Industrial Attachment

On
Beximco Denim Limited
Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

Academic Supervisor-

Nasif Chowdhuary
Senior Lecture
Department of Fabric Manufacturing Technology
City University Bangladesh

Submitted By-

Ashis Biswas
ID: 13334410
Batch: 25th
E-mail: ashisbiswas056@gmail.com
City University Bangladesh

18 October, 2017

City University ASHIS BISWAS

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 Industrial Attachment

The result submitted in this report is entirely of my own

Investigations.

Industrial Supervisor

Mr. Muhammad Jawad Hussain Bistami

General Manager
Washing plant and Denim
Beximco Industrial Park, Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

I would like to thank BEXIMCO DENIM LDT. for giving me the opportunity to undergo
training in the textile department and for extending their support towards me all
throughout my internship.

I would also like to thank City University for giving me this opportunity and facilitating my
internship.

It was a great learning experience throughout to see one of the most well planned
and advanced textile units. I take the opportunity to thank all the people who guided me
through the entire process and made me training a success by sharing their knowledge.

I would like to thank Goutam Biswas, Deputy General Manager H.R. at Beximco ,
without whose support and guidance the internship couldnt have been completed
satisfactorily.

I am also grateful to my university mentor Mr. Nasif Chowdhuary for guiding me at every
stage and making this project a success.

I am also grateful to the supervisors, technicians, operators and all other staffs of
Bximco Denim Ltd. who were most cordial and helpful to me during the internship.

Finally, I would like to express a sense of gratitude to my beloved parents and friends
for their mental support, strength and assistance throughout writing the training report.

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EXECUCTIVE SUMMARY:

Textile technology education is based on industrial ground. Theoretical background is

not sufficient so, industrial training is an essential part of study to make a technologist
technically sound in this field. Industrial training provides us that opportunity to
gather practical knowledge.

This report is titled Report on Industrial Attachment at Beximco Denim Ltd. Industrial
attachment is an essential part of four years B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course of City
University. I have the opportunity to perform the industrial attachment with Beximco
Denim Ltd. During 2 Months long attachment, I study the Man, Machine, Material and
Planning, Production, Grey Fabric Inspection, Finished Fabric Inspection, According to
our studies in the whole chain of the Beximco Denim factory. I have prepared the
following report and would like to present as my internship report. B.Sc. in Textile
Engineering is the combination of theoretical knowledge and the practical experiences.
The industrial attachment is the most effective process of achieving the practical
experiences. My approach was to know and work with all the parameters of each
section and practice with technical experts. As my academic advance study was in
Fabric Manufacturing Technology my emphasis was in understanding and learning of
weaving.

The main objective of this training is to comprehend our theoretical knowledge along
with the practical knowledge. It also enabled me to orient my selves with the practical
environment which is my place of future work.

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 Table of contents
Subjects Pages
Acknowledgement----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3
Executive summary -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4
Chapter One 9
1.1 Introduction-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
1.2 Objectives of the study ----------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
1.3 Methodology------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10
1.4 Scopes-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
1.5 Limitations---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11
Chapter Two 12
2.1 Company Profile------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 13
2.2 Owners of the Factory------------------------------------------------------------------------ 13
2.3 History of Beximco Group------------------------------------------------------------------- 14
2.4 Work-Time Schedule of Beximco Denim Ltd------------------------------------------- 14
2.5 Layout of Beximco----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15
2.6 Different Department of Beximco Textile Devision------------------------------------ 15
2.7Mission-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15
2.8 Vision--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
2.9 List of Buyers----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16
17
2.10 Kinds of Products ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chapter Three 19
3.1 Organogram of Beximco--------------------------------------------------------------------- 20
3.2 Organogram of Beximco Denim----------------------------------------------------------- 20
3.3 Organogram of Denims Officer------------------------------------------------------------ 21
3.4 Manpower Management -------------------------------------------------------------------- 21
Chapter Four 22
4.1 What is Fabric?-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23
4.2 Peculiarity of Denim-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23
4.3 Denim Fabric----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23
4.4 Where did the name Denim comes from?--------------------------------------------- 23
4.5 Flowchart of Denim Process---------------------------------------------------------------- 24
4.6 Common Yarn Sizes for Denim------------------------------------------------------------ 24
4.7 Structured Denim Yarns--------------------------------------------------------------------- 24
Chapter Five 25
5.1 Yarn Quality------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26
5.2 Yarn Spinning Systems---------------------------------------------------------------------- 26
5.3 Structure of Denim Yarn---------------------------------------------------------------------- 26
5.4 Types of Yarn used at Beximco Denim---------------------------------------------------- 27
5.5 Yarn Count used at Beximco Denim------------------------------------------------------- 27
5.6 Yarn Godown---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27
5.7 Yarn Suppliers---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27

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 Chapter Six 28
6.1 Warping-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29
6.2 Importance of Warping---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29
6.3 Important requirements of Warping---------------------------------------------------------- 29
6.4 Types of Warping----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29
6.5 Procedure of Warping------------------------------------------------------------------------ 29
6.5 Flowchart of Warping------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30
6.7Creel----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30
6.8 Warping at Beximco Denim----------------------------------------------------------------- 31
6.9 Machine Specifications of warping machine in Beximco Denims Ltd------------ 31
Chapter Seven 32
7.1 Dyeing ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
5.2 Objects of Dyeing------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
7.3 Theory of Dyeing------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
7.4 Denim Dyeing Process--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
7.5 Slasher Dyeing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 33
7.6 Dyeing of Slasher Dyeing machine------------------------------------------------------- 34
7.6.1 Pure Indigo------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 34
7.6.2 Topping --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35
7.6.3 Bottoming---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 35
7.7 Equipments used in dyeing lab------------------------------------------------------------ 35
7.8 Sizing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36
7.9 Objects of Sizing------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36
7.10 Types of Sizing------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36
7.10.1 Chemical Used For Sizing-------------------------------------------------------------- 36
36
7.10.2 Sizing Ingredients------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36
7.10.3 Briefly describe the continuous slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing m/c------- 36
7.10.3.1 Creel section----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37
7.10.3.2 Benlink------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37
7.10.3.3 Accumulator------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 37
7.10.3.4 Pre treatment----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37
7.10.3.4 Pre-Washing----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 37
7.10.3.5 Dyeing-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
7.10.3.6 Drying Zone------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
7.10.3.7Accumulator------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
7.10.3.8 Sizing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
7.10.3.8 Drying Zone------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 38
7.10.3.9 Accumulator------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 38
7.10.4.1 Leasing Zone---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 38
7.10.4.2 Expansion Comb------------------------------------------------------------------------ 39
7.10.4.3 Beaming----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 39
7.10.4.4 Transportation of Beams-------------------------------------------------------------- 39
7.10.5 Machine specifications of dyeing & sizing m/c in Beximco Denim------------ 39

