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Dress

The Journal of the Costume Society of America

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To cite this article: (2015) Reviews, Dress, 41:2, 152-160

To link to this article: http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/03612112.2015.1130399

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152

Exhibiting Fashion:
Before and After 1971
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Judith Clark and Amy De La Haye


with Jeffrey Horsley
New Haven: Yale University Press, 2014

A quick browsing through the pages of on how to approach the analysis of fashion
Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971 curatorial practices as well as a solid chron-
will instantly capture anyone interested in icle of a definitive moment when museums
fashion and particularly those enamored by began to fully embrace fashion as a worthy
the fascinating world of museum fashion museum object.
exhibitions. The book rightly reflects the Exhibiting Fashion is divided into five
field of fashion curating as vibrant, visually chapters, the first three by De La Haye.
impactful, and thrilling. The text itself is rich In chapter 1, she covers the exhibition
and offers the in-depth analysis that can be of fashion in museums before 1971,
expected from scholars of Amy de la Haye’s incorporating several case studies for
and Judith Clark’s caliber. The book properly exhibitions and for curatorial practices.
acknowledges 1971 as a seminal year in Chapters 2 and 3 are devoted to Beaton’s
the history of fashion at museums marked exhibit. In chapter 4, titled “28 Aspects,”
by Cecil Beaton’s famed exhibit Fashion: An Judith Clark offers her analysis of Fashion:
Anthology at the Victoria and Albert Museum An Anthology. The final chapter in the book
(V&A) in London, England. Fashion: An provides an inventory of fashion exhibitions
Anthology heralded the rise of fashion and since 1971 as compiled by Jeffrey Horsley.
dress as museum artifacts. Reading the immensely informative and
The authors explain that the book is entertaining chapters in the book, the reader
the result of years of conversation about clearly understands the significance of
fashion curation while they were both pro- Beaton’s work on exhibit design, installation,
fessors at the London College of Fashion. garment selection and presentation, and
Documenting and analyzing Beaton’s exhibit several other aspects of fashion exhibition.
from two somewhat different points of view However, one is left thirsty for connections
makes the final product richly engaging and that are more specific between Beaton’s
reflects the dialogue between the two schol- exhibit and the work that has followed.
ars. De la Haye reviews the exhibit following In the first chapter, De la Haye
traditional historiography and museology discusses the work of pioneer fashion
approaches—examining documents, context, scholars and briefly traces the beginning
objects, and so on—while Clark (known of the V&A’s fashion collection. Here the
for her experimental approach to fashion reader realizes that the book’s title should
curation) engages the exhibit by looking at have mentioned—at least in the form of
details that are usually ignored but become a subtitle—that the discussion centers
in her analysis as relevant as some of the almost exclusively on the development of
most discussed aspects of the exhibit. The fashion exhibitions in England, with great
book thus becomes a valuable document emphasis on the V&A’s impact on the field
© Costume Society of America 2015 DOI 10.1179/0361211215Z.00000000045
Reviews 153

