NATIONAL INSTITUE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

APPAREL INTERNSHIP
REPORT
GREEN TEXTILE LIMITED, BANGLADESH

EPIC GROUP

Documented By:

KARAN MEHRA

KARAN SINGH
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Every project big or small is successful largely due to the efforts of a number of wonderful
people who have always given their valuable advice or lent a helping hand. I sincerely
appreciate the inspiration; support and guidance of all those people who have been
instrumental in making this project a success.

We, Karan Singh (M/B.F.T./12/12) and Karan Mehra (M/B.F.T./12/34), the student of NIFT
Mumbai, are extremely grateful to Green Textile Ltd., Bangladesh (Epic Group) for the
confidence bestowed in us.

At this juncture I feel deeply honoured in expressing my sincere thanks to Mr. Ranjan
Mahtani, Chairman, Epic Group and Mr. Anjan Mohanty, C.E.O., Green Textile Ltd.,
Bangladesh for making the resources available at right time and providing valuable insights
leading to the successful completion of our project.

We express my gratitude to our course coordinator Ms. Kavita Pathare and our Project
Mentor Mr. Ranjan Saha, who assisted us in compiling the project.
I would also like to thank all the faculty members of B.F.T. department, NIFT Mumbai for
their critical advice and guidance without which this project would not have been possible.
Last but not the least we place a deep sense of gratitude to our family members and our
friends who have been constant source of inspiration during the preparation of this project
work.
11/09/2015
Karan Singh (M/B.F.T./12/12)
Karan Mehra (M/B.F.T./12/34)
 1.0 COMPANY PROFILE

1.0.1 EPIC GROUP

Established in 1971 Epic has successfully transitioned from being a
buying agent to today being a large multinational company with
world class manufacturing facilities in Asia employing over 20,000
people and with annual turnover of $350 million. Epic offers a full
package that includes design, management and planning and
financial services. Unlike most factories that are simply providing

CM (cut and make) their objective is to offer both high quality manufacturing and
outstanding service.

“Even in a country like Bangladesh that has an

abundant and low cost labor supply, we still need to
focus on efficiency. We are continually re-engineering
our factories to boost efficiency,” said Mr Ranjan
Mahtani, Chairman of EPIC Group.

Epic also produces its own collections for the Spring, Summer, Fall and Holiday seasons with
over 100 new fabrics developed for each season.

1.0.2 GTL AT A GLANCE

1. YEAR OF ESTB. 2012

1. COSMOPOLI TAN INDUSTRIES PVT LTD

ASSOCIATED COMPANIES
2. PEARL GARMENTS COMPANY LIMITED.
2. IN
3. EPIC GARMENTS MANUFACTURING
BANGLADESH LIMITED.
ASSOCIATED COMPANIES
IN 1. EPIC DESIGNERS (VN) LTD
VIETNAM

ASSOCIATED COMPANIES
1. COSMOPOLI TAN INDUSTRIES PVT LTD
IN
2. PEARL GARMENTS COMPANY LIMITED.
HONG KONG

MR. KUTUBUDDIN AHMED - CHAIRMAN

MR. RANJAN MAHTANI – DIRECTOR
MR. DINESH VIRWANI - DIRECTOR
MR. SUNIL DARYANANI – DIRECTOR
3. KEY PERSONNEL
MR. TANVIR AHMED – MANAGING
DIRECTOR
MR. ANJAN MOHANTY - CEO

4. FLOOR SPACE 54,138 SFT

5. NUMBER OF EMPLOYEES 1260

6. NO OF SEWING LINES 10

7. NO OF FINISHING LINES 10

8. PRODUCTI ON TURNOVER $20 MILLION

9. PRODUCTS MULTI PLE TYPES OF WOVEN BOTTOMS

10. PRODUCTION CAPACITY 3,00,000 PCS/ MONTH

11. LAB FACILITY IN-HOUSE

12. CERTIFICATION C-TPAT CERTIFIED

1.0.3 KEY BUYERS:

GTL’S regular buyers are :

 Walmart
 J C Penny
 C&A
 Quicksilver
 Mavi
 The Children’s Place

1.0.4 LOCATION OF FACTORY:

Nilhuri, Banaid, 2 No. Meduari, Bhaluka, Mymensingh, Dhaka Bangladesh.
1.0.5 FACTORY SPECIFICATIONS:

• Total Area:10 .07 acres

• Factory Area: 2.56 acres

• Total Manpower: 1260

Area Specification (Production Floor)

SL. Space Area (Sft) Area (Sft)

1 Bonded Warehouse 4277

2 Cutting section 4432.5

3 Sewing Section 27882.75

4 Finishing Area 10404.63

54138.04
5 Finishing Goods store 2882.12

6 Packing Area 688.61

7 Dispatch Area 594.9

8 Maintenance Room 973.75

9 Office Area 2001.78

 1.0.6 GTL ORGANOGRAM:

Expat
CEO
Local Anjan Mohanty

GM GM Manager
COO
Process, IE, Quality HR & Personnel Maintenance
MR. AJIRA
& Technical Md. Siraz
Akhil Tripathi

DGM Manager
CFO
Admin & Utility & Engineering Corporate (Finance
Compliance Sumon Mollah & Account)
Abdul Alim Ruhul Kuddus
1.0.7 GTL FEATURES:

PRODUCTION:

1. Equipped with state of the art cutting, sewing & finishing machineries to produce 12000
garments per day.

2. Efficiency and productivity focussed production management system backed up with i.e.
concepts.

3. Continuous training and skill up gradation of staff to maintain professional and systematic
work environment.

4. Stringent production monitoring system to ensure variation free performance, better

resource utilization and improved quality.

5. Problem solving approach of line staff for a performance conducive environment.

6. Professionally managed well equipped operator training centre to ensure influx of fresh
skill.

7. Method centric training to ensure relevancy of targets & SMVs.

QUALITY:

1. Integrated quality system to have clear visibility and control on quality parameters.

2. Systematic & consistent pre-production activities to ensure minimum product

specification variation.

3. 100% computerised pattern making to ensure standardization and accuracy.