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 Chapter Eight 40
8.1 Weaving-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 41
8.2 Flow Chart of Weaving Process------------------------------------------------------------- 41
8.3 Basic Weave Designs------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 41
8.3.1 Plain Weave---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
8.3.2 Twill Weave---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 42
8.4 Classification of Modern Weaving Machines------------------------------------------------ 43
8.5 Air-Jet Weaving-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 43
8.6 Weaving in Beximco Denim----------------------------------------------------------------- 43
8.7 Looming Process------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44
8.7.2 Tying-In---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44
8.7.1 Drawing-In------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44
8.8 Basic Motion------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 44
8.8.1 Primary Motions---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 44
8.8.1.1 Shedding Mechanism------------------------------------------------------------------- 45
8.8.1.2 Picking Mechanism---------------------------------------------------------------------- 45
8.8.1.2.1 Warp Yarn Path Diagram------------------------------------------------------------ 45
8.8.1.2.2 Weft Yarn Path Diagram------------------------------------------------------------- 45
8.8.1.3 Beat Up Mechanism--------------------------------------------------------------------- 45
8.8.2 Secondary Mechanisms------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.2.1 Take-up motion--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.2.2 Let-off motion----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.3 Tertiary Mechanisms---------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.3.1 Weft stop motion------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.3.2Warp stop motion------------------------------------------------------------------------- 46
8.8.3.3 Brake---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 47
8.8.4 Working of Air jet Loom------------------------------------------------------------------- 47
8.8.5 Total No. of Looms at Beximco Denim------------------------------------------------ 47
Chapter Nine 48
9.1 Finishing----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 49
9.2 Objects of Finishing------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 49
9.3 Types of finishing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 49
9.4 Finishing at Beximco Denim Ltd----------------------------------------------------------- 49
9.5 Flow Process Chart for Denim Finish Line---------------------------------------------- 50
9.6 Briefly Describe The Process Sequence of Denim Finish Line-------------------- 53
9.6.1 J-Box------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
9.6.2 Brushing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
9.6.3 Singeing--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
9.6.4 Softening-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
9.6.5 Skewness Control--------------------------------------------------------------------------- 53
9.6.6 Dryer-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 54
9.6.7 Sanforizing------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 54
9.6.8 Calendaring----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 54
9.6.9 Mercerization--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 54
9.6 Finishing section of Beximco Denim Ltd------------------------------------------------- 54

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 Chapter Ten 55
10.1 Inspection Process-------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56
10.2 Four (4) Point System---------------------------------------------------------------------- 56
10.3 Procedure of Four-Point System--------------------------------------------------------- 56
10.4 Inspection at Beximco Denim Ltd.-------------------------------------------------------- 56
Chapter Eleven 57
11.1 R & D Department in Beximco Denim ------------------------------------------------- 58
11.2 Procedure of R&D at Beximco Denim Ltd--------------------------------------------- 58
11.3 Different Equipments in R&D at Beximco Denim Ltd------------------------------- 59
11.4 Developed Samples------------------------------------------------------------------------- 59
Chapter Twelve 60
12 Conclusion--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 60

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1.1 INTRODUCTION:

Internship is the mandatory for all Textile students to fulfill his Bachelor Degree because
it gives first and experience of the complexities of practical life. As a result it benefits the
students to relate my acquired knowledge with practical job life. The prime objective of
the internship program is to work under organizational environment so that, I can turn
up ourselves as professionals with practical experience and can get a opportunity to
reconcile the theoretical knowledge with real life situation. The technical education &
practical experience is the most important as well as the theoretical knowledge. I got
opportunity to do my internship at Beximco. Beximco is one of the largest and highest
GDP contribution group in Bangladesh. Beximco Textile Ltd. is a truly integrated
undertaking. The textile division has the capability to offer a complete product range for the
Export& domestic textile market. The goal of textile division is to become the preferred partner for
high quality fabric& clothing from Bangladesh with high advance technology& an emphasis on
developing local human resource. Textile division has a potential to make and important
contribution to the nations growing readymade garments export sector.The main object of this
project is to acquire knowledge about weaving& present condition of weaving market in
Bangladesh. It also enables me to orient ourselves with the partial environment that wills works in
future. I systematically learned about various steps of fabric process& market.

1.2 Objectives of the study :

The main objectives of the project/internship were:

Understanding basic principles of production of textiles.

In depth study and understanding of all process involved in textile production and
the machinery and equipment used.
Knowledge about the company.
Understanding the companys process flow in production.
Study the work environment and practices followed for textile production.
Asses the faults and critical factors of production and determine the practices
adopted by Beximco.
To know detail about spinning, knitting, dyeing.

1.3 Methodology:

Methodology means how I go through all the processes of report. Here, Includes the
steps of conducting the report and explanation of the sources.

To collect information during my internship which I was saw.

To collect information about machine during my internship.
To get all over idea about Beximco form annual report.
To get more information about Beximco form internet.
To get idea how to make report form class lecture.

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1.4 Scopes:

The scope are given bellow-

I collect some information from various books and relevant papers which are
related to denim factory.
I get help of some of my senior university brothers.
Internet.
Factorys layout.
Discussion.

1.5 Limitations:

Limitation means the obstacles. I have to face to completing my internship report. Some
of limitations are given bellow-

Lack of time.
Shot time visit within different section/unit.
Lack of organization chain command.
Lack of instruction form my university.

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2.1 Company Profile:

BEXIMCO Group is the largest private sector industrial conglomerate in Bangladesh

engaged in diverse business areas. BEXIMCO comprises of five publicly listed
companies and sixteen private companies. Beximco is the most modern composite mill
in Bangladesh . Beximco textile division is a fully integrated manufacturer of cotton and
polyester blended garments for man, women, children and both domestic and export
markets. Beximco is also largest exporter of pharmaceutical in Bangladesh near about
45 countries. The group is also largest ceramics exporter and has an investment in
Airlines, in unique resorts etc. They have a mission of taking Bangladesh to the world.

FACTORY NAME: Beximco Denim Limited (BDL)

Hotels and

2.1-Owners of the Factory:

A S F Rahman, Chairman.
Salman F Rahman, Vice Chairman.
M A Qasem, Director.
A B Siddiqur Rahman, Director.

LOCATION: Beximco Industrial Park, Chokroborty, (5 km north from DEPZ)

OPERATIONAL HQ

Beximco Textiles Limited, Beximco Industrial Park,

Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur.

CORPORATE HQ

17 Dhanmondi R/A, Road No. 2

Dhaka -1205, Bangladesh
Phone: 880-2-8611891-5, 8618220-7,9677701-5, 7701165
E-mail: beximchq@bextex.net
Web Sit:beximco.org

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2.3 History of Beximco Group:
To describe the history of Beximco Ltd. we would like to clarify the
establishment of Beximco Group

1965-1975 Beximco was born

1965 New Dacca Industries Ltd.-Jute yarn Manufacturer, founded by Late Fazlur
Rahman.
1972 Bangladesh Export Import Co.-Private STAs & International Trading.
1973 Beximco U.K. Branch.
1976-1989 Beximco Diversifies
1978 Beximco Foods Ltd.-Marine Food processing & Export
1979 Beximco Pharmaceuticals Ltd. Pharmaceuticals Drug Formulation
&Marketing
1980 Beximco Fisheries Ltd. - Shimp Farming & Export
1982 Expansion of jute Yarn Manufacturing-Shinepukur JuteSpinners Ltd.
1984 Beximco Computers Ltd.-Exclusive Dealers in IBM Computers & Soft-
ware Development
1985 Beximco Apparels Ltd.-Garments Manufacturer& Export
1990 -1995 Beximco Expands
1990 Padma Textile Mills Ltd. (Phase i)
1991 Beximco Infusion Ltd.
1992 Beximco Synthetics Ltd.
1992 Padma Textile Mills Ltd. (Phase ii)
1995 Padma Textile Mills Ltd. (phase iii)
1996-1999 Beximco Preparing for the New Millennium
1996 Beximco Textiles Ltd.Beximco Knitting Ltd.Beximco Denims Ltd.
1998 Beximco Fashions Ltd.
1999 Shinepukur Ceramic Ltd.

