The Rivers

The 2010 Umpqua Edition features stories about the North, South and main Umpqua

A special publication of The News-Review

August 27, 2010
 Page 2–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS

Celebrating
Umpqua’s
The
water
and life
The News-Review
Umpqua
Like arteries and veins, the
North, South and main
Umpqua rivers and their many
tributaries are the lifelines of
Douglas County.
The residents of the county
showed they know the river
A crayfish crawls in the shallows of the South Umpqua
River at Stewart Park in Roseburg.
The News-Review photo file
system
system’s importance and popu-
larity by voting it the No. 1
greatest thing about Douglas
County in a News-Review poll
of readers back in March.
And now The News-Review
is celebrating and honoring the
river in the annual Umpqua
Edition special section. This
signature landmark of Douglas
County is well worth the spot-
light, today and every day. If
you’re a resident who’s on the
move, you can’t help but be
near the river system every
day. Interstate 5 crosses both
the North and South rivers.
The North and the main rivers
can be seen from Highway 138
and the South from Highway
42.
The river system brings us
life:
• Drinking water after it is
treated;
• Water to irrigate and help
grow backyard gardens, fields
of row crops, orchards and
pastures for raising livestock;
• A wide variety of fish and
habitat and drinking water for
wildlife;
• Recreation such as swim- CRAIG REED/The News-Review
ming, boating and rafting. The North Umpqua River curves around Whistler’s Bend Park near Glide in the trees to the left.
• And plenty of life memo-
ries.
Stories on the following
pages of this special section,
written by both News-Review
The North and South rivers both begin in the Cascade Mountains
reporters and by residents, are JOHN SOWELL and spent several decades collecting
just a small sample of how and The News-Review beavers.
why the Umpqua River system Fort Umpqua near Elkton was
is important to this land. established as a fur trading fort

T
About 100 photos of the he Umpqua River and its rather than a military installation. It
river system were submitted tributaries define Douglas was built in 1836 and operated until
and several of them are fea- County and make up one of 1854. It holds the distinction of
tured on pages 14 and 15. the largest river systems in being the first non-native settlement
Thank you, readers, for Oregon. in Oregon south of the Willamette
sharing your stories, photos The main section of the Umpqua Valley.
and love for the Umpqua. flows west to the Pacific Ocean from Both the North and South Umpqua
River Forks Park west of Roseburg. regions were important hunting, fish-
— Craig Reed That’s where the North Umpqua and ing, gathering and social areas for
Features editor South Umpqua rivers join to form the Native American tribes. Artifacts
main stem. indicate Indian presence goes back at
That portion of the Umpqua travels least 8,000 years, according to the
Published by
111 miles to the coast. The North Bureau of Land Management. That’s
Umpqua covers 100 miles between 1,200 years before the eruption of
The News-Review Maidu Lake in the Mount Thielsen Mount Mazama.
345 N.E. Winchester
Roseburg, Oregon 97470 Wilderness and River Forks Park, The geology of the Umpqua Basin
PHONE: (541) 672-3321 while the South Umpqua begins is much older. The volcanic rock on
about 20 miles northwest of Crater Canyon Mountain outside
Features Editor: Craig Reed
Layout: Marcy
Lake and travels 95 miles. Canyonville dates back to the Juras-
Davis-Maxwell The North and South Umpqua sic period, nearly 146 million years
Photo Editor: Michael rivers both begin in the Cascade ago.
Sullivan Mountains, at an equal elevation of News-Review file photo During that period, hot magma
Editor: Vicki Menard 6,003 feet, but the two streams are from a volcano poured throughout an
All contents copyrighted and may quite different. A great blue heron attempts to keep warm as it perches on a log over area that later became Southern Ore-
not be reproduced without consent
The South Umpqua descends quite the frozen South Umpqua River at Gaddis Park in Roseburg. gon, during an event known as the
of The News-Review.
The Umpqua Edition is published quickly, while the North Umpqua Nevadan Oregeny. Granitic rock also
annually.
takes a more leisurely drop in eleva- also found in the North Umpqua June and October, most regional formed during what is known as an
E-mail correspondence regarding
this publication to tion. Only 3 percent of the South below Soda Springs. streams see lower flows. However, intrusion, when molten rock cooled
newsdesk@nrtoday.com or Umpqua is located above 5,700 feet, What that means is that runoff in the water flow in the upper North beneath the surface of the ground.
via fax to (541) 957-4270.
while 20 percent of the North the upper North Umpqua is low but Umpqua remains fairly constant. Rock formations formed during the
Umpqua is found above that mark, is much higher in the lower North British horticulturist David Dou- intrusions were later exposed when
Cover photo according to the U.S. Forest Service Umpqua and in the South Umpqua. glas is credited with naming the the ground eroded.
by Michael Sullivan Deep pumice soils in the North The extra storage capacity brought Umpqua River in 1825. The name Many of those features can be
The News-Review Umpqua absorb water from melting by the deep pumice rock and other became synonymous with both the found around the rivers, with the
As the August summer snow and rain that helps sustain river volcanic soils of the upper North river and with the American Indian rock so hard it hasn’t been altered
sun sets, leaving the North flows during warmer and drier sum- Umpqua brings that river a summer tribe. despite millions of years of having
Umpqua River in shadows, mer months. flow that is 20 times that of the South The Umpqua River was favored river water flow over it.
David Lyon of Brisbane, The South Umpqua, on the other Umpqua, according to the Forest Ser- by fur trappers working for the
Calif., fly fishes the river in hand, is characterized by shallower vice. North West Company, according to • You can reach reporter John
hopes of hooking a summer and rockier soils that shed runoff Because there is little rainfall in the Oregon Encyclopedia. Trappers Sowell at 541-957-4209 or by e-mail
steelhead. water more quickly. Those soils are southern-central Oregon between entered the Umpqua Valley in 1819 at jsowell@nrtoday.com.

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Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition
‘The Mighty Umpqua’
Wayne West drew inspiration from the North Umpqua River, which flows past his home in Whistler’s
Bend Park, to write the song ‘The Mighty Umpqua.’
Beauty of the river makes Wayne West break into song
TRICIA JONES
The News-Review
any an evening finds
M
Wayne West watching
the sun disappear
beyond the dock of his
home on the road lead-
ing to Whistler’s Bend Park.
And every time, his thoughts
are the same.
“We just give thanks,” West
said, referring to himself and his
wife, Urldine. “We’ve traveled so
many miles, been in so many
areas, and how we ended up in a
beautiful place like this, I’ll never
know.”
The retired building official
attributes much of the beauty to
the North Umpqua River that
flows by his house. It’s a sight that
could move the musically minded
to burst into song. Being just that
sort of fellow, West not only has
been so inspired, but also has
h Schoo
G li d e H ig
pm
( P o w e ll D e v e lo
COSTCO
m u n it y H e a lt h C
Com
Umpqua
THE RIVERS
MICHAEL SULLIVAN/The News-Review
recorded the song for a New Mex- moved to it as soon as possible.
ico music publisher. But in 1981, he got a request to
“The Mighty Umpqua” was first return to the planning and building
released in 2002. Just this year, department in Anaheim, Calif.,
West decided to release a new and he left the Umpqua River sys-
arrangement of the song. It’s the tem behind. He stayed in Anaheim
lead tune on a CD of the same until his retirement in 1992.
name and is available at the Rose- Of course, California had its
burg Fred Meyer. perks. As a side job, West earned
The initial version was the himself a niche at Disneyland,
result of a fishing trip in which singing country and western songs
West landed the salmon (eaten in Frontierland. Amusement park
long ago) pictured on the back of staff gave him a plaque on his
the CD. West said he came home departure. The farewell gift
from a splendid day of fishing on depicts Mickey Mouse holding a
the main Umpqua River, took a microphone and wishing West
dock’s-eye view of the North happy trails.
Umpqua and decided everybody That trail eventually led back to
with ears to hear should know the North Umpqua River and the
how he feels about the river. home where West lives today. He
It’s a relationship that goes back recently decided to shorten his
to 1972. West came to Douglas 2002 musical tribute so that the
County that year to call square composition would be more suit-
dances for the Buckaroo Barn. He able for radio airplay. He’s also
loved the area so much, he bought happy to perform the song at
a ranch in Lookingglass and churches, senior sites, assisted liv-
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West’s favorite compliment
about “The Mighty Umpqua”
came from a woman who told him
she enjoyed listening to the song
while relaxing in her recliner.
“She said, ‘I was born and
raised here, and I can lay back and
(mentally) follow the river all the
way from Toketee to the ocean,
just like you sang it,’” said West,
who turned 80 last month. “That’s
the way I want people to feel
about it.”
Not even Mickey Mouse could
lure West away from the river
again.
“This is where I’m going to
stay,” he said. “I want to spend all
my years that are left here.”
For information about Wayne
West’s music, call A & F Music at
1-800-901-4391. West can be
reached at 541-672-3744.
C h a n t e le
g To u c h
The Mea
dows s u b d iv is
Commun
it y C a n c
Roseburg, Oregon, Page 3
‘The Mighty Umpqua’
by Wayne West
Down in southwest Ore-
gon the mighty Umpqua
flows
Comes down from the
mountain, formed by the win-
ter snow
Through Toketee and
Steamboat, Idleyld Park and
Glide
Then just a little bit further
west, Little River collides
It makes its way ’round
Whistler’s Bend, Echo Bend
then goes
Through Winchester by
Roseburg where the South
Umpqua flows
They both join up at River
Forks, then they become
one
The Mighty Umpqua flows
northwest through western
Oregon
I know there’s lots of rivers
in the good ole USA
But once you’ve seen the
Umpqua, it will steal your
heart away
If you’d like to give yourself
a treat and float your cares
away
Take a trip down the
Umpqua and watch the
wildlife play
You’ll see ducks, geese
and otter out most every day
Elk, deer and beaver, they
all come out to play
The Umpqua gets bigger
every mile along the way
It’s one of the grandest
sites in the good ole USA
All the ar tists and the
tourists come to enjoy the
view
And I’ve got a short story
I’d like to share with you
We were floating down the
Umpqua in the early morning
dawn
A chilly late October; we
had our rain gear on
A little fog was hanging
’round but that didn’t slow us
down
I hooked a 12-pound silver
(wow), made my ole heart
pound
We passed Elkton, Wells
Creek and Scottsburg that day
Reedspor t by Gardiner,
into Winchester Bay
I know there’s a lot of
rivers in the good ole USA
But once you’ve seen the
Umpqua River
It’ll steal your heart away
& Memo
r y C a re
io n o n G
a r d e n Va
ll e y
er Cente
r
 Page 4–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS
Appreciation
for the river
continues
The Umpqua’s four seasons
BOB ALLEN
For The News-Review
By 1987 the Roseburg
Urban Sanitary Authority had
completed its multi-million
from our backyard
dollar plant along the South
Umpqua River.
The planners at the time
thought that a backup electri-
cal system for the facility in
case of power failure was
unnecessary.
That year the first of two
major sewage spills occurred
due to
interrup-
tions of
power from
outside the
facility. A
group of
citizens
protested in
front of the
Douglas
Allen County
Courthouse
to bring
attention to the issue, putting
pressure on RUSA to get a
backup generator. They said
that it would cost about a mil-
lion dollars and declined. After
the second spill they found a
military surplus generator for
about $125,000 in Washington
State. To my knowledge there
have been no spills since.
The group that protested at
the courthouse decided to do
something positive around the
issue of honoring the Umpqua
River and organized a free
event they called River Appre-
ciation Day at River Forks
Park in September 1987. It
featured speeches, a magic
show, music and educational Photos courtesy of the Blenkers
booths focusing on education
about river and water issues. It Springtime rains increase the Umpqua River’s water level and greens up the banks.
was seen as a success and they
decided to make it an annual
event but moved the date to
the third Saturday of July. From spring to winter, the changes in scenery are constant along the river
In 1988, the keynote speaker
at the event was then Senate fish in the river. I don’t
BILL AND MARIAN
President John Kitzhaber. He think there is a day in the
was asked if he would sponsor BLENKER
For The News-Review year where one would not
a bill to make River Apprecia- have a chance at hooking a
tion Day honored throughout e first moved trophy.

the State of Oregon. He agreed
and the bill was co-sponsored
by then State Representative
Norm Gershon, now executive
director of Umpqua Training
and Development in Roseburg.
The bill passed both houses
and was signed into law by the
governor.
This event also encouraged
the annual Umpqua River
Cleanup Day in September.
This year the “RAD Com-
mittee,” now a part of the local
conservation group, Umpqua
Watersheds, held its 24th River
Appreciation Day Celebration
at Whistler’s Bend Park in
Douglas County. In past years
the event has been held along
waterways in Elkton,
Canyonville, Roseburg, Glide
and even high up in the Rogue-
Umpqua Divide Wilderness.
The local community group
Partnership For The Umpqua
has now taken responsibility
for the annual river cleanup.
Watch for announcements in
September and join to do your
part in keeping our treasured
river clean for all to enjoy
including the life that lives in
and depends on it.
Next year join in at the 25th
annual celebration of River
Appreciation day at Whistler’s
Bend Park on the third Satur-
day in July.
W
here 15 years
ago from East-
ern Washing-
ton to be near
aging parents,
and the first thing we had to
decide was where we wanted
to live.
It was an easy decision
after we got our first look of
the Umpqua River. After
looking for a while, we
decided the perfect place
would be on the main
Umpqua River near
Umpqua. We both fell in
love with this beautiful sec-
tion of the river and we were
close to town and still able
to live in the country.
We soon found out that
our choice was the right one.
First of all, the river pro-
vides us with a beautiful
view every day. It has been a
place of solitude and gives
us a stress-free lifestyle.
Each spring brings us
much-needed rain that only
makes the river more beauti-
ful for the coming of sum-
“...we decided the perfect place would be on the main Umpqua River near Umpqua.” — Bill and Marian Blenker
Cold and snow can give the Umpqua River a more dormant look in the winter.
mer. This is time for visitors
and family to come for visits
of relaxation, swimming and
of course fishing. All who
visit envy us and wish they
could stay longer.
The end of summer brings
us to fall. We are lucky to
be able to witness Mother
Nature’s paintbrush. When
the leaves of the trees
retreat for the coming of
winter, the riverbanks are
still full of the vivid colors
of fall.
It’s also time for salmon
fishing. So many of our
friends love the challenge of
trying to lure a fish. One
thing for sure is we are very
lucky to have such variety of
Last but not least we come
to winter. This is the season
of many surprises. We start
with the rains and with them
come the changing levels of
the river flow. Sometimes it
can be very exciting and at
other times it can be very
intimidating.
Also in the mix, one
might just experience some
of that white rain, more
commonly know as snow.
We are very lucky that when
this happens, it is only with
us a few days.
To sum it it all up, I don’t
think there are many places
that are more beautiful than
the Umpqua River and the
100 Valleys of the Umpqua.
I know we have made the
right choice of living on the
Umpqua River, for it offers
everyone a chance to relax
and enjoy the many uses it
has to offer.
Bill and Marian Blenker
are 15-year residents of Tyee
Road in the Umpqua area.

