Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Moscow
Winter 2016 - 2017
-60
. 45
Winter fun
inyourpocket.com
N46
Concerts, exhibitions
and pancakes
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E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
In the News
Public transport
City Basics
Language
Features
Ded moroz is coming to town 18
Where to eat
Asian and Indian
Maslenitsa and bliny
22
22
26
46
Nightlife
28
47
What to see
30
, ,
The Kremlin
30
Churches 32
Museums 33
Gogol House
34
Where to stay
Interview with concierge
Shopping
Russian souvenirs
35
36
37
37
38
39
Travel
40
St. Petersburg
40
Russian photo expeditions
42
Solovki 43
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
48
53
55
57
57
59
59
60
61
62
66
www.facebook.com/MoscowYourPocket
Winter 2016 - 2017
Foreword
You have made the right choice by coming to Moscow at
this time of year because now you can experience the real
Russianwinter. It will be cold and white. In fact, it already
is. While I am writing this foreword it is -10 degrees Centigrade outside and super snowy, I havent seen anything
like that in mid-November for a long time! So be ready, you
never know what December and January will have in store.
Of course winter in Russia is not winter without its holiday
season. New Year, Russian Christmas, Pancake week (our favorite!) and more! Our special feature of this issue is dedicated to the heroes of Russian holiday folklore - Ded Moroz and
Snegurochka. These two bring the spirit of New Year to every
place and every party - go to pages 18-20 to learn more.
If you want to soak up some culture, check pages 10-17.
Moscow is the cultural center of the country so theres virtually a never-ending list exhibitions, concerts and festivals
to check out.
Moscow is growing not only culturally but also gastronomically. New restaurants and bars open almost daily and this
trend is not about to stop any time soon. Check out pages
22-27 to find out more.
If you want to make your stay even more unforgettable,
check out our travel feature on pages 42-43, where you
can read an interview with Daniel Kordan, the man taking
foreigners on photographic journeys around Russia. Maybe
he will inspire you to visit the Russian Far East or the worlds
deepest lake - Lake Baikal. Photos simply do not do these
regions justice! If you are not ready to go so far but still want
to see something outside Moscow, read about the islands
of Solovki (page 44), the place everybody knows about but
so few actually venture out to. This magical and mysterious
place is definitely a must.
We hope you have enough time to do everything you have
planned. But let us give you a bit of advice: you will never
be able to see everything you want. Moscow is too big for
that and you should come many more times - so please do,
were always happy to see you here! Just dont forget to relax. Sit down, buy yourself a cup of hot coffee and enjoy the
magical and unbelievable city of Moscow. Happy holidays!
Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket
77 - 32970
29.08.2008.
,
().
, 197110, -,
. , .22,
., .7. 40034.
30 000 .
46, 01.12.2016.
About IYP
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In the News
3D Tretyakovka
The Tretyakov Gallery is set to get even cooler and more artsy! Towards the beginning of 2017, the gallery plans to open
the doors to the first museum movie theater. The three halls
will screen digital and 3D movies of all possible genres - from
animations to documentaries. The main focus will be on art
films and classic cinema - both Russian and international.
Do not expect to see any Hollywood blockbusters here. And
the best part: the price will likely not exceed 120Rbl! www.
tretyakovgallery.ru
Moscow-Berlin
in one sleep
Russian Railways have announced their direct service
between Moscow and Berlin. As of December 17, there
will be two trains a week to the German capital. The
high speed train Strizh will depart Kursky Railway
Station at 13:05 on Saturdays and on Sundays with
an expected arrival time of 07:19 the following day.
The Berlin-Moscow part of the route begins at 18:50
on Sundays and Mondays and reaches its final destination at 17:25 on the following day. Tickets can cost
anywhere between 8,737Rbl and 59,790Rbl depending
on the class.
Tourist Information
Centers
City Expert Moscow
(TIC)
Tourist information centers City
Expert Moscow welcome guests
and citizens of Moscow. One
kiosk is located in the central department store GUM on the second line of the ground
floor (open 10:00 - 22:00). The other TIC City Expert
Moscow is on the Triumphalnaya Square next to the
monument of Vladimir Mayakovsky (open 10:00 - 19:00).
Everyone can get advice in Russian, English and Spanish
languages. The consultants provide all the necessary information on the tours and sights and help to find ones
way around the city. In addition, there you can get our
guide Moscow In Your Pocket for free!QB1, Triumfalnaya pl., MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 79 96,
city-sightseeing.ru/info. Open 10:00 - 19:00. A
Arriving by plane
Moscows three main airports are Sheremetyevo located
in the north west, Domodedovo in the south east and
Vnukovo in the south west.
Aeroexpress Trains
The Aeroexpress train is by the
far the fastest and most reliable
way to get in to the city centre,
dropping passengers off at the
metro circle line. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed
between 00:30 and 05:00) will
be at the mercy of taxi drivers
so it is advisable to pre-book
a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the
touts. Qtel. (+7) 800 700 33 77, www.aeroexpress.ru.
6 Moscow In Your Pocket
Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and whether
you are coming from east or west, north or south, Moscows many train stations are always bustling with travelers
about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early
in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya
ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually
hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the
metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl. 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each
train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very
easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple
rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 54Rbl. On the more
modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages, however, it
is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to hear in rush
hour, so if you arent familiar with Moscows many stations, it
is best to count the number of stops you need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the
metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro.
Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the
routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 60Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1,000Rbl note!
Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
youll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Gett, tel. (+7) 499 999 08 39, gett.com/ru
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
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City Basics
Be on guard!
Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking
loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if
you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or
Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.
Moscow Tourist Helpline (English)
(+7) 800 220 00 02.
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
Winters in Russia are notorious theyve defeated
both the armies of Hitler and Napoleon. In December the temperatures begin to drop, but there can still
be wet days, whereas January is usually the coldest
month and the city will be blanketed in snow. Time
to wrap up warm!
Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts
report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
Youll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
Post
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russias post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Language
useful phrases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
-
-?
()
?
...?
?
!
/
?
?
Language Center
Ruslingua Language Center
Ruslingua linguistic center has been offering courses in European languages as well as Russian since
2005. The courses are totally flexible: you can attend group courses (2-4 people per group) at the
school's central location or have a teacher come to
you at a convenient time - wherever is best for you.
Corporate training, exam preparation, conversation
classes as well as an intensive one-day "talking to
your driver" crash course are all on offer. Ruslingua's
homely atmosphere and individual approach lead to
the best results!QD2, Sretensky bul. 2, office 410,
MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 625 10 09, www.
ruslingua.com. Office open from Mon - Fri 11:00 19:00. Lessons everyday. NW
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russian names
Darya
This name is also borrowed from Greek, and is the female form of the name Darius. This was in fact taken
from the ancient Persian Darayahavush which means
winner, owner of wealth. Ironically, by the 18th century it was a very popular name amongst the peasantry in Russia, which many attribute rising popularity to
the private performance of a play called Chrysanthus
and Darya, written by the sister of Peter the Great.
Winter 2016 - 2017
concerts
02.12 20:00 The Baseballs
On December 8 the Diplomatic Hall of the State Kremlin Palace will host a show
by Brandon Stone, a composer, arranger, sound producer and singer. Brandon
considers himself a jazz,
soul and pop singer thus his
music represents a unique
mix of styles. An incredible
voice combined with romantic charm helped him gain
popularity in many countries in Europe, the CIS as well as
the USA. Brandon sings his songs in Russian, English, German, Spanish, French, Hebrew and Georgian. Do not miss
the chance to spend your evening in the company of the
charismatic Brandon: he will sing for you both the songs
he wrote for himself and those written for many Russian
singers in the cozy Diplomatic Hall.QC3, State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, Tickets 1,500 - 3,000Rbl.,
www.brandonstone.ru.
11
Fans of violin music with a fresh modern twist will be happy to learn that German pop and crossover violinist David
Garrett is on his way to Moscow. Save the date for December 12 to see the Paganini of the 21st century perform rock
hits as well as classical pieces and to be blown away by
the powerful synthesis of rock and classic elements. The
rock violinist feels equally passionate about Kurt Cobains
grunge style as he does about Mozarts sonatas and performs Bach with the same ease as AC/DCs hits.QC3,
State Kremlin Palace (SKP), Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, Tickets 6,000
- 35,000Rbl., www.david-garrett.com.
Formed in 2013 in Stockport, Greater Manchester, The Blossoms are an indie pop outfit that made it to the BBCs Sound
Of new music list for 2016. Although the English chaps released their debut album only in August, 2016, they have
already made a loud splash and the release was met with
12 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Alice? Who the heck is Alice? Well, very soon you can find
out! The band behind this timeless classic is coming back
to Moscow on February 26. For those who are not familiar
with them, Smokie are an English rock band from Bradford, Yorkshire responsible for hits like If You Think You
Know How to Love Me, Dont Play Your Rock n Roll to
Me, Lay Back in the Arms of Someone and, of course,
their most popular single Living Next Door to Alice,
which peaked at No. 5 on the UK Singles Chart and, in
March 1977, reached No. 25 on the Billboard Hot 100. Dont
miss getting a healthy dose of rock n roll and make sure to
secure your tickets to this show soon!QCrocus City Hall,
MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55,
Tickets 2,000 - 12,000Rbl., www.smokie.co.uk.