and the perspectives provided by looking aesthete, as well as his professional career
in detail at Beaton’s 1971 exhibit. We find as a costume designer for theater and film,
little information about the development as a designer for fancy dress, and, more
of the fashion curation field in the rest of importantly, as a professional photographer.
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the world, with only sporadic mentions to The assumption here is Beaton’s lifestyle and
similar developments at Palais du Costume interest as a collector of clothing pieces from
in the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1900 style leaders at least partially determined his
and New York’s Metropolitan Museum of approach to curating the exhibit. The chapter
Art. provides very detailed background infor-
The emphasis in chapter 1, then, is on mation about Beaton’s famous exhibit. It
setting up the background for Beaton’s 1971 describes the genesis of the concept and how
exhibit. We learn that the only previous Beaton collected, installed, accessorized, and
showcase of contemporary dress at the V&A displayed the objects. De La Haye explains
was the 1946 show Britain Can Make It. that the V&A’s administration insisted on
We also learn that museum administrators not emphasizing who wore the clothes and
were hesitant about collecting contemporary wanted instead to highlight value in design
pieces or giving much importance to fashion, and materials for the garments on display.
and we are told about the appointment of This approach to fashion as a museum-
the V&A’s first dress curator—Madeleine worthy artifact exclusively due to design ele-
Ginsburg—in the 1950s. Four case studies ments has since dissipated into a myriad of
complete the chapter. The section on Britain approaches to the significance and meaning
Can Make It includes a floor plan and black- of fashion at museums, which often down-
and-white photographs of the exhibition, a play either provenance or design elements.
significant contribution of primary sources Chapter 3 provides a gratifyingly detailed
to the field. The second case study examines record of the exhibition with a number of
the work of James Laver, a writer on the installation shots—many never published
history of dress particularly interested in before—that in themselves represent an
the social and cultural context of fashion. important resource for students of fashion,
Another case study focuses on Doris Langley fashion history, and fashion curation.
Moore, a collector who was instrumental The photographs offer great detail on
in establishing fashion collections in the Beaton’s exhibition themes such as the Dior
United Kingdom. The final case study is on boutique, the display of Elsa Schiaparelli
Anne Buck’s curatorial work, her writings, and Surrealism in the 1930s, Space Age, and
and her work with the C. Willet Cunnington sections on designers such as Mainbocher,
collection of historic dress. These case Givenchy, and Balenciaga.
studies illustrate prevalent practices before The fourth chapter, titled “28 Aspects,”
1971, including approaches to the use of is Judith Clark’s main contribution to
mannequins, the development of texts the book. She writes 28 concise sections
associated with exhibits, and the way describing aspects of Beaton’s exhibit that
artifacts were framed in historic and cultural allow her to analyze the exhibit and show
context with documentation emphasizing how it became so influential and resonant.
chronology and archival information. These aspects range from curatorial practices
In chapter 2, De la Haye narrates Beaton’s such as the work of Michael Haynes—a
life, including childhood passions—the way well-known store window merchandiser
he presented himself as a dandy and an who designed most of the exhibit—to more
154 Exhibiting Fashion

abstract notions, such as how time factors Exhibiting Fashion: Before and After 1971
into the exhibit’s nature as a temporary is a much-needed resource for students,
event that also signals permanent ownership museum professionals, and curators, not
of the objects by the museum. She shows only those in the field of fashion curation,
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that Beaton’s work, albeit usually interpreted but for anyone who wants to understand
as an object-based approach, can easily be the complexities of displaying clothes at a
considered as conceptual. museum. As fashion exhibitions proliferate,
Clark’s work in this section is enriched curators explore new ways to attract visitors
by her open dialogue with the exhibition via and continue challenging notions of what
interviews, letters, and any other primary a fashion exhibit is supposed to be. This
sources she could use to go beyond the book comes at the perfect time to remind
surface of Fashion: An Anthology. In that us that exhibiting fashion at museums was
sense, no “aspect” is too simple or small. from early on a very daring and experimen-
They all reveal some intriguing complexity: tal endeavor. While this contribution to the
the selection of wigs, the painted backdrops, field centers almost exclusively in England,
the props, the set design, the rotating curatorial work of high quality is happen-
platforms. Take, for instance, Clark’s ing around the world. Another recently
discussion on the complexities of distance— published title, Fashion and Museums:
or perhaps, precisely, the proxemics— Theory and Practice, edited by Marie Riegels
between visitors and three-dimensional Melchior and Birgitta Svensson (Bloomsbury,
garments on display. It is nuanced analysis; 2014) presents a number of important
archival research such as this makes the case studies and theoretical documents
book essential and a milestone in the from Scandinavian countries, for instance.
context of scholarship about the display of Publications in this somewhat nascent
fashion in museums and galleries. field of fashion museology are crucial to
It is unfortunate that the book is advancing discussion on how meaning is
designed to set off these pages from the displayed and created through dress exhibi-
rest of the work. The pages are light pink tions and their relevance in the creation and
with hard-to-read pink lettering, as if Clark’s renovation of museum spaces that are more
novel approach to exhibit analysis needed inclusive of diverse artifacts and diverse
additional indications that it was different populations.
from what De la Haye did in previous
chapters. There is no need for this and it José Blanco F.
merely makes the pages hard to read. Associate Professor, Dominican University
River Forest, IL, USA
Reviews 155