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 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 5

THE RIVERS

‘Our River’ HERB READ

For The News-Review
From the rain and snow
that winter brings,
And sparkling water from
hidden springs.
From peaks that rise in the
high Cascades,
Through mountain mead-
ows and forest glades.
Rippling, gurgling, joyous
in song,
Little North Umpqua frolics
along.
Enter the lake where you
seem to stop,
But soon with a mighty
roar you drop
Over the dam with a wild
display
Of iridescent colors in
spray.
Then under the bridges
onward surge,
Soon with the South Fork
silently merge.

Fed by clear Now you have

brooks as onward changed, you chatter
you flow, no more,
Deeper and wider Little chuckles
constantly grow. have turned into a
We hear an owl roar.
hoot, and eagle’s You seem much
cry, older throughout
Wild creatures your length,
answer, birds sing Read Flexing your mus-
on high. cles, showing great
Add your music, the choir strength.
is complete, Larger and stronger, you
As all sounds blend in har- are in truth,
mony sweet. Now an adult, no longer a
youth.
Running, then walking, Glide on forever, beautiful
never at ease, stream,
Courtesy photo
Gliding ’neath bowers of While your waters in the
The memories of growing up along the North Umpqua River now provide Patsy Skeels with special moments of calm. evergreen trees. sunlight gleam.
O’er rocky ledges, through Send out your laughter,
deep shaded pools, joyous and free,

The river has flowed Where salmon and steel-

head gather in schools.
Then into the sunshine
sparkling bright,
Shimmering, glistening,
On your winding journey to
the sea.
Profound beauty! Wild
exaltation!
Hail Mighty Umpqua!

through our lives

There are numerous memories of swimming, fishing and special times from growing up on the river
PATSY SKEELS
For The News-Review
t seems it has always been
The blood pressure reads
lower, the shaking of my
afflicted left arm diminishes,
the 1930s.
“We didn’t use tubes,” he
said. “Didn’t have any.”
each hand. The freezer is sel-
dom without packages of chi-
nook. Salmon barbecues are
beautiful sight.
Flowing through parks in
heat of the day,
Where people swim and
small children play.
There at tables in cool dap-
pled shade,
Picnic lunches are carefully
made.
Dancing waters stretch out
in the sun,
God’s creation.
Editor’s Note: Herb Read
has lived in Douglas County
since 1963. He wrote the
above poem in 1977 while
working for the Oregon
Department of Fish and
Wildlife. His work included
counting fish at the Winches-
ter Dam fish ladder and help-
ing at the Rock Creek Hatch-
ery and with field projects.

I the anxiety fades.
part of our lives, this river,
this trinity of flowing
waters — the North
Umpqua, the South Umpqua,
the Umpqua.
“Can we go swimming,
Mother?” my child asks on a
day with temperatures marked
with three digits.
“Get your suits on,” I reply,
and then we trudge — our
three young daughters and I
(the Dad has the misfortune to
have to work in this God-
awful heat) — down the drive-
way, across the highway to the
sandy bank of our private
swimming hole in the North
Umpqua.
The memory is there for our
youngest child. When she
leaves her high-stress job in
the big city and joins us for a
visit, she says, “I’m going
down to smell the river.” She
comes back with a smile on
her face. Her deep desire is to
retire to a home on the North
Umpqua River.
Oh, the memory is there for
the Dad, too, especially of that
part of the North Umpqua that
stretches below the dam at
Winchester, where there are
deep holes where salmon lie to
rest on their upward journey.
He knows the rapids, riffles
Once he had to rescue his
brother out of a deep hole.
“I saw him floating limp
way down at the bottom. I
grabbed his hair and pulled
him up.”
As young men my dad and
his brother would swim across
the upper North Umpqua, tow-
ing their clothes and fishing
supplies, to the always-better
fishing holes on the other side.
I have seen them do this. The
old photo albums show the
evidence of their prowess in
no-limit times, rows and rows
of fish displayed on a board.
At one point when growing
up, we lived not far from the
common, if treasured occa- Rash adolescent, join in the
sions. fun. Read is now retired.
The river has been good to
us. Not that it hasn’t threat-
ened us a few times, as if to
say, “Don’t take my power for
granted.” The ’64 flood taught
us that and subsequent high
water levels have reminded us.
Though we love it, the river
is a wild thing. Don’t mess
with it. Respect it. We do. And
we’ve been rewarded richly.

E
and eddies that he negotiates South Umpqua. There, too, we
By the time we put our toes with his North River boat. He swam, caught crawdads,

on the damp sand at the edge
of the river and feel the sur-
prising cold of the water,
which is, after all, just melted
snow water running down out
of the mountains, we are
cooled off. No need to go
swimming. But we do, and the
splashing, floating, squealing
knows much of its crenelated
bottom by snorkeling for dis-
carded fishing lures.
For nigh onto six decades,
since he was a teenager, he has
fished that stretch, often with
his dad, who also knew the
river intimately. It is said that
he knows every hole by name.
S B LOW- O U T SA L
MATTRES
watered our horses. I see my
dad reaching with his bare
hand under the dark, mysteri-
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out a wriggling crawdad.
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at the minnows nibbling at our
toes, the simple inhaling of the
scent of the river, refresh us in
a way that nothing else can do.
We are restored.
Going back up the dusty
driveway with water dripping
into our shoes and wet towels
draped around our necks, we
“Tell us their names,
Daddy,” one child says.
“Well,” he muses, “There is
the Hip Hole, the Rail Road
Hole, the Log Hole, the Pot
Hole, the Tank Hole, the
Swimming Hole, The Wipe-
out Hole, the Drifting Ground,
the Cummins Hole, the Pine
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The memory will still be
there, though for a second
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on the river. We will be driving
often down the Umpqua to our
home on a coastal lake, look-
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are hot again. But the memory
is there.
The memory is there to use
when I need a special moment
of calm. I bring back the sen-
sation of floating on my back
in our swimming hole, the cool
liquid swirling around me, the
Tree Hole, the Tire Hole, the number of boats at Scottsburg, Queen Set Queen Set Queen Set
Pump Hole, Agee Flat, the Lee and making plans to put in the
Love Hole, and others. There boat for spring salmon fishing King Set King Set King Set
should be a hole named after at Winchester.
me after all these wonderful
years on the river.”
Again, the photo albums
record the success of those
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 Page 6–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS
‘Journey’
River offers ‘A Sense of Place’ RON BOLT
For The News-Review
Steven Buchko recalls Through the birth canal of
fond memories Maidu
of the river Young Umpqua gushes
forth.
STEVEN BUCHKO He nurses snowmelt from
For The News-Review earth
And rainwater from sky.
The line whispers through the light Growth
morning mist, landing on the deep spurts from
green water like a feather falling ever tributaries
so gently from the sky. Almost Begin to
immediately the silence is broken by fill him
the rippling of water and the bending out.
of the rod. The fight is on. Between
I remember early mornings sleep- bursts of
ing in the car with the faint sounds of energy
Elvis on the car radio and the smell He naps
of stale cigarettes in the air. I recall at Lemolo
all those sack lunches, never ending and Toke-
streams of log trucks, hand-tied flies Bolt
tee.
and old worn-out baseball caps. My No
memories include my dog swimming longer crawling, Umpqua
in the river, much to the displeasure rushes on
of my father, and the annoying habits Growing into a reckless
of my baby sister. force.
I see the river, endless in time, Out-of-control spurts lead to
always flowing, forever moving with Falls along the way.
nothing to detain it from its journey Testing boundaries he loses
to the sea. Drifting in my mind are Splotches of surface on
the myriad of colors of the maples rough rocks.
and oaks and the snow-covered Feeling full of himself
mountains surrounding the fields of He challenges rafters to
Douglas firs. I still remember the fight.
feeling of warmth on my hands and Clashes with little sister,
face, as the sun slowly started anoth- Little River
er day, coupled with the pleasure I Bringing her into line.
felt every time I put a bamboo rod in CRAIG REED/The News-Review A brush with civilization
my hands. I recall the faint smell of Steven Buchko has many memories of growing up on the North Umpqua River near Glide. Tames his wildness.
fires burning in the distance, and the He merges with a mate from
sound of a hawk screeching overhead the south;
looking for its first meal of the day. She stabilizes his rowdy
The love of this river, that my

“
ways.
father taught me, never leaves me. He matures to a purpose of
Watching him cast a fly was watch- work
ing perfection. It was one of the most Irrigating ranches and
beautiful sights I have ever seen — a farms.
form of visual poetry. The caddis, the Old river slows in his last
nymph, the skunk and the mayfly The love of this stages
were so much a part of my vocabu- river, which my And gives up his lifeforce to
lary, yet foreign to most. the sea.
When I look back to that time of father taught me, Vapor arises from the sea
my life on the river, to the pure art of never leaves me. And like a salmon returning
fly fishing, to the majesty of it all, to spawn
these memories take on a meaning Drifts along on eastbound
hardly ever equaled in my life. I still Steven Buchko fronts
feel so serene when I’m by myself at Elkton Droplets impregnate Maidu
The News-Review File Photo
the river, for this place is mystical, a Who again births her off-
spiritual place, my cathedral. Being Fall colors are reflected in the Umpqua River near Kellogg spring
there, knowing that this place has

barely changed since the beginning
of time, gives me a perspective not
attained in my normal day-to-day
existence.
This is one of my earliest and
strongest memories of a place and a
time, all of which have influenced
me enough to have changed me for-
ever.
Steven Buchko of Elkton received
”
an “A” grade for creativity for this An ancient and timeless rit-
story that he wrote for a writing class ual
at Umpqua Community College sev- As old as the rocks who
eral years ago. Buchko was raised in hold her
the Glide area near the North As young as the wildflowers
Umpqua River. Who celebrate the ceaseless
cycle.

Elk Island was a social center Happiness Times Two at Linus Oakes
The News-Review
Just five blocks from the
busy rush of traffic on Inter-
state 5 is a 22-acre island in
the center of Roseburg that
has lain untouched and unused
since the late 1940s.
Elk Island, once a social
center of the town, is now a
quiet refuge of fruit trees,
deer, raccoons and rabbits.
The island was formed in
1861 when the South Umpqua
River cut a new channel dur-
ing what was called the Great
Flood.
The first owner of the island
was William Cobb, who oper-
ated Cobb Realty in the early
1900s. Cobb sold the island to
the Elks Lodge in the 1930s,
when the Elks named the
le...
island and began a project to
develop the area as a city
social center.
of tennis on the island’s tennis
courts.
The tennis court and picnic
shelter are hard to find now. A
flood in the late 1930s wiped
out the access to the island
and destroyed the recreational
area. The Elks finally sold the
island in the late 1940s to
James Cobb, brother to
William.
James began to rebuild the
island once again. He built a
swinging bridge to the island
from Douglas Avenue, built a
house and put in a pump for
irrigation of the land, where
he grew some fruit trees.
When he died in 1951, he left
the island to his wife, Lillian.
Lillian Cobb sold the island
on Feb. 24, 1970 to her three
daughters. The heirs held onto
the island until it was partially
flooded in 1978. On Aug. 15,
1979, the sisters sold the
island to Western Office Sup-
ply of Las Vegas, Nevada on
Oct. 1, 1981.
Some suggested uses for the
land have included a tourist You’ll love our dining room.
campground, animal park,
religious retreat, Christmas Your daughter? She’ll love
tree farm, restaurant, golf
course, gravel and rock the 24-hour security.
deposit, farm, fishing resort or
nursery.
Flooding has been the only
obstacle keeping some people
from buying the island. The
island has an elevation of 25
feet above the river level.
Flood level for the South
Umpqua River is 26 feet.
The island is accessible
eight months out of the year Who knew the
by a gravel road on the west
side of the river. Otherwise a “kids” would be
short canoe trip can transport
such worriers?
people to and from the island.
For now, the island is quiet-
ly sitting in the middle of

u better
People would walk down to island to Larry, Lottie and town, unchanged and unused
the island for a picnic at the David Johnson for $55,000. since the days of tennis and
recreation area or play a game The Johnsons later sold the picnics.

Meet Frank Moore

Frank Moore is Douglas County’s
most famous fisherman and I try to go Which is why Linus Oakes
up on the North Umpqua with him any has all the amenities you both
chance I get. Over the past few years are looking for – independent
Frank was having more trouble seeing living, safety and security.
Steelhead in the water and driving the We think that’s a pretty great
winding North Umpqua Highway. Good
combination.
for the fish but not for Frank. We decided
it was time to fix his cataracts and now We’d love to show you around
Frank is back to perfect vision. Good for and tell you more.
Frank but definitely bad for the fish.
Call us today.
-Bradley H. Seely, M.D.
(and yes, please bring
your daughter along.)
Umpqua Valley
Eye Associates
2665 Van Pelt Blvd. • Roseburg, OR 97471
For appointments call: 800-499-8289
Patrick Gregg, MD • Bradley Seely, MD • Stewart Wilson, MD 541-677-4800 • 1-800-237-9294
341 Medical Loop, Suite 120 • On the Mercy Campus, Roseburg
www.linusoakes.com
 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 7
THE RIVERS

North Umpqua provides peaceful quiet

MIKE AND CAROL POE
For The News-Review

W
hile searching for
what would be
our future retire-
ment location,
we happened upon the beauti-
ful North Umpqua River.
Although our destination
was Crater Lake, the unexpect-
ed discovery of the Thunder-
ing Waterfalls and the pristine
beauty of the North Umpqua
stole the show. Like having a
good massage, we soon melted
into the calming peaceful quiet
of this area. Our deep appreci-
ation for nature would be satis-
fied here.
Passing over the options like
the booming growth of Bend
and Central Oregon, leaving
the rural metro area of Wash-
ington County was an easy
choice. We are so blessed to
now live on the North Umpqua
River. Here, where people still
wave to strangers on our small
country road, we have found
our little piece of paradise.
We raft, swim, canoe, fish
and hike along the Umpqua.
Not a day goes by that we are
not yet still awed by the
uniqueness of this wonderful
river. I so clearly understand
why famous author Zane Grey
wanted to keep this area
under-published in his writ-
ings.
So, we carry on the love of
the Umpqua River by practic-
ing good stewardship of the
land for generations yet to
come, to enjoy.

