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Professional

Application
Manual
Includes details on Perfection
polyurethane finishes.
Introduction

Who is this for?


This manual contains a wealth of detailed “how to” information aimed at professional applicators,
designers, naval architects, project managers, estimators, specifiers, skippers and many other
people involved in the finishing of marine craft.
Health and Safety, project management, typical paint specifications, how to apply primers, fillers,
Perfection and antifoulings are all covered along with specimen specifications.
It is a working document in that it should be kept handy to the workplace as well as the office
bookshelf.
We are sure you will find it useful and as always we appreciate feedback on other items you feel
could be included or indeed any improvements you feel could be made.
An allied manual for those with an interest in GRP vessels and osmosis treatment (repair and
prevention) should request a copy of the Gelshield Plus Application Manual which is a treatise on
all aspects of osmosis in GRP vessels.
Also available is the comprehensive HT9000 Multipurpose Epoxy Resin Guide Manual that explains
in detail how to get the best from this versatile material. Also included in this manual is technical
data and many pages of “how to” practical advice.

Australia
Queensland. 115 Hyde Road, Yeronga, QLD 4104
Tel: 61 7 3892 8888, 1800 251 431

New Zealand
686 Rosebank Road, Avondale, Auckland
Tel: 64 9 828 3009, 0800 808 807

Pacific Islands
115 Hyde Road, Yeronga Q 4103 Australia
Tel: 61 7 3892 8816

Singapore
3 Neythal Road, Singapore 628570
Tel: +65 6261 5033

Edition 7, February 2015

Disclaimer
All representations and statements concerning the product(s) in this brochure are accurate to the best of our knowledge. Statements made in this brochure are
advisory only and are not intended to be specific recommendations or warranties of any product, combination of products or fitness for any particular purpose. To
the extent permitted by law, we do not accept any liability to any person for any loss or damage (direct or indirect) that may arise from any use of or reliance on
any of the methods or information contained in the brochure for any purpose.
Unless otherwise agreed in writing, all products supplied and technical advice or recommendations given are advisory only and subject to the Conditions of Sale of
our supplying company. Any warranties, if given, are contained in those standard Conditions of Sale and are the only ones made with respect to any products we
sell to you or advice or recommendations we give to you.

® International ® and all products mentioned in this brochure are trademarks of, or licensed to, Akzo Nobel © Akzo Nobel, 2003 International
Coatings Limited, Stoneygate Lane, Felling, Gateshead NE10 0JY. Tel: +44 (0) 191 469 6111 Fax: +44 (0) 191 438 3711
Contents
Index
Subject Page Number

Surface Preparation

Steel 1
Aluminium 3
GRP and Epoxy 5
Wood 7
Existing Paint Schemes 11
Repair 13

Application

Primers & Painting Tanks 14


Fillers 18
Antifoulings 21

Perfection details

Perfection Overview 23
Accelerator 24
Effect of moisture 25
Solvents (thinners) and solvent use 27
Viscosity conversion table 28
Spray equipment 28
Brush application guidelines 31
Detailing and chemicals 34
Tinted Perfection colour 34
General information on ancillary primers 35
Spray equipment for ancillary products 36
Pressure drops in airlines 38

Health & Safety Page 39

Paint Supplies, Storage and Shelf Life Page 40

Coating Diary Page 41

Coating schemes Page 43

Painting Project – Control Guidelines Page 52

Useful calculator tables (4) Page 58

Product Listings (names, equivalents, sales codes) Page 62

Easy reference sample specifications Page 63


Surface Steel
Preparation
Good Surface Preparation is essential if the full potential of high performance epoxy schemes is to
be realised.

Grit blasting is preferable for the preparation of bare steel, however, disk grinding may be used
for the preparation of welds and limited areas where blasting is impractical. Wire brushing is
ineffective and should not be used with these painting schemes.

Abrasive grit blasting


Abrasive Grit Blasting is by far the most effective method for removal of mill scale, rust and old
coatings. The commonly used grades of blast cleaning, and the approximate equivalents between
various international standards are as follows:

USA Specs NACE Australian British Swedish Japanese


SSPC Standards Standards Standard
4232 SIS s SPSS
05.5900
White SSPC-SP.5 NACE #1 AS1627.4 Class 3 First Quality Sa 3 JASh3 or
Metal JASd3
Near White SSPC-SP 10 NACE #2 AS1627.4 Class 2.5 Second Quality Sa 2½ JASh2 or
Metal JASd2
Commercial SSPC-SP .6 NACE #3 AS1627.4 Class 2 Third Quality Sa 2 JASh1 or
Blast JASd1

The preparation standard required for any particular coating specification depends upon a number
of factors, the most important of which is the type of coating system selected.

Prior to blasting, steelwork should be degreased with a suitable detergent and weld spatter
removed. If grease or oil is present on the surface, it will appear to be removed by the blasting
process, but this is not the case and it should be removed. Although not visible, contamination
will still be present as a thin layer, and will affect the adhesion of subsequent coatings. Weld
seams and sharp edges should be ground down, as paint tends to run away from sharp edges,
resulting in thin coatings and reduced protection. Weld spatter is a common cause of premature
failure as it is almost impossible to coat evenly and is often loosely adhered.

The surface profile achieved during blasting is important, and will depend upon the abrasive used,
the air pressure and the blasting technique. An inadequate profile will not provide sufficient
mechanical key for adhesion of the coatings. An excessive profile may result in uneven coverage
of high, sharp peaks leading to premature failure, particularly when using thin coatings such as
blast primers. Consult your local supplier for details of suitable blasting media. It is essential that
all debris be removed by vacuum cleaning before painting commences.

1
Shop Primed Steel
Steel is frequently supplied ready blasted and primed - these primers are commonly referred to as
‘pre-treatment’ or ‘shop’ primers. Care should be taken during fabrication to prevent the primers
being damaged. The primers themselves are capable of protecting the steel even in aggressive
industrial/marine environments for up to 6 months. Additional coats of these types of primers
should NOT be applied, as this will compromise the integrity of the painting scheme.

Over-coating of these primers without blasting back to the bare steel is often possible. Consult
your International Technical Representative to confirm which primers can be over-coated in this
way.

Mechanical Abrasion
Preparation of the steel using an abrasive disk grinder must be preceded with surface degreasing
using a solvent wash and clean dry rag. Disk grind the steel with 24 to 36 grit disks to a uniform,
clean bright metal leaving a 50 - 75 micron (2-3 mil) anchor pattern.

Priming Interval
Once the surface has been prepared to the correct standard, it must be over-coated before oxides
start to form on the surface. If the coating scheme is not scheduled to be applied immediately
following the preparation procedure, a Holding Primer should be applied to prevent rusting,
preferably within a 6-8 hour period. If the scheme is to be applied directly following the
preparation, the Initial Primer can be applied thinned appropriately to promote surface wetting.
Refer to Priming Application further on in this manual.

Summary
Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a minimum of Sa 2½. Prior to blasting:
Steelwork should be degreased and weld splatter removed.
Weld seams and sharp edges should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being applied.
The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting
technique,
 Inadequate profile = Insufficient mechanical key.
 Excessive profile = Uneven coverage of sharp peaks.

All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting.


Compare blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.
Measure Mean Apparent Amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the steel is
not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

2
Surface Aluminium
Preparation
Very thorough surface preparation of Aluminium is essential if the coating scheme applied is to
perform well. Aluminium, although when used in the marine industry is alloyed with magnesium,
is a reactive metal, whose surface will react with atmospheric oxygen to form an almost invisible
oxide layer. This occurs almost instantly on cutting or abrading, and can only be prevented under
impractical laboratory conditions. Moreover in damp marine environments a portion of the oxide
will, in the passage of time, convert to the lighter and more visible hydroxide.

Furthermore, aluminium is prone to corrosion in a marine environment, particularly in confined


spaces such as crevices and behind poorly adherent paint films. Therefore good surface
protection is of paramount importance.

Aluminium can suffer serious galvanic corrosion unless care is taken in the choice of underwater
fittings, propellers etc. In this respect, the use of cuprous oxide or metallic flake containing
antifouling should be avoided. Reference should be made to the section on Antifouling
application.

Degreasing
Before any other preparation commences, the aluminium surface must be thoroughly degreased
to remove flushing oils and other surface contamination. Solvent wiping using clean cloths can
effectively degrease small areas, but these must be changed frequently to avoid re-distributing
contaminants. Large areas should be degreased with a suitable detergent. Some areas may
require repeated application, and vigorous cloth rubbing to remove all contamination.
Alternatively a solvent may be used such as reputable “Wipe-down Solvent”.

Once degreased, the surface must not be touched by hand until painted, in order to avoid grease
spots and consequent paint detachment.

Grit Blasting
Grit Blasting is the preferred method of preparation, as it provides an ideal profile for good paint
adhesion and removes surface corrosion.

Ideally aluminium oxide grit should be used, and a suitable grade chosen to achieve a surface
profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils). Aluminium oxide abrasives, whilst expensive, can normally be
re-used without detriment to the surface profile. Other suitable inert abrasives do exist and advice
should be obtained from the suppliers of the blasting aggregate.

Sand is not ideal for grit blasting as, apart from being injurious to health, it is often not sharp
enough to provide the necessary surface profile. The use of copper slag abrasives (as often used
on steel) must be avoided, as these will promote serious corrosion.

Once blasted, all debris should be completely removed, followed by application of the Initial
Primer or a Holding Primer, ideally within a 6-8 hour period.

Mechanical Abrasion
As an alternative mechanical method, aluminium may be prepared by abrasive disk to provide the
necessary surface profile for good paint adhesion. Whilst this is not as effective as grit blasting,
this method has been used successfully by many yards.

A coarse abrasive disk (Aluminium Oxide) should be used (24-36 grit) to achieve a heavily scored
surface profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils). After grinding, the surface should be vacuum
cleaned, followed by application of the Initial Primer or a Holding Primer, within a 6-8 hour period.

3
Under no circumstances must any form of lubricant or anti-blocking compound be
used on the grinding discs or the aluminium surface as this will result in delamination
of the paint system.

Etch Primers
Etch primers achieve adhesion by chemical reaction with the substrate, and may be applied
directly to a degreased surface, but for optimum performance the aluminium should be lightly
abraded to offer some mechanical adhesion. If etch primer is applied to a ground or blasted
surface, accurate control of film thickness is important. Over-application to any surface must be
avoided as this will lead to failure through solvent absorption or splitting of the primer film.
Temperature during application is also important, and a minimum substrate temperature of 10°C
(50°F) must be maintained.

Once applied, etch primers must be over-coated with a suitable primer of correct film thickness
within the recommended over-coating period. They must not be used in potable water tanks.

Chemical (‘Mil-Spec’) Pre-treatments


Whilst often effective, these are complex and employ chemicals hazardous for large-scale use.
They are also coming under increasing environmental pressure, and will not be considered further
here, as their use is beyond the scope of this article.
Chemical (‘Mil-Spec’) Pre-treatments
Anodised Aluminium
Anodised Aluminium is often required to be painted and special techniques are required to
achieve this.

If a full filling and fairing system is to be applied it is recommended that the surface be well
profiled by removing all anodising and treating the aluminium surface as described previously.
If the surface is to be painted only, then the surface should be abraded with 180 -220 grit paper
to provide a water break free surface.

Etch Primer should then be applied followed by the chosen paint system.

Summary
Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a surface profile of 50-75 microns (2-3 mils).
Prior to blasting:
The surface should be degreased and weld splatter removed. Weld seams and sharp edges
should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being applied.
The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting
technique,

 Inadequate profile = Insufficient mechanical key.


 Excessive profile = Uneven coverage of sharp peaks.

All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting.


Compare blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.
Measure Mean Apparent Amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the
aluminium is not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

4
Surface GRP/Epoxy Composites
Preparation

Female Moulded GRP


Fibreglass hulls and components are often made in a mould and therefore it follows that to
release them from the female mould, a release agent of various types will have been used.