2.4 Work-Time Schedule of Beximco Denim Ltd :

The Factory Runs 24 Hour A Day. It Maintains A Tight Work Schedule.
Section Number of Shift Duration
Warping 3 8 hours each
Dyeing 3 8 hours each
Weaving 3 8 hours each
Finishing 3 8 hours each
Utility 3 8 hours each
Security 3 8 hours each
Stuff General Shift 9 a.m. 5 p.m.
&Commercial
Top Management General Shift 9 a.m. 5 p.m.
p.m.
5pp.m.

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2.5 Layout of Beximco:

2.6 Different Department of Beximco Textile Devision:

A) Production Oriented Department:
Yarn dyeing
Woven fabric pretreatment, dyeing and finishing
Knitting
Denims
Garments
Quality assurance
Maintenance
-Utility
-Finishing
-Quality control
B) Supporting department:
Personnel administration
Procurement
Marketing
HRD
Finance & Accounting

2.7 Mission:
BEX TEX Ltd. is a full service vendor with strong vertically integrated production

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facilities as well as creative & analytical capabilities which clearly set us apart from
most other South Asian vendors. Each of their activities must benefit and add value to
the Common wealth of our Society. We firmly believe that, in the final analysis we are
Accountable to each of the Constituents with whom we interact; namely: our
Employees, our valued Customers, our suppliers, our business associates, our
Shareholders and our fellow Citizens.

2.8 Vision:
Gain market leadership in high value added apparel in USA & Europe.
Use Innovation & Speed as prime drivers, rather than cotton & cheap labor.
Dominate these markets in high quality: Mens, Womens, Children dresses.
Shirts (formal & Casual).
Blouses (formal & casual), Skirts, Jackets.
Jeans & Casual non denim bottoms.
Knitted tops & bottom

2.9 List of Buyers:

Springfield VAN Heusen Calvin Klein

DKNY Zara J.C. Penny

Next IZOD Arizona

H&M Geoffory Beene St. Johns Bay

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 Mother Care Arrow J. Ferrar

Bershka Kenneth Cole Reaction Decree

2.10 Kinds of Products:

Yarn Products :
Count : Ranging from 6 120
Fiber : Cotton ( super combed, combed, carded)
CVC : 60% cotton, 40% polyester
TC : 65% polyester-35% cotton; Lyocell,Tencel, Modal, Rayon, Viscose etc.

Knit Products:
Rib : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Jacquard : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Jersey : In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC, CVS/TC, and Lycra mix
Bubble Knit : In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC and CVS/TC
Polo Pique : In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC and CVS/TC
Back Pique : In 100% Combed Cotton, CVC and CVS/TC
Herringbone : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Engineering Stripe : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Feeder Stripe : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Popcorn : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Crepe : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC
Auto Stripe : In 100% Combed Cotton and CVS/TC

Denim Products:
Chambray : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4oz to 5.5oz/Yd2
Denim (blue) : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2
Denim (black) : In sulfur black colors ranging from 4oz to 15oz/ Yd2
Colored Denim : In a variety of colors - both in sulfur & reactive dyes(warp)
Over dyed Denim : In a variety of colors on indigo blue & sulfur black

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 Bull Denim : In a variety of reactive colors ranging from 10oz to 13oz/Yd2
Stretch Denim : In classic indigo colors ranging from 4.5 oz to 13.75 oz/Yd2

Fabric Products:
Solid Dyed Yarn Dyed Finishing
Poplins Ginghams Wrinkle Free
Twills Stripes Easy Care
Dobbies Fil-a-fils/End-on- Peach
Oxfords ends Chintz
Seersuckers Chambrays Paper Touch
Canvas Seersuckers Teflon Coated
Ribstops in 100% Pinpoint Water Repellent
Combed Cotton Oxfords Water Resistance
CVC and CVS/TC Dobbies Rubberized
Stretch Plaids in 100%

Special Yarn Products:

Plied Yarn
Fancy Yarn
Slub Yarn (7's to 20's)
Lycra (10's to 40's)
Spandex Yarn
Core Spun Yarn
Multi count Yarn
Multi Twist Yarn

Unique Wrinkle-Free product:

CORTEK-2000
Embedded filament core, which makes it permanently wrinkle-free. No resins or
chemicals are used making the fabric ecologically friendly as well as highly durable.The
technology provides the soft, natural comfort of cotton and the wrinkle-free convenience
and strength of synthetic fibre.Beximco is the manufacturer and exclusive licensee in
bangladesh of Cortex-2000, USA.
COTRA DP 3.5 +
This is a 100% cotton fabric, which is chemically, treated in a hi-tech precure process
which is safe, clean and ecologically friendly. The result achieved meets a durable
press rating of dp 3.5+ (aatcc - 124).Previously, this result could only be achieved by
ammonia processing which is rapidly becoming obsolete, as it is hazardous to health
and environment. Beximco is the manufacturer and exclusive licensee in bangladesh of
Cotra dp 3.5 +, USA.

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3.1 Organogram of Beximco

3.2 Organogram of Beximco Denim

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3.3 Organogram of Denims Officer:

3.4 Manpower Management (warping, dyeing & sizing, weaving and

Finishing):
Manpower
Management:

Section In charge

Production Officer

Technician
(Mechanical/Elect
rical)

Senior Operator

Operator

Helper

Cleaner

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4.1 What is Fabric?

Fabric is a flexible planar substance constructed from solutions, fibres, yarns or

fabrics, in any combination. Textile fabrics can be produced directly from webs of
fibres by bonding, fusing or interlocking to make non-woven fabrics and felts, but their
physical properties tend to restrict their potential end-usage.The word "textile" comes
from the Latin "texere", "to weave." It originally meant a fabric made from woven fibers.
Today, the word "textile" includes fabrics produced by felting, weaving, knitting, and
knotting fibers.

4.2 Peculiarity of Denim:

Denim is made from Indigo dye, a vat dye, which is attached to cotton fabric in loosely
held form in layers .When washed, it fades differentially, which gives its characteristic
washed down appearance.

4.3 Denim Fabric:

Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile in which the weft passes under two or more warp
fibers. denim fabric are 3/1 warp- faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp and an
un dyed weft yarn. Traditionally, the warp yarn is indigo dyed. Normally dyed & grey ring
or open- end yarns are used in warp & weft respectively. Traditionally speaking, the
warp yarn is indigo dyed . Now a days Indigo, Sulphur black, Blue black (dyed both in
black & indigo color) & various Colored denim in both stretch & non stretch form are
widely used worldwide. Denim is a very versatile fabric, and is very popular for a variety
of shade, looking & hand feel on same fabric for different types of wash. Actually wash
is known as ornament for Denim fabric.

4.4 Where did the name Denim comes from?

The term Denim comes from the city of Nimes in France where serge de Nimes was
manufactured. In manufacturing process of denim, Denim fabric is dyed by Vat or Indigo
dye. The term Jeans came from the cotton workpants worn by sailors in Italy, who
were known as Genes.

