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Accepted: 26 February 2018

DOI: 10.1111/jocd.12545

ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTION

An evaluation of the antiaging properties of strawberry


hydrolysate treatment enriched with L-ascorbic acid applied
with microneedle mesotherapy

Agata Markiewicz1 | Malwina Zasada1 | Anna Erkiert-Polguj PhD2 |


Marzena Wieckowska-Szakiel PhD3 | Elzbieta Budzisz PhD1

1
Department of Cosmetic Raw Materials
Chemistry, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical Summary
University of Lodz, Lodz, Poland Background: Mature skin is characterized by a loss of elasticity, hyperpigmentation,
2
Department of Cosmetology and Aesthetic
and dehydration. L-ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of collagen type I, inhibits
Dermatology, Faculty of Pharmacy, Medical
University of Lodz, Lodz, Poland melanogenesis, and helps to maintain correct skin hydration. Combining microneedle
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Department of Immunology and Infectious mesotherapy with the application of preparations rich in vitamin C results in better
Biology, Faculty of Biology and
Environmental Protection, University of therapeutic effects due to the improved absorption of active substances. The study
Lodz, Lodz, Poland evaluates the effectiveness of the application of strawberry hydrolysate enriched
Correspondence with L-ascorbic acid using microneedle mesotherapy.
Agata Markiewicz, Department of Cosmetic Materials and methods: Seventeen volunteers aged 45-70 years underwent a series
Raw Materials Chemistry, Faculty of
Pharmacy, Medical University of Lodz, Lodz, of four microneedle mesotherapy treatments with vitamin C serum, performed
Poland. every 10 days. The 20% L-ascorbic acid solution (pH = 3.5) was prepared immedi-
Email: agata_markiewicz@onet.pl
ately before application. After the treatment, the participants gave a subjective
Funding information assessment of the effectiveness. Cutometerâ was used to measure skin elasticity
The study was financed by the Medical
University in Lodz (research grants No: 502- and firmness, Corneometerâ to measure skin hydration, and Mexameterâ skin tone.
03/3-066-02/502-34-094 and 503/3-066- Results: The results of the survey showed improvements in skin hydration and elas-
02/503-31-001).
ticity. In vivo studies confirmed the effectiveness of serum and the impact of the
active substance on skin firmness and elasticity, the degree of hydration and skin
tone.
Conclusion: Microneedling with vitamin C improves skin tone, hydratation and firm-
ness, and decreases the visibility of hyperpigmentation.

KEYWORDS
antioxidant, combination therapy, microneedling, skin aging, skin penetration, vitamin C

1 | INTRODUCTION The lipid barrier of the epidermis greatly impedes the penetration
of active substances. As some of these substances undergo decom-
Skin aging is a complex, multistage process associated with changes position on the surface of the epidermis, and others decompose dur-
in the morphological and physiological properties of skin. Decreased ing transdermal penetration, only a small percentage of active
fibroblast activity, reduced synthesis of collagen and elastin, substances reaches the deeper skin layers. However, the use of suit-
increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and decreased melano- able carriers in cosmetics and effective methods of transportation
cyte activity are observed in the course of aging. In addition, the allows deeper penetration of active ingredients.2
immune system becomes weakened and oxidative stress response is Contemporary Cosmetology seeks new methods of transepider-
1
impaired. mal transport which will enable such deeper penetration of active

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;1–7. wileyonlinelibrary.com/journal/jocd © 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc. | 1


2 | MARKIEWICZ ET AL.