These can vary from silicone-modified waxes, to hard pure waxes to water miscible polyvinyl
alcohol release agents. In the case of some GRP/FRP composites the mould is a male mould and
the release agent is therefore on the inside of the structure rather than the outside. In either
case they must be removed before painting can commence and emulsifying with detergent before
thoroughly washing off with fresh water usually does this.

A key indicator to thorough removal of release agent is that the surface will become fully wetted
with water if all mould release agents has been removed. If release agents remain, water will
remain in droplets on the surface. In this instance the process should be repeated.

Male Moulded FRP/Composite


In many cases and in particular with the higher performance composite constructions, larger
structures tend not to be built using a female mould, being built over frames and inverted before
painting takes place.

In this instance the outer polyester surface will not be coated with mould release agent and you
will be presented with a surface rich polyester lay up. This will either have had wax or some
similar additive added to ensure full cure of the polyester or else no additives added and the
resulting surface will present a partially cured surface. Either way the surface requires to be
removed by sanding in the case of a waxed surface or solvent washing to remove uncured resin
and then followed by heavy sanding.

It should be noted that these surfaces are more difficult to prepare than hulls removed from a
mould and may take several applications and some abrasion to render the surface suitable for
painting. Again a water-wetting test is a good indicator that the surface is satisfactory for
painting. If unsatisfactory, water droplets will form as distinct from fully wetting out on an
adequately prepared surface.

If a nylon peel ply has been used to finish off these outer layers, simple removal of this layer will
present a chemically clean, mechanically keyed surface to which an epoxy primer can be applied
with minimal extra labour.

A suitable period of time should be allowed between the completion of any lamination and the
application of epoxy primer to ensure that the polyester or vinyl ester resin (does not apply to
epoxy laminates) has cured sufficiently to avoid un-reacted styrene inhibiting the cure of the
epoxy. Consult your International Technical Representative for advice on this.

As with all GRP structures the surface should be carefully checked for pinholing that requires to
be filled before paint application takes place. Failure to do so will render the finish unsatisfactory.
It is also advisable to check for air occlusions in the laminate surface and arrange for them to be
cut out and filled after the hull is degreased and before paint applications.
Whilst initially this will not affect the finished appearance, air occlusions give way to blistering
and/or craze cracking once the vessel is in service.

5
Epoxy Surfaces
Epoxy composite surfaces are many and varied and range from resin rich to resin lean and vary in
degree or cure depending on whether the laminate has been room temperature cured or post
cured at elevated temperatures.

Basically each laminate painted must be dealt with as a one off surface as no two are likely to be
the same.
Before painting or filling and fairing some degree of surface preparation is inevitably required.

Resin lean laminates that have been well cured may require the laminator to apply a surface layer
of resin suitably cured so that this sacrificial layer can be sanded to give a profile suitable for
painting. Sanding a resin lean laminate can result in damage to the fabric lay up especially with
carbon fibre and Kevlar types.

Some laminate surfaces will under low power magnification reveal high levels of pin holes and air
inclusions at or near the surface rendering the surface unfit for preparation and painting. Again
the laminate manufacturer must make good this type of surface.

Peel ply surfaces can also reveal many surface defects so such a surface is not necessarily okay to
paint as is.

The final result required is a layer of epoxy that has been well sanded to reveal a dull even finish
free from pin holes or air inclusions at or just below the surface.

Summary
For the moulded face of the substrate, the mould release agent must be thoroughly removed by
detergent cleaners or special solvents, and possibly sanding.

Any gelcoat surface should then be checked for:


Pinholes - if present these will need to be filled prior to painting.
Star Crazes - very difficult to detect and sometimes only show up after the first coat of paint has
been applied. They need to be ground out and filled.
Blisters - this may mean moisture content, so the hull should be checked for osmotic attack
using a moisture meter. If osmosis is present the gelcoat will need to be removed and an
osmosis treatment scheme applied.
All surfaces should be abraded with 180 - 220 grade papers to ensure a good mechanical key is
present.

6
Surface Wood
Preparation
Wood is the only natural boat building material in use today. Perhaps this is why wood is so
aesthetically pleasing and it is certainly why wooden trim, rails in particular, is so widely used on
pleasure craft. As wood species vary immensely it is not intended to go into any detail here. If in
doubt you are advised to consult your International Technical Representative for advice on
surface preparation. However, the following are basic pointers for those approaching this for the
first time.

All boat-building materials have advantages and disadvantages and wood is no exception. Firstly
wood can rot although in yacht construction only those timbers with the highest levels of rot
resistance are used. These are timbers of high natural oil content; Afrormosia, Burmese teak and
Utile being common amongst the many species used. Secondly, timber expands and contracts as
it absorbs moisture and dries out and therefore its movement is often much greater than that
experienced with other construction materials.

Using modern paint technology it is possible to place an almost impermeable membrane over a
wooden hull. Wood/epoxy composites are a typical example of this. But remember … older boats,
often undergoing major re-fits, need to absorb a small amount of moisture to swell the planking
and keep the seams tight. So the type of construction governs the type of paint system.
Traditionally constructed classic vessels use combinations of hard and soft (softer) timbers.
Various species have qualities that necessitate different paints. If you have any doubts about the
type of paint required for the constructional type of vessel you are maintaining consult your
International Technical Representative.

Old bare wood should be checked for wet rot, gribble or teredo worm, signs of reaction with
metals, cracking, or flexing allowing water penetration. Wet rot usually occurs if the moisture
content of the timber exceeds 30% and is attacked by microscopic fungi. Any exposed timber will
be seen as dark in colour and whilst still wet is compressible and friable when dry. Salt water
tends to retard wet rot but as many vessels moor in harbours prone to fresh water layering the
risk is a realistic one. Gribble is a crustacean about 3 mm long. It lives in salt water and bores into
timber eventually reducing it to a crumbling mass. However, it is incapable of boring through well-
painted surfaces. The same can be said of the teredo worm. The tiny worm enters the timber
through damage to the paintwork and eats its way progressively along the grain. Sound
paintwork prevents this. Splits and cracks in timber need careful examination to establish the
true cause and effect before painting.

The foregoing is a basic guide for inspecting wooden vessels in service. We now reach the point
where preparation needs to be considered.

It may prove necessary to remove old coatings, a common method being to burn it off. This is a
very effective method but there are points to be aware of and care to be taken. Burning off
should be carried out in open air or well-ventilated conditions. Whilst modern gas torches are
more controllable than the traditional blow torch, areas to be varnished need careful attention to
prevent unsightly scorching of the timber. Beware of burned off material falling to the ground and
continuing to burn. Keep the area below clear of combustible materials. Do not burn off or dry
sand antifouling since the dust and degradation product are at least irritating and at worst
toxic. Consult the manufacturer’s safety data sheets before attempting to burn off paint. More
modern methods of paint removal on timber include bead blasting with microscopic beads at low
pressure. Hydro-blasting has also been used.

All bare wood should be sanded down either by hand or mechanical methods. Always sand along
the grain to remove remnants of old paint out of the grain. Sanding across the grain causes
scratches, which even in new construction cannot be camouflaged and would show as unsightly
marks particularly when varnishing. All traces of sanding dust must be removed as this will impair
adhesion and produce a bitty finish. With oily woods such as teak, swab the surface with a strong
solvent and wipe down with lint free cloths, followed by sanding. This removes the residual oil
which otherwise would impair subsequent paint or varnish adhesion.

7
Grades of paper vary between brands so the exact grades used may need to vary from those shown.
Depending on the final surface hardness of the paint, grades of paper used may need to change. The aim
should be to use grades of paper such that no sanding marks print through the final finish when the system
has reached its final cured state.

Grade of paper Typical use

60/80/100 When used for sanding timber it should be used in the direction of the grain to remove
remnants of old paint that have been burnt off or stripped with paint stripper. Will leave
timber in a scratched condition.
Also used for sanding epoxy based fillers and removal of heavy build-up of old paint
schemes.

180 Used for sanding epoxy primers prior to applying the final coats of finishing primer or
undercoat
180 - 220 Often used on new wood or timber that has been burned off. Would not advise using on
timber, which is to be varnished, as it is too course. Widely used for sanding dressing fillers
and fine surfacing compounds, high build primers etc.
240 One of the most widely used rubbing down papers. Final sanding of primers is not
uncommon nor is the rubbing down of old enamel prior to re-coating with either basecoat
or finishes. If print thru of sanding marks occurs switch to 320 - 400.
280 Used for sanding timber prior to varnishing especially with single pack varnishes.
320 - 400 Use on undercoats or primers before application of finish coats and for freshly applied
finish coats prior to applying further finish coats. 400 grade used for sanding varnishes
before applying final coat.
400 - 600 Mainly used for taking out blemishes in paint films prior to the application of final coat or
glaze coat.
800 upwards Mainly used for burnishing and polishing.

Painting and Varnishing Timber


Varnished wood brings charm and character to any vessel. Unfortunately it can also bring
problems and extra work if it is to enhance the appearance of the vessel. Wood has to contend
with sun and sea and often with harsh chemicals such as teak deck treatments that can run or be
splashed over its surface. Flaking varnish, blackened or discoloured woods are problems we have
all seen but careful preparation and good application practices can overcome this, particularly
with today’s sophisticated paints and varnishes.

For varnishing, once all dust is removed, apply the first coat of varnish usually thinned by 25%,
(check the appropriate specification in this manual) which will seal the timber before further
varnishing. In certain types of timber multiple thinned coats of varnish may be required before full
coats can be applied.

For painted surfaces the same principle applies. Thinned coats of initial primer will aid penetration
of the timber and subsequent adhesion of the scheme. Paint specifications are written for
guidance and it may be when painting certain types of timber that extra coats of primer are
required for those of a more porous nature.

Certain timbers, those of a less oily nature, may need a timber preservative before priming. If in
doubt consult your International Technical Representative.
When wet sanding primer take care not to abrade through to bare timber. Wet sanding should
only take place when an adequate thickness of primer is on the surface.

8
Boat Building Timbers - Some Typical Characteristics
Species Hard Main Colour Density Rot Characteristics
Soft Country of per resist-
Origin cubic ance
foot
Larch Soft Europe Yellow/ 20 - 23 Good Tough, durable but resinous.
Brown Excellent for planking. Not
difficult to paint.
Parana Soft South Cream/ 14-16 Poor Tough even texture but easily
Pine America Brown warps. Absorbent when painting
usually needs a timber
preservative.
Pitch Pine Soft Honduras Red/ 22-24 Good Resinous, flammable but very
Brown durable. Excellent for planking.
Sometimes difficult to wet out
when applying primers, must
thin first coats to assist timber
penetration.
Red Baltic Soft Russia/UK/ Yellow/ 11-12 Good Prone to shrink. Knots liable to
Pine Scandinavia Red Brown dry and drop out. Darkens with
age. No good for varnishing due
to natural discoloration of
timber. Primes easily.
Spruce Soft Europe Yellow 20-22 Good Durable, tough but resinous.
/Brown Mainly used for masts and spars
and occasionally for small clinker
craft. Easy to prime or varnish.
Western Soft Canada Yellow tan 10-11 Very Very straight grained. Easy to
Red Cedar good paint and varnish. Tendency to
be absorbent.
Afrormosia Hard Africa Brown 18-24 Very Hard, close-grained often used
good as a substitute for teak
particularly for decks and
superstructures. Paint and
varnish as for teak.
Ash Hard Japan White 15-16 Good Straight grain mainly used for
Europe cream frames. Take care wetting out
with primer.
Mahogany Hard Sth America Reddish 14-15 Good Varying species widely used for
Africa Brown fitting interiors, planking,
bulkheads etc. Can be painted
and varnished without difficulty.
Oak Hard UK/USA Yellow 20-23 Good Mainly used for frames and
Japan Lt.Brown fittings. Very acid timber
discolours steel fittings. Difficult
to wet out with paints and
varnishes. Initial coats may
appear to be cissing.(fish eyes)
Obeche Hard Africa Light 9-11 Poor Used in cheap cabin furnishings.
Yellow Difficult to paint or varnish
absorbs unevenly.
Ramin Hard Malaysia Straw 18-19 Good Tendency to split. Not difficult to
paint or varnish.
Teak Hard India Burma Brown 20-24 Very Extremely durable and stable.
good Difficult to paint and varnish may
need special products. Can be
used for almost any part of
yacht construction.
Utile Hard Central Reddish 15-18 Very Veneers and marine ply are
Africa Brown good major uses and cabin furniture.
Not difficult to paint or varnish.
Iroko Hard Africa Brown 20-24 Very Not related to teak but almost as
good good. Used as for teak but not
so attractive when varnished.