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Exhibitions
14.12 - 21.03 Elegant Century
13
Stay up-to-date
facebook.com/
MoscowInYourPocket
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15
Theatres
Musical Folklore Theatre
Russian Song
Since 2000, the Moscow
National Musical Folklore
Theatre Russian Song has
been delivering traditional
Russian and ethnic culture
to the public under the
careful guidance of Nadezhda Babkina, Peoples
Artist of Russia. This is the
only theater in Moscow
that preserves the richness of Russias folk culture and shares it
with viewers. For example, this season Muscovites and guests
of the capital can enjoy a special play called Russia, A Word
About You (December 9), that is a celebration and a summary
of the last 40 years of the Russian Song Theater. Babiy Bunt
(December 11, 12 and February 26) is another fun number on
show this season and is based on humorous yet poetic portrayals of village life by Nobel Prize author Mikhail Sholokhov.
Another one not to be missed is the folk musical Christmas
Eve (December 26-29), based on the first story in the second
volume of the collection Evenings on a Farm Near Dikanka
by Nikolai Gogol. QOlimpisky pr. 14, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7)
926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at the
theater, online or by phone.
Electrotheatre Stanislavsky
Electrotheatre is homage
to one of the first pre-revolutionary Russian movie
theatres Electrotheatre Ars
that occupied the same
building in 1915. The best
traditions of a fashionable
movie theatre, a dramatic
opera studio and the influence of the famous Russian
director Konstantin Stanislavsky all these factors intertwine
to make this theatre truly unique in the capitals cultural scene.
The theatres current art director Boris Yukhananov is also determined to combine truly avant-garde traditions with classical Russian theatre art. Despite this drive for innovation and
transformation, Electrotheatre Stanislavksy carefully sticks to
the traditions of Russias dramatic theatre. The famous opera
The Drillalians will be showing this winter. It is directed by B.
Yuhananov. The opera is set in a fantastical realm, following the
fate of the long-forgotten ancient civilisation of the Drillalians.
Still living among us today, they fate constantly lives in the balance, and only can a prince save it. The total length of the opera is nights, during which time the music of six composers is
performed. Real enthusiasts will undoubtedly be present at all
five nights - but just the one will give you a taste all the same!
20:00 on January 20, 21, 24, 25, 28, 29 and February 1, 2, 5,
6. With English subtitles supplied. Also find other performances on the website. QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Features
Ded Moroz
is coming to town
New Year is Russias biggest and most grandiose
holiday when dreams and miracles come true!
Who is responsible for making the holiday
season in Russia a truly magical time? Ded Moroz
and his loyal assistant Snegurochka!
18 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Features
Russians love their heroes. Just as with European folklore
traditions, Russian tales feature traditional heroes whose
kindness, bravery and loyalty are rewarded. In Russian
folklore youll also find some dark and complex characters
like Baba Yaga living her house on chicken legs and her
male counterpart, Koshchey the Deathless, an immortal
shapeshifter and habitual wife-stealer.
Fitting all of Russias beloved folklore heroes into one feature is an impossible task. So because its winter, weve
decided to tell you all about the characters that make the
holiday season in our country a truly magical one!
19
Features
Fortune Telling
The period between Russian Orthodox Christmas (January 7th) and the epiphany (January 19th) is believed to
be a particularly auspicious time for telling ones future
and many Russians still like to take carry out various old
Slavic fortune telling rituals. In the olden days it was believed that during this time the souls of dead ancestors
would roam the earth checking on the lives of their children and grandchildren, although nowadays most people see it is a time for enjoying some superstitious fun.
According to tradition, the night of old New Years Day,
13th January, gives the most truthful predictions.
Wax fortune telling
This involves melting wax and pouring it onto water.
It will solidify into a shape. From this shape, you must
judge your future. If it is a house, you will live well this
year. If circles, you will have good fortune. If some kind
of fruit or animal, you will have good health. If it is a
man, then you know what that means!
Paper
Crumple up some paper, put it on a tray and set fire to
it. When it stops burning, lift the tray up to a wall and
shine some light on it. The burnt paper should cast a
shadow onto the wall. Following the wax shape guidelines above, you can predict the coming years luck
from the shape of the shadow.
King of Diamonds
Take a deck of playing cards and remove the King of
Diamonds. Put it under your pillow on a night between
the 6th and the 13th of December and you will dream
of your future husband.
Lucky Dip
Find a golden ring, a loaf of bread and a hook. Lay
them on a table and cover them with a piece of cloth
or napkin. Have someone re-arrange them under the
cloth. Then pick an object without looking. If you
choose the ring, your future husband will be vain. If
you get the bread, your husband will be rich. If you
get the hook, your husband will be poor. Other versions of the lucky dip can involve a babys sock (predicting an imminent pregnancy), a coin (for wealth)
and a key (for a new home).
20 Moscow In Your Pocket
old Traditions
If youre feeling extra cheerful you can join in a Yolka, a little song and dance ritual that the Russian children perform
to make Ded Moroz. For those wanting to ensure something extra special under their Novogodnaya Yolka (New
Year Tree) they can write to Ded Moroz at the post office
in Veliky Ustyug. As in the Western world, parents often invite Ded Moroz and Snegurochka over on New Years Eve
and if their kids were nice and not naughty, the duo will
present them with a gift. Some desperate parents even disguise themselves as the gift-giver but be careful: a fake Ded
Moroz may have his cover blown by wearing slippers while
their cotton-wool beards hang half glued to their chins!
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
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21
Where to eat
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
0 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,500Rbl
1,500 - 2,000Rbl 2,000Rbl plus
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
W Wifi
V Home delivery
L Guarded parking
Where to eat
Novikov Restaurant & Bar
If you are in the mood to splurge on a meal and feel like a
wealthy Russian businessman, then Novikov Restaurant at
the Ritz Carlton is the place for you. The restaurant supposedly mirrors its London and Dubai counterparts- with the
sushi overseen by Japanese chef Sae Yamaoka. The PanAsian-centred menu leaves nothing amiss, even including traditional Russian fare. Complimentary vegetables
are offered, but the portions of main dishes resemble
tapas. Do try the wild strawberry tart. While touring the
Tverskaya, why not try some expensive, exotic eats?QC3,
The Ritz-Carlton, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 797 57 20, www.novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/
novikov-moskva. Open 12:00 till the last guest. .
PASW
Zodiac
Instead of deciding between Chinese and Japanese cuisine, your best bet is trying a fusion of the two and visiting
Zodiac, the pan-Asian playground of Moscows noteworthy chef, Vladimir Mukhin. Zodiac is simple yet playful: the
contemporary design includes a wall of plants, while the
menu ranges from wok noodles and sushi to whimsical
dishes, such as pig ears with green apples and shiso leaves.
The waiters recommendation of crispy eggplants with
tomatoes in duck sauce is a must. Overall, too unique a restaurant to be missed.QA4, Smolenskaya pl. 3, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 230 02 30, www.zodiacmoscow.
ru. . PASW
PhoBo
Now you don't need to get on a plane to Hanoi or Ho Chi
Minh to enjoy authentic Vietnamese street food! Just find
your closest "PhoBo. Hanoi Street Food" location and indulge your senses in the legendary Pho soup (in one of
the few different variations), Thai Tom Yum with seafood
or one of the rice or noodle dishes. Wash it down with
some craft beer, beer from Belgium, the UK, Germany or
the Czech Republic, tea or some traditional Vietnamese
coffee. And the best part: the average bill usually comes to
400Rbl!QC2, Ul. Pushechnaya 7/5 bldg. 2, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 926 163 39 38, www.vietcafe.com. Open
Sun - Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri - Sat 11:00 - 05:00. . AW
VietCafe
It used to be hard to have a decent Vietnamese meal in Moscow but then along came VietCafe. Over the last 10 years
it has become so popular and beloved by Muscovites and
guests from Europe and Asia that it now numbers 12 locations in Moscow alone, becoming Russias first Vietnamese
chain. The menu features traditional North Vietnamese
dishes like Pho, Nem, Banh Cuom and other meat and fish
delicacies. Finish off your meal with traditional Vietnamese
coffee. Also there are the restaurants of this chain at the addresses: Gazetny per. 3 (. Okhotny Ryad), ul. Bol. Yakimanka
31 (M. Polyanka), Chayanova ul. 22/4 (M. Novoskobodskaya)
and Nikoloyamskaya ul. 26 (M. Taganskaya).QE2, Ul. Pokrovka 21 - 23/25, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 409 51 91,
www.vietcafe.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW
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23
Where to eat
Beer Restaurants
British Queen
British Queen wears its monarchist tendencies on its sleeve
- from the Beefeater doorman to the snug of the Queen Victoria bar. But while it looks like a reconstruction of a typical
British boozer, and it boasts the welcome sight of beers from
Cornwall's St. Austell Brewery among the usual suspects on
tap, closer inspection reveals it to be surprisingly Russian.
