Professional Documents
Culture Documents
PARTS FABRICATION
AUTHOR: J. RANDLE
Clock WC5 was designed to be fabricated with as few shop tools as possible. Excluding the wall shelf, the
prototype for this clock was built with the following tools:
o A basic scroll saw with fine tooth blades and an assortment of scroll sanders.
o A drill press with a set of basic twist drills and a set of Forsner bits.
o A turning lathe (useful for grooving rope pulleys but not absolutely necessary)
The wall shelf was designed to be fabricated with the tools available in the shop where the prototype was built.
Its design can be altered by the builder to use whatever tools are available.
Some of the drawings in this section contain all of the dimensions necessary to lay out the subject part. Others,
such as the wheel drawings, contain only basic dimensions. It is intended that the under-dimensioned parts be
fabricated using cutting patterns as laying them out accurately would be very difficult. Where noted the
drawings can be used as cutting patterns if they are printed to scale.
Listed below are notes and suggestions pertaining to the fabrication of some of the parts:
ARBOR SHAFTS The wooden arbor shafts are all designed to be made from good quality dowel stock.
Centering the holes in the ends of the shafts is important. A lathe with a headstock chuck and a tailstock drill
chuck would be handy here. Otherwise, you can make a clamp block similar to the one shown below.
Carefully align the hole in the block with your drill press chuck, clamp the block in place, and use it as a holder
for drilling the shaft end holes.
PINS The pins are all cut from brass rod. 360 H02 brass is soft and can be easily cut with a hacksaw then finish
sanded to length on a disc sander. Drilling a hole to a known depth in the end of a wooden dowel rod then
using the rod as a holder for sanding the short pins works well and saves fingers. The ends of the pins can be
chamfered while in the holder by holding them against a running sanding belt and spinning them between
your fingers. The actual size and angle of the chamfer isnt critical. A typical holder with pin inserted is shown
here. A holder will be needed for each pin diameter.
ROPE SHEAVES All of the rope sheaves are designed to be sawn from single pieces of 12mm (15/32) thick
baltic birch plywood and grooved on a lathe faceplate. If no lathe is available the sheaves can be made by
cutting three pieces of 3mm (1/8) thick plywood to the proper diameter then gluing them together. The
grooves wont be tapered but the pulleys should work okay. Of course they will be only 9mm thick making it
necessary to shim them with washers at assembly.
2
DIAL A simple way to make the dial shown is:
1. Apply the full size adhesive backed pattern sections to plywood stock making sure the sections line up
properly at the pattern match lines.
2. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern at the numbers and minute marks. Be careful to
not cut into the plywood.
3. Spray the cut out pattern with a good wood sealer. This is important to keep the number paint from
soaking into the plywood causing the edges of the numbers to be blurred.
4. Spray the numbers with a good gloss paint of your color choice. Several thin coats will be necessary
to hide the wood grain.
6. Drill and countersink the screw holes. The screw centers are marked on the pattern.
FRAME POSTS The holes in these posts are to be drilled and tapped with the same taps used for tapping screw
holes in metal. Tapping holes in hardwood will provide a strong connection as long as you use coarse thread
taps. The necessary tap drills and taps can be bought at a number of places including your local building
supply.
PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE The upper end of the pendulum suspension spring (pin end) must fit snugly into the
slots in this part but not so snug that the spring cant rotate on its pin. Fit of this part should be checked and
adjusted as necessary during fabrication.
WHEELS If you look at the drawings closely you will note that the gear teeth on the wheels in the time train of
this clock (winding drum to escapement) have an epicycloidal profile on one face and are straight on the
other face. The epicycloidal (front) face is the working face and must be cut accurately. The back face does
not touch anything and is simply cut away for clearance. Cutting away the unused back face makes the
teeth simpler to cut and provides more clearance to compensate for small errors in tooth layout. Because of
the difference in the profile of the front and back faces, the gear teeth must be oriented as shown if the clock
is to run properly.