4. Integrated systems from product development to shipment.

5. Dedi cated system backed up with 100% inspecti on and aql audits throughout
manufacturing process.

6. Data based corrective actions supported by monitoring for continous improvement.

7. Experienced and trained staff to manage quality along with transferring know to new
recruits.

8. Dedicated training programs for quality personnel skill enhancement.

EM PLOYEE:

1. Equal opportunity employer with non-discrimination policies.

2. Social compliances targeted to exceed statutory and buyers' standards.

3. Management with conscience, encouraging & open to transparent communication.

4. Wide passage for movement of workers, obstruction free emergency exit aisles.

5. Emergency lighting system provided through IPS & individual battery backup on stairs,
exit passage, floor.

6. Medical centre consists of necessary supplies, separate ward for male & female with si ck
beds, full time doctor nurse, and free medical facility.

7. Day care centre for children.

8. Canteen facility to cater to a work force of 1000 people.

9. Public address system in for common messages, notices & information.

10. Transport facility or allowance to workers.

11. Prohibition of employment of child, forced or prison labour.

12. The salary and overtime is paid in full amount within 7th of every month.

13. Maternity benefit is provided as per law.

14. Periodical performance & salary evaluation.

15. Monthly attendance bonus.

WAREHOUSE
DEPARTMENTAL STUDY
2.0 Fabric and Trim storage

2.0.1 FABRIC SOURCING

The Sourcing Department functions from the EPIC Head office at Hong Kong and have
different sourcing team for different kind of Fabrics and brands. The common varieties
procured in GTL are: Cotton fabric, Yarn dyed fabric, processed cotton and cotton blend
fabric, etc.

2.0.2 FABRIC STORE FUNCTIONS

This department works in coordination of merchandising department and involves quality

personal also. Before the quality inspection, rolls are kept in quarantine area. After the
quality inspection they are stacked according to their purchase order in crates with details
of its color, shade, length, width and buyer, supplier details. Fabrics are issued to the
production department for cutting on the demand issued by the cutting department with
approval of merchandising department.

2.0.3 TRIMS STORE FUNCTIONS

This department comes under fabric store only but different team is assigned to inspect
quantity and quality of material. They also maintain records of incoming and outgoing
materials. Same like fabric, trims are also kept in crates with details like color, size, quantity,
buyer, purchase order, etc. Different colors of crates are used to store different trims for
easy identification.
2.1 PROCESS FLOW
2.1.1 ORDERING OF FABRIC

Start

Fabric samples are ordered

by HO at Hong Kong as per
the tech pack sent by the
buyer

Merchandising Dept.
inspects the samples and
gives the final approval

After approval, HO notifies

the GTL Merchandising
dept. about the approval

Fabric is ordered as per the

order quantity of the style

Fabric order is placed

2.1.1.1 FABRIC SUPPLIERS

 LUCKYTEX, CHINA
 SHAOXING COUNTY ECOU TEXTILE Co., Ltd, China
 NISHAT MILLS, PAKISTAN
 APEX FABRIC, CHINA
 ENVOY TEXTILE LIMITED, BANGLADESH

2.1.1.2 THREAD SUPPLIERS

 COATS
 GUTERMANN
 AMETO
 MADIERO POLYNEON

2.1.1.3 LEAD TIME

Based on the lead times for procurement of fabrics, it is decided whether it is feasible to
complete the order on time or not. Most of the fabrics takes 45 days.

2.1.1.4 RAW MATERIAL LIST

 Fabric
 Accessories or Trims
o Cutting Trims

 Inter Lining
 Fusing

o Sewing Trims

 Labels
 Buttons
 Rivets
 Thread
 Zipper
o Packaging Trims

 Poly Bag
 Hangers
 Cartons
 Price Tag
 Sticker
 Tapes
 Sizers
 2.1.2 FABRIC INWARD PROCESS FLOW

START
FDR (FABRIC
FABRIC –: P.O,
DISCREPANCY
SUPPLIER NAME,
REPORT)
MATERIAL CODE,
Receipt of Materials with
ORDERED QTY.,
Supplier invoice/DC
FABRIC WIDTH, VISUAL
PARAMETERS,
FRA NOT OK LABORATORY TEST.
(Fabric
Rejectio
n FABRIC / TRIMS INSPECTION

TRIMS TRIMS: P.O, SUPPLIER

OK NAME, MATERIAL
NOT ACCEPT
CODE, ORDERED QTY.,
RTS ENTRY IN EXCEL SHEET VISUAL PARAMETERS,
INTEGRATED WITH BAR CODE LINING, BUTTONS,
ACCEPT SYSTEM TAPE & LABELS, ITEMS
OVERVIEW
A
QUANTITY CONFIRMATION
ACCEPT / WITH
EC

PREPARATION OF GOODS
RECEIPT NOTE

ENTRY OF MATERIAL IN
IDENTIFIED LOCATION IN STORE
2.1.3 TRIMS INWARD

Receives the invoice along

with the material

Verify the material, quantity

and price with order placed

Quality check

Physical: check the

arrived trim with the
No
standard ones

Sent to vendor for

replacement

Yes
GRN
2.1.4 MATERIAL ISSUE
2.2 CAPACITY

According to daily production capacity and warehouse storage capacity of GTL, it can
store 10 Lakh yards fabric which is inventory for 30days.

2.3 THROUGHPUT TIME

• Normally, time taken from fabric inwards to the Goods Receive Note is 3 days.
• The procedure of after FRA depends upon the action of Head Office.

2.4 PROCEDURE OF FABRIC DEPARTMENT FROM INWARDS TO STORAGE

2.4.1 FABRIC INWARD

The fabric rolls from the supplier are received by the helper of the department. The helper
notes the roll number and other details on the sheet and the fabric rolls are unloaded and
kept temporarily in lower cells of the racks which is normally called quarantine area.

After unloading it on the place, the rolls are opened and the roll numbers are entered with
their respective measuring quantity on the Fresh Fabric Receipt. This is then used to enter
information in barcode system. This entry is done using the information mentioned in the
label attached by the supplier or the mill.

Then, the sample of 1.2 meters fabric per style called as blankets is sent to their subsidiary
unit CIPL for the testing procedure.