9
Miscellaneous Points
An average ‘dry’ piece of timber contains about 10 -12% moisture, whilst kiln dried can be as low
as 5%. Any excessive variation from this will cause problems. Excessive moisture in timber can
weaken glue; corrode metal fastenings and cause warping.

Reaction with metals. Acid in timber can affect metal fastenings particularly in the older vessel.
A typical example would be mahogany on oak with steel fastenings if the insulation has become
damaged. This will be seen as blue/black staining.

Remember also that if treating plywood surfaces, particularly those panels that have been bent to
a curve, the outer veneer will be stretched, which may later result in tension cracking that will
break the paint film and allow water ingress. Check carefully before painting.

Important note:
Painting a wooden surface with a 2-component polyurethane and epoxy coating system is by its
very nature, complex. Wood shrinks and swells as it absorbs moisture, unless it is completely
encased in an epoxy in which case it is considered a composite. Epoxies and polyurethane don’t
absorb water vapour to the same degree, and because of the movement inherent in a wooden
vessel whilst at sea, an epoxy and polyurethane coating system is very often in a state of stress.
Over time this stress will likely cause a release of the coating system from the substrate. The
amount of time this takes is a function of the type of wood, the condition of the wood at the time
of painting, the quality of the preparation, and the type of construction of the vessel. For this
reason it is not possible to warrant a coating system on a wood substrate.

A wood surface that has one or more coats of an enamel, enamel primer, or a one-part urethane
or epoxy topcoat on it should be stripped prior to re-coating with a 2- component polyurethane

10
Surface Existing Paint Schemes
Preparation
In general, existing paint schemes require a relatively straightforward preparation regime.
However, in some instances the existing paint scheme is being over-coated following a scheme
failure of some sort. In this situation it is essential that the cause of the failure be known in order
that the correct coatings and preparation are utilised to minimise, or eliminate re-occurrence. As
these circumstances will vary from case to case it is not intended to cover all situations here. The
following is just a guide covering a limited number of aspects. Consult your International
Technical Representative for advice on how to proceed in these circumstances.

Summary of key points in the preparation of existing, non-immersed


painted surfaces
Once a vessel has been at sea for some time the surface presented to the painter is one
contaminated by much more than salt crystals.

 All surfaces should be thoroughly degreased using a suitable liquid detergent. Additional
degreasing with a solvent wipe may be necessary in some situations or where there are
traces of grease or silicones present. This is particularly relevant to those vessels that
have been repeatedly polished. To help determine whether the surface is free from
contamination, wet the surface with water. If the water forms droplets the surface
remains contaminated but if the water wets the surface uniformly (“Sheet out”) additional
degreasing should not be necessary. If there is unevenness of the surface wetting,
further degreasing is required.

 Abrade with 180-280 grade wet or dry paper. This will provide a mechanically keyed
surface for maximum adhesion of primer, undercoat or finish. Should the preparation be
by hand it is recommended that a slightly finer grade e.g. 320 – 360 wet or dry paper is
used.

 Remove all sanding residues with a clean airline and sweeping with a clean brush or
broom. Vacuum clean for best results.

 After cleaning away all initial debris and contamination the surface should be carefully
examined. Look for evidence of blistering around door hinges and catches. Look for
breaks in the caulking compound allowing water underneath surfaces, typically found
around windows. Look for cracks in the paintwork or any cathodic action due to dissimilar
metal combinations; typical being screws around hinges and other skin fittings. Examine
the bedding compound around all skin fittings, check for blistering. The foregoing type of
examination may reveal a host of defects usually caused by general wear and tear,
seepage of water through the smallest of void and a host of other reasons. Such surfaces
need re-preparation. If this is the case you should refer to the following section that
outlines the repairing of damaged/blistered surfaces. If, after examination, the surface
remains sound then re-coating can commence.

 If in doubt about the cleanliness of surface preparation wipe down with a reputable “Wipe
Down Solvent” using clean, lint free cloth.

 Immediately prior to application, wipe the surface with a tack rag.

Important note:
A surface that has one or more coats of enamel, enamel primer, or any one-part epoxy or
urethane on should be stripped before re-coating with a 2-component system. Although it is
possible to prime and paint over these coatings that are in good condition, it is not advisable since
the incompatibility of the systems will cause it to fail sooner or later. No Guarantee can be given
for projects undertaken over these types of coatings.

11
Because there is no way to determine the condition of an existing coating system 100%, it is
always advisable to strip off the existing system before repainting the vessel. Under no
circumstances can a guarantee be given for the performance of anything but the new products
being applied as part of the re-coating project. It is also important to note that any deterioration
of the new system caused by a failure of the old system will not be guaranteed

Summary of key points in the preparation of previously antifouled


and immersed surfaces
It needs to be recognised from the outset that antifouling surfaces, even after prolonged
immersion, are toxic and therefore care must be exercised when preparing the surface. Personal
protection must be worn.

There are also environmental considerations. Toxic flakes from detaching antifouling should not
be allowed to contaminate the environment nor should the water from high-pressure fresh water
washing (HPFWW) be allowed to run into harbours and become a pollution hazard. Antifouling
surfaces are different to enamel. To start with they are porous and will possess a leached or
hydrolysed layer, which, if left on the surface and not removed whilst still wet will impair the
subsequent adhesion of the re-coat. It is therefore important that the vessel is thoroughly washed
and cleaned immediately it is clear of the water and the leached layer not allowed to dry which
will subsequently make it difficult to remove. The leached layer, which is actually spent antifouling
that has lost a high proportion of its biocidal activity, will be friable and slightly chalky in colour.
Upon thorough washing the colour of the antifouling will be enriched indicating removal of the
offending layer.

 Remember – even old antifouling surfaces are toxic.

 Personal protection should be worn during preparation.

 Ensure surface is devoid of fouling organisms and the leached layer removed.

 Allow the surface to thoroughly dry.

 Spot prime any bare metal surfaces with the appropriate primer (see antifouling
specifications in this manual).

 Re-antifoul with 2 full coats paying particular attention to the turbulent areas that should
be built up with an additional coat to prevent premature erosion.

12
Surface Repairs
Preparation
The subject of repairs covers a wide variety of situations. Some of the more frequently occurring
examples are covered below.

Coating Failure
When a coating has failed it should be removed back to good material by blasting or disk grinding.
Common coatings failures include:
 Blistering
 Cracking
 Peeling and general delamination
 Cosmetic failure such as loss of gloss or colour
In all these instances it is important to determine the cause of the failure in order to take steps to
prevent recurrence. Contact your International Technical Representative to arrange an inspection.
Once the failed coating has been removed, (in simple cases of loss of gloss, removal would not be
required) the surface should be primed prior to reapplication of base coats and the final finishing
coats. The preparation regime for each primer may vary and is covered in the respective datasheets,
but will typically consist of degreasing followed by abrasion to mechanically key the surface.
All subsequent Primer, Fillers and Finishes should be applied within the specified over-coating
intervals.

Physical Damage to the Coating


If the coating system has been damaged due to an external effect such as impact or abrasion, the
damaged material should be removed back to good material by chiselling, blasting or disk grinding.
As with coatings failure above, once the failed coating has been removed, the surface should be
primed prior to reapplication of the final finishing coats. The preparation regime for each primer may
vary and is covered in the respective datasheets, but will typically consist of degreasing followed by
abrasion to mechanically key the surface.

All subsequent Primer, Fillers and Finishes should be applied within the specified over-coating
intervals.

Structural Repairs
In the event of damage requiring repairs to the structure, such as welding, reshaping or replacement
of sections of the vessel shell, all coatings should be removed in the affected area. Hot work and
‘panel beating’ can cause separation of the coating scheme from the substrate, which may go
unnoticed, and so this should be done prior to the commencement of the structural repair work. Once
the repair is complete the area can be treated as for the appropriate base substrate and the
surrounding coatings as per physical damage above.

13
Application Primers
Although we tend to judge finishes by the accuracy of the profile after filling and degree
of gloss shown in the finish, primers are the key to longevity of the paint system. Limited
attention tends to be paid to this aspect of the paint scheme. The following is a synopsis
of primary primer aspects.

Prior to Initial Priming


Check the condition of the metal substrate meets the required standard regarding quality of blasting
or grinding. Ensure contamination does not exist and that the surface to be coated is not “gingered”
or in the case of aluminium, showing traces of the white corrosion product often evident on exposed
alloy surfaces. Note batch numbers of products to be used and conditions at time of application. (Fill
in the Coating Diary as appropriate). Application of epoxy primers in cold or highly humid conditions is
not recommended and care should be taken to monitor temperature, relative humidity, and most of all
ensure that climatic conditions in conjunction with substrate temperature do not mean that dew point
is fast approaching. Condensing moisture has a detrimental effect on the curing and longevity of
primer systems.

Control of the initial primer application is important. Certain types of holding primers subsequently de-
laminate if applied too thickly. Holding or initial primers are intended to fully coat the blast profile.
Failure to achieve this leads to pinhead corrosion before filler application. If the application is to be by
airless spray and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the primer or the spray equipment, we
recommend that spray trials be carried out. Check the tip size (ideally use reversible tips) and check
the wet end to dry end stroke ratio in order to govern output ratio etc. thus ensuring the correct wet
film thickness (WFT) is applied. Similar checks would apply to other forms of pressurised spray units.

After Initial Priming


It is difficult to get accurate readings of dry film thickness (DFT) off a blast profile so the following
approaches should be adopted:

Calculate the volume of paint for a given area and back-calculate against the actual usage, then giving
the WFT applied (allowing for overspray wastage).
Place steel shims (small pieces of steel) around the vessel, in portholes etc from which thickness
readings can be taken. These are removed for measurement and the area beneath touched in by
brush.
 Check for bare patches of substrate that may need to be touched up prior to filling stages.
This is particularly applicable down the side of welds, inside gangway boxes, window
frames etc. Spot prime if necessary.

Prior to Priming after Filling


Whilst long periods will be spent filling and profiling the vessel the true effect of filling is not noticed
until the first coat of primer is applied. Many applicators prefer a thin coat of primer over the filler
simply to look at the profile and since Interprime 820 has a significant sheen a thin coat of this
product will highlight any inaccuracies in the profile which can then be corrected. Modern epoxy based
fillers have good anti-corrosive properties but this should not detract from the need for thorough
priming since the thickness of filler varies considerably and indeed sand through to substrate on some
areas of the boat is not uncommon. Note batch numbers to be used on the Coating Diary and note
conditions at time of application. Carry out the airless spray or pressure pot checks as noted above.

Priming after Filling


Note the quantity of paint used to allow for calculation of volume vs. area and WFT. Look for any
patches of bare metal or holding primer grinning through where the filler has been sanded heavily and
make good the thickness. It is difficult to measure dry film thickness of primer when yachts are filled
since the filler thickness often appears as centimetres thick against a target dry thickness of between,
say, 125 – 200 microns. Shims placed around the vessel are important guides, which can be removed
14
for measuring purposes. These readings should be compared to the initial WFT readings at the time of
application. Once dried or cured it is advised that you:-
 Check for toughness of the coating and adhesion to the filler using the crosshatch test
(knife and tape).
 Check for pinholes - further filling may be required if they are present.
 Check for orange peel - if excessive, more sanding down is required which will cut down the
thickness of the primer, so check the thickness of the system after sanding.
 Check the overall sheen of the coating - this indicates the smoothness of the application
and the accuracy of the profile.
 Check for any traces of solvent odour. If present, increase the heat and ventilation. This
should remove the final traces of solvent. If not the coating may, in the worst instances of
over application, have to be ground off, the substrate dried and the application begun again.
If in doubt consult your International Technical Representative.