substances with a minimal risk of side effects. One such method is The inclusion criteria were as follows: the presence of wrinkles, the
microneedle mesotherapy: A controlled process which uses thin nee- loss of skin firmness and elasticity, skin dryness, and uneven skin
dles to mechanically puncture the skin. The process results in the color. All participants underwent a series of four microneedle
breakage of skin continuity and ensures more efficient penetration mesotherapy treatments with the application of 20% L-ascorbic
of active substances.3 acid serum.
A commonly used device for microneedle mesotherapy is derma- A 2.5 ml dose of serum, pH 3.5 was prepared for each partici-
roller, a system that uses a rotary roller equipped with thin needles pant immediately before the procedure. The serum itself was pre-
to puncture the skin. Derma-rollers operating within the epidermis pared by dissolving 0.5 g L-ascorbic acid in 2.5 ml of strawberry
do not cause bleeding, but the resulting microinjuries enable deeper hydrolysate, which was chosen for this purpose because it is rich in
and faster penetration of active substances. Even better therapeutic vitamin C. Fragaria ananassa (Strawberry) Fruit Water 99% and
effects can be obtained using a combination of microneedle Ascorbic Acid 100%, produced by Fundacja Polski Instytut Biochemii
mesotherapy with preparations rich in active substances, such as Stosowanej (Polish Institute of Applied Biochemistry Foundation),
vitamin C.4,5 Poland.
Vitamin C is necessary to maintain the proper structure and The serum was tested for microbiological purity and stability
function of the skin. L-ascorbic acid is the biologically active form after cosmetic opening, with positive results. Micropuncturing of
of vitamin C. It has strong antioxidant properties, participates in facial skin was performed using a ROHS Derma Roller System 540
the neutralization of reactive oxygen species, maintains an appro- (ROHS-JMF, Hong Kong, China) with 0.5-mm-long needles. The head
priate oxidative potential, and protects against photoaging. More- of the roller is equipped with 540 steel needles. Four therapies were
over, it accelerates the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and performed in total, one every 10 days. Skin parameters were mea-
ceramides, is responsible for proper skin hydration, and stimulates sured prior to the study (D0) and afterward(D40). All persons partici-
6
the process of angiogenesis. Furthermore, it diminishes skin dis- pating in the study signed an informed consent form agreeing to
coloration and exerts brightening effects due to the fact that it participate in measurements and complete the survey, as well as to
inhibits the activity of tyrosinase involved in the melanogenesis participate regularly in the treatment sessions and to adhere to
process. L-ascorbic acid inhibits the degradation of collagen and home skin care recommendations.
elastic fibers by hampering the synthesis of metalloproteinases In this study, in vivo techniques were used to determine skin
such as collagenase and elastase. Vitamin C participates in the moisture (Corneometerâ), color (Mexameterâ), and elasticity
â
synthesis of type I and III collagen. Studies have shown that (Cutometer ) (MPA 580, Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Ger-
L-ascorbic acid can play a significant role in the improvement of many). All measurements were conducted in a measurement room
skin repair capacity, in the limitation of skin hyperplasia, the with controlled humidity (H = 30%-50%) and temperature (T = 19-
reduction in wrinkles, color-evening, the amelioration of skin 21°C).
elasticity, and moisture level.7,8 Moisture level was measured on the left cheek and elasticity on
The hydrophilic nature of vitamin C significantly impedes its pen- the left side of the forehead, in well-defined measurement locations.
etration through the lipid layers of the epidermis, and the L-ascorbic The measurement of melanin level and erythema was performed
acid used in cosmetic products is susceptible to oxidation and using Mexameterâ within the pigmented lesions. In addition, after a
becomes easily disintegrated. The degree of vitamin C absorption series of procedures, the volunteers subjectively assessed skin condi-
depends on its concentration and the pH of the cosmetics, with rec- tion. The participants were cared for by a dermatologist throughout
ommended values being a concentration of 10%-20% and pH 3 to the study.
pH 3.5.9,10 Statistical analysis was performed using Statistica 12.0 (StatSoft
The use of appropriate treatment helps to neutralize the signs of Poland, Krakow). The Shapiro-Wilk test was used to determine the
aging. Suitable daily care and the selection of appropriate cosmetics normality of the data distribution. The paired t test and Wilcoxon’s
are required to protect the skin against the adverse effects of exter- test were used to assess changes of normally distributed variables
nal factors. against time and those unevenly distributed between related
The aim of the study was to make an objective and subjective groups.
assessment of the efficacy of L-ascorbic acid application by micro-
needle mesotherapy in the treatment of mature skin.
3 | RESULTS

3.1 | Results of questionnaire survey


2 | MATERIALS AND METHODS
The results of the questionnaire indicated an improvement of skin
The study was conducted in a group of 17 healthy women, mean texture in 82% of the subjects. The traits describing the skin condi-
age 55 years, selected in accordance with the guidelines of the tion after the first application are presented in Table 1.It was found
Helsinki Declaration. Consent for the study was given by the Medi- that 76% of respondents noticed significant differences in skin con-
cal University of Lodz Ethics Commission (RNN/281/16/KE 2017). dition after three treatments, whereas 18% saw an improvement
MARKIEWICZ ET AL. | 3

