Professional Documents
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ARCHETYPAL ^1
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CONSUMMATION
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THE
ARCHETYPAL CONSUMMATION:
A SYSTEM OF
GARMENT DRAFTING,
Founded upon Practical Experience.
BY
COIiUMBIA, PA.
184S.
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arts and sciences, that the authors of this work take the liber-
ty of presenting to tlieir brethren of the trade in general, the
results of tlieir investigations, researches, and practical labors
in the science of garment cutting. Nevertheless, after having
given the subject that due amount of reflection which it re-
quires, and resting under a (irm conviction that much yet re-
mains undeveloped connected with our beautiful science, they
now appear before the public with the assurance of giving full
eratum with the trade. It has been found in many cases, that
after the shoulder measures and other prooi measures have
been taken with all imaginable care and correctness, there
has been an utter failure in producing the desired effect in the
application thereof, inasmuch as no permanent 'starting point'
pie thing that many flatter themselves it is, and that as thera
are almost as great a variety of forms as there are of counte-
more to be depended
nances, therefore practical results are
upon than any general system nevertheless it may claim
simplicity as its chief merit.
With these remarks, and a desire to have its merits fairly
tested, and in the hope that an impartial and candid fraternity
will give it that consideration which they flatter themselves
it so richly deserves, the "Archetypal Consummation" is
breast to the required height of the neck, and deduct the over-
plus from the full length of the lappell, and note the hallance
in your book. Proceed in the same manner for vests and
roundahouts, that are required to be buttoned up close to the
neck, and also take a measure around the neck for its width.
All other measures, such as sleeve, breast, waist, &c., in the
usual mode.
For vests, take the breast and waist, where there is no coat-
measure taken, and refer to the graduated scale for the meas-
ure by which to cut it.
and along the short arm draw the line X the line X is
also governed more or less by the shoulder measures and
is merely given as a guide. Go out from front of scye on
line C a i for front of the breast, and as much more or less
as your breast measure, fashion, or the peculiar style of
the coat shall dictate. Go up on E from Dai, and lay
the angle of your square at the mark with the short arm
towards you and the outer edge of the long arm at the I
mark on D, and draw the line K this line has also no
:
VARIATIONS OF FOREPART.
If the 1st shoulder measure should be larger or smal-
ler than the 2nd, then go in the I on the
line C from G
11
have, whatever his shape may be. For example : if the front
of the forepart be thrown down very low (as the present fash-
ion favours) it requires less spring than if cut short in front
and vice versa : therefore if your customer is of a straight
form with a prominent chest you will naturally give him a
long lappell if on the other hand, his form is stooped and
:
quired, and you will then be ready to draft your skirt with
some degree of certainty. Proceed as follows; draw the line A
on the edge of cloth, and after having obtained the length re-
quired for the skirt make a mark, then lay character V (up-
per side) at the mark you have made, with the edge of the long
arm of the square on line A and strike the angle B on the
short arm of the square that corresponds in number, to the
one you have previously taken on the under side, whilst the
forepart and back were in a closing position : the line E should
be parallel or nearly so, with B; C is formed by a curved rule
or otherwise the form of the skirt isgoverned by the pre-
12
Trailing customs of the day: the top of line C is about three in-
ches in from the line A, but when the lappell and waist points
are cut long as in the present fashion, the top of the skirt should
be formed as is represented on the drafts of skirts : the V's
13
APPLICATION.
Draw line A No. 2 square B
as represented in the cut ;
14
REMARKS.
As it is almost impossible for an author to be as clearly un-
derstood, or to convey as correct an idea of what he intends,
E and F, and also the top, front, and plaite of skirt as represen-
an 8 and square the line D then with the length you have
:
line D a J
; the line P represents a vest without a roll.
VARIATIONS-
If the customer is stooped or high shouldered, then raise
the line E
and pitch the shoulder more forward 'as repre-
sented on the draft and if he be large around the waist
;
the plate and apply the breast and waist measures neat,
allowing only as much as the seam and turn in require :
then take the length from the J on B to the top of the fore-
part upper point, and sweep the line C go out on C a e: go :
17
22 161
23 171
24 18
25 185
26 19^
27 201
28 21
29 1\\
30 22^
31 23J
32 24
33 245
34 C5i
35 *
263
36 27
37 275
38 . 28J
39 291
40 30
41 305
42 3U
43 321
44 33
45 335
46 341
47 351
18
ted line O the \ of the waist measure, and form the lines I
and H draw the line F about an inch and a half in from
;
J and K.
\ ARIATIONS
The above is for pants with a slash. If, however, you
desire pants with a whole fall, or plaited pants, then let
the line O represent the top, and for the latter omit the
line I, and if necessary add some in width at the top yet
for gaiter bottoms let the foreparts be something less than
a third wide at the bottom, and the hindparts something
more than 3 wide, and shape them accordingly : for straight
pants or those that are shaped to the leg, draw a line at
the knee and form them accordingly to measure.
Those of the craft who may prefer Scott's scales will
strike a \ for line E of hip measure, and 3 and one 24th
for distance across crotch and Ward's or Mahaii's scale,
;
measure and form the back scye, and lines I and J as rep-
resented on the draft, or agreeably to the ruling custom of
the day.
VARIATIONS.
you require a loose sack without a seam in the back
If
then you will omit the line E, and square D, F and G from
A, and shrink the back in along the line A at the waist,
and stretch J a little opposite the shrinking.
- PLATE VDRAFT 11. OF THE FOREPART.
Draw the line A a sufficient distance in from the edge of
cloth to give room for the bottom of the line J, should
the goods be wide enough ; then with your back find the
length of skirt and square C by the dis- B : then square
tance from C to go out on C a 3 and
F on your back:
square D go up on D an I and square E go out on E
: :
coats and sacks ; and, also, the ballance measure should not be
drawn in neat but from 2 to 3, 4 and even 5 inches should be
added to that measure in some cases, according to the particu-
lar style in which the garment may be desired ; for a close
on A the neat length of the cloak and mark ; from the mark
go up a J and square the line B across the cloth : go irom B
a \ and square the line C : go in on B a J and on C a ^ ; angle
D, at what over the size or style of the garment shall indi-
cate ; draft the line F two inches longer at the line 13 than at
Aj and four inches shorter at D than at A j this will give the
^1
draft and take out the gores as marked, which will give the
mantle a better hitch on the shoulders, and cause it to remain
in its place, even when it is not clasped or tied.
CONCLUSION.
The authors cannot dismiss the subject without making a
few general remarks in conclusion, on the indispensible neces-
sity of a proper exercise of taste and judgment in making as
well as in drafting and cutting garments. If a coat even should
be well and 'tastily' cut, itoften happens through the inexperi-
ence or want of a sufficient artistical knowledge on the part
of the maker, that the garment is totally spoiled ; and the ve-
ry effect for which the cutter so long and so laboriously toil-
they make me laugh, but when they are brought in made up,
they make me cry," and there is not the least doubt but that
he had just cause to weep over such a wanton spoliation of
broad cloth. Even a bad cut coat may be improved very
22
two different things, for there are certain effects that are pro-
duced in making alone, which no cutting can reach and, ;
tentions of his " Crook," which in the end will certainly re-
dound to his own credit and will ultimately advance his own
best interests. This result can only be brought about by re
a case we would say "break the bonds that bind two un-
willing hearts together," for it is better nay the best thing
that can be done for both master and man.
TERMS
The price of the System, including books,
system at - - - . - 8 00
8 D 3 2.6
A
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