Painting Tanks and other Confined Spaces


The previous section described the sort of activity appropriate to external surfaces, or, in the case of
straight priming, those activities appropriate to the vastness of interiors. Painting tanks and other
confined spaces requires different considerations, which the following section describes. International
have available a wide range of products suitable for tank coatings and specialist-coating materials for
confined spaces. The Interline, Intergard, Intertuf and Intershield ranges are known and
proven the world over.

Tanks Condition – New Building


Prior to the commencement of blasting it is essential that the tanks be clean, dry, and in a condition
suitable for surface preparation and the application of the specified tank coatings. The following
briefly outlines the minimum requirements.
 All grease and oil must be removed from all surfaces
 All hot work in way of tanks should be complete.
 Heating coils (if to be fitted as many vessels yachts don’t have heated tanks) should be
installed.
 After final tank testing, tanks should be fresh water washed and dried especially if they have
been in contact with seawater during the tank testing procedure.
 Defective steelwork, prior to the contract commencement should be repaired prior to
painting. In addition, welding using a basic consumable can result in alkaline deposits
around the weld seam. These deposits could have a detrimental effect on the performance
of the applied coating. Therefore, although the weld seam will be grit blasted, prior to
blasting it is recommended that the pH (alkalinity/acidity reading) around the weld seam be
checked. A simple check is to soak a pH paper with distilled water and pressing it on the
surface, within 8 centimetres of the weld seam, for 30 seconds. If the pH is 9 or greater, it is
recommended that the area is fresh water washed prior to grit blasting.

Heating Coils (if fitted)


Most vessels do not have heating coils in the tanks. However, many conversions, which were originally
commercial vessels, may have heating coils. Heating coils in position during blasting and coating
should be masked with suitable material. Masking, fitted to heating coils before blasting, should be
removed and the coils cleaned prior to coating in order to avoid contamination caused by grit falling
on to freshly applied paint. Coils should be re-wrapped prior to painting. The material used for
masking should be absorbent to ensure that no contamination from flaking paint from masking falls
onto the surfaces beneath.

Ventilation

15
Stripe Coatings
Stripe coating is an essential part of good painting practice. Stripe coatings are to be applied where
possible by low pressure fine tip airless spray or brush. Roller application is not to be used under any
circumstances. Stripe coatings ensure that all edges, welds and any other difficult to coat part receive
sufficient paint in accordance with the film build requirements as detailed in a specification.

Ventilation (during application)


During the blasting operation, ventilation is necessary to allow adequate visibility. Flexible ventilation
trunking should be used to allow the point of extraction to be reasonably close to the blasting
operator.
The ventilation system should be so placed that “dead spaces” do not exist. Ventilation must be
maintained during application and continue whilst solvent is released from the paint film during
drying. Solvent fumes are heavier than air and will collect in the lowest levels of the tank so trunks
must reach all lower areas.
The ventilation system must prevent the vapour concentration exceeding 10% of the lower explosive
limit (LEL) or less if required by local regulations. For solvent containing coatings it is recommended
that during the drying period 10 air changes per hour be maintained. This should be maintained for at
least 48 hrs after the application of the paint system. However during application, to minimise possible
dry spray, a lower level of ventilation may be maintained. Under certain circumstance this can be as
low as 2 air changes per hour. Air changes and paint application rate should be balanced to ensure
that the solvent vapour content is below the 10% Lower Explosion Limit. Equipment must be
electrically safe during the operation and it is essential that it does not re-introduce dust, solvent
vapour etc into the tanks. For this reason, a positive pressure above normal atmospheric pressure
should be maintained inside the tank or confined space.

Ventilation (after application)


Ventilation must continue after application of the paint. This is to ensure that solvent vapours do not
concentrate and become a hazard and secondly to ensure the paint can continue to cure. A solvent
laden atmosphere will prevent the paint from curing and will lead to solvent entrapment.

Potable water tanks for example require thorough cure and solvent release to ensure that no water
taint occurs. When ventilating a tank for use with potable water it should be force ventilated for
typically 10 – 14 days at 23 deg C or until such time as the coating has reached full cure. Ventilation
ducts will require moving around to ensure sufficient ventilation of all areas of the tank.

Upon reaching full cure the tank should before being put into use be filled and flushed 2 or 3 times
with fresh water.

Steel tanks will require to be pin hole checked and details of how this can be carried out can be
obtained from an International Technical Paint Representative.

Dehumidification
Humidity can be a major problem. Dehumidification equipment, when required, must be of adequate
capacity to maintain the condition of the blasted steelwork to the required standard. Additionally, in
order to prevent condensation, the steel temperature should always be at least 3C above the dew
point. Coatings may be applied to surfaces that have been maintained in a dry condition with the steel
temperatures at least 3C above the dew point for more than 1 hour. The surface must be visibly dry
and clean at the time of application. This condition must be maintained until the coating is cured.
Coating tanks and confined spaces must only be under taken in acceptable atmospheric conditions
otherwise adverse effects may occur.

As a guide relative humidity (RH) levels of 40 – 60% give optimum results although for most
materials, application may be carried out between 25 – 85% relative humidity.

16
Heating and Lighting
If heating is necessary it should be by means of a heat exchange system e.g. air admitted to the tank
should not pass directly through a combustion chamber. Temperatures should be maintained for the
duration of the contract from application to cure and provision should be made for 24-hour
surveillance of equipment.

Lighting during the blasting and painting must be electrically safe and provide suitable illumination for
all work. As a guide, lighting may be considered suitable if standard text can be read at a distance of
30 centimetres from the eye. Ideally the lighting should be powerful mains supplied spotlight with
background lighting on at all times in the interests of safety.

Maintenance and Repair of Previously Painted Tanks


Unlike commercial vessels, the tanks of pleasure craft do not carry complex chemical compositions
and are essentially storage for fuel and lubricants, potable water, grey water and sewage. Hence they
generally run for long period without major maintenance or indeed any maintenance at all. However
at some stage in their life tanks will have to be maintained.

Prior to the commencement of re-blasting it is essential that the tanks are clean and dry and must be
suitable for further preparation and coating application. The following briefly out lines the minimum
requirements:-
 Tanks must be cleaned, and in the case of fuel tanks, gas free.
 Any blisters present must be burst and the blister caps removed from the surface.
 Heavy scale must be removed from all surfaces.
 Scale, debris and other residues (oil, grease etc) must be removed from the tanks.
 All hot work in the way of tanks should be complete.
 All tanks should be fresh water washed.
 Any areas of steel renewal should be suitably prepared.

International Coatings has a wide range of primers available, too many to mention in this publication.
Should you require further information regarding primer availability to meet your specific requirements
consult you local International Technical Representative.

17
Application Fillers
The ability to profile large yachts is a key element in the paint processing of any vessel. It is the most
labour intensive feature and often the most difficult. Filling tends to be a wasteful process with as
much as 50% of the material being sanded off, thus presenting a dust hazard both to the operator
and to the final finish unless high standards of cleanliness are observed.

Prior to Filler Application


Standards and control of fillers is of paramount importance. Controlled storage is equally as important
to “paste like” materials as it is to liquid paints. Cold fillers apply badly, are prone to pull on the fairing
battens and are highly susceptible to micro-aeration, resulting in pinholes or worse, larger occlusions
in the film. Fillers should ideally be stored between 15 - 20C (60 - 70F)

The texture of the filler at ambient temperatures has significance to the profile attained. If excess
pressure is needed on the fairing battens then undulations in the profile will occur as the batten
distorts. If the profile is to be accurate when the batten is drawn, the potential to maintain the batten
to a given curve whilst drawing off excess filler is a pre-requisite. In cases of filling straight panels,
the same level of accuracy is required especially where raised filler meets portholes or surrounding
central depressions.

Record the following in the coatings diary:-


 Record batch numbers to be used.
 Check actual weight of fillers to ensure it is within recommended limits.
 Note conditions at time of application.

The mixing exercise, when using “paste like” fillers such as Interfill 830 and Interfill 833 is of
paramount importance, so check both before and after application for evenness of colour. Ensure air
is not incorporated during the mixing process. The entrapment of air in fillers, whilst not necessarily
evident during the new building process, will ultimately become manifest as blisters or craters
(depending on temperature) as air within the void expand and contracts. Since quality fillers are
manufactured under vacuum, and therefore essentially devoid of air at the point of manufacture, the
inclusion of aerated fillers within a paint scheme may well invalidate guarantees. Always check for air
inclusion before application.

All fairing battens and blades should be checked prior to commencing the filling process to ensure
they are clean and have no damaged edges.
are smooth.
Filler Application (Interfill 830 and Interfill 833)
Application techniques vary widely between fairing contractors and a full discussion of the various
approaches would not be possible in the limited space here. Below are some basic pointers for those
approaching this for the first time. For a more detailed discussion, contact your International
Technical Representative.

 Spread mix out on a board to avoid excess heat build-up, and to keep the working life as long
as possible.
 Apply firmly in an even spreading action.
 When fairing a hull, two or three 'cross coats' of Interfill 830, applied before any extensive
sanding work, will ensure the original shape is maintained.
 When hardened, (minimum figure for hardness typically Shore D durometer = 50) sand to
profile with 40-180-grade wet or dry paper.
 Where large areas have been faired, sand with a long-board (minimum length 1 metre) to
achieve the curvature of the hull.
 Scratch marks in the surface of Interfill 830 should be filled with Interfill 833 or
Microsurfacer for those preferring spray filler for the refining process.

18
After Filler Application
Note actual quantity used in the filling process.
Pinholes and occlusions in filler greatly increase the labour content and are a key factor in many of the
delays occurring on larger vessels. Outside of aspects relating to storage, air may be introduced into
the combined components by over-zealous mixing. (see earlier paragraph) That apart, voids of this
nature must be filled, as they will cause defects in the paint system.

It is normal practice to rub down/sand the filled surface with coarse grades of paper e.g 40 – 80
grade wet or dry - this will cause certain voids to become enlarged whilst other smaller holes may
become filled with rubbing debris. It is essential that this be cleaned away before a decision is made
as to the forthcoming procedures to be adopted.

If the profile is reached after rubbing down, the need for finishing filler becomes limited to filling small
pinholes and scratches often evident after rubbing down.

The degree of cure should be measured by using a Shore D hardness tester and the results recorded
in a table or diagram to give a representation of the hardness of filler over the vessel surface.
Sometimes omitted from the contractor’s itinerary is the need to radius all angles. It is poor painting
practice to allow angles to exist where dirt, seawater and possibly cleaning fluids can collect. Corners
should possess a radius.

The foregoing applies primarily to the application of Interfill 830 heavy-duty yet lightweight filler
with good anti-slump and sanding properties. It is envisaged, however, that some refining of the
Interfill 830 will be required. In practice some pinholes and occlusions will occur and the occasional
depression or scratch will be present. Attending to pinholes and occlusions with Interfill 833 will be
ineffective unless good lighting is available. Even with this facility and with a distinctive green colour
making it easy to see against the classic grey of the Interfill 830, it may prove necessary to repeat
the process several times over. As a final check, it is a good idea to roll a thin coat of primer over the
surface to highlight any remaining problems in the knowledge that this coat may be rubbed away.
With all fillers do not mix excessively large amounts as this generates heat (exotherm) that results in
a rapidly solidifying product. Check the data sheets for pot life figures.

Interfill 833 Easily Sandable Finishing Filler


Interfill 833 is smooth to apply, as it incorporates extra fine grade extenders, and cures to an easily
sandable surface. Interfill 833 is ideal for the applicator that prefers using filler battens and blades
during the finish filler process. The green colour of the filler allows for easy visual assessment of the
rectification of fine defects.