Fashion Prints in the Age of


Louis XIV: Interpreting the
Art of Elegance
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Edited by Kathryn Norberg and Sandra L. Rosenbaum


Costume Society of America series, Lubbock: Texas Tech University Press, 2014

In 2002, the Doris Stein Research Center performers, curators, and conservators to 1 The entire collection is available on
the LACMA website: http://
in the department of costume and textiles examine the LACMA Recueil and related collections.lacma.org/search/site/Rec
at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art prints from multiple perspectives. The book ueil%2520des%2520modes?f%5B0%5
D=bm_field_has_image%3Atrue.
(LACMA) acquired an extraordinary group of is organized into three sections: “Part 1:
fashion plates dating from the latter part of The Fashion Print” (chapters 1–4); “Part 2:
the seventeenth century. Bound into a single Contextualizing the Fashion Print” (chapters
volume in 1703–1704, the Recueil des modes 5–8); and “Part 3: The Fashion Print as a
de la cour de France (a collection of fashions Historical Resource” (chapters 9–14).
at the French court), contains prints from In chapter 1, “The Fashion Print: An
the ateliers of several engravers working Ambiguous Object,” Françoise Tétart-Vittu
in Paris at the time. Its 190 hand-colored delineates the background and multiva-
prints—twenty-nine of which are illus- lent functions of late-seventeenth-century
trated in color in this publication—inspired French fashion plates. They glorified the
an exhibition, Images of Fashion from the king; informed those among the wealthy
Court of Louis XIV, organized by the depart- who wanted to be fashionable (but were not
ment of costume and textiles at LACMA, in full-time attendance at the royal court);
and two conferences.1 The first conference, generated business for many of the fashion
“Seventeenth-Century Textiles and Dress,” trades not permitted by the guilds to adver-
was the subject of the LACMA triennial tise; circulated to other European cities, such
R.L. Shep Symposium in April 2005. The as Leipzig and Amsterdam, where relatives of
second, “Fashion in the Age of Louis XIV,” the Paris engravers made copies for the local
co-sponsored by UCLA, was held in June market; and even traveled to India and China
of the same year. As stated in the book’s as embroidery and other design guides.
acknowledgements, the success of these The remaining chapters in this section,
events inspired the publication. “Fashioning Fashionability” by Kathleen
And inspired it is. This volume seeks Nicholson, “The Cris de Paris in the LACMA
to answer a multitude of questions Recueil des Modes” by Paula Rea Radisich, and
about seventeenth-century fashion “Fashions in Prints: Considering the Recueil
prints. Scholars have not agreed on their des modes as an Album of Prints” by Marcia
function, interpretation, intended audience, Reed, are equally interesting, presenting
relationship to actual garments or to the alternative interpretations and analyzing
society that produced them. For the first the prints in relationship to similar plates in
time, this book brings together historians other collections.
of early modern France, fashion theorists, William Ray begins part 2 with chapter 5,
historic dress specialists, theater costumers, “Fashion as Concept and Ethic in
156 Fashion Prints in the Age of Louis XIV