QC2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
495 226 23 23, britishqueen.ru. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri
10:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEW
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from
the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture,
you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including
the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky Kozel, served at the optimum
temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases
its true flavour.QD4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW
Metropol Hotel
If you already love popping
by the Metropol Hotel, this
news will have you considering moving in for good!
First, in December and January Metropol will be home
to a pop-up dessert bar to
really get you in that sweet,
delicious holiday spirit. So if
youre passing by Teatralnaya Square and your nose picks
up an irresistible whiff of chocolate, ginger and cinnamon
that means youre just steps away from Metropols dessert
bar and really ought to go in and spoil yourself. Secondly,
as is by now tradition, Metropol is throwing a fabulous
New Years Eve celebration, this time around with an Italian Night theme. Songs from Naples, waltzes from Verdis
operas, the awe-inspiring Italian singers Matthew Lee and
Valerio Sgargi, as well as jazz orchestra Dance Land will have
the entertainment part covered. Metropols brand chef Andrey Shmakov is in charge of the extravagant dinner menu,
so rest assured that you will have a delectable start to 2017.
Last but not least, on January 8th Metropol is hosting a
fairytale-like Christmas party with a festive 3-course meal,
dance master-classes from Russias best teachers of historic dance, orchestra music, a photo session using cameras
from the 1860s and historical attire, educational excursions
around the historic Metropol itself, a DJ spinning away on
gramophones from the beginning of the 20th century and
for the younger guests, highly skilled nannies and fun a program to make sure theyre not bored for even one second.
QC-2, Hotel Metropol, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 480 03 92, www.metropol-moscow.ru.
24 Moscow In Your Pocket
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy
Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer
sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of
other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also
at Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka),
Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD5, Ozerkovskaya
nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.
pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PASW
Caucasian
Dzhon Dzholi
The reason you really come here is to eat though, and for
anyone new to Georgian food this is a good and easily accessible introduction. Khachapuri and huge shashlik of course
top the bill, but they also have other well-formed local delights hidden in there too like mchadi (sweetcorn fritters) and
chicken chkmeruli which should excite the taste buds. Their
huge covered summer terrace, is almost as big as the restaurant itself.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 20, blgd. 1, MPushkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 650 55 67, www.jonjoli.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00,
Fri 11:00 - 05:00, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. . PASW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian dcor, low lighting, and even a
pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscows finest. The menu offers many classic shish kebab dishes,
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD3, Maly Ivanovsky
per. 9, MKitai-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.
noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAVSW
Sakhli
Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes the excellent lobio kakhetinsky, the
irresistible cheese khinkali and the grilled meats. A mix of
cold pkhali featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal.Q1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1,
MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/
en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAESW
Saperavi
The menu does hold good classics like an excellent meaty
take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri, but also adds its own twists on things, as for example
with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They do an excellent
job of explaining the ins and outs of all the exciting dishes on
offer and how best to accompany them.Q1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89
93, www.saperavicafe.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat
11:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW
European
Gratzi
On a rainy autumn day its especially important to have a
place that will teleport you somewhere sunny and warm.
Gratzi restaurant at the Moscow Marriott Tverskaya Street
is this place. A warm and welcoming Mediterranean vibe
is complemented by a menu full of international dishes
as well as local discoveries. The carpaccio is intermingled
with red caviar and salads in the appetizer section, soups
include the famous Russian borsch as well as international
stars like goulash, the pizzas, pastas and risottos will make
you feel like youre perched away on a Tuscan hill and the
hearty club sandwiches, meats, seafood and, of course,
desserts are sure to delight anyone.QB1, Marriott Moscow Tverskaya, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/
hotels/travel/mowtv-moscow-marriott-tverskayahotel/. Open: 06:30 24:00. . PTAW
Premier
The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Renaissance Monarch hotel, serving contemporary European
cuisine with a Pan-Asian twist. So if you are a fan of tom
yam, shiitake mushrooms, fried king prawns but also can
enjoy something classic like the Kamchatka crab salad you
will love this place because they have it all. Dont forget
their famous desserts - we have tried a cucumber souffl
with mojito ice cream and ginger crme brle - it was
delicious!QA1, Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre
Hotel, Leningradsky pr. 31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel.
(+7) 495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.
ru. Open 18:30 - 23:00. . PAW
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25
Where to eat
Maslenitsa and Bliny
The week before Lent
(post in Russian) is
known as Maslenitsa
and is one of the most
popular Russian tradition. Running from
February 20th to the
26th, and known in
other cultures as Mardi
Gras or Carnival, it gives an opportunity to fatten up for
a whole week in preparation for 40 long days and nights
of fasting. Though Maslenitsa has been absorbed into
Ortodox tradition, it has ancient pagan roots and coincides with the period when the ancient Slavs would
celebrate the end of winter and the arrival of spring
(regardless of the fact that it is probably still snowing),
hence many pagan activities; such as the burning of
a scarecrow representing winter, are key elements of
Maslenitsa. You will find mounds of bliny on offer in
the citys many restaurants and cafs throughout this
week. Bliny pancakes, an indispensable part of Russias culinary tradition and come stuffed with sweet
or savoury fillings limited only by ones imagination.
Typical savoury favourites: ham, caviar, cheese, mushrooms, sour cream, pate or boiled eggs and cabbage.
On the sweeter side you can have it with jam or varenye
(chunky, sweet fruit preserve), honey, tvorog (sweet
Russian version of cottage cheese) or condensed milk.
Flotilla Radisson restaurant
One of the easiest and most appetizing ways to get to
know Moscow is to take a dinner cruise with Flotilla Radisson Royal. Whatever the weather, this fleet of comfortable vessels offers an attractive menu with a slight Italian
accent as it plies a route along the Moskva River, taking
in a series of key city sights. Having invited many guests
to Moscow to join us on the route, it's regularly got the
thumbs-up, and with winter fast approaching it's already
time to start thinking about breaking the ice - literally and
figuratively - over a tasty risotto on the water.QA3, Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow, Taras Shevchenko nab.,
Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55,
www.radisson-cruise.ru. . PTAW
International
Carlson
Carlson is a rooftop restaurant with a great lookout onto
Red Square. This place doesn't only provide a feast for the
eyes, however; a menu will satisfy the stomach as well.
Conveniently located close to the Tretyakov Gallery and
the Novokuznetskaya station. If you're planning a weekend
visit, make sure to reserve a table in advance.QD4, Ovchinnikovskaya nab. 20, bldg.1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
985 751 19 19, www.ginza.ru/msk/restaurant/karlson.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAESW
26 Moscow In Your Pocket
Deti Raika
The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting
to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this
their favourite hangout. Deti Raika or Children of Paradise
is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner's favourite
film. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz
to lounge and even French chansons this place comes
recommended.QB3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTAEW
Grand Alexander
Culinary director Thierry Vergnault has reinvented the city
lunch format: the four menu options change every week and
guests can take their pick of meat, fish or vegetarian dishes.
The menu is very international and you will find delicious European fare alongside Russian classics. Prices are very reasonable, with a 2-course lunch priced at 550Rbl and a 3-course
lunch priced at 650Rlb. Grand Alexander looks forward to
welcoming guests for the new city lunch Mondays to Fridays,
between 12:00 and 15:00.QB1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MTverskaya, Mayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. Open 12:30 - 23:00. . PAW
Townhouse
The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so
a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! An
aprs lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the
bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable
arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which
is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD5,
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.mercure.
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. . PTASW
Italian
Balzi Rossi
If you think of where the elite and wealthy of Moscow may
dine, think of Balzi Rossi. The restaurant was conceptualised by Patrick Bochard, whose influence is immediate
upon entering the restaurant where you are greeted by an
entirely French staff. Despite the French atmosphere, the
menu offers Italian and Asian dishes, not to mention an extensive wine selection. QA2, Kudrinskaya pl. 1, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 144 74 14, balzi-rossi.ru/en/. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri 13:00 - 01:00. . PAW
MoMo
Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia in
Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food,
offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza
and pasta, and a selection of French and Italian vintage wines.
Its business class clientele are spread across three main rooms,
the largest of which resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD5, Pyatnitskaya ul.
66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.
momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PASW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Where to eat
Seafood
Steak Houses
Porto Maltese
The popular Porto Maltese chain resprects the traditions
of excellent seafood. The dcor has a strong sea-faring flavor, matching a menu which offers more than 20 different
types of fish and seafood all of which are regularly flown
in direct from the Med. The buzare fish soup is regarded
as classic warmer, while exotic offerings include swordfish
and skate wings as well as all the usual fishy favorites. Also
at Bol. Spasskaya ul. 8 (metro Sukharevskaya), ul. Pravdy 21
(metro Belorusskaya), in Vegas Crocus City shopping mall
(metro Myakinino) and Khodinsky Bulvar 4 (metro Polezhaevskaya).QBusiness center Monarch, Leningradsky pr.