Note: Once the sandable time of fillers has been exceeded it should be sanded to promote good
adhesion. Sanded filler may be left for a period up to 3 months before over-coating with further epoxy
filler or with Interprime 8 series. In certain environments, particularly during large temperature and
humidity changes the surface of the filler may be seen to possess a greenish hue or in the case of
Interfill 833 the green colour looses it distinctiveness. Should this occur it is advisable to sand the filler
surface to remove this discoloration even if the 3 months period has not been exceeded.

Interfill 835 & Microsurfacer– Sprayable Fairing Compounds


For the applicator preferring a sprayable fairing compound Microsurfacer is available. Light grey in
colour and easily sandable with good colour differentiation between the sprayable fairing compound
and fillers to aid the applicator. Application should be by conventional spray (pressure pot). Typical
gun settings would be a 1.6 – 1.8mm fluid nozzle with 1.0 – 1.5 bar (15 – 25 psi) on the pressure pot
with an output pressure of 2.5 – 3.0 bar (40-45 psi). Recommended wet film thickness per
application is 800 microns. (Note: excessive wet film thickness of Microsurfacer may lead to
retarded drying and a risk of solvent absorption into sub-coats. Keep to recommended application
thickness). Both products ultimately dry to a smooth finish suitable for sanding with medium grade
wet or dry paper. Up to 4-5% of Epoxy Thinner YTA061 may be added but it is advised that you do
19
not exceed this figure. If any further adjustments to application characteristics are required it is
advised that the output pressure be slightly reduced. This allows for the application of a “wetter”
coating without the risks of increasing over-spray.

Two coats may be applied in certain circumstances when surface irregularities have not been
overcome. However it is stressed that the over-coating times are rigidly observed. Neither products
should be used as ”spot and build” filler. Such use will result in cracking. Additionally it should not be
used over inadequately sanded and prepared fillers as this will inevitably lead to sanding marks
showing in the subsequent finish coat particularly in dark colours.

20
Application Antifoulings

Changes in the Law Regarding Organo-tin base Antifouling


As of 31st December 2002 all organo-tin based antifouling compositions become illegal
and International duly ceased production of Superyacht 800 Antifouling and Superyacht
900 Antifouling. The agreement to replace organo-tin is global and International Coatings
fully supports the work of the IMO and MEPC in securing this treaty. These materials have
been replaced by a new generation of high performance antifouling based on a totally
different technology whilst retaining the self-polishing (SPC) concept previously well
established in tin based compositions. This has ensured that the replacement products
give equal, if not better, performance than their tin based forebears.

Antifouling Compatibility
The compatibility of antifouling is vitally important, so if an antifouling system currently exists on the
vessel, check the compatibility of the new antifouling to be applied. It may be necessary to remove
the current coating or to apply a barrier coat. With most International Antifouling there is a high
probability it will be directly compatible with the existing coating and no barrier coat will be required.
You are advised to consult your local Technical Representative with regards the compatibility aspects.

Prior to Application
The first decision to be made is which of the antifoulings to use to meet the requirements of the
cruising schedule and material from which the vessel is built. Factors to consider are:-
 Service period of 6/12/18/24 months
 Fouling intensity in cruising area
 Aluminium/alloy substrate
 Colour requirement
Having made this study the compatibility of antifouling is vitally important whether you are applying
over a primer, a tie coat or an existing antifouling system. A simple check is to apply a patch of
antifouling over that which already exists be it antifouling, primer or tie coat and if problems such as
cracking are likely to occur they will do so shortly after the antifouling test patch has dried out. If this
does not occur it would usually indicate that the adhesion would be satisfactory but further
examination is desirable. However this is not a 100% foolproof procedure so if you have any doubts
about the compatibility of antifouling compositions consult your local Technical Representative. It may
be necessary to remove the current antifouling or to apply a barrier coat.

If the antifouling is to be spray applied and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the antifouling or
spray equipment we recommend spray trials be carried out prior to actual application. (see paragraph
entitled “Antifouling structure and appearance”). Consult the Product data sheets and the Material
Safety Data Sheets for not only do you require the correct application advice but the protection of the
operator is vitally important.

Note the batch numbers of the antifouling and any associated primers/tie coats to be used and
conditions at the time of application and keep this record in the Coatings Diary.

Antifouling Structure and Appearance


If the antifouling is to be spray applied and the applicator is unfamiliar with either the antifouling or
the spray equipment, we recommend that spray trials be carried out prior to actual application. This is
important when spraying and it may prove necessary to commence setting airless spray units with the
air driven impellor running (if the equipment has this facility) or by priming the wet end pump by
commencing with increased pressure e.g. 2,500 psi prior to reducing for application. Larger ratio
pumps may not require pre-priming in this way.

21
Application of Antifouling
New building: This will be dependent upon yard procedures that could change from yard to yard
with some applying by airless spray whilst other prefer to roller apply antifouling. Consult your
International Technical Representative who by liaison with the Yard Management, will decide what
method of application is to be adopted. Additionally at the new building stage a decision has to be
made as to whether a full antifouling system is applied or whether the vessel will be fitted out afloat.
In this latter case the antifouling choice may vary and a single coat of suitable “fitting out” antifouling
be applied with a view to applying a full antifouling system at a later date either at the new building
yard or some other dry dock after sea trials. Care should be taken to ensure a suitable primer or tie
coat exists on the vessel. In new building situations it is normal practise to apply antifouling over a
suitable tie coat.

Major Refurbishment: Major refurbishment of vessels already in service presents a different


problem and in most cases the antifouling application will be over an existing antifouling system. In
major refurbishment situations, a proportion of the original scheme may well be removed either
during the high-pressure fresh water wash (HPFWW) procedure, or after further inspection, and a
considerable amount of touch primer work may be taking place. Ensure primers are compatible and
take precaution not to overlap some primers. Particularly epoxy based, with the existing antifouling
system as this may result in splitting at a later stage whilst in service. If all the repair work and the
existing antifouling are to be sealed off, ensure the primer/tie coat is compatible. Primocon
(YPA984) is often used for this purpose. The primer surface should be dry and free of all
contaminants (oil, grease, salt etc) and over-coated within the over-coating interval specified for the
primer.

Repair and Upgrading Approved Systems: Quite often because a yacht is changing its cruising
schedule it is desirable to upgrade the antifouling as part of the M&R programme. This may be
somewhat restricted however if considering upgrading systems on aluminium vessels. Obviously you
should degrease the surface and high-pressure fresh water wash (HPFWW 3000psi. 210 bar). Some
touch priming may be prudent in these situations; repair corroded areas with the recommended
protective primer system. Choice of antifouling is important and you are advised to consult your local
Technical Representative in order to decide on an appropriate choice of product since not only the
performance but compatibility is a key consideration.

General Maintenance of Antifouling systems: in most cases a vessel will dock for a re-coat and
upgrading is not a consideration. Most International antifouling are readily re-coatable. However we
do advise that the surface be high pressure fresh water washed (HPFWW) and allowed to dry prior to
recoating. It is worth checking the integrity of the paint system particularly for systems where
antifouling build up may be high. Once coated observe the undocking times.

After Application
Note the quantity of paint actually used. Check the thickness of the coating to ensure required
protection service period would be reached. It is advisable with self-polishing systems to apply
additional antifouling to the high wear (polishing) areas such as the chine’s, waterline, rudder etc to
reduce the depletion of the thickness of the paint system. Check that the dry film thickness (DFT) of
the antifouling in these areas is greater than that on the body of the hull.

Make sure that the maximum immersion time for the product is not exceeded prior to re-launch.
If that time period is exceeded, wet sand thoroughly to remove the surface layer of paint.

22
Application Perfection
Overview Perfection

Perfection is a linear high performance polyester based two pack polyurethane that can be brushed
or sprayed.

Perfection is available in a fixed range of colours in small packs mainly for DIY use but also a larger
pack size for Professional application only. This professional product comes in a 4 litre pack of Snow
White together with its curing agent in a 2 litre size plus a 4 litre Light tint Base for special pastel
shades.
The professional packs have different sales codes as compared to the same product in the DIY range
to allow products to be more easily traced in the system.

Perfection Plus is a two pack clear varnish/glaze coat formulated to be applied over or blended with
Perfection colours to impart a higher depth of gloss and increase the longevity of the system with
respect to retention of colour and gloss especially with the darker colours.

The components of the Perfection system are as follows:

Product Code Colour


YNC007 Perfection Curing Agent (2 litre)
YNC002 Perfection Light Tint Base (4 litre)
YNC004 Perfection Snow White (4 litre)
73015 Procure X-138 Accelerator
YGB001 Perfection Curing Agent
YHA183 Perfection Platinum
YHA184 Perfection Mediterranean White
YHA192 Perfection Off White
YHA198 Perfection Matterhorn White
YHA216 Perfection Royal Blue
YHB000 Perfection Snow White
YHB663 Perfection Jade Mist Green
YHF991 Perfection Mauritius Blue
YHK990 Perfection Flag Blue
YHS299 Perfection Rochelle Red
YHS070 Perfection Cream
YHY999 Perfection Jet Black
YHS056 Perfection Fighting LadyYellow
YVA950 Perfection Plus Base
YVA951 Perfection Plus Curing Agent

The mixing ratio of all Perfection and Perfection Plus products with their respective curing agents
is 2:1 by volume.

23
Perfection Colours and Perfection Plus Glaze Coat – Details and Use

All colours in the Perfection range can be handled in a similar fashion as they have similar
application and curing characteristics. Certain colours, notably bright reds, yellow, green and dark
blues, will require careful application to achieve a uniform colour. These products have been
formulated on lead free pigments for health and safety reasons, and offer a slightly lower degree of
opacity resulting in extra coats being required.

Once the first coat of Perfection (this would normally comprise a half wet coat followed by two full
coats) has fully cured a further coat of Perfection colour may then be applied.

Apply one full coat of Perfection Plus if used as a glaze coat over Perfection Finish. Except if used
over the white, off white or cream colours and then it should be blended 50:50 by volume with the
Perfection Colour for the final coat.
Note that Perfection and Perfection Plus must each be mixed with their respective curing agents
before use.

Accelerator (Procure X-138) details and use

Procure X-138 Accelerator can be used in Perfection and is a highly reactive material that can
substantially reduce the curing times of the product under all conditions. The accelerator must be
used with care and excessive additions avoided.

In Perfection accelerator use should be restricted to when the weather is cool (typically below 15
deg C).

Drying times

The curing/drying times of Perfection is affected by the amount of paint applied, the temperature
and available ventilation. The intervals at which coats are applied when applying wet on wet, has a
significant effect on solvent release and drying.

Perfection passes through various phases during its curing cycle as follows:
 Flow time - the time during which the paint remains very wet and mobile and will flow readily.
This time can be extended by the use of a slower evaporating thinner blend.
 Tacky stage - the stage at which a high proportion of the solvents have left the paint film and
when touched with a finger, paint is removed.
 Tack off stage - the stage at which a fingerprint can be left on the surface but no paint is
removed. This is the usual stage at which during application by spray the next coat is applied. At
this stage the paint film is becoming cross- linked but will blend and flow into the new coat.
 Touch dry - the stage at which no fingerprint are left on the surface, the paint has gelled right
through but is not yet very hard. At this stage cross-linking has increased substantially. Re-
coating at this stage will not result in maximum flow and gloss of the paint film.
 Firm stage - the stage at which moderate pressure does not affect the film.
 After the above stage the paint film progressively becomes harder over a period of time
dependant on curing temperatures, amount of paint applied, and levels of accelerator used.

Where and when to use

Perfection has been formulated to give the ultimate finish under a wide range of conditions. To allow
the product to perform in hot tropical conditions, its natural curing rate has been adjusted for these
conditions. Consequently, under cool conditions the use of the accelerator may be necessary unless
longer drying cycles are not a problem. Remember the ultimate finish is obtained by the slowest cure
of the product that you can accept.

Such conditions where the accelerator may be required are those, for example, where the paint film
will be exposed to dust and dirt before the paint has reached its touch dry time. When the
temperatures/conditions are such that the paint film will be exposed to humid conditions before the

24
paint has reached a satisfactory degree of cure, the use of Procure X-138 Accelerator can prove
invaluable in preventing down glossing.

