season of the camel.
Fig 3. Aspects of transport logistics.
350
250
150
100
100
Classified
Per single col. centimetre (minimum 2 scc) 2.50
Per line (minimum 5 lines)
1
Per word (minimum 20 words)
25p
Box number
1
Reviews
Crowning Glory
Fairfax House, York, until 23 June 2013
Reviewed by Sarah Nichols
In April 1763, the 9th Viscount Fairfax (1700-1772) hosted an
elegant Entertainment and Ball to celebrate his birthday and
the completion of major renovations to his newly acquired York
townhouse. No doubt the 200+ guests were adorned in their
finest jewels. To mark this 250th anniversary, Hannah Phillip,
the Director of Fairfax House, has curated Crowning Glory, an
exhibition focusing on headwear, particularly coronets and tiaras,
but with other interesting contextual jewellery and dress. The
objects in the exhibition are drawn primarily from Yorkshire
collections and many have never been on public display before.
The exhibition includes eight coronets from all ranks of the
peerage Baron, Viscount, Earl, Marquis and Duke and so
provides a wonderful opportunity to compare and contrast the
different arrangements of strawberry leaves and/or balls, known
as pearls, in each design. A coronet is worn on just one occasion,
the coronation of a monarch, and in the last 300 years there
have been only ten such opportunities to wear a coronet and
coronation robes. The exhibition includes the coronets and robes,
made of dark crimson silk velvet and miniver (unspotted white fur
from a stoat), of Baron and Baroness Bellew. There is no evidence
that Lord Fairfax owned a coronet or attended the coronation
of George II in 1761 but where possible the exhibition tries to
Reviews
Imperial Ottoman
Jewellery. Reading
history through
jewellery.
Gl repolu.
BKG Publications,
2012, 150 TL.
360 pages,
hardback,
31.5 x 24 cm.
ISBN: 9786055488147
convoy that the Austrian ambassador had brought none. It details how the
ladies of the harem managed to buy jewellery, while forbidden to leave the
palace, and gives context to the ubiquitous jewelled timepieces, throne
pendants, and dress ornaments.
This book can be recommended as a fine example of jewellery
history. As the record of a subject which has been largely neglected it is
doubly valuable.
Jane Perry is a visiting scholar at the V&A, studying and cataloguing
the traditional jewellery collections. She is copy editor of Jewellery
History Today.
Reviews
10
Jewels from
Imperial St
Petersburg
Ulla TillanderGodenhielm. Liki
Rossii/Unicorn Press,
2012. 49.99.
296 pages, hardback,
25 x 30 cm.
ISBN 9781906509248
11
12
Traditional Jewellery in
Nineteenth-Century Europe
Jane Perrys book of this title will be published in June by the
V&A, as the latest book in their series dedicated to various
aspects of jewellery. The book provides a lively introduction
to the subject of traditional jewellery, that is the kind which
was worn with traditional costume, throughout Europe. It
is an accompaniment to the traditional jewellery on show
on the mezzanine floor of the William and Judith Bollinger
Jewellery Gallery at the V&A, and includes illustrations of
around 200 pieces of jewellery of all kinds, as well as of
people wearing them.
The V&A are generously offering the book to members of
SJH at 23, a discount of over 20%. If you would like to
take advantage of this offer, please see
back cover of this issue of JHT, or
www.societyofjewelleryhistorians.ac.uk/news
Jane Perry has been a student of traditional jewellery of
all kinds for many years. She is also the manager of the SJH
website, and copy editor for JHT.
Jewels of Blacknesse at
the Jacobean Court
An article on this subject, by SJH member Daniel Packer, was
published in the Journal of the Warburg and Courtauld Insitutes,
LXXV (2012). It concerns a pair of earrings in the form of Moors
heads which were owned by Anne of Denmark, wife of James I.
13
Obituary
Gertrud Seidmann
1919-2013
Gertrud was the leading scholar in
Britain on matters concerning British
neo-classical gem-engravers, but had
been even more versatile. She was born
in Vienna in 1919 and studied English
and Musicology in the University there
until the Anschluss. She came to
Britain and took a degree in French
and German, then a Masters degree
in Musicology at Queens University,
Belfast.
Continuing
teaching
in
London schools and at Southampton
and Oxford she founded the British
Association of Teachers of German,
and was awarded the Goethe medal in
1968 in recognition of her services to
the study of German in Britain. She had
already developed a deep interest in
engraved gems, especially those of the
neo-classical period, taking a particular
interest in the work of artists in Britain,
but her knowledge of gemmology was
wide and freely shared with colleagues
and students. In Oxford she became
an Honorary Research Associate of
the Institute of Archaeology and a
central figure in the study of gems
which had become a major interest in
the university through the resources of
the Beazley Archive. There she played
14
Obituary
15
Saleroom News
Paul Brianon.
Pendant, signed on reverse, undated.
Silver, lapis lazuli, turquoise.
16
17
21 May
The German engraver Lorenz Natter, who spent the years 1739 to 1761 in Britain, was so impressed by its gem
collections that he decided to publish an illustrated account of them. Unable to raise the capital to complete
the project, he left for St Petersburg where he died in 1763 leaving his papers in the Hermitage Library. The
Hermitage and the Beazley Archive in Oxford are now collaborating in a project to publish all 650+ of Natters
drawings, and to try to identify the present whereabouts of the gems he drew. This is proving no easy task since
most of the collections had been dispersed by the end of the 18th century.
David Wood-Heath - Guilloche, the machines, techniques and products.