After the reports of blankets, approved fabric rolls are then stored on the rack.

2.4.2 VISUAL INSPECTION

The fabric inspection is done by the fabric checker, which comes under the Quality
department. The company follows set of rules for the testing procedure:-
2.4.3 IDENTIFICATION OF DEFECTS

 All defects must flag with an adhesive label or chalk and swift at the area of defects.

 Bullet tacks at the selvedge are highly recommended.

2.4.4 INSPECTION QUANTITY

 Textile Supplier must inspect 100% of their fabric before shipment.

 Quality Inspector needs to audit as per below Sampling Plan.

LOT SIZE SAMPLE SIZE

(Number of Rolls) (Number of Rolls Inspected)

2-8 2

9-15 3

16-25 5

26-50 8

51-90 13

91-150 20

151-280 32

2.4.5 FABRIC INSPECTION SYSTEM

POINT INSPECTION SYSTEM

 Rolls are kept at ‘Feeding Roll (Back Winding Roll)’ which is aligned at the centre of
machine

 Threading of the machine is done, while threading the ‘Reset Meter Button’ is
pressed. That resets the meter gauge at 00:00 position

 Fabric width is checked.

 Fabric checking is done at constant speed by 1 operator

  Appropriate stickers are put to identify the defect.

 Fabric defects are noted down in the inspection sheet.

 Total defect points are calculated on the basic of 4-point system & compared with
the 4-point system standard.

 Green Textile Limited follow a four point inspection system. This numeric grading has
been endorsed by American Standard Testing and Materials (ASTM) and American
Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA). The four point inspection system
include:-

 No more than four penalty points can be assigned for the single defects.

 No more than four penalty points may be assigned to 1 linear yard/ metre,
regardless of the number of defects within that one metre.

Defects in both warp/fill and weft are assigned points on the basis of the following criteria:

Defect Length Points to be Allotted

Defects 3” or less 1

Defect greater than 3” and up to 6” 2

Defect greater than 6” and up to 9” 3

Defects greater than 9” 4

Holes and Openings

1” or less 2

More than 1” 4
2.4.6 DEFECTS INSPECTED

Following are the defects are inspected during the inspection:-

 Swatch is cut for identification Colour Shade variation:

 Roll-To-Roll variation

 Centre to Selvedge variation

 Shrinkage test

 Swatch size are:

o Roll to Roll shade variation 5 Inch * width of the fabric

o Centre to Selvedge shade variation: 5 Inch *width of the fabric

o Shrinkage test : 1.5 meter * 1.5 meter

 Piece Card is put for roll identification

 Roll is placed on the rack appropriately.

 Colour Shade Variations:

o Type of colour shade variation:

 Roll to roll variation

 Centre To Selvedge Variation

o Roll to roll variation:

 To check the roll-to-roll shade variation

 Sample swatch size: 5 Inch * width of the fabric

 Machine: Colour Matching Machine.

 Machine Specification: D-65 Light

 Sample is kept on 45 degree inclined plate of Colour Matching

Machine.

 ‘Roll-to-Roll’ shade variation in lengthwise and width wise direction.

2.5 INSPECTION CAPACITY

The inspection capacity is 3000 meters per machine per day. The number of visual
inspection machine is one. The actual speed may vary depending upon the fabric type.

2.5.1 INSPECTION MACHINE

Make – Ramson’s

o Large viewing glass with two way lighting system facilities easy viewing and
inspection with a totally detachable body.

o CNC aligned rollers with shafts in perfect alignment for proper movement with
fabric, complete with inverter drive for flexibility of inspection speed at the touch of
a button.

o Convenient hand pendant for easy, immediate control to inch forward/backward.

o Emergency stop functions incorporated.

 o The machine comes fitted with Japanese meter counter for cross checking as well as
a fabric holding tray.

o The system consists of a variable speed AC motor with its attachable timer relay
system. DC boards and electronics form an internal part of the system.

o The uninspected fabric roll is loaded from the back of the machine. The take up roller
is place in front. As the take up rollers moves, fabric from the uninspected roll is
unwind and passes through the inspection region. The operator looks for the defects
and assigns the point based on the 4 point system.

2.5.0 TRIMS INSPECTION PROCEDURE

Trims are integral part of garment design. Purpose of inspection is to explore the quality
factors of various trims used on apparel and also increase awareness among the trims supplier
and sourcing team about the quality parameters.

Like fabrics trims & support materials are also inspected for the defects. The most important
trims inspected in the garment industry are buttons, interlining, labels, zippers, elastic, sewing
threads etc. They are checked for good strength, color fastness, & durability etc. Trims and
accessories differ in inspection procedure from each other due to their character and type.

Following is the list of inspection points that the Quality Checker check in trim.

2.5.1 SEWING THREAD

Sewing thread checked and tested for the following characteristics:

o Construction - ticket size, no of ply, TPI, twist balance etc.

o Sew ability- At least three sewing thread packages from a lot should be used for 100
meters of sewing under normal conditions.
o Imperfections- free from knots and slubs.
o Finish and Lubricant should be consistent.
o Winding of sewing thread on packages should be uniform.
o Matching with the specification - colour, size etc.
2.5.2 ZIPPERS

o Zippers are checked for the following

o Correct width, shape and size of tape
o Top and Bottom stop fastened securely
o Wrinkling: Zipper should not cause wrinkling or puckering after it is sewn into
garment.
o Durability: with stand to wash & dry-clean conditions.
o Color uniformity
o Smooth running/puller movement
o Matching with the specification
o Damages if any.

2.5.3 BUTTONS

o Buttons should be inspected for the following

o Clean Sew holes, free from flash
o Proper location in relation to the edge of the button
o Thickness uniformity
o Color and shade of the button should be within certain visual tolerance
o Finishing and Surface Polishing
o Matching with the specification
o Functionality
o Durability: Able to wash, dry clean and pressing without changes in color and
cracking, melting etc.

