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Contents
Projects
February 2015 Vo l u m e 3 9 , N u m b e r 1
Page 34
Page 48
Router Table Insert
By Bill Wells
Turn the extension wing
of your table saw into a
router table, with built-in
dust collection.
Page 40
woodworkersjournal.com
I’ve got big news: We’ve got a new website!
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transformed. The new site features the same
outstanding content you’ve come to expect from
us, but it’s presented in a new, state-of-the-art
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anywhere — your workshop, the lumberyard Table
or even killing time in line at the DMV.
One look at the new site and you’ll notice larger photos,
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gallery page that’s easy to navigate and search.
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bet is to go to woodworkersjournal.com and check it out for
yourself. We know you’re going to love it!
—Dan Cary
Follow our Facebook page and other social media channels for
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MORE ON THE WEB
For more content covering the
articles below, click on “More on job, it has become a love and tiques, some math and www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
the Web” under the Magazine tab. outlet for him that he will technology, and varied
always treasure. subjects.
Woodturning (page 28):
Floyd Blake There is a real differ-
Marking offsets and turning a
St. Louis, Missouri ence between vocational
cabriole leg (video)
cabinetmaking, carpen-
Jigs & Fixtures (page 32): I have been a shop teacher try and technology.
Setting and using a circle-cutting for 30 years in public schools As for home learn- www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
jig (video) (high school). I also taught 39 ing, my younger son
Well-Tailored Penguin (page years one night a week for col- liked the fine work and
34): Animated penguin toy in lege (adults, senior citizens, helped me in my home
action (video) etc.). It was rewarding to see shop. The older son liked Why did we use haunched
folks very interested in my and is real good at carpentry tenons in the Outdoor Storage
Greene & Greene-Inspired
expertise, and really wanting (finish or rough). Chest? Read the answer below.
Bed (page 40): Tips on making
to learn: some to get another Fred Schmidt
tracing and routing templates
job, others for a hobby, etc. Baltimore, Maryland they could warp out and pro-
(video)
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
Finishing Thoughts (page 82): I taught cabinetmaking and the lid ends with the elongat- between the tenons help keep
Correct sanding process from carpentry, home maintenance, ed holes for the dowels and the lid ends aligned with the
Step-by-Step to a Perfect Finish furniture repair, millwork, an- use the technique frequently. center panel all along their
DVD (video) What I don’t understand is the length (keeps the full length
need to use haunched tenons. of the joint interlocking).
Because of wood movement, Since the process for raising
it seems that the haunch is of the initial tenons provides
little value in the strength of material for the haunch, it
the assembly. sure doesn’t hurt to leave it
Why use the haunched there. In a sense, you really
technique in this application? could consider this to be
Wouldn’t a full-width tenon a full-length tenon; it just
work as well in this application? has long sections and short
Rich Flynn sections (regular tenons and
Huntington Beach, California “stub” tenons, if you will).
There are always more
WJ Responds: Good ques- ways to skin a cat. If you’ve
tion you raise about the need had luck running continuous
for a haunched portion on tenons into deep mortises for
a long breadboard end, like your projects, stick with it. Go
the one we have in the deck with what works. I tried doing
box project. Here’s my best it that way on an end table
attempt at an answer. once, with a 3/4"-thick top
If you were to cut a contin- and 1/4"-thick mortise walls,
uous, deep mortise to house and I can literally squeeze
a full-width tenon, you’d be the mortise walls and flex
removing a lot of material them down, depending on the
from the lid ends. That would season, in the finished joints.
weaken the walls of the Bugs me every time I try it.
mortise unnecessarily. Once — Chris Marshall
the walls are thin and flexible,
www.woodworkersjournal.com
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Q
THIS ISSUE’S EXPERTS
I have the DELTA hybrid
Rob Johnstone is table saw with 13⁄4hp
publisher of motor. My motor is going
Woodworker’s Journal. south. Can I replace it with
Bob Behnke is the technical a 3hp motor? I could get my
service manager for Titebond frame rewound to a 2hp but
products. would rather have a 3hp. I am
just wondering if the shaft and
Michael Dresdner is
a nationally known finishing
bearings will stand the 3hp.
expert and the author of The Ned Woodard
New Wood Finishing Book. Walton Beach, Florida
Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a
writer/photographer of several
woodworking books and a
A The answer to whether
the drive components
will hold up to a larger motor
frequent contributor to Can you replace a table saw motor for more horsepower? And, if you do,
Woodworker’s Journal.
is “maybe.”
what are the consequences?
If you are asking for my
Contact us
advice, I’d say go for it. You
would, of course, need to step
up to 220V circuit, as 120V
to transfer the motor’s power
to the arbor. A single belt
(which is what you have on
A When cyanoacrylates
come into contact with
cotton, leather or wool, it can
by writing to “Q&A,”
will not power a 3hp saw. your hybrid saw) will not be result in a rapid reaction or
Woodworker’s Journal, If you ask the manufac- as robust and is not going to polymerization. The reac-
4365 Willow Drive, turer, I am sure they would perform as well. (It may break, tion is exothermic (gives off
Medina, MN 55340, say “Don’t do it,” but over get worn out in a hurry, etc.) heat), and the heat can boil
the years a lot of folks have The pulleys that the belt runs off the cyanoacrylate in the
by faxing us at (763) 478-8396
switched motors on saws and in might not be up to the task air, forming white smoke-like
or by emailing us at: other machines. and may fail at some point. particles that can drift and set
QandA@woodworkersjournal.com You just need to accept What I want you to know off the alarm’s particle detec-
Please include your home the possibility that the larger is that you won’t be getting tor. Use a polyester or nylon
motor may cause problems. the performance of a $2,000 cloth instead of a cotton one,
address, phone number and
For example, a saw designed cabinet saw by upgrading the and apply the glue in thinner
email address (if you have one) for a larger motor will likely motor on your hybrid. coatings.
with your question. have more than one drive belt — Rob Johnstone — Bob Behnke
A Kitchen Tool
Mystery solvers threw their
answers into the pot.
What benefit do you get from
Patented in 1894, this wiping down with naphtha?
tool was the Brillo ®
Speaking of the
pad of its day.
I
mpressed with what colonized the area. Antique
Ugandan carpenters have tools are in regular use.”
been able to accomplish, The Ugandan carpenters
“often with just a hacksaw,” do have power tools; again,
Brice Aarrestad has founded “Some are relics from the im-
Help Desk Furniture Co. perial times of the Brits. They
to promote the carpenters’ keep them working as best as
talents, while also supporting they can,” Brice said.
Ugandan schools and putting As he worked with the
his own skills to use. local carpenters last summer
The company setup: furni- to make prototypes for Help
ture made in Uganda, from Desk Furniture products, “The
sustainably sourced African guys I was working with, it
hardwoods, will be sold to cus- was the first time they’d seen
tomers in the U.S., with profits a tapering jig. They wanted to
funding Ugandan schools. know ‘Why don’t we just hand
Brice first traveled to cut everything?’ After passing
Uganda in 2009, on a two- a couple of legs through, they
week volunteer trip with realized pretty quickly the
Engineering Ministries Inter- benefit of using jigs.”
national, acting as a designer Among those prototypes
and construction manager. were tables built in a
He participated in another mid-century modern style. “I
two-week trip in 2010; moved think it works well with their
to Jinja, Uganda, for a 11⁄2- skills – it’s simple to build,
year stint in 2011; and spent but the key is in the details,”
another five weeks there this and fits his own personal de-
past summer. sign preferences, Brice said.