31a, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 85, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PASW
Polo club
The refined and sophisticated Polo Clubs defining dish is its
outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It needs
to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12 hours. If you
cant think that far ahead the Angus, Prime and Kobe steaks
on offer are also outstanding. Make sure you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has been completely
revamped, taking on Asian influences which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authentic (and very spicy!) tom
yam soup and a mouthwatering Asian salmon teriyaki.QC2,
Marriott Royal Aurora, ul. Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 937 10 24, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.
com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. . PASW
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27
Nightlife
The original city that doesnt sleep, Moscow has everything
going on under those bright neon signs. Whether youre
after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face
control policy to strike fear into the hearts of grown adults,
a dingey dive or a comfortable English style pub where you
can hole up til the wee small hours, you wont be disappointed.
live music
Cult Club
At first glance it seems like a small underground place,
but there is in fact a whole other huge caf/restaurant
area hidden round the back which really fills up when a
popular DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and
the air-con works marginally better back there. The music
here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and
you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle
here.QE3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495
917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW
DeFAQto
This third venue in the FAQ chain is like a strange cross
between English pub and American bar, with a stage
that would suit stand-up comedy well. The music is similarly confused, although the food is reliable and the booth
seating in particular is nice for smaller groups.QD2, Ul.
Bol. Lubyanka 30/2, bldg. 1, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7)
495 624 44 97, www.defaqto.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 24h. PAEW
Kitaisky Lyotchik Jao Da
Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club,
attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large
numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you'll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast;
it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit
the spot so don't worry about that hunger craving after a
few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD3, Lubyansky
proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56
11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW
Bars
Cross Keys Pub
After a nice long walk around the historic center of Moscow, visitors can take a break and absorb all the beauty
they have just seen over a nice, cool pint of beer and
hearty pub food in Cross Keys Pub, an exciting new comer
on Moscows food and beer scene! Located in a no less
historic building (in the 19th century it was Major Novosiltsevs estate and then converted into a prestigious
boarding school for the sons of nobility), Cross Keys Pub
has more than 18 types of beer on tap, a food menu comprising no-fuss European and English pub classics and live
music on select days. Its definitely a great place to kick
back and relax with friends after a long day of work or after
catching a play at Lenkom Theater, located just a few steps
away.QB2, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 3, MChekhovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 636 29 55. . PAW
MyBar
This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bars philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some
fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscows
glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection
varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with
some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from
rock and blues bands.QC2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2,
MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su.
Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAE
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscow's hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties
depending on the weekend DJs. When its warm outside
the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is a
lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.QC4, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEW
Hard Rock Cafe
This is the mac-daddy of American style food and fun.
Three levels of rock memorabilia, a bar downstairs and a
central dancefloor on the second floor with a DJ booth
above. Food here is a bit disappointing (this is guacamole?) and their long island iced tea was closer to actual tea
than to any long island tea we remember drinking. They
play rock music, and after 9pm on weekends, there's a
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Nightlife
cover charge. The place is pretty popular so get in early
and eat before you go.Q3, Ul. Arbat 44/1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 43 42, www.hardrockcafe.ru.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. Thu 09:00 until last guest, Fri and
Sat 24h. PAEW
Tiki-Bar
In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow
Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly
from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas
at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want
a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum
as well as an exotic choice of cocktails.QA2, SadovayaKudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87
02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24h, Open 24hrs. . PW
Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscow's longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday /
Sunday R'nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed "face control" makes it a fun
night out for those who don't want to deal with the attitude of Moscow's glamour clubs. Q4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 21:00 - 10:00. PAEW
Propaganda
A cafe club has a chilled out vibe that is popular with
everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or
worse you're never long without a tipple. The food is
reasonably priced portion-wise and the lounge-house
sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in.QD2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky
per. 7, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.
propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 06:00. PENW
Zazhigalka
Uncensored Relaxation! Descending to the basement, we
find ourselves in a dark, intimate room. The black walls,
and the red decorations and lighting complete the scene.
In the centre of the room there is of course a pole, where
enchanting girls show off their skills in exotic dance. There
are also VIP rooms and a private cabin. 18+.QLesnaya ul.
43, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 800 333 88 68, www.msk.
russtriptease.com. Open 20:00 - 06:00. PAW
Cocktail Bars
Dream Bar
The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic,
strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is
close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a
cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of
choice. Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices
are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and
tasty. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the afterwork crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it's
time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621
77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
O2 Lounge
Welcome to the most notoriously glamorous terrace in
Moscow. Just about every visiting celebrity you can think
of has been up at this prohibitively expensive cocktail
lounge and sushi bar. Once the summer kicks in the outside terrace here is guaranteed to be full to brimming with
everyone jostling to get a closer look at the outstanding
view of the Kremlin whilst burning money like there never
was an economic crisis.QC2, The Ritz-Carlton hotel,
Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 225 88
88, www.ritzcarltonmoscow.ru. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
PALEBW
Winter 2016 - 2017
29
What to see
The Kremlin
The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the citys
development outwards over the centuries. In the middle
there is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which houses the political HQ of the planets largest nation. Within the worldfamous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various
architectural styles. While much is out of bounds to tourists,
being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there
are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the
citadel an essential conquest. There are a number of ticket
booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky
Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great
people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave
any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket
office, under the gate.Q-3, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel.
(+7) 495 695 41 46, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Thu.
What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-3, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. Theyll search your pockets to make sure
you dont sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you cant mess with him.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sun. Entrance is free.
St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Russias most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terribles crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan,
a victory which secured Moscows position as the regions
dominant city. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless
icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russias history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards
the west and the east. A visit inside St Basils gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of
the latter.QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
698 33 04, www.saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. From
May 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
State Historical Museum
Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice ages of
the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The State Historical Museum is surely one of Russias finest treasures, with more
than 4.5mln items and about 14mln sheets of documents. The
Museums collection is second to none in the country and offers an assortment of paleontology, science, technology, archeology and history monuments; masterpieces of painting, drawing, sculpture, works of decorative, religion, literature, music,
theater arts, and architecture. The art design of the museum
building was created by architect Vladimir Sherwood and engineer Anatoly Semyonov, and the design of Museums unique
halls by the most famous architects and artists (think Bondarenko, Popov, Aivazovsky, Vasnetsov, Serov, Karolin and Repin).
QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 692 37
31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
Closed Tue. Admission 100 - 350Rbl.
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31
What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
Moscow is home to more than 300 churches. The majority of Russians belong to the Russian Orthodox Church,
although, as a result of the fact that Moscow is a multiethnic city, there are many religious denominations, including the Roman Catholic Church and the Seventh-day
Adventist Church. Up until 1917, there were more than
1000 churches in the city.
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look
like. It is so immense youll be wondering how many blocks
of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the
first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny
beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a
close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built
City Sightseeing
Moscow
in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where
you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they
had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10
people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view
from the collonade. QB-4, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 12 76, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours
in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (prebooking required call (+7) 495 637 12 76).
Danilov Monastery
This classical monastery, named after its founder, Alexander Nevskys son Danil, has been in the news of late with
the return of their original 18 church bells from Harvard in
the US. The Soviets sold them off for scrap but a benevolent American, Charles Crane rescued them. The bells were
recently returned due to the efforts (and cash no doubt)
of Faberge egg rescuer, Viktor Vekselberg. Danilov Monastery was the last monastery to be closed under the Soviets
and the first to be reopened under Gorbachev in 1983.
QDanilovsky Val 22, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 958 11
07, www.msdm.ru. Open 6:00 - 21:00. Admission free.
Donskoy Monastery
The late sixteenth century saw the founding of this wellkept monastery, originally part of Moscows fortifications.
The surrounding brick walls include twelve towers with the
main entrance being decorated by bright frescoes as you
enter. Formerly the headquarters of the Russian Orthodox
Church until 1927, today it is a peaceful abode surrounded
by pleasant parklands and a hub of religious activity very
popular with pilgrims who come to visit the 16th Century
miracle working icon and the holy relics of St. Tikhon. Inside
the monastery grounds are bizarrely, a few tanks in honour
of the Churchs efforts in the Great Patriotic War (WWII), although the real draw of course is the stunning 16th Century
churches. The adjoining cemetery is also a worthy historical site dating back to the 17th Century.QDonskaya pl. 1,
MShabolovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 952 02 63, www.donskoi.
org. Open 07:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Novodevichy Monastery
On the grounds surrounded
by the Kremlinesque walls,
which were built to act as a
fortress, are four cathedrals
including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky
Cathedral which dates back
to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from
the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful
cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look
at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here.
QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499
246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 100 - 300Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
What to see
Museums
river cruises
AZ Museum
A museum dedicated to
the work of the Soviet-era,
non-conformist painter Anatoly Zverev, AZ Museum was
opened last year but is already a must for anyone with
an interest in contemporary
art. The artist is considered
the founder of the Russian
impressionism of the 1960s, but his style of painting is very
much his own. AZ Museum is the perfect place to get acquainted with his art since it holds the largest collection of
Zverevs paintings in the world with over 1,500 of his works
and 500 works of those he affiliated himself with (Plavinsky,
Nemukhin, Rabin and many others). Q B-2, 2-ya Tverskaya
Yamskaya ul. 20-22 bldg.2, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 730 55 26, www.museum-az.com. Open 12:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 200 - 400Rbl.
