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Volume 6, Issue 2, Fall2009

Backward Linkages in Readymade Garment Industry of Bangladesh: Appraisal and Policy


Implications

Md. Rakib Ibne Habib, MBA, PhD


Newport University & London Metropolitan University
MBA, PGD in Personnel Management,
PGC in Computer Science & PhD
rakibhabib@yahoo.co.uk

ABSTRACT

In global apparel markets, international buyers place an order with competitive pricing along
with shortest possible lead time. For Bangladesh, lead time is fast emerging as a serious
bottleneck. Backward linkages are playing major part of a garment industry to reduce lead time
and offer competitive price in the international market. It is inevitable that one of the major
issues of success in readymade garment (RMG) industry in Bangladesh must depend on
backward linkage conditions, support, and strategy formulation. This paper briefly discusses the
present condition of backward integration, needs for further development within respect to Post
Multi-fiber Arrangement (MFA) situation in the RMG industry in Bangladesh. This paper will
focus on policy implication on backward Linkage sub-sectors in respect of free trade apparel
market.

Keywords: Readymade garment industry, Bangladesh garment industry, policy formulation,


backward integration.

Introduction overall impact of the readymade garment


exports is certainly one of the most
The performance of the readymade garment significant social and economic
(RMG) sector has been one of the most developments in contemporary Bangladesh.
notable success stories of the Bangladesh Because the economy of Bangladesh largely
economy over the last two decades. Nearly depends on the RMG sector, in short, this
two million women workers were directly sector is still considered as the lifeline of the
and more than ten million habitants were Bangladesh's economy and plays an
indirectly associated with this industry. Over indispensable role for the social stability of
the past twenty years, the number of the country.
manufacturing industries grew from 180 to
over 3600. On the average this sector alone Backward linkage for Bangladesh RMG
fetches over 75 % of the total export
earnings of the country (BGMEA, March Backward linkage means the use by one
2007). Today, the RMG export sector firm or industry of produced inputs from
consists of multibillion dollar manufacturing another firm or industry (Alan V Deardorff,
and export industries in the country. The 2001). That means the finished garment

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relies on three steps; first level for These three steps are integrated into each
converting fibers/cotton to yarns, second other as shown in Table 1. It shows that
step for converting yarns to grey fabrics and these three steps are essential for backward
the final step for converting gray fabrics to linkage integration (BGMEA, January
dyed, printed of other finished fabrics. 2005).

Table 1
Steps from fibers/cotton to finished fabrics

Fibers/ Yarns Grey fabrics Finished


Fabrics
Cotton
Spinning Weaving or Knitting Dyeing, Printing, Finishing

Out of three steps, Bangladesh is only Bangladesh RMG Sector – Need for
capable of knitting, finishing in knitwear Improved Backward Linkages in Post
sectors but far behind in producing yarn, MFA
fabrics which is a major factor for woven
section. Only success came to accessories After abolition of quota in 2005, RMG
where 80% demand of our country was sector in Bangladesh is facing stiff
fulfilled. competition in global apparel export market.
Moreover, increased competitions have been
The success of the garment industry very felt from neighboring countries including
much depends on how effectively RMG India, Pakistan, China and Thailand from
sector linkages may operate backward and where Bangladesh imports fabrics to meet
forward. If the manufacturer has effective the fabric demands of its RMG sector. These
control over the supply of raw materials, countries have stronger backward linkage
components and ancillary services needed to support as they are able to utilize their
produce final product, then the production locally produced yarns and fabric internally,
flow is likely to be interrupted. If the resulting in higher prices in the export
company develops an effective marketing market, putting pressure on the Bangladesh
service strategies that provide right signal, garment sectors. This observation is
and if marketing and distributing systems as supported by the view of Ahmed Khadker
a whole are effective for having the products Habib cited by Hafiz G A Siddiqi,
reach the target markets, then the sales (November 11, 1999):
revenue for the company is likely to be
maximized. It means that to minimize cost “Particularly India, Pakistan, China and
of production and maximize sales revenues Thailand which are at a relatively higher
both backward and forward linkages need to stage of development and are richer
be integrated. Here the issue of developing compared to Bangladesh will in the near
backward linkages is discussed with future move to the production of high-
reference to the desirability of having technology higher-value items where return
control over the supply of inputs of RMG on investment will be much higher than that
industry, mainly, fabric, yarn and processing in RGM.”.
status (Siddique, 2004).
Bangladesh RMG sector, therefore, needs to
develop the backward linkage sub-sectors
further in order to reduce dependency on
imported raw materials and intermediate
goods if she is to meet the export target in