Last summer’s work in- “Right now, the Ugandan
Brice Aarrestad used a Ugandan “locally made” mortising machine (a motor cluded finding potential local style seems to be locked into
on one end with a shaft connected to a drill chuck) to bore holes in a workers with whom to partner,
bench frame. and building some proto-
types. “There are workshops
throughout the area, kind
of like a warehouse, where
carpenters will rent a corner
of space. I went to those and
asked around,” plus got rec-
ommendations from expatri-
ates, Brice said.
Most Ugandan woodworkers
do a lot of their work with
hand tools, Brice said. “It
might be old Stanley #5s
they got from the Brits who
a Victorian sensibility,” he
added. “Every guy seems to be
making the same design as the
guy next to him.”
In part, that’s due to
demand. “If the locals want
a bedframe, they want to pay
as little as possible,” Brice Ugandan carpenter Robert Machi (left) provided support as Brice Aarrestad routed a mugavu wood tabletop using
said. “The market isn’t there a circle cutting jig.
for quality work – but the
desire is there,” on the part of Mvule (Milicia excelsa) and
the carpenters. “They realize mugavu (Albizia coriaria) are
we’re paying for quality, and “both pretty dense woods.
they’re excited about that.” They’re a little more difficult
A portion of the profits from to work with, but they’re gor-
Help Desk Furniture Co. will geous,” Brice said.
also go to supporting Ugandan Sourcing them sustainably,
schools. “If you’ve got an however, is a challenge of
existing school that needs working in Uganda. The one
maintenance, there’s not a lot forestry officer in the Jinja
of funding,” Brice said. “They region is understaffed and
might have 40 students in a underfunded. At least at first,
class and enough desks for 10, Help Desk Furniture will work
and the desks that are there with private landowners who
are probably 30 years old.” have timber resources, plus
The desks and many other the forestry officer, making
Help Desk products will use every effort to document that
the same types of woods the the wood is being harvested in
Ugandan carpenters are likely a legal manner. The “Help Desk No. 1” is made from African mahogany and steel legs.
to use for local commissions. When a production facility
is set up in Uganda, Brice and
his wife Meredith would likely
move back to that country.
For now, however, Brice is
concentrating on finishing his
master’s degree in architecture
at the University of Minnesota
(he should graduate in May).
He’s also moving forward on
the next steps for Help Desk
Furniture Co.: “securing
investors and funding; finding
retailers to pick up the line;
and finding advisers interested
in helping me shape the future
Ugandan woodworkers of this and bringing things to
frequently use older market,” Brice said.
power tools for tasks
For more information, visit
like planing African
www.helpdeskfurniture.com. This version of the prototype Strap Bench, shown next to the Nile River, is
mahogany.
— Joanna Werch Takes made from lufugo (Celtis mildbraedii).
Hollow
Vessel - Natural
Edge by Mike Jackofsky
with show coordinator Bob and lit: Many of the larger ty organizations. They’ve made
Stevenson. Bob, an excellent pieces were organized into over 1,600 of these small
woodworker in his own right, harmonious groupings and set chairs to date.
had been running the show on low platforms. Smaller and My visit ended on a bitter-
since 1995. It’s clearly a mam- delicate work was displayed sweet note. The night after
moth undertaking, organizing so it could best be seen, either the judging, I attended an
a gallery-style show that each atop tables or inside Plexiglas® appreciation dinner where
year juries and displays an showcases. Bob Stevenson was honored
average of 270 to 310 pieces In addition to the gallery for his 20 years of exemplary
submitted from woodworkers show, Design in Wood boasts show stewardship. After he
all over the U.S. (with an occa- quite a few additional events, had passed the show’s reins
sional international entry). including turning, carving and to SDFWA’s special events
As Bob and I walked around other demonstrations; and the chairman Ed Gladney, Bob
the spacious 7,500 square- use of traditional hand tools told me that at least now, he’ll
Floating Jewelry
foot Mission Tower building in a 19th century cabinet shop be eligible to enter a piece in
Cabinet - Curved that’s home to the show, I was re-creation to make pre- the show himself.
Front with 8 Drawers impressed with how well all school-sized oak chairs that — Sandor Nagyszalanczy
by James Frantz the woodwork was displayed are donated to local communi-
Anniversary
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Page.indd 27
229.027Ads 11/17/14 11:28 AM
Woodturning
Multi-Axis Turning: Legs Fit for a Queen
By Ernie Conover
Our author reveals how to use the technique of turning in more than one axis to create
cabriole legs — a furniture feature made popular in the Queen Anne style.
M
ulti-axis turning is of Colonial Williamsburg. converging axes; the exception
a furniture-making Elements of the Queen Anne was the Hudson River Duck
www.woodworkersjournal.com technique dating Style are still used in furniture Foot chair, for which they were
MORE ON THE WEB to the Queen Anne period. today, and a hallmark of the turned in parallel axes. (This
For a video of the author Queen Anne reigned from style is the cabriole leg. chair is rarely made, but if you
www.woodworkersjournal.com
demonstrating turning a 1702 to 1714, but she never Most cabriole legs were understand converging axes,
MORE ON THE WEB
used a piece of her furniture, carved, which was expensive parallel is a walk in the park.)
cabriole leg and marking the
nor was the style called by because hand work was, and
offsets, please visit that name until a century and still is, labor-intensive. Cab- Turn in Converging Axes
woodworkersjournal.com and a half later. The style real- riole legs were also turned, Turners created the cabriole
click on “More on the Web” ly took off during the reign in a fraction of the time that shape by turning the leg in
of George I, her successor, it takes to carve one. Turned two converging axes. The first
under the Magazine tab. which is why the English legs were often employed for step is to turn the foot of the
www.woodworkersjournal.com
call the style Georgian. It the back legs of furniture that leg with the MORE ON THE WEB
blank chucked
was tremendously popular would be against a wall when on center, as in any spindle
in the Colonies, becoming the client wanted to save some turning. The area between the
the predominant style of the money. Turned legs were also foot and the pommel, which is
eighteenth century. There are used on small tables. Most of the part of the leg left square
fine examples in the collection these legs were turned with to accept the aprons, is also
MORE ON THE WEB
13/4"
Half Cove
C
L Center of Ankle 13/16" 3
/8"
Everything above here is square Point where the two axes converge
Secondary
C
L Axis
13/4" Center of Ankle 13/16" 3
/8"
Pommel
Everything above here is square Point where the two axes converge Leg Shaft
7" 181/4" Secondary
C
L Axis
13/4"
The author made the porringer table in the Queen Anne style, above. The
original is in the collection of Historic Deerfield, Massachusetts.