Photos courtesy of Mike and Carol Poe

ABOVE: Mike and

Nicole LaGood of
Portland fish for trout
and summer steelhead
on the North Umpqua
River in July 2009.

LEFT: The main

Umpqua River in the
fall of 2009 near
Sawyer’s Rapids.

RIGHT: Geese on the

North Umpqua River
are photographed from
the deck of Mike and
Carol Poe’s home.

UMPQUA SYMPHONY ASSOCIATION

20102011 Season
EUGENE TINGSTAD AND EUGENE BALLET
SYMPHONY RUMBEL COMPANY WITH BIG
“PICTURES AT AN EXHIBITION”
DANAIL RACHEV, MUSIC DIRECTOR/CONDUCTOR
WITH VIOLINIST JENNIFER FRAUTSCHI
“HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS”
WITH UMPQUA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
JASON HEALD, CONDUCTOR
HORN JAZZ BAND
“ALICE IN WONDERLAND” & “SWING KINGS”
Co-Sponsored with Roseburg Community Concert Association Co-Sponsored with Umpqua Community College TONI PIMBLE, ARTISTIC DIRECTOR
Concert sponsors: ATRIO/DCIPA, John William Unruh/ Oregon Concert Sponsor: AVISTA Corp. Concert sponsors: ATRIO/DCIPA
Community Foundation
Saturday, December 18, 2010 Saturday, March 19, 2011
Friday, September 24, 2010 7:30 P.M. Jacoby Auditorium, U.C.C. 7:30 P.M. Jacoby Auditorium, U.C.C.
7:30 P.M. Jacoby Auditorium, U.C.C.
CASCADIA CLARINET E ric Tingstad and Nancy Rumbel blend Americana
fingerstyle guitar with double reeds and ocarina to lend F ounded in 1978, the Eugene Ballet Company has grown
from a community-based dance group to become one
of the West’s busiest and most versatile professional dance
magic to the holiday season. They will be joined by the
companies. After performing “Alice in Wonderland” they will be
QUARTET Umpqua Chamber Orchestra under the direction of Jason
Heald for an evening of celebration joined by Roseburg’s own Big Horn Jazz Band as they perform “Swing
Kings” a tribute to the swing era of the 1940s.
& LEFT DOUGLAS COUNTY
COAST CHAMBER
SAXOPHONE ORCHESTRA YOUTH ORCHESTRA
“WINTER CONCERT”

QUARTET KREMLIN KRISTIN RILEY, CONDUCTOR

Concert sponsors: Umpqua Symphony Association
MISHA RACHLEVSKY, MUSIC DIRECTOR Umpqua Community College
“OREGON REED SUMMIT” Concert sponsor: Paul aand Lory Utz
First Presbyterian Church, Roseburg, Concert sponsors:
Sunday, February 27, 2011 Tuesday, January 25, 2011
Umpqua Bank, David Morrison and Peppi Mellick
3:00 P.M. Jacoby Auditorium, U.C.C. 7:00 P.M. Jacoby Auditorium, U.C.C.
Sunday, November 14, 2010 “SPRING CONCERT” To Be Announced
3:00 P.M.
F ounded in 1991, Chamber Orchestra Kremlin comprising
some of Russia’s finest young string players, has carved
a niche for itself under the creative baton of its founder and
The Douglas County Youth Orchestra concerts showcase over one
hundred students from age four to twenty. The intermediate and

E njoy these two Oregon woodwind groups as they

delight audiences with music from classical to
klezmer, latin to jazz.
music director Misha Rachlevsky. The orchestra’s warmth
and high energy create addictive performances that stay with
advanced Orchestras offer a repertoire from the Baroque to the
Modern. Douglas County can be proud of these fine musicians.
listeners long after the last note has been played

For more info: www.umpquasymphony.org • (541) 496-4546

SEASON TICKETS Credit cards accepted at:
ADULT $75 • SENIOR $65 http://tickets.umpqua.edu • 541-440-7700
STUDENT $20 • FAMILY $175

INDIVIDUAL TICKETS Ticket Outlets:

ADULT SENIOR STUDENT FAMILY Hanson Jewelers • While Away Books • Harvard Ave. Drug
Pre-purchased: 18 $ $
16 $
5 $
45 Sutherlin Drug • At the door (if still available)
At the door: $
20 $
18 $
5 $
50
Page 8–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS

1964 flood one for the books

Four days of constant rain,
melting snow resulted in
Umpqua River system
flooding homes, property
CHRISTIAN BRINGHURST
The News-Review
arolyn Callahan was a sen-

C ior in high school enjoying

her last Christmas break as
a high school student when
the floodwaters of 1964
snuck up on her family’s Del Rio
Road property and forced the fami-
ly to mount a hasty evacuation.
Rain had been thundering down
on the hundred valleys of the
Umpqua for days, Callahan and her
family listening to the news all the
while to find out when the river
would crest so they would know
when to leave.
“We were looking out the front
expecting it to crest at a certain
time, and the way the house sits, it’s
on a little bit of a mound, and so it
came around the other side of the
house,” Callahan said.
The Callahans were caught totally
unawares as the water began to lap
at their door. They had no time to
pack, so they just piled into the car
and left all of their belongings
behind. The waters would rise as
high as the kitchen counters before
subsiding, ruining clothing, photo-
graphs, home movies — everything.
“When we came back, whenever
that might have been, there was at
least a foot of silt just on the floor in
the house,” said Callahan. They
found their cat taking shelter on the
roof. Callahan would live away from
the home with a friend for some
time while the house was being
cleaned up, a process that required
redoing the floor, laying new carpet,
throwing out water-damaged proper-
ty among other tasks.
The drama playing out in the
home of Dr. Donald Jeppesen,
Callahan’s father, was reprised
many times throughout Douglas
County as the Umpqua River sys-
tem and its tributaries flooded their
banks that Christmas week, inun- Photos courtesy of Douglas County Museum of History and Natural History
dating homes, farms, streets and The South Umpqua River floods the Winston area in 1964. Highway 99 is at the top of the photo; the Clay Smith house is in the center.
bridges all over the region.
In the Garden Valley area, as burg’s two hospitals quickly filled, dents at the Umpqua Store to get to
elsewhere, the water reached to the forcing the veterans hospital to higher ground.
roofs of many buildings and homes. accept patients. “I was telling the people in the
The community of Umpqua was Roseburg motels and hotels store, I said, ‘You better maybe go
largely cut off from the rest of the boomed with displaced residents, over to the school house tonight ...
valley, with three families with at least one lodge offering free because from all the reports that I’m
marooned at the school. They had rooms to evacuees. Meanwhile, hearing, I mean it hasn’t stopped
to be evacuated by helicopter, county health officials warned resi- and it’s rising pretty rapidly.”
according to News-Review cover- dents in flooded areas to get vacci- Although his Umpqua home was
age of the disaster. The Foothill nated for typhoid. spared, his sister’s Roseburg home
Drive area was largely under water, The notorious 1964 flood was on Ballf Street flooded enough to
Legion Field was surrounded by hardly the first of its kind in Dou- send her refrigerator floating.
water which spilled from the banks glas County. Memorable floods had Though the flooding was sudden
of the South Umpqua across Stew- occurred at intervals before that and severe, the waters receded just
art Park. Water spread across Har- year — in 1950, 1927, 1890, and, as suddenly once the rain stopped,
vard Avenue and down into Fre- also memorably, in 1861. However, and Murphy found he could travel
mont Junior High School and the a number of factors coincided to just about anywhere. Cleaning up
surrounding homes. make the 1964 flood particularly the wreckage left in the wake of the
Rick Watkins, who is now a part damaging. flood would take significantly
owner of Rick’s Medical Supply, As Laverne Murphy, 94, recalls, longer.
was home from the University of increasing snowmelt runoff from “It rained for four days without
Oregon for Christmas break when the mountains combined with sev- stopping ... I’ve always said — and
the flooding began. He soon found eral days of torrential downpours I’ve lived right here for, well, since
his help was needed in the family and high tides created the condi- 1923 — I’ve never seen very many
business, Walt’s Towing and Ambu- tions that led to the flooding. rains that just ... never stop,” Mur-
lance Service. “The temperature went up above phy said. “From what I’ve ever
“We worked well with the police 50 degrees clear up to the Diamond seen in my lifetime, when you just
departments at that time, and they Lake area, and so the mountains in get a break for a couple of hours it
needed help because they were that area is what brought the water makes a difference in the rising
evacuating people, and my job was People had the messy job of cleaning their homes after the Dec. 23, down, and at the same time we had water, you know, because it isn’t
to stand over there on Harvard near 1964, flood left silt a foot deep in some buildings. an extremely high tide on the just a steady downpour.”
Stewart Parkway and to ask people coast,” said the Umpqua resident.
not to travel on out Harvard,” standing on top of his car hollering lances came the next morning, “The high tide kept the river from • Christian Bringhurst is a for-
Watkins said. “We had one guy that for help.” when he was called to help evacu- expelling any water.” mer reporter and city editor at The
didn’t believe me ... and he drove The man was ultimately rescued ate Curry Manor in Garden Valley. Murphy listened carefully to News-Review who now teaches lan-
out there in a big old Oldsmobile, by boat. Watkins’ first experience The home was without power or news of the rising waters, at one guage arts at Camas Valley Charter
and the next thing you know he was driving one of the family ambu- heat for its elderly residents. Rose- point warning fellow Umpqua resi- School.

U N I TA R I A N U N I V E R S A L I S M
is a caring, open-minded religion that encourages you to seek your
own spiritual path. Our faith draws on many religious sources, wel-
coming people with different beliefs. We are united by shared
values, not by creed or dogma. Our congregations are places
where people gather to nurture their spirits and put their
faith into action by helping to make our communities—and
the world—a better place.
Sunday Services 10:30am
Rev. Annie Holmes, Minister
2167 NW Watters, Roseburg, OR 541-672-2250
www.umpquauuchurch.org
THE ORTHODOX
of the
CHRISTIANS Roseburg area
Welcome You!
Christ is in our midst! Discover the foundations of the
Christian faith in the Orthodox Christian Church. Celebrate
the seasons of the Church year. Reader’s services are offered in English in an upper
room chapel at St. George Episcopal Church, 1024 SE Cass St. in Roseburg. Join us
for worship one Sunday each month at 10 AM. (Dates vary)
Call for details:
Jo Ann Kluge 817-2229 • 459-1948 John Trotogott 672-3113

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 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 9

THE RIVERS

CRAIG REED/The News-Review

The North Umpqua River that flows in the shadows in the background provides water that irrigates a pasture for livestock grazing and silage that is stored in
the white bags for winter feed. This pasture is just off North Bank Road.

Rivers fuel farm, ranch production

Seasonal fluctuations in
volume affect how
much water is available
for crops
CHRISTIAN BRINGHURST
For The News-Review
draw their farms’ sustenance from
the rivers, nourishing the pears,
peaches, carrots and cucumbers that
furnish produce stands throughout
the area each year.
“We have one pump in the North
Umpqua River and we have three
pumps in the South Umpqua,”
Kruse said. “Of course, the North
Umpqua is a lot more reliable
because of better flow.”
“We are able to kind of anticipate in
the spring when we plant what the
conditions might be, and we try not
to plant a crop that is dependent on
water late in the season on the prop-
erty that has the water right that
isn’t worth much.”
Irrigators must obtain a water
right in order to draw water for their
crops. When water use must be cur-
tailed, property owners with the old-
then all of our cole crops: cabbage
and cauliflower and broccoli and all
that,” said Kruse, adding that car-
rots and rutabagas also require large
amounts of water.
As for Brosi, he said his oldest
water rights date back to the 1920s
or ’30s, although his youngest right
is considerably newer — from about
1975. He too tries to limit the crops
he plants on land served by the
Both Brosi and Kruse pay for a
supplemental contract through the
county that allows them to draw
extra water from the river that has
been released from Galesville
Reservoir, where water from a
South Umpqua tributary, Cow
Creek, is stored.
Ranchers like Troy and Holly
Michaels of Days Creek rely on the
South Umpqua River to water the

T
hrobbing with vigor and
life as it wends its way
through field and forest, the
Umpqua River system
could be likened to a vast circula-
tory network that delivers its pre-
cious lifeblood to the ranches and
farms of Douglas County.
Farmers like Roseburg’s Don
Kruse and Winston’s Mark Brosi
Unfortunately this vast circulato-
ry system — particularly its south-
ern stem — suffers from seasonal
fluctuations in flow volume that
affect how much water is available
to the likes of Kruse and Brosi.
“Some years we are really
restricted on our irrigating because
of low flow,” said Kruse, adding,
est water rights are the last to get
their water access cut; thus, their
water right is more valuable than a
newer one.
“The crops that need water in our
operation right through the season
and require quite a lot of water are
crops like summer squash and
cucumbers, peppers, corn ... and
newer water rights to ones that won’t
need watering late in the season.
“Usually they cut us off on one
piece (of property) where I have
some pears, and usually about the
time they cut us off we’re just about
done with pears,” Brosi said. “But
it’s kind of planning, too — you
gotta plan ahead.”
pastures that fatten their livestock
— some 250 sheep and 200 head of
cattle, in the Michaelses’ case. They
irrigate their 120 acres with water
from the South Umpqua and a cou-
ple of streams that run through their
property.
Turn to IRRIGATION, page 11

River is valuable in many ways r!

WEB BRIGGS
w e
As told to Craig Reed
Po
For The News-Review

cle
Swimming, fishing, wash-
ing, irrigating — all those
ecy
activities involved the South
Umpqua River as it flowed for
about a mile along the edge of to use your R
the Briggs Ranch in south
Douglas County.
I used to swim in it. The
family used to soak and wash
wooden prune trays in the
river.
I think we take it for grant- Don’t forget to reduce, reuse,
ed, we all have. The South
Umpqua has been a very
and recycle to
friendly river. It’s been avail-
able. It’s been valuable to us
“Trash Douglas County Less”
here. You can’t put a dollar
value on it.
We used the river to our
advantage. It’s been a source
of income, whether growing
an acre or two or more of veg-
etables, a 4-H animal or more CRAIG REED/The News-Review
It’s F R E E !
It’s CLEAN!
Web Briggs has ranched along the South Umpqua River for
Turn to BRIGGS, page 10 most of his 84 years.