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the global market. Again, competitive composite, spinning, weaving, finishing,
pricing is vital with this backward linkage dying and processing, all steps beginning
support. Otherwise, it is not possible to with raw materials and ending with finished
survive in the world apparel market in the products must constitute backward linkages
post MFA era. sub-sectors. The RMG sector then will be
faced with more challenges in meeting these
Faced with the quota-free global apparel goals. Moreover, Bangladesh RMG sector
trade, Bangladesh RMG sector must not has great advantages in terms of the lower in
only be competitive in product price but also producing the fabric. The labor cost in
in the lead time. Development and growth of Bangladesh, as shown in Table 2, is one of
backward linkage industries will reduce the lowest. The table compares average
price ranges and lead-time in the long run. hourly wages (including fringe benefits) in
As the backward integration is needed for the RMG industry (Sattar, 2004).

Table 2. Average Hourly Wages (including Fringe Benefits) in RMG Industry

COUNTRY HOURLY WAGE(US$)


SINGAPORE 3.56
MEXICO 2.40
MALAYSIA 1.20
THAILAND 1.04
PHILLIPINES 0.78
INDIA 0.56
PAKISTAN 0.49
INDONESIA 0.43
VIETNAM 0.40
SRILANKA 0.39
CHINA 0.40
BANGLADESH 0.23

With cheap labor advantage, Bangladesh cent in 1993-94 to 30% in 1998-99 (CPD,
garment industry is still holding competitive October 2002). Another researcher
position in the global apparel market. (Khadker, January 2002) claimed that of
Overall percentage of RMG sector growth Garment sector value added is only 25% and
has been steady although the sector has been is much lower compare to other exported
affected by the USA market. This industry items which were contributed 60% to 70%
contributed 78% share of total trade of in some cases. Two-third of garment’s
goods in Bangladesh, compared to the other export earnings is for the labor fabric
South Asian countries like India 14%, purposes. To add more value it is imperative
Pakistan 23%, Sri Lanka 50% and Nepal necessary to build and develop more
40% (Garment Association of Nepal, 2001). backward linkages industries from yarn to
finishing fabric process in Bangladesh.
In general, backward integration adds value
and at the same time increases employment. The Condition of Backward Linkage:
Contribution of RMG sector in Bangladesh
manufacturing can be measured by the Although the RMG industry in Bangladesh
increase in value-added (MVA) from 6.5 per flourishes in the 80’s and 90’s, there has

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been little development in the backward situation. This implies that Bangladesh has
linkage sector (Habib, 2002). RMG to depend on imported cotton which
manufacturers usually import fabric from involving large amount of foreign exchange.
different countries as locally produced raw Bangladesh is not even in a position to move
materials cannot compete with imported towards synthetic fiber production as it is
materials in terms of price or in terms of capital intensive.
quality.
Spinning Mills
At present, only 25%-30% value addition
takes place to the RMG products as It is difficult to accurately determine the
manufacturer import bulk of the raw percentage of demand for yarn met locally
materials. On the contrary, almost 70% because of the amount of yarn production
value addition takes place to the jute varies with the efficiency of the spindles.
products exported to different countries. The Bangladesh Textile Mills Corporation
garment industry should need to increase at (BTMC) and Bangladesh Textile Mills
least 50% value addition through Association (BTMA) mills have spindles
enhancement of backward integration in the with different efficiency levels and there is
RMG market. no numeric data available on the efficiency
levels of the spindles according to A M.
Backward linkages sub-sector for RMG Chowdhury (2002). But According BTMA,
industry includes cotton production, in year 2000 statistics, there are 148
spinning (cotton and synthetic yarn), spinning units (private 107 and public 41
weaving and knitting, dyeing and painting, units), installed capacity 3.6 million, with
and accessories and all of the above sub- annual production 443 million kg, (BTMEA,
sectors reflect the present condition of the 2001). Number of spinning mills increased
backward integration in the RMG in to fulfill the gap of shortfall in local and
Bangladesh. domestic market.

