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1 2 3
Hitoshi TANAKA , SUNTOYO and Tsuyoshi NAGASAWA
INTRODUCTION
A barrier can be defined as an elongate of sand body to be parallel with shoreline,
which may consist of a number of sandy units including beach, dunes, tidal deltas, wash-
over, and spits. This separates lagoon and estuary from marine environment. In the past
few decades, there have been many researchers who studied the barrier formation from a
This research investigates the actual events of sediment intrusion induced by wave
overtopping into Gamo Lagoon in Miyagi Prefecture, Japan. The amount of sediment
intrusion in the lagoon is estimated from aerial photographs taken since 1990. Furthermore,
it will be correlated with overtopping discharge estimated using an existing formula, to
formulate the sedimentation process in the form of sand concentration.
0 1km
Sendai Bay
Aerial photographs around the river mouth have been being taken from May, 1990
to March, 1994 every month and thereafter every two months. The occurrence of wave
overtopping and resulting overwashing was detected by analyzing aerial photographs in this
area. Furthermore, in order to specify storm waves that caused the overwash, the wave
data measured off Sendai Port was analyzed.
(a) 1947
Photo 1. Morphological change in the study area
(c) 1977
(d) 1986
Photo 3. Aerial photograph before and after sediment intrusion into Gamo Lagoon in
1994
2.5
Section (1),1979
Elevation above M.S.L (m)
2 Section (1),1995
1.5
0.5
-0.5
0 50 100 150
(m)
Section (2),1979
2
Elevation ab ove M.S.L (m)
Section (2),1995
1.5
0.5
-0.5
0 50 1 00 150
(m)
Fig. 2. Beach profile along Sections (1) & (2). ( Uehara et al., 1996 )
0.2 0.75
H
R H
u = 0.767s 0.12 o 3.04 s1.07 0.129 A 2 s 0.09 m 2
o
H L
L
o o
o
1
H
+ 0.212 Am o
2
(1)
L
o
where Ru: the run-up height, H0: the deep water wave height, L0: the deep water wave
length, s: the slope in the surf zone, m: the slope in the foreshore zone, and
f
1+ 2
A= a m (2)
(1 + 2 a )(1 + a )
where f is the friction coefficient and a=0.26 for m>0.1 and 0.13m-0.3 for m<0.1. The
wave run-up height is shown in Fig.3 after adding the tidal elevation to show the real height
of the run-up with respect to the mean sea level. It is seen that the maximum run-up is
higher than the level of sand barrier, indicating overtopping surely occurred during these
periods with high waves.
Sediment Concentration
In order to make a precise formulation of intruded sediment into the
lagoon, the investigation of wave run-up height described above is not sufficient. Thus,
relationship between wave overtopping rate and transported sediment volume will be
discussed herein.
6
Run-up Height + Tidal Le vel (m)
Deepwater Wa ve Heigh t (m)
5 Tidal Wave (m)
ti de , tide+R u, Ho (m)
4
Top of Barrier (=3m)
3
6
Run-up Height + Tidal Level (m)
Deepwater Wave Height (m)
5
Tidal Level (m)
tide , tide+R u, H o (m)
4
Top of Barrier (=3m)
3
0
Sep. 16 Sep. 17 Sep. 18 Sep. 19 Sep. 20
-1
Q0 = ( Ru + tide H c )
n
(4)
Here, it should be noted that Eq.(4) can be applied for estimating overtopping of regular
waves, whereas Goda (1985) has pointed out the importance of irregularity in the
computation of wave overtopping under irregular waves. In this study, therefore, the
expected rate of wave overtopping rate is calculated using the following equation, as
suggested by Goda (1985).
Q = 0 Q0 (H T1 / 3 ) p( H )dH
(5)
where Q0 (H T1 / 3 ) : the overtopping rate by regular waves with height H and period T1/3,
and p(H): the probability density function of wave height. The Rayleigh distribution is used
for p(H).
800
Overtopping (Nov. 1993)
Overtopping (Sep. 1994)
600
Qtotal (m /m)
3
400
200
0 24 48 72 96 120
Tim e (ho ur)
Fig. 4. Accumulated overtopping rate in 1993 and 1994
Qs = 0.039Q (6)
This result suggests that the sediment transport rate due to wave overtopping can be
estimated from overtopping discharge by employing Eq.(6).
102
Overwash rates per unit time, Q s(cm /cm/sec)
101
Qs = 0.039 Q
100
10-1
10-2
-3
10 -2 -1 0 1 2
10 10 10 10 10
Overtopping rates per unit time, Q (cm 3/cm/sec)
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
The authors would like to express their grateful thanks to Professor Shuto, Iwate
Prefectural University for his constructive comment during the course of this study. The
appreciation is extended to the Shiogama Construction Office, the Ministry of Transport,
and the Higashi Sendai Construction Office, the Miyagi Prefectural Government for their
kind offer of the field data used in this study. This research was partially supported by the
Ministry of Education, Science, Sports and Culture, Japan, Grant-in-Aid for Scientific
Research (B), No.14350262.
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