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4.5 Flowchart of Denim Process:

4.6 Common Yarn Sizes for Denim:

Warp yarns for bottom weight jeans typically range in size from Ne 4.0 to Ne 12.5/1.
Finer yarns are used for lighter weight chambray shirting fabrics and lighter weight
jeans, vests, dresses, and skirts. These yarns may range in count from Ne 12.5 to Ne
30.0.

4.7 Structured Denim Yarns:

Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end machines can be installed with devices that
can manufacture predetermined yarn effects. These effects can vary from slubs (thick
places) with different lengths, different spacing between slubs, or variations in the yarn
count.

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5.1 Yarn Quality:

In order to produce good quality denim, the yarn quality used for denim production
should be optimal. In slasher dyeing machine the passage of yarn is very long. Hence
it is necessary to control the lapping of yarn in the passage of yarn,otherwise bands of
high and low densities will be formed in the yarn, which ultimately cause shade variation
in the fabric. This leads huge loss of fabric. The yarn should be free of weak place, to
avoid any breakages during dyeing. Denim is a contrast fabric made of indigo blue warp
and grey weft yarn. The weft yarn hairiness should be low, otherwise high yarn
hairiness and major variation in yarn hairiness shown weft bands which is a major fabric
defects.

The quality criteria of carded OE or ring spun yarns used for denim production
are as follows:
Minimum staple length:2.7cm
Short fibers proportion (less than 12 mm
long) should bounder 40%,
Micronaire value should be 4.0 -4.5,
Low yarn hairiness, low nippiness
Good yarn strength and uniformity.

In the early 1990s, the majority of yarns used in

denim production were OE yarns. However,
recently, there is a strong demand of using more
carded ring spun yarns in both warp and weft, which
gives the fabric a softer handle.

5.2 Yarn Spinning Systems:

All denim yarns were ring spun. Today, denim fabrics have different combinations of
ring and open-end yarns. When you hear a term such as ring/ring, open end /open end
(OE/OE), and ring/OE, it is referring to which yarn is in the warp and which yarn is in
the filling, respectively .For example, ring/OE indicates a ring-spun warp yarn and an
open-end filling yarn. Weaving a combination of ring-spun and open-end yarns can help
to reduce fabric costs while still maintaining some favorable ring-spun fabric
characteristics.

5.3 Structure of Denim Yarn:

Modern ring-spinning frames and open-end machines can be installed with

devices that can manufacture predetermined yarn effects. These effects
can vary from slubs (thick places) with different lengths, different spacing
between slubs, or variations in the yarn count.

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 Figure-
5.4 Types of Yarn used at Beximco Denim:

Rotor yarn
Ring yarn
Slub yarn
Polyester
Lycra yarn

5.5 Yarn Count used at Beximco Denim:

For warp : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 30 (Slub +Normal)

For weft : 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16, 20, 30 (Slub +Normal)
Polyester : 300D,600D
Lycra : 10L40D, 16L40D, 200L40D,300DL40D

5.6 Yarn Godown:

1. BEXMCO has large spinning unit so they produces different types of raw yarn.
2. Then they are keep the different types of raw yarn in stored house at beximco
industrial park.
3. Housekeeping & moisture control is necessary in this department.
4. Mostly bag is of 100lb, for poly & rigid yarn sizes vary because of spinning & for
cotton, slub & garden yarn sizes remains same.
5. Cone sizes are different for eg. 6.25lb ,6.18lb ,4.65lb etc

5.7 Yarn Suppliers:

Martin spinning mills ltd. Gazipur.

Nishat spinning mills ltd. Pakistan.
Mahmud textile ltd. Pakistan.

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6.1 Warping :

The parallel winding of warp ends from many winding packages (cone, cheese) on to a
common package (warp beam) is called warping.

6.2 Importance of Warping :

Construction of a beam of warp yarn.

Construction of a parallel yarn sheet.
Modifying the faults of yarn like thick or thin place.
Winding the pre- determined length of yarn.
Combination of small packages.

6.3 Important requirements of Warping :

The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all
the time of with drawl from the supply package.
Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of yarn.
Predetermined length should be observed.
Production rate should be high as possible.

6.4 Types of Warping:

1. High Speed Warping (Direct Warping).

2. Sectional Warping (Indirect Warping).
3. Ball Warping (Used for Denim Fabrics).
4. Draw Warping (Heat Set).

6.5 Procedure of Warping:

The creel stand has maximum capacity of five cones per stand. The yarn from the
cones is unwounded and passes from rod by cross wound, holed by a catcher guided to
the tensioning zone when cone rotates anticlockwise. There are three types of tension
in warping i.e. catcher tension, rod tension, and sacker tension. Then the yarn comes to
the winding zone or headstock. Comb straighten the yarns towards pressure drum,
which supports beam, and yarns in an alignment so that each and every yarn end can
wound separately. Static charges due to friction of yarns on

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 Figure- warping
metal surface cause static charges, which are removed through an antistatic device.
Then the yarn is wounded on beam in this way for a required length if beam is changed
after one filling of beam then knotting of yarns is made. Similarly if cones are finished on
one frame side then trolley system of cone changing is used in this way chains rotates
the whole frame of empty side and new filled side of frame is for warded again knotting
is done between the new cones yarn and already winded yarn. Extra yarn is then
removed through cutting. Sensors sense any type of yarn breakage and in case of yarn
breakage knotting is done.

6.6 Flowchart of Warping:

Cone form
winding

Creeling

Controling

Reed

Measuring device

Winding on beam

6.7 Creel:

Creel holds many yarn cones at warping machine. The creel is different types like H-
shape, V-shape, line etc. but Beximco is used the H-shape, V-shape creel arrangement
system for ball warping.

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 Figure- Creel
6.8 Warping at Beximco Denim:

The warping section of the Beximco Denim Ltd. is working under the Supervisor of
warping Section. Benninger and west point warping machine with respectively V-
shape, H-shape Creels are used here. The department is connected with dyeing
section directly and working 24 hrs. R&D department inspects the cones which is
converted in beams of required length and forwarded to dyeing section.

6.9 Machine Specifications of warping machine in Beximco Denims Ltd.:

Machine manufacturer West Point

Origin Georgia, USA
Creel type Magazine creel
Creel capacity Maxm 434 packages & Minm 317 packages
Tensioning method Disk & plate
Rpm Maxm 800 & Minm 300
Year of installation 1996

Machine manufacturer Benninger

Origin Germany
Creel type V-shape creel
Creel capacity Maxm 1120 packages & Minm 315 packages
Tensioning method Tension guide
Rpm Maxm 800 & Minm 300
Year of installation N/A

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7.1 Dyeing :

The process by which a textile material is to be changed physically or chemically, so

that it looks mono uniform colored is called dyeing. All commercial textile dyeing
processes take place by the application of a solution or a dispersion of the dyes to the
textile material followed by some type of fixation process. The dye solution or
dispersion is almost always in an aqueous medium. A major objective of the fixation
step is normally to ensure that the coloured textile exhibits satisfactory fastness to
subsequent treatment in aqueous wash liquors. Dyeing is mainly depends on the type
of fabric, structure of fabric and the properties of dyes.

7.2 Objects of Dyeing :

The textile goods are dyed uniformly with single color.

To increase the attractiveness of the textile goods.
To make the fabric suitable for various usage.
To make the textile goods suitable for decorative purposes.