2 The Siamese mission created a


Seventeenth-Century France.” It provides Hackett suggests that the “cris de Paris”
sensation at court; everywhere they a cogent argument for understanding the (the tradesmen and women of the streets
went from their arrival at the port of
Brest to the palace at Versailles, they
prints collected in the Recueil as expres- of Paris who called out their wares) who
drew huge crowds. Michael Gosling, sions of the French obsession with fashion were depicted in the Recueil may in fact
“The First Thai Ambassadors in Louis
XIV’s France,” mentions that the
(in everything and in its broadest meaning) be “members of the court playing them”
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Mercure galant “published several extending far beyond the court. rather than literal representations of the
special volumes devoted to the
Siamese visitors.” http://www.ealrga. “The Fashion Run Seen from Backstage: practitioners of those trades (218). Such
org.au/newsletter1407/1407_gosling_ Saint-Simon’s Memoirs of Louis XIV’s Court” play acting was very popular at Versailles;
1.html, accessed January 12, 2015.
by Malina Stefanovska, and “Louis XIV: King certainly, the “fashionable poses” of the
of Fashion” by Kathryn Norberg, chapters 6 tradespersons in the Recueil were taken from
and 7, respectively, look critically at what dance positions.
we know of actual fashions at the court of Emma Lewis Thomas in chapter 12,
Louis XIV and the king’s own attire. Norberg “Recreating an Entrée, a Minuet, and a
defines the seventeenth-century notion of Chanconne,” writes about Susan Gladstone
fashion as “change for change’s sake,” extend- choreographing a performance of period
ing far beyond clothing (157–159). The two dance, which was so essential to the French
chapters show that the ruler’s fashion edicts court and to an understanding of the fash-
were often ignored and that he was some- ionable poses in the Recueil, at the second
times quite “unfashionable” himself. symposium held at the William Andrews
The final chapter in part 2, “Oriental Clark Library in Los Angeles. Maxwell Barr,
Connections: Merchant Adventurers and the author of chapter 13, “Recreating a Grand
Transmission of Cultural Concepts” by Mary Habit,” details the challenges and rewards
Schoeser, discusses the internationalism of of recreating a grand habit from the Recueil
seventeenth-century French (and European) as accurately as possible in the Costume
fashion as seen in the prints. Persia, Turkey, Shop at UCLA’s School of Theater, Film and
Mughal India, and even Siam (as the Television.
result of a diplomatic visit by the Siamese The fourteenth and final chapter, “A
ambassador Kosa Pan to the court of Louis Seventeenth-Century Gown Rediscovered:
XIV from June 1686 to March 1687)2 Work in Progress,” by Catherine McLean,
were all sources of fashion inspiration and Sandra L. Rosenbaum, and Susan Renate
adaptation. Schmalz, describes the extensive analysis and
Chapter 9, “The LACMA Recueil des reconfiguration of a late-seventeenth-century
Modes,” authored by Sandra L. Rosenbaum, mantua over a ten-year period. The costume
begins part 3. She neatly summarizes the and textile department of LACMA purchased
fashionable information in the images for the stunning blue silk gown in 1988, but it
both contemporary viewers and modern had been heavily altered in the 1840s.
historians. This is followed by chapter 10, A note about the illustrations: there
“Fashion Illustration from the Reign of are a total of 32 color plates, 29 of which
Louis XIV: A Technical Study of the Paper are from the LACMA Recueil, as noted
and Colorants Used in the LACMA Recueil above. The remaining three show one of
des Modes,” by Soko Furuhata, which details the authors wearing a recreation of a grand
the analysis and discoveries that allowed habit, the layers of a grand habit, and an
precise dating of the binding of the prints. installation of LACMA’s mantua. In addi-
In chapter 11, “Performing Fashion,” Michael tion, there are 88 black-and-white images of
Reviews 157

other fashion prints of the period and a few historians and curators, designers, conser-
Recueil plates as comparative illustrations. vators, historic interpreters, as well as for
Unfortunately, no doubt to control costs those interested in fashion theory, social
(the book is quite reasonably priced) the history, visual history, French court culture,
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quality of the paper renders the black-and- or the history of popular printing in Europe.
white images too muddy to see the kind In short, this is an important addition to
of detail certainly this reader would have the literature. The book is essential reading
liked. The color plates, ganged together for anyone who has used a fashion plate to
(again to save cost) and on coated stock, understand virtually any aspect of European
fair somewhat better—but still the reader history—fashion and otherwise—or is
should also view them on LACMA’s website thinking of doing so.
to really appreciate them. One is also likely
to find many of the comparatives on the Dale Carolyn Gluckman
websites of the repositories of the originals. Independent Curator and Senior Consultant
Fashion Prints in the Age of Louis XIV: Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles, Bangkok,
Interpreting the Art of Elegance is a “must- Thailand
read” for students, professional fashion Los Angeles, CA, USA
158 Wiener Chic