2.5.4 RIVETS

o Rivets are checked for the following

o Any visual defects such as sharp edges
o Rust proof finish
o Matching with specification- Color, Size etc.
o Damages if any.
2.5.5 INTERLINING / FUSING

o Performance testing reports are most important.

o No noticeable shrinkage to avoid bubbling
o Color compatibility with the base fabric

2.5.6 LABELS

o Labels are checked for the following

o Clarity of text
o Free from Raw edges, finishing (as near to skin)
o Text must be readable and durable after laundering
o Type/shape/width of the label
o Printing /weaving defects.

2.5.7 WASH CARE

o Wash Care are checked for the following

o Clarity of text
o Printing defects
 COMPUTER AIDED
DESIGN
DEPARTMENT(CADD)
3.0 COMPUTER AIDED DESIGN DEPARMENT

TUKATECH software was used for maker making.

In GTL, CADD only makes markers. Pattern making and grading was done by head office at
Hong Kong. CADD at Head office prepares pattern according to the sizes provided by the
buyer and send to GTL.

Markers are made keeping in mind the following factors:

o Mode of spreading

o Width of the fabric available

o CSV & shade variation

o Shrinkage along warp and weft

o Size ratio required

o Visual inspection

The markers contain the following details:

o Size

o Total garment patterns

o Marker efficiency

o Fabric yield

o Marker length

o Average consumption per garment

The marker made is first taken out on the printer (miniature version markers). The full size
markers are printed through on the plotter. The usual marker efficiency achieved is 80%-
85%.
 CUTTING
DEPARTMENT
4.0 CUTTING SECTION :
Cutting is the pre-production activity of separating a spread into garment pieces according
to the size and shape of pattern piece on the marker. It also involves marking notches.

MAJOR FUNCTIONS OF CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

a) To make the cut order plan for all type of fabrics i.e. shell, lining, interlining
according to the work order sheet.
b) Getting the markers made from the CAD.
c) Getting the fabric issued from the stores according to the cut order plan.
d) Laying the fabric
e) Meeting the requirement of the sewing department by providing them with the cut
panels on the right time.
f) Relaying, trimming, dart marking.
g) Ticketing and bundling of the cut panels
h) Returning the remnant roll to the stores
i) Maintaining the records
j) Checking the quality of the cut panels

4.0.1 REPORTS PREPARED BY CUTTING DEPARTMENT:

o Spreading/Lay Sheet
o Bundling Report
o Re-cut Requisition Slip
o Daily Cut Plan
o Sewing Input Report
o Table Plan
4.0.1 SPREADING DEPARTMENT:

o Spreading is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a spreading table or

cutting table.
o A lay length is the total amount of fabric prepared for the single marker.
o A spread may consist of a single ply or multiple plies.
o Depending upon the size ratio in the work order; no of plies are decided.
o The height of the lay-up or spread is dependent on the fabric characteristics, size
ratio of the order, cutting method.
o Spreading is done manually.
o Two people are used for the spreading.
o One person works from the side of the spreading table to keep the fabric flat,
smooth, and tension free.
o There are 3 spreading lines with a total of 5 tables and 1 table for bundling.
o Each Spreading table has an end- cutter.
o Fabric trolleys are used for keeping the cutting WIP rolls for a day.
o In case of shade variation between the rolls, a piece of paper is spread upon the lay to
distinguish between the two plies.
4.0.2 COMMON SPREADING DEFECTS:

a) Plies misaligned
b) Incorrect tension of plies
c) Fabric spread too tight or too loose, causing parts not to fit in sewing and finished
garment not to meet size tolerance.
d) Unacceptable damages situated in garment parts.
e) Rolls of unequal width spread in one lay.

Fig.Uneven width of fabric spread together

4.0.3 COMMON CHECKPOINTS:

Spreader should be checking for:

o Markers: Ensure that no makers are creased, damaged, or have overlapping parts.
o Marker Placement: Be sure that the marker on top of the cut and the marker given
for that work order are same.
o Narrow Goods: After the completion of a spread, check the far edge of the spread to
see that all the plies extend beyond the marker line.
o Tension: Check tension during spreading.
o Leaning: Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to the table
top.
o Remnants: End piece are needed for re-cut or rework and used to make another
garment and small pieces are dumped.
o Fabric Flaws: When sections of fabric are removed due to flaws, it must be recorded.
o Defects: Any defects found must be reported and checked 100%.
o Ends: Ends should be ½ inch.
o Spreader should spread rolls according to shade. If two shades must be used in order
to complete a spread, tissue paper should be used to separate the rolls.
o Spreaders should also make sure that fabric defects are cut out of the rolls of fabric
before they are spread.
o If the fabric received from the store is short than the work order consumption then
report to the cutting in charge and send a report to fabric store.

4.0.4 CUTTING PROCESS:

o Total area allotted to cutting department is 4432.5 sq.ft

o Fabric lay is cut using the straight knife cutting machine.
o No of straight knife cutting machine available in the cutting room is 11.
o No automatic cutter present.
o The cutting operator is responsible for checking the quality of cut pieces and ensures
that the pieces are cut in full and up to the desired measurement and position.
o Ticketing is the process after cutting. All the pieces numbered immediately at the end of table
as soon as the parts are cut.
o After numbering inspection of cut pieces is done. Defective cut pieces need to be re-
cut.
o Then parts like waistband, fly, welt pocket are sent for fusing.
o There 2 continuous fusing machines in the cutting section.
o During fusing it is important to regulate the temperature, pressure and time otherwise
it can led to permanent change in colour of pieces.
o Light fabric shades are first put on a thin white paper and are then sent into fusing
machine to ensure that there is no staining of cut pieces coming for fusing.
o Operators are responsible for cleaning the machine.
o The conveyor is cleaned to remove fusing materials attached to the conveyor bed.

Fig. Long parts like waistband being fused.

