Equipment throwing and retrieving frisbees don't tax the body
that much(usually).
For a more detailed discussion of table tennis
equipment, visit the equipment page.
If you are just starting out, take stock of your
equipment (if any):
 Does the equipment meet legal requirements
(in table tennis)?
 Is the equipment in a good enough condition
as to not hamper performance(very
important when starting out)?
The paddle can be of any size and weight, from a
lollipop to a pizza ladle. It must have one side of red
and one side of black.
The table must be 9 feet long by 5 feet wide, and
the surface must be 30 inches from the floor. A
white line divides the table lengthwise, and white
lines form the border of the top surface. The net
used must be 6 inches high, spanning the
entire table at the middle. Although not required for
most uses(as some nets are 5 feet long), regulations
stipulate for a net to be legal, it must stretch out 6
inches beyond the table on both sides.
The ball can either be orange or white, depending
on light conditions and/or personal preferences. Try
to buy the best quality balls possible, even for
practice. This will pay off in the long run. Three-
star balls denote top quality...but even there, quality
differs between manufacturers. Cost is a good
barometer of quality here, about 1$US each for a
respectable ball. They usually get cheaper in bulk.
Good balls last longer and play more consistently
for better practice results.
Pre-Play Preparation
Many people have the misconception that table
tennis is just a "game", and therefore is to be
regarded as such, even to the point of not warming
up properly before play! If the "game" in question
had been light frisbee, then warming up would not
be as much of a concern simply due to the fact that
Warming up helps get your body ready for the rapid
coordinated moves that make table tennis such an
intensive sport. There are no special or unique
exercises; it's just like warming up before playing
any other sport. A light jog, jumpropes, and various
stretches help loosen your muscles and get you "in
gear" for optimum performance. When selecting the
types of stretches(proper techniques can be learned
from books or knowledgeable people-don't overdo
it!), try to cover all parts of the body, from your
neck to the ankles. When you are done playing,
perform cool-down exercises-essentially the same
as warm-ups to gradually improve overall flexibility
and fitness.
Also remember to before picking up the paddle:
 Pack water and towels if necessary
 Take extra balls along in case one breaks or
gets lost(very easily done in garages!)
 Keep 8 feet of space all around the table
clear of traffic or debris
 Make sure the lighting conditions meet
practical standards(see if you can reasonably
track the ball in play)-bad lighting can ruin a
practice
 And finally-be anxious! Get excited about
what you will accomplish, set goals and
work towards them, do anything to make
practicing and playing fun. After all, if you
aren't interested in table tennis, you couldn't
have read this far.
Guide to Grips
The way one chooses to hold his/her table tennis
paddle will make a big difference in his/her play.
There are currently 3 "standard" grips existing in
table tennis today. Because of lack of
experience/expertise, this website will cover
techniques in shakehands only, but most strokes
will transfer over to the other grips with only a few
modifications.
The shakehands grip is the prevalent grip of table
tennis today(as of 1998), used by the majority of
recreational and professional players. The paddle is
gripped with all fingers, with the thumb resting by
itself on the opposite side as the index finger. The
grip is analogous to shaking a hand at an
approximately 45-degree angle. The pinky, ring,
and middle finger wrap around one side of the
handle, and the index finger rests on the bottom
edge of the rubber. The thumb rests on the top of
the handle on the other side, thumbnail
perpendicular to the wood. It should point in the
same direction as the index finger. When held out
straight in front of you, the paddle's edge should
form a line with the outstretched arm. The grip
should feel natural, with no particularly
uncomfortable areas. Too tight a grip can sacrifice
control and power. Be sure to grab the handle
loosely enough so that another person would have
no trouble plucking it from your hand. But at the
same time, maintain enough tightness so the paddle
won't fly out of your hand during an intense loop
shot.
Some of the advantages of using
the shakehands grip are:
 Equally strong forehand and backhand
advantage(provided you pay equal attention
to both)
 Wide selection of paddles to choose from
Once a dominant grip in its heyday,
the penhold grip still has its supporters, world class
players included. The racket is gripped as one
would grip a pen, with the thumb and index finger,
with the rest of the fingers being tucked away on the
other side. There are several variations to this grip,
and two types of paddles to reflect this. The
"chinese" paddles are basically shakehands paddles
with a shortened handle. The remaining fingers rest
against the other side. "Japanese" paddles have a
raised handle, which is called a "hook." The index
finger curls around the "hook" for extra leverage.
