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In-Process Inspection

In-process inspection means the inspection before they are assembled into a complete
product. In apparel manufacturing, this means inspection at various points in the entire
manufacturing process from spreading fabric to pressing/finishing. In-process inspection
can be performed by either quality control inspectors or individual operators themselves
after they perform their repective jobs.
A well run in-process inspection programme will result in following two advantages:
Reduction of major surprises from the customers due to bad quality.
Decrease in labor cost due to decrease in repair rates

These advantages are because due to in-process inspections:

The operators and supervisors are constantly reminded that the company has a
specific quality level to meet, just by the very presence of inspectors in their
section on a daily basis
Because each worker will realise his/her work is subject to being inspected at any
time throughout the day, therefore the quality of work produced by workers will
improve.
The data obtained can be effectively analyzed and utilized by the production
supervisors and the plant manager in correcting problems or improving quality

I. Marker inspection

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style
that are to be cut from in one spread.
Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a
style, fabric and distribution of sizes Factories those dont have CAD system perform this process
manually. In manual marker making to make an efficient marker one need time, skill and
concentration. Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD systems which give accuracy,
increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers.
Factors which must be checked

It is necessary to check all the parts of trouser pattern which are in marker.
In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked
Pattern direction should be checked
The entire pattern are sated correctly
Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered during marker making.
During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be accurate
During marker making fabric length and width should be considered
Notches and drills marked on trouser pattern as per the picture shown below
Fig. Marker making of Trouser

Enough cutting and sewing allowance is given


Checks and strips should be matched by mittering
Patten Grading Defects

1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification Measurements

Finished trouser will not measure as per the specified dimension and component parts will not
be fitting in relationship to notches, openings and seams such side seams, inseams, waist
measurement, crotch.

2. Distorted Grading

Unbalanced patterns of trouser which would cause twisted seams, puckering, pleating and a
general uneconomical yardage waste.

Marking defects

1. Shaded parts All parts of trouser are included in the same section of the lay

2. pieces not symmetrical Pieces of trouser which are not symmetrical, it is not possible to
sew in with out puckering or pleating

3. Not marked by directional lines Bias marking of the pattern will cause twisting,
puckering, pleating and a general mismatching of trouser component parts.

4. Skimpy Marking If marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern, pattern may moved
after partially marked to fit into space.

5. Notches and Punch Marks Marks which are left out i.e. which are not clearly marked or
misplaced.
6. Marker too wide Parts which are not catch in lay, causing skimpy trouser

7. marker too narrow this type of defects results into wasted material because the pattern
size is marked narrow then the required size.

8. Mismatched plaids Marker did not block the component parts to match the plaids
resulting in mismatched plaids

II. Spreading inspection

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of
the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of
the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained
from the cut order plan.

Factors which must be checked are as follows

1. Fabric Nature Fabric Nature includes the composition, thickness, GSM etc of fabric. It
should be checked and as per the nature of fabric the spreading method should be followed.

For example if cotton shear fabric is used to manufacture trouser then the one way
spreading can be used.

2. Ply alignment The ply should not be distorted, if it does then will lead to wastage of
fabric as well as the distortion in the shape of the trouser.

3. Ply tension Ply tension should be checked as if ply is not having enough tension then it
may lead to creases in the lays which may lead to wastage of fabric after cutting.

4. Grain line If grain line is not matched the laying of pattern may get wrong which indeed
lead to wastage of fabric.
5. shade variation If the trouser parts are not laid in same section of ply then it may lead to
shade variation

6. Fabric Width Fabric width also plays important role in spreading, as fabric width decides
how much trouser parts to be laid in one marker.

7. Static Electricity Synthetic fabrics generate static electricity when two synthetic fabrics
are rub together, thats why it is necessary to have paper in between two plies of synthetic
fabrics.

Spreading Defects
1. Uneven spreading Plies are not laid properly resulting in front or back edge of marker not
catching all plies which leads to wastage of fabric.
2. Narrow Material Rolls of material too narrow to cover marker width will lead to skimpy
trouser.
3. Improper Tension Cloth spread too tight or too loose causing parts of trouser not to fit in
sewing or distorting dimensions of trouser.
4. Mismatching plaids Material spread too loose or too tight causing plaid lines to run
diagonally or bow.
7. Improper matching of face of material Fabric is not spread face down, face up or face to
face as required which results in improper matching of face of material.

III. Cutting Inspection

To cut out pattern pieces of garment components as per exact dimension of the patterns from
a fabric lay is called fabric cutting. The term fabric cutting is only applicable for garments
manufacturing technology.

Cutting Quality Check List:

Pattern to Cutting Trousers Measurement Check.