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541-672-4732 More information at RecyclePower.org

Page 10–Umpqua Edition
This photo of the sun rising over the North Umpqua River was taken from the backyard deck of the Schulz home off Echo Drive. The
photo earned a third place at the Douglas County Fair.
‘This is where we
are meant to be’
HELEN SCHULZ
For The News-Review
ov. 7, 2009 ... the day my
N
husband, Bob, and I
moved to and fell in love
with the North Umpqua
River. Actually, it had real-
ly lured us in the few years prior to
this date, as we had visited several
times our dear friends, who lived
on the river. On each occasion, we
reveled in its natural beauty, yet
hadn’t known how drawn in we
were becoming. Since that date, we
feel such a sense of new spirit and
enthusiasm, that we know the
move from Southern California
was the perfect one for us.
The views from our deck over-
looking the river, quite often take
our breath away.
THE RIVERS
Bob, being the early bird, has
captured many magnificient sunris-
es,with our little digital camera, but
this one, in all its colorful splendor,
is our all-time favorite...almost
makes me wish I could enjoy rising
this early to share these moments.
The river definitely has its own
sounds, rhythms that lull us to
sleep at night and make us feel so
blessed to be a part of its life.
One of our new hobbies is spot-
ting Bald Eagles, Heron, ducks,
Canadian geese and Osprey carry-
ing fish. All are also part of this
wild and scenic river.
I take great delight in taking and
sharing photos of families, as they
shout with glee, while navigating
the rapids below us. We too, have
fished and rafted the river and feel
the same exhilaration.
Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010
Briggs:
River has
created jobs
Continued from page 9
livestock. It’s provided a lot
of water to places along the
river. It’s increased the carry-
ing capacity by maybe 30
percent for cattle and sheep
on ground along the river.
The river was there and it’s
been used. It created jobs in a
lot of different ways.
The Umpqua River has
favorable soil on both sides
of it in many areas as it flows
to the sea. Prunes and other
fruit trees were first planted
on much of this land along
with grain and hay. Very little
water was needed for prunes.
During the Depression of
the 1930s, hundreds of peo-
ple were needed to pick the
prunes. Nobody made enough
to save much money, but they
did eat well.
They tried floating logs
down it, but that didn’t work
well.
After World War II, alu-
minum pipe and electric
pumps became available and
many of the orchards were
removed and other crops took
their place. With the Umpqua
River running near by and
electricity available, more
jobs were again available to
families.
Row crops, needing irriga-
tion, and hand harvesting of
crops like pole beans, sweet
corn and cane berries provid-
ed work. There was also
alfalfa and row crops such as
strawberries and tomatoes.
Many hundreds of acres of
pasture and hay are also irri-
gated from the Umpqua
River.
From the ’50s on, more
water has been removed from
the river by an increasing
number of irrigation units as
the area developed and more
homes were built along the
river. With the increase in
population, the river has been
used in one way or another.
I was a member of the
Douglas County Water Advi-
Photo courtesy of BOB SCHULZ
sory Board when Galesville
Reservoir was built. That was
a good move for south coun-
ty and provided a lot more
water year round.
Water doesn’t come before
air, but the river has been an
asset. If not for it, there
would be a lot of dry land
down here. It’s been very
valuable. You can’t put a
value on it. It’s valuable for
the property it enhances, it’s
“
valuable for the fish it’s
home to, it’s valuable for
agricultural irrigation, it’s
provided water for mill
Our two sons, from Southern
California, have visited us several
The views from ponds, it’s provided jobs.
our deck People have benefitted
times and now also share our love because of the river and its
overlooking the
for the river, especially since their water.
last fishing trip with a guide, when
river quite often The river has been a valu-
they caught and released 12 steel- able asset and will continue
head. The one measured 40” and
was the largest ever seen by the
take our breath to be if we treat it properly.
away. Douglas County is lucky to
guide. They hope their next fishing have the versatility of this
trip next week will be as success-
body of water running
ful. through the county to the
Helen Schulz
The landscape of the North sea.
Glide
Umpqua, as we view it from near
”
Whistler’s Bend Park, is forever Web Briggs is a Douglas
changing, creating art in its purest
County native, having lived
form. We feel such a spiritual con- on the Briggs Ranch that
nection with our river that we are
borders on the South
now true keepers of the river and Umpqua River for all of his
want to help preserve it for future
84 years.
generations.
We love it here and know this is
‘where we are meant to be’.
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with a dream to connect with the land or perhaps a
designed, manufactured, sold and serviced. That’s how we know exactly which Kubota you
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 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition
Angling opportunities abound
From spring chinook to
winter steelhead, fishing
adventures await
CRAIG REED
The News-Review
There’s hardly a time during the
year that fish can’t be caught in Dou-
glas County.
The spring chinook are one of the
most abundant fish in the Umpqua.
The salmon enter the Umpqua River
from March through June, hold in
deep pools during July and August
and spawn in September and Octo-
ber. Springers can weigh in at up to
40 pounds.
The South Umpqua River, the
mainstem Umpqua and the Smith
River contain most of the fall chi-
nook. When fall rains increase the
water level and cool the water tem-
perature, the fish begin to move
upstream very rapidly.
The South Umpqua is closed to
angling, but the main stem Umpqua
River and Smith River estuary pro-
vide excellent angling opportuni-
ties.
The summer steelhead run is
composed of both wild and hatchery
fish. The best fishing for summer
steelhead is from June to October.
They average 6 to 8 pounds in size.
Fly-fishing for summer steelhead
is popular on the North Umpqua,
especially in the 33 miles of fly-
angling-only from Rock Creek
upriver to Soda Springs Dam.
Winter steelhead are present in
the North, South Umpqua and main
stem Umpqua rivers and in the
Smith River. They begin their
migration from the ocean in
November. January through March
are the best fishing months.
The North Umpqua and Smith
River have healthy runs of wild
winter steelhead. The South
Umpqua has both wild and hatchery
runs. The total steelhead run is esti-
mated to be more than 25,000 fish
in the Umpqua Basin during most
years.
A large North Umpqua wild fish
can weigh in at more than 12
pounds. The South Umpqua fish
average 7 to 10 pounds.
All wild winter steelhead must be
released, except in the North
Umpqua where the bag limit is one
per day, five per year.
Coho, also known as silvers, are
Irrigation: Rivers provide
water for livestock and crops
Continued from page 9
“In the river system we’ve
had no trouble,” Troy
Michaels said. “Our water
rights are old enough that we
have never been shut down
by the water master. Howev-
er, we also irrigate out of
some streams, and we have
trouble starting about mid-
August through the rest of
the season until we get sig-
nificant rain in the fall.”
At such times, the
Michaelses have a couple of
options: They may move the
livestock from the stream-fed
property to a parcel irrigated
off of the South Umpqua, or
they may supplement those
animals’ diet with hay until
they are ready for market.
Troy said their animals need
138 &5,,3%26)#%3)4%3
sHOLE s&IRERINGS
PUTTINGGREEN s#ODEDRESTROOMAND
ETHANOLFUELAND
s7ATER LAUNDRYFACILITIES
s3EWER s&REE7I&I
Fishermen spend an afternoon on the Umpqua River near River Forks Park.
Fish head up through the ladder at Winchester Dam.
to gain weight over the last
100 days of their lives, and
they can’t do that on dry
grass alone.
“I guess being able to irri-
gate gives us, in our case,
additional marketing
options,” Troy said. “We’re
doing grass finishing on our
animals, and so the irrigation
extends our green forage pro-
duction and allows us to mar-
ket animals several additional
months.”
Without the ability to irri-
gate, the Michaelses would
not be able to raise as many
animals for market.
Brosi said the public needs
to be aware of the importance
of irrigation to local agricul-
tural producers, and take
steps to ensure the water will
be there in the future as Dou-
/0%.9%!22/5.$
"/!4-//2!'%3,)03
s7ATERANDELECTRICITY
s,AUNCHFACILITIES
sSELF
THE RIVERS
E
Photo courtesy of Mike and Carol Poe
glas County’s population
grows — along with its water
needs.
“You know, they were
going to do this Days Creek
dam a long time ago ... that
probably would have been
one of the best things that
ever happened for a water
source around here,” Brosi
said. “Douglas County’s a
very rich agricultural area;
there’s a lot of potential here.
People need to think about
getting that huge source of
water further on down the
road.”
• Christian Bringhurst is a
former reporter and city edi-
tor for The News-Review who
now works as a language
arts teacher at Camas Valley
Charter School.
s.ON
PROPANESTATIONOPENFOR
Roseburg, Oregon, Page 11
MICHAEL SULLIVAN/News-Review file photo
found throughout the Umpqua lasting through May when the fish
River system. An adult Umpqua are actively feeding. The best bait is
Basin coho averages 10 pounds. salmon eggs, worms or small flies
Hatchery coho are available for har- that match whatever is hatching on
vest from August to November. shore at the time. Lures also can
Sockeye salmon are a rarity in the bring success.
Umpqua River system, but there are Anglers should check sport
a few. Landlocked “kokanee” are angling regs to determine fishing
found in Lemolo and Hemlock gear restrictions.
lakes. Cutthroat trout are found through-
Rainbow trout is the species of out the entire Umpqua Basin. The
trout most commonly stocked in the average size of the resident adult is
Umpqua River system. The reser- 6 to 8 inches while those cutthroat
voirs are stocked annually with that migrate to the ocean and then
about 30,000 hatchery rainbow return upriver average 16 inches.
trout of legal size (8 to 12 inches) The uppermost section of the
just prior to spring vacation in North Umpqua and Lemolo and
March. Fish stocking continues into Toketee reservoirs are home to
June and again in late August. brown trout. The average size of an
Best trout fishing is in early
spring, beginning in March and Turn to FISH, page 16
njoy coming home to...
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Page 12–Umpqua Edition
Kyle Henrikson of Roseburg rides his pontoon raft down through the whitewater of the upper North Umpqua River earlier this summer.
Umpqua rafting
offers both
thrills and spills
ROBIN HENRIKSON
For The News-Review
surprised even myself when I
I agreed to a family rafting trip
on the North Umpqua River
over the Fourth of July week-
end this year.
I’ve never been one to enjoy
swimming, floating or boating in
the river, so everyone was some-
what impressed by my decision.
The dread of drowning and the fear
of what may be lurking in the
depths has always kept me a dry-
lander. Now, don’t get me wrong. I
value the absolute beauty and tran-
quility of the river, but I value it
from the river bank.
The day started out full of fun
with the promise of adventure. I
really felt quite at ease as we chat-
ted and enjoyed each other’s com-
pany and the scenery of the mighty
Umpqua. There were eight of us —
three in one raft and five in the
other. My son was the most experi-
enced and he navigated the rapids
and channels well, giving advice
and guidance throughout the early
part of the day. Random conversa-
tions were occasionally interjected
with a reminder of safety.
The serenity of the river and the
splendor of the surrounding forest
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I pushed and
fought to get out
from under the
raft, trying
to hold my breath
as best I could.
Robin Henrikson
Roseburg
”
were magnificent.
The cool water splashed us all
and kept us refreshed as the sum-
mer sun beat down. Osprey soared
overhead and swallowtail butter-
flies fluttered on the shoreline. We
enjoyed a picnic lunch in the shade
of the trees on a convenient picnic
table. The day seemed about as
relaxing as a day can get.
After lunch, we, once again,
but once...
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THE RIVERS
secured our life jackets and set out
down river. The approaching rapids
were powerful and demanded our
respect. Maneuvering over and
through the boulders kept me a little
on edge as we drifted. We seemed to
be doing well and my son proved
his ability until at one rapid, he
announced, “Hold on.” I turned just
in time to see a massive rock that
we were about to hit sideways.
The raft shifted and the left side
went under and was swamped with
water. I knew we were going over.
I mentally prepared myself to swim
and to make it to shore.
The rushing sound of water and
the white bubbly rapids surrounded
me. I expected to come to the sur-
face at any moment, but as I ana-
lyzed the situation, I realized I was
under the raft and could not reach
the surface. A million thoughts
raced through my mind. Where is
my family? Are my son and daugh-
ter under the raft too? Does anyone
know where I am? Can this really
be happening? How do I get to the
surface? I knew I shouldn’t have
ever done this!
I pushed and fought to get out
from under the raft, trying to hold
my breath as best I could. Sudden-
ly, I emerged, gasping for air. I
could see my son just out of reach,
For more information, call 541.673.3711
Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010
Photos courtesy of SHELBY HENRIKSON
situ-
Keith Henrikson, left, Brandon Anderson, Leo Onderko and
Charlene Henrikson enjoy North Umpqua River whitewater.
and I could hear my daughter
yelling. I struggled to swim and ation. After recovering for a short
catch my breath, but the more I time, we were coaxed back in the
tried, the more water I seemed to raft for a short distance until we
swallow. I remembered the advice came to a safe departure point.
about floating feet first and knew The scenic beauty of the
that I needed to calm down. Umpqua River is but one of its
Another rapid was fast approach- qualities. Its sheer strength and
ing, and I could see my daughter power are to be respected and not
trying to reach me. She somehow be taken for granted. I appreciate
managed to pull me to shore, and I both of these, but from now on, I’ll
could see my son safely on the stick to my appreciation from the
other side. The other raft was close bank.
behind and by the time they
approached, I was on the water’s Robin Henrikson is a resident of
edge trying to regain my compo- the Melrose area. Her daughter,
sure. My daughter’s leg was photographer Shelby Henrikson,
gashed from hitting something and will be a senior at Sutherlin High
we were both overwhelmed by the School this fall.
Saturday & Sunday,
11th & 12th
of September, 2010
10am to 4pm
 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition
Dad Jack Hughes, left, mom Mabel Hughes and their grown kids Trudi Moore, Jill Waltenspiel and Jack Hughes posed for
a photo at a family reunion in 2000 on Dry Creek, a tributary of the South Umpqua River.
My river childhood ...
I was blessed
The river in the
winter is exciting and
life affirming
JILL HUGHES WALTENSPIEL
For The News-Review
was almost 7 years old
I that spring my grandfa-
ther, Pop, discovered ura-
nium in Quartz Creek
which feeds into the South
Umpqua River.
Pop converted three school
buses into early day Winnaba-
gos, and in March, we cara-
vaned up the river — our
family, the Lean brothers and
Pop. And thus began my life-
long love of the South
Umpqua River.
That spring we started our
camping adventure where
Quartz Creek empties into the
South Umpqua. It wasn’t long
until the men discovered the
uranium was not of a quality
to interest the government.
The dream of great riches was
lost for the adults, but we
children were sure we had
died and gone to heaven.
There were four of us, Jack-
ie, Jill, Wes and Trudi, plus
Mom and Dad, living in that
tiny school bus. Mom intro-
duced us to the world of
books, card games and radio
drama programs. It was the
only way to maintain her san-
ity with all of us cooped up in
the bus the few times we
absolutely could not be out-
side.
We were only allowed to
camp in a spot for a short
time on the river, so as the
weeks progressed, we moved
several times. We discovered
the wonders of Toppling
Rock, one of the best swim-
ming holes on the river. It was
very popular and our bus and
whatever rig Dad was driving,
took up most of the limited
parking space, so we only
stayed there a few days before
moving a short way to our
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www.purplefootgang.com
next stop at Francis Creek. It
wasn’t as inviting a swim-
ming hole, but the beach, the
privacy and the wonderful
woods and hideouts made it
another great stopping spot
and we could walk to Top-
pling Rock from there.
Our next move was down-
river a couple miles to The
Hole. This time we were able
to stay for quite awhile, in
fact, until the river moved us.
And that was where Dad built
the outhouse. Up until that
time, we would take the shov-
el and head for the woods if
we needed to answer the call
of nature.
Friends of Mom and Dad,
Dorothy and Earl, came to
visit and she was appalled at
the thought of squatting in the
woods and gave Dad a lot of
grief over the lack of facili-
ties. They were coming back
the next weekend and Dad
promised he’d take care of the
problem before then. When
they came back, Dad proudly
led Dorothy — with the rest
of us tagging along — out to
the “facilities.”
Dad had nailed a two-by-
four between two trees and
hung a rope from a branch.
He explained that you
grabbed onto the rope and
swung up onto the two-by-
four and did your business.
Then, you swung back out on
the rope, dropping a distance
from the board. Not too long
after that, Dad’s ex-relative-
by-marriage, Levi, brought us
a real outhouse.
We ran wild that year, with
the river being our baby sitter.
We would go to the river first
thing in the morning to wash
our faces and brush our teeth.
Our drinking water came out
of Dry Creek that ran into the
river next to the bus. We also
caught crawdads in that creek,
and had a wooden slat box in
the icy water to keep our milk
and butter cold. If we weren’t
in the water, we were playing
on the sandy beach or explor-
In conjunction with
4th, 2010Ultimate Triathlon
Umpqua
THE RIVERS
ing the woods we lived in.
The river was home to tur-
tles, eels, raccoons, hundreds
of minnows that nibbled our
feet, us kids and Pop’s dog,
Jerry. Jerry was water spaniel
of some sort and would dive
for rocks, and continue to
dive until he found the rock
that was thrown. Well, maybe
it was a different rock, but
Pop always insisted it was the
exact rock that had been
thrown for him.
I guess we must have all
learned to swim while living
at The Hole, although I don’t
remember learning. It just
seems we all knew how. The
deep water and shallow water
was divided at that spot by a
long narrow “island reef”
where dozens of turtles would
sun themselves.
We were allowed to play in
the shallow water whether
there was an adult present or
not, but never were we to go
to the other side of the reef
unless Mom or Dad or some
other responsible adult was
there to watch us. On that
side, the water was so deep
we could not dive to the bot-
tom, although back then the
river was so clean and clear
that lying on an inner tube,
you could see clearly to the
bottom. I’m not sure why
Mom had to be there since
she only learned to swim that
summer after throwing her
inner tube to one of the many
children that were always
underfoot. She then swam to
shore and was amazed that
she “knew how to swim.”
That winter the river came
up around the bus and we had
to move out in the middle of
the night.
To me, there are few things
as exciting and life affirming
as the river in the winter when
it roars out of its banks, carry-
ing anything and everything
along with it. In my child-
hood, huge trees would be
uprooted and carried along.
From that time, until I was in
Photo courtesy of Jill Waltenspiel
my thirties, I always lived
either within sight or walking
distance of the South Umpqua
River. And at least once more
in those years, the river roared
to life and encouraged us to
move quickly in the middle of
the night.
To this day, I love the river
in the winter when it throws
its head up and struts its stuff.
I hope it is never dammed.
Something that wild and
beautiful deserves to run free.
Yes, I believe our family
was the first hippies on the
river — and the word had not
yet been invented.
Jill Waltenspiel moved off
the South Umpqua River in
1978 and now lives in the
Oakland area. However, she
still has family that lives on
the river, and visits it fre-
quently.
Fun and exciting
monthly events
all year long.
Check our
website often
for updates...
Don’t miss out!
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UMPQUA VALLEY
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The river of dreams:
A life is saved
Desperate plea for
help answered by
12-year-old girl
JERRY CHARTIER
For The News-Review
A portion of the North
Umpqua River at Idleyld Park
east of Glide squeezes into a
turbulent narrow channel,
rightfully named “The Nar-
rows.”
On any other day,
bystanders would watch in
awe at the rumbling water
cascading into a powerful
force as it entered the chan-
nel, exploding outward into a
powerful Class 5 rapid at the
outshoot. But not on this day
On this day, a 12-year-old
girl, suffering from spina-bif-
feta, who herself had a diffi-
cult time walking, would be
standing downstream at a
pool’s edge, enjoying her first
day of living on the river. Jen-
nifer’s parents had just moved
into their new house that
overlooked the river and the
lower end of The Narrows.
No, this day would not be like
any other, not for Jennifer and
not for a 7-year-old boy who
was fishing upstream with his
father.
As Jennifer knelt by the
calming water, listening to the
deafening rumble of the near-
by pounding rapid, she sud-
denly heard the desperate plea
for help and saw a young boy
come shooting out of the tur-
bulence. He had fallen off the
rocks at the channel’s upper
end. The boy was in serious
trouble.
Without thinking of her
own condition, Jennifer dove
into the water, grabbed the
boy as the powerful force
sucked them both under.
Pulling the boy toward her
she swam away from the
strong current to the pool side
rocks, where she held the boy
by one hand and the rocks by
the other, yelling for help
until it came.
She had without doubt
pulled a life from the river.
My life has been blessed. I
have met many wonderful
people in my lifetime. There
Roseburg, Oregon, Page 13
are few
moments,
and for
that matter,
opportuni-
ties to do
good for
others as
this
moment
afforded.
Chartier It was
1984,
declared by President Ronald
Reagan as “the year of the
handicapped child.” I was the
Boatman family Realtor. Mr.
Boatman called me the next
day to tell me what had hap-
pened on their first day at the
property. I immediately drove
to Idleyld Park to see Jennifer
and talk with the family.
In my conversation with
Jennifer, she spoke of a wish
she had to meet with Presi-
dent Reagan because he
seemed to care so much about
“children with handicaps” or
as she called them, “chal-
lenges in their lives.” It was
in that moment I realized that
with the right effort, Jen-
nifer’s dream could become a
reality.”
In the next few weeks, I
made lots of phone calls and
wrote a letter to the president
about Jennifer’s actions. U.S.
Senators Mark Hatfield and
Bob Packwood helped with the
Washington, D.C., planning;
the CEO of Northwest Orient
Airlines gave free airfare tick-
ets to the family to and from
Portland; and the people of
this community that I love so
much donated $3,000 to the
Jennifer Boatman fund —
“Just for her!”
Months later when I vis-
ited Jennifer and her family
at their home, Jennifer took
down a photo of her and
President Reagan, standing
side-by-side, shaking hands
at the stage podium in the
Capitol Building, her metal
for bravery hanging around
her neck.
The river had played its part
in making a little girl’s dream
come true.
Jerry Chartier of Roseburg
is a semi-retired realtor.
Page 14–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS

Photo by David Trigg of Roseburg

A view to the west across the South Umpqua River from the southern tip of Elk Island.

Photo Gallery
Readers who also like to take photos responded to The News-Review’s
request for photos of the Umpqua River system with about 100 submis-
sions. This page and the opposite page feature some of those photos.
The Readers’ Choice Award goes to David Trigg of Roseburg for his
photo of the South Umpqua River taken from the most southern tip of Elk
Island. Online voting determined the winner of this award. Trigg’s photo
is featured above.
The Judge’s Choice Award, determined by News-Review photographer
Michael Sullivan, goes to Anjolie Mehcam of Roseburg for her picture of
the South Umpqua River at Stewart Park. Her photo is featured on the fol-
lowing page.

Photo by Sara Heppner-Lauritzen of Roseburg

South Umpqua Falls fun! My little cousin, Payton, riding his noodle down the falls.

Photo by John Scheleen of Roseburg

North Umpqua River just above Deadline Falls.

Photo by Joseph Fiddy of Roseburg

North Umpqua River at 7:16 a.m. in December 2009. Photo by Norma Townsend of Roseburg
My husband fishing at dusk on the North Umpqua.

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Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 15
THE RIVERS

Phillip Bean of Tyee

Winter freeze on the main Umpqua River at Tyee.

Scott Carson of Myrtle Creek

Early morning fishing on the North Umpqua River at Swiftwater.

Photo by Anjolie Mehcam of Roseburg

The South Umpqua River at Stewart Park.
Lynette Nirenberg of Roseburg
Moonglow on the main Umpqua River.

Photo by Peter Decius of Glide

Lone Rock Bridge on Highway 138 over the North Umpqua in Glide.
Photo by John Scheleen of Roseburg
Falls on the North Umpqua River above Toketee Falls.