Which one you use depends on personal
preferences. Penhold paddles typically only have
one side covered with a rubber sheet. This makes
them lighter than most shakehands paddles. The
other side must still comply with the paddles rule,
so it is usually painted red or black, or covered with
a sheet of colored paper.
Some of the advantages of using the penhold grip
are:
 A dominant forehand game(while backhands
are possible with this grip, the vast majority
of penhold players rely on their forehand
game)-quick feet are required to sustain this!
 Since it is not as widely used, an element of
surprise against opponents unfamiliar with
the grip
The Ready Position/The Importance of Footwork
The typical playing area for table tennis is about 20
feet by 40 feet(the legal dimensions). The actual
table width only occupies 5 feet of the 20. This
means in tough matches, the ball will come in at a
variety of angles, some very sharp. Therefore,
despite the seemingly diminutive area the table
tennis table covers compared to most sports playing
areas/fields, the ability to move the body around
becomes extremely important. But table tennis
footwork also requires precision. The smaller steps
that get you in perfect position for that forehand
loop are just as important as the veritable leaps one
may make while traversing the table edge in pursuit
of a corner smash. Before attempting anything at
the table, however, the correct stance must be
performed.
A ready stance must be kept at all available times
during play to ensure maximum control, power, and
consistency. The typical table tennis stance is a
slight crouch forward, feet shoulder-width apart.
Make sure you bend your knees and ankles. Most of
the weight should be on the balls of the feet,
because this makes quick sudden movements and
pivots necessary for good shots much easier. The
upper arm should be close, but not flush, to your
body. The forearm and racket should point forward,
which requires that the elbow be bent. A relaxed
posture is important, adjust the stance until most of
the tension is gone. Just make sure you aren't so
relaxed that slouching occurs; the idea is to
maintain the optimum position for well-coordinated
and explosive movements.
For right-handers, the place to stand is on the
backhand half of the table. The right foot should be
slightly to the left of the center line. Try to have the
left foot slightly forward. Stand at an enough
distance away from the table so that the tip of your
paddle barely touches the edge of the table. This
should mean standing fairly close to the table; the
arm should be close to the body, not outstretched.
Also, the body should face the table at a slight
angle, with the right foot and shoulder slightly
farther away from the endline than the left. This
allows good positioning for both forehands and
backhands.
When the ready position is mastered, the necessary
footwork can follow. Remember, footwork is done
primarily to position the player for an optimum
shot, one that doesn't have to be reached for.
Therefore any unnecessary movement is a waste of
time and energy, besides allowing your opponent to
catch you unawares with a shot opposite your
direction of movement. Most players use a side to
side shuffle when moving across the table. Doing so
allows one to face the table at all times, important
when the ball is coming in very quickly. The same
principles are used whether moving left or right.
The foot in the direction of movement takes a short
step in that direction, and at the same time the
weight of the body shifts to that foot. At the end of
the shuffle, the other foot slides to take its place
alongside the foot that moved first.
The timing of the footwork is as important as the
actual execution. If done too early, the opponent
will notice and likely fire a shot where you weren't
planning on going. Catch it too late and you will
find yourself reaching for the ball, or worse. Pay
close attention to the opponent when he/she is
getting ready to hit; prepare yourself and don't start
moving until he/she has started his/her stroke.
Follow the ball with your eyes and use the feet to
move to the best shotmaking area relative to where
the ball lands. Don't start the stroke until you have
finished moving. After hitting the ball, get back into
the ready stance immediately, in anticipation for a
return that could go anywhere. When the action gets
fast, all of these movements and decisions must be
made in split seconds. Training will help you get
there.
Basic Strokes
For all of the strokes described below, the arm
should be very relaxed. Power should be
concentrated on the waist, forearm, and wrist
(acting together) like a whip, with the upper arm
moving very little. Almost every shot requires a
little movement to get into correct positioning-in
other words, you can't stand still and play table
tennis! And always remember to return to the ready
position following each shot.
The Drive
Drives, a light topspin stroke that produces a low
ball trajectory, are the primary offensive strokes in
table tennis. One employs drives to force errors and
to set up winners. The mastery of both the forehand
and backhand drives is important because it will
give your opponent less options when using
attacking strokes of his/her own. In executing this
and all other offensive strokes, the usage of the
entire body in unison is important for consistency
and power. Keep in the ready position until you are
ready to execute the shot and remain relaxed but
responsive(this is very important).