25 June
Engine turning otherwise known as guilloche, is something for which the speaker has a deep and abiding
passion. Although it is frequently referred to in books on jewellery and related products, the reference is
usually limited to a simple comment such as engine turned, with no further detail or information about
how this frequently very beautiful and intriguing effect is achieved. The various types of machines will
be illustrated along with descriptions of the techniques used for each type. The presentation will focus
on jewellery and related artefacts but will also cover some more unusual uses of the technique, and will
include some comment on its practitioners.
Ros Conway - The marriage of new and traditional technology in the making of a 21st-century Goldsmiths
Company commission.
24 September
At a time when high street mass-produced, and even small, batch-produced, precious jewellery and
smallware is created by rapid prototyping methods generated by computer-drawn designs we cannot deny
the usefulness of these new programmes and methods, even in the developing of pieces that are highly
hand-wrought using traditional skills. Ros Conway will start by giving some background on her enamelled
jewellery and silversmithing work. She will then talk about the commissioning and making of a major
piece for the Goldsmiths Company, and the role played in its design by new technology combined with
the ancient and intensive skills of enamelling.
Later dates in 2013: 22 October and 26 November. 2014: 28 January, 25 February, 25 March, 13 May, 24 June, 23
September and 25 November.
Lectures are held at the Society of Antiquaries of London, Burlington House, Piccadilly, and start at 6.00 pm.
Members and guests only.
For last minute changes or cancellations, check on the website at www.societyofjewelleryhistorians.ac.uk/news
18
Listings
Readers wishing to attend any of the shows, fairs or sales listed are strongly advised to contact the organisers
to confirm the details, in case of any alterations or cancellations which may occur after this issue goes to print.
UK SHOWS, FAIRS AND EVENTS
Olympia International Fine Art
& Antiques Fair 2013
6-16 June 2013
Olympia Exhibition Centre, London
Tel: (+44) 0871 620 7062
Web: www.olympia-art-antiques.com
Email: info@clarionevents.com
Art Antiques
12-19 June 2013
Albert Memorial West Lawn,
Kensington Gardens, London
Tel: (+44) 020 7389 6555
Web: www.haughton.com
Email: info@haughton.com
Masterpiece
26 June 3 July 2013
South Grounds,
The Royal Hospital Chelsea, London
Tel: (+44) 020 7499 7470
Web: www.masterpiecefair.com
Email: contact@masterpiecefair.com
Antiques for Everyone - Summer
25-28 July 2013
NEC Birmingham, B40 1NT
Tel: (+44) 0121 767 2947
Web: www.antiquesforeveryone.co.uk
Email: antiques@clarionevents.com
International Jewellery London
1-4 September 2013
Earls Court, London
Tel: (+44) 020 8271 2144
Web: www.jewellerylondon.com
Email: ijl.helpline@reedexpo.co.uk
The LAPADA Art & Antiques Fair
25-29 September 2013
Berkeley Square, London
Tel: (+44) 020 7823 3511
Web: www.lapadalondon.com
Email: lapada@lapada.org
INTERNATIONAL FAIRS
8th Asia International Arts & Antiques Fair
24-26 May 2013
Grand Rotunda 2,
3/F Kowloonbay International Trade &
Exhibition Centre
1 Trademart Drive, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2341 0379
Web: www.aiaa.com.hk
Email: info@paper-com.com.hk
FORTHCOMING SALES
UK EXHIBITIONS
UK SALES
Bonhams Jewellery
14 May 2013, time tbd, Oxford
15 May 2013, time tbd, Knightsbridge
5 June 2013, time tbd, Edinburgh,
Jewellery & Silver
11 June 2013, time tbd, Oxford
12 June 2013, time tbd, Edinburgh
10 July 2013, time tbd, Knightsbridge
16 July 2013, time tbd, Oxford
7 August 2013, time tbd, Knightsbridge
3 September 2013, time tbd, Edinburgh
11 September 2013, time tbd, Knightsbridge
17 September 2013, time tbd, Oxford
18 September, time tbd, New Bond
Street, Fine Jewellery
Christies Jewellery
22 May 2013, 10.30 am, South
Kensington
5 June 2013, 10.30 am, King Street
19 June 2013, 11.00 am, South Kensington
Sworders Fine Art Auctioneers
25 June 2013, 10.00 am, Stansted
Mountfitchet, Silver & Jewellery
Dreweatts 1759
20 June 2013, 10.00 am, Bristol,
Jewellery, Silver & Watches
10 July 2013, 10.00 am, London, Fine
Jewellery, Silver & Watches
17 July 2013, 10.00 am, Godalming,
Jewellery, Silver & Watches
15 August 2013, 10.00 am, Bristol,
Jewellery, Silver & Watches
INTERNATIONAL SALES
Bonhams Jewellery
25 May 2013, time tbd, Hong Kong, Fine
Jewellery & Jadeite
17 July 2013, time tbd, Melbourne, Fine
Jewellery
Christies Jewelry
15 May 2013, 2.00 pm & 7.00 pm,
Geneva, Magnificent Jewels
29 May 2013, 3.00 pm, Paris
11 June 2013, 10.00 am & 2.00 pm,
New York Rockefeller Center
Sothebys
14 May 2013, 10.00 am, Geneva,
Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels
24 September 2013, 10.00 am, New York
Important Jewels
www.societyofjewelleryhistorians.ac.uk
19
TRADITIONAL JEWELLERY
IN NINETEENTH CENTURY EUROPE
by Jane Perry
EXCLUSIVE
READER OFFER To order a copy at the special
price of 23.00 (plus free UK
postage and packing), please
phone LBS Mail Orders on
01903 828 503 and quote the
OFFER CODE JHT2013
Publication date: June 2013
30.00 RRP
Offer price: 23.00
ISBN 9781851777297
Hardback
190 col0ur illustrations
245 x 210 mm 144 pp