Putting Africa On The Fashion Map

7/18/2016 PuttingAfricaontheFashionMap
10 MAY 2015
What will it take for Africa to join
COMMENT
THE ISSUE
What will it take for Africa to join the global fashion system?
Fashion has become a truly global business. China, India, South-East Asia, Latin America and the former
Soviet bloc are all integrated into the global fashion industry. But Africa, home to one in seven people on the
planet, remains on the fringes of the sector, both in terms of manufacturing and consumption. Africa still
faces economic, geo-political and social challenges, yet a third of the continents one billion people are now
upwardly mobile and over the next decade, this colossal, yet fragmented market of 55 independent countries
will become a lucrative frontier opportunity as both a source of production and a consumer market for
fashion. What will it take for Africa to join the global fashion system?
CONTEXT
Tapping the $31 Billion Africa Opportunity
By ROBB YOUNG
Sub-Saharan Africas combined apparel and footwear market is already worth $31 billion, according to
data modelled by Euromonitor. BoF spotlights six rms that are beating the odds and cashing in.
https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/whatwillittakeforafricatojointheglobalfashionsystem/puttingafricafashionmap 1/12
1,590 Shares 3 Comments
Putting Africa on the Fashion Map
By ROBB YOUNG
As both a source of production and a consumer market, Africa is poorly integrated into the global
fashion system, leading to lost business opportunity.
2,758 Shares 6 Comments
OPINIONS
LAURA EBOA SONGUE
Op-Ed | All African Fashion Needs is Structure
The success of a pan-African fashion industry hinges on the continent getting more organised, more
ecient and more ROI-focused, argues Laura Eboa Songue.
872 Shares 4 Comments
FATOUMATA BA
Managing Director, Jumia Nigeria
Op-Ed | Internet Access Will Transform Fashion in Africa
Logistical obstacles may still plague Africas fashion market, but progress in IT is already having a big
impact, argues Fatoumata Ba.
150 Shares Comment
HANNELI RUPERT
Founder & Owner, Merchants on Long & Okapi
Op-Ed | Africa Needs Credible International Partners
The fashion industry needs to foster more substantial and deeply-rooted business partnerships in
Africa, argues Hanneli Rupert.
494 Shares Comment
LIYA KEBEDE
Model & Businesswoman
Op-Ed | Approach Africa with a New Mindset
For Africa to attract the investment it needs, the fashion world needs to let go of some myths and
misconceptions about the continent, says Liya Kebede.
627 Shares Comment
MARC COMPAGNON
President, LF Sourcing
Op-Ed | Africa, Fashion s Next Sourcing Hub?
Africas integration into the global apparel industry is a question of when, not if, says Marc
Compagnon of Li & Fung.
767 Shares Comment
CHRIS FOLAYAN
Founder, Mall for Africa

Op-Ed | Africa s Fashion Revolution Will Be Digital
Better, cheaper, faster Internet infrastructure is urgently needed to put Africas fashion retailers,
entrepreneurs and consumers on the map, says Chris Folayan.
38 Shares Comment
OMOYEMI AKERELE
Creative & Managing Director, Stylehouse Files
Op-Ed | Stop Waiting for the Perfect Moment to Invest in Africa
Some international fashion players are dithering for too long or taking a half-hearted approach to
African markets, says Omoyemi Akerele, founder of Lagos Fashion and Design Week.
143 Shares Comment
HELEN JENNINGS
Editor-in-Chief, Nataal
Op-Ed | Elevate African Luxury Through Sustainability
High-end fashion from Africa can gain a competitive advantage by continuing to enhance its
sustainability credentials, says Helen Jennings.
336 Shares Comment
TOP COMMENTS
The west doesn't owe us a place at the table, we have to create our own space.
By SEJA ELINE
In Africa its still a myth in some communities to understand that someone

can go to school and study to become a fashion designer or work in the fashion
industry.

By SHEILA LUKWANZI
We need the government in the african countries to understand, support
nancially and pay more attention to creative studies.