Wiener Chic: A Locational


History of Vienna Fashion
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Susan Ingram and Markus Reisenleitner


Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2013

Wiener Chic: A Locational History of Vienna Vienna. In it, American director Richard
Fashion is a multifaceted study that analyzes Linklater gives us a sample of ways in which
the way Vienna’s urban imagery has taken romantic Vienna is depicted in film. The
shape through discussions of indicative romanticism that the monarchy integrated
cultural phenomena. In part 1, the authors into the city gave way to an emerging class
break down the urban image into four cat- of performing artists who along with mass
egories with chapters devoted to “Baroque media brought new innovations to Vienna
Chic,” “Ringstrasse Chic,” “Prolo Chic,” and and the beginning of modern fashion.
“Aüslander Chic.” Vienna’s historic identity “Ringstrasse Chic” examines the change
and global image evolved from a long his- of the city’s social landscape from the pomp
tory of imperialism losing out to moder- and circumstance of the aristocracy through
nity, as demonstrated by the backstory of the growth of the emerging bourgeoisie. The
Baroque and Ringstrasse chics. Prolo Chic Viennese had a fanaticism for the art of the
and Aüslander Chic both played a part in and theater and its artists became models of
were the results of this change. Part 2 of the social mobility in imperial Vienna. The new
book examines the impact fashion has had culture of celebrity brought on by the status
on the city in creating and maintaining a of actors caused Vienna’s leaders to realize
fashion system that includes Viennese fash- they had to compete for the recognition that
ion designers and institutions that display they had taken for granted. The writers use
fashion and have fashion programming. Here the 1999 film Eyes Wide Shut to demonstrate
the reader is introduced to “Museum Chic” how director Stanley Kubrick sees through
and “Designer Chic.” Authors Susan Ingram Vienna’s turn-of-the-century, high-culture,
and Markus Reisenleitner use films from the celebrity-powered spectacle and shows what
1990s to illustrate the ethos, architecture, its consequences were. The film also sheds
and history of Vienna fashion. As used by light on the forms that continue to emulate
the authors in the book, “fashion” does not that superficial imagery
simply refer to dress or clothing, but is used The third chapter, “Prolo Chic,” discusses
as a metonym for “modernity.” the individuals who would rise up and
The chapter on “Baroque Chic” discusses embrace the local struggle for the Viennese
how Vienna’s global imagery is shaped by working class. This is the only chapter
the aristocratic grandeur that is part of its in part 1 where fashion or style in body
history. “The Hapsburgs legacy permeated adornment is mentioned. Prolo Chic was
Viennese society through pomp and theat- generated by a fictional character created
ricality of their absolute monarchy,” which by playwright and novelist Gunter Brödl
gave rise to the grandeur of its architecture and musician Willi Resetarits. Resetarits,
(31). The 1995 film Before Sunrise depicts a member of the socio political band the
the artistry and focus of old baroque in Smetterlinge, played a socio-political style of
Reviews 159