Everything above here is square Point where the two axes converge
Secondary
C
L Axis
1 /4"
3
Layout of Leg
229.028-030 WT Woodturning.indd 29 11/18/14 1:01 PM
Woodturning continued
Made from 1/2” plywood, this basic jig allows you to cut out or shape accurate
circles, semicircles and arcs using a standard jigsaw or router.
4
2
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
Exploded View 1 Baseplate (1) 1/2" x 6" x 11"
2 Pivot Bar (1) 1/2" x 2" x 41"
5 3 Connector Bar (1) 1/2" x 2" x 81⁄4"
4 T-Knobs (2) 1/4"-20
5 Carriage Bolts (2) 1/4"-20 x 11⁄2"
1
Circle-cutting Jig Hard-to-Find Hardware
2” T-Knobs (2) #71506 ....................................................... $1.99 ea.
Self-Adhesive Measuring Tape (1) #69116 ............. $9.99 ea.
To purchase this and other products online,
Baseplate visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/hardware
(Top View)
Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
11"
C
utting a perfect circular with holes at regular intervals the rectangular piece (see
www.woodworkersjournal.com disc out of solid wood or that serve as pivot points for top left photo, page 33). On
MORE ON THE WEB plywood isn’t a particu- different radius cuts. 3. A the band saw, cut out the
For a video of the author larly daunting challenge — if connector bar that joins the 6"-diameter round portion of
demonstrating his technique you use a good circle-cutting two parts with a sliding joint the baseplate.MORE ON THE WEB
www.woodworkersjournal.com
jig. This one is useful not only that allows fine adjustment of Moving to the drill press,
for setting and using the for sawing arcs and rounds up the jig’s cutting radius. bore a 3/4" hole through the
circle-cutting jig, please visit to a whopping four-foot radius, All jig parts are made center of the base’s round part
woodworkersjournal.com and but the base also accepts a from 1/2"-thick high quality and a pair of countersunk
router, for curvy shaping work. plywood, such as Baltic birch. holes in the tongue part for
click on “More on the Web”
The jig, shown in the Drawing Start by sawing out the jig’s two short 1/4" carriage bolts.15
under the Magazine tab. 1 /16" 3
/4" 3
/4"
above, consists of three parts: 6" x 11" baseplate. First, Now bore a series of counter-
www.woodworkersjournal.com
1. A banjo-like-shaped base make two parallel cuts on the sunk mounting MORE ON THE WEB
holes to attach
plate that mounts to the jigsaw table saw to form a 5"-long, the base of your router (with
or router. 2. A long pivot bar 2"-wide tongue on one end of its subbase removed), as well
Counterbored holes bored through the circle jig’s round baseplate provide A short length of stick-on measuring tape allows fine-tuning of the
the means for mounting either a jigsaw or a router. distance between the jigsaw blade (or router bit) and the jig’s pivot hole.
as holes for mounting a jigsaw on the tape for fine adjust- etc., set a scratch awl or nail It’s best to take a trial cut
(with its foot plate removed). ments, you can use a scrap of into the pivot hole that’s clos- and check the radius; if it’s
For proper cutting action, the measuring tape left over from est to the radius of the desired off, you can use the scale and
jigsaw should be positioned another jig project. Now slide circle or arc. To set the exact cursor to tweak the setting.
with its blade teeth centered the slotted end of the pivot bar radius, measure the distance When used with a router,
on the round baseplate, with onto the carriage bolts on the from the pivot hole to the saw the circle jig is capable of
the saw’s body perpendicu- base and secure the connec- blade, then loosen the hand accurately routing radius slots,
lar to the baseplate’s tongue tion with a pair of T-style or knobs and slide the connector creating curved recesses for
and facing to the left (for other hand knobs. bar in or out as necessary, then line inlays, or for decorative
right-handed users). (See retighten the knobs. Starting shaping work.
bottom left photo, above.) Setting Up for Cutting with the blade/bit at the edge
From 1/2" ply, cut a 2"- To use the jig to cut out a of the work, pivot the jig Sandor Nagyszalanczy is a
wide, 41"-long strip for the round tabletop, arch-top panel, around smoothly as you cut. furniture designer/craftsman,
jig’s pivot bar as well as an writer/photographer and
A scratch awl inserted in one of
81⁄4"-long piece for the con- contributing editor to
the pivot strip’s holes acts as a
nector. Using a dado blade in pivot point, for either cutting or
Woodworker’s Journal. His books
the table saw, cut a 1/4"-wide, routing circles and arcs. are available at amazon.com.
41⁄2"-long slot in the connector
bar. On one side of the slot,
cut the bar back 1/4" and
radius the outer edge of the
other, then mark its tip with a
black marker pen. The tip acts
as a pointer, for fine adjust-
ments. On the pivot bar, mark
out 37 pivot holes 1" apart
and drill them with a 1/8" bit
chucked in the drill press.
Glue and nail the connector
to the end of the pivot bar,
positioning it as shown in the
Drawing. Apply a short length
of sticky-backed measuring
tape to the top of the baseplate’s
tongue, as shown in the bottom photo caption
right photo, above. As you’ll use
only the fractional graduations
T
his fellow has been on my list of I actually laminated three pieces of front together as you sand. Be careful to
“to do” toys for the last year. I think 1/2"-thick wood together. You could also keep the defining characteristics of the
he was worth the wait. I chose the glue up two 3/4"-thick boards to achieve silhouette intact, such as the transition of
Adelie penguin because of their simple, 11⁄2". Whatever you use, you want to end the beak to the forehead.
elegant lines, and the fact that they are up with exactly 11⁄2"-thick stock. If you I have modified my edge sander to nicely
flipper flappers unlike, say, the emperor are laminating, cut the pieces slightly sand inside curves. I bent the platen
penguins, who generally leave their flip- large and make the final cut close to the behind the belt to accommodate half of a
pers at their sides as they walk (waddle). line after the assembly is glued up. Be 1" dowel that I screwed to the front of the
At any rate, this guy presented several sure that the band saw table is at a right platen (see Figure 1, next page).
challenges, the first of which was getting angle to the blade before cutting your I don’t taper the beak and tail until
the black and white areas to work with parts. You can drill the eyehole now, too; after I assemble the body halves.
the design and the mechanisms. It is only back up the workpiece with scrap.
the second toy I’ve designed with different Now head to your edge sander. Make Forming the Belly
woods meeting like this, somewhat like sure its table is at a right angle to the belt The belly has to be made out of four pieces
intarsia (the first being a pileated wood- before you sand the silhouette back to of 3/8"-thick stock, again adding up to a
pecker). I used walnut and ash here, but the pattern line with
honestly, ebony and holly would be my 80- and then 120-grit
preferred choices for an even stronger belts. Don’t sand the
black-and-white contrast. front edge that will
The other challenge was how to make be joined to the belly.
the flippers “flip” as they should. My first It’s best to edge-sand
attempt was two hinged flippers pivoting this after the belly
up as an arm was pulled down by a string assembly is complete
attached to a cam on either side. It took a to fit the back and
lot of space within the body, making it too
wide, and it was just plain cumbersome.