By BEATRACE OOLA
GLOBAL CURRENTS
BY ROBB YOUNG
MAY 10, 2015 10:55
As both a source of production and a consumer market, Africa is

poorly integrated into the global fashion system, leading to lost
business opportunity.
CAPE TOWN, South Africa Vast tracts of the globe have been ushered into the fashion
system over the past decade. The arrival of the Far East, the Middle East, Latin America and the
former Soviet bloc have helped to redraw the fashion map and turn what was once a parochial,
insular and Euro-centric industry on its head.
As a result, fashion today is a far more cosmopolitan and geographically diverse enterprise than
it was a generation ago. Yet there is one region that still remains on the fringes of this otherwise
global business: Africa.
Brimming with culture, creativity, talent, ambition and natural resources, but plagued by poor
infrastructure, poverty, corruption, protectionism, bureaucracy and political instability, Africa
is anything but straightforward or monolithic. And herein lies the most fundamental issue of all.
The very notion of an African market can be misleading. Unlike the European Union, the 55
distinctive countries that make up the African Union are not economically integrated as a single
common market. With over 50 dierent trading and legal conventions, ten overlapping regional
blocs, a dozen climate zones and 2,000 spoken languages, this is a highly fragmented and
precarious region, whether youre sourcing, producing, selling or doing anything else along the
fashion value chain. But it is one with scale and potential like no other.
Africa is home to one in seven people on the planet and occupies more real estate than China,
America, India and Europe combined. In one sense, the Africa Rising narrative that has been
playing at conferences and boardroom meetings couldnt be more accurate. According to the
2014 Ventures Africa Rich List, there are 55 billionaires in the 55 countries that criss-cross the
continent. Meanwhile, New World Wealth counts 165,000 African millionaires, who together
hold an incredible 28 percent of the continents total personally-held wealth.
At the other end of the spectrum, scores of Africans are still ghting their way out of
poverty, while many more remain under its oppressive yoke. In conditions unimaginable to
most of us, a third of Africas 1 billion people live on less than $2 per day. But according to the
African Development Bank, there is a new upwardly mobile mass of around 350 million people
earning between $2 and $20 per day, who are driving growth in burgeoning consumer markets
like fashion.
Though the business challenges in Africa can be as epic as the opportunities, things are
noticeably improving. It is true that logistics and transportation networks are so poor that it
costs two to three times more to deliver merchandise to an African customer than to their
counterparts in most developed countries. However, The Economist calculates that over the
past decade, 75,000 kilometres of new road have been built on the continent, thanks in large
part to investment by the Chinese. And, although Africas retail sector is still overwhelmingly
informal, there are dozens of new shopping malls being built all over the continent.
With competitive labour costs, Africa has the potential to claim a much greater share of the
worlds apparel and textile manufacturing output, but to achieve this, signicant international
investment is needed to build the industrial infrastructure required to compete with the likes of
Asia. Nevertheless, a few bright spots are now emerging where clothing and footwear factories
are creating both competitive products and sustainable jobs, such as in Mauritius, Ethiopia and
Madagascar.
You don't need to be a maverick or a rst- mover to succeed in Africa anymore. According to the
World Bank, the average annual growth rate across the continent is around ve percent and the
risk-to-reward ratio is much lower than it once was. Many African fashion businesses, large and
small, are both innovative and protable but most will continue to underperform if they
remain unplugged from the global fashion grid. Fortunately, at this juncture, support from the
right international partners has the potential to pay dividends for investors and local businesses
alike.
Sub-Saharan Africas Fashion Capitals, Industry Hubs and Centres of Style
1. Abidjan, Ivory Coast

Famed for its skyscrapers and high-octane nightlife, this Francophone metropolis is the
commercial capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $549 million.
Population: 4.8 million
Resident Millionaires: 1,100
Key Fashion Players: Alain Niava, Laurence Chauvin Buthaud (Laurenceairline), Loza
Malombho, Centre Commercial Cap Sud
2. Accra, Ghana
With a burgeoning entertainment industry, this cultural gateway to West Africa is the capital of
a national apparel and footwear market worth $167 million.
Key Fashion Players: Claudia Lumar (Glitz), Accra Mall, Ko Sekyere (West Hills Mall), Duaba
Serwa, Ko Ansah (d. 2014), Joyce Ababio, Christie Brown
3. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Headquarters of the African Union and a burgeoning manufacturing hub, this is the capital of a
national apparel and footwear market worth $440 million.
Resident Millionaires: 700
Key Fashion Players: Liya Kebede (Lemlem), Yodit Eklund (Bantu), Ma by Mahlet Afework,
Hiwot Gashaw (Abugida), Bethlehem Tilahun Alemu (SoleRebels)
4. Cape Town, South Africa