The wheels not in the time train i.e. WHEEL T-HR, WHEEL T-INT & WHEEL T-6 have epicycloidal faces on both sides
of their teeth. The reason is that these wheels run slack (no load), and backlash here will cause the hour hand
and second hand to be loose.
All of the wheels are drawn as single parts but are actually composites of several pieces of plywood glued
together. The recommended procedure for making WHEEL T-1 is:
1. Apply the furnished wheel pattern to a piece of plywood of the proper thickness.
2. Drill the center hole with a Forsner bit. A Forsner bit creates a cleaner hole than a twist drill would
create. The hole center is clearly marked on the pattern.
3. Cut out the gear blank along its outside diameter. Do not try to cut the teeth yet.
5. Use an xacto knife to carefully cut away the pattern along the profile of each gear tooth. This step
may look useless, but if it is skipped all of the drilling, sawing, and sanding around the teeth will cause
the pattern to come loose making it difficult to properly finish the part.
6. Carefully drill a hole at the root of each tooth. You will have to use a twist drill here because Forsner
bits that small arent available. Accurate location is important here.
3
7. Drill the five pin holes at the location shown.
9. Use scroll sanders to shape the teeth to the pattern. Dont quit sanding too soon. Clearance
between the gear teeth and the pinion pins is critical.
10. When finished with the teeth, use an xacto knife to carefully make a cut through the pattern around
the outside circle shown on the pattern.
12. Lay the wheel aside and cut a ring from another piece of plywood. The ring dimensions are shown on
the drawing.
13. Glue the ring to the wheel using the outer portion of the pattern as a guide.
15. Saw out circular pieces of plywood which can be stacked together to provide a thickness equal to
the length of the wheel hub. The diameter of the pieces should be slightly larger than the diameter of
the hub.
16. With a Forsner bit drill a hole in the center of each circular piece. The hole should be the same
diameter as the hole in the center of the wheel.
17. Sand the pieces to the finished diameter of the wheel hub. This can easily be done on a belt/disc
sander by making a jig as shown here; inserting the disc on the jig pin and slowly rotating it as the
sander cuts it to size.
18. Glue the hub pieces to the wheel. An excellent way to do this is to drill a hole the same size as the
wheel center hole in one jaw of a wooden parallel clamp; insert a piece of dowel rod into the hole
from the back; stack the parts to be glued on the rod; close the parallel clamp; and then remove the
dowel rod. A typical gluing setup is shown here:
19. When the glue is dry, remove the wheel from the clamp, clean up any drips, and spray the entire
wheel with a coat of wood sealer.
20. When the sealer is dry, lightly sand the working faces of the gear teeth to remove the wood sealer
from them. A clock will not run if sealer or any other finish is allowed to build up on its gear teeth.
ANCHOR The shape of the pallets (the tips of the anchor) is arguably the most important feature in the clock.
The pallet angles affect the amount of force applied to the pendulum to keep it swinging. Be especially
careful to cut them to the proper angle and sand them smooth. Only round the tips enough to remove any
burrs. Do not leave any wood sealer on the pallet faces. In fact, putting a single drop of good quality clock oil
on each pallet face and allowing it to soak into the wood is a good idea.
PENDULUM BOB SHELL The shell of the pendulum bob was designed to be cut as two pieces for convenience.
You can glue both patterns to the same piece of wood and cut it as a single piece if you like.
PENDULUM BOB SHELL COVERS It is a good idea to cut both shell covers slightly oversize, then sand them to fit
the shell after the pendulum bob is assembled.
WEIGHT SHELL TOPS The tops of the weight shells were designed as a composite of several pieces. Since
thicknesses of plywood can vary slightly, it is a good idea to cut the outside pieces of the composite a bit wider
than shown. This will allow you to trim the assembled part to the correct width after gluing. When trimming, be
sure to keep the part symmetrical about its center line.
Since the top of the small weight shell is made up of only three pieces, and since the gap between the outer
pieces needs to be held to the dimension shown, its overall width may vary slightly. You may need to adjust the
width of the shell front and back panels and the width of the shell bottom slightly to compensate.