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 Page 16–Umpqua Edition
A cable stretched across the main Umpqua River and the current helped propel ferries. In this photo, circa 1915, the
Model T of Siren Madison and his son, Edgar, is carried across the river on Howard’s Ferry in the Kellogg area.
Memories of ferries and rowboats
KENNETH KOBBE
The News-Review
Farms were developed
along the Umpqua River
because of the fertile and
productive soil.
Many of these farms were
on the “other side” of the
river where there were no
roads. The only connection
to cross the river from Tyee
Road to the outside area was
by ferry and rowboat.
When I think of the
Swagger
JOSEPH FEDERICO
For The News-Review
Mountainsplitting North
Umpqua River
recently weakened, made
gaunt
by weeks of early spring
sunshine
now welcomes another day-
long rain,
the fourth in a row,
a river waving at April’s
showers
come steady now in early
May,
replacing quiet surface rocks
with rough-and-tumble
rapids,
each a white-robed hallelu-
jah choir
praising a river now full of
itself,
regaining speed strength
swagger.
Siltsoaked river running
clear to the ocean,
flaunting its growing girth to
oaks
and osprey alike, calling out,
shouting “Rain, send more
rain”
for as it gives, so must it
receive; dependent on rain
in all
its forms, river sweet-talks
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Umpqua River, it brings back
memories from the mid ’30s
when our family would visit
or do trading with families
on the other side of the river.
Rowboats were kept on each
side of the river so visitors
had a boat to row across.
This was very exciting to me,
and on one occasion a cow
was delivered on the ferry.
Ferryboats were propelled
across streams by using the
flow of current as power. The
ferry was fastened to a cable
incoming clouds with white-
water choruses
that are really rumbles of
delight while being prickled
and pocked
by raindrops in the soft rinse
mists of another all-rain day.
Editor’s Note — Joseph
Federico, a 10-year resident of
Roseburg, lives on the North
Umpqua River just off North
Bank Road. He was born in
New York, worked his profes-
sional life in Chicago and
retired to the “beautiful and
unspoiled” landscape of Dou-
glas County.
“This is like everything I
dreamed of,” he said of living
alongside the North Umpqua.
“Everything here promotes
life. The whole banana belt
idea is true.”
Federico is a member of a
local writing group and has
written two books of poetry.
One is titled, “Songs of the
Umpqua,” and consists of
nature poems.
“There’s endless (poem)
material here,” said Federico.
“I could drive that road (North
Bank) every day and get a
poem every day because of all
the different looks, it changes
every day.”
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Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010
THE RIVERS
Twenty years of work
created 79-mile trail
The News-Review
Published June 6, 1997
SWIFTWATER PARK —
Sunny skies, a rushing river,
deep forests and an open trail:
the conditions in early June in
1997 were perfect for the dedi-
cation of the North Umpqua
Trail.
The trail is a 79-mile path
that hugs the banks of the
North Umpqua River from here
to Maidu Lake in the Cascades.
More than 50 people attend-
ed the ceremony, which was
led by Forest Service, Bureau
of Land Management and
Douglas County officials.
But bureaucrats weren’t the
stars during the one-hour cere-
mony, which included the
unveiling of a commemorative
plaque at the trailhead.
The day belonged to the
handful of local hikers and
Photo courtesy of Kenneth Kobbe
outdoor enthusiasts who con-
ceived the trail idea, then
labored over two decades to
gain support for it.
“It was the dedication of the
volunteers working together
that helped us sell that trail to
the powers that be and get
funding to complete that trail,”
Dave Baker of the Roseburg
stretched across the river. direction. Manpower was District-Bureau of Land Man-
Pulleys were placed on the applied to the cable during
cables. Manila lines wrapped low water when there was
around the boat banisters not much current.
controlled its direction.
By shortening the ropes at
In 1937, the original Bul-
lock bridge was built where
Fish: Main, South rivers
one end and lengthening at
the opposite end, the ferry
Highway 138 meets the
Umpqua River west of home to smallmouth bass
was placed at an angle, forc- Sutherlin, then over the next
Continued from page 11
ing the current to move it two years the Civilian Con-
sideways across the river. servation Corps built con-
To return to the opposite necting roads. This removed
adult brown is 10 to 14 inch-
side, the lines were reversed, a large hardship for the farm-
es, but some grow into the
forcing the current to move ers’ activities.
20-inch range.
the boat in the opposite
A good population of
CRAIG REED/The News-Review
The North Umpqua River inspires Joseph Federico to write poems about the waterway and
the area.
to foggy fitting room,
Bluegrey sheath exclaiming, “Look at this
bluegrey sheath,
how the colors change under
JOSEPH FEDERICO Umpqua riverbanks
the lights”
For The News-Review like heaven-sent lipsticks
Painterfog drifting upstream And then again, “See how
Exposing a changed river
unwraps its watercolor kit character, this tealgreen gown flows
on Whistler’s Bend bluffs, when I move, shows my
from mountain runoff
spreading promises of day- roughneck curves,”
long makeovers slowing only to try on
to Rodeo Drive ingenue on a
to a December drab river shopping spree another ensemble
that leaps at the chance and primp past my picture
littering the landscape floor
drawn to the palette offered with quick change outfits window again,
by midday sun and backlit adjusting its seams,
discarded after each wisp of
mists wind or arc of sun, asking my opinion
rolling from the tube of flitting from backlit mirror as if I could speak
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agement said during the cere-
mony.
The North Umpqua Trail
passes through lands managed
by the Douglas County Park
Department, BLM and Forest
Service.
The multi-use trail is open to
hikers, backpackers, horse rid-
ers and mountain bikers. It is
one of a handful of trails in the
nation that connects an urban
area with a wilderness.
It was also the dream of one
man: Jack Glover, a retired
Roseburg graphic artist who
was the trail’s staunchest
booster and builder.
Glover died in 1996 at the
age of 80. Jim Glover, his son,
attended the ceremony and
helped unveil the plaque.
Glover said his father was a
humble man who shied away
from taking credit for the trail.
“He would have said, ‘Ah, I
didn’t do anything. It couldn’t
have happened without all
these people,’” said Glover.
“He had the idea, but they did
the work.”
“This trail exists because the
citizens want it,” said Don
Ostby, Umpqua National Forest
supervisor. “It’s here because of
the stubborness of people who
didn’t want to give up.”
brook trout exists in the
Clearwater River, a tributary
of the upper North Umpqua
River, near Toketee. Thirteen
high lakes are stocked with
brook trout and provide fish
in the 8- to 12-inch range.
The best concentration of
smallmouth bass is in the
main Umpqua River from
Elkton to the forks of the
North and South Umpqua,
and from the lower South
Umpqua near Roseburg to
Canyonville.
The fish’s average size is
7-10 inches. Smallmouth
bass live near rock structures
and ledges, which provide
protection.
Largemouth bass are con-
centrated in numerous ponds
and valley lakes and reser-
voirs or in such secondary
habitats as sloughs off the
main Umpqua. These fish
average 1 pound. There are
very few upland ponds with-
out largemouth bass.
All local reservoirs have
good numbers of bass for
warm water anglers.
Striped bass roam continu-
ously from fresh water to salt
water and back in the main
Umpqua and lower Smith
River. Striper fishing is best
during the spring months.
Shad are an excellent sport
fish with light gear, small
spinners, jigs and flies pro-
viding the most success. The
main fishery for sport fisher-
men is from River Forks Park
on the Umpqua downriver to
Sawyers Rapids during May
and June.
Other warm water species
like bluegill, crappie and
green sunfish are plentiful in
most reservoirs and ponds.
• You can reach Features
Editor Craig Reed at 541-
957-4210 or by e-mail at
creed@nrtoday.com.
Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition
Justine Bringhurst, 13, floats a tributary of the South Umpqua River at Camp Comfort, above South Umpqua Falls.
Floating the Umpqua
and other adventures
The river provides venues for plenty of cool fun for the family
CHRISTIAN BRINGHURST
The News-Review
t has been almost eight years
I
since I moved to Roseburg to
take a job as a reporter at The
News-Review, and not once
during that time had I floated the
North or South Umpqua rivers.
For eight years I have driven
over hill and dale in Douglas
County, admiring the contours and
colors of the rivers Umpqua in
The South Umpqua Falls provide a cool play area.
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their various seasons, pining for
the day when I would join the
throng of summer rafters I would
often see bobbing along like
multi-colored corks.
It wasn’t until this summer that
I finally took the plunge and float-
ed the storied section of the North
Umpqua between Amacher Park
and Hestnes Landing. Equipped
with a rubber tube for myself and
a one-person inflatable kayak-
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THE RIVERS
Photos courtesy of CHRISTIAN BRINGHURST
set off a couple of hours before
dusk. It had originally been our
intent to go to River Forks, but I
was informed that given our late
start we would likely wind up
floating Sunburn Alley under
moonlight if we tried.
Before leaving we made sure to
stock up on Cheetos, water and
beef jerky, and it is here that I
have to give a plug to the good
people of Bass Pro Shops Uncle
Buck’s Beef Jerky, for not only
did their fine product help sustain
us, but its Ziplock packaging pro-
vided a watertight receptacle for
storing the cell phone and other
valuables we should have left in
the car. Not only that, but I am
now greeted by the savory scent of
hickory-smoked cow every time I
flip open our phone. That’s a qual-
ity product you have there, Bass
Pro Shops.
One of the first discoveries we Darren Bringhurst, 12, leaps into the pool at South Umpqua Falls.
made as we began our journey
was that Mary’s craft made con- entire length of the trip – she pretty sure we both enjoyed the
siderably better time than mine pulling on her one paddle and me float immensely. It’s quite a scenic
did. This was largely due to its gliding contentedly behind her, little trip, though perhaps not so
aero, or rather hydrodynamic hands clasped behind my head as I scenic as the wilder portions
shape, and the fact that she had a admired the scenery floating upriver from Glide. I’ve always
paddle while I was left to flail leisurely by. What can I say … admired the bluffs that rise dra-
about like a high-centered turtle. marriage is bliss. matically above the southwest side
Happily for me, this meant Mary In spite of the rather dispropor-
wound up towing me almost the tionate load my wife carried, I’m Turn to COOL FUN, page 24
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Page 18–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS

Morgan Creek has highs and lows

Tributary has a different
personality, depending
on the season
DEBBIE LEVINGS
For The News-Review
ike most rivers, the

L Umpqua forms from the

joining of various and
smaller waterways.
One flows 50 feet from
my front door: Morgan Creek. Lit-
tle known and unrestrained, it
drains the lowlands of Looking-
glass. It took me a while, but,
eventually, we became friends.
Seventeen years ago we moved
into a century-old house on
acreage that includes a swamp-fed
pond and creek. A good chunk of
our bowl-shaped valley drains into
Morgan Creek
through the
biggest culverts
I’ve ever seen.
It was a clue. I
missed it.
Rains came.
Our modest,
one-acre pond
turned into a
broad, brown,
Levings surging force of
nature headed
for Morgan
Creek. Its little islands disappeared
under water, along with most of
our pastures and a great deal of the
lawn around our house, which now
resembled a ship on the sea. Mean-
while, Morgan Creek jumped its
banks, usurping our fledgling plant
Photo courtesy of DEBBIE LEVINGS
nursery and our large garden.
Small, out-of-season tomatoes and Morgan Creek has a cool, green look during the summer months, but it can get high and out of control during the rainy months.
green peppers joined perennial
plants in black plastic pots bob- now. My husband sank four fence useful items from the debris float- geons, grebes, wood ducks and
bing past our hedge down Dairy posts to tie his bridge to when the ing by and, when the water puddle ducks, mergansers, Egypt-

Loop Road.
I called my husband at work and
he assured me he’d checked things
before he left for work. Everything
was fine.
“Come home!” I said. Sweetly,
I’m sure.
Half an hour later, his sedan put-
tered and choked through the
water, up our driveway. He stared.
“What did you do?” was my
sweet husband’s effort at levity,
standing in a watery disaster,
wearing his good pants.
For the next few days, we
walked our property and watched
the dike of our pond wash down-
“
water comes up. We added gravel
to our driveway so the cars are
higher than the water that would
like to push them into the road.
Our old 4-wheel drive Chevy pick-
up is always fueled up and ready
to roll, pointed out the driveway.
Our house is stocked and ready for
two weeks of living without
amenities. Our hay is stacked no
less than three palettes high,
allowing the water to flow under
it.
We own a few torn and mis-
shapen yellow and orange cones
rescued from the ditches after the
floods and we place them out as
We are seasoned flood-
plainers now. ... Our
house is stocked and
ready for two weeks
of living without
amenities.
Debbie Levings
Lookingglass
recedes, we place them at the end
of our driveway for the owners to
reclaim. Among the recovered are
fenceposts with fencing still
attached, sawhorses, a bright yel-
low trough, a garden gnome and a
white tire with its flowers still rid-
ing inside.
I admit I splashed after some of
my own items, the most aggravat-
ing being the plants in which I
invested three years of time and
growing. Adding insult to my
soggy chugging was my being
passed by the blue sign that until
recently had hung in our nursery
reading “Water Plants.”
ian geese, osprey, kestrels and
hawks, several kinds of woodpeck-
ers, small and large kingfishers,
swallows and swifts, and some-
times a Western bluebird — all
feed, many mate, nest, trot their
babies out the first time. And
every evening from April to Octo-
ber we hear the sound of the buz-
zards bedding down on the branch-
es of their home trees on the banks
of the creek outside our Iiving
room. Their feathers scratch and
rustle trying to fit one more buz-
zard on too short a branch. They
protest with the sound of flight
feathers straining, and finally, the

stream. We invited people in for
hot coffee while they waited for
someone to pick them up after
ignoring the barriers and failing to
ford the deeply sunken roadbed.
We pulled debris out of the deer
fence, most of it belonging to
neighbors upstream. Way
upstream. And we said goodbye to
our second refrigerator and our
freezer as they drowned with our
winter supplies in them.
We are seasoned floodplainers
quickly as the water rises to cover
the road. We own rubber boots
reaching higher up our legs than
most brands. My husband placed a
post in the yard with marks on it
that we can see from our window.
The marks indicate such events as:
“ water flows under house” and
“water reaches floor joists.”
And through all these experi-
ences and training, Morgan Creek
brought us gifts. Over and over
again. When the road floods, my
”
husband and I rotate the love seat
for a full-on view of spectacular
water plumes thrown up by speed-
ing vehicles slamming into two
feet of water. The plumes are most
gorgeous at night illuminated by
headlights. It’s a bit like watching
fireworks. And the coffee is on.
We collect what appear to be
I enjoyed birds before we moved
to Lookingglass, and now I am
immersed in them. Every window
in the house has a pair of binocu-
lars on the sill. With the creek and
our pond surrounding us on three
sides, open fields and brushy
banks as part of the habitat, there
are plenty of birds! Four seasons
of birds!
Blue herons and great egrets fish
for bass that washed downstream
from a neighbor’s pond. Wid-
still, silent, dark forms facing
south when night settles the argu-
ments. A gift from Morgan Creek.
The wildlife. Everything we
wanted to protect we put inside a
deer fence or other barrier. The
rest is open to cohabitation and
cohabit they do. Deer bed down in
our side yard. Raccoons follow the
creek to our back porch to see if
any cat food is left over. Orphan
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 Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 19

THE RIVERS

Could ‘It’s the Water’

be Roseburg’s icon?
Waterfront Development Plan could help attract tourists
RAY SIMS downtown Roseburg would motorist? Would not the theme
For The News-Review level part of this potential “A Mountain Spring in Every
waterfront area, and that later Home” be attractive to those
Douglas County’s Umpqua Safeway and Payless (Rite considering making their
rivers are the source of the Aid) would move on, and home here, and attract the
crystal clear drinking water Hansen Motors would liqui- attention of the traveler to the
that flows out of every tap in date, making ample space great drinking water we take
and around Roseburg. available. It was a good idea for granted?
Could Roseburg be known then but an even better idea Albuquerque, N.M., also
for its now. Tourists could gather at has such a town center focal
water? this central point and find the point.
Could the way to the river’s views, Downtown space is now
Cities refreshing themselves and available for developing the
Waterfront replenishing their ice and trav- waterfront. Several buildings
Develop- el supplies on the way. stand vacant ready to become
ment Plan The City of Roseburg part of a tourist attraction.
on the should be complimented for The Roseburg Visitors and
south side developing this plan. Through Convention Bureau might
of the river its Community Development welcome the challenge of

Sims
near down-
town be
the destina-
tion?
Would it bring the tourists
motoring up and down I-5 into
Roseburg? I think so.
The potential for an
Umpqua Waterfront Project
for downtown Roseburg is
actually unbelievable.
Located just across the river
on Spruce Street a half block
off of Washington Street, the
Roseburg Chamber of Com-
merce Visitors Information
Center is in a perfect position
to be the first focal point of
the waterfront park. It directs
the way to the waterfalls,
lakes, fishing, camping, hik-
ing, wine tours, Diamond
Lake, and the Colliding
Rivers, giving a new meaning
to the slogan “Stay and Play
another Day in Douglas Coun-
ty.”
It may surprise some to
know that 50 years ago,
George Singleton and other
visionaries of that time pro-
posed just such a waterfront
project to the Roseburg Cham-
ber of Commerce Board! I
was a member. The time sim-
ply was not right. Most of the
required land was occupied.
Who would have guessed
that the 1959 Blast that rocked
Department, the Plan can be
viewed at the website
www.cityofroseburg.org/com-
mDevelop/. Just scroll to the
Waterfront Plan, March 31,
2010, Public Forum Presenta-
tion, to view 92 colorful
pages. More information is
available from the City of
Roseburg Community Devel-
opment Department at 541-
492-6750.
Gary Leif, a member of the
Roseburg Downtown Commit-
tee, was quoted in the News-
Review’s April 1 article titled
“Refined Roseburg Waterfront
Plan shared with public”
(www.nrtoday.com/arti-
cle/20100401/NEWS/1004099
99) as saying “I’m still look-
ing for a more iconic view of
Roseburg.” Could “It’s the
Water” be that iconic view for
which Roseburg is known? He
tells about the project many
hope will come to fruition.
Over the years my wife and
I have traveled by car across
this great country of ours.
We’ve learned how important
water is to the vacationing
motorist and the potential
retiree. One Great Plains town
even publicized “Free Water”
in the middle of its downtown,
which was quite an attraction.
Could not Roseburg offer
free water to the traveling
bringing into Roseburg so
many tourists that the vacated Thank you
Safeway-Rite Aid-Hansen
property would be needed for
parking. Retail shops would
for your
fill currently unused spaces,
catering to this trade.
Would it create new jobs?
cooperation
You bet! Besides those in con-
struction, more workers would in helping
be needed in motels, restau-
rants and service stations.
Retail business payrolls would
to conserve
be supported by the tourists.
Would the cost of a water-
front project be funded by
our landfill
property tax payers? I hope
not and it need not be. There resources.
are other funds available.
Some existing motel-hotel tax
revenues are at hand. The HERE’S HOW WE DID IN 2009
City of Roseburg and Dou-
glas County may obtain
development district funds Cardboard ................. 700 tons
that could be applied. The
Ford Family Foundation
might be sympathetic. The Newspaper .............. 190.5 tons
Cow Creek Band of Umpqua
Tribe of Indians have voiced
their support. Plastic ....................... 34.5 tons
If the community stood
behind the Roseburg Chamber
of Commerce, the Waterfront
Aluminum ................... 1.3 tons
Project could happen, improv-
ing the economy and bringing
permanent jobs to the workers
Scrap Metal ............... 206 tons
of Douglas County.
Used Motor Oil ....... 1,106 gals.