T A B L E 1 The subjective evaluation of effectiveness of 20% 4 | DISCUSSION


L-ascorbic acid concentrate applied using microneedle mesotherapy
% of This study examines the application of serum containing 20%
Effects after 4 sessions of treatment improvement L-ascorbic acid to mature skin by microneedle mesotherapy. Aging
The soothing of redness and skin irritation 65 skin is typified by wrinkles, loss of elasticity, skin dryness, pigmenta-
The restoration of natural skin color 71 tion lesions, and excessive sensitivity to external factors such as UV
The reduction in feelings of tension and skin irritation 76 radiation. The lipid barrier of the epidermis greatly hampers the pen-
The increase in skin firmness and elasticity 82 etration of active substances, which may reduce the bioavailability

The increase in hydration 82 and therapeutic effect of the active substances in externally applied
cosmetics. Vitamin C is a very popular ingredient of antiaging cos-
The reduction in skin hypersensitivity 88
to external factors metics: It exerts antioxidant properties, stimulates the synthesis of
The reduction in the visibility of wrinkles 86 collagen and elastin, and improves skin moisture.11-13 Unfortunately,
the hydrophilic nature of vitamin C limits its penetration through the
epidermal lipid layer. Strawberry hydrolysate is a rich source of vita-
after the first treatment (Figure 1). All of the participants were satis- min C (ascorbic acid), whose activity and stability are enhanced by
fied with the therapy, and the vast majority of respondents the natural presence of numerous bioflavonoid antioxidants, antho-
expressed a willingness to use it in the future. cyanins, and phenolic acids. In addition, strawberry hydrolysate con-
All the treatments were very well tolerated. The results of the tains regenerating vitamins (A, E, B9-folic acid), minerals (potassium,
survey demonstrated that the 20% L-ascorbic acid serum applied by calcium, magnesium, manganese, and iron), organic acids (citric and
microneedle mesotherapy did not cause adverse reactions in the salicylic) with lightening and smoothing effects, as well as antioxidant
form of itching, burning, redness, papules, and any other alarming and moisturizing properties. As it also contains the natural fruit acids
changes that might indicate skin sensitization. present in strawberry fruits, it has a slightly acidic pH, and has
antiseptic and antibacterial properties. It has also been found to alle-
viate skin irritation.
3.2 | The instrumental analysis of skin condition In addition, the activity of vitamin C vitally depends on
Regular treatment was found to be associated with improvement physicochemical properties of its cosmetic formulation, and its
in skin texture in nearly all participants (Tables 2-4). On the instability and susceptibility to oxidation make its use in cosmet-
cheek, mean firmness, determined by R0, increased significantly ics difficult. The pure form of vitamin C is unstable and quickly
from 0.034-0.051 and skin elasticity increased from 0.48-0.64 decomposes14; cosmetics typically incorporate the more stable
(Table 2). ester derivatives of L-ascorbic acid. Therefore, the ascorbic acid
The mean results of MPA measurements before and after treat- used for the serum administered in the present study was pre-
ments are presented in Table 4. The mentioned results indicate a pared before each procedure by the researchers. The study did
more significant improvement on the cheek than the forehead. Skin not use a control group, because the skin parameters were com-
hydration was significantly improved (Figure 2). The improvement of pared before and after therapy.
skin tone is given in Figures 3 and 4. Skin microneedling mesotherapy is a common treatment world-
Although the level of erythema was significantly decreased, most wide for skin rejuvenation treatment and the management of antiag-
subjects did not report any reduction of redness in the subjective ing therapy. Derma-roller treatment is one of the methods used to
evaluation (Figure 3). However, the vast majority of participants improve the transport of active substances through the skin and
noted skin lightening and increased visibility of hyperpigmentation, ensure high effectiveness of applied cosmetics. Many studies based
â on subjective and objective evaluation concerning the efficacy of
as confirmed in Mexameter analysis (Figure 4).
The instrumental analysis of skin condition confirmed the results minimally invasive modalities have been published.15,16 The present
of the subjective evaluation. study uses an MPA 580 (Courage + Khazaka Electronic GmbH) to

F I G U R E 1 The assessment of
microneedle mesotherapy effectiveness
4 | MARKIEWICZ ET AL.