This is especially important for horizontal surfaces such as decks, cockpit areas, and heavily raked
surfaces such as transoms and cabin sides painted outside.

Remember that when applying the paint the surface temperature will drop in late afternoon. Care
should be exercised that the dew point is not reached. Such conditions lead to deposition of moisture
on the surface followed by a loss of gloss as the paint cures.

How to add accelerator and paint mixing

Choose the level of Procure X-138 Accelerator you require given the environment in which the
Perfection is being applied.

Mix Part A & Part B (curing agent) of the paint together and stir thoroughly. The paint should then be
thinned as required (see section entitled “ Spraying - Viscosity and Thinner use”) to the viscosity
recommended. Stand for 5 minutes to allow gases and entrapped air to escape. The selected level of
Procure X-138 Accelerator should be added and thoroughly stirred in. The paint is now ready for
use.

Pot life

The addition of Procure X-138 Accelerator decreases the pot life (working life) of Perfection.
People’s concept of pot life varies, some even confusing the time to gelation as being the pot life. In
practice, for materials such as Perfection , the pot life of the product is roughly the point at which
viscosity increases to one and a half times the original. I.e. initially at 16 - 20 seconds Zahn #2 and
rising to 24 – 30 secs The product whilst remaining liquid would give a material, which, whilst
sprayable, would normally fail to produce acceptable flow.

Procure X-138 use in Perfection

Below 10°C 10 -15°C 15 -20°C 20 -25° 25-30°C 30°C and


above

Maximum Do not use 2.5 mls 2.5 mls 2.5 mls 2.5 mls No addition
addition per 1L Perfection required
mixed product below 10°C

Note:

 Less accelerator may be used but more is not recommended.


 The above levels will typically reduce dry times and pot lives by at least half and thus
recoat time should be reduced by around the same factor.

Important advice – Effect of moisture

One of the most important factors which influences the final finish obtained with two-component
polyurethane finishes is the presence of moisture. Moisture will "kill" the gloss of a urethane finish if
allowed to come in contact with the surface of the paint before it has cured. This is very important to
remember when painting outside and this should be taken into account when commencing painting.
Remember that as evening draws on, condensation may be formed. If the paint is not going to be
cured before this moisture hits the surface, then either arrange a cover to protect the surfaces,
accelerate the paint, or leave until the weather is safer. If the surface is affected then it will have to
be sanded down and re-coated again.
25
A good rule for two pack polyurethanes is to avoid painting if humidity is above 70% and do not apply
when humidity is 85% or higher.

No definitive time period for the sensitivity of the paint to moisture can be given due to the large
number of variables involved. It is wise however, to allow at least twice the quoted firm dry times of
the product before allowing surfaces to be moistened.

It is also important to avoid moisture contamination of the paint when applying and it is therefore
important to ensure you have good working moisture traps on all airlines, placed so that air entering
the spray gun is dry. Moist air may lead to surface defects such as cissing and diminished gloss in the
cured film.

Film build

Avoid the temptation to apply excessive film thickness in any one session as heavy films may lead to
solvent entrapment resulting in soft films and the possibility of solvent blistering at any time in the
future.

Do not re-apply further paint until the previously applied product feels hard.

The main area where this has been a problem is on horizontal surfaces like decks where the paint can
be applied very heavily without worries of runs and sags. When first applied the finish looks good but
as the paint cures the film remains softer than it should. This can result in loss of gloss, loss of
adhesion and a high degree of sensitivity to moisture leading to blistering especially behind squabs etc
around cockpit seating areas.

Prior to finish application

The Project/Quality Manager should insist on trial applications of both undercoat and finish coatings.
The trials should be organised well in advance (at the priming stages) in readiness for the final
application.

This is important to ensure that the application team is familiar with the gun settings that will achieve
the best result. International Technical Representatives can be called upon to attend these trials and
provide advice if required.
Before any application takes place ensure the surface is thoroughly clean and all rubbing debris
removed. There are as many methods for cleaning the surface as there are days in the week.
The use of tack rags can help achieve the required level of cleanliness. What must be stressed
however is the level of cleanliness required to achieve quality finishes and the thoroughness required
in the preparation process. Tack rags vary considerably from one manufacturer to another and only
those containing minimum levels of tackiness and which have been specifically manufactured for use
with 2 part polyurethanes should be used. International can offer Tack Rags (Part No 073009)
that are suited for use with two pack paints. Care should be exercised as some tack rags can leave
behind a deposit leading to cissing and cratering.
Solvent wipe down may be used but again care must be exercised that the solvent used does not
affect the underlying surface leading to striations showing through the newly applied paint.
International Antifouling Thinners #3 has been found to work very well on cured and sanded
primers and undercoats.
During the cleaning process, wash down solvent or water must not be allowed to dry on the surface.
Residues must be removed using dry paper wipes. Even the most minute deposit of sanding residue
remaining on the surface can impair the finish by leaving the most unsightly striations evident in the
surface of the dried Perfection. This is most noticeable in dark colours.
If water wash down is employed the surface must be allowed to dry thoroughly otherwise humidity
blisters may form under the cured finish. Care must be taken that no water is trapped behind masking
paper etc that can then at a later stage run down the newly applied wet paint

26
Perfection Application (Solvent use, viscosity & spraying)

Spray gun model, its set up with air cap and fluid nozzle, and viscosity goes hand in hand. Ignore one
facet and optimum results will not be achieved. Individual applicators have their own application
technique usually based upon experience from spraying large areas on the one hand and intricate
shaped objects on the other. Whatever the shape and size all go to make up a superyacht application
challenge and if the resultant application is to the desired standard no one method will become an
industry standard. Spray techniques noticeably vary, with the American technique one of a more
deliberate and somewhat closer approach than the European technique of more free movement
further away from the object surface. Australian/New Zealand applications tend to be a mix of both
methods. To be properly adjusted paint has to accommodate all methods hence International has a
range of thinners to accommodate both temperature and application technique variables.

Thinners for Spray Application of Perfection

Thinner Sales Code Description

Polyurethane YTA064 Standard Thinner


Spraying Thinner
#10
Polyurethane YTA006 Retarder Thinner
Retarder Thinner
#9

The following table gives suggested methods of application. These are suggestions based on trial
applications during product development. As with all applications on site it is advisable to undertake
trial applications in the conditions that prevail before spray application to the vessel.

10 - 18°C 16 - 22°C 20 - 28°C 28°C+

Thinners type YTA064 YTA064 YTA064 YTA064/YTA006

Suggested 14 - 18 seconds ZAHN 4 viscosity cup


viscosity approximately 45% - 65% thinning depending on ambient
temperature.

Type of first Medium wet or half coat with even coverage


coat to apply
Time to No paint removal with light finger touch
overcoat
Second & Full coat
Third coats
Time to No paint removal with light finger touch
overcoat

It is always better practice to use a Zahn 4 viscosity cup measurement to determine viscosity; this
ensures the best flow out.
The key to total performance is controlled solvent release. Whatever blend is used it must evaporate
out of the paint film at a suitable rate to allow the product to flow (level out). Good ventilation and a
dry environment are essential for maximum solvent release. Poor ventilation and damp atmospheres

27
may generate dull hazy finishes. Additionally if the material does not flow to an orange peel free finish
this is an indication that one of the parameters for curing is incorrect. Measuring the viscosity is a
prime starting point. While the chart gives suggested percentage solvent additions the true check is
the viscosity at a given temperature. A typical spray viscosity for Perfection is 14 - 18 seconds Zahn
4.

Viscosity Conversions for Perfection

Sometimes a Zahn cup is not available to measure the viscosity of a paint but other similar flow cups
are. As other types of flow cups are slightly different in size the times measured will be different and
hence a conversion chart is required to convert those times back to Zahn times.

Ford No 4 BS B4 DIN 4 Zahn #2

14 14

15 16

14 15 17

14 16 16 19

15 24 16 20

19 25 18 22

22 30 20 27

27 34 23 34

30 40 26 41

36 47 30 49

Spraying Equipment

When spraying Perfection it is important to use good quality equipment with a good source of clean,
dry air available in sufficient volumes for the job in hand.
There are numerous gun set-ups that will provide an excellent finish.
The important aspect of spraying these types of products is to obtain complete atomisation of the
paint. Setting the paint and gun up ready to paint and flicking the gun across a small area quickly,
with the trigger pulled, can check this. Examination of the sprayed pattern should reveal a very fine
deposition of paint composed of very, very fine droplets. If the droplets are not fine and tend to be
larger, then complete atomisation has not occurred and the gun set-up should be altered.

28
Suggested spray gun set up for Perfection applications

Binks Bullows BBR


Air cap AS 17
Fluid tip AO 61
Air pressure 60 – 65 PSI / 4.1 - 4.4 bar
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4
Devilbiss JGA 700
Air cap No 30
Fluid tip AV 15FF
Air pressure 60 – 65 PSI / 4.1 - 4.4 bar
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4
Devilbiss JGA Series (Gravity Feed) (Suction Feed)
Air cap 704 (765 at 18°C) 43
Fluid tip 1.4mm 1.4mm
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4
Air pressure 60 PSI / 4.1 bar 60 PSI / 4.1 bar
Devilbiss KB3 (Pressure Pot System)
Air cap 767, 777 or 797
Fluid tip 1.1mm
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4
Air pressure 60 PSI / 4.1 bar
Pot pressure 7 - 10 PSI / 0.5 bar
DeVilbiss Gti (Suction feed) (Pressure Pot System)
Air cap 110 110 or 122
Fluid tip 1.3mm 1.0 or 1.1mm
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4
Air pressure 30 PSI / 2.0 bar 30 PSI / 2.0 bar
Pot pressure Not applicable 7 -10 PSI / 0.5 bar - 0.6 bar
DeVilbiss GFV (Gravity feed)
Air cap No 30 or 43
Fluid tip 1.1 - 1.4 mm
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4
Air pressure 45 – 55 PSI / 3.0 - 3.7 bar
Sata Jet NR95 (Gravity Feed) No.90 (Gravity Feed)
Air cap 50518 50153
Fluid tip 1.3mm 1.5mm
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4
Air pressure 45 PSI / 3.0 bar 67 PSI / 4.5 bar

29
Conventional Spray 2QT Pressure Pot Siphon Cup Gravity Feed
Tip size 0.040 - 0.048” 0.070” 0.040 - 0.070”
Pot Pressure ** 6 - 10 psi NA NA
Output Pressure 50 - 60 psi 40 - 50 psi 45 - 55 psi
HVLP 2QT Pressure Pot Siphon Cup Gravity Feed
Tip size 0.030 - 0.046” NA 0.040 - 0.070”
Pot Pressure ** 4 - 6 psi NA NA
Output Pressure 40 - 50 psi NA 45 - 55 psi
Binks Bullows
Gun: 2001
Pressure pot: Tip: 63A* or 63B Needle: 563A Air Cap: 63PB* or 63PW
Siphon cup: Tip: 66 Needle: 565 Air Cap: 66SD
Gun: 95
Pressure pot: Tip: 63A* or 63B Needle: 663A Air Cap: 63PB* or 63PW
Siphon cup: Tip: 66 Needle: 665 Air Cap: 66SD
Gun: 95G
Gravity feed: Tip: 65 or 66 Needle: 865 Air Cap: 66SD
Gun: Mach 1 HVLP
Pressure pot: Tip: 91 or 92 Needle: 54-4382 Air Cap: 95P
DeVilbiss JGA510
Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-FX Needle: JGA-402-FX Air Cap: AV-1239-704
Siphon cup: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-30

DeVilbiss JGA 700


Air Cap No.30
Fluid Tip AV15FF
Air Pressure 4.0 – 4.4 bar (60 – 65 psi)
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

De Vilbiss JGA Gravity Feed Suction Feed


series
Air Cap 704 or 765 at 18°C No.43
Fluid Tip 1.4 mm 1.4 mm
Air Pressure 4.0 bar (60 psi) 4.0 bar (60 psi)
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

DeVilbiss KB3 Pressure pot system


Air Cap 767, 777 or 797

Fluid Tip 1.1 mm


Air Pressure 4.0 bar ( 60 psi)
Pot pressure 0.5 – 0.7 bar (7 – 10 psi)
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

30
DeVilbiss Gti Suction feed Pressure pot system
Air Cap 110 110 or 112
Fluid Tip 1.3 mm 1.0 or 1.1 mm
Air Pressure 2.0 bar (30 psi) 2.0 bar (30 psi)
Pot pressure Not applicable 0.5 – 0.7 bar (7 – 10 psi)

Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

De Vilbiss GFV Gravity feed


Air cap No.30 or No.43
Fluid tip 1.1 –1.4 mm
Air pressure 3.0 – 3.7 bar (45 – 55 psi)
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4

Sata Jet NR 95 Gravity feed NR 90 Gravity Feed


Air cap 50518 50153

Fluid tip 1.3 mm 1.5 mm


Air Pressure 3.0 bar (45 psi) 4.5 bar (67 psi)
Viscosity 15 seconds DIN 4 15 seconds DIN 4

Pots and Cups: The pressure pot and siphon cups are not critical so long as they are of good quality
and in good condition. The “new” Binks Bullows model 80-350 2qt pot, which is a small version of
the 2 gallon pot, is extremely easy to clean and subsequently very reliable. The DeVilbiss KB525 pot
is excellent if fitted with the new “check valve paint eliminator cap” on the underside of the lid. The
Sharpe “No Drip” siphon cup is inexpensive and serves admirably for small marine applications.
Although there are other guns and tip/needle/air cap combinations for the application of these
materials, the above recommendations have been proven to give the best and most consistent results
under a wide range of conditions.