Wood Waste ........ 1,780 cu. yds.

HARVARD AVENUE DRUGS

Dear Customer,
50 years ago, my wife and I, and our partner Florence
Groshong, opened our Pharmacy and Gift Store to the
By changing
public.

We reflect back on all those years of long hours

our throw
and hard work and realize that without you,
our faithful customers, and our outstanding away habits,
employees, we could not be where we are today.

We consider ourselves incredibly fortunate to be an we promote

independent business and to serve our community to

P h i l & ow
r
Jo Kaseners the best of our ability.
a healthier
rs and
founde Please know how much we appreciate you as a
customer and know that your business provides our
“Harvard Ave Drugs family” with precious jobs and a
pollution free
hope for a better tomorrow.

Everyone at Harvard Ave Drugs feels blessed to call

environment.
you our customer and friend.
Sincerely,
Phil & Jo Kaser “Recycle, Help the planet survive.”
Pharmacist & Owners

KEEP UP THE
Harvard Ave Drugs & Gifts

GOOD WORK!
Harvard Ave Drugs & Gifts Time Line
Aug 1959 Aug 9th Phil Kaser and Florence Groshong opened Harvard Ave Drugs 2 days after the
infamous “Roseburg Blast”. Due to the emergency of the city, we were asked if we could open early,
even if not quite ready.

Sept 1959 By Sept. we were finally ready to officially have our “Grand Opening”. We had the 1st
Drive Up Prescription window in the State of Oregon. We began as a pharmacy and gift store. The
only days of the year we were closed were Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years.

Phil worked all the hours, as a pharmacy cannot be open unless a pharmacist is on duty. Florence
worked the week days 9-5. Jo, Phil’s wife, would bring his dinner down each day, and would work up
front while he ate dinner and was able to be with his 3 girls.

After the first few years we added an employee, then more as we grew.

Early 1970’s Florence Groshong wanted to retire, so we purchased her share, and became sole owners.
We expanded to twice our size by knocking out a wall and remodeling.

Early 1990’s We were able to occupy the entire building, so again remodeled. At this time, Ron Noel,
835 Sheridan
of West Side Pharmacy wanted to retire, so he contacted us, and we purchased his inventory. We also
thankfully acquired his 541-673-7122
staff and loyal customers.

2009-2010 We have always been at the same address, only expanding to now occupy the entire
building. Our staff has grown to around 20 or more. Even though we are still not completely retired,
we don’t work fulltime.

Thank you family, staff and customers

Phil & Jo Kaser

1175 W. Harvard Ave.

541-672-1961
Monday-Friday 9am-7pm
Saturday 9am-6pm
www.harvardavedrugs.com
 Page 20–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010
THE RIVERS
‘The Umpqua River is literally our backyard and that to me is a treasure in itself.’ — Naomi Congleton, Winston

Umpqua’s Chaise
Congleton, 5,
cools off in
the North
Umpqua
River in this

natural beauty
photo taken
during the
summer of
2009.

... how I see it

NAOMI CONGLETON in Winchester you can get a front
For The News-Review seat to the playground for our local
wildlife such as whitetail deer,

T
he Umpqua River has hawks, all sorts of ducks and geese,
been a part of my life turtles, cranes, as well as local
since birth. freshwater fish.
I was born and raised The Umpqua also provides a
in Douglas County, and sanctuary for some of the most
the Umpqua River system, both amazing species of plants, insects
North and South, have played a big and birds for those who love to view
part in my young life, and now that nature in its natural habitat. You can
I have children I am passing on my also see an occasional river otter or
love of our local wonder. nutria, which I think resemble giant
When I was young my family and water rats.
I often camped along the Umpqua I guess you could say that the
River. It’s a very clean river system. Umpqua River isn’t just a waterway
We enjoyed the fishing. to the ocean but a way of life for my
My family still prefers to camp family and me as well as most
and play along the North Umpqua locals. There are also people who
over any other area in Douglas travel from other states to fish and
County. From viewing wildlife relax on our Umpqua.
The Umpqua River is as
abundant with fresh food, water
and recreation as it is for river-
side hiking trails and a peaceful
solitude that only the Umpqua
River can provide. As well as
being beautiful, the Umpqua
provides a naturally fabulous
backdrop for photographers.
While hiking along the North
Umpqua Trail you can view a
wide variety of local and rare
Autumn Mulvaney, 11, of Winston wildflowers, trees and plants. I
enjoys time on the North Umpqua. once scavenged that trail during
my sixth grade year for flowers
riverside, swimming, gold panning, for my wildflower and leaf collec-
rock collecting, rafting and some of tion. I received a more than accept-
the best fishing in our state, the able grade due to my vast collec-
Umpqua River has everything to tion. This was also the case for my
offer for locals and visitors and is a insect collection in high school.
very valuable asset to locals. I feel Douglas County is an ideal
I remember being a kid wading in place to raise children, not just for
the river and searching for rocks the small community feel, but for
and tadpoles with my cousins and the convenience and accessibility to
friends. Making rope swings, float- the Umpqua River. My husband and
ing down the river in tubes or rafts, I even got married alongside the
and building tiny dams to see how South Umpqua. It was a beautiful
water flows. setting for our special day.
You could live off our local river We are currently learning to fly
alone and never go hungry no mat- fish the North Umpqua so that we
ter what time of year. We locals love can master different techniques.
our salmon and steelhead but when It’s nice to be able to teach my
the fishing isn’t the greatest, we will kids the value of our local resources
settle for river bass or trout. The and nature by experiencing it first
river is abundant with crawdads, hand without having to travel more
which I have always considered as than a few hours. The Umpqua
tiny river lobsters. And if you col- River is literally our backyard and
lect enough, they can make a very that to me is a treasure in itself.
hearty meal. I would definitely suggest the
Swimming, boating, kayaking, Umpqua River Valley as a prime
tubing and rafting have created location for a getaway for anyone
some of my most memorable child- who wants a peaceful escape from
hood moments. The river is so spe- the hustle and bustle of city living.
cial to us that we have even spread You will definitely enjoy the
the ashes of loved ones who have Umpqua River — I know we do!
passed away over the water, includ- Photos courtesy of Naomi Congleton
ing that of our first family dog. Naomi Congleton now shares the Bill Congleton of Winston keeps an eye on the fishing line as his son, Chaise, fishes on the North Umpqua
While floating the North Umpqua river and her memories with her River in the Swiftwater area earlier this year.
in the summer from Amacher Park own children.

Morgan Creek: On the edge of friendship

Continued from page 18 held absolutely still. They
played on the banks, sheening

“
and fishing and taking the sun,
raccoons move into the boxes while I watched. Then they
we prepare for wild cats that were gone. Thank you, Mor-
come into our barn. Baby gan Creek.
possums separated from their Three river otters One more thank you must be
mother live under our gold bobbed up. ... They made. Our home stands here

speck bush or climb into the
tiny little cages we use for
brooding chicks. Skunks dig
for grubs in little mines in our
flowerbeds. A ferret-like crit-
ter hunts along the edges of
the pond in the grass, so fast
and sleek that I’ve not yet
identified it. Rattlesnakes and
other reptiles quietly come to
the water in the late summer.
played on the banks,
sheening and fishing
and taking the sun,
while I watched.
Debbie Levings
Lookingglass
S E R V I N G B R E A K FA S T , L U N C H & D I N N E R
after over 100 years; through
well over 100 floods, a few of
them century floods. And there
is no evidence that water ever
damaged the house beyond a
few minor repairs.
9 H I S TO R I C G U E S T R O OM S
Evidently, the first settler on
this site made friends with this
creek as well. That settler
opened the door for the gener-
ations of folks that called this
541-866-2474
www.historicwolfcreekinn.com

(I quietly let them alone.)
Dragonflies skip and dart,
sparkling in the setting sun.
One morning, when the rain
stopped and the sun came out,
I put my coat on and walked to
”
the edge of the flood water.
Three river otters bobbed up. I
place home. I know that we
live on the edge, but it is the
edge of a friendship, uneasy at
times but enduring, and one
for which I am daily grateful.
Thank you, Morgan Creek. National Landmark & State Park

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Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition
River full of fun summer memories
MAXINE LEE
For The News-Review
It’s quiet on the river below
our house these days. The
kids all grew up.
Not long after we moved
here in
1952, the
North
Umpqua
River
became
our all
summer
vacation
spot. Our
seven chil-
Lee dren spent
every
summer
day in the water.
Our huge garden above the
river bank was a lot of sweaty
work, but they knew after an
hour or two of hoeing, there
was the cool, refreshing
plunge into the moving water
... more than once a day!
It is nearly a quarter of a
mile below the house where
we raised our family, a good
Bernice Handy watches her daughter, Jennifer, 3, cool off in the main Umpqua River. Jen-
nifer remembers being lulled to sleep by the river.
Remembering the peaceful
sounds of the rapids
JENNIFER HIGH
For The News-Review
Having grown up in Dou-
glas County, I spent a lot of
my time on the river swim-
ming, fishing and eating the
food the water helped sus-
tain.
My story is a little different
as it is the remembrance of the
rapids on the main Umpqua
River. They would lull me to
sleep in the old farmhouse
Proud to be serving Douglas
County for over 60 Years!
Thomas H
IRELAND
.inc
Hauling logs is our business...and we deliver!
541-863-5241
stretch of the legs to take
advantage of the swimming
hole. Actually, the favorite
place to swim and play was
across the fence at the Har-
mon swimming hole.
Some brave young man had
climbed out on the limb of an
old oak tree, and tied on a
rope that dangled over the
water. One could catch hold
on that rope and from a posi-
tion about 10 feet up the bank,
get a running start and swing
20 feet out over the water
before deserting the rope for a
drop into the coolness of the
river.
We watched our 5-year-old
daughter brave that experi-
ence and that sport was con-
tinued well into September in
a good year. Five of the Har-
mon children were usually
part of that party. Often it
included a few Matthew kids
and at times we took along
bologna and sweet onion
sandwiches or Carolee spe-
cials (peanut butter and jam
sandwiches ) or Don Harmon
would catch a few trout and
owned by Bill and May Pow-
ell, my great-grandparents,
who were the original home-
steaders.
My memories of the peace-
ful sound of the rapids will
forever be in my heart and
mind. It may be hard to recon-
cile that something so wild and
turbulent could be so soothing
and comforting. I do not think
I have ever slept so well since
leaving it behind.
The property has long since
361 N. OLD PACIFIC HWY
MYRTLE CREEK, OR 97457
THE RIVERS
Roseburg, Oregon, Page 21
we would add a picnic to the
activities.
The children have moved
away, most of them, and I am
not sure the rope is still there,
but the swimming hole is.
Now, our grandchildren
often take the walk to the
river on a warm day and
relive the “good ole days.” Or
a group of young people from
church are invited to enjoy the
water and the blackberries
that produce profusely along
the banks.
If you are very quiet when
you walk along the river
today, maybe you can hear the
echos of the happy children,
laughing and splashing away
a sunny summer day on the
old Umpqua River, or catch a
glimpse of the black inner-
tubes loaded with sunburned
bodies as they float by the old
swimming hole ...
Photo courtesy of MAXINE LEE
Maxine Lee and her hus- Peg Harmon, far left, Gail Harmon, Sharon Lee, Julie Harmon and Colleen Lee enjoy a float
band, Darwin, still live near on the North Umpqua River in this photo taken in the early 1970s.
the North Umpqua River in
their home off Quail Lane.
roducing
intne w
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- SINCE 1936 -
John D. Shirtcliff
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Photo courtesy of JENNIFER HIGH
sold, but when my mother,
Bernice Handy died in 1990 it
only seemed right to return her
ashes to the place of peace and
comfort which the rapids were
for her also.
The place is now known as
Store with us
Indian Bend in Tyee and I
hope all who get to hear the
and reclaim
rapids and who are lulled to
sleep at night appreciate the
your house!
great gift the Umpqua River
torage Pla
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Sleep well.
e S
h c
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Page 22–Umpqua Edition Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010

THE RIVERS

North Umpqua’s Steamboat Inn

The lodge and the river’s steelhead have long history of luring famous anglers
VICKI MENARD
The News-Review
Originally published April 6, 1997

S
TEAMBOAT — The rip-
pling waters at the conflu-
ence of Steamboat Creek
and the North Umpqua
River cast a mystical attrac-
tion upon many river visitors,
prompting their return year after
year.
Known for its abundant steelhead
fishing, the river began drawing
renowned sportsmen nearly 70
years ago when the road to Steam-
boat was little more than a trail.
Fishermen set up camps on the
banks of the river, starting a tradi-
tion of fly-fishing, food, family and
friends that continues today.
Involved in much of that history
is Steamboat Inn, a fishing lodge
turned country inn that can trace its
beginnings back to the river’s earli-
est anglers.
The Mott Bridge that crosses the
North Umpqua just above Steam-
boat is named for Maj. Jordan
Lawrence Mott, a millionaire news-
paper reporter who first fished the
river in 1929. A Harvard graduate
and heir to a New York City iron-
works company, Mott created a News-Review file photo
scandal when he — a married man
— ran off to Europe with another Frank Moore, former owner of the Steamboat Inn, fly fishes on the North Umpqua for steelhead.
man’s wife in 1912.
The couple eventually obtained
divorces from their first spouses The site of
and married a year before Mott Steamboat Inn,
made his first trip to the North shown here as
Umpqua. When Mott arrived, he it appears today,
struck up a friendship with Fred has drawn
Asam, the Forest Service district anglers to the
ranger at Steamboat. North Umpqua
Asam’s son, Dave Asam of Glide, River since the
remembers Mott’s visits and how 1920s. Famed
he hauled his equipment across the sportsman and
river in a rowboat to set up camp on author Zane
the south shore. Mott hired Zeke Grey set up his
Allen, a local guide, as a cook and camp here on
the pair set up tents on wooden the modern-day
platforms. site of the inn
“He was the first one to put a back in 1934.
camp up there,” recalled Asam, who Photo courtesy of
was just 7 years old at the time, but MARICO FAYRE
already interested enough in fishing
to know he wanted to hang around
the camp. “I was the kind of kid
lodge at Mott’s campsite and by Hargis said, to edit, rewrite and Clarence Gordon had to cancel
they patted on the head.”
1934, obtained a lease on the type the manuscripts he turned out all guest reservations for the 1952