This bohemian melting pot was the 2014 World Design Capital and is the legislative capital of a
national apparel and footwear market worth $14.4 billion.
Key Fashion Players: Ian Moir (Woolworths), Emilie Gambade (Elle), Hanneli Rupert (Okapi),
Callaghan, Kluk Cgdt, Spree.co.za, Laduma Ngxokolo, Lalesso
5. Dakar, Senegal
Dubbed 'the Paris of Africa', this ourishing centre for art and refreshing street style is the
capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $215 million.
Population: 5 million
Key Fashion Players: Oumou Sy, Selly Raby Kane, Adama Ndiaye (Dakar Fashion Week), Omar
Victor Diop, Sea Plaza (Teyliom)
6. Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

This upcoming East African business hub and Indian Ocean port is the commercial capital of a
national apparel and footwear market worth $1.1 billion.
Key Fashion Players: Mustafa Hassanali (Swahili Fashion Week), Gabriel Ole Mollel, Ailinda
Sawe, Quality Plaza, Mlimani City
7. Kinshasa, Congo DRC

Home to the legendary Les Sapeurs style movement and a vibrant music industry, this is the
capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $620 million.

Key Fashion Players: Okasol, Gloria Mteyu (Kinshasa Fashion Week), Tina Lobondi, Moseka,
Jeampy Ombali
8. Johannesburg, South Africa

Hosting Africa's largest stock exchange and its biggest business tycoons, this is the commercial
capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $14.4 billion.
Key Fashion Players: Precious Moloi-Motsepe (AFI), Lucilla Booyzen (SAFW), Khanyi Dhlomo
(Luminance), David Tlale, Black Coee, Edcon, Surtee, Kisua.com
9. Lagos, Nigeria
Where oil money meets the Nollywood lm industry, this megacity is the commercial capital of
a national apparel and footwear market worth $4.7 billion.
Population: 13 million (21 million metro area)
Key Fashion Players: Omoyemi Akerele (GTBank LFDW), Tayo and Ayo Amusan (Persianas),
Reni Folawiyo (Alara), Ikeja City, Lisa Folawiyo, Tiany Amber, Maki Oh, Orange Culture
10. Luanda, Angola

One of the most expensive cities in the world, this Lusophone boomtown of oil and luxury is the
capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $1.5 billion.
Key Fashion Players: Hadjalmar El Vaim (Angola Fashion Week), Nadir Tati, Rose Palhares,
Soraya da Piedade, Belas Shopping, Kinaxixi
11. Nairobi, Kenya