Note: The Binks Bullows models 62 and 18 would use the same tips and air caps as the 2001, but
the needle will vary based on the model (consult your Binks Bullows supplier for a recommendation).
The DeVilbiss JGA 502 would use the same tips, needles, and air caps as the 510.

Application of Perfection by Brush/Rolle


Application of Perfection by Brush/Roller
Perfection by Brush/Roller
Whether painting with polyurethane and epoxy for the first time, or having the experience from the
professional ranks as applicators, there are still some golden rules that need following. Not least of all
considering our personal protection, then considering how much surface preparation is required
before finally moving on to applying primer, possibly some filler, undercoat and Perfection finish.
As Perfection has such excellent brush application properties this article describes the application of
a full system by brush and roller

When fibreglass boats require painting it is usually because they have been in service for a while and
there will be the inevitable scratches and gouges in a gelcoat looking rather sad, lacking in gloss and
somewhat faded. The same could be said of aged paint systems on other substrates such as steel or
aluminium where mechanical damage as well as UV degradation leaves them requiring maintenance.
Having removed fittings, lettering etc always remember to degrease the surface with a suitable
degreaser and a Scotchbrite pad thus removing traces of wax, oil and dirt before starting. It will also
be contaminated with traces of adhesive left behind from self-adhesive lettering. Sand the surface

31
with 220-grade paper using an orbital sander or even by hand in areas that could not be reached with
the sander. Remove the sanding debris and wipe clean with a suitable Wipe Down Solvent such as
International Antifouling Thinners #3 (YTA085).

Fill any scratches or gouges that have been well sanded with Interfill 830 Filler (YAA867)and/or
Interfill 833 (YAA813) epoxy filler having first ensured sanding debris has been removed from
within the scratches or other damaged areas. If debris has not been removed adhesion of the filler
will be impaired. Whilst filling check the surface very carefully for pinholes which are quite common in
the gelcoat surface of aged fibreglass hulls, these too should be filled or they will show as defects
once the finishing coats of Perfection are applied. A slight overfill is recommended. Once the filler is
cured it should be sanded smooth with 120-grade paper. Remove the sanding debris and the boat is
ready to prime.

Application of Interprotect

Commence painting from a point where the overlap will not show for example down the stem or at
the corner of the transom. Some professionals tend to treat the transom as a separate entity
particularly if it is a square and not rounded junction to the hull. Apply an even coat of Interprotect
(YPA401) with a roller and lightly tip off the surface with a brush to remove the stippled texture that
results from roller application. Do not apply too thickly to avoid sags or runs and remember that the
primer coat is really one to seal a surface that has become slightly porous with aging as well as
providing a foundation for application of finish. Allow to cure checking the Product Datasheet for the
recommended overcoating time at the temperature at which you are working and at which the
product will cure. Intermediate sanding between coats can be carried out with typically 120 – 220
grade paper. If you can, recoat within the stated recoat period to avoid having to sand between each
coat. Sanding can then be employed between coats mainly to remove any large dust or debris.

Once cured the primer should be sanded with 220 - 320 grade paper to produce a smooth surface.
Remove the sanding debris and give the surface a final wipe down with a suitable Wipe Down
Solvent such as International Antifouling Thinners #3 (YTA085). Then 1 -2 coats of
Perfection Undercoat (YRA003) should be applied. Perfection Undercoat (YRA003) should be
mixed 3:1 by volume and allowed to stand for 20 minutes to allow bubbles to disperse. Application
should be very much as for the finish coat as detailed on the following pages. The undercoat will as it
cures shrink back and many application marks will reduce in size. Once cured, sand the Perfection
Undercoat (YRA003) with 320 – 400 grade paper. Remove sanding debris. This should leave a
surface suitable for the application of the Perfection finish.

Use of a sanding guide product such as the ready to use product International Sanding Guide
Coat (YMA180) enables easy visual sanding of primers and undercoats and ensures that no sanding
marks are left in the final undercoat to print through into the final finish.

Application of Perfection by Brush/Roller

Having prepared the undercoat surface it is ready for application of the finishing coats of Perfection.
Pick a good time of the day to start. Don’t paint in direct sunlight as this give a heated substrate that
in turn will reduce the wet edge time of the product. Also avoid painting in the evening, as
condensation on the surface of the finish will cause it to down gloss. The ideal time is in the morning
after the dew has left the surface. If painting outside it is a good idea to construct a tent over the
boat using a suitable tarpaulin. Arrange it to ensure that the sun is kept off the surface before, during
and for the first hour or so after painting to ensure maximum flow of the product.

Do not paint if there is a wind or breeze blowing across the surface as the wet edge will be reduced
and addition of retarder solvent may not suffice to keep a suitably long wet edge. On decks and other
horizontal surfaces where there may be many details to cut in around, work ahead slightly by cutting
in the various objects using retarder solvent added so that by the time you reach those areas with the
infill painting they will still flow into the main application. Do not try and paint large areas by yourself.
If using brushes for the main application change them frequently and have the unused brush rinsed in
retarder solvent to free the bristles up.

32
Mix the components in the ratio 2:1 (2 volumes of base and 1 volume of curing agent) and stir
thoroughly. It is then critical to leave the paint standing for at least 20 minutes before starting to
use it. This allows the chemical reaction to start, allows gas and bubbles to disperse and helps
produce a paint with less tendency to sag and run.

Apply the product by roller generously and then tip off lightly with a brush ALWAYS in a vertical
direction.

Even if painting a small horizontal stripe apply the paint horizontally and then go back and tip off
vertically. It might seem wrong but the brush marks will flow out sideways and you will end up with a
sag free finish. Brushed horizontally the paint can form into ridges with the high ones creeping down
slowly forming runs.

Always have some International Retarder Thinners No. 9 (YTA006) to hand in case the product
needs thinning slightly but only add it if the temperature is high and the brush/roller feels as if it is
dragging on the surface. Certainly there should not be a need to add more than 10% by volume and
it is advised to add small percentages at a time to make the necessary adjustments.

Roll an even coat over a convenient area, not too large, so that the wet edge time is retained, and tip
off gently with a quality brush in a vertical direction. When applying dark colours by roller well wet
the roller and apply with an up and down stroke. If the coverage seems very poor wet the roller again
and repeat over the same area and do not press too hard. You will find that this virtual double coating
deposits more paint which will cover better.

If applying by brush try and flow the paint on and again do not try and stretch coverage out.
Perfection requires a good film build of paint to enable it to flow and stretch during the curing cycle
which then results in a very high gloss film. Do not try and roll the paint out as far as you can
otherwise the paint film will be too thin and will not flow.

For tipping off purposes it is recommended that a fine burred ended or chiselled bristle brush made of
China bristle or badger hair be used. Choose a size that is comfortable to handle and allow the brush
to glide over the surface holding it at an angle of about 45º. It is preferable when doing this to have
two operators, one attending to rolling and the other tipping off. Once tipped off you may find some
bubbles that require even lighter tipping off using almost no pressure on the surface at all. Work
quickly and once the finish looks okay leave well alone. After a short period the coating will level out
to a classic full gloss finish.

Some operators, particularly those in the professional sector prefer to brush throughout and not use a
roller at all. Or it could be that small complex areas are such that even when using brush/roller
techniques the roller cannot access the area to be painted. Brush apply in broad diagonal strokes,
cross spread in horizontal strokes before tipping of in a vertical direction. The multiple direction
approach produces an even distribution of paint and at the same time removes bubbles and brush
marks to give a smooth gloss finish.

For most colours two coats of finish will suffice but occasionally with certain shades it may prove
necessary to apply a third coat. Consult the product datasheet for over-coating times. Second and
third coats should be applied exactly the same as the first. With the darker colours blending the finish
coat and the undercoat 50/50 as a final undercoat will go some way to giving an easier colour to
overcoat compared to white.

It is recommended that equipment be cleaned in International Retarder Thinners No. 9


(YTA006). Some items such as tray liners and foam rollers are disposable items that will not be
cleaned. Ensure these are disposed of according to local waste disposal laws and practises.

International can supply 180mm special foam rollers and 100mm wide brushes suitable for application
of Perfection.

33
Detailing and chemicals

The chemistry of Perfection provides a resin rich layer at the surface of the paint during the cure
cycle and it is this layer that adds to the exterior exposure performance of the product.
Depending on how much of this clear layer is removed during detailing, exterior exposure
performance in relation to gloss retention may be affected to various degrees.

It is realised that at times the finish will be spoilt by dust and dirt and that some detailing of the paint
will be required and so any detailing work should be carried out with the above factors in mind.

With the Perfection chemistry there is virtually no after flow when cutting and polishing procedures
are used and so such procedures as used commonly with Acrylic Polyurethanes are not recommended.

Note that acid or alkaline based materials allowed to remain in contact with Perfection may lead to
blooming and discolouration of the surface especially with darker colours where such effects are more
obvious.

Some sunscreen products especially those based on “Nano’ technology can have a serious degrading
effect on polyurethane paints and anyone using such materials should studiously avoid touching any
paint work.

Perfection tinted Product

Perfection tinted colours are produced by using volumetric tinting dispensing machines.

As with the supply of any colour product made to order, like wallpaper or clothing fabric the customer
must ensure they purchase sufficient material of the same batch on the same day for the complete
job, to avoid possible colour variations.
Paint should then, regardless of how purchased be boxed prior to use.

One standard procedure is to mix the first can with its hardener and commence using half of that unit.
Half the next unit should then be intermixed with the first half left. That way any possible shade
variation is virtually eliminated. Another way is to box all the paint into a 20-litre pail, mix well and
put back into the original cans.

It should also be noted that different applicators applying the same paint out of the same container
might achieve slight colour variations due to subtle differences in their application techniques w.r.t.
film builds and applied “wetness”.

Tinted paint is not permanently stable and any remains left over will drift slightly in colour, certainly
within 6 months and possibly even less with some colours, and will therefore not necessarily match
the original paint if used as touch up sometime in the future.

Remember also that if re-painting or touching up an aged finish, product produced to the same
original formula will not match the job due to the inevitable variations that occur between tinters and
bases plus the subtle minute changes that can occur to the exposed colour over time.

If the original colour has been detailed at any time this may also induce subtle colour changes.

