The DeoxIT in spray cans is basically 5% D100 and 95% Isopropanol Alcohol, plus

aerosol; this used to be called DeoxIT D5.

I don't buy that anymore, instead I get the glass bottles of D100 (which is 100%
DeoxIT) with the brush applicator (like a fingernail polish bottle) and make my own
D5. Here's how:

I use 20ml glass bottles with the droppers built into the cap. I add 1ml D100 and
19ml of 91% Iso Alcohol. Shake throughly! This ends up being a 5:95 mix, just like
the spray cans.

I also make up bottles of DeoxIT Gold and Shield the same way.

I use a 1ml syringe to inject the D/Iso mix into ganged push button switches from
behind (inject some, operate switch, repeat) using about 0.2ml per switch. After
this, let it dry for about an hour, then operate the switches for a few minutes
each; this will break up any remaining oxidation. Flush with 91% Iso, blow the
switches out from behind with canned air and finally, give each switch a 0.1ml shot
of the D5 mix; operate each switch once or twice after injection to make sure both
sides of both contacts are coated (if it's >=DPDT switch). Now, let it dry. The
alcohol will evaporate and leave some DeoxIT as a coating.

For rotary switches, I use the D5 mix with the eye dropper. Basically you just coat
each wafer with it and keep turning the switch. After about 10 minutes, spray it
off with 91% Iso, turn the switch some more, spray again and let it dry. Then apply
D100 to a foam swab applicator (Swab-It brand works well for me; *do not* use
cotton applicators like Q-tips, they'll leave lint everywhere) and use it to gently
scrub the metal discs on each wafer. The applicator will turn brown as it removes
oxidation. Then apply a tiny drop of D100 to *each* contact on the wafer (the
contacts are U shaped; the edge of the metal disc slides between them as it
rotates) and work the switch for a few minutes. Wipe off excess with a clean foam
swab.

You should also lubricate the ball bearings of the rotary switch. White Lithium
Grease works well, but if you use it, do *not* use the canned aerosol type. It gets
*everywhere* and you don't want it on the switch contacts or discs! The same
applies for Silicone based spray lubricants. If you use White Lithium Grease, get a
tub of it and apply it sparingly with a toothpick.

What I use is Hoppe's Number 9 with a Precision Needle-Tip Applicator. It's a

mineral based lubricant that doesn't gum up or dry out. If it's good enough to keep
the slide of my H&K USP working perfectly after putting 200 rounds down range, it's
good enough for the bearings of a rotary switch! (It's seriously good lube. I use
it everywhere; locks, hinges, reels, etc.)