FOREHAND DRIVE: Keep the upper arm close,
but not flush, to the torso. The forearm(form a
rough 90 degree bend with the upper arm) should be
drawn back to the 3 o'clock position, and let the
waist turn naturally along with the arm(this is where
relaxing is important). Shift your weight toward the
right foot at the same time. While shifting your
weight back to your left foot, swing forward with a
slight upward motion, with the waist providing
additional force in the swing. Use the elbow as a
pivot point; it should not move so much up and
down, but also should be allowed to move slightly
forward in the follow-through. Contact with the ball
should be made slightly to the side of the body after
the top of the bounce. Make sure the paddle is
somewhat closed(or facing downwards at an angle),
and remains that way throughout the stroke. Follow-
through should finish when racket is parallel with
the left shoulder. Immediately return to the ready
position. The left foot should be slightly in front of
the right for support.
BACKHAND DRIVE: From the ready position,
the waist turns left with the racket pointing towards
the 9 o'clock position. When following through,
contact with the ball is made in front of the body,
slightly after the top of the bounce. Let the elbow
again act as the pivot point, and snap the forearm
forward in a slightly upward direction. Make sure
the paddle is closed. Follow-through should finish
naturally(about 12~1 o'clock) after contact with
ball. The left foot should be slightly ahead of the
right.
Note : Be sure to contact the top half of the ball
when hitting topspin drives.
The Push
Pushes are the basic backspin shots, used to change
the pace of an exchange or to return certain very
low and close shots such as backspin serves. A
generally defensive shot, it allows placement
anywhere on the table that is difficult to attack
when executed properly. All pushes should be done
with the right foot stepping in. The ball is contacted
right after the bounce with an open racket. How
open the racket is depends on the intensity of
backspin on the ball. Heavier backspin requires a
more open racket to return over the net. Try to keep
the ball low, varying the amount of backspin and
racket angle.
FOREHAND PUSH: Bring the racket slightly up
and back, while keeping the elbow at your waist.
Bend the wrist back. Swing forward with a
downward motion, and when the racket reaches the
ball snap the wrist forward for extra racket speed.
With an open racket, graze the bottom half of the
ball. An ideal contact point is right after the ball
bounces. Never push a ball at the top of the bounce,
because the resulting return will pop the ball high
enough for the opponent to execute a smash. Try to
hit the ball in front and slightly to the right of your
body. Follow through forward and slightly down,
and return to the ready position.
BACKHAND PUSH: Bring the racket slightly up
and back, close into your stomach while cocking the
wrist back. This time try to contact the ball directly
in front of your body, and remember to keep the
elbow still while the forearm and wrist move
forward and down. Graze the bottom of the ball and
follow through.
Note : Keep the push stroke gentle, as being too
hasty often makes the ball go long, or too high.
Keep in mind that unlike the drive, the push is more
of a finesse and 'touch' shot. As you advance the
stokes can start becoming more aggressive, with a
variety of spins.
The Block
Blocking allows a player to use the opponent's force
against him/her, and is done immediately after the
bounce so that maximum control and speed are
retained. Adjusting the racket angle depends on the
severity of topspin on the ball; the more topspin
there is, the more you should close the racket. Being
essentially a cut-down drive, there is very little
backswing and follow-through. Think of blocking
as a backup shot that can be used when there isn't
enough time for a full drive or loop. Depending on
how much control you have over the block, it can
be used offensively as well. Use your wrist to vary
the direction of these block-returns, and make sure
footwork takes you to the most choice areas to hit
in.
The Smash
The smash, or kill, is the put-away stroke of table
tennis. Any ball that is high enough and close
enough to the opponent's side can be smashed,
although some opportunities are better than others.
Smashing combines waist, forearm, and wrist
movement to the fullest extent. A good smash is
very hard to return, but it can be done. Do not
dawdle after you have executed a smash. The ball is
contacted at the top of the bounce at its highest
point.
FOREHAND SMASH: Similar to the drive, the
key differences include:
 A longer backswing
 Greater weight transfer during swing
 Faster, more intense snapping of the forearm
when contacting ball
 Depending on ball height and position, the
racket is closed more than usual to keep the
ball in the court
 Longer follow-through, but don't forget to
anticipate a possible return!
BACKHAND SMASH: Again, use the guidelines
above and apply them to the backhand drive. Be
sure to snap the wrist more as you contact the ball
and finish in a long follow-through.
Note on smashes: Don't just indiscriminately smash
the ball when you find the opening; instead, try to
direct the ball to a location where it is least likely to
be hit back, accidentally or intentionally.
Basic Service Techniques
The following are the basic rules of service:
1. The ball must be held above the table level
in order for the opponent and umpire to see
it.
2. The ball must be held in the palm of the
hand with fingers stretched, and tossed
vertically at least six inches.
