1.

1 ABOUT THE INDUSTRY

TEXTILE INDUSTRY
The textile industry is primary concerned with the design and production of yarn cloth, clothing,
and their distribution. The raw material may be natural, or synthetic using products of the chemical
industry.
Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the year 2007, the global yield was 25 million
tons from 35 million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries. There are five stages.
Cultivating and Harvesting
Preparatory Processes
Spinning- giving yarn
Weaving- giving fabrics
Finishing- giving textiles
Synthetic fibre
Artificial fibres can be made by extruding a polymer, through a spinneret into a medium where it
hardens. Wet spinning (rayon) uses a coagulating medium. In dry spinning (acetate and triacetate),
the polymer is contained in a solvent that evaporates in the heated exit chamber. In melt spinning
(nylons and polyesters) the extruded polymer is cooled in gas or air and then sets. All these fibres
will be of great length, often kilometres long.
Artificial fibres can be processed as long fibres or batched and cut so they can be processed like a
natural fibre.
Natural fibres
Natural fibres are either from animals (sheep goat, rabbit,) mineral (asbestos) or from plants
(cotton, flax, sisal). These vegetable fibres can come from the seed (cotton), the stem (known as
bast fibres: flax, Hemp, Jute) or the leaf (sisal). Without exception, many processes are needed
before a clean even staple is obtained- each with a specific name. With the exception of silk, each
of these fibres is short being only centimeters in length, and each has a rough surface that enables
it to bond with similar staples.

1.1.1 HISTORY
Cottage stage
There are some indications that weaving was already known in the Palaeolithic. An indistinct textile
impression has been found at Pavlov, Moravia. Neolithic textiles were found in pile
dwellings excavations in Switzerland and at El Fayum, Egypt at a site which dates to about 5000
BC.
In Roman times, wool, linen and leather clothed the European population, and silk, imported along
the Silk Road from China, was an extravagant luxury. The use of flax fibre in the manufacturing of
cloth in Northern Europe dates back to Neolithic times.
During the late medieval period, cotton began to be imported into northern Europe. Without any
knowledge of what it came from, other than that it was a plant, noting its similarities to wool, people
in the region could only imagine that cotton must be produced by plant-borne sheep. John
Mandeville, writing in 1350, stated as fact the now-preposterous belief: "There grew in India a
wonderful tree which bore tiny lambs on the endes of its branches. These branches were so pliable
that they bent down to allow the lambs to feed when they are hungry." This aspect is retained in the
name for cotton in many European languages, such as German Baumwolle, which translates as "tree
wool". By the end of the 16th century, cotton was cultivated throughout the warmer regions of Asia
and the Americas.
The main steps in the production of cloth are producing the fibre, preparing it, converting it to yarn,
converting yarn to cloth, and then finishing the cloth. The cloth is then taken to the manufacturer
of garments. The preparation of the fibres differs the most, depending on the fibre used. Flax
requires retting and dressing, while wool requires carding and washing.
The spinning and weaving processes are very similar between fibres, however.
Spinning evolved from twisting the fibres by hand, to using a drop spindle, to using a spinning
wheel. Spindles or parts of them have been found in archaeological sites and may represent one of
the first pieces of technology available. They were invented in the Indian subcontinent between 500
and 1000 AD.
Mughalistan

A woman in Dhaka clad in fine Bengali muslin, 18th century.