Cotton As per BGMEA, 2005, number of unit of


spinning mills increased to 202 (private
Cotton is the main raw material for yarn sector 176, public sector 26), Installed
production while production of cotton in capacity: 4,334,796 Spindles with annual
Bangladesh has very limited profit margin. production capacity of 50 million kgs of
Hence, Bangladeshi spinning mills depends yarn. According to a report submitted by the
on imported cotton from international Sub-Committee of the Parliamentary
markets. India, Pakistan, Turkey, China, Standing Committee on Textile (May 1999)
Uzbekistan, USA are the main production to meet the demand (2000) domestically,
sources where Bangladesh largely dependent Bangladesh will have to established 148
on. Bangladesh Cotton Development Board Spinning Mills with 25,000 spindles each
(BCDB) undertakes cotton promotions (Hafiz G.A ) and again to attain self
activities but achievement is not satisfactory. sufficiency in yarn to fulfill the domestic
BCDB is striving for higher production of and export needs in year 2005, Bangladesh
cotton with a production range of 1,03,620 will need to established additional 98
bales in four cultivating zones in south- spinning mills. So it shows that capacity of
western part of the country. Cotton spinning mills in Bangladesh is not capable
production requires vast land areas whereas to cover demand of yarn that needed to
in Bangladesh the land is in scarcity at only produce fabric for RMG sector. The total
144,000 square kilometers. Farmers prefer demand for yarn by RMG producers and
agriculture products that are more profitable producers operating in the local market are
than cotton. So in the context of cotton more than the existing production capacity
production, Bangladesh is in a dreadful and there is requirement for an enormous

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increase in capacity if Bangladesh wants to and finishing units in Bangladesh are
ensure adequate supply of yarn locally. currently able to process all of the locally
produced grey. According to Bangladesh
Handloom products may be suitable for the Textile Mills Association (BTMA, 2001).
domestic market, but RMG producers Bangladesh knitting, knit dyeing and
cannot consider handloom as competitive finishing sub-sector had 282 firms (99
because of consistent and large quantity merchandized dyeing and finishing, 183
demanded by quality fabric markets. On the semi-merchandized dyeing and finishing)
other hand, power looms were originally with annual fabric production capacity
targeted to serve the domestic market but to (fabric) of 680 million meters. On the other
upgrade them for export quality is very hand, the knitting sector had a total of 155
difficult and costly. firms (23 domestically supported existing
units and 132 export oriented units).
Weaving and Knitting Mills Existing knitting, knit dyeing and finishing
sub-sectors cover the local demand and the
The next stage is weaving and knitting major portion of the export RMG sector in
where yarn are converted to fabrics. Fabric Bangladesh.
is main raw material for making garment
and accounts for 75 percent of the garment Due to the increased demand in RMG sector
cost. Both hand looms and power looms are and to attain self-sufficiency in fabric supply,
suitable for the domestic market, but a large Bangladesh established 481 additional units
demand of quality fabrics cannot be met by of dyeing, printing and finishing units with
hand loom production. But in case of power 10 million meter fabric production capacity
looms, they may increase the production for each unit (Siddiqi, 2000). Dyeing,
capacity to satisfy part of the RMG sector printing and finishing factors had depended
demand with a large investment. mostly on imported fabrics as Bangladesh’s
weaving sector could not fill the export
In the long run, Bangladesh weaving mills demand of the RMG. This sector
need a high volume of yarn production to dramatically improved over the last five
fulfill the demand for domestic and export years due to the relatively low level of
markets. In year 2000, fabric demand was investment required. However, only a few
830 million meters, and soon after in year firms could carry out proper dyeing
2005 the demand almost doubled. In about 5 operations due to deficiencies in dyeing
years of time, the demand would increase to know-how. Again, as the current dyeing
1600 million meters. To fill these huge facilities are mostly dependent on imported
demands and the fabric shortfall, the fabrics, their expansion does not depend on
weaving industry needs to increase the other sectors that impede the growth of
production capacity by developing number backward linkage sub-sectors.
of new weaving industries. Both new and
reconditioned machines must be added in To develop dyeing, printing and finishing
this sector. The associated large involvement sub-sectors, it is imperative to build up
required is almost $ 3.9 billon, $ 2.7 billion modern units with appropriate technology,
for new machines and $ 1.2 billion for set up bonded warehouses that can meet the
reconditioned looms (CPD in the 12th fabric demand until the local grey
EXPO). production can meet the quality and
quantity, stocks of dyes and chemicals that
Dyeing, Printing and Finishing can meet the demand of dyeing, printing,
finishing sub-sectors. This sub-sector can
This is the final stage where the fabric either contribute significantly to reduce lead time
can be used for domestic market or RMG and price. It is suggested that dyeing,
sector for export purposes. Dyeing, printing printing and finishing sub-sectors be in