4.0.5 PROCESS FLOW OF CUTTING :

CUT PLAN ISSUED

1 DAY IN ADVANCE
SENT TO WAREHOUSE
MANAGER & CUTTING R
MANAGER E
W
O
NOT OK R
CHECKING
K
OF CUT
PLAN

OK

ISSUE TO CUTTING
DEPARTMENT

MATERIAL REQUISITION FORM TABLE PLAN

SENT TO WAREHOUSE ON MADE BY CUTTING SUPERVISOR
APPROVAL OF ON APPROVAL OF
CUTTING MANAGER MANAGER

ISSUE MATERIAL
FOR CUTTING

SPREADING

CUTTING

A
 R
A NUMBERING E
W
O
R
K

NOT OK
INSPECTION
INSPECTION
100% PANEL INSPECTION
RESULT
AFTER CUTTING

OK OK

FUSABLE PARTS EMBROIDERED PARTS

PARTS LIKE WAISTBAND, WELT POCKETS/PANELS SENT TO
POCKET, FACING, FLY SENT TO OTHER FACTORY FOR
FUSING AREA. EMBROIDERY

BUNDLING
BUNDLING OF PARTS
(20PC/BUNDLE) IN
ACCORDANCE WITH B.L.

INPUT RACKS

LOAD SENT TO
SEWING LINES
 SEWING
DEPARTMENT
5.0.1 PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

The most important department in any garment unit is the sewing department since the
production depends upon it. The overall responsibility of production is on the Factory
Manager followed by the Production Manager and the Line Chiefs. When production of new
style starts a pilot run is carried out in the sewing department for the operator to get used
to the style. The respective line in-charge will make a full sample of the garment and call
operators section wise and make them understand the style requirements. If any operator
has confusion she can also refer the Seal sample placed near the

inspection table. The idea is to make everyone comfortable and ready for the new set of
operations required for the particular style. Most of the operators are trained and don’t find
the new style difficult.

The sewing floor has 10 lines. Names of the lines are as follows – L1, L2, L3, L4,, L5, L6, L7,
L8, L9, L10. A line consists of 65 workstations on an average. No conveyor or UPS system is
being used. Material handling is done manually. Total area of sewing floor is 27882.2 sq.ft.

Sewing room has total of 801 machine operators. Total number of iron man is 15 and there
are 44 floaters kept for absenteeism. Each line has its own separate set of finishing section at
the end of the line which includes trimming, checking, stain removal, ironing, thread sucking,
final inspection, tagging & packaging.
A sewing line has mainly 4 parts –

 CPU parts
 Front part
 Back part
 Assembly

Quality control was done by inline inspection, for each front and back separately and
also by endline inspection (100% check) and only then it was followed by finishing.
One bundle carries 20-25 pieces. Due to the use of progressive bundle system WIP is high.
The average sewing production including all lines is 13000 pieces daily whereas the potential
capacity is for 18000 pieces daily.

5.0.2 PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT HEIRARCHY:

Sewing Room has 10 sewing lines. Factory Manager is the head of the production
department, who eventually reports to COO. There are 2 Production Managers handling 5
lines each. There is 1 Line Chief per two lines and 2 supervisors per line. Also one quality
assurance manager is responsible for 2 lines, i.e. 5 managers in total.

Reports Generated –

 Hourly Production Report,

 In-line Inspection Report,
 End of line inspection report,
 Operation wise production report
 Daily Overall production
 WIP report.
5.0.3 UNDERSTANDING CORE PRODUCT:
Studying Line No.7 File - GTL – 64 Destination - Canada

Style : J.C Penny Cargo Shorts 6 pckts

OPERATIONAL BREAKDOWN

Operational breakdown and SAM values for CPU area.

Serl
Zone Section Operation Description Machine name S.A.M
No

1 CPU Loops Loop making (5 Loops) DN L/S 0.20

2 CPU Waistband Attached Piping to WB SN CHAIN 0.15
3 CPU Attached Care lable & Size to WB Pipin S/N L/S 0.20
4 CPU Make Flap with Jig S/N L/S 0.35
5 CPU Flap - Back Trim & Turn Flap Table 0.25
6 CPU & Cargo Top Stitch Flap - 1/4 DN L/S SLP BAR 0.30
7 CPU Stay Stitch S/N L/S 0.25
8 CPU B/Hole (Eyelet) Bk Flap EYLET Hole 0.20
9 CPU Decoration Stitch - Back Pocket DN L/S SLP BAR 0.40
10 CPU Heming - Back Pocket S/N L/S 0.30
11 CPU Crease - Back Pocket Iron 0.30
12 CPU Attach - Velcro at Inner Flap VELCRO ATT MC 0.50
13 CPU Make - Flap with Jig S/N L/S 0.30
14 CPU Cut & Turn - Flap Table 0.55
15 CPU Top Stitch - Flap (1/4) DN L/S SLP BAR 0.45
16 CPU Stay Stitch - Flap E/CUTTER 0.55
17 CPU Top stitch - Cargo Pocket Pleat S/N L/S 0.50
18 CPU Tack - Cargo Pocket Top & Bottom S/N L/S 0.30
19 CPU Mark - Cargo Pocket Table 0.85
20 CPU Attach - Cargo Pocket (Top Stitch) S/N L/S 0.35
21 CPU Heming - Cargo Pocket S/N L/S 0.30
22 CPU Attach - Velcro to Cargo Pocket VELCRO ATT MC 0.60
 Operational breakdown and SAM calculation for front part.

23 Ass 1 Front Attach - Front pocket Facing to Pocket Bag (2x2) S/N L/S 0.45
24 Ass 1 Close & Turn - Front Pocket close Bag 3 T O/L 0.65
25 Ass 1 Top Stitch - Front Pocket (1/4) with turning
S/N L/S 0.40
Serg - Single fly, Double fly & Front Rise
26 Ass 1
Attach - Single fly 4 T O/L 0.45
Attach - Zipper to Fly
27 Ass 1 Attach - Fly To Body DN L/S UBT 0.30
Top Stitch - on Single fly
DN L/S UBT 0.35
28 Ass 1 "J" Stitch - On Front
S/N L/S 0.35
29 Ass 1 Attach - Double Fly to Front with Zipper
S/N L/S 0.30
30 Ass 1 Top Stitch - on Fly with Zipper
31 Ass 1 Join - Front Crotch S/N L/S 0.30

32 Ass 1 Top Stitch - Front Crotch S/N L/S 0.55

Attach - Front Pocket bag to Front with Piping (By S/N L/S 0.45
33 Ass 1
Folder)
34 Ass 1 Top Stitch - Front Pocket (1/4) with Mark DN L/S UBT 0.55

35 Ass 1 Tack - Front Pocket Top & Bottom S/N L/S 0.45

Operational breakdown and SAM calculation for back part.

