AESTHETIC MARKETING - DIAN PRIANKA 404486076

Introduction
The Dr. Martens Air Cushion sole was developed in post-war Munich for orthopaedic shoes by
Dr Klaus Maertens. The soles were patented and quickly became the top sellers in the comfort shoe
market in Germany. In 1959, Dr Maertens and his partner, Dr Herbert Funck, set out to find a company to
produce their soles in order to export them throughout Europe.
R. Griggs & Company Limited, based in Northamptonshire, was already a manufacturer of army
and work-wear boots with a comfort theme. It began to make footwear with the Dr. Martens sole, which it
branded AirWair. The Group’s success in selling the shoes led the partners to licence R. Griggs to make
the soles for the rest of the world.
In the late 1960s no teenager with attitude was properly dressed without a pair of eight eyelet
‘Doc Martens Cherry Reds’. The boots, however, were also being bought in their thousands by working
people because of their sheer practicality. Today Dr. Martens has become a true icon of youth culture
throughout the world.

The Vogue Archive

By the Vogue Archive database, there were found 80 data that related to Dr. Martens with the
keyword of “Dr. Martens” and “Doc Martens”. Those 80 data were the data that already been adjusted to
the exact date of the Dr. Martens development, in which it was started on 1947 as the shoes for the
workers. The data matching the keywords are low in between 1947 to 1970 because it has not yet to be
the shoes for the fashion and lifestyle, hence, it was sold for the workers.

Figure 1. The Vogue Archive on Dr. Martens (2017)

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 The highest number of data were found in the period of 1990 - 1999 with 32 records. There are 24
articles, 3 indexes, 3 Letters to the Editor, 1 advertisement, 1 photoshoot recorded related to Dr. Martens
keywords. One article were found talked a lot about boots and also with Dr. Marten boots discussed upon.
In this article, fashion were moving into an era of ultra feminine look and being tough, strong, and hard.
Various brands also put together with Dr. Martens, such as Manolo Blahnik and Chanel. In this issue, Dr.
Martens boots were worn by Keanu Reeves in a strangely upside down pose as it were going to portray
how rebellious Dr. Martens user was.

Figure 2. Dr. Martens on Vogue, Fashion: Getting on Boots (1993)

From this era, another data facts can be further analyzed, which is about the items that were come
out together with the keywords of Dr. Martens. By this, it is possible that Dr. Martens is strongly related
or paired with that product materials, such as Cotton, Rayon, Viscose, Cashmere, and Nylon. In this
period also very often found the relation of Dr. Martens with flannel shirts, leather jackets, and graphic T-
Shirt. Related to that period was the period of the Grunge and Rock music, where Nirvana was influenced
many aspects not only music but also lifestyle, new subcultures, and fashion. Some words are also
popped to create an image of Dr. Martens, such as “clunky”, “chunky”, and also “stomper”. Very often,
these words are repeated in many issues to give some ideas about Dr. Martens product. (Kazanjian, 1993)

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Image and Wording Screening
The further breakdown of Dr. Martens brand DNA, 8 main factors were derived from both Vogue
Archive and Dr. Martens official website. As a cultural fashion item, Dr. Martens also were taken as a
symbol of personal choice, fashion item, cultural group, background story, music, art, material
character and imagery. Most of the items described below could be related with each other. For
example, rebels are usually portrayed with anti fashion style, with certain rock or grunge music taste,
flannel shirt with the skinhead subculture and rock music, goths with their tough style and so on.
(Poneman, 1992)

Figure 3. Dr. Martens Key Factors

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Visual Analysis
Functional Quality
1. Fit
As it was made from leather, the best words to describe Dr. Martens is natural fit. The leather
characteristics was strong on the first use, but will be developed along with the usage of the shoes. Worn
out Dr. Martens boots also bring more characteristics and usage story.
2. Mobility
With the design foundation as a working boots, Dr. Martens overall design generated a sturdy
footwear. The famously patented Bouncing Sole and the yellow stitches all over the shoes added more
robust characteristics to the shoes.
3. Comfort
There are 8 factors that had to be determined to explain further about the comfort functional
quality. Each of the factors are the opposite of each other with the scale of 0-3. As boots as their main
product, it is obvious that the boots is hard, not very much airy and a little bit frigid. From the leather
material, the warm characteristic is popped out and they could absorb more shocks. The cushion was
famously hard, even though it was popularized with their AirWair Bouncing Sole trademark. It is neutral
on comfortness, as the leather could be getting more and more comfort along with the usage. Lastly, the
mixed of all the materials developed a course rough characteristic to the shoes.

SOFT HARD

AIRY NON BREATHABLE

COZY FRIGID

WARM COOL

ABSORBENT NON ABSORBENT

LIGHTWEIGHT HEAVYWEIGHT

COMFORTABLE UNCOMFORTABLE

COARSE ROUGH SMOOTH

3 2 1 0 1 2 3

Figure 4. Comfort Functional Quality

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4. Wearability
The mixture of the sole material and the leather, developed a more durable shoes. The usage time is
longer than most shoes. The value added also grows along the usage time.