Then John Hutchinson, a fellow toy
designer, suggested the pivoting flipper Photocopy the full-size
arm idea. He had used this concept on patterns shown on pages
a camel he designed years ago, and it 38 and 39, and adhere
worked perfectly. The last problem was them to your workpieces
how to assemble the guy with flippers and with spray adhesive
still be able to do a good job on the body before cutting them to
shape at the band saw.
(sanding, etc.). So I decided on a dowel
through the back of the body to attach the
flipper arm after the body was assembled.
The cam and drive dowel is a mech-
anism I have been using for years, as
are the diagonally opposed wheels that
produce a classic waddling motion. The
result is this tidy little penguin toy that
does everything a penguin should.
Figure 3: Make a drum sander for tight inside curves if you don’t have one. Figure 4: The author marked the top of the belly piece with a pencil line
Just cut a slot in a dowel and wrap some sandpaper around the dowel, to avoid spreading glue too far forward on the front edge. The glue should
using the slot to hold it in place. Secure the paper with a strip of tape. stop just short of the penguin’s beak.
perfect 11⁄2" — the same as the back of the When the glue has set up, cut out the Assembling the Body
body. I used ash. The two outside pieces entire silhouette carefully to the pattern Make sure that the drive dowel channel in
(pieces 2) are the same, with a notch for lines. This assembly should look like the body is clear of any dried squeeze-out
the fin arm, while the two center pieces Figure 2 from the back. At this point before proceeding further. Chisel it clean,
(pieces 3 and 4) are slightly different. you’ll want to clean up the slot for the if necessary, then try a 5/16" dowel in the
Both pieces accommodate the cam at the flipper arm, filing and sanding if neces- slot to ensure that it moves freely. I cut
bottom, but piece 3 has the additional long sary, to avoid any interference with free a piece of wood to help clamp the body
missing area for the drive dowel channel. movement of the pivoting arm. You can parts together (see Figure 5, page 38). It
Lay these pieces out with the grain locate and drill the 3/8"-diameter axle will also be useful for accurately drilling
running the long way. Once again, cut hole at this point, too. Now, edge-sand the hole for the dowel that goes through
them slightly larger than the patterns — the front of the belly with 80-grit, going the pivot arm. This clamping block is
except for the bottoms and backs of the for a nice smooth curve. simply a piece of 11⁄2"-thick wood cut to
two center pieces, which you will not be You’re now ready to edge-sand the the shape of the outer belly. It should be
able to get at after glue-up. Cut these mating edges of the back and belly pieces. made so that the slot for the pivot arm is
exactly to the line. Don’t drill the axle Try to match these edges as closely as held parallel to the bottom of the block
holes until after assembly either, when possible to produce a tight seam. You when the belly is resting on it. This will
their alignment will be more accurate. will need a small drum sander for the hold the body in the correct position to
Be sure to get the pieces in the correct area under the head where the belly drill the flipper pivot arm hole, later.
location (remember, the drive slot is on piece fits up into it. A dowel with a slot Mark a faint line just back from where
the penguin’s left). Try to get the pieces to accommodate sandpaper works fine the back piece joins the top of the belly to
to line up closely as you clamp them if you don’t have a small drum sander help in accurately applying the glue (see
together, especially the front of the body, (see Figure 3). If you can’t avoid a small Figure 4). Brush glue onto the entire top
as that will determine the location of gap along these parts, you can fill it with of the belly where it fits under the head,
the slot for the drive dowel. Watch for a putty of walnut dust and glue after and then put a little glue down the length
shifting as you tighten the clamps. assembly, if needed. of each outside piece of the belly. Spread
1 Exploded View
4
5
7
6 5
3
9
2 11 6
11
12 10
3
/16"
5
/16" D.
4
1 req’d.
3
1 req’d.
2
2 req’d.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video of the animated pen-
guin in action, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and
click on “More on the Web
under the Magazine tab.
3
/8" D.
Forming the Flipper Assembly
Make the flipper pivot arm first (piece 7),
so you can adjust the slots in the flippers sand its edges and faces smooth. Break
to fit it before you glue this assembly up. all the sharp corners with more sanding to
Lay this piece out on 3/8" stock using complete it.
the pattern. Make it from the same wood Now lay out the flipper halves (pieces Creating the Wheels and Cam
as the underside of the flippers and the 5 and 6) on 1/4" stock. I made the top You could buy a couple of 2" wheels for
belly. Drill the 5/16" pivot hole with a (unslotted) pair from walnut and the two your toy, or make them with a hole saw.
brad-point or Forstner bit to prevent wan- slotted undersides from ash. Cut the A 21⁄4"-diameter hole saw has an inside
dering. Then cut out the pivot arm and silhouettes slightly larger but the slots diameter that’s close to 2". It’ll work just
precisely. Adjust the fine. Other options would be to trace a
slots (cutting, sanding 2"-round object or draw the wheel shapes
or filing) so that the with a compass, then cut out a couple
pivot arm fits snugly of wheels on the band saw or scroll saw.
into both slots. This The same goes for the 1" cam. If you use
will make for a strong hole saws for this process, plug the center
glue joint. holes and drill the offset holes as shown
Glue the flippers on the patterns. I suggest drilling the axle
into two sets, being hole in the cam a little oversize (11/32"
sure to make them or even 21/64"), because the axle will
opposing so you have slip through the hole without splitting the
the correct one for small cam. If you don’t have these bit
each side. When the options, you may want to make several
glue dries, sand the cams in case the axle splits during
faces and edges up assembly. I’ve had a few fail in the past.
Figure 5: Support the penguin’s body for drilling with a shaped block through the grits until
under the belly and a right-angle fence behind. The goal is to hold the they’re smooth, and Putting the Pieces Together
body perpendicular to the drill bit and parallel to the drill press table ease all of the sharp Slide the pivot arm into place and gin-
for boring the flipper assembly’s pivot hole. corners. gerly tap the dowel through the body and
2 req’d.
5
/16" D. 5
/16" D.
7
1
/4"
5
2 req’d.
1 req’d.
1
1 req’d.
6
2 req’d.
into the arm. A little jiggling of the arm vides centralized impact, and glue cleans
after each tap should be enough to get the off of the steel head easily.
dowel started in the right place, since its Now pass the axle through one axle hole
hole is concealed from view. When the in the body, then through the cam and out
dowel has just entered the belly portion of the other side of the body. If the cam fits
the body, put a little glue around the base tight on the axle, lay the penguin down
of the dowel, near the back of the body, over a gap in your vise jaws that’s slightly
and tap it home. Wipe off the excess glue, larger than the axle diameter to support
saw off the extra wood and edge-sand this the work. Tap the dowel through the oil and lay them in a trough to let the excess
area lightly, or just do it by hand. cam and the body until it sticks out the oil drain out. Or, you could just wipe
I’m sure that you can figure out some other side. You want the cam to be in the the oil on with a rag. Apply it liberally
way to get the flippers clamped to the middle of the slot with the same amount and then let it soak in for a while before
arm, but I fit them so snugly that general- of space on either side of the body. Spread wiping off the excess. You may need to
ly clamping isn’t necessary. glue inside the second wheel hole and dry off the oil more than once if it bleeds
Cut the axle to length for the wheels rest it on your bench on wax paper. Tap out of open-pored woods like walnut and
and break the edges of the dowel ends from the finished wheel side carefully to ash. Once the surfaces completely dry,
with sandpaper. Glue one wheel on. I put drive the axle through the second wheel. your Well-Tailored Penguin is ready for
glue inside the axle hole with a match- When the glue dries, sand the ends of a child’s imaginative hands or a slightly
stick or a toothpick (or a handy-dandy the axle flush with the wheel faces. grown-up adult’s coffee table.
squeeze glue applicator), lay the wheel
on some wax paper on the workbench and Finishing Up David Wakefield is a toymaker living in Ohio.
drive the axle home. I use a standard nail I use food-grade mineral oil for finish these See more of his work at wildlife-toys.com or
hammer for this. It works much better days because it is nontoxic and really easy in his book, Animated Animal Toys in Wood,
than any mallet I’ve tried because it pro- to apply. I dip my toys in a large drum of published by Fox Chapel Publishing.