7.3 Theory of Dyeing :

The procedure by which dye stuff enters into the textile goods is called theory of
dyeing. It is essential to have certain degree of fastness properties when a dye
particle is applied on textile goods. The whole process of dyeing is completed by four
steps as follows:
Dye molecules come to the fabric surface from the dye bath.
Fibre absorbs the dye molecule from the outer surface of the fibre to the internal
surface of the cellulose.
Migrates the dye molecules everywhere of the fiber molecules.
Anchoring or fixing the dye molecules to the fiber molecules by hydrogen or
covalent bond.

7.4 Denim Dyeing Process :

There are three processes in the practice for continuous denim dyeing:

1. Rope Dyeing
2. Slasher or Sheet Dyeing
3. Loop Dyeing

7.5 Slasher Dyeing :

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In continuous slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing machine, direct warping beams are
used, instead of ball warping logs in case of Indigo rope dyeing system. The Slasher
Dyeing machine is capable of handling Ne count form 9/s to 30/s (OE and Slub both).
Typical schematic sheet dyeing range is shown in Figure. At the back end of the
slasher/sheet dyeing range, the direct warping beams are creeled. The yarns sheet
from each beam is pulled over and combined with the yarns from the other beams so
that multiple sheets of yarns can be made. When dyeing according to the sheet dyeing
method, instead of cables the warp threads are fed to the machine parallel next to
each other. These are much smaller compared to the rope dyeing machines. Another
advantage is that the cables dont need to be open after dyeing. Moreover, each yarn
wets much faster and in this way reduces the dipping and wetting times during dyeing.
All in all, each thread has a larger surface compared to a dyeing cable and this
requires somewhat more hydrosulphite to prevent a premature oxidation of the indigo.

Figure- slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing machine

7.6 Dyeing of Slasher Dyeing machine:

There are several types of dyeing available in denim. But in Beximco Denim Ltd.
4(four) types of dyeing processes are used:
Pure Indigo
Topping or Indigo Bottoming Sulphur Topping (IBST)
Bottoming or Sulphur Bottoming Indigo Topping (SBIT)
Pure Black/Sulphur

Figure- slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing machine

7.6.1 Pure Indigo :

Indigo dye is an important dyestuff with a distinctive blue color (see indigo). The natural
dye comes from several species of plant, but nearly all indigo produced today is
synthetic. Among other uses, it is used in the production of denim cloth for blue jeans.

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The form of indigo used in food is called "indigotine", and is listed as FD&C Blue

7.6.2 Topping :

In this method two type dyes are used for developing the required shed. In the topping
method the Indigo dyes are used to develop the blue in the bottom part of the yarn
whereas the Sulphur dyes are used to develop the black color shed in the top part of
the yarn.

7.6.3 Bottoming :

In this method two type dyes are used for developing the required shed. Here Sulphur
dyes are used to develop the black color shed in the bottom part of the yarn whereas
the Indigo dyes used to develop the blue in the top part of the yarn.

7.7 Equipments used in dyeing lab:

Na Imag Functions
me e

Color Assessment Color fastness and shade

Cabinet match.

Metrohm meter pH, Indigo and Hydro

measurement.

Portable Black color measurement.

Spectrophotometer

Metrohm pH meter pH measurement

Digital Balance Weight measurement

Desktop Computer Machine control and

dosing command.

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 Micro Oven Drying

7.8 Sizing:

The process of applying a protective adhesive coating upon the yarn surface is called
sizing. This is the most important operation to attain maximum weaving efficiency
specially for blended and filament yarns.

7.9 Objects of Sizing:

To improve the weave ability of warp yarn.

To maintain good quality fabric.
To reduce hairiness, weakness of textile materials.
To remove electrolytic formation for synthetic or blended yarn.
To increase elasticity.

7.10 Types of Sizing:

Sizing may be classified into four types on the basis of size% on the yarn.
Light Sizing : 10% to 15%.
Pure Sizing : 16% to 25%.
Medium Sizing: 26% to 50%.
Heavy Sizing : 50% to 100%.

7.10.1 Chemical Used For Sizing:

Adhesive Material: modified starch, synthetic chemicals e.g. Kollotex 5,Avetex
Chemicals: Quick solon SPR.
Acrylic Sizing Agent: e.g. size CA20.
Lubricants Softener: Sol wax -50, Mutton Tallow.

7.10.2 Sizing Ingredients:

Starch.
Binder.
Softener.
Anti-septic agent.
Anti-static agent.
Weighting agent.

7.10.3 Briefly describe the continuous slasher/sheet dyeing and sizing machine:

7.10.3.1 Creel section:

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The beams are creeled in the creeling zone .There are 12 pre beams capacity. Pre-
Beams are creeled here. Pre-Beams are negatively moved by the tension of warp
sheet from front side of m/c. Must have to maintain same speed & tension on each
pre Beam. Here is a control panel to control the speed of pre Beam.

7.10.3.2 Benlink:
Benlink tape is used for this process. It is costly. Benlink tape heated for almost 46
min. Before Belting Separating, rods are removed to pass through tape before entering
warpers beam.In case of ring Denim higher count is set at front side of creel section for
s
example. If we use 7 , 9s, 12s then first 4 pre beams contain yarn of 12 s.In case of
slub; if we use 4 pre beam for slub then first 2 slub, then regulary again 2 slub at
middle.

7.10.3.3 Accumulator:
Here pairs of Roller moving ups-down to maintain proper tension on yarn. It also
performs the storage of yarn. Accumulator stored extra yarn by going up pair of R/r,
during this time necessary work such replacement of weavers beam is done, then
again Accumulator come s its original position. Load cell Roller used here for
maintaining yarn tension.

7.10.3.4 Pre treatment:

Pre-treatment process in sheet dyeing consists of treatment of the cotton yarn sheet
with caustic and wetting agent. Pre-wetting is carried out in order to get proper dyeing
of the sheet. Pre-wetting is carried out with a Wetting agent, at room temperature. The
pH of the bath is 11.8-12.

7.10.3.4 Pre-Washing (1-3 box):

After pre treatment, pre-washing of the warp sheet is done. Pre washing is done in
order to remove the excess pre-treatment chemical from the warp sheet. Clod washing
is done after hot washing in order to reduce the temperature of the warp sheet. Before
dying, washing is important for better penetration of dye molecules in the fibre

7.10.3.5 Dyeing:

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As discussed above denim warp sheet is dyed with Indigo (Vat) dyes and sulfur dyes.
There are some options in dyeing of warp sheet.

Indigo (Regular): In this case we use indigo in all tanks. According to shade.
Bottoming: In this case another dye is applied before dyeing with indigo. First the
warp sheet is dyed with sulfur dye (black color) and then it is washed and then
dyed with indigo.
Topping: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with indigo in start and then it is
washed and then it is dyed with another dye (normally with sulfur).
Pure Black: In this case the warp sheet is dyed with sulphur dye (black
color) with high concentration of color.

Washing is done after dyeing bath in order to remove unfixed dye. There are three wash
box in this machine. The wash boxes are similar as pre wash box.

7.10.3.6 Drying Zone:

After wash box the yarns go through the dryer section. The wet yarns are dried by using
cylinder drying. Cylinder drying is done using steam heated hot rolls called the drying
cylinders. The cylinders are coated with Teflon to prevent sticking of the yarns on the
cylinders. The drying zone contains 10 cylinders.