Formal Quality
1. Line
The lines could be judged as a little bit simple and definite lines, as not too much pattern were
used in building the boots. Unclean score higher because of the characteristics of the distinctive yellow
welt stitch. It is also hard at the same time, by the look of the sole pattern.

SIMPLE COMPLEX

DEFINITE INDETERMINATE

CLEAN UNCLEAN

DEFINED UNDEFINED

HARD SOFT

HORIZON VERTICAL
TAL

CONTINO BROKEN
US

SINGLE MULTIPLE

STRAIGH CURVILINEAR
T

THIN THICK

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 5. Formal Quality Line

It is also a combination of horizontal and vertical lines, not only seen on the main shoe pattern,
but also on the sole. The lines are consistenly continous, with multiple repetitions. On the top part the
lines are curvelinear, but on the sole it is all straight. The lines are also thick in various sizes.

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 Figure 6. Dr. Marten AirWair Sole (2017)

2. Form, Shape
Regarding to the sole form, it is more to 3 dimensional shape. Nature characteristics came from
the changes on the worn out shoes time over time. As a strong and hard shoes, it is more constructed, but
not too clean cutted as they developed many patterns on top of its leather skin. The leather also tailored to
perfect sizes, and each of the patterns elaborated in sync. It is more rounded and flexible at the same time.

FLAT 3 DIMENSIONAL

NATURE ARTIFICIAL

CONSTRUCTED UNCONSTRUCTED

CLEAN CUT INDETERMINATE

TAILORED DRAPED

ELABORATE SIMPLE

ANGULAR ROUNDED

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 7. Form & Shape Qualities

3. Color
Referring to the original colors, it is deep and pale. It is also not transparent as it was made from
leather. But to keep up with the fashion trend demand, some of the new designs are brighter than the
original ones. The users also has the freedom to express their character in the leather as they could draw

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on or paint on the boots up to them. That is why the shoes can be regarded as multi color, mixed and
blend, but not too shiny like glass.

DEEP LIGHT

PALE BRIGHT

SHEER OPAQUE

COOL WARM

MONOCHROMATI MULTI-
C COLOR

SHINY DULL

PURE MIXED

CONTRAST BLEND

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 8. Color Quality

4. Texture
Based on the material characteristic, such as leather and the rubber sole, it could be determined as
thick, a little bit textured, rough and stiff. Sturdy characteristic also once again found in texture. It is also
a little bit malleable and dull at the same time.

THIN THICK

FLAT TEXTURED

SMOOTH ROUGH

STIFF SOFT

SHEER OPAQUE

DELICATE STURDY

MALLEABL FIRM
E

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 SLIPPERY DULL

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 9. Texture Quality

5. Pattern
Pattern-wise, it is depends on the part of the boots and the type of the boots. Overall, the pattern
could be regarded as neutral on simplicity, blending, and orders. This is because of the mix of the patterns
all over the boots it self. On the sole for example, it is not necessarily basic patterns, but mixed of vertical
and horizontal patterns to create the strong grip as boots.

SIMPLE COMPLEX

BLENDING DIFFERENTIATED

OVERALL LOCALIZED

LARGE- SMALL-SCALE
SCALE

PARALLEL NON-PARALLEL

ORDERED RANDOM

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 10. Pattern Quality

It is also not localized on some point, let alone built in small scale. On some parts it is parallel to
each other but not in very orderly way.

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6. Balance - Proportion
The scores for all the factors below are identical to each other, as for the pattern could be
regarded as a harmonious pattern with a balance proportion to each repetition. For example the sole
pattern. It is following the shape of the foot and balanced with the thickness on every sole gaps. The idea
behind the pattern was to create a sturdy grip but with a comfort as well. With the organized gap pattern,
it could create a bounce on every step without slip.

SYMMETRIC ASYMMETRIC

ORGANIZED UNORGANIZED

BALANCED UNBALANCED

PROPORTIONA DISPROPORTIONAT
TE E

HARMONIOUS INHARMONIOUS

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 11. Balance-Proportion Quality

7. Rhythm
Visually, the rhythm of the design is dynamic as it goes with the time flow. As the shoes getting
worn out, it would create a new look. The rhythm also firm, as the material is thick and strong which
could create a regular and rhythmic kind of characteristic. As it is heavy and thick, it could be regarded as
slow. Dr Martens also produced many boots styles, 8 holes, 12 holes, even 18 holes boots in a random
repeat style.