T A B L E 2 The results of measurements with Cutometerâ T A B L E 4 Measurements of moisture level (Corneometerâ) and
skin tone (Mexameterâ)
Mean  SD before Mean  SD after
treatment treatment Significance Mean  SD before Mean  SD after
R0 - determine the firmness of the skin treatment treatment Significance

Forehead 0.045  0.023 0.064  0.021 P = .007 Cheek


Paired t-test Hydration 57.2  8.9 63.3  8.8 P < .0001
Cheek 0.034  0.017 0.051  0.021 P < .0001 Paired t test
Paired t-test Skin tone 130.3  31.9 117.0  31.5 P = .001
R2 - determinant of skin elasticity gross (melanin) Paired t test

Forehead 0.427  0.234 0.638  0.282 P = .005 Skin tone 307.8  61.7 285.5  63.1 P = .001
Paired t-test (erythema) Paired t test

Cheek 0.416  0.114 0.478  0.141 P = .002 Forehead


Paired t-test Hydration 54.9  9.3 60.9  10.6 P = .002
Paired t test
Skin tone 132.2  32.5 120.5  36.4 P = .001
objectively evaluate the effectiveness of the microneedling tech-
(melanin) Paired t test
nique with vitamin C in skin rejuvenation.
Skin tone 315.0  73.5 300.5  66.6 P = .029
An in vivo study by Ponec et al17 found that several derivatives (erythema) Paired t test
of vitamin C elevated the stratum corneum moisture content after a
4-week period of daily application. In our study, subjective and cor-
neometer evaluation confirmed that the moisture level was also ele- treatment. Other studies have found L-ascorbic acid to inhibit mela-
vated after a series of treatments performed 10-days apart. This nocytic activity, reduce melanin synthesis, and exert a depigmenta-
effect is also associated with the positive influence of vitamin C on tion effect on the skin.19 The participants in the present study
epidermal lipids and ceramide synthesis, which is crucial in maintain- reported restoration of natural skin color, which was confirmed by
ing skin barrier function and epidermal moisture. mexameter analysis of melanin index. Although not all participants
Vitamin C also affects the melanogenesis process, inhibits tyro- reported the effect of decreasing the erythema index, as measured
18 by the mexameter, not all of them had visible erythema on the
sine activity, and prevents discoloration. Sobhi et al confirmed the
brightening effect of vitamin C in the treatment of pigmentation cheeks at the beginning of the study. Espinal-Perez reports that
lesions such as melanoderma and noted a lack of side effects during while 4% hydroquinone was better at reducing discoloration in

T A B L E 3 The results of the firmness and elasticity analysis with Cutometerâ


FIRMNESS ELASTICITY

Forehead-left side Cheek- left side Forehead- left side Cheek- left side

Before After Difference Before After Difference Before After Difference Before After Difference
0.078 0.082 0.004 0.023 0.054 0.031 0.526 0.550 0.024 0.609 0.630 0.021
0.013 0.041 0.028 0.036 0.044 0.008 0.615 1.000 0.385 0.412 0.418 0.006
0.032 0.059 0.027 0.017 0.037 0.020 0.281 0.983 0.702 0.469 0.470 0.001
0.033 0.046 0.013 0.072 0.075 0.003 0.242 0.544 0.301 0.292 0.364 0.072
0.055 0.079 0.024 0.047 0.053 0.006 0.218 0.280 0.062 0.234 0.265 0.031
0.025 0.058 0.033 0.026 0.065 0.039 0.440 0.460 0.020 0.462 0.568 0.107
0.065 0.073 0.008 0.020 0.025 0.005 0.692 0.680 0.012 0.450 0.667 0.217
0.053 0.059 0.006 0.072 0.075 0.003 0.642 0.983 0.342 0.292 0.378 0.087
0.012 0.067 0.055 0.017 0.019 0.002 0.750 1.000 0.250 0.412 0.469 0.057
0.08 0.09 0.01 0.048 0.093 0.045 0.825 0.860 0.035 0.375 0.462 0.087
0.035 0.034 0.001 0.029 0.068 0.039 0.257 0.357 0.100 0.310 0.260 0.050
0.053 0.013 0.04 0.024 0.026 0.002 0.208 0.385 0.177 0.500 0.688 0.188
0.065 0.069 0.004 0.034 0.037 0.003 0.033 0.983 0.950 0.500 0.655 0.155
0.061 0.082 0.021 0.034 0.063 0.029 0.426 0.420 0.006 0.382 0.415 0.033
0.016 0.084 0.068 0.022 0.029 0.007 0.438 0.490 0.053 0.455 0.474 0.019
0.024 0.081 0.057 0.014 0.052 0.038 0.560 0.690 0.130 0.643 0.634 0.009
0.064 0.074 0.01 0.040 0.050 0.010 0.109 0.177 0.067 0.275 0.316 0.041
MARKIEWICZ ET AL. | 5