36 Ass 1 Back Make - Dart S/N L/S 0.30

37 Ass 1 Join - Back Rise 5 T O/L 0.25
38 Ass 1 Top Stitch - Back Rise DN L/S UBT 0.45
Mark - Back Pocket & Re- Table 0.80
39 Ass 1
Enforcement Place
40 Ass 1 Attach - Back Re-Enforcement S/N L/S 0.85
41 Ass 1 Attach - Back Pocket - 1st Stitch S/N L/S 0.35
42 Ass 1 Attach - Back Pocket - 2nd Stitch S/N L/S 0.30
43 Ass 1 Attach - Back Pocket Flap S/N L/S 0.30
44 Ass 1 Top Stitch - Back Pocket Flap S/N L/S 0.50
45 Ass 1 Bartack - Back Pocket & Flap ( 8) BT 0.60
 Operational breakdown and SAM calculation for assembly area

46 Ass 2 Assembly Match - Front, Back, Waist band & Loop Table 0.50
47 Ass 2 Sew - Side Seam 5 T O/L 0.45
48 Ass 2 Top Stitch - Side Seam DN L/S UBT 0.65
49 Ass 2 Mark - Side Pocket Table 0.45
50 Ass 2 Match - Side Pocket & Flap Table 0.70
51 Ass 2 Attach - Cargo Pocket Re-Inforcement S/N L/S 0.80
52 Ass 2 Attach - Cargo Pocket S/N L/S 0.70
53 Ass 2 Tack - Cargo Pocket for bartack (4x2) S/N L/S 0.65
54 Ass 2 Attach - Flap for Cargo Pocket (Open) S/N L/S 0.35
55 Ass 2 Top Stitch - on Flap Seam (1/4") S/N L/S 0.55
56 Ass 2 Bartack - Cargo Pocket & Flap (6x2) BT 0.85
57 Ass 2 Mark - Waist and Loop Position Table 0.50
58 Ass 2 Tack - Loop to body E/CUTTER 0.75
59 Ass 2 Attach - Waist Band to Body KANSAI MC 0.75
60 Ass 2 WB Mouth cut & Thread Open Table 1.00
60 Ass 2 Main Lable attach S/N L/S 0.35
61 Ass 2 Close - Waist Band End (L side) S/N L/S 0.40
62 Ass 2 Close - Waist Band End (R side) S/N L/S 0.55
63 Ass 2 Close - Inseam 5 T O/L 0.50
64 Ass 2 Top Stitch - Inseam DN L/S UBT 0.80
65 Ass 2 Marking Loop length & Hem Table 0.30
66 Ass 2 Loop deep Tack S/N L/S 0.30
67 Ass 2 Hem - Bottom with Body Turn S/N L/S 0.65
68 Ass 2 Bartack - Loop (5x2) / Top & Bottom BT 0.65
69 Ass 2 Bartack - Front Pocket + Crotch BT 0.40
70 Ass 2 Thread trimming & body Turning Table 0.40

Calculation of SMV = BASIC TIME + ALLOWANCE

BASIC TIME = OBSERVED TIME X OBSERVED RATING

CALCULATION OF LINE EFFICINCY:
𝑨𝒄𝒉𝒊𝒆𝒗𝒆𝒅 𝑯𝒐𝒖𝒓𝒔
 Line efficiency = 𝑿 𝟏𝟎𝟎
𝑻𝒐𝒕𝒂𝒍 𝑨𝒗𝒂𝒊𝒍𝒂𝒃𝒍𝒆 𝑯𝒐𝒖𝒓𝒔

PRODUCTION / HOUR
300

250
PIECES PRODUCED

200

150

100

50
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
TARGET PRODUCTION 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200 200
ACTUAL PRODUCTION 150 150 150 165 190 175 170 180 180 265

HOURLY PRODUCTION FOR L-7

𝐴𝑐ℎ𝑖𝑒𝑣𝑒𝑑 𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠
 Line efficiency = 𝑋 100
𝑇𝑜𝑡𝑎𝑙 𝐴𝑣𝑎𝑖𝑙𝑎𝑏𝑙𝑒 𝐻𝑜𝑢𝑟𝑠
𝑆𝑀𝑉 𝑋 𝑃𝐼𝐸𝐶𝐸𝑆 𝑃𝑅𝑂𝐷𝑈𝐶𝐸𝐷
= 𝑋 100
𝑀𝐴𝑁𝑃𝑂𝑊𝐸𝑅 𝑋 𝐻𝑂𝑈𝑅𝑆 𝐴𝑉𝐴𝐼𝐿𝐴𝐵𝐿𝐸
24.90 𝑋 1775
= 𝑋 100
83 𝑋 600 𝑀𝐼𝑁𝑆

Line efficiency = 88.70 %

EFFICIENCY VARIANCE TREND:
 EFFICIENCY/HOUR
120
100
80
60
40
20
0
H1 H2 H3 H4 H5 H6 H7 H8 H9 H10

 Y-Axis denotes number of pieces produced.

 X-Axis denotes hours of factory shift.
 The graph demonstrates variance in production in different hours.
 This variance may arise due to several reasons like:
1. Machine breakdown
2. Power failure
3. Operator absent after lunch
4. All reworks and alterations done in last hour.

5.0.4 CHALLENGES OF SEWING SECTION:

  Major challenge of sewing area was material and bundle handling in GTL.
 There were no proper input and disposal racks in line.
 Insufficient stands for long parts.

Fig. Current situation of a sewing line in terms of bundle handling

Suggested improvisation:

 All sewing lines should be introduced with proper pickup and disposal bins on each
workstation.
 These bins should be designed and installed according to the type of operation and
parts.
 Bins designed will aim towards easy material handling.
 It will increase productivity of each operator.
 Better bundle handling.
 Gives neater look to the workstation.

Suggested design:
 Left side part pickup extension Right side part pickup extension

 Small extensions near the sewing operator on both left and right side (according to
the image).
 Level of these extensions can be few inches above the machine table.
 Area of implication: pocket facing, fusing part attachment, zippers etc.