Appealing to the “softer” side of Arts & Crafts, this bed’s cascading
cloud lifts, slatted construction and raised square pegs will help polish
your templating and mortising skills.
T
his queen-size bedframe began as a conversation with my
wife’s former boss, Jo Ellen, about two years ago. She loves
the “softer” cloud-lifted details of Greene & Greene style
that give it a more relaxed look than Stickley’s straight lines and
stout proportions. And she’s not alone. Lately, it seems, wood-
workers are churning out Greene brothers furniture with partic-
ular gusto. So, it didn’t take much convincing when I offered to
build this first piece in her new bedroom set. Thanks to some
excellent drafting by our senior art director, Jeff Jacobson, the Curves, shadow lines and the richness of stained mahogany contribute to
bed was off to a great start. If you like what you see, gather up Greene & Greene furniture’s enduring appeal.
some 6/4 mahogany and maybe some fancier figured 4/4 stock
for the bed’s center panels. Buy a sheet of quality plywood, too:
you’re going to need it to make a stack of templates and jigs.
Trace the template shapes onto mahogany blanks for the rail and leg
workpieces. Leave a few extra inches of material at the ends of the top
rails to reinforce them for mortising, later.
13/4" R.
3
/4"
To purchase this and other products online, 1"
visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/hardware 3
/4"
Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
14
81/4" 71/4"
Footboard Plug Locations
(Front View) Locate the Plugs 1/4” from the Rail
10 edges and center them on the Slats 13 13 12
or Stiles. The plugs at the ends of
the Top Rails are centered on the
Legs (at left). The only exceptions 3
/8"
are the larger plugs (shown below).
1 C
L
1
/4" 13
11/4"
5 5 3
/8"
2 1" 5 /8"
1
4 /8"
/2"
7
1 1
/2"
1
/41" 21/8" 21/4" 21/4"
7 6 5" 61/2" 71/4"
6 9
1
/2" 11 After laying out the mortise locations on the
Bottom Rail, transfer them to the Top Rail.
3 1
17 1"
1 4 12
1
/2" 5
/8"
1
/4" 3
/8"
16 12 10
17 7
/8"
19 13
14
19 13 9
13
13"
16
11
1 1
17 Exploded View Headboard Leg
18 (Front and Side Views)
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video of the author sharing tips on making the
bed’s tracing and routing templates, please visit
woodworkersjournal.com and click on “More on the
Web” under the Magazine tab..
Panel-making and
Pre-finishing
Glue up a couple of attrac-
tive center panels for your
headboard and footboard.
You can make them 5/8"
thick for a flat-panel style,
but I thought some dramatic
M
ost table saws come with an The concept I came up with is a dust
extension wing on the right-hand collection system built right into the table-
side of the saw table. Replac- top itself. An internal chamber connects the
ing this wing with a router table is an router bit opening on the top surface with
excellent modification to your saw. It is a shop vacuum connection on the bottom. Measure the distance between your saw’s
convenient, saves valuable floor space, Dust and chips are vacuumed away down fence rails first before cutting any of the project
and it’s inexpensive to build. When I the bit opening as soon as they are cut. parts to size. The table frame must fit snugly.
decided to add a table-mounted router to The table is made in three layers: a top
my small shop, adding it as an extension surface of durable countertop laminate, a Careful Measurements Come First
to my saw was my best option. I also middle layer of 1/4" MDF and a bottom Remove the extension wing of your
wanted effective dust control, but none of layer that includes the dust conveying saw and determine the size of your new
the commercially available dust control chamber, made of 3/4" birch plywood. router table extension. The most critical
systems appealed to me. So I decided to There’s no special fence with vacuum dimension is the width — the distance
design my own. openings and no hoses on the table. between saw fence rails; mine was 271⁄8".
Install ledges inside the table framework to The author dabbed black paint on the hole loca- Bolt the frame to the saw table and rip fence
support the bottom plywood layer. Use a scrap tions of his saw table to mark the router frame rails to check its fit. The bolt holes should be
depth gauge to locate the ledges accurately. for drilling matching holes. large enough to allow for some fine-tuning.
4 5 6
Cut a piece of 3/4" birch plywood for the table’s Notice that initially, the plywood layer will Mark and cut clearance areas in the plywood
bottom layer. Once set into place, its top surface block access to the bolt holes when resting on at each bolt hole location. Check to make sure
should be flush with the top of the frame. the ledges. your wrench has enough access.
The depth of the extension is somewhat holes, then pressed the frame against the Mark the location of all fasteners, and turn
arbitrary. I chose mine to extend to the top. The transferred paint clearly shows the plywood layer over. You can now cut
end of the fence rails, which on my saw is the hole location on the wood frame. away small areas of plywood so that you
161⁄2". If you want an even deeper table, Drill these holes and elongate them, have room to get a wrench onto the bolt
you can extend a bit farther, but no more and all others, for later height adjustment. heads. I used a 11⁄4" hole saw and hand
than about 6" past the end of the rails. Now bolt the frame to the fence rails. You saw. Don’t worry about the holes you have
may not be able to use the original
Building the Frame fasteners that came with the saw.
Bolting your completed extension to the Leave the frame in place for now;
saw can be the trickiest part of the proj- you will be making minor adjust-
ect. So build the frame first; that way you ments to subsequent components
can deal with unique mounting require- for access to the fasteners you
ments and interferences from the get-go. just installed. Better to do these
Build the frame from 1x4 solid wood now than later!
to the dimensions determined in the
previous step. The width is critical; the Making the Bottom Layer
frame should fit snugly between the saw This layer fits inside the frame,
rails. Butt-joint the frame pieces using 2" so measure the inside dimen-
screws and yellow glue. Then add a ledge sions and cut a piece of 3/4"
inside the frame to support the top; this birch plywood to fit. Go ahead
ledge should be at a depth equal to the and set this plywood panel into
thickness of the bottom plywood layer. the frame.