7.10.3.7Accumulator:
Accumulator is also known as compensators. After drying an accumulator is provided
on the machine. Whose function is to minimize chance of stoppage of machine
because of the change of beam on the head stock and insertion of rods in the leasing
zone they accumulate the extra warp when the speed is reduced from the headstock by
moving assembly to upward direction. When the head stock is moved with a greater
speed the excess warp is removes from the accumulator.

7.10.3.8 Sizing:
The weaving process requires the warp yarns to be strong, smooth and elastic or
extensible to certain degree. To achieve these properties on the warp yarns, a protective
coating of polymeric film forming agent (size) is applied to the warp yarns prior to
weaving. This process is called slashing or sizing.One sizing tank is provided after the
drying zone. The capacity of the size box is about 500-1000 liters. Sizing material is
provided automatically by dosing system or it can be manually added.

7.10.3.8 Drying Zone:

After the size box the yarns go through the dryer section. The wet yarns are dried by
using cylinder drying. Cylinder drying is done using steam heated hot rolls called the
drying cylinders. The cylinders are coated with Teflon to prevent sticking of the yarns on
the cylinders. The drying zone contains 14 cylinders.

7.10.3.9 Accumulator:
After drying another accumulator is provided on the machine. Its function is same as
previous.

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7.10.4.1 Leasing Zone:
Due to the nature of sizing, the yarns in the sheet may be stuck together at the exit of
dryer section. Therefore they are separated into individual ends using leasing rods. The
individual sheets of yarns from each section beam are separated.

7.10.4.2 Expansion Comb:

Pins in the expansion comb separate the yarns within each sheet. With the expansion
comb the warps are spread according to the required width of the weavers beam.

7.10.4.3 Beaming:
The yarns are wound on to weavers beam at the headstock. A pressing roller is
pressing the warp yarn for uniform tension winding. A guide roller guides the yarns to
the weavers beam.

7.10.4.4 Transportation of Beams:

After the winding of dyed warp beams the from the head stock the samples of the yarn
are taken to laboratory for testing and then it is transported to the weaving department

7.10.5 Machine specifications of dyeing & sizing m/c in Beximco Denim :

For West Point Machine:

Machine manufacturer West Point
Origin Georgia, USA
Creel type Mobile/carrier
Creel capacity Maxm 20 beams & Minm 8 beams
Dips & skying Maxm 6 dips; 6 skying & Minm 2 dips;
Year of installation 1996

For Benninger Machine:

Machine manufacturer Benninger
Origin Germany
Creel type Mobile/carrier
Creel capacity Maxm 24 beams & Minm 4 beams
Dips & skying Maxm 8 dips; 8 skying & Minm dips;
Year of installation N/A

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8.1 Weaving :

The process of producing a fabric by interlacing warp and weft threads is known as
weaving. The machine used for weaving is known as weaving machine or loom.
Weaving is an art that has been practiced for thousands of years. The earliest
application of weaving dates back to the Egyptian civilization. Over the years, both the
process as well as the machine has undergone phenomenal changes. As of today,
there is a wide range of looms being used, right from the simplest handloom to the
most sophisticated loom.

8.2 Flow Chart of Weaving Process :

Weavers beam

Drawing/Knotting

Denting

Shedding

Picking

Beat up

Fabric Take up

Fabric Let off

Rolling

8.3 Basic Weave Designs :

Plain weave
Twill weave
Zigzag twill
Herringbone twill
Broken twill

Most of the other weaves are derived from these basic weaves. The immediate derivatives of
these structures are warp rib, filling rib, and basket weave.

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8.3.1 Plain Weave :
Plain weave is the simplest of all weaves. It has one-over one-under interlacing for both
warp and filing yarns, therefore the plain weave formula repeats on two warp and two
filling yarns. Plain weave requires only two harnesses. In Denim manufacturing this
weave is called Chambray.

Figure- 1/1 plain weave

8.3.2 Twill Weave:
Twill Weave is produced in a stepwise progression of the warp yarn interlacing
pattern.The interlacing pattern of each warp yarn starts on a different filling yarn and
follows the same formula. These results in the appearance of a diagonal line called twill
line in the fabric, which is then characteristic of this design. Depending on the direction
of the twill line, the twill weaves are called right-hand or left-hand twills.The sum of the
digits in the formula determines the unit cell of the design, which also gives the
minimum number of harnesses, requires weaving the design; at least three harnesses
are required for a twill weave. Common twill, Steep twill, Reclining twill and broken twill
are the different variations of the twill weave

Figure- 3/1 Twill weave

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8.4 Classification of Modern Weaving Machines :

Modern Weaving machines are classified according to their filling insertion mechanism.
The classification is as follows:
Air-Jet
Projectile
Rapier
Water-Jet

8.5 Air-Jet Weaving :

Air-jet weaving is a type of weaving in which the filling yarn is inserted into the warp shed
with Compressed air. Air-jet system utilizes a multiple nozzle systems and a profiled
reed. Yarn is drawn from a filing supply package by the filing feeder and each pick is
measured for the filling insertion by means of a stopper. Upon release of the filling
yarn by the stopper, the filling is fed into the reed tunnel via tandem and main nozzles,
which provide the initial acceleration.

Figure- Operation principle of air jet loom

8.6 Weaving in Beximco Denim :

In Beximco Denim Ltd. Weaving is air Jet. There are 110 air jet machines. The
department is working under the good supervision of weaving section, who is weaving
manager and very much dedicated to his work. He is working with all his technical,
management hardworking staff. Like some other departments weaving department is
running 24 hours a day and meeting the sales requirements. Weaving department is
playing a leading role in denim manufacturing at Beximco Denim Ltd..

8.7 Looming Process:

Looming covers the process involved in warp preparation after sizing up to setting
them to loom. The process can be shown as follows:
Drawing-in Warp Tying Loom

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8.7.1 Drawing-In:
The process of drawing every warp end through its drop wire, heddle eye and reed
dent can be performed manually or by means of automatic machines. The automatic
drawing machine can handle the leasing-in and drawing in process in one single
operation.

8.7.2 Tying-In:
When fabric of a particular type is being mass-produced, the new warp beams will be
identical with the exhausted beams on the looms. Therefore, if every end on the new
beam is tied to its corresponding end on the old beam, the drawing-in process can be
omitted. Tying-in may be done by means of a small portable machine on the loom or
as a separate operation away from the loom.
8.8 Basic Motion:
In order to interlace wrap and weft threads to produce a fabric, the following motions
are necessary on any type of loom:

Primary motions
Secondary motions
Tertiary motions

8.8.1 Primary Motions :

These are fundamental or essential motion. Without these motions, it is practically
impossible to produce a fabric. It is for this reason that these mechanisms are called
primary motion.

8.8.1.1 Shedding Mechanism :

The shedding mechanism separates the warp threads into two layers or divisions to
form a tunnel known as shed. The shed provides room for passage of the shuttle. A
shed may be formed by means of tappets, dobby and jacquard.
Shedding Components: There are two main shedding components:
Heald frame
Cam

Heald or Heddle: Healed frame or heddles consists of healed wires.To provide

straight path for the passing of the warp. These are twisted and metallic wires, which
slides on flat bars within the frame.

Cam / Tappet: The purpose of the cam is to control the motion of harness frames, the
lift of reed and the weave pattern. Possible weave patterns of fabric are 1/1, 2/1, 3/1
and 4/1. There are 4 cams in the air jet loom and a single cam is double plated. The
cam acquires special curved shape.