F I G U R E 2 The skin moisturization


measurements before and after four
treatments

F I G U R E 3 Changes in skin color


(erythema) before and after four
treatments

FIGURE 4 Changes in skin color (melanin) before and after four treatments
6 | MARKIEWICZ ET AL.

subjects with melanoderma, 5% ascorbic acid plays an important role Due to its very good tolerance and lack of side effects, 0.5 mm
in the treatment of hyperpigmentation due to its minimal side length microneedling with vitamin C is an option for those who do
effects. Moreover, ascorbic acid can be used both in monotherapy not agree to more aggressive treatment.
20
and in combination therapy. A limitation of the present study is its short duration: The length
As vitamin C only has an effect on fibroblast activity and colla- of the observation period may be insufficient to determine a signifi-
gen production when it reaches the dermis, the present study used cant improvement in the condition of the skin.
microneedling to facilitate this. A length of 0.5 mm was chosen for
the needles to allow improved vitamin C absorption while avoiding
any direct influence on the dermis. This microneedle mesotherapy 5 | CONCLUSIONS
has become a popular treatment in fighting the signs of aging skin. A
comparison of the effectiveness of nanoparticles, microparticles, and This study demonstrated that the administration by microneedle
21 mesotherapy of vitamin C in the form of L-ascorbic acid dissolved in
micropuncturing by Larenette et al found the best transport of
active substances to be facilitated by the microchannels formed dur- strawberry hydrolysate (concentration 20% and pH <3.5) reduced
ing micromesotherapy. Similarly, Badran et al22 found skin penetra- the visibility of wrinkles and smoothed the skin color. The results of
tion and drug penetration to be enhanced by microneedling. In vitro subjective and objective in vivo studies indicate improvements in
and in vivo studies of vitamin C toxicity and efficiency administered moisture and elasticity, as well as the lightening of skin discoloration.
in rats with vibrating microneedles (250 lm length) found a statisti- The results of the instrumental analysis also confirm that vitamin C
cally significant increase in the permeability of active substances has antiaging properties. Furthermore, microneedling with 0.5 mm
through the skin following treatment.23 needles was very well tolerated, so patients were able to return to
Another way of improving the active substance penetration is normal daily life directly after treatment.
24
iontophoresis. A 26-month study by Taylor et al identified a 50%
improvement of skin color or more in 63% of subjects treated for
CONFLICT OF INTERESTS
melanoderma with ascorbyl glucoside, a derivative of L-ascorbic acid.
In the present study, Cutometer analysis found increased skin No conflict of interests have been declared.
elasticity and firmness especially on cheeks. Although this atraumatic
measurement was not confirmed by histologic analysis, noninvasive
ORCID
evaluation is an appropriate option for verifying the results of the
subjective questionnaire assessment, especially in face skin studies. Agata Markiewicz http://orcid.org/0000-0002-4023-4333
The skin biopsies of patients treated with topical special formula- Malwina Zasada http://orcid.org/0000-0002-4226-881X
tions with vitamin C were found to have increased collagen levels in Anna Erkiert-Polguj http://orcid.org/0000-0002-5457-2528
the Grenz zone and increased mRNA staining for type I collagen
after 12 weeks of treatment.25 Nusgens et al26 found increased
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