I used a piece of 3/4" scrap as a gauge. Looking from below, you will
Now fit the frame into position on the see that the plywood has likely
saw. Since the middle and top layers will blocked access to the fasteners.
rest on top of the frame, set the top of the
frame about 5/16" lower than the cast- Rout an elongated recess into the
iron saw surface and mark this location. top of the plywood layer to form the
Then mark the location of the bolt holes dust chamber. The author attached
for attaching the frame to the saw table. temporary guides to limit the router’s
I dabbed black paint around the bolt travel for this task.
4 5
2 3
8 Exploded View
1
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL Note: The dimensions in the
1 Long Frames (2) 3/4" x 21⁄2" x 27" Material List may need to be
2 Short Frames (2) 3/4" x 21⁄2" x 141⁄4" adjusted to fit your table saw.
3 Long Ledge (1) 5/8" x 3/4" x 251⁄2" Bottom Layer
(TopView)
4 Short Ledges (4) 5/8" x 3/4" x 91⁄4" 1 13/8"
5 Bottom Layer (1) 3/4" x 141⁄4" x 251⁄2"
6 Middle Layer (1) 1/4" x 153⁄4" x 27"
7 Top Layer (1) 3/32" x 153⁄4" x 27" 7" 123/4"
8 Dust Port (1) 21⁄2" Dia. 2
11/4" D.
2"
5
Table Extension Hard-to-Find Hardware 2" D.
2 1⁄2’’ Dust Port (1) #42137 ............................................ $5.99 ea. 11/4" D. 71/8"
To purchase this and other products online,
15/8"
visit www.woodworkersjournal.com/hardware
Or, call 800-610-0883 (code WJ1577).
"
drill a hole for the vacuum/4connection.
3
Chairs?
cabinets made simple,
easy and quick!
DOOR TO
CUT TO DRILLING CABINET DOOR
SIZE & BORING ASSEMBLY DELIVERY
SEE VIDEO
leighjigs.com The Fine Woodworker’s
800-663-8932
Secret to Beautiful Joints
See the Router Boss
in Action at
LEIGH MORTISE & TENON JIGS
or call 513.233.9019
WJ Annual CD Ad 2014 .500H_layout 2 11/17/14 11:01 AM Page 1
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY MARCH/APRIL
This four-jaw scroll chuck for woodturners saves you time both when you
change jaws and when you adjust their grip on your project.
I
recently spent a week test- jaws swapped, and the screws outward from the center in a
www.woodworkersjournal.com
ing the 4" Easy Chuck™, replaced and torqued. This spiral. The scroll plate turns
MORE ON THE WEB an innovative new four- can take up to 15 minutes — in the same manner as the
For a video of the author jaw scroll chuck from Easy and I do not answer the phone record would on a turntable,
Wood Tools that is aimed at for fear of not tightening all but instead of playing music,
www.woodworkersjournal.com
under the Magazine tab. most scroll chucks is changing buried inside the chuck body. purpose jawsMORE ON THE WEB
and spigot (or
the top jaws. Eight cap screws It can be visualized as a vinyl tower) jaws the most. Bolting
have to be unscrewed, the top record with a ridge running and unbolting is enough
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L
aguna’s 14-Twelve band saw resaws wide boards and brings the benefits of
European styled band saws into the 110-volt world of the home wood-
worker. The tool is priced to sell — something which might surprise long-
time Laguna watchers — and the groovy industrial-looking worklight add-on?
Well, that might just be what pushed this tool to the top of our readers’ list.
JET JWBS-14SF
Band Saw
Contenders
General International 90-170B Band Saw
JET JWBS-14SF Band Saw
Laguna 14-Twelve Band Saw
Oliver 4620 Band Saw
RIKON 10-325 Band Saw
Steel City 50155G Band Saw
Bosch CM8S 8” Single Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw
RIKON 10-351 14” Band Saw
RIDGID R1500 15” Drill Press
RIKON 25-010H Planer/Jointer
Laguna 14-Twelve
Band Saw JET 14” 3HP Steel Frame Band Saw
Craftsman 10” Jobsite Table Saw
T
he patent-pending “Fusion Trio” tooth geometry
on the Freud Premier Fusion general purpose saw
blades is the attention-getter on this winning blade.
The top, sides and face of each tooth get a special grind to
improve feed rate, reduce amp draw, and allow for a more
controlled cut. Readers found these blades, also available
in thin-kerf, to be a cut above the rest.
Contenders
Rockler Edge V-groove Bit
Olson Saw All Pro® PGT Professional Series Band Saw Blades
Spyder Products Skeleton™ Jigsaw Blades
Freud Premier Fusion General Purpose Saw Blades
Freud SD508 Dado Blade
Honorable Mention
Olson has been making ultra dependable
and reasonably affordable band saw
blades for a long time, and their All Pro®
PGT Professional Series continues the
tradition. Strike up the band (saw) for
blades with a computer-controlled raker
tooth set that creates straighter and
more precise cuts with less waste.
S
praying paint at home is a task whose time has
come, in part because of the new affordable
technology (like these spray guns) that has
come on line. Wagner’s Power Painter Plus incor-
porates the two-hole spray tip — and its clean,
wide fan pattern — also found on the company’s
lower-priced model, plus adds more power and
an easy-to-operate push-and-release cup. The
multi-position “stain/paint” switch on the back
gets rid of guesswork when dialing in the settings
for heavier or lighter material flows. It’s not hard
to guess why this topped our readers’ choices for
handheld electric spray guns.
Graco TrueCoat
Pro II Fine Finish
Cordless
Contenders
HomeRight Heavy Duty Sprayer Titanium Series
Wagner Power Painter II
Wagner Power Painter Plus
Graco TrueCoat® Pro II Electric
Graco TrueCoat® Pro II Fine Finish Cordless
Black & Decker 2-Speed Quick Clean™ Sprayer
Graco TrueCoat Pro II Electric
F
our tools for one price is almost always a
good deal, especially when three of them
are among the newer tools in the line.
The 61⁄2" Circular Saw, Reciprocating Tiger
Saw® and Pivoting Flashlight join a 1/2" Drill/
Driver for this set that works
interchangeably with a 4.0
amp/hour battery, or 1.0
amp/hour battery. For our
survey respondents, that
just works. Are these tools
pure woodworking tools? The
answer is no ... but while all DIYers
are not woodworkers,
we’ve found that
all woodworkers
are, in fact, DIYers.
PORTER-CABLE 20V
MAX* Lithium Ion
Four-Tool Combo Kit
Festool TS 55 REQ
Track Saw
Contenders
Festool Carvex 420 Jigsaw
Bostitch® 15 Amp 71⁄4" Circular Saw Kit
Next Wave Ready2Rout
FEIN ASCM 14QX Drill
RYOBI® 18V ONE+™ P360 18 gauge Narrow Crown Stapler
Black & Decker 1/2" Drill Driver
Handibot® Smart Power Tool
PORTER-CABLE 20V MAX* Lithium Ion Four-Tool Combo Kit
Black & Decker 20V MAX* Lithium Cordless Drill with AutoSense
Makita XSH01X/Z Cordless 71⁄4" Circular Saw
DeWALT DWS520K Track Saw
Festool TS 55 REQ Track Saw
Grizzly T25552 Track Saw
Mafell MT 55 cc Track Saw
Makita SP6000J1 Track Saw
Triton TTS1400 Track Saw
DeWALT DWS520K Dremel Ultra-Saw™
Track Saw
W
oodworker’s Journal readers chose the
Tormek TS-740 Sharpening Station, Sharpening Station
with its user-friendly adjustment
feature, as the winner of the Woodworking
Accessories category. Its height can be set
between 291⁄2" and 32", allowing your shoulders
to relax when you’re sharpening, while you’re
still applying the right amount of pressure.