Fabric diameter Measurement Check.
Cutting Lay Check.
Fabric Roll to Roll Shade Check.
Fabric G.S.M Check.
Bundle Mistake Check.
Size Mistake Check.
Fabric Color Mistake Check.
Yarn contaminated Check.
Any Fabric Problem Check.
Factors/defects which must be checked

Frayed edge if the cutting machine used has blunt knife than there are chances of frayed
edges, therefore it needs to be checked
Fuzzy, ragged or serrated edges if the cutting machines speed is varying then there are
chances of fuzzy edges, speed of the cutting machines needs to be checked
Ply to ply fusion cutting machine produces high heat while cutting, if the synthetic fabric
is being cut then there are chances of fusion
Pattern precision patterns should be in an proper alignment so as to get precision while
cutting.
Notches & drillers notches and drillers should be followed so as to get easy while cutting
and also notches and drills should inspected is it in a proper place and is it properly notched or
drilled.
Cutting Equipment precision cutting machines precision be checked like knife blade,
machine speed, handling of machine.
Cutting Defects

Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members: Attached to, or marked on, wrong
bundles which causes mixing of sizes or land shades.
Drill Marks: Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill used
which lead to wrong cutting
Opening Cutting: Cut above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through entire bundle
which leads to cutting openings.
Improper cutting: Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting knife lean
causing top and bottom ply to be different sizes.
Notches: Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
Oil Spots: Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
Improper Knife Sharpening: Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.
Knife or Scissor Cut: piece damaged by over run in cutting previous piece.
IV. Sorting/Bundling Inspection

It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and bundling is done accurately.

Defects

Not stacked in numerical order: Bundle numbers not in order on rack skid or box.
Matching Linings: Wring size or wrong material.
V. Embroidery Inspection

Embroidery is the surface ornamentation technique. In trouser , for having embossing effect
of the logo of the company it is done. Generally it is one on the welt pocket or near to the side
pocket.

1. Buyer Approved Sample or Artwork Wise Bulk Sample Print & Embroidery Design Check.
2. Size Wise Approved Pattern Placement Check.
3. As per Sample Wise Embroidery Design, Color & Quality Check.
4. Bundle & Size Wise Embroidery Check.
5. Fabric Top Side in Side Check.
6. Embroidery Pattern Placement Check.
7. As Per Sample Wise Embroidery Design, Thread Color Quality Check.
Defects

Mismatch colour of threads


Wrong design
Broken embroidery stitches
VI. Sewing Inspection

After receive the garments components from cutting section, all the garments parts are joined
and sewn as sequentially. Obviously all the components are sewn respects on buyer requirement.

Most large & important section.


Necessary to check all the machine operators work.
Some common faults and problems must be considered.
Sewing defects
Seaming defects
Assembly defects

In trouser manufacturing unit, in each line there are three in line checking operations
basically which are done

1. Checking front
2. Checking back
3. Checking waistband

Quality parameters
Points to be check back part and side seam
1. Align Back waist with pattern
2. Check back position and construction
3. Check dart pocket for pinching and raw edge
4. Check button hole, button places and bartack
5. Check pocket bag and lables
6. Match front and back numbers
7. Check side seam and pocket attaching at side seam
8. Side press should be flat
9. Clean overlock finishing
Points to check in front

1. Mark side seam position


2. Check pleat and pocket opening
3. Check zipper attaching and fly
4. Check pocket construction include pocket bag
5. Match number of all parts
6. Clean overlock finishing
7. Check waist with pattern
Points to check at waistband

1. Check crotch joint and zipper attach should be of two stitches


2. Check loop quality and placement
3. Check waistband attach, puckering, widh of width of waistband to be even, notches should
be matched
4. Check belt closing and belt extension
5. Check hook and eye alignment
6. Check fly and both fly top stitch
7. Check back seam, gripper, waist measurement and size label.
End line inspection

1. Style wise Trousers check.


2. All measurement check.
3. Front Part, Back Part, waist band alignment check.
4. S.P.I Check for All Process.
5. Embroidery Placement Check.
6. Main Label, Care Label, Size Label &Care Symbol Check.
7. Size Mistake Check.
8. All Process Alter Check.
9. Any Fabric Fault /Rejection Check.
Stitching Defects

Needle damage
Skipped stitch
Thread breaks
Seam pucker
Wrong stitch density
Uneven stitch
Staggered stitch
Improperly formed stitch
Seaming Defects :

Uneven width
Fault stitch line
Twisting
Check or strip matching
Seam matching
Wrong stitch face side or back side
Thread color shade variation
Most commonly occuring seaming defects are as follows-
1. Restitched Seams / Broken Stitches