3. The ball must be struck only on the way
down.
4. The ball must be struck behind the end line.
Serves are entirely up to the player; there are no
specific serves that must be used by everybody. But
to begin with, there are some basic serves that
should be experimented with. Imparting spin on
these serves should be concentrated mostly on the
wrist.
Backspin- just like pushing or chopping, a backspin
serve is executed with an open racket slicing the
bottom of the ball.
Topspin- like driving, topspin serves can be done
hitting with a flat racket, or like looping, where the
player grazes the top of the ball with a closed racket
for more spin.
Sidespin- simply hit the back of the ball in a left-to-
right or right-to-left motion, as desired. To make the
stroke easier, try holding the racket in front of you
and brushing the bottom of the ball in a pendulum
motion.
Notes on serves: Be sure to assume the ready
position as soon as you finish your service motion.
Keep the ball as low as possible to prevent an early
attack by the opponent. Experiment with all the
spins; mix up your serves during games. The spins
are not the only thing that should be varied. Practice
placing the ball in different depths and in different
directions. Unlike doubles, a singles serve can go
anywhere on the opponent's court. The advantage to
service is the uncertainty faced by the returner. Be
as inconspicuous as possible.
RULES OF TABLE TENNIS
BASIC RULES OF TABLE TENNIS AS PER
THE ITTF
The Table
The upper surface of the table, known as the playing
surface, shall be rectangular, 2.74m long and
1.525m wide, and shall lie in a horizontal plane
76cm above the floor. The playing surface shall not
include the vertical sides of the tabletop. The
playing surface may be of any material and shall
yield a uniform bounce of about 23cm when a
standard ball is dropped on to it from a height of
30cm. The playing surface shall be uniformly dark
coloured and matte, but with a white side line, 2cm
wide, along each 2.74m edge and a white end line,
2cm wide, along each 1.525m edge. The playing
surface shall be divided into 2 equal courts by a
vertical net running parallel with the end lines, and
shall be continuous over the whole area of each
court. For doubles, each court shall be divided into
2 equal half-courts by a white centre line, 3mm
wide, running parallel with the side lines; the centre
line shall be regarded as part of each right half-
court.
The Net Assembly
The net assembly shall consist of the net, its
suspension and the supporting posts, including the
clamps attaching them to the table. The net shall be
suspended by a cord attached at each end to an
upright post 15.25cm high, the outside limits of the
post being 15.25cm outside the side line. The top of
the net, along its whole length, shall be 15.25cm
above the playing surface. The bottom of the net,
along its whole length, shall be as close as possible
to the playing surface and the ends of the net shall
be attached to the supporting posts from top to
bottom.
The Ball
The ball shall be spherical, with a diameter of
40mm. The ball shall weigh 2.7g. The ball shall be
made of celluloid or similar plastics material and
shall be white or orange, and matt.
The Racket
- The racket can be any size, shape or weight but the
blade shall be flat and rigid.
- The surface covering material shall be matt and
bright red on one side and black on the other.
- At least 85% of the blade thickness shall be of
natural wood.
Definitions
- A rally is the period which the ball is in play.
- A let is a rally of which the result is not scored.
- A point is a rally of which the result is scored.
- The server is the player due to strike the ball first
in the rally.
- The receiver is the player due to strike the ball
second in a rally.
- The ball shall be regarded as passing over or
around the net assembly if it passes anywhere other
then between the net and the net post or between the
net and the playing surface.
The Service
Service shall start with the ball resting freely on the
open palm of the server's stationary free hand. The
server shall then project the ball near vertically
upwards, without imparting spin, so that it rises at
least 16cm after leaving the palm of the free hand
and then falls without touching anything before
being struck. As the ball is falling the server shall
strike it so that it touches first his or her court and
then, after passing over or around the net assembly,
touches directly the receiver's court; in doubles, the
ball shall touch successively the right half court of
server and receiver. From the start of service until it
is struck, the ball shall be above the level of the
playing surface and behind the server's end line, and
it shall not be hidden from the receiver by the server
or his or her doubles partner or by anything they
wear or carry. As soon as the ball has been
projected, the server’s free arm and hand shall be
removed from the space between the ball and the
net.
The space between the ball and the net is defined by
the ball, the net and its indefinite upward
extension. It is the responsibility of the player to
serve so that the umpire or the assistant umpire can
be satisfied that he or she complies with the
requirements of the Laws, and either may decide
that a service is incorrect. If either the umpire or the
assistant umpire is not sure about the legality of a
service he or she may, on the first occasion in a
match, interrupt play and warn the server; but any
subsequent service by that player or his or her
doubles partner which is not clearly legal shall be
considered incorrect. Exceptionally, the umpire may
relax the requirements for a correct service where
he or she is satisfied that compliance is prevented
by physical disability.