The TS-740 might have a small footprint at
223⁄4" wide by 15" deep, but it stands tall when
it needs to.
Contenders
Carter Products Perfect Sphere™
Rockler 24" Shop Stand Apron
Tormek® TS-740 Sharpening Station
BESSEY K Body® Revo™ and Revo Jr. Clamps
Kreg Tool Company True-FLEX™ Featherboards
Rockler Silicone Glue Brush
Portamate PM-7500 Deluxe Miter Saw Stand
Rockler T-Track Stops
Honorable Mention Blackfire® CLAMPLIGHT
Rockler’s T-Track Stops come in short, inline or long versions and are IRWIN Impact Performance Series™ Double-Ended Power Bits
handy helpers to hold down workpieces for various operations, even
General Tools Precision Multi-Species Wood Moisture Meter
allowing you to work in different directions without moving the board or
stops. These shop assistants do what’s needed, without getting in the
way: that’s the kind of helper that gets a special mention.
Continues on page 64 ...
D
ust collection is definitely one of a shop’s dirty jobs, which makes
handing it over to a premium dust extractor like the Festool CT 26 very
attractive, the survey group says. Compatible with lots of power tools
from its own brand and others, the CT 26 has a dizzying array of accessories,
a self-cleaning filter bag and a wheel brake to prevent unwanted movement.
This quiet, efficient shop servant made a top-notch impression.
Contenders
Festool CT 26 HEPA Bosch VAC090A Dust Extractor
Dust Extractor Craftsman 125.12007 Shop Vacuum
DeWALT DWV012 HEPA Dust Extractor
Festool CT 26 HEPA Dust Extractor
Milwaukee 8955 Shop Vacuum
RIDGID WD1851 Shop Vacuum
Shop-Vac 5873410 Shop Vacuum
WORKSHOP WS1100CA0 Shop Vacuum
FEIN Turbo 1 Dust Extractor
Craftsman 125.12007
RIDGID WD1851 Shop Vacuum
Shop Vacuum
WORKSHOP WS1100CA0
Shop Vacuum
Keep your eyes on this new kid
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Item #54864 . . . . . . . . . $14.99 $9.99
Order now! 800-610-0883 (mention code WJ1518
WJ1518)) Order online: www.woodworkersjournal.com/WJ1518
A
n innovation in adhesive, Nexabond
2500 Instant Wood Adhesive offers the
quick cure of a cyanoacrylate with the
longer assembly time of a PVA wood glue. Add
that together with a durable bond, no swelling
around the joint (and hence no waiting before
machining), and it’s easy to see why the sum
total of our readers’ reactions made this new
entry into the glue market a winner in this
survey.
Contenders
Bloxygen®
Nexabond™ 2500 Instant Wood Adhesive
Milwaukee M18™ Jobsite Radio/Charger
DeWALT Heated Jacket
Rockler Koostik Kit
Diablo Universal Sanding Discs
Rockler Barn Door Hardware Kit
Veto Pro Pac Cargo Totes™
DMT® DiaSpray®
Milwaukee Tool Inkzall™ Jobsite Marker
Bosch BAT621 5.0 Ah FatPack™ Batteries
Gorilla Glue Company Self-Standing Bags
Orion Products Group Sandits™
Rockler Laser-cut Inlay Pen Blank Kit
Gorilla Glue
Bosch BAT621 5.0 Ah FatPack Batteries Diablo Universal Self-Standing
Sanding Discs Bags
T
he dry-fire lockout on the
PORTER-CABLE PIN138
PORTER-CABLE PIN138 Pin Nailer
23-gauge pin nailer protects you
from yourself, in a way: it prevents the
gun from firing when you’re within a
few pins of emptying the magazine —
and prevents damage to the workpiece
from firing without a nail. An oil-less,
maintenance-free design also adds to
the ease of use for this reader favorite
among pneumatic tools.
Contenders
Bostitch HP118K 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Cadex CP23.30 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Hitachi NP35A 23-gauge Pin Nailer
PORTER-CABLE PIN138 23-gauge Pin Nailer
RIDGID R138HPA 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Rotek RPN0635 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Cadex CPB23.50 23-gauge Pin Nailer
SENCO FinishPro 23LXP 23-gauge Pin Nailer
GREX P650 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Spotnails SP2340 23-gauge Pin Nailer
Surebonder 9710CB 23-gauge Pin Nailer
SENCO FinishPro 21LXP 21-gauge Pin Nailer
Bostitch HP118K
Pin Nailer
GREX P650
Pin Nailer
SENCO 21-gauge FinishPro 21LXP Nailer
Honorable Mention The survey results for this article were collected
from the Woodworker’s Journal Online Survey
This innovative SENCO nailer fills a “sweet spot” between Group. The group consists of several thousand
the big-dude 18-gauge finish nailers and more diminutive opt-in woodworkers who volunteered to answer
23-gauge brad nail guns. When compared to 23-gauge woodworking-based questions on a regular
pins, 21-gauge offers extra holding power but still makes basis. Want to join the survey group? Subscribe
a small entry hole — a great new option on the market. to the Woodworker’s Journal eZine (it’s free)
and watch for updates.
T
he multitude of forms a spice rack
can take on is pretty much endless.
(You can see me talk about the de-
sign aspect and coming up with your own
options on the online video.) I decided
on a tree silhouette as the inspiration for
mine — it seemed like the obvious choice
for someone who is a self-proclaimed
tree-hugger. Also, the idea of taking part
of a dead tree and making it back into a
tree shape seems appropriately ironic.
Since my goal was merely to give the
sense of a tree, I used only part of the tree
form: the canopy is blatantly manipulated
and cut off in a straight line. This design
choice not only gave the spice rack a
clean line across the top, it also gave a
metaphorical nod to the harvesting and
manicuring of trees. For the wood, I used
mahogany salvaged from a door maker.
To get started building your spice rack,
establish your template and create a cut
list for your own design, or use the ones
I came up with if you want to follow my
lead (see page 70). Next, mill your wood.
(Remember to check that all your tools
are set up square. “Squares” might be
boring, but squares are a woodworker’s
close friend.)