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8.8.1.2 Picking Mechanism :
The picking mechanism passes weft thread from one selvedge of the fabric to the other
through the shed by means of a shuttle, a projectile, a rapier ,a needle ,an air-jetor a water-
jet. The inserted weft thread is known as pick.
Components of Picking Mechanism:
Cone Stand
Cone holder
Disc
Tensioner

8.8.1.2.1 Warp Yarn Path Diagram(Air jet) :

Figure-
8.8.1.2.2 Weft Yarn Path Diagram(Air jet):

Figure-
8.8.1.3 Beat Up Mechanism :
The beat-up mechanism beats or pushes the newly inserted length of weft thread(pick)
into the already woven fabric at a point known as fell of the cloth. These three
mechanisms namely shedding, picking and then beat-up are done in sequence.

Sley: The sley is a metal frame. In case of air jet contains profile reed, relay nozzles,

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filling detector, stretch nozzle and side detector. At its forward motion the last pick is
beaten up to the fell of the cloth.
Reed: The reed is an arrangement if vertical steel wires spaced a given distance apart
a securely fastened at the top and bottom by the bindings. The spaced between two
wires is known as "dent". Reeds are made with any desire number of dents per inch,
according to the requirements of the cloth that is to be woven. Reed selection depends
on several considerations including fabric appearance, fabric weight (ends per unit
width), beat up force, air space requirements and weave design.

8.8.2 Secondary Mechanisms :

These mechanisms are next in importance to the primary mechanisms. If weaving is to

be continuous, these mechanisms are essential. So they are called the secondary
mechanisms. They are:

8.8.2.1 Take-up motion:

The take-up motion withdraws the cloth from the weaving area at a constant rate so as
to give the required pick-spacing (in picks/inch or picks/cm) and then winds it on to a
cloth roller.

8.8.2.2 Let-off motion:

The let-off motion delivers the warp to the weaving area at the required rate and
at constant tension by unwinding it from the weavers beam.

8.8.3 Tertiary Mechanisms :

To get high productivity and good quality of fabric, additional mechanisms, called
auxiliary mechanisms, are added to a loom. The auxiliary mechanisms are useful but
not absolutely essential. This is why they are called the auxiliary mechanisms. These
are listed below.
Weft stop motion
Temples
Brake
Warp stop motion

8.8.3.1 Weft stop motion:

The object of the weft stop motion is to stop the loom when a weft thread breaks or gets
exhausted. This motion helps to avoid cracks in a fabric.

8.8.3.2Warp stop motion:

The object of the warp stop motion is to stop the loom immediately when a warp thread
breaks during the weaving process.

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8.8.3.3 Brake:
The brake stops the loom immediately whenever required. The weaver uses it to stop
the loom to repair broken ends and picks.

8.8.4 Working of Air jet Loom:

The air jet weaving machine are supplied with compressed air from a central
compressor in the weave room or are equipped with individual built in compressor. To
achieve acceleration of compressed air with the leading end of the weft yarn nozzle is
used. The yarn is pulled from the supply package at a constant speed, which is
regulated by the feeder on a accumulator. The measuring disk removes a length of yarn
appropriate to the width of the fabric being woven.

Figure- Air jet Loom

The main nozzle begins blowing air so that the yarn is set in motion as soon as clamp
opens. yarn is blown into the guiding channel of the reed with the shed open.
Electronically controlled relay nozzles provide additional booster jets to carry the yarn
across the shed. At the end of the each insertion cycle the clamp closes; the yarn is
beaten in, and then cut, after the shed is closed. Again some selvage- forming device is
required to provide stability to the edges of the fabric. Here leno selvage was formed.

8.8.5 Total No. of Looms at Beximco Denim:

The total no. of looms in Beximco Denims Ltd. is 110, where 54 looms are of Tsudakoma
&another 56 looms are of Toyota. There are 2 models available of Toyota looms.

Brand Model No. of Loom Origen

Toyota JAT 710 1-12 Japan

Toyota 5300 13-30 Japan

Toyota 5200 31-56 Japan

Tsudakoma 57-110 Japan

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9.1 Finishing:

In general, before marketing, all the process which is applied on the fabric after
weaving is called finishing. In short sense, finishing is the process by which the fibers,
yarns and fabrics are made as presentable to the customer and these processes are
implemented after coloration.
The term finishing covers all those treatments that serve to impart to the textile the
desired end-use properties. These can include properties relating to visual effect,
handle and special characteristics such as waterproofing and non-flammability.

9.2 Objects of Finishing :

To increase the attractiveness of fabric.

To increase the fineness and to ensure smoothness.
To ensure the softness of the fabric.
To free from hairiness of the fabric.

9.3 Types of finishing :

Mechanical Finishing:
The finishing process which is performed by machines but not using of chemicals is
called physical/mechanical finishing.
Example: Calendaring, embossing, raising, sanforizing etc.

Chemical Finishing:
The finishing process which is performed by application of chemicals which reacts with
fibres is termed as chemical finishing.
Example: Starching, Mercerizing, resin finishing, Desizing, Water Repellent Treatment,
Flame Retardant Treatment, etc.

9.4 Finishing at Beximco Denim Ltd. :

Beximco Denim Ltd finishing department is a well-established modern section with a
suitable range of the finishing processes required for denim. Proper finishing process is
necessary otherwise the fabric will be rejected by the buyer. In case of denim mainly
controlling of the shrinkage and the skew of the fabric is done. Besides, finishing
process finishing section of Beximco Denim Ltd have to do a lot of others job like fabric
storing, inspection, sample processing etc. So a finishing section in a denim industry
plays a vital role.

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9.5 Flow Process Chart for Denim Finish Line:

Motor speed: 25-80 m/min

Fabric Unwinding

Brushing Protruding fibre removed by

blower
J-Box
Fabric store unit

Singeing
Gas Pressure: 1-2 Bar Bust remove
Brushing

Bust removed by blower

J-Box
Fabric store unit
Softening

Softener Flacks used for soften

Skewness
Strengthening the weft yarn

Dryer - 1, 2

Steam pressure: 2 Bar

Mini Stenter
Control of fabric width

Sanforizing

Fabric Shrinkage Control

Calendaring
Make the fabric surface uniform

Folding
Prepare for next step

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 Figure- Denim Finish
9.6 Briefly Describe The Process Sequence of Denim Finish Line :

9.6.1J-Box:
Store the fabric for some while during the process. This unit is important when change
of batcher. Stored fabric supports the continuous operation.

9.6.2 Brushing:
In the brushing stage, the grey fabric is brushed to remove the loose lint and loose fluff
from the fabric surface. It also raised the protruding fibers on the fabric surface which
are removed in the next stage of singeing process.

9.6.3 Singeing:
The fabric is then singled in both or only faces side which burn off the protruding fibers
from the fabric surface. Normally denim fabric is singed twice in a single passage of a
singeing machine. The denim finished fabric must have soft and pleasant handle.

Before Singeing After Singeing

9.6.4 Softening:
After the singing range, the fabric is subjected to a chemical pad treatment. Softeners
are often used in the chemical treatment in order to impart soft feeling of the fabric.