Up until the 18th century, Mughalistan was the most important center
of manufacturing in international trade. Up until 1750, India produced about 25% of the
world's industrial output. The largest manufacturing industry in Mughalistan (16th to 18th
centuries) was textile manufacturing, particularly cotton textile manufacturing, which included the
production of piece goods, calicos, and muslins, available unbleached and in a variety of colours.
The cotton textile industry was responsible for a large part of the empire's international
trade. Bengal had a 25% share of the global textile trade in the early 18th century. Bengal cotton
textiles were the most important manufactured goods in world trade in the 18th century, consumed
across the world from the Americas to Japan. The most important center of cotton production was
the Bengal Subah province, particularly around its capital city of Dhaka.
Bengal accounted for more than 50% of textiles and around 80% of silks imported by the Dutch
from Asia and marketed it to the world Bengali silk and cotton textiles were exported in large
quantities to Europe, Asia, and Japan, and Bengali muslin textiles from Dhaka were sold in Central
Asia, where they were known as "daka" textiles.[10] Indian textiles dominated the Indian Ocean
trade for centuries, were sold in the Atlantic Ocean trade, and had a 38% share of the West African
trade in the early 18th century, while Bengal calicos were major force in Europe, and Bengal textiles
accounted for 30% of total English trade with Southern Europe in the early 18th century.
In early modern Europe, there was significant demand for textiles from Mughalistan,
including cotton textiles and silk products. European fashion, for example, became increasingly
dependent on Mughalistan textiles and silks. In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, Mughalistan
accounted for 95% of British imports from Asia.
Industrial revolution
The woven fabric portion of the textile industry grew out of the industrial revolution in the 18th
century as mass production of yarn and cloth became a mainstream industry.
In 1734 in Bury, Lancashire, John Kay invented the flying shuttle one of the first of a series of
inventions associated with the cotton woven fabric industry. The flying shuttle increased the width
of cotton cloth and speed of production of a single weaver at a loom .Resistance by workers to the
perceived threat to jobs delayed the widespread introduction of this technology, even though the
higher rate of production generated an increased demand for spun cotton.

Shuttles
In 1761, the Duke of Bridgewater's canal connected Manchester to the coal fields of Worsley and
in 1762, Matthew Boulton opened the Soho Foundry engineering works
in Handsworth, Birmingham. His partnership with Scottish engineer James Watt resulted, in 1775,
in the commercial production of the more efficient Watt steam engine which used a separate
condenser.
In 1764, James Hargreaves is credited as inventor of the spinning jenny which multiplied the spun
thread production capacity of a single worker initially eightfold and subsequently much further.
Others credit the invention to Thomas Highs. Industrial unrest and a failure to patent the invention
until 1770 forced Hargreaves from Blackburn, but his lack of protection of the idea allowed the
concept to be exploited by others. As a result, there were over 20,000 spinning jennies in use by the
time of his death. Also in 1764, Thorp Mill, the first water-powered cotton mill in the world was
constructed at Royton, Lancashire, and was used for carding cotton. With the spinning and weaving
process now mechanized, cotton mills cropped up all over the North West of England.
The stocking frame invented in 1589 for silk became viable when in 1759, Jedidiah introduced an
attachment for the frame which produced what became known as the Derby Rib, that produced a
knit and purl stitch. This allowed stockings to be manufactured in silk and later in cotton. In 1768,
Hammond modified the stocking frame to weave weft-knitted openworks or nets by crossing over
the loops, using a mobile tickler bar- this led in 1781 to Thomas Frost's square net. Cotton had been
too coarse for lace, but by 1805 Houldsworths of Manchester were producing reliable 300 count
cotton thread.
19th century developments
With the Cartwright Loom, the Spinning Mule and the Boulton & Watt steam engine, the pieces
were in place to build a mechanised woven fabric textile industry. From this point there were no
new inventions, but a continuous improvement in technology as the mill-owner strove to reduce
cost and improve quality. Developments in the transport infrastructure; that is the canals and after
1831 the railways facilitated the import of raw materials and export of finished cloth.
Firstly, the use of water power to drive mills was supplemented by steam driven water pumps, and
then superseded completely by the steam engines. For example, Samuel Greg joined his uncle's
firm of textile merchants, and, on taking over the company in 1782, he sought out a site to establish
a mill. Quarry Bank Mill was built on the River Bollin at Styal in Cheshire. It was initially powered
by a water wheel, but installed steam engines in 1810. Quarry Bank Mill in Cheshire still exists as
a well-preserved museum, having been in use from its construction in 1784 until 1959. It also
illustrates how the mill owners exploited child labour, taking orphans from nearby Manchester to
work the cotton. It shows that these children were housed, clothed, fed and provided with some
education. In 1830, the average power of a mill engine was 48 hp, but Quarry Bank mill installed a
new 100 hp water wheel. William Fairbairn addressed the problem of line-shafting and was
responsible for improving the efficiency of the mill. In 1815 he replaced the wooden turning shafts
that drove the machines at 50rpm, to wrought iron shafting working at 250 rpm, these were a third
of the weight of the previous ones and absorbed less power.
A Roberts loom in a weaving shed in 1835. Note the wrought iron shafting, fixed to the cast iron
columns
Secondly, in 1830, using an 1822 patent, Richard Roberts manufactured the first loom with a cast
iron frame, the Roberts Loom. In 1842 James Bullough and William Kenworthy, made
the Lancashire Loom, a semiautomatic power loom: although it is self-acting, it has to be stopped
to recharge empty shuttles. It was the mainstay of the Lancashire cotton industry for a century, until
the Northrop Loom (invented in 1894, with an automatic weft replenishment function) gained
ascendancy.