My side pieces are book-matched even
though the grain is straight and only has
slight variations. Per the usual milling
rule for a smaller project like this, I left
all of my pieces one to two inches longer I hadn’t had a scroll saw, careful cutting to mark the top and bottom intersection
than the final dimensions to make sure I with the jigsaw or a coping saw would’ve of the shelf and branches because it will
had plenty of material. After milling all worked, too.) I took the side pieces apart be angled. Cut out the smaller shape on
the wood, I lined up the two side pieces before using the scroll saw. The thickness the band saw and use your hand tools to
and traced my pattern directly onto the of the two stacked together would be too shape them flush.
top piece in line with one of the long much for that tool.
edges. Next, I crosscut both side pieces to Next you will rip your
final length at the same time. shelves to width. The dimen-
Using a dado stack, I set up to cut a sion provided for the shelf
5/8"-wide dado to house my shelves. I depth is a little bit deeper
laid the two side pieces against my miter than it needs to be, so you
gauge fence and together with the inside can get the right angle on
faces down, then set up a stop to ensure the shelf fronts to match the
my pieces would stay aligned for cutting sides. At this point, assemble
each of the grooves. You can see my setup the shelves and side pieces.
in the photo above. Then I used dou- Then, using a pencil, mark
ble-stick tape to adhere the inside faces the angle you need to cut
of the side pieces together for cutting and in order to match it up. On
shaping. (You could also use masking the top shelf of my tree, I cut
tape or blue tape and tape them together.) out two relief spots to ensure
Since I had already drawn my shape that the negative space of the
on the outside of the side pieces, I went branches wouldn’t get lost with
straight to the band saw to cut the organic the intersection of the shelf.
shapes of the outline. While the pieces The angle of the branches
are still aligned and taped, drill the holes made this tricky. Make sure
for your steel rods. I drilled through
one side and only halfway into the other A scroll saw is ideal for
removing the “captured” areas
so that I could easily slide the bars in
between the branches. Or, you
through one side after glue-up. could make these cuts with a
For creating the interior shapes of jigsaw instead. Either way, drill
the branches, I drilled holes in the side a pilot hole to start the cuts.
pieces so I could use the scroll saw to cut
those shapes according to my template. (If
2
1
1 6
7
5
Exploded View
MATERIAL LIST
TxWxL
1 Sides (2) 5/8" x 41⁄4" x 17"
Note: Enlarge this
2 Top Shelf (1) 5/8" x 4" x 133⁄8"
pattern 200%.
3 Middle Shelf (1) 5/8" x 27⁄16" x 133⁄8"
4 Bottom Shelf (1) 5/8" x 41⁄4" x 133⁄8"
5 Mounting Cleat (1) 5/8" x 11⁄2" x 123⁄4"
6 Steel Rods (3) 1/4" Dia. x 14"
7 Button Plugs (2) 3/8" Dia.
Go ahead and rip and crosscut the wall all the edges to varying degrees to ac-
mounting cleat, and drill two countersunk centuate the tree shape on the outside
holes 11⁄2" in from the ends for mounting of the side faces. You can form the tree
the rack. I countersunk these holes 1/4" as much or as little as you like. Maybe
deep so I could plug the screw heads. you want to take the edges to a full
Now the fun really begins! Using a roundover or carve it to be closer to a
variety of hand tools (rasps, files, chisels, true tree. It’s up to you. Although, with
spokeshave, sandpaper with thin sanding hand-shaping, it is very important to be
blocks, etc.), I shaped the tree branches, mindful of short grain, weak spots and
got rid of the saw marks, and chamfered grain direction in general. Use smart Continues on page 72 ...
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For a video of the author discussing
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on “More on the Web” under the
Magazine tab.
72
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Yes, you can spend less time and less effort on sanding — and you’ll sanding step. After all, if you
still get great results! don’t know what each sanding
step is meant to accomplish,
how can you know when to
stop sanding?
The Steps
The first round of sanding has
two goals: flatten the wood and
remove tool marks. That’s all
you need to do, and you want
to do it as quickly as possible.
Therefore, use the coarsest
paper that’s practical: usually,
80-grit. Using a harsh grit
does this job quickly. If 80
Michael Dresdner doesn’t do it fast enough, go
is a nationally known finishing down a grit to 60, then back
expert. He shares his expertise on to 80, but remember, the goal
is to get it flat and remove tool
the DVD The Way to Woodwork:
marks quickly.
Step-by-Step to a Perfect Finish, Once the wood is flat and
available through the store at free of tool marks, you move
woodworkersjournal.com. on to the second, third and
all other sanding steps. They
all share just one goal: to
replace the sanding scratches
from the previous grit with
finer scratches. You do that
by sanding with a grit close to
the last one. For instance, go
from 60 to 80, from 80 to 120,
from 120 to 180, and from 180
to 220.
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
For a video clip from the
The author’s tips on improving your sanding technique are applicable www.woodworkersjournal.com
Step-by-Step to a Perfect whether you are sanding by hand or using a random orbit sander. When MORE ON THE WEB
Finish DVD demonstrating you use these techniques, it will be easy to see — and get rid of — your
previous sanding scratches. (And you’ll know when to stop!)
the correct power sanding
E
process, please visit veryone loves the silky Overview
woodworkersjournal.com and feel of finely sanded To be perfectly honest, most
click on “More on the Web” wood. No one loves folks sand way too much. The
the tedium of sanding. If only goal is to sand very little, yet www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
under the Magazine tab. there was a way to get the still get great results. That’s
results without the grind. entirely possible, but in order
There is. Yes, there’s a to do that, you need to know a Don’t skip grits. Each finer grit
removes previous scratches.
secret to making sanding go few things; which paper and
quickly, easily and painlessly, grits to use, when to switch
and if you keep reading, I’ll grits or papers, how to use
tell you what it is. sandpaper efficiently, and most Skipped Grits
You’re welcome. importantly, the object of each
www.woodworkersjournal.com
MORE ON THE WEB
82 February 2015 Woodworker’s Journal
SA
ND
ND
SA
ND
The Paper SA
Sanding Sanding
When sanding raw wood, Scratches Scratches
I prefer aluminum oxide
grit. It’s sharp, cuts fast and
because it is usually friable, it First, sand in a direction diagonal to the grain. Then switch grits, and sand diagonally in the
fractures as you use it so that opposite direction. Stop when the sanding scratches from the previous grit disappear. Repeat.
it continues to present a sharp Contact us
cutting surface to the wood.
with your finishing questions by
However, that does not mean sanding and move on to the By Hand
you should overuse it. Sanding next grit. I’ve explained what Wrap the writing to Woodworker’s Journal,
with dull aluminum oxide pa- the objective of each step is, sandpaper 4365 Willow Drive,
per is false economy; it makes but to know when to stop, you around a Medina, MN 55340,
you work harder, go slower need the best sanding tech- comfortable,
or by emailing us at:
SA
and accomplish less. Switch niques, both by hand and with hand-sized block lined with
ND
finishing@woodworkersjournal.com.
ND diagonally to the
to a fresh sheet frequently and a machine. That’s because the cork or rubber on the sanding
never mind if you haven’t worn technique itself will tell you face. ASand Please include your address,
S
away every single bit of grit on when to stop sanding. This grain. Yes, I said diagonally,
phone number and email
the surface. may sound hard to believe,
Sanding NOT with the grain. Diagonal
Now for the tough part: how but it isScratches
true. Bear with me Sandingcuts the wood quickly
sanding address (if you have one)
to tell when it is time to stop and I’ll show you what I mean. Scratches
and prevents “washboard- with your thoughts or questions.
Sanding
Scratches
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