9.6.5 Skewness Control:

The skewness in denim fabric, particularly in twill weave creates a serious problem in
subsequent garment manufacturing and its washing. Leg twist is a major problem in
denim manufacturing. Due to this problem the leg is rotated in the opposite direction of
the twill of the fabric after laundering. The leg twist is created due to tensions in the
fabrics. It is related to the twill direction. Normally a right hand twill fabric twists in the
counter clockwise direction. Similarly a left- hand twill fabric twists in the clockwise
direction. These leg twist problem can be eliminated through compensating the
tensions by deliberately skewing the fabric in the counter clockwise direction for right-
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hand twills (RHT) and in the clockwise direction for left-hand twill(LHT).

9.6.6 Dryer:
Wet fabric is dried in this section. Steam produced by boiler heating thecylinder drum.
It increase the inside temperature of the drum. The temperature can be adjusted by
changing steam pressure. There are 16 drums for drying.

9.6.7 Sanforizing:
Sanforizing is a mechanical finishing process of treating textile fabrics to prevent the
normal dimensional alternation of warp & weft. After sanforizing the residual shrinkage
of woven fabric may be zero. The sole objective of sanforizing is to control the length
wise shrinkage of fabric.

9.6.8 Calendaring:
After grey fabric is subjected to singeing, softening, skewness, sanforizing etc. it is
finally dried to retain its true shape and dimensions. But in this state the fabric becomes
least lustrous. Because for those operations the threads in fabric become weave and
crimped. But if a fabric is to appear highly lustrous then its surface should be parallel to
each other and all should lie in the length direction.

9.6.9 Mercerization:
Mercerization is a physio-chemical process where yarn (cotton) is treated with 15-25%
caustic soda solution at a temperature of 200-300C. It is necessary to hold the fabric
under tension and wash thoroughly.

9.6 Finishing section of Beximco Denim Ltd :

Finishing process
Quality control
Inspection
Sample processing and preservation
Finished fabric storing and delivery

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10.1 Inspection Process:

Fabric batcher is set at the back side of machine equipped with rollers which provides
fabric unwinding. Inspection table is laminated white to enhance the defect identification.
Four tube lights are provided to optimize the lighting. Measuring counter is provided in
front of the inspection table for controlling length. It has forward, reverse, start and stop
button controls. Inspection is carried out on white board table. The cloth is pulled over
the white board table by a variable speed motor and different cloth defects are
recorded for quality control purpose. They inspect the fabric according to 4 point
system. After inspection fabric is wound on roller.
10.2 Four (4) Point System:
This is issued by the American Society for Testing and Materials with reference to the
designation: ASTM D5430-93. Faults are scored with penalty points of 1, 2, 3 and 4
according to their size and significance.

Size Of Defect (Length in Inches) Penalty Points

3 inches or less 1
Over 3 inches but less than 6inches 2
Over 6 inches but less than 9inches 3
Over 9inches 4

10.3 Procedure of Four-Point System:

Fabric inspection is usually done on fabric inspection machineries.
These machineries are designed so that rolls of fabric can be mounted behind
the inspection table under adequate light and re-rolled as they leave the table.
Inspection machineries are either power driver or the inspector pulls the fabric
over the inspection table.
The defects are located, marked and recorded on an inspection form.
Some machinery is equipped to measure the length of each roll of fabric .

10.4 Inspection at Beximco Denim Ltd. :

Quality is ultimate concern; every single yard of the denim goes through inspection
department and rated by a point count system to ensure that quality is up to standard
before packing. Defective fabric pieces are rejected and sold as seconds and relatively
minor defective points are marked clearly using stickers to alert cutters.

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11.1 R & D Department in Beximco Denim :

Research & development department is an important department for any textile

industry. This plays a direct role on developing a product. Beximco Denim Ltd. has
also a Research & Development (R&D) department with modern amenities which
correlates very well with the upcoming new product. Continuous research programmed
is carried-on here, which is completed by product development. The R&D department
is independent and equipped to promptly invent new designs for new fashion and
develop buyers requirements timely. This department keeps all documents from dyeing
recipe to fabric construction and keeps master roll to keep shade in same consistent
even over a longer discontinuity. Most often this department creates new product on
the basis of new design & structure by their own creativity according to the current
market demand and then give it to the buyer. If this design is approved by the buyer
then it is stored. They already developed over 15000 samples.

11.2 Procedure of R&D at Beximco Denim Ltd:

When an order comes from buyer in form of washed sample. The technical person
determines the shade percentage, amount and type of washing to that fabric to get the
appearance like the sample. So it is very important to wash the sample fabric to justify
his assumption. For this purpose a small washing unit is established in the factory.
Every order firstly comes into R&D department via marketing peoples by mail or
swatch. The R&D experts analyze these samples and match it with their developed
samples. If they find similar samples then this is sent to buyers for approve. If buyers
approve it then the R&D section goes for production

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11.3 Different Equipments in R&D at Beximco Denim Ltd :

The R&D department also performs different testing solutions. Most modern and efficient
lab Instruments from Atlas, UK which is operated by trained technicians. The variable
light box, Spectrophotometer, rubbing tester, Washing Fastness, Tensile strength tester
etc. gives accurate results and helps to keep quality good and more consistent. Lab
reports of a running lot are constantly maintained. After each process a sample for
testing is sent by the production staff usually after many meters of run. Lab report
contain information about various tests performed according to buyer requirements and
their results with remarks of responsible staff about the fabric

11.4 Developed Samples:

3/1 (both RHT & LHT)

2/1 (both RHT & LHT)
Samples according to Weave 2/2 RHT
3/2 RHT
4/1 RHT
1/1 chambrey
Broken Twill
Herringbone
Twill Zigzag
Twill
Regular OE
& Ring Slub
Samples according to Count Cross Slub
Stretch
Denim
Polyester
Denim
4.5 Oz/Yd2 to 15.75 Oz/Yd2
Light weight: 4.5
Samples according to Weight Oz/Yd2 Medium
weight: 7.5 Oz/Yd2
Heavy weight: 15.75
Oz/Yd2
Indigo
Special
Indigo
Samples according to Color Dark
Indigo
Blue
Black
Black
Ash
Reactive color denim

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Eight weeks industrial training in BEXIMCO DENIM LTD. was a concluding part of the
B.Sc. in Textile Engineering course which was to comprehend our theoretical
knowledge along with practical knowledge. It also enables me to orientate ourselves
with the practical environment where I will work in future. During the training period, the
whole 55 days were segmented and scheduled to a systematic routine. There were
different sides of operation in Fabric manufacturing process. First of all, it should be
mentioned that the BDL is a 100% export oriented industry. For producing a quality
product above all export quality. it is desirable that the processes should be highly
standard. For this purpose BDL has high skilled hard working officials, management
and departments. Last of all I thank all the officers who help me by co-operation and
give informations to me. I am lucky because I completed my internship in a well-known
industry which will help me to build-up my career in textile sector.

Finally I would like to wish Beximco Denims Ltd. to have a blast & thanks to
administration of Beximco Denims Ltd. for their cordial attitude to me.

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I AM STUDENT OF CITY UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH, DHAKA.
I AM VERYTHANKFUL TO THE HEAD, THE DIRECTOR AND
THE STAFF TO GIVE ME THE OPPORTUNITY AND FOR THE
ALLOWING TO DO THE INTERNSHIP IN BEXIMCO DENIM
LTD. AT BEXIMCO INDUSTRIAL PARK. THIS INTERNSHIP
REALLY HELPED ME IN THE NEAREST FUTURE.

THANK YOU
ASHIS BISWAS
25th BATCH
CITYUNIVERSITY

City University