Roberts self-acting mule with quadrant gearing

Thirdly, also in 1830, Richard Roberts patented the first self-acting mule. Stalybridge mule spinners
strike was in 1824; this stimulated research into the problem of applying power to the winding
stroke of the mule. The draw while spinning had been assisted by power, but the push of the wind
had been done manually by the spinner, the mule could be operated by semiskilled labour. Before
1830, the spinner would operate a partially powered mule with a maximum of 400 spindles; after,
self-acting mules with up to 1300 spindles could be built.

Number of looms in the UK

Year 1803 1820 1829 1833 1857

Looms 2400 14650 55500 100000 250000

The industrial revolution changed the nature of work and society The three key drivers in these
changes were textile manufacturing, iron founding and steam power. The geographical focus of
textile manufacture in Britain was Manchester and the small towns of the Pennines and
southern Lancashire.
Textile production in England peaked in 1926, and as mills were decommissioned, many of the
scrapped mules and looms were bought up and reinstated in India.
20th century

Modern ring spinning frame

Major changes came to the textile industry during the 20th century, with continuing technological
innovations in machinery, synthetic fibre, logistics, and globalization of the business. The business
model that had dominated the industry for centuries was to change radically. Cotton and wool
producers were not the only source for fibres, as chemical companies created new synthetic fibres
that had superior qualities for many uses, such as rayon, invented in 1910, and DuPont's nylon,
invented in 1935 as in inexpensive silk substitute, and used for products ranging from women's
stockings to tooth brushes and military parachutes.
The variety of synthetic fibres used in manufacturing fibre grew steadily throughout the 20th
century. In the 1920s, the computer was invented; in the 1940s, acetate, modacrylic, metal fibres,
and saran were developed; acrylic, polyester, and spandex were introduced in the 1950s. Polyester
became hugely popular in the apparel market, and by the late 1970s, more polyester was sold in the
United States than cotton.
By the late 1980s, the apparel segment was no longer the largest market for fibre products, with
industrial and home furnishings together representing a larger proportion of the fibre
market. Industry integration and global manufacturing led to many small firms closing for good
during the 1970s and 1980s in the United States; during those decades, 95 percent of the looms in
North Carolina, South Carolina and Georgia shut down, and Alabama and Virginia also saw many
factories close.
1.2 ABOUT THE COMPANY
MANYAVAR

The brand started to grow in 2001 by supplying to different Multi-Brand Outlets (MBOs). It
was in 2008 though that the second Exclusive Brand Outlet store was launched as a result of
low real estate prices that were realistic due to economic slowdown. The brand has since

Manyavar

Motto Earn your Respect

Formation 1999

Type Privately Owned

Headquarters Kolkata, India

Leader Ravi Modi

Key people Chief Visualizer: Shilpi Modi (Wife of Ravi Modi)