The Return
The ball, having been served or returned shall be
struck so that it passes over or around the net
assembly and touches the opponents court, either
directly or after touching the net assembly.
The Order of Play
In singles the server shall make a first service and
the receiver shall make a return
and thereafter alternately shall each make a return.
In doubles, the server shall first make a service, the
receiver shall then make a return, the partner of the
server shall then make a return, the partner of the
receiver shall then make a return and thereafter each
player in turn in that sequence shall make a return.
A Point
Unless the rally is a let, a player shall score a point
if an opponent fails to make a correct service;
if an opponent fails to make a correct return;
if, after he or she has made a service or a return, the
ball touches anything other than the net assembly
before being struck by an opponent;
if the ball passes over his or her court or beyond his
or her end line without touching his or her court,
after being struck by an opponent;
if an opponent obstructs the ball;
if an opponent deliberately strikes the ball twice in
succession;
if an opponent strikes the ball with a side of the
racket blade whose surface does not comply with
the requirements of 2.4.3, 2.4.4 and 2.4.5;
if an opponent, or anything an opponent wears or
carries, moves the playing surface;
if an opponent, or anything an opponent wears or
carries, touches the net assembly;
if an opponent's free hand touches the playing
surface;
if a doubles opponent strikes the ball out of the
sequence established by the first server and first
receiver;
as provided under the expedite system (2.15.4).
if both players or pairs are in a wheelchair due to a
physical disability and
his or her opponent does not maintain a minimum
contact with the seat or cushion(s), with the back of
the thigh, when the ball is struck;
his or her opponent touches the table with either
hand before striking the ball;
his or her opponent's footrest or foot touches the
floor during play.
as provided under the order of play (2.8.3).
A Game
A game shall be won by a player or pair first
scoring 11 points unless both players or pairs score
10 points, when the game shall be won by the first
player or pair subsequently gaining a lead of 2
points.
A Match
A match shall consist of the best of any odd number
of games. All you need is a table, a net, a ball and a
racket to get started. You can play anywhere, at any
anytime and just a couple of hours a week hitting
that little white ball around can do wonders for your
fitness.
Like all sports, there are of course some rules to
follow, whether you’re playing a friendly match at
the HDB void deck or participating in a tournament.
The International Table Tennis Federation
(ITTF) is the sport’s main regulatory body and sets
the rules for the game.
Your Equipment
While there are fewer restrictions in a friendly
match, the ITTF carefully regulates the equipment
used during a tournament.
The table, or playing surface, should be 2.74m long
and 1.525m wide, on a platform 76cm above the
floor. The top of the net, along its whole length,
must also be 15.25cm above the playing surface.
In a tournament, the ball used must have a diameter
of 40mm and weigh exactly 2.7g. Additionally, the
ball can only be made out of celluloid or similar
plastics material and be either white or orange, and
matt, in colour .
Finally, the racket can be of any size, shape or
weight but the blade must be flat and rigid and be
made out of 85% natural wood. Before the start of a
match, a player must allow his/her opponent and the
umpire to inspect the racket he/she is about to use.
Playing The Game
A game is started when one player (server) makes a
service before the receiver makes the return.
The Server should:
- start with the ball resting freely on an open palm.
- project the ball near vertically upwards, without
imparting spin, so that it rises at least 16cm.
- strike the ball so that it touches first his/her court
and then, after passing over the net assembly,
touches directly the receiver's court. In doubles, the
ball must touch successively the right half court of
server and receiver.
Once the ball has been served, both players are to
make returns until a point is scored. In doubles,
each player on the same team must take turns to
make the return.
After 2 points have been scored, the receiving
player/pair shall become the serving player/pair and
so on until the end of the game.
Scoring
A set is when one of the players or pairs first score
11 points. In the event that both players/pairs score
10 points, a set is be won by the first player/pair to
gain a 2-point lead. A full match is won when a
player or pair wins the best of any odd number of
sets (3,5,7).
A point is scored when:
1. an opponent fails to make a correct service,
2. an opponent fails to make a return,
3. the ball touches any part of an opponent’s body,
4. an opponent strikes the ball twice in succession,
5. if an opponent, or anything an opponent wears,
touches the playing surface or net during play,
6. if a doubles opponent strikes the ball out of the
sequence established by the first server and first
receiver.