2. LONG PART HANDLING:

Second major challenge is in the assembly area

of sewing lines. There is no provision or

extensions in that area for easy handling of

assembled garment parts.

  Operator often seen using their lap or hand for keeping garment parts, especially in
assembly area.
 Handling becomes difficult.
 Curved extension provided are not suitable for all workstations , especially in
assembly area.

Suggested design:

 A wider table attachment on the suitable side of the operator handling full garment
(assembly).

 Will have the provision of getting folded if not required.

 Area of implementation: BarTack operations, waistband join, inseam join etc.

 INDUSTRIAL
ENGINEERING
6.0 INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT

Functions:

o Operation breakdown and style wise work station layout designing.

o Preparing operation bulletins.

o Allocating the workers and monitoring the performance via method study.

o Allocation of floaters to overcome the absenteeism (approx. 6.8%).

o In sewing section the main job of the IE is line balancing, clearing the bottle necks,
time study, allocating right person to the right job, motivating the operator etc

6.1 PROCESS FLOW

Monitor efficiency on daily basis

In case of Bottlenecks, verify targets and

evaluate capacity of operators by time study

Improving low performers to production

level

Multi skilling of operators

Prepare factory efficiency, and other MIS

Work on continuous improvements of

modules by setting new targets

Work on work station engineering and

layout standardizations
6.2.1 FUNCTIONS FOR NEW STYLE

Receive sample for a new style

Understanding the style

Preparation of the line management

Execution of pilot-run

Check-list

Introducing the style in main lines

Operation and Re- Engineering

Operation Skill Matrix

Execute of commando operator

Job Responsibility

Reports
 FINISHING
DEPARTMENT
7.0 FINISHING DEPARTMENT

The finishing department is mainly responsible for the trimming, inspection, pressing. This
means that they are concerned with the final presentation of the garment. This means this
department directly caters to the customer’s satisfaction. The customer satisfaction which is
the prime objective of any company justifies the great importance of the finishing
department.

14.1 DEPARTMENT HIERARCHY

Factory
Manager

Quality
Officer

Finishing Quality
Supervisor Supervisor

Trimmers

Button
attach
operator

Button hole
operator

Pressing
operator

Garment
folder
operator
7.2 MAJOR FUNCTIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT

1) Trimming

2) Inspection

3) Pressing

4) Folding

5) Packaging

6) Quality Checking

START

EXTRA THREAD TRIMMING REPLACE

REWORK
REJECT

LOOSE THREAD REMOVED IN THREAD

SUCKING MACHINE

FULL BODY PRESSING

BUTTON ATTACHMENT & FIT LABEL

RECEIPT AFTER REWORK

FINAL INSPECTION & REWORK – SENT FOR STAIN

ATTACH PRICE TAG REMOVAL USING
SOLVENT/CHEMICALS S, DARNING,
SEWING REWORK

COLLAR SUPPORT AND BUTTER

FLY & INSERTION OF COLLAR
TRAVELLER
COMPANY PROJECTS
 PROJECT 1 – PLANNING STORAGE &
EFFICIENCY IN NEW WAREHOUSE

WAREHOUSE CAPACITY DETERMINATION:

 Total number of racks = 9
 Total number of bins/cells = 568.
 Dimension of each cell = 94” X 44.5” x 59”
 Allotted cells for Fabric (shell/interlining/pocketing) = 412
 Allotted cells for Trims = 156
 Total number of cells available =
 Average yardage of 1 Shell fabric roll = 110 yds.
 Average capacity of 1 cell = 40 rolls, therefore capacity of 1 cell for shell
fabric = 4400 yards.
 With 70% loading efficiency, capacity of 1 cell = 28 rolls =
 Average number of Pocketing rolls a cell can accommodate = 50, with
average yardage = 200yds.
 Average number of Fusing rolls a cell can accommodate = 200, with
average length = 109 yard.
 Maximum Thread quantity in 1 cone = 5,000 meters.

CALCULATION OF INVENTORY:
 Taking the maximum fabric consumption per garment = 1.2 yards.

 Consumption of pocketing material per garment = 0.28 yards.

 Consumption of fusing material per garment = 0.30 yards.

 Consumption of thread per garment = 485 meters.

 Total number of cells available = 568

  Using the available space, we can hold an inventory for 32 days (5+
weeks), which is = 997920 yards.

 Breakdown of allocated space is as follows:

POCKETING

FABRIC INTERLINING

SHELL

THREAD

BUTTONS
MATERIAL BREAKDOWN
LABELS

VELCRO

TRIMS ZIPPER

TAGS

POLYBAG

EMPTY CARTONS

HANGERS

PLANNING 32 DAY INVENTORY:

1. FOR SHELL FABRIC:

 Consumption/ garment = 1.2 yards

 Total production / day = 26000 pieces
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total fabric to be stocked = 1.2 X 26000 X 32 = 997920 yards.

 Now, capacity of 1 cell = 3080 yards. Therefore total number of cells

required for fabric = 997920/3080

324
cell
 Total fabric rejected = 10 % = 99792 yards.
s
 Total fabric leftover = 5 % = 49896 yards.

2. FOR POCKETING MATERIAL:

 Consumption/ garment = 0.28 yards

 Total production / day = 26000 pieces
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total fabric to be stocked = 0.28 X 26000 X 32 = 2329600 yards.

 Now, capacity of 1 cell = 10,000 yards. Therefore total number of cells

required for fabric = 2329600/10000

23
cel
ls
3. FOR FUSING MATERIAL

 Consumption/ garment = 0.30yards

 Total production / day = 26000 pieces
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total fusing material to be stocked = 0.30 X 26000 X 32 = 2496000 yards.

 Now, capacity of 1 cell = 20,000 yards. Therefore total number of cells

required for fusing = 2496000 /20000

12
cells
 Total cells utilized for pocketing, shell fabric, fusing material
= 324 + 23 + 12 = 359 cells.

4. FOR THREAD INVENTORY:

 Average Consumption/garment = 300 meters.