Museum of Russian Icon
One of the best icon collections in the city. The museum holds over 4500 pieces
of art, including rare antique
and late Roman samples and
icons belonging to Russias
last Tsar. The iconography on
display includes works from
numerous epochs, regions
and painting schools and in the restoration workshop at the
weekend you can see expert restorers and artists applying
their skills.QB2, Goncharnaya ul. 3/1, MTaganskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 221 52 83, www.russikona.ru/en. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission free.
Skryabin Museum
This tiny but well-preserved
museum is a must-see for
amateurs of the eccentric
composer Alexander Scryabin (1872-1915). Most of
the original furnishings have
been retained and each
seems to have a story to tell.
By far the most interesting of
these is an unusual device made by the man himself. As a
synaesthete, Scryabin associated different musical tonalities
with different colours. This led him to construct some unusual contraptions which allowed him to compose pieces
for piano and coloured lights, one of which can be seen in
the museum. This flat is where he spent the last three years
of his life.QB3, Bol. Nikolopeskovsky per. 11, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 19 01, www.anscriabin.ru. Open
11:00 - 19:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last
Fri of the month. Admission 200Rbl. Free entrance third
Sun of month.
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33
What to see
Gogol House
This house has a very rich
history dating back to the
early 17th century and had
belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials,
army generals and even
the members of the Tolstoy
family. However, the most
famous resident to have
ever inhabited this manor
was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the
most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian
literary realism and author of such classics as The Nose,
Viy, The Overcoat, The Government Inspector and, of
course, Dead Souls. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent
the last four years of his life here, this is the place where
the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. It
was here that he burnt the manuscripts of the poem, and
in this very house, on February 21st, 1852 that the writer
died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that
keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a
research library of over 250,000 volumes, an exhibition hall
and a memorial museum.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 58 81, www.domgogolya.
ru. Open Tue, Wed, Fri 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed last Tue of the month.
Admission 60 - 150Rbl.
State Central Museum of Contemporary
History of Russia
Start early in the day with
this one. Theres a whole
century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen
and absorbed. Housed in a
1780s mansion and former
premises of the Moscow
English Club, this grand
dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now
that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering
all aspects of Russias recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Dont linger too much in the Revolutionary phase
or youll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts,
and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated
to Russias answer to the Beatles.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 21,
MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 54 58, www.sovrhistory.
ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00. Closed Mon.
Admission 100 - 250Rbl. Children till 16 years old free.
Where to stay
Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a
month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which
enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a
selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels
to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find
out where these hotels are located and what market
they cater for.
5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
Lotte Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms
(Room prices start at 15,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel
QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 937 00 00, www.marriott.com/mowgr. 386 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,000Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Royal Aurora
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495
937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. 231
rooms (Room prices start at 9,500Rbl).
Metropol
QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms
(Room prices start at 9,440Rbl).
Radisson Royal Hotel Moscow
QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.ukraina-hotel.ru.
497 rooms (38 apartments, Room prices start at
19,000Rbl).
Sheraton Palace
QA-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 19, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 931 97 00, sheratonpalace.ru. 212 rooms
(Room prices start at 5,500Rbl).
The Ritz-Carlton
QC-2, Tverskaya ul. 3, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495
225 88 88, www.ritzcarlton.com. 334 rooms (Room
prices start at 15,000Rbl).
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4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. (Room prices start at
5,100Rbl.)
Adagio Moscow Kievskaya
QA-4, Kievskaya ul. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660
53 53, www.accorhotels.com. (Room prices start at
5500Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl).
Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City
Center Hotel
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms
(Room prices start at 4,000Rbl).
Holiday Inn Suschevsky
QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82
82, www.holidayinn.com. (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl).
Marriott Moscow Tverskaya
QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriott.com/mowtv.
162 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices
start at 4,800Rbl).
Winter 2016 - 2017
35
Where to stay
concierge interview
Interview with Inna Belous,
concierge at the St.Regis
Moscow Nikolskaya Hotel.
Please tell us something
about yourself and your
career. I have been a concierge for nearly twelve
years and in 2012 I joined
Les Clefs d`Or Russia. I used to live and work in Crimea
before moving to Moscow in 2015.
What would you recommend to see in Moscow during the holiday season? What will be interesting to do
in winter? Each year everybody looks forward to the New
Years celebrations, expecting some kind of miracle. Moscow
is like a fairytale during the winter holidays and is filled with
the festive atmosphere of New Years fairs. Many ice skating
rinks are open around the city. The nicest ones are in the
citys parks and in my opinion, the best one is at VDNH. After all, its the largest skating rink in the world at over 20,000
square meters! Another fantastic New Years Eve events is
always The Nutcracker ballet in the Bolshoi Theatre.
Are there any hidden treasures in Moscow youd
recommend? Few people know that there is an old and
wonderful national park in Moscow and it is called Losiny
Ostrov (Moose Island). It is beautiful at any time of year but
is especially magical in the winter. Not only because you
can wander around enjoying the peaceful surroundings,
but also because you might encounter wandering elks
near you! Theres an interesting museum on site and one
can go cross-country skiing there or in the nearby Sokolniki Park as well. A little museum called Lights of Moscow
on Armyansky pereulok 3/5 shows how Moscow became
brighter century after century. The museums yard boasts a
little exhibition of street lanterns from different eras. After
spending a day admiring all the splendid decorations and
sights it might be a good idea to go to a banya - a Russian steam bath - to get warm. I recommend visiting the
Sanduny, the oldest public bathhouse in Russia. I personally recommend to choose a private room with the interior
designed to reflect the Russian fairytale about Tsar Saltan
and enjoy a birch broom massage - the experience cannot
get any more Russian!
How will you celebrate the New Years Eve this year
and what are your plans for the next year? As for
me, my family and friends make all the preparations for
New Years Eve in advance. There is an old Russian saying: a good New Years celebration makes a good year.
We get together around the table full of festive dishes,
recall funny stories, exchange gifts and, of course, toast to
a fruitful New Year when the clock strikes midnight and
make a wish. Next year, however, I want to celebrate New
Years Eve in an unusual way, with a palm tree adorning
my apartment rather than the traditional pine tree!
36 Moscow In Your Pocket
3 stars
Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel
QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495
987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. 144 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,500Rbl).
Cosmos Hotel Moscow
QPr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 10 00, www.
hotelcosmos.ru/eng. (Room prices start at 2,900Rbl.)
Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495
720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room
prices start at 3,990Rbl).
Ibis Moscow Kievskaya
QA-4, Kievskaya ul. 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660
53 53, www.accorhotels.com. Room prices start at
3,500Rbl.
Ibis Paveletskaya
QUl. Shchipok 22/1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661
85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start
at 3,900Rbl).
Heliopark Empire
QA1, 1-ya Brestskaya ul. 60/1, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 251 64 13, www.heliopark.ru. (Room prices
start at 3,500Rbl.)
Hotel Ermitage
QE3, Durasovsky per. 7, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 627
50 00, www.ermitagehotel.ru. (Room prices start at
3,900Rbl.)
Shopping
TSUM
Russian Souvenirs
Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
GUM
Q-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Okhotny Ryad
Q-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Supermarkets
Gum Gastronom 1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24h. ALK
Katusha
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www.katushafood.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Yeliseevsky
Q-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495
650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24h. A
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Platok
A perfect present for any
female friend or relative.
These beautifully designed
and colourful scarves can
either spruce up the outfit
of a young lady by being
worn around the neck or
serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around
the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats.
The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so
delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled
through a womans wedding ring.
Palekh
Palekh is a small town located 360km to the east
of Moscow, which became
famous in Russia for its
specialty in painting icons
and iconography, and had
developed its own unique
style. Their work became
highly demanded for the
adornment of Orthodox
churches, and can be found all over Russia, even within
the Kremlin itself. The style is unique for its use of tempera paints, often on black backgrounds, and oranamented with gold-leaf overlays for highlighting. The
origins and inspirations of their paintings and works
were religious in nature, and so after the revolution
and the bolsheviks strict policy of atheism, the painters had to move to new directions to continue their
craft and make a living, and so the began making small
boxes, cases for cigarettes, etc, and instead drew images of Russian fairytales and folk stories.
Caviar
Black beluga caviar is still
one of the most expensive
foods on the planet and a
small jar can set you back
more than $100 if you buy
it in the market. Never buy
caviar from street touts,
more often than not it is
fake and/or illegal.
Winter 2016 - 2017
37
Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, www.
aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
Q-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
38 Moscow In Your Pocket
Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
Religious Services
Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception
QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru.
Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPauls cathedral
QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod,
tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru.
Historical Moscow Mosque
QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru.
International Christian Fellowship
QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48
01, www.icfmoscow.org.
Moscow Buddhist Centre
QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k),
MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/en.
Moscow Choral Synagogue
QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru.
Seventh-Day Adventist Church
QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7)
499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru.
Moscow Protestant Chaplaincy
QB-2, St. Andrews Church, Voznesensky per. 8,
MOkhotny Ryad, www.mpcrussia.org.