“
Being so young and living in an
Umpqua National Forest land from while in camp. season and the fishing never recov-
isolated area at the end of a treach-
the Forest Service, and began build- In his years on the North ered while the Gordons owned the
erous one-lane road, Asam recalls
ing the North Umpqua Lodge. Umpqua, Grey moved his camp North Umpqua Lodge.
the visits by Mott and other fisher-
By 1937, Gordon had built a around, settling in 1934 on Maple The dwindling fish runs brought
men as a novelty.
“It was kind of neat to see those
lodge, dining room and several cab- The major (Jordan Ridge, the present-day site of about change, however. Thirty-one
ins on the site. He and his wife, Mott) loved our Steamboat Inn, and later at miles of the North Umpqua River,
people,” he said. “You knew they
Delia, began serving dinners of Williams Creek, a site across the beginning at Rock Creek, was des-
were going to stop there.”
But he knew they were different
local fish and game, nuts and wild mountains and the old river marked today by a sign along ignated for fishing only with artifi-
berries — the precursor to the Fish- Umpqua so much that the Mott segment of the North cial flies by the Oregon Game
from other folks. They drove big
erman’s Dinners that continue at Umpqua Trail. Commission in 1952.
cars and had the money to travel
when he and his few neighbors had
Steamboat Inn today. his only desire all Historical accounts of Grey say The Gordons didn’t give up on
While the Gordons, who also through the long weeks the North Umpqua was his favorite business in the Steamboat area.
homes with outhouses and were
managed resorts in California in the river, yet he wrote only one article They opened a small grocery store
surviving the Depression by living
off the land.
winter season, lured guests from of suffering was to again about it, appearing in the September and lunch counter across the river
around the world to their rustic be at ‘Camp 1935 issue of Sports Afield. His to cater to the construction crews.
Mott’s time on the North
lodge for summer steelhead fishing, discretion apparently was an Later, the store was moved to the
Umpqua was short. When he
returned to the river in May of
another renowned fisherman was Contentment.’ attempt to keep the river from current site of Steamboat Inn,
making regular appearances on the becoming overrun with people, a where Gordon built a dining room
1931, he was suffering from cancer
North Umpqua. Fred Asam fate that had come to the more and kitchen that still make up part
of the tongue, according to a Forest
Famous sportsman and author Forest Service ranger famous Rogue River. of the inn today. The Gordons sold
Service newsletter. He died on the
Zane Grey first arrived on the river Grey’s last visit to the North their business in 1957 to Roseburg
river June 3, 1931.
in 1932 to stay at some rustic cab- Umpqua came in 1937, when he restaurateurs Frank and Jeanne

”
“The major loved our mountains
ins on Canton Creek, built by Rose- suffered a stroke that eventually led Moore, who named it Steamboat
and the old Umpqua so much that
burg motel owner John Ewell. By to his death two years later. Inn and re-established a fishing
his only desire all through the long
that time, Grey was making at least Changes that brought progress to lodge for river visitors.
weeks of suffering was to again be
$500,000 a year from book rights, the North Umpqua also halted fish- The Gordons leased their North
at ‘Camp Contentment,’ as he cameramen and technicians from
serializations and movies. ing in the stream in the 1950s. Con- Umpqua Lodge to a construction
called his camp,” Fred Asam wrote. the movie company owned by his
Still, the entourage touring with struction of the hydroelectric power company and then sold it to the
His camp soon became home to son, Loren Grey, who intended to
Grey came as a shock to Forest Ser- projects near Toketee as well as the Forest Service in 1955, which
another fly-fisherman, Californian make a film of his father’s adven-
vice packer Merle Hargis. It took road that would connect Roseburg established a ranger station on the
Clarence Gordon, who had also tures.
Hargis’ six-mule team three trips to to Diamond Lake deposited so
fished the river every summer since Grey also brought along secre-
transport all of Grey’s supplies to much silt in the river, it was unfish-
1929. Gordon envisioned a fishing taries, or a “whole flock of girls” as Turn to STEAMBOAT, page 24
the cabins. Grey was joined by able.

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Friday, August 27, 2010 Umpqua Edition Roseburg, Oregon, Page 23
THE RIVERS

News-Review file photos

The Umpqua River system offers numerous boating opportunities.

Umpqua offers a river full of fun

Soaking up the sun while floating on the North Umpqua River near Brown’s Bridge.
Fishing the North Umpqua River.

A blue heron stands in the shallows of the South

Whitewater rafting on the North Umpqua River Umpqua River.

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 Page 24–Umpqua Edition
Steamboat: Inn and the nearby North Umpqua has drawn visitors from near and far
Continued from page 22
site. None of the original
North Umpqua Lodge build-
ings remains today.
The Moores were no
strangers to the North
Umpqua. An avid fly-fisher-
man since childhood, Frank
had started guiding for
Clarence Gordon shortly after
the couple moved to Roseburg
in 1946 to operate Moore’s
Cafe on Cass Avenue.
In fact, he was away from
the cafe so much the waitress-
es placed an ad in The News-
Review that read, “Lost: One
owner and manager of
Moore’s Cafe. Last seen up the
North Umpqua River.”
On weekends, Jeanne and
the three children — a fourth
came later — would join him
on the river. They’d camp at
Canton Creek Campground
and fish all weekend.
“Every weekend, on Sunday
I’d think we’d get home early
to get these kids showered, but
he always wanted to stop at a
couple more fishing spots,”
Jeanne recalled during a recent
interview at the retired cou-
ple’s log home, five miles
downstream from Steamboat
Inn. “We always got home late
with dirty kids, but I guess it
didn’t hurt them.”
When Gordon offered to sell
his Steamboat Store to the
Moores, it was their ticket to
stay upriver permanently.
“Frank would’ve gone nuts
if we stayed in that restaurant
in Roseburg,” Jeanne said. “At
the inn, he felt like he was
developing something.”
Though the North Umpqua
Lodge had been closed for five
years, the Moores called all of
Gordon’s former guests —
many of whom Frank had
guided — and invited them
back.
They came and soon the
Moores were running a
bustling business in the sum-
mertime. Frank guided guests
early in the morning and came
back to cook breakfast before
guiding again in the afternoon.
Jeanne often worked 16- to
18-hour days, running the day-
time cafe until it closed at 8
p.m., then preparing the sever-
al-course Fisherman’s Dinner
for overnight guests.
The Moores set the tradition
of serving the meal a half-hour
after dusk, allowing fishermen
to stay on the river as long as
possible.
Many of the guests returned
year after year.
“A lot of them were fami-
lies,” Jeanne said. “The kids
would sleep on the deck or
lawn. A few times, our kids
moved out of their bedrooms
to make room for more
guests.”
“Our guests considered
themselves family and they
were,” Frank said.
THE RIVERS
A fisherman casts his line while fly fishing for summer steelhead on the North Umpqua River
east of Glide. The river attracts fly anglers from all over the United States as well as from
some foreign countries.
In addition to guiding, Frank
became active in preserving
the native fishery of the North
Umpqua. Filmmaking friends
helped him produce a docu-
mentary on careless logging
practices that spurred passage
of the Oregon Forest Practices
Act to protect waterways and
fish and wildlife living in and
near them.
He also served on the Ore-
gon Game Commission, was
named State Conservationist
of the Year in 1970, and
received numerous other
awards for his conservation
efforts.
Roseburg Oregon, Friday, August 27, 2010
News-Review file photo
Steamboat Inn became a
place former Oregon Govs.
Tom McCall and Bob Straub
visited. It drew people like
outdoor writer Michael Baugh-
man, who washed dishes dur-
ing summers at the inn so he
could spend his time fishing.
Baughman’s book about the
North Umpqua, “A River Seen
Right,” was published in 1995.
Taking Baughman’s place as
dishwasher in 1973 was Jim
Van Loan. He and his wife,
Sharon, worked three summers
at Steamboat Inn before buy-
ing the business from the
Moores and arranging a lease
with the Forest Service in
1975.
It was another beginning for
Steamboat Inn. This time, it
was the pair of Van Loan chil-
dren greeting guests; 6-year-
old Jed offered to sell them his
hand-tied flies or show them to
the river.
It was a new venture for
Jim, who had been a travel-
ing college textbook sales-
man, and Sharon, who direct-
ed the Child Development
Laboratory at Oregon State
University and went on to
teach at Glide Elementary
School for six years to make
ends meet.
“Neither one of us knew
what we were doing,” Jim
recalled in a recent interview
at the inn. “We had no idea
how to run a business or hire
employees.”
Rather, they had inspiration.
“In Corvallis, our principal
form of entertainment was to
have friends in on the week-
ends, serve them dinner fami-
ly-style, and have conversa-
tions,” he said. “And we still
do — only they’re friends we
haven’t met yet.”

Cool fun: Fall Creek Falls offered a beautiful setting for a wedding in 2003
Continued from page 17
of the river just past Amacher,
and the well-groomed lawns
that line the length of that part
of the river make for a pleasant
view as well. Add to that the
fish that jumped occasionally,
the deer we spotted grazing at
the bank, a crane and various
other bird sightings, and the
varieties of trees growing in
abundance along the bank, and
we felt like we were in an
episode of John Cooney’s
“Natural World” (for you
KLCC radio fans).
My only regret is that it took
me so long to do this, although
I’ve certainly been no stranger
to other riverside adventures.
One of our favorite summer
pastimes for three years run-
ning has been to take the kids
to South Umpqua Falls. If ever
there were a natural water
park, this would be it. Sliding
down the falls on your stom-
ach or backside into that deep
clear pool is fun enough for an
entire day’s entertainment,
though devotees of the falls
find ever more creative ways
to make a splash. I have seen
people slide down on inner
tubes, bodyboards, air mat-
tresses, and giant inflatable
geckos. I even saw a couple of
guys ride unicycles off the
rocks and into the pool below.
Add to the rock slides enough
swimming holes and rocks for
jumping off to entertain the
hundreds that flock there every
weekend, and you have the
makings of a classic summer
retreat.
This year, Mary and her
brother, Ryan, took our kids
camping upstream from the
falls near the beginning of the
South Umpqua at the conflu-
ence of Black Rock and Castle
Rock forks. These South
Umpqua tributaries, though
chilly, offered a great swim-
ming hole and a miniature
rapid for the kids to float down
in their tubes. To mix things up
a little, the gang also drove up
to nearby Deer Lick Falls for
some more swimming and
rock jumping.
I joined them for the last
night of their trip; the only bad
thing I could find to say about
the spot is that it also seems
popular with mosquitoes and a
certain species of heavy metal
music fan known for swearing
loudly and playing horseshoes
late into the night. But then,
you’re bound to find at least
one of those pests at any
campsite you choose.
Other Douglas County falls
Mary and I have hiked to with
our kids over the years include
many of the most spectacular
attractions along the North
Umpqua corridor: Susan Creek
Falls, the breathtaking Watson
Falls, the serene (if currently
inaccessible) Toketee Falls,
Wolf Creek Falls and our
favorite spot, Fall Creek Falls,
the site of our 2003 marriage.
We hiked up there again last
weekend, in fact, relishing the
cool hike past moss-covered
rocks and trees that opens up
into a beautiful pool where the
two-tiered falls plunge into the
site where my father married
us. It was an intimate affair,
attended only by our parents,
our children (mine from a pre-
vious marriage), our dog,
Duke, and News-Review pho-
tographer Andy Bronson, who
recorded the event for posteri-
ty.
It’s significant that we
selected such a spot for our
nuptials, since the natural
beauty of Douglas County has
always been one of its chief
attractions for us. It is hard for
me to pick a feature in this
landscape that plays a bigger
role in defining that beauty
than the Umpqua River sys-
tem.
Christian Bringhurst of Win-
ston, a former reporter and
city editor at The News-
Review, is now a teacher at
Camas Valley Charter School.

Cow Creek Tribal Traditions

The Cow Creek Tribe works to improve and protect natural resources. An example
of this tradition is the dedication the Tribe and its partners have made to return
the Jordan Creek Watershed in South Douglas County to health.

Restoration activities on Jordan Creek began in 1998, almost immediately after the
Tribe acquired the property that includes and surrounds Seven Feathers Truck and
Travel Center as well as Seven Feathers RV Resort. In 1998, the Creek had only
seasonal flow during winter. There hadn’t been perennial flow in Jordan Creek for
decades.
The Tribe began working with the Oregon Department of Transportation, Oregon
Department of Fish and Wildlife, Partnership for the Umpqua Rivers, Oregon
Watershed Enhancement Board, Umpqua Fisheries Enhancement Derby, Herbert
Lumber, and landowners adjacent to the Jordan Creek Watershed. Old car bodies,
used tires, sewage, waste oil, trash, defunct culverts, and more were removed from
the neglected Creek bed. The Creek began to recover and water now flows year
round to the available bed. Water quality is tested regularly to make sure the
Creek’s waters are contaminant free.
As Jordan Creek returns to health, it increasingly claims the ways of its historical
meanderings. New blockages are revealed and removed. And Jordan Creek gets
more and more vibrant.
Simultaneously, vegetation native to Jordan Creek has been planted in its riparian
area. Boulders have been placed to create pools and shade that improve fish
habitat. The Tribe established salmon acclimation ponds that have been increasing
fish numbers through a scheduled release of those smolts.
The efforts are ongoing.
And the diligence is paying off.
Two years ago, salmon considered native to Jordan Creek returned to spawn for
the first time in over 50 years. And, in the spring of 2010, at least twelve pair
of spawning adult Coho salmon were seen in Jordan Creek by the Cow Creek’s
Natural Resources Director.

The seasonal presence of spawning salmon and their offspring to Jordan Creek is
testimony. Planning and execution made by partners who dedicated themselves to
Jordan Creek’s return to health is succeeding.

The continuing restoration of Jordan Creek is an example of Cow Creek tradition,

a tradition to protect the gifts of our natural world.

For more information, please contact

Cow Creek Tribal Government Office
2371 NE Stephens • Roseburg, Oregon • 541.672.9405