WEIGHT SHELL FRONT & BACK PANELS It is a good idea to cut the weight shell front and back panels slightly
wider than shown, then to sand them to fit the side panels after gluing.
Fabrication of the parts not mentioned above should be obvious from studying the drawings and the notes and
suggestions above. If you have questions about any of them feel free to contact the designer at
woodclocks@charter.net for answers.
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
1 BLOCK 1/2" W X 3/4" H X 2 5/32" LG OAK 2 FABRICATE
2 CURVED DISC SPRING MC # 9716K52 301 STAINLESS STEEL 1 MCMASTER-CARR
3 DOWEL PIN 0.0625 DIA X 1/2" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
4 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K86, 3/16" ID x 5/16" OD x 1/4" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 20 MCMASTER-CARR
5 FLANGED BEARING MC # 6294K89, 3/8" ID X 1/2" OD X 3/8" LG MDS-FILLED NYLON 2 MCMASTER-CARR
6 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #10 NOM BRASS 15 LOCAL HDWR
7 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD 3/8 NOM BRASS 3 LOCAL HDWR
8 FLAT WASHER, SMALL OD #4 NOM BRASS 2 LOCAL HDWR
9 LEAD FILL MC # 9030K34 #8 LEAD SHOT (9 LBS) 1 MCMASTER-CARR
10 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #8-32UNC BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
11 MACHINE SCREW HEX NUT #4-40 UNC BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
12 OVAL HD MACHINE SCREW #8-32 UNC x 1 1/8" LG BRASS 4 LOCAL HDWR
13 PENDULUM ROD 1/2" DIA X 31" LG OAK 1 FABRICATE
14 PLUG 3/4" DIA [COMPRESSED] x 1/2" LG CORK 2
15 ROPE 1/8" DIA X 10'-6" LG (BRAIDED) NYLON 1 LOCAL HDWR
16 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #10-24 UNC x 1" LG BRASS 8 LOCAL HDWR
17 ROUND HD MACHINE SCREW #4-40 UNC x 5/8" LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
18 SPLIT PIN M2 x 12 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
19 SPLIT PIN M2 x 22 MM LG BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
20 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64 DIA X 3/4" LG STAINLESS STEEL 4 MCMASTER-CARR
21 SPRING PIN (SLOTTED) 5/64" DIA X 3/8" LG STAINLESS STEEL 6 MCMASTER-CARR
22 SUSPENSION SPRING NORKRO # SS-41 1 NORKRO
23 THREADED ROD #10-24UNC X 1 3/4" LG STEEL 4 LOCAL HDWR
24 THUMB NUT #10-32UNF BRASS 1 LOCAL HDWR
25 WC5-00-01 SHAFT OAK 4 FABRICATE
26 WC5-00-02-A PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
27 WC5-00-02-B PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
28 WC5-00-02-C PIN 360 H02 BRASS 7 FABRICATE
29 WC5-00-02-D PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
30 WC5-00-02-E PIN 360 H02 BRASS 18 FABRICATE
31 WC5-00-02-F PIN 360 H02 BRASS 11 FABRICATE
32 WC5-00-02-G PIN 360 H02 BRASS 12 FABRICATE
33 WC5-00-02-H PIN 360 H02 BRASS 5 FABRICATE
34 WC5-00-02-J PIN 360 H02 BRASS 20 FABRICATE
35 WC5-00-02-K PIN 360 H02 BRASS 3 FABRICATE
36 WC5-00-02-L PIN 360 H02 BRASS 15 FABRICATE
37 WC5-00-03 ROPE SHEAVE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
38 WC5-00-04 SHAFT 360 H02 BRASS 2 FABRICATE
39 WC5-01-01 SHELF OAK 1 FABRICATE
40 WC5-01-02 BACK PLATE OAK 1 FABRICATE
41 WC5-01-03 BRACE OAK 2 FABRICATE
42 WC5-02-01 FRAME PLATE, REAR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
43 WC5-02-02 FRAME PLATE, MIDDLE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
44 WC5-02-03 FRAME PLATE, FRONT BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
45 WC5-02-04 DIAL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
46 WC5-02-05 FRAME POST OAK 8 FABRICATE
47 WC5-02-06 DIAL POST OAK 4 FABRICATE
48 WC5-02-07 PENDULUM SUPPORT BRIDGE BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