St. Andrews Anglican Church
QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org.
Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy
QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru.
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Charities
Childrens Hospital Fund
QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44,
www.childhospital.ru.
Marias Children Art Center
QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru.
Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia
QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www.
bbbsrussia.org.
Nastenka Foundation
QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS,
Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980
53 77, www.nastenka.ru.
US Dental Care
Well-established and
long-respected American
Board-certified
dentists and hygienists. They speak English
and Russian, have a full
range of general, specialised and childrens
services, extensive cosmetic services and emergency care. The clinic itself
is spotless and high-tech. Direct billing and Corporate membership available. QOlimpiysky prospect
16, bldg. 5, business center Olympic Hall, MPr.
Mira, tel. (+7) 495 933 86 86, www.usdentalcare.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
PTAW
Winter 2016 - 2017
39
St. Petersburg
sightseeing
Aleksander Nevsky Monastery
QNab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo,
tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily
06:00 - 20:00. Admission free.
Artillery Museum
QAleksandrovsky park 7 (entrance from Kronverkskaya nab.), MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 232 02 96, www.
artillery-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue and last Thu of the month. Admission 100 - 400Rbl.
Cruiser Avrora
QE1, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
303 85 13, aurora.org.ru. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. Admission 200 - 600Rbl.
Kazan Cathedral
QKazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46
63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily
services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free.
getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 43), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
Sapsan) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscows main airports and St.
Petersburgs Pulkovo airport.
40 Moscow In Your Pocket
Kunstkamera
QUniversitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl.
HERMITAGE
QDvortsovaya nab. 34 (entrance from Dvortsovaya
pl.), MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 710 90 79, www.
hermitagemuseum.org. Open 10:30 - 18:00, Wed and
Fri 10:30 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 600Rbl.
Free entrance 1st Thu of month. You can buy tickets to
the Main Museum Complex and its branches at the ticket
offices inside the museum, via special terminals at the entrance to the Great Courtyard and online (the visitors with
e-tickets and gift cards can use the separate entrance
to the Main Museum Complex through Shuvalovsky
Proezd). Excursion bureau (+7) 812 710 96 88.
Peter and Paul Fortress
QPetropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel.
(+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is
open 09:00 - 20:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 450Rbl (ticket valid for all museums).
State Memorial Museum of Leningrad
Defence and Siege
QSolyanoy per. 9, MChernyshevskaya, tel. (+7) 812
275 75 47, www.blokadamus.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Wed 12:30 - 20:30. Closed Tue and last Thu of the
month. Admission 60 - 250Rbl.
Yusupov Palace
QNab. reky Moiky 94, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 98
83, www.yusupov-palace.ru. Open 11:00 - 17:00. Group
tours should be booked in advance by phone (+7) 812
314 88 93. Excursions 150 - 700Rbl.
Russian Museum
QInzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595
42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon
10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission
150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 200 - 600Rbl.
St. Isaacs Cathedral
QIsaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Closed
Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second
Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
St. Petersburg
shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
GALERIA
QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 643 31
72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 313
93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57, www.
passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00.
restaurants
Caviar Bar and Restaurant
QBelmond Grand Hotel Europe, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7,
MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.caviar-bar.
com. Open Wed - Sun 17:00 - 23:00. .
Idiot
QNab. reky Moiky 82, MSadovaya, tel. (+7) 921 946 51
73, www.idiot-spb.com. Open 11:00 - 01:00. .
Russkaya Ryumochnaya No.1
QKonnogvardeisky bul. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
570 64 20, www.vodkaroom.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
Tandoor
QAdmiralteisky pr. 10, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 312 38 86, www.tandoor-spb.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. .
Palkin
QNevsky pr. 47, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 703 53
71, www.palkin.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. .
Hamlet&Jacks
QVolynsky per. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 907 07 35,
hamletandjacks.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 02:00. .
HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
belmond Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Solo Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg Airport
QStartovaya ul. 6, bldg. A, MMoskovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 240 42 00, www.cpairport.ru. 294 rooms. hhhh
Novotel St. Petersburg Centre
QUl. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms.
hhhh
Park Inn by Radisson Nevsky
QNevsky pr. 89, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 406 73 10,
www.parkinn.com/hotel-stpetersburg. 269 rooms. hhhh
Sokos Hotel Vasilievsky
Q9-ya Liniya 11-13, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 90, www.sokoshotels.com. 255 rooms. hhhh
AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg
QLermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh
IBIS St. Petersburg Centre
QLigovsky pr. 54, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 622 01
00, www.ibishotel.com/6157. 221 rooms. hhh
Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:28 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:59.
For reservations call 8-800-777-20-19 or book online
at www.poezdmegapolis.ru
41
Russia Travel
Russian photo
Expeditions
Daniel Kordan the man
taking foreigners on photographic journeys around
Russia. Looking through
Daniel Kordans Instagram
page you just wouldnt
believe that some of the
places youre seeing exist
in real life and not in some
fairytale from your childhood. But they do. And some of them are actually in Russia!
Ever since childhood, Daniel Kordan (real name Daniil Korzhonov) has been fascinated by photography and nature.
This fascination has really paid off: Daniel has several photography awards (Golden Turtle 2013 - Nature nomination winner, National Geographic Russia contest 2013 winner, Best of
Russia 2013, 2014 and 2015 winner, Trierenberg Super Circuit
award - best landscape photographer), publications in such
magazines as Digital SLR Magazine, Photography Week, Photography Master Class, National Geographic, Discovery, Photoworld China, Digital Photo (Bauer Media) and some of his
clients include Apple, Gazprom Neft, S7 Airlines and Red Bull.
Daniel is very keen on sharing the actual nature photography
experience with amateur photographers. This is why he leads
photo expeditions around the world - from Greenland to Bolivia and from Chile to Provence. Whats really got us interested, though, are his photo expeditions around Lake Baikal and
the Kamchatka Peninsula. On these expeditions, Daniel takes
foreigners to absolutely stunning yet remote areas of Russia
to photograph some of the most breathtaking scenery on
this planet. Moscow In Your Pocket sat down with Daniel to
have a chat about what he does, why he does and some of
his all time favorite places to photograph.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Russia Travel
What are some of your favorite places on this planet to
photograph and why? This is a difficult question for any
photographer but Ill provide you with my shortlist:
1. Greenland thanks to all of the hidden, unexplored and
remote places. One can find an incredible combination of
beautiful mountains, icebergs, exotic villages, fjords and
emerald lakes and the magnificent Northern Lights.
2. Patagonia for its epic mountains and absolutely stunning
scenery!
3. Lake Baikal in the winter. Its not covered with snow, so
you can travel on pure ice for hundreds of kilometres!
4. Kamchatka. The wild, beautiful and unspoiled nature
makes it a photographers paradise. Multiply the grandeur
of Iceland by 3-4 times and youll get Kamchatkas volcanic
landscape!
What are some of the best places for photo enthusiasts in
Russia? Lake Baikal is one of the main wonders in Russia. It
is especially beautiful in winter. Where else can you see a
huge lake not covered with snow? When you step onto the
ice you feel like in outer space, there is a meter of clear ice
and a kilometer of the purest water under your feet. Photographers adore Lake Baikal because you can see ice textures, Olkhon rocks and a great number of ice grottoes and
caves. It is comfortable to travel around Lake Baikal today
there are comfortable modern lodges with room facilities
and cafes on Olkhon Island.
Kamchatka is a land of volcanoes and geysers. Honestly, I
could go on and on trying to tell you of the peninsulas immense beauty but I think having a look at my photos from
there will do Kamchatka much better justice. Also, the Altai Mountains and the Russian north are definitely worth
checking out with your camera in hand.
What advice could you give our readers to take the perfect
nature photograph?
Be very patient. Make meticulous preparations for your trip,
taking into account transportation, light conditions, seasonal phenomena (like flowers blooming or ice conditions).
But ultimately, composition and light decide everything!
www.danielkordan.com
www.instagram.com/danielkordan
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Solovki
By Luc Jones
The Solovetsky Islands archipelago is one of those places
which people talk about, say that they would love to visit
but disappointing few ever actually do. This, however is
part of the attraction as you wont meet hoards of tourists
in this largely unspoilt part of Russia yet you can get off
the beaten track without having to completely rough it.
Oh, and the name is typically shortened to Solovki.
Although its believed that Solovki have been inhabited for millennia, it was back in 1429 when monks
first built a wooden hermitage on the main island and
in the 1570s a much larger, stone fortress was built
around it as a defense against Swedish attacks. Even
British frigates attacked it during the Crimean war but
the monastery remained intact. Worse was to come
after the October Revolution when the islands were
turned into a labour camp for enemies of the people.
Even if youre not a museum buff and you dont speak
(much) Russian, the main museum on the island is
worth a visit as it is dedicated to those who were interned here during the Stalinist era. Theres no English
translation but the photos, pictures and artifacts speak
for themselves. Entrance is 200Rbl.