 Total production / day = 26000 pieces
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total thread requirement = 249600000 meters for 32 days.
 Now, Maximum thread in 1 cone = 5000 meters.
 Capacity of 1 crate = 65 cones.

 Therefore, number of crates required = 403520000/325000

768
5. LABELS: crates
.
 Average number of labels required/ garment = 2.
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 1664000

 Capacity of 1 cell = 3,60,000

5 cells

6. VELCRO

 Average number of Velcro required/ garment = 2.

 Inventory period = 36 days.
 Total requirement = 1664000
 Capacity of 1 cell = 3,60,000

 No. of cells required = 1664000 /360000

5 cells

7. ZIPPERS:

 Average number of zippers required/ garment = 1.

 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 832000
 Capacity of 1 drawer = 3000 zippers
 Capacity of 1 cell = 45,000 zippers
 No. of cells required = 832000/45000

18 cells

8. HANGTAGS:

 Average number of hangtags required/ garment = 2.

 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 1664000
 Capacity of 1 crate = 12000 tags
 Capacity of 1 cell = 12000X2X9 = 216000 tags
 No. of cells required = 1664000 /216000

8 cells

9. BUTTON:

 Average number of hand buttons required/ garment = 3.

 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 2496000
 Capacity of 1 crate = 15X1440 = 21600 buttons
 Capacity of 1 cell = 21600x2x9 = 388800 buttons
 No. of cells required = 2496000 /388800

6 cells

10. EMPTY CARTONS:

 Average number of garments/carton = 10
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 2600
 With 70% loading efficiency number of carton in 1 cell= 300
 No. of cells required = 2600*7 /300

60 cells

11. POLYBAG:

 Average number of polybag required/ garment = 1.

 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 832000
 Capacity of 1 carton = 2500 polybag
 With 70% loading efficiency number of carton= 28

 Capacity of 1 cell= 2800*2500= 70000

 No. of cells required = 832000 /70000

12 cells

12. HANGERS:
 Number of hangers in 1 carton = 200
 Inventory period = 32 days.
 Total requirement = 10000
 With 70% loading efficiency number of carton in 1 cell= 30
 No. of cells required = 320000/200*30

53 cells
 TOTAL CELL BREAKDOWN

POLYBAG
2%
BUTTON HANGERS
1% 10%
HANG EMPTY CARTON
TAG 11%
1%
ZIPPER
3% SHELL FABRIC
58%
VELCRO
1%
LABEL
1%

THREAD
6% FUSING
2%
POCKETING
4%

Above demonstrated pie chart depicts the percentage of space allotted to each
material (fabric or trim) in terms of bins.
IMPROVING STORAGE EFFICIENCY IN WAREHOUSE:

In raw material warehouse, it was observed that there were frequent problems due to lack
of storage area. Frequently containers were booked on rent to store materials for few days,
which incurred extra cost. Very often inspected rolls were seen in the quarantine area as
there was no sufficient space in the inventory area. Extra cells were given to the trims
storage area as capacity of each cell was utilised to the maximum.

KEY OBSERVATIONS MADE:

 The design of warehouse bins/cells was not material specific.

 Same type of cells was used for fabric as well as trims, leading to poor storage
efficiency.

 Storage efficiency for trims was as poor as 60-65%.

 There was a great scope of improving storage pattern for smaller items like labels
and tags.

 Crates were being used for storage of all kinds of trims and then placed on one over
the other and stacked into the cells.

 Stacking of 4 crates, one over the other, made it very difficult for the workers to
issue trims if the bottom crate was to be used.

 Trim issuing time was very high and complicated.

 Material identification was one of the major problems for workers as all the trims
were placed in the crates.

 Inventory records were scattered, some in register, some in excels.

 Biggest problem of the warehouse was the frequent theft for expensive material like
zippers.

 Trim storage was not only unorganised, but was also not secure.
Thread storage - stacking of crates in such high cell makes it very difficult for worker
to issue material from the bottom most crate.

Zipper storage area – poor space utilisation and insecure storage (high theft risk)
 Storage of smaller trims like tags and labels were stored in above demonstrated
manner.

Wastage of cell capacity for hangtag storage

SUGGESTED STORAGE METHOD:
 To solve this issue of zipper storage, we designed a new storage system which would
convert the existing cell into drawer type storage, which will be secure with a lock.

 Converting cell into drawer will drastically increase the space efficiency.

 Easy material identification will allow the workers to issue material quickly and will
reduce issuing time.

Suggested design for zippers

 For thread storage, crates should not be allowed to stack over the second crate.
Instead cell should be divided into smaller division with lesser height for easy reach.
 We suggested that storage area has to be material specific, different storage pattern
for different trim.
 Color coding can be done for thread storage. Different buyer can be allotted
different color.
IMPLEMENTAION:
Based on our design, one cell was changed and a pilot phase was conducted to check the
feasibility and challenges of the design. Cost of manufacturing storage capacity for one cell
for sample was quoted 45,000tk ($560 USD).

Zipper storage in the sample cell

 COMPARISON

 We designed the format of

zipper, which would allow easy Sticker on each drawer for easy
material identification. identification

 The sticker has following details :

1. File no.
2. Shade
3. Zipper size
4. Input quantity

New Cell Capacity = 81,000 zippers

 Security locks to Segregation
prevent theft (File,shade,size,buy
er,quantity)

2. DIVIDING CELLS FRO EASY CRATE STACKING :

New Cell
Division

Maximum two
crates in one bin for
easy reach.
3. STORAGE FOR SMALLER TRIMS:

 We observed that storage of smaller trims like labels, hangtags, main labels has to be
redesigned.
 Maximum space utilisation has to be made with easy material identification.

 Sample for one cell was made for storage of one file main label.
 One bin was divided into 3 trays with 4 compartments on each tray.
 Hangtags of different sizes can be placed in different compartments.
 Cell looks much more organised and systematic.
 New Cell Capacity = 6 Lakh Labels

 This is how cell looked after implementation of our design.

 This design is capable of storing around 6 lakh main label (1200 boxes) in one cell.

 Material identification is easy as description and item sample is pasted in front of

tray.
 Details Label for easy
(style no., label type, identification
brand)

COMPARISON