49 WC5-02-08 PIN 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
50 WC5-03-01 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
51 WC5-03-02 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
52 WC5-03-03-01 CLICK BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 5 FABRICATE
WC5 CONSOLIDATED PARTS LIST
ITEM PART NO. DESCRIPTION MATERIAL QTY. SOURCE
53 WC5-03-04 ROPE PULLEY BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
54 WC5-03-05 ROPE PIN STAINLESS STEEL 8 FABRICATE
55 WC5-04-01 SHAFT OAK 1 FABRICATE
56 WC5-04-02 PIVOT (BACK) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
57 WC5-04-03 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
58 WC5-05-01 PIVOT (FRONT) 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
59 WC5-05-02 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
60 WC5-05-03 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
61 WC5-05-04 HAND (MINUTE) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
62 WC5-05-05 HAND (HOUR) BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
63 WC5-06-01 DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
64 WC5-06-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
65 WC5-07-01 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
66 WC5-08-01 ESCAPE WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
67 WC5-09-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
68 WC5-09-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
69 WC5-09-03 SECOND DISC BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
70 WC5-10-01 PIVOT 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
71 WC5-10-02 WHEEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
72 WC5-11-01 ANCHOR BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
73 WC5-11-02 IMPULSE LEVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
74 WC5-12-01 LEADER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
75 WC5-12-02 BOB GUIDE OAK 1 FABRICATE
76 WC5-12-03 ADJUSTING ROD 360 H02 BRASS 1 FABRICATE
77 WC5-12-04-01 SHELL HALF BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
78 WC5-12-04-02 SHELL COVER BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
79 WC5-13-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
80 WC5-13-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
81 WC5-13-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
82 WC5-13-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
83 WC5-14-01 SHELL TOP BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
84 WC5-14-02-A FRONT/BACK PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
85 WC5-14-02-B SIDE PANEL BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 2 FABRICATE
86 WC5-14-03 SHELL BOTTOM BALTIC BIRCH PLYWOOD 1 FABRICATE
A 3/8"
"A" "B"
"C" TYP
15
A
1 7/8"
R1/16"
1 3/8"
3/8"
A
SECTION A-A
1 3/8"
5/64" 1 7/32"
3/16"
4"
1 7/8"
1 1/4"
6 1/4"
2 15/16"
R1/4" TYP
2X 1/2" THRU
2X 3/16" THRU
1 1/2" 2 7/8" 1 1/2"
1/2"
R3"
R1/8" TYP
4"
1 3/4"
18"
R26 13/64"
15 3/8"
23 1/4"
1/2" 1/2"
R3/4"
3 3/4"
9" 3/16"
1 3/4"
R3/4"
10 3/8"
R1 1/2"
4"
R3"
R1/2"
3 3/4"
5"
R3/4"
2 7/8"
3 1/2"
R1 7/8"
R1"
2 7/8"
4 1/4"
6
12 15/64"
15/32" 3/16"
1" TYP
4X 13/64" THRU
7/8"
R45 61/64"
R45 61/64"
1"
11 7/32"
7 1/4"
5/8"
2 15/32"
R1/4" TYP
R4" 1 1/2"
R1/2"
7"
2 59/64"
2 19/64"
REF
2 1/4"
REF
5X 5/16" THRU
2 5/8"
REF
9 27/32"
7 27/32"
7 5/8"
3 1/8"
2 1/8"
1/2" THRU
5/16" THRU
1/8" 3/4"
1 3/8"
5/64"
THRU ALL
3/16" THRU
SECTION A-A A A
3/4"
2 1/2"
6
7" B.C. 15/64"
4X 11/64" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED
ON BOLT CIRCLE
45
1/16" 1/8" 3
3/16" 1/8"
1/2"
3/4"
9/64"
TYP
9 1/2"
6 1/2"
7" B.C.