Although Solovki ceased to function as a gulag in 1939
(it became a naval training base), the monastery was
badly damaged yet restoration work began only in the
1960s. Monks returned in the 1980s and the islands acquired UNESCO status in 1992, yet even today much of
the inner parts are covered in scaffolding, spoiling your
photos. Given its central location, the monastery is a
logical place to your sightseeing and you dont have to
be a committed God botherer to appreciate both the inner and outer buildings. Entry is free although following
Orthodox tradition, ladies are expected to cover their
heads (scarves are provided).
Behind the monastery is the local tourist office which can
help organize excursions to more remote places which require motorized transport, be it a 4 x 4, or a boat to neighbouring islands although some attractions are easily walk
able from your hotel. Kick off with labyrinth of mysterious
stone circles a ten-minute walk south from the towns
Winter 2016 - 2017
43
Russia Travel
centre, by the sea shore, and the botanical gardens are a 3
KM walk north and also worth a visit. The other museum
of note is a converted boat and tells a history of the region
with a maritime flavor. Entrance is free and its across the
water behind the monastery.
Solovki appear to be caught in a sort of love-triangle
between three parties, all with their own interests. Firstly
the Russian Orthodox Church would like to see tourism
to the islands restricted to religious pilgrimages, whereas
the local authorities are not surprisingly interested in all
types of tourists so long as they spend money! Lastly are
the thousand or so permanent inhabitants who would
like to see general improvements, such as paved roads.
Fortunately, regardless of why you came, youll be made
to feel welcome!
When to go
Only the foolhardy would even consider venturing to
Solovki anytime other than in the summer months as
the White sea freezes over and fog can ground flights
for days.
getting there
There are two main ways; either by air, or a combination of land and sea.
Air Solovkis tiny airport has flights to nearby Arkhangelsk (40 minutes; in the summer theyre at least once
a day, sometimes more often although much less
frequent in the winter) from which there are regular
connections on to both Moscow and St. Petersburg as
there are no direct, scheduled flights from either city.
However, not only are tickets relatively pricey - expect
to pay around 7,500Rbl one way, NordAvia fly Ilyushin
78s propeller planes (think crop-sprayers) which are
prone to delays at even a hint of bad weather. Budgeting a day either side in Arkhangelsk is a wise move or
you risk missing your connection.
Where to stay
There are only a handful of hotels on the island and these
can get booked up in advance so dont assume that
you can just rock up and walk in. We stayed at the Hotel
Priyut which costs 2,500Rbl per night for a double, had
reasonable wifi (our mobile phones didnt work there;
no reception) and breakfast was included. Overlooks the
monastery so couldnt really complain! Also check hotels
Solo (www.solo-vky.ru) and Ostrovito Moryushko (www.
ostrovito.com).
What to eat
Some hotels offer dinner but usually only for guests,
although the Hotel Solovki has a separate restaurant
which can be used by non-guests. Theres also a caf/
stolovaya in the main square which offers cheap, but
adequate meals at lunchtime. Bear in mind that there is
only one shop which sells food and drink its next door
to the museum.
Getting around
The town centre and the Kremlin is easily walk able
from the airport and the port although if you have prearranged transport via your hotel or tour operator, you
will be met upon arrival. Travel light, especially if flying;
that plane aint big!
Spending
Although there is a tiny branch of Sberbank, there is no
ATM on the islands and whilst some establishments claim
to accept credit cards, connections are patchy so bring a
large stack of cash with you, preferably much more than
you think youll need. You may end up spending rather
more time there than you anticipated, if the weather isnt
being kind to you.
Land and sea there are frequent trains from Moscow (also from St. Petersburg and Petrozavodsk) to
Murmansk, which stop at Kem, a 12 km ride to Rabocheostrovsk from where boats depart for Solovki daily.
Timing is key here as neither place has much in the
way of accommodation and what little they have is
typically booked up in advance by tour groups. If possible aim to catch a train which arrives at Kem in the
early hours of the morning (around 06:00) and catch
a waiting cab to the port at Rabocheostrovsk (there
are occasional busses too). Boats leave in the morning
and return in the late afternoon, allowing you to take
an evening train north or south.
www.nasolovki.ru
www.solovky.com
44 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
2016 - 2017
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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Winter 2016 - 2017
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arts-museum.ru. 11:00 - 20:00, 11:00 - 21:00.
.
15.01
-
. .
-: , ,
, ,
,
150 .
, - IX - XX ,
.Q, . 1, M, . (+7) 499 725 72 87, 100 - 350., www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru/.
22.01 .
,
-.
.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
20 : 1995 2015
.
, , ,
.Q . , . 3 .
1, . (+7) 495 228 98 78, 200 - 430., www.
lumiere.ru/. 12:00 - 21:00, , 12:00 - 22:00.
.
05.02
, -
(17461828),
(18981948)
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1953) - .
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( -
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- .Q , . , . 9, . 32,
, M, . (+7) 495 645 05
20, 100 - 400., garagemca.org.
,
. ,
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.
XII
- XVIII , , ,
, , , ,
.QC4, , .10, M, . (+7) 495 951
13 62, 150 - 400., www.tretyakovgallery.ru.
10:00 18:00, , 10:00 21:00. .
2016 - 2017
53
1-3
19:00
,
9
19:00
3,4
19:00
14,16 19:00
22-24 19:00
27-30 19:00
28-31 19:00
2-4
19:00
6-7
19:00
11-15 19:00
13,14 19:00
15
14:00
18
19:00
19-22 19:00
25-28 19:00
1,2
19:00
2-4
19:00
3-5
19:00
7
20:30
12
19:00
13
19:00
14-17 19:00
24,25 19:00
28
19:00
54 In Your Pocket
7
20:00
5
20:00
8
19:00
8
20:00
11
19:00
12
19:00
26-30 19:00
15
19:00
18
18:30
30
20:30
4
19:00
6
19:00
26
19:00
28
20:00
3
20:00
12
18:00
13
18
26
20:00
19:00
19:00
Natalia Oreiro
Alessandro Safina
Brandon Stone
Pet Shop Boys
Emin
David Garret
&
Insight
Jay-Jay Johanson
Blossoms
Smokie
YS
SL
YS
YS
SL
SL
()
Q . 1, M, . (+7) 499
455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
()
Q. 23, M, . (+7)
495 796 86 80, www.parklegends.ru.
()
Q. 1, M . , .
(+7) 495 628 52 32, www.gkd-kremlin.ru.
()
Q 65-66 , M, . (+7) 499 550 00
55, www.crocus-hall.ru.
Yotaspace (YS)
Q. 11, M ., . (+7)
495 230 10 30, www.yotaspace.ru.
Stadium Live (SL)
Q . 80/17, M, . (+7) 495
540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru
()
Q-1, . 14, M. , . (+7) 926
221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru
()
QB-3, . . 19/16, M, .
(+7) 495 250 22 22, www.helikon.ru
moscow.inyourpocket.com
.
, ,
.
. !
:
0 - 800.
1,500 - 2,000.
800 - 1,500.
2,000.
QE-3, 18/15 ( .), M , . (+7) 499 764 99 95,
www.dacha-na-pokrovke.ru. 11:00 24:00. .
QB-2 , . 26a, M, . (+7)
495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. . .
Aurora
QC2, Marriott Royal Aurora Hotel, .
11, M , . (+7) 495 937 10 00,
www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.ru. .
Metropol
QC2, Hotel Metropol, 2,
M, . (+7) 495 480 03 92, www.
metropol-moscow.ru. .
Red & White
QA1, Holiday Inn Lesnaya, . 15,
M, . (+7) 495 783 65 00, moscowhi.ru. .
Samobranka
QB1, Marriott Grand Hotel, . 26,
M, . (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. .
Q . 14, M, . (+7)
495 775 06 56, www.beliy-juravl.ru. 12:00
23:00. .
QD-3, . 2/1 ( .), M , . (+7) 495 621 77 58,
www.darbar.ru. 12:00 24:00. .
Palazzo Ducale
QB-2, . 3, M, . (+7) 495 978
71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. 08:00 - 13:00, ,
09:00 - 12:00.
QC-1, . . 6, . 1, M ,
. (+7) 495 699 45 03, www.sahli.ru. 12:00
23:00. .
QB-2, . . 10, M,
. (+7) 985 764 31 18, www.hacha.ru. 10:00
01:00, , 11:00 01:00. .
QE-2, . 12/2, M , .
(+7) 495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. 10:00
23:00, 12:00 23:00. .
Fresh
QC-2, . . 11, M, . (+7)
965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. 11:00
23:00. .
2016 - 2017
55
Strelka
QC-4, . 14/5A, M, . (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.strelkainstitute.
com. 09:00 24:00, 09:00 03:00,
12:00 03:00, 12:00 24:00.
44
QC-4, . . 24/8, M, .
(+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. 12:00
24:00.
Cross Keys Pub
QB2, . . 3, M, .
(+7) 495 636 29 55. .
Dream Bar
QD-2, . 17, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru.
.
Mybar
QC-2, . 3, . 2, M,
. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. 18:00
06:00.
Noor Bar
QB-2, . 23/12, M, . (+7)
903 136 76 86. . 15:00 03:00,
15:00 06:00.