Parent
Vedant Fashions Pvt. Ltd.
organization

Website www.manyawar.com

opened 2 stores every week on an average. In 2012, the brand launched its 200th store in Delhi
spanning over 21,000 sq. ft.[4] In 2014, it opened its second largest store in Lower Parel,
Mumbai at 16,000 sq. ft.
Manyavar is a men's ethnic wear brand founded by Entrepreneur Ravi Modi in 1999 under
his company Vedant Fashions. It offers Sherwanis, Kurtas, and indo-western wear for men.
The brand started with a 150 sq feet shop in Kolkata and has now expanded to over 350 stores
across 180 cities in India and Abroad.

1.2.1HISTORY

The brand started to grow in 2001 by supplying to different Multi-Brand Outlets (MBOs). It
was in 2008 though that the second Exclusive Brand Outlet store was launched as a result of
low real estate prices that were realistic due to economic slowdown. The brand has since
opened 2 stores every week on an average. In 2012, the brand launched its 200th store in Delhi
spanning over 21,000 sq. ft. In 2014, it opened its second largest store in Lower Parel, Mumbai
at 16,000 sq. ft.

Marketing

Manyavar was a key sponsor of three teams in Indian Premier League: Kolkata Knight Riders,
Delhi Daredevils, Hyderabad Sunrisers. Every season key players from these teams were seen
wearing Manyavar outfits for advertisements. Promotion through IPL has really benefited the
organization in terms of brand awareness.

The brand was also a title sponsor for the Bangladesh football league for the 2014-2015 season.

Philanthropy

Manas, a foundation started by Ravi Modi is a social organization that funds heart surgeries for
the less privileged. The organization also helps run multiple schools through EKAL as well as
supports the tribal community by providing medical and financial relief.

1.2.2 AWARDS AND RECOGNITION

Most Admired Brand of The Year (2015)

'Highest Job Creator' and 'Best Financial Performance' award, ET Bengal Corporate
awards (2015)

'Emerging Leader', CMA Management Excellence for Mr.Ravi Modi, MD at Vendant

Fashions (2015)

ET Bengal Corporate Awards (2014)

Pioneer in Ethnic Retail Business at Asia Retail Congress (2014)

 Fastest Growing Company (2013)

Most Outstanding Performer in Retail Business (East India), EIRS Kolkata (2013)

Asia's young retailer award, for Mr.Ravi Modi at Asia Retail Congress (2012)

Most Admired Mens Indian Wear Brand of the Year at IFF, Mumbai (2012, 2011)

1.2.3 VISION AND MISSION

To share, celebrate and evolve the Manyavar movement. A reflection of Mr. Ravi Modis grit,
a global vision and a nurturing spirit, the creative spark of Mrs. Shilpi Modi, our Chief
Visualizer of merchandise and design, together with sales, production and operation groups
driven by a collective mission: to be an authority in Celebration Wear.Our goal for 2020 is to
have 10,00,000 square feet of Manyavar retail space, 5,00,000 sq. ft. of Mohey retail space,
600 exclusive store including 100 flagship & 50 global stores at 300 cities across India and
abroad. We are aiming for a production capacity of 6 million pieces per annum.

Manyavar envisions leading the category towards a global perspective, beyond cultural and
ethnic sensibilities. This means new sections, new products and new concepts for the world
citizen .