45
30 TYP
5/8"
A
2X 5/32" 1"
10-24 UNC 7/8"
SECTION A-A
5/8"
1/2"
11/64" THRU
15/32"
1/32"
2 5/8" REF
1 1/8"
1/32"
3/8"
3/16" 1/4"
6 6
2 5/32"
15/64" 15/64"
1/16"
R1/16"
13/16"
1/64" X 45
5/32"
1/4"
17.60
11/16"
6
15/64"
6
15/64"
5X 1/8" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON B.C.
3 13/16"
5"
4 1/4"
3 1/4" B.C. 3/16"
38 TEETH
3/8" THRU
43/64"
3/8"
1/64" X 45
3/32" THRU ALL
A A
6
15/64"
9/64" THRU
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
1/8"
1/4"
DETAIL A 12
15/32"
SCALE 2 : 1
3
1/8"
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
3/8" THRU
REAM FOR FREE
FIT ON PIVOT
B
A
3/4"
4 1/4"
3 1/8"
3 1/8"
45 TYP
2 3/4"
32
SECTION B-B
2 7/16"
4 1/4"
1 25/32"
19/32"
15/32"
1/16"
5/64" THRU
1/32" X 45 TYP
1 9/32"
2 1/32"
1/4"
3/16"
1/64" X 45 TYP
3/32" THRU ALL
2 3/16"
2 1/64"
1 3/32"
3/8"
3/16"
R1/8"
1" 3/8"
1"
2"
GLUE LINES
4 43/64"
A
SECTION A-A
THIS DRAWING VIEW CAN BE USED AS A CUTTING
PATTERN WHEN PRINTED TO SCALE. TO VERIFY THAT
THE PRINTOUT IS TO SCALE CHECK THE DIMENSIONS
OF THE BOX IN THE TITLE BLOCK.
6
15/64"
1 1/2"
1/8"
3/16" THRU
3/4"
9
23/64"
9X 1/8" THRU
1"
3/4" H.C.
3/8" THRU
R1/8"
3/4"
5/16"
4 11/64"
4 7/16"
3 3/16"
5/16" THRU
3/4"
R1/8"
1"
3/8"
3 59/64"
9X 1/8" THRU
R1/8"
1"
3 53/64"
3/8" THRU
15 X 3/32" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON H.C.
1 3/16"
11 X 1/8" THRU
EQUALLY SPACED ON H.C.
2 5/8"
3/8" THRU
17/64" 1 5/16"
3/16"
1/64" X 45 TYP
5/64" THRU ALL
1"
1 9/64"
5/64"
1/64" X 45 TYP
2"
3/4"
3/16" THRU
1/8"
1"
3/4"
3/8"
2 1/4"
3/16"
1/64" X 45 TYP
3/32"
12 X 1/8" THRU
R1/8"
1 1/4"
3 59/64"
5/16" THRU
1/8" TYP
3/8"
1 1/2"
1/8"
2"
GLUE LINE
45
5 1/2"
1/8" THRU
3/8"
6
15/64"
9/16"
1 1/2"
45 TYP
GLUE LINES
3/16" TYP
5 1/2"
9"
1/8"
1"
1/4"
R1/2" TYP
30 TYP
1 3/4"
1 1/2"
1 1/8"
1/2"
1 1/2"
3 3/4"
1/2"
11/16"
3/4"
1/8"
3 1/2"
2 1/2"
#10-32 UNF
R3 39/64" R1 1/2"
REF
4 1/4"
R3 39/64"
REF
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
15/32" 15/32"
REF REF
R3/8" 3/16"
7/8"
1 15/32"
12
15/32"
GLUE LINE
TYP
2" 2"
"A" 3
1/8"
2"
2"
12
15/32"
3/4" THRU
1 1/16"
1 1/16"
12
15/32"
6 6
15/64" 15/64"
R3/8"
3/16"
7/8"
1 15/32"
12
15/32"
GLUE LINE
TYP
1 1/16" 1 1/16"
"A" 3
1/8"