Nicknamed Silicon Savannah for its booming technology sector, this East African retail hub is
the capital of a national apparel and footwear market worth $1 billion.
Key Fashion Players: Muchiri Wahome (Deacons), Little Red, Carol Odero, KikoRomeo, Wambui
Kibue, Katungulu Mwendwa, Galleria, Westgate, The Junction, Diana Opoti
National apparel & footwear market data modelled by Euromonitor International. Resident
millionaires calculated by New World Wealth. Population gures according to the United Nations.
A version of this article rst appeared in a special print edition of The Business of Fashion, which
highlights 7 Issues Facing Fashion Now, from sustainability and the human cost of
manufacturing clothing to untapped business opportunities in technology, Africa and the plus-size
market.
Join the discussion on BoF Voices, a new platform where the global fashion community can come
together to express and exchange ideas and opinions on the most important topics facing fashion
today.
What will it take for Africa to join the global fashion system?
What's your opinion?
6Comments TheBusinessofFashion Login
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Jointhediscussion
carlaansley ayearago
Thisplatformforopedsiscrucialtothecommunicationsneedsodesperatelyasitrelatesto
AfricaandApparel.Iwanttomakeachange,signmeup!!Betteryet,Iwillleadalongwith
others.ThankyouforthiscommunicationsandinciteIhavebeenlookingforthisdialogueon
Africanapparelanditsresources.
Reply Share
DamyAdesanya ayearago
@WALEOYERINDEWecanalwayschangetherhetoricof"MadeinAfrica"beingassociated
withinferiorgoods.BytransformingAfricanmadeproductsintoqualitygoodsandmakingthem
availabletolocalandinternationalmarkets.Iguaranteeweallwillnoticeaparadigmshiftas
longaswedon'tcompromiseonthequalityofourproductsandwefocusonproviding
exceptionalservicetoourcustomers.That'smyvisionforAKANBIDesigns..MadeinAfrica..Sewn
inUSA.
www.akanbi.com
1 Reply Share
PaulThickpenny ayearago
Africahasthepotential..
www.jivaro.com.au
Reply Share
LornaA ayearago
I'mnotsureifIagreewiththeKeyFashionPlayersoftheNairobiFashionindustry.Theyarejust
knownwithinthefashionindustrybuttheydon'tinfluenceit.MaybeexceptDeacons.Butthat"s
justme.AsafashiondesignerinKenyamajorityofKenyansevenNairobiansbarelyunderstand
theindustry.I'mnotsurewhatisbeingconsideredtomakethementionedpeoplekeyplayers
Reply Share
WALEOYERINDE ayearago
"MADEINAFRICA"foralongtimehasalwaysbeenassociatedwithinferiororcraftygoods.At
thispointintime,wehavealotofincredibletalents.....wewillneedtojointlyputitmorework
andproveourselfasacontinent.Tellingtheworldweareready.Howeverthiswillnotbeanevent
butaprocess.
1 Reply Share
PamelaAtekpe>WALEOYERINDE ayearago
Butwhytheglobal"MadeinAfrica"afteralldoclotheshave"MadeinEurope"onthem.
Ibelievethisispartoftheproblem.Weallstillbeingseenasonecountryratherthana
continenteventhoughourtradewithourneighboursissometimesevenonlypossible
indirectly.IproduceinWestAfricaGhanaandassuchhavethemadeinGhanaorvalue
addedinWestAfricabecausetheskillsusedarespecificandthereforewithoutthe
historicalskillsettheproductwillnotbewhatitis.Maybeweallneedtoactuallydothat
andleavetheassociationwiththe"MadeinAfrica"behindafterallthatisalsoeducating
theworldtotheuniquenessofeachstory.
Reply Share
ALSOONTHEBUSINESSOFFASHION
NewYorkCitytoNameIntersection'Bill ValentinoConfirmsMariaGraziaChiuriExit
CunninghamCorner' 5comments11daysago
1comment12daysago AvatarPhoebeMetoo!Plushewassuchalossto
AvatarAnnThat'swonderfultosee,butsadtoread Lanvin.
thatbureaucracygetsinthewayofhonoringhim
inamore
BoFExclusive|TheReturnofOlivier SidneyToledano:'ExpectaNewDior'
Theyskens 10comments10daysago
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7/18/2016 PuttingAfricaontheFashionMap

What will it take for Africa to join

Tapping the $31 Billion Africa Opportunity

1,590 Shares 3 Comments

Putting Africa on the Fashion Map

2,758 Shares 6 Comments

LAURA EBOA SONGUE

Op-Ed | All African Fashion Needs is Structure

872 Shares 4 Comments

Op-Ed | Internet Access Will Transform Fashion in Africa

150 Shares Comment

Op-Ed | Africa Needs Credible International Partners

494 Shares Comment

Op-Ed | Approach Africa with a New Mindset

627 Shares Comment

Op-Ed | Africa, Fashion s Next Sourcing Hub?

767 Shares Comment

Op-Ed | Stop Waiting for the Perfect Moment to Invest in Africa

143 Shares Comment

Op-Ed | Elevate African Luxury Through Sustainability

336 Shares Comment

In Africa its still a myth in some communities to understand that someone

We need the government in the african countries to understand, support

nancially and pay more attention to creative studies.

Putting Africa on the Fashion Map

As both a source of production and a consumer market, Africa is

Sub-Saharan Africas Fashion Capitals, Industry Hubs and Centres of Style

1. Abidjan, Ivory Coast

3. Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

4. Cape Town, South Africa

6. Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania

7. Kinshasa, Congo DRC

Resident Millionaires: 500

8. Johannesburg, South Africa

10. Luanda, Angola

11. Nairobi, Kenya

Putting Africa on the Fashion Map

What's your opinion?

6Comments TheBusinessofFashion Login

Recommend Share SortbyNewest

Subscribe d AddDisqustoyoursiteAddDisqusAdd Privacy

10 July 2016 25 April 2016

into the global marketplace?

3 April 2016 14 March 2016

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