1.2.3 BRAND JOURNEY

It all began in a 1000 square feet office space with Rs.10,000 as capital. Manyavar was
conceptualized in 1999, since then Manyavar has expanded its reach to 170+ cities in India,
U.A.E, Bangladesh, Nepal and U.S.A.
2007-08 saw the launch of an Exclusive Business Outlet format as Manyavar opens its first
EBO outlet outside Kolkata, in Bhubaneshwar.
2010 marked the inauguration of the 100th store in Santa Cruz, Mumbai.
2011 was a highlight with the establishment of Manas Foundation, a non-profit, charitable
organization dedicated to support heart surgeries in children.
In the same year, we crossed borders with the opening of our first international store in Dubai,
followed by Bangladesh.
2012 hit the 200 stores mark. Indias largest EBO was inaugurated in Karol Bagh, New Delhi.
Manyavar collaborates with Indian Premier Leaugue to partner Kolkata Knight Riders. The
years high was the launch of www.manyavar.com
2013 , we extended our reach to more than 100 cities. The 300th store opened in Quest Mall,
Kolkata. Our association with IPL grew stronger with sponsoring Kolkata Knight Riders, Delhi
Daredevils, and Sunrisers Hyderabad.
2014 started on a high with the opening of our 333rd store - the grandest Manyavar store in
Mumbai. We partnered Indian Super League as Associate Sponsors. Our film advertisements
aired across India making us a national brand.
2015 marked the opening of our 400 th store in Hazrathanj, Lucknow
2016 will go down in history with the launch of our Womens Celebration Wear label - Mohey.
Manyavar opened in New Jersey, USA
6 countries, 160 cities, 400+ stores and a new brand in 8 years.
It began as a dream, and the journey continues
Manyavar Creations Private Limited is a wholly owned subsidiary of Vedant Fashions Private
Limited, who owns the brand Manyavar and Mohey.
2016 Images Most Admired Retailer of the Year: Menswear Indian by Images Retail Awards
2016 Effective retail through Supply Chain by Asia Retail Congress
2016 Mr. Ravi Modi awarded Retail Leadership Award,100 Most Influential Retail Leaders by
Asia Retail Congress
2016 Highest Job Creator by ET Bengal Corporate Awards
2015 The Best Brand Of the year, Mens Ethnic Wear by CMAI, Apex
2015 Images Award for Excellence in Supply Chain Management & Fulfillment by Images
Retail Tech Awards 2015
2015 Ravi Modi, Entrepreneur of the Year in Manufacturing Textile Business by Franchise
India
2015 Fastest Growing Retailer by Indian Chamber of Commerce at ICC Retail Awards
2015 Ravi Modi, Bravery and Entrepreneur Award by Parwaz Media Group
2015 National Retailer of the Year, Indian Retail Awards
2015 Most Admired Brand of the year, India Fashion Forum (IFF), Mumbai
2015 Ravi Modi, Emerging Leader by CMA Management Excellence Awards
2015 Best Financial Performance and Highest Job Creator awards by ET Bengal Corporate
Awards
2014 Fastest Growing Company, ET Bengal Corporate Awards
2014 Pioneer in Ethnic Retail Business, Asia Retail Congress
2013 Fastest Growing Company, ET Bengal Corporate Awards
2013 Most Outstanding Performer in Retail Business, East India Retail Summit (EIRS),
Kolkata
2013 Retail Leadership Award to Ravi Modi, Asia Retail Congress
2013 Most Admired Mens Ethnic Wear Brand of the Year, India Fashion Forum (IFF),
Mumbai
2012 Most Admired Retailer of the Year (East India) at East India Retail Summit (EIRS),
Kolkata
2012 Ravi Modi-Youngest Jewel of Rajasthan
2012 Most Admired Indian Wear Brand of the Year, India Fashion Forum (IFF), Mumbai
2012 Ravi Modi, Youngest Retailer of the Year, Asia Retail Congress, Mumbai
2011 Among 100 Best Brands in India (across all categories) by Power Brand, Planman
Marcom, an organisation led by Prof. ArindamChaudhuri. Felicitation in London.
2011 Most Admired Mens Ethnic Wear Brand of the Year, India Fashion Forum (IFF),
Mumbai
2010 Most Admired Ethnic Wear Brand from East India, East India Retail Summit (EIRS),
Kolkata
2009 Critics Choice for Pioneering Effort in Category Creation, India Fashion Forum (IFF),
Mumbai.
2008-2010 Central Icons Award for Iconic Mens ethnic brand by Pantaloons India Ltd.
2004-2008 Central Icons Award for Best Mens ethnic wear Brand at Central Icons