DYNAMIC STATIC

FIRM FLOWING

REGULAR IRREGULAR

RHYTHMIC ARRHYTHMIC

THIN THICK

SLOW FAST

ORDERED RANDOM

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 REPEAT REPEAT

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 12. Rhythm Quality

Expressive Quality
Dr Martens has a lot of expressive qualities. By the store interior design, it could easily arouse
many emotions. The typical music on the stores such as rock, grunge or alternative music created the
special Dr. Martens feeling on every person that coming inside the store. Dr. Martens also allows their
customers to create their own style of Dr. Martens boots and showcased them on their social media. Thus,
this create a creative expression to every artists that wear their own design of Dr. Martens. At last, the
reflected emotion that is perfect for Dr. Martens is the provocative expression, in which is truly they
brand DNA, as the boots for the rebellious self-expressive people.

Figure 13. Customized Dr. Martens Boots

Symbolic Quality
1. Aesthetic Image
Aesthetically, three qualities are suitable for Dr. Martens boots, as they are both classic and
casual at the same time. Romantic qualities popped up because of the individualism and creativity spirit
that Dr. Martens bring. Dr. Martens chose emotion and intuition over rationalism to create their rebellious
brand DNA.

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 Figure 14. Aesthetic Image

2. Consumption Value

There are 4 consumption values for Dr. Martens, in which is related with each other. By their
quality factor, they could create a valueable usage for their consumer. Old pair Dr. Martens tend to have
more value as the usage time bring more story for the consumer. The distinctive design of the boots also
create an iconic fashion item, that is irreplaceable with other brands.

Figure 15. Consumption Value

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3. Instrumental Value
In instrumental value, it was very clear described and shown in their brand DNA showcase, that
Dr. Martens is all about being courageously independent yet self controlled. Facts are that Dr. Martens
gave a full support to independent music artists, visual artists, and many individuals that has their own
special skill and let them grow. With #StandForSomething campaign, Dr. Martens showcased many of
creative individuals across the world.

Figure 16. Instrumental Value

4. Roles
Many characteristics were shown by the DNA of Dr. Martens, such as masculinity, youthful,
mature, boyish, single and unisex. Being unisex and boyish or masculine at the same time might sound
confusing, but in fact, even though the exterior of the overall design is more considered for men, the true
identity of Dr. Martens are still rebellious, it will not put that many concern about which gender, but more
about each individuals and how they express their own ideal. Dr. Martens’ appeal to people who have
their own individual style but share a united spirit – authentic characters who stand for something. People
who possess a proud sense of self- expression. People who are different.

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 MASCULINE FEMININ
E

YOUTHFUL OLD

CHILDLIKE MATURE

GIRLISH BOYISH

SINGLE MARRIED

ONE SEX UNISEX

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 17. Roles

5. Social Class
Back to the history of Dr. Martens itself as a working shoes, the suitable social class imagery for
this product is more to the ordinary, blue collar and working class people. Initially worn by postmen and
factory workers, Dr. Martens’ first few years of existence was very much that of a £2 work-wear boot,
selling solid quantities to Britain’s working classes. Then on 1960s, Dr. Martens were suddenly picked up
by early multi-cultural, ska-loving skinheads – who proudly championed British working class style.
Shortly after, Pete Townshend of The Who became the first high profile individual to wear them as a
symbol of his own working class pride and rebellious attitude. In so doing, both first generation skinheads
and Townshend altered the course of the brand’s history, changing this functional work-wear boot into a
subcultural essential.

ROYAL ORDINARY

WHITE COLLAR BLUE COLLAR

UPPER CLASS WORKING

CLASS

RICH POOR

EDUCATED UNEDUCATED

3 2 1 0 1 2 3
Figure 18. Social Class

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6. Self Concept: Youthful and Individualistic
On a stylistic level, Dr. Martens’ simple silhouettes allows their wearers to adopt the boots and
shoes as part of their own individual and very distinctive style; on a practical level, their famous
durability and comfort make them ideal for gigs and street fashion and then finally on an emotional level,
they are a badge of attitude and empowerment.

Competitors
The competitors were categorized in two ways: (1) Boots Category, and (2), Rebellious Style
Shoes. In boots category, the brands are the mixed between the brands that focused and specialized on
functional boots rather than fashionable boots like Dr. Martens. The perfect example for the functional
boots are the Caterpillar boots.

Figure 19. Shoes Category Competitors

In the Rebellious Style Shoes, many kinds of shoes brands are mixed and was chosen because of
the characteristics of the customers, in which are the people who are individualistic, self-expressive and
different and belong to certain subculture.

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Figure 20. Cultural Group Category Competitors

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Kazanjian, D. (1993). Fashion: Getting the Boot. Vogue; New York, 183(8), 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, 235,

310.

The History of Dr. Martens | Official Dr. Martens Store. (n.d.). Retrieved April 27, 2017, from

http://www.drmartens.com/us/history

Poneman, J. (1992). Features: Grunge & Glory. Vogue; New York, 182(12), 254, 255, 256, 257, 258, 259,

260, 261, 262, 263, 313.

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