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better position than that for other backward Cotton
integration sub-sectors when compared with
spinning and weaving sectors. This Cotton considered the first stage of
statement is supported by Both Drs. Martelli backward linkage sub-sector which is the
and Gherzi who identified the finishing main source for producing yarn.
phase as area for improved competitiveness Bangladeshi garment industry is fully
in Bangladesh and recommended investment dependent on imported cotton to fulfill the
(BGMEA 2004). huge shortfall of yarn souring. Though
Bangladesh needs to support cotton
Accessories production but due to scarce land in
Bangladesh, to build cotton industry in
Only for accessories, Bangladeshi garment Bangladesh may not be recommended. This
industry is in quite good position. About view is supported by Ahmed Khander
80% of those known as accessories (zippers, Habib, who does not recommend it due to
buttons, threads, stiffeners, inter-linings, shortage of land as well as the high cost
packaging materials, etc.) are available involved. This situation is similar to
locally and meet the requirements of the Anatolia Project of Turkey. (Habib, 2002).
international buyers. A considerable amount But in the another study in Development in
of backward linkage has already been Democracy (DID, 1991) argues that not
established in this export support sector and having cotton is actually not a disadvantage
it maintains its excellent position. due to increased import of high quality
cotton from neighboring countries (mainly
Policy Implications and Conclusions India and Pakistan) where low quality of
cotton are produced.
This study briefly discussed the present
condition of backward integration and its But the question is raised that Bangladesh
prospect as well as the negative impact on garment is not making high quality of
Bangladeshi garment industry in future. garment nor it ranked as fashion/fancy
garment market in the international apparel
Analyzing the present condition, status and market. Bangladesh garment market is still
facts and findings of the above in the RMG categorized as a source of low to medium
sector, there are number of target actions in quality garment in the international market.
several areas can be considered along with So it may be necessary to sticks with low to
their policy implications that directly medium range cottons. With the lower-price
influence the backward integration. From cotton markets, Bangladeshi is
cotton to finished products, all steps disadvantageous compared to Indian textile
involved such as spinning, weaving, dyeing mills who buy cotton from Indian growers
printing, finishing and accessories form an 25% to 30% cheaper than Bangladesh
integral part of backward linkage procedure. import the same cotton from India or
The alternative support of central bonded international market. As a matter of Policy,
warehouses is essential unless backward by allowing this policy, Indian government
linkage satisfies itself in each sector by its provides in effect a subsidy to the Indian
components, especially in spinning and mill owners (Siddique, 2004). Similar
weaving sectors. The study tries to come up subsidy is given in Pakistan and as a result
with possible suggestions for each sector, their price is 20% lower than Bangladesh
again using different researcher’s viewpoints. who buys the same cotton from Pakistan
paying more. This creates a disadvantage for
Bangladesh and it could possibly be
overcome by reducing the conversation
costs (labor, energy, depreciation, interest
and other costs) and by improving the

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management efficiency. The government the private and foreign investors to develop
needs to take some initiatives such as the backward integration.
imposing no tariffs or quota on cotton
import so that importers can get cotton Weaving
cheaper and keep the cotton price down in
the local market. The analysis in the paper spells out number
of points. It is noted that weaving sector is
Spinning Sector the largest component of the backward
integration, where the import accounts
Hand loom is the largest support in yarn in almost 75% of the total export garment
the Bangladeshi clothing industry. This value. Bangladesh is only 20% self-
sector contributes TK 10 billion to national sufficient in weaving input supply.
economy and is capable of fulfilling three- Bangladesh weaving mills constantly fall
fourth of the local requirement in the apparel short of production owing to chain link
sector. Bangladesh is only 10-20% self- shortage of yarn production in spinning sub-
sufficient in spinning in input supply or sector. As a result, the country has to import
degree of backward integration. In the 3.15 billion meters of grey fabrics per year.
knitting and woven sectors, there are huge Shortfall 200 weaving mills amounts to 10
shortfalls in the RMG sector mainly in the million meters of fabric (Siddiqi, 2000) and
export oriented operation. To overcome the it could attain the self sufficiency in yarn to
gap between supply and demand of yarn in fulfill the domestic and export needs in year
RMG sector, it was necessary to establish 98 2005, which cost TK 50 each, amounting to
spinning mills to have their estimated cost to TK 100 or equivalent to USD $1.43 billion
be about Taka 73.5 billion, or equivalent to (US $1 = Taka 70 approx. in 2008). The
USD $1.05 billion (approx. US $1 = Taka knitting segment of Bangladesh is better and
70 in 2008). Before making a huge the grey fabric demand is met by the
investment to develop backward linkage domestic production. For the export market,
sub-sector in spinning mills, it is imperative around 85% the total woven fabric demand
to assess the level of competitiveness and and about 35% of the total knit fabric
viability for such project. The conversion demand are imported. Due to large demand-
costs and the total manufacturing cost must supply gap, the weaving and knitted sub-
be considered and must compare with that in sectors require expansion at a rapid rate.
China, India and Pakistan as Bangladesh Soon after the MFA phase-out, demand for
import cotton from these competing fabric has risen making it imperative to
countries. increase the investment and modernized the
machinery.
It was also suggested by the Bangladesh
Ministry of Commerce (2004) that the It is necessary to have private sector take
handloom sector should be modernized. A positive initiatives to support the weaving
comprehensive training designed for the sub-sector. It is considered that the weaving
RMG sector, Skilled and Quality and spinning sub-sectors would be more
Development Programme (SQDP) imparted attractive for large capital investment. If
training at the grass root level to apply cost-effective investments in the spinning
modern design, dyeing and weaving. The and weaving enhance the performance in the
project tenure was five years at a cost of $4 sub-sector, then Bangladesh has a possibility
million. of building a competitive export-oriented
Government should take some initiatives sector in the Post MFA era.
such as; to impose no barriers on import
mechanism on back-to-back letter of credits In addition to making the large investments,
(LCs); not to import yarns through ports; to the government has to waive import tax and
ask recipients of cash subsidy to encourage VAT from spare parts, dyes and chemicals,