Fig.: Restitched Seams / Broken Stitches

Description :
Where a two trouser parts are stitched,on face of the trouser there will be stitchline with
broken stitches. If this occurs on Topstitching, then the sem does not appear to be 1st quality
merchandise,

Caused-

1) Thread breaks or thread run-out during sewing

Solution

1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread
designed to minimize sewing interruptions.
2) Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments
3) Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and
sewing operation, (See Machine Maintenance Checklist)
4) Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques

2). Open Seam Seam Failure Stich

Fig. : Open Seam- Seam Failure- Stitch

Description -

Where the threads in the seam have ruptured leaving a hole in the stitch line,

Caused by -

1) Inadequate thread strenght for seam

2) Not enough stitches per inch

Solution

1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread
designed to give greater seam performance,
2) Use the proper ticket number thread for the stitching.
3. Excessive Seam Puckering Wovens

Fig.: Excessive Seam Puckering - Wovens


Description :

When the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitchline

Caused:

1) Feed puckering where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during
sewing

2) Tension Puckering where the thread has ben stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread
then causes the seam to drow back and pucker

3) Yarn displacement or structural jamming caused by sewing seams with too large of thread
taht causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced, giving a puckered appearance

Solution

1) Use the correct thread type and size for the fabric, In many cases, a smaller, higher tenacity
thread is required to minimize seam puckering but maintain seam strength
2) Sew with minimum sewing tension to get a balanced stich
3) Make sure machines are set up properly for the fabric being sewn;
4) Check for proper operator handling techniques
Assembly Defects:

Finished component of not accurate size.


Trouser not accurate in size.
Component of trouser is not joining in right place..
If parts direction is wrong.
Final Inspection

Before final inspection there has no chance to check complete Trouser. It is important from
the buye

to finally check. In final inspection normally Trouser size, form fitting, fabric faults are check.

Finishing Quality Check List:

As Per Buyer Requirement Wise Iron Check.


Buyer Approved Sample Wise Style Check.
Front Part, Back part check.
Embroidery Quality & Placement Check.
All process S.P.I check.
Oil Spot/Dirty Spot Check.
Main Label Care label & Care Symbol Check.
Any Fabric Fault & Fabric Reject Check.
All process Measurement Check.
Blister Poly & After Poly Getup Check.
Hang tag & Price Sticker Check.
Assortment Every Carton Pcs Quantity Check.
Buyer Requirement Wise Carton Size, Poly Size, & trouser Size Check.
Pressing or finishing defects

Fabric burn or burn spot attach with body.


Color shading occurs because of hot ironing.
Button is insecure or broken.
Trouser folding in-accurately.
Trouser shape is in-accurate
"Stains, Wrinkles, Incorrect labels, Any thing that detracts from overall appearance of
trouser"
Folding defects

Trouser is not folded as per the specification


Trouser is not folded with proper material like cardboard, tissues or other material.
Trouser is having Incorrect pines or folds
Trouser not buttoned properly
Trousers label is not showing
Finishing 100% check-in:

It is the process of value addition / Improvisation on the trouser and making it presentable
visually to satisfy the customers perspective of Good Quality and Appearance. The following
processes constitute the Finishing department:

Inside Checking & Quality Checking- long threads should be cut out
Thread Trimming No extra or loose thread should be visible in and out of the trouser
Top Side Checking, Measurement and Quality Checking all measurements should be
complained as per tech pack given by buyer
Ironing for getting good appearance and form for the trouser, ironing is required
Attaching Finishing and Packing Trims after ironing the extra care labels which needs to
be attached as per the tech pack should are checked
Packing after all procedures are done, the packing needs to be as per the tech pack given
by buyer and inserted in the carton box which are also specified by buyer in tech pack.

AQL Chart
The acceptable quality limit (AQL) is the worst tolerable process average (mean) in
percentage or ratio that is still considered acceptable; that is, it is at an acceptable
quality level. Closely related terms are the rejectable quality limit and rejectable
quality level (RQL).

Fig. : AQL Chart

This chart is a tool provided to help determine the sample lot. The effectiveness and
efficiency of a quality audit largely depend upon proper audit execution.
This means:

1. Correct selection of sampling lot.

2. Good random sample pick-up.

3. Accurate classification of defects.

Buyer Quality Assurance person visits the manufacturing unit for inspection. Generally AQL
chart is used for the inspection of trousers. 2.5 level is followed as a AQL level. In this 2.5 level, as
per the chart given, the amount of trousers inspected, if the rejected pieces are more than the
respective rejected column then the whole lot is rejected and whole lot comes back for rework and
100% inspection is followed.

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