Time Out Bar
QB-1, . . 5/1 ( , 13
), M, . (+7) 495 229 01 80. 17:00 24:00, 17:00 02:00, , 17:00
06:00.
QC-4, . 8, M, . (+7)
499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. 21:00
10:00.
-
QD-2, . . 24, M, . (+7)
495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. 08:00 24:00,
, . .
Brix
QB-2, . . 10, . 1, M, .
(+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. 12:00 24:00. .
Delicatessen
QC-1, - . 20, . 2, M
, . (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. 12:00 24:00, 12:00 22:00. . .
Extra Virgin
QE-2, . 17, M , . (+7) 967
102 71 97, www.evgrill.ru. 12:00 24:00, ,
12:00 02:00. .
Filial
QD-2, . 3, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 621 21 43, www.filialmoscow.ru. 12:00 24:00, , 12:00 06:00. .
Fleur
Q. 74, M, . (+7) 495 225
82 82, www.moscow-hi.ru/suschevsky/en/restoran-ibar/. 24. .
Food Embassy
QD-1, . 26, . 8, M , .
(+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru.
10:00 24:00, , , 12:00 24:00. .
Gratzi
QB1, Marriott Moscow Tverskaya, 1- . 34, M, . (+7) 495 258 30
00, www.marriott.com. 06:30 24:00.
Grand Alexander
Q1, Marriott Moscow Grand .
26/1, M, . (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.
marriott.com. 12:30 - 23:00. .
Polo Club
Q2, Marriott Royal Aurora, .
11, M, . (+7) 495 937 10 24, www.
marriottmoscowroyalaurora.com. 18:00 23:00. .
Premier
QA1, Renaissance Moscow Monarch Centre,
. 31a, . 1, M, . (+7)
495 995 00 09, www.renaissancemonarchmoscow.ru.
18:30 - 23:00. .
Savva
QC-2, ,
2, M, . (+7) 499 270 10 62, www.
metropolmoscow.ru. 12:00 - 24:00. .
Townhouse
QD-5, . 11, . 1, ( Mercure),
M, . (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.merkure.
com. 06:30 23:00. .
White Rabbit
QA-3, . 3, 16 , M, .
+7 (495) 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. 12:00 06:00. .
moscow.inyourpocket.com
,
,
,
, .
- .
,
,
, , .Q3, M , . (+7) 495 695 41 46,
www.kreml.ru. 10:00 - 17:00. .
, 1505 . I V.
,
.
,
,
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, . : 10:00, 12:00,
14:30, 16:30. . 300 700.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
19 , , , ,
. .
,
.
. .
2016 - 2017
57
c
City
Expert.
.
City Expert
.
.
- Moscow In Your Pocket.QB1, ., M, . (+7) 495 227 79 96,
city-sightseeing.ru/info. 10:00 - 19:00. A
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-, 1,5-2,5
, , I,
,
.
.QA-3, . ,
, M, . (+7)
495 228 55 55, www.radisson-cruise.ru.
13:00. .
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,
.
.
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1924
. .
. QC3, ., M , . (+7) 495 623 55
27, www.lenin.ru. 10:00 - 13:00. , ,
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.
.
1561 , .
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, .
QC-3, ., M , . (+7) 495 698 33
04, www.saintbasil.ru. 11:00 - 17:00. 11:00 18:00. . 100 350.
. 4,5
2 ,
XX . 1881 II
- . - , , .
QC-3, . 1, M , . (+7) 495 692
37 31, www.shm.ru. 10:00 - 18:00. , 10:00 21:00. . 100 350.
58 In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
QC-1, . 3, M , .
(+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. 10:00
18:00, 10:00 21:00, 11:00 19:00.
. 20 250.
Q. 57, M, . (+7) 499
783 22 53, www.darwinmuseum.ru. 10:00
18:00, 13:00 21:00.
. 100 300.
..
Q4, . 12/2, M,
tel. (+7) 495 637 56 74, www.pushkinmuseum.ru.
10:00 - 18:00, 12:00 - 21:00.
. 200.
- ..
QB-2, - . 6, M, .
(+7) 495 691 61 54, 11:00 18:00, 14:00 20:00.
. 100
250. .
Q 7, . 31, M,
. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru. 11:00
20:00, 12:00 21:00. . 50 150.
QB1, 2- - . 20-22 .2,
M, tel. (+7) 495 730 55 26, www.museumaz.ru. 12:00 - 20:00. . 200 - 400.
..
Q .24, .2, M,
. (+7) 495 954 97 64, www.esenin-museum.ru. 10:00 - 18:00, 13:00 - 21:00. ,
. 150 - 200.
QB-2, . 21, M, . (+7) 495 699
54 58. www.sovrhistory.ru. 11:00 - 19:00,
12:00 - 21:00. . 100 - 250.
QC-4, , 10, M, . (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.
ru. , , , 10:00 18:00, , 10:00
21:00. . 150 450.
QB-5, 10, M , . (+7)
499 238 13 78, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. 10:00
19:30. . 150 450.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
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..
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.QB3, . 7, M, . (+7) 495 690 58
81, www.domgogolya.ru. : , , . 12:00
- 19:00, 14:00 - 21:00, , 12:00 - 18:00. . 60 - 150.
2016 - 2017
59
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-
Q , 5-
. (+7) 495 797 54 58, www.arhangelskoe.su.
10:30 17:00, , 10:30 18:00.
, . . 150 - 200.
10:00 21:00.
150 - 50.
500.
: M
151 . ; . 541,549 . .
ARTPLAY
Q. 10, M,
. (+7) 495 620 08 82, www.artplay.ru.
Q4- . 1, . 6, M,
. (+7) 495 917 17 99. 12:00 20:00.
. www.winzavod.ru
Q. , . 9, . 32, ,
M, . (+7) 495 645 05 20.
Q , M, .
(+7) 499 788 60 00, www.redok.ru
Q , . 7, M, . (+7)
495 691 72 05, www.domgogolya.ru/new_wing. 12:00 20:00. 50 - 150.
-
(
)
Q , 6, . (+7) 495 377 94 57, www.
park-kuzminki.ru. 10:00 18:00, 13:00
21:00. . 150. 250.
Q. , 13-15. 100.
150. 100.
: M : 29,
29-, 429; M:
38, 38; M,
M, M .
Q. 2, . (+7) 495 375 31 31, kuskovo.ru.
: 10:00 18:00. ,
. . 10:00
20:00. . 150.,
100., 100,
50. 1,5 3
.
.
: M : .
133, 133 208, ;
M: . 620, . 9,
; M: . 64, .
615, 247, .
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Street register
1905 Goda ul.
Akademika Sakharova pr.
Alexandra Nevskogo ul.
Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul.
Apakova pr.
Arbat ul.
Armyansky per.
Bakhrushina ul.
Balchug ul.
Bernikovskaya nab.
Bersenevskaya nab.
Bobrov per.
Bogoyavlensky per.
Bol. Afanasyevsky per.
Bol. Balkansky per.
Bol. Bronnaya ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka ul.
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul.
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul.
Bol. Karetny per.
Bol. Kazenny per.
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per.
Bol. Kiselny per.
Bol. Kislovsky per.
Bol. Kozikhinsky per.
Bol. Kozlovsky per.
Bol. Levshinsky per.
Bol. Lubyanka ul.
Bol. Molchanovka ul.
Bol. Nikitskaya ul.
Bol. Ordynka ul.
Bol. Palashevsky per.
Bol. Patriarshy per.
Bol. Polyanka ul.
Bol. Sadovaya ul.
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul.
Bol. Spasskaya ul.
Bol. Staromonetny per.
Bol. Strochenovsky per.
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl.
Bol. Sukharevsky per.
Bol. Tatarskaya ul.
Bol. Tatarsky per.
Bol. Tishinsky per.
Bol. Vlasyevsky per.
Bol. Yakimanka ul.
Bol. Znamensky per.
Bolotnaya nab.
Bolotnaya pl.
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya)
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya)
Brestskaya ul. (1ya)
Brestskaya ul. (2ya)
Brodnikov per.
Butikovsky per.
Chayanova ul.
Chistoprudny bul.
Chisty per.
Delegatskaya ul.
Dobryninsky per. (1y)
Dokuchaev per.
Dolgorukovskaya ul.
Dubininskaya ul.
Durasovsky per.
Durova ul.
Ermolaevsky per.
Eropkinsky per.
Fadeeva ul.
Filippovsky per.
Furmanny per.
Gagarinsky per.
Gazetny per.
Gilyarovskogo ul.
Glazovsky per.
Gogolevsky bul.
Golikovsky per.
A-1/2
D-1/2
/B-1
E-4
C-4
B-3
D-2
D-5
D-3/4
E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4
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C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
D-2
C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4
Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
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Paveletskaya pl.
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Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
Plyushchikha ul.
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Pokrovka ul.
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Pomerantsev per.
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Povarskaya ul.
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Prechistenskaya nab.
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Prospekt Mira
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Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
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Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
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E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
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A/B-1
B -2
F-6
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D-5
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C-1
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B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
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E-2
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A-1/2
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Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya
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