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and support 5% free on board (FOB) value infrastructure fees from dyeing, printing and
to deter the currency devaluation in of finishing sub-sector in order to set up new
neighboring countries, provide loans with units with advanced technology.
7% flat interest rate on all advances and
loans, provide financial subsidy of at least 6- This dyeing, printing and fabric processing
7%, waive the peak hour electricity charges, sub-sectors are doing well in Bangladesh as
establish textile development fund of TK 50 these sectors require only small-scale
billions, build a textile park, reschedule the operations, small investments that are within
container handling charge, and build a reach of many entrepreneurs. All these mean
training centre for developing skilled labor that a stronger encouragement should be
(Habib, 2002). Other issues may be to provided for the development of these
reduce the port charges for garment exports, components of the backward integration
to increase labor productivity and reduce the (Habib, 2002). This view has also been
cost of doing business by Bangladesh supported by a IFC report which suggested
Garment Manufacturers and Exporters development of dyeing, printing and fabric
Association (BGMEA) and the government. production facilities. Bangladesh would do
Unless these bottlenecks are removed, a better if it improves the infrastructural and
simplified backward linkage industry may the transport facility and its logistics,
not be realized (Siddique, 2004). streamline the import policy by removing
the cumbersome procedures. In addition,
Dyeing, Printing and Finishing upgrading the facility at Chittagong port and
substantial upgrading of the national
The final linkages in the textile industry, electricity grid are needed for uninterrupted
namely, dyeing, printing and finishing have supply of power. In addition, improved
improved dramatically over the last five telecommunication facilities and improved
years although only a few firms can match seaport management are needed along with
colors. The efficiency of the sub-sector enhanced law and order.
however, depends mostly on the quality of
the imported grey fabrics, which might be Bangladesh garment industry faces serious
supplemented by domestically produced challenges if it wants to maintain and
grey fabrics if their quality could be improve its competitiveness position in the
enhanced. post-MFA era. The challenge should serve
as a wakeup call for the garment industry for
In some cases, facilities for which still forming a new strategic position. With large
unable to meet the standard of quality labor resources, Bangladesh needs initiatives
demanded by the export-oriented RMG of private entrepreneurs along with a
industries. To get quality fabrics, some sustained government support.
options can be considered. They include
providing incentives for producing higher To maintain the high export position for the
quality grey fabrics domestically and force Bangladesh RMG sector, it should not be
the finishing industries to trim down the supported only by the cheap labor, but also
costs gradually to compete against the by factors such as growth of backward
imported grey fabrics among others. integration. The paper finds that the success
Another strategy would be to provide in the finishing, dying, printing, accessories
bonded warehouses for fabrics until local sub-sector, rapid expansion in the knitting
grey production can meet the quality and sector alone even under slow development
quantity demands of the sub-sector. (Habib, in the spinning and weaving sectors, the
2002). Bangladesh RMG sector is still in a viable
position in the global appeal market. As it
The government should also withdraw or says “where there is a will there is a way,”
reduce duty, advance income tax (AIT), the Bangladesh RMG sector will remain in

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the same good position by taking all the of significant value if the policy implications
steps identified in this paper, and hopefully, suggested in this research help develop plans
it will enhance its export performance in the for making Bangladesh RMG industry
global market as a competitive nation. viable.
Finally, it can be said that this study will be

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Article Designation: Scholarly 11 JTATM
Volume 6, Issue 2, Fall 2009

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