music called “Favorit’n’Blues”—rock and roll sensitivity to the shifting challenges that
hits translated into the dialect of Favoriten, a people with migratory backgrounds face. The
working-class neighborhood. In 1983, Brödl first generation experienced exclusion and
created Ostbahn Kurti (who was portrayed isolation; the next would not be victimized.
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by Resetartis) and his band, Chefpartie. With They grew up in Vienna and realized their
“Resetarits in his Wayfarers, well-patinated contribution as a part of the urban city and
leather jacket, and slicked back hair acting “they were able to establish themselves in it”
nonchalantly cool, the band created their (88).
own scene” (69). In part 2, the chapter called “Museum
An updated Miami Vice-like version of Chic” examines three museums that
this style appears in the 1997 Ostbahn Kurti imprint fashion on the city’s image: the
film, Blutrausch or A Vienna Murder Mystery. Wein Museum, the Austrian Museum
The film depicted Ostbahn Kurti as a of Applied Arts Vienna (MAK), and the
working-class Viennese detective and would Museumquartiers (MQ). The writers show
soon give way to a television police series how these institutions “have a history of
SOKO/Donau. The style of ratty leather displaying fashion and include fashion
jackets, longish retro-styled hair, stubble, and related activities in their programming”
aviator sunglasses is an updated version of (111). Vienna had one of the largest textile
Ostbahn Kurti adopted by the characters in industries in the nineteenth century. The
SOKO/Donau. The series depicts Vienna as history and the missions of these museums
a city that “has successfully dispensed with illustrate how the cultural infrastructure in
the nostalgic longing for a single simple past Vienna supports fashion and textile, and
while showing the resilience of a proletarian how these museums have refocused and
ethos with a history of being able to deal embraced modernity not in an international
with the fallout of capitalism” (78). mode but a local one.
“Aüslander Chic” is a nod to the history “Designer Chic” is dedicated to Viennese
and acclimation of Vienna’s migrant fashion designers and their standard of
population and its contribution to the simplicity, timelessness, and good quality.
image of this city. After World War II, The Viennese fashion designers think about
Viennese immigration increased due to the future and sustainability, refusing to
displaced persons. When the Iron Curtain give in to corporations and mass production
was lifted, the toppling of the Ceausescu that contribute to the waste of fast fashion.
regime in Romania and the Balkan wars Helmut Lang is Vienna’s greatest internation-
in the 1990s saw an even bigger surge of ally known fashion designer turned artist.
immigrants, unfairly called refugees. Tereza His “minimalist” fashions were a breath of
Barta, a Romanian, made a film about the fresh air to the over-opulence of the 1980s
deplorable conditions of Traiskirchen refugee fashion design. Lang gave into the pressure
camp located south of Vienna. The 1990s of corporatization and sold his label to Prada
documentary Mit Ihren Augen (Through Their/ in 2004, but he continued to show his dis-
Your Eyes) was made “to explain to Austrian satisfaction with corporate fashion through
viewers how Austria appeared to someone art. He now resides in Long Island, and his
in her position and how dehumanizing art exhibits utilize wood, screen-like reflec-
it was to be forced into the category of tive substances, and 6,000 of his garments
refugee” (85). I Love Vienna (1991), a shredded and repurposed to make a sculp-
film by Hoachang Allahyari, depicts with ture called “Make It Hard.” The authors state
160 Wiener Chic

that internationally known designers Anna the structures, both physical and social,
Aichinger, Christiane Gruber, and Maria that make up Vienna’s local and historical
Steiner contribute to the idea of elegant, image. These topics are examined at length
understated Viennese style in the spirit of as an explanation of why fashion in Vienna
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Lang’s minimalism. These designers also deserves to be recognized, compete globally,


“renounce a global fashion system that has and be examined. Anyone who is interested
increasingly become dominated by a handful in Viennese culture and design will benefit
of corporate players. …The new millennium from the history of the city that the book
of fashion designers embrace local arts and introduces. The book adds to a growing
crafts traditions, the collective ethos of the number of books that discuss fashion sys-
proletariat outskirts—no longer unruly but tems in other cities besides, Paris, London,
definitely very specific in both its aesthetics New York. It is a look at another city that
and its aspirations” (171). has fashion system and internationally
In their conclusion, the authors remark known fashion designers who embrace parts
that “what became apparent in our investi- of the ethoses of the chics as explained by
gations is that Vienna’s urban imaginary is the authors.
so intimately linked to its historical legacy
that its fashion system’s inherently modern, K.J. Gilmer
change-oriented dynamic is constantly forced Costume Design Lecturer, University of
to define itself in relation to its past” (175). Pittsburgh
The book is not addressed solely to fash- Pittsburgh, PA, USA
ion as related to clothing; it also discusses

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