34
General information for primers associated with Perfection

Interprime 820 High Performance Epoxy Primer

Interprime 820 is a high performance epoxy primer for use above and below the waterline. It offers
excellent anticorrosive protection and is, therefore, strongly recommended for use on steel and
aluminium substrates that require protection that lasts. Superb adhesion to metal makes it ideal for
use as a holding primer prior to application of the full paint scheme. Can be over-coated with itself
after 8hrs (at 23ºC/70ºF) and with Interfill Epoxy Fillers after 24hrs (at 23ºC/70ºF).
With an extended maximum over-coating time, Interprime 820 is the ultimate choice for larger
projects where the metal needs to be protected whilst fitting is being carried out. Where a topcoat
system is required, Interprime 820 should be sanded prior to application of the undercoat in order to
achieve the optimal finish.

Interprime 820 should only be thinned when necessary with one of YTA 910, 920 or 925 thinner
blend. Use of other thinners such as Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061)can result in a reduced speed of
cure of the product together with solvent entrapment. Such problems become more likely as film
builds increase to the recommended maximum wet film builds.

Interprime 820 is suitable for both roller (multiple coat application) and spray application. The
YTA061 Epoxy thinners allows spray application in both temperate and tropical conditions.
Available in white and (by special order) tinted to a light grey for over-coating identification. Also
suitable for use on GRP/fibreglass, epoxy and rigid wood constructions.

Interprotect Epoxy Primer

Interprotect is a general purpose high performance epoxy primer used for various purposes and can
be used as a primer on most substrates. It is especially suitable for priming GRP/fibreglass, epoxy and
rigid wood construction and is also ideal for priming metal surfaces.

Interprotect due to its good sanding properties is also used as a sacrificial sanding primer usually after
application of the filling and fairing stages and before further priming either with itself or with
Interprime 820.

Interprotect may be applied by brush and roller but multiple coats will be required to achieve the
required dry film builds.

For large project work or where heavy filling and fairing is to be carried out Interprime 820 does
offer advantages when priming metal surfaces.

Intergard 263

Intergard 263 is an epoxy tie coat used prior to applying antifouling. It has extended overcoat times
with antifoulings (days rather than hours) and is a useful product where time constraints do not allow
immediate application of antifouling to the last coat of epoxy primer applied. It is usually used over
Interprime 820 (YPA828) and Interprotect (YPA401).

Perfection Undercoat

A very high performance polyurethane undercoat designed for use with Perfection
It has good covering power and flows out to a smooth semi-gloss finish. It offers excellent sanding
and excellent hold out of gloss of all finish coats. Applies by brush or roller to a smooth finish.

To accelerate the cure rate in cold conditions Procure X-138 accelerator can be added at a
maximum level of 2.5 mls per mixed litre. This will reduce dry times and pot lives by at least a half.

35
Perfection Undercoat may be used as a non yellowing interior white finish where a reduced gloss
finish is required.

YRA600 Undercoat

A high performance polyurethane undercoat designed for use with Perfection. It has a faster rate of
cure, offers excellent sanding properties and good hold out of gloss of all finish coats.

Not easily applied by brush or roller due to its low viscosity and fast set up times it is intended mainly
for spray application only. Its fast cure rate is achieved without the need for accelerators.

Suggested spray gun set up for Interprime 820

Conventional 2QT Pressure Siphon Cup Gravity Feed


Spray: Pot
Tip Size 0.070 - 0.086” NA 0.070 - 0.086”
Pot Pressure ** 10 - 15 psi NA NA
Output Pressure 50 - 60 psi NA 45 - 55 psi
HVLP: 2QT Pressure Siphon Cup Gravity Feed
Pot
Tip Size 0.070” NA NA
Pot Pressure ** 8 -10 psi NA NA
Output Pressure 50 psi NA 45 - 55 psi
Airless spray:

Binks Bullows
Gun: 2001
Pressure pot: Tip: 66SS Needle: 565 Air Cap: 66SK
Gun: 95
Pressure pot: Tip: 66 Needle: 665 Air Cap: 66SK
Gun: 95G
Gravity feed: Tip: 65 or 66 Needle: 865 Air Cap: 66SK
Gun: Mach 1 HVLP
Pressure pot: Tip: 97 Needle: 54-4382 Air Cap: 97P
DeVilbiss JGA-510
Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-
30

36
Suggested spray gun set up for Interfill 835/Microsurfacer

Conventional Spray 2QT Pressure Siphon Cup Gravity Feed


Pot
Tip Size 0.070 - 0.110 NA NA
Pot Pressure ** 15 – 20 psi NA NA
Output Pressure 40 – 50 psi NA NA
DeVilbiss 558
Tip Size 1.8 - 2.5 mm
Pot Pressure 1.0 bar
Output Pressure 3.0 bar
Airless spray: Interfill 835/Microsurfacer should not be applied by
airless spray
Binks Bullows
Gun: 2001
Pressure pot: Tip: 66,67,68SS Needle: Air Cap: 67PB,68PB
565,567,568
Gun: 95
Pressure pot: Tip: 66,67,68SS Needle: Air Cap: 67PB, 68PB
665,667,668
DeVilbiss
Gun: JGA-510
Pressure pot: Tip: AV-650-EX Needle: JGA-402-EX Air Cap: MB-4039-
30

Pots and Cups: The pressure pot and siphon cups are not critical so long as they are of good quality
and in good condition. The Binks Bullows model 80-350 2qt pot, which is a small version of the 2
gallon pot, is extremely easy to clean and subsequently very reliable. The DeVilbiss KB525 pot is
excellent if fitted with the new “check valve paint eliminator cap” on the underside of the lid. The
Sharpe “No Drip” siphon cup is inexpensive and serves admirably for small marine applications.
Although there are other guns and tip/needle/air cap combinations for the application of these
materials, the above recommendations have been proven to give the best and most consistent results
under a wide range of conditions. Contact International for recommendations if you require further
information.

Note: The Binks Bullows models 62 and 18 would use the same tips and air caps as the 2001, but
the needle will vary based on the model (consult your Binks Bullows supplier for a recommendation).
The DeVilbiss JGA 502 would use the same tips, needles, and air caps as the 510.

37
Pressure Drops in Air Lines

Inner Operating Drop in pressure in bar/psi at a line length


line pressure
dia in Bar Psi 5 metre (16 ft) 10 metre (32 ft) 15 metre (49 ft)
mm
bar psi bar Psi bar Psi
6mm 3 45 0.7 10.5 1.2 17.4 1.8 26.1
4 60 1.0 14.5 1.6 23.2 2.2 31.9
5 75 1.3 18.85 1.9 27.55 2.5 36.25
6 90 1.5 21.75 2.2 31.9 2.8 40.6
9mm 3 45 0.23 3.34 0.38 5.51 0.60 8.85
4 60 0.30 4.93 0.55 7.98 0.81 11.75
5 75 0.43 6.24 0.63 9.14 0.92 13.34
6 90 0.60 8.70 0.80 11.60 1.10 15.95

Because of the considerable drop in air pressure we recommend the use of air lines with an inner
diameter of 9 mm. With lines of more than 10 metre length (32 ft) or high air requirement we
recommend an inner diameter of 13 mm. To control the operating pressure a compressor air
micrometer with a pressure gauge should be used on the spray gun.

Note the quantity of paint actually used. This will allow for a theoretical calculation of paint film
thickness to be calculated.

Thickness readings can be taken off the undercoat, but not the final finish coat as this would leave
marks, so place steel shims around the vessel to measure thickness of the final coat. Observe the
gloss and profile of the final coatings.

38
Precautions Health & Safety
All of the products sold by International for use in the Interspray coatings system contain chemical
compounds that can damage the health of someone using them without the proper safety equipment.
Adequate protection from any product only comes from inhibiting the ingestion of these chemicals,
whether it is through the mouth, lungs, skin, or mucous membranes.

One of the more obvious rules is to never drink or eat any of these products in their cured or uncured
states.
THESE PRODUCTS ARE FOR PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN

The best protection against breathing the evaporating solvents or atomised paint, particularly
isocyanate containing paints such as polyurethane base-coats and finishes, is a Positive Pressure
Fresh Air System (Air fed Hood) with a full face mask to protect against inhalation through the
mucous membranes, ingestion and contact with the eyes.

To protect against absorption through the skin, wear disposable paint suits with hoods, apply suitable
barrier cream to hands and face, and wear gloves and masks whenever you are exposed to any of
these products. Never clean paint or epoxy off your skin with solvents. There are many excellent hand
cleaners on the market.

If at any time you experience dizziness, nausea, dullness, numbness, feel intoxicated, or have
difficulty breathing during the application of these products or shortly thereafter, consult a doctor
immediately and if possible show him the MSDS sheets of the products that you were exposed to.
Material Safety Data Sheets are available by calling your local International Technical
Representative.

Most of the materials listed in this Application Guide contain solvents that can ignite and burn or
explode in the presence of a flame or spark. Never smoke near an open or closed can of paint.

OVERALLS: An overall is essential to protect clothes and skin from paint, dust and other materials
commonly encountered. It should be washed regularly to avoid build-up of these materials.

SAFETY HELMET: Essential for head protection. Objects can be accidentally dropped from vessels
into dock. A chinstrap will prevent the helmet from being knocked or blown off.

SAFETY SHOES: Water and oil resistant boots or shoes are needed – preferably with protected
toecaps.

GLOVES: Heavy-duty gloves should be worn when required but especially when handling paint to
avoid skin contact.

MASK: A facemask with renewable filter cartridges is very useful when spraying or blasting is carried
out. It prevents inhalation of dust. The filters should be renewed regularly. There are many types
available but all should be to an approved standard. Filters are available for fumes and dust and the
correct type should be chosen depending on the conditions of use.

GOGGLES: Safety spectacles to avoid eye contact with paint or paint dust are sometimes required.

EAR PROTECTORS: Sometimes required when working in continuous noises; e.g. near compressors.

39
Paint Storage and Shelf Life
Supplies

Examination upon Delivery


Paint supplies to site should be examined on delivery to ensure:
 The correct materials have been supplied;
 The correct quantities are present;
 All batch numbers should be noted down for the records.
With 2-component paints, the quantity of base and curing agents should be checked, and it should be
confirmed that the curing agents supplied are those that are stipulated for use with the base.
Wastage can be reduced if an adequate supply of small packs, instead of 20 litre kits, are available for
touch-up work or stripe coats of tanks and patch painting where temporary protection of freshly
blasted steel is required.
Good housekeeping is advisable as work proceeds to ensure mistakes in mixing etc. do not occur.
Different types of paint, curing agent, thinners etc. should be segregated into discrete piles to enable
a rapid assessment of stocks to be made. Hold-ups through lack of paint are never welcome.

Paint Storage
Paint should be stored in cool, dry places. If it is stored under a hot sun, it can heat up considerably
and affect its spray properties.
At the new building stage, paint can usually be stored under satisfactory conditions.
A weekly check of the paint could prevent delays on the job.

Shelf Life
All products have shelf lives and these should be taken as a guide to their usability. A moisture
sensitive material may be unusable if its shelf life is exceeded whereas other materials may be
satisfactory. All shelf lives refer to storage in cool, dry conditions and paint stored in extremes of
temperature should always be inspected prior to use. If the shelf life has been exceeded and the
paint, after inspection, appears unusable, it should not be used and the appropriate people should be
informed.

40
COATINGS
DIARY
The following Coatings Diary page is an example of a diary page that should be filled in on a regular
basis as a record of all paint application on any boat big or small.

It also presents a record for future years should the same boat come back for repairs or repaint.

The requirement to keep records these days, with many companies achieving ISO certification levels is
such that we now state:

Any complaints/claim presented to this company will not be considered unless this
completed form is attached.

Copies of this page are freely available if required from your International paint representative or by
contacting our customer service department.

41
COATINGS DIARY

PROJECT: ______________________________________

CLIENT: _____________________________________ AREA: ______________________

PAINTER: _______________________________________

INSPECTOR: ____________________________________ DATE: ______________________

REFERENCE DOCUMENTS: ________________________

Specification Req'd DFT SP


Substrate Coat 1 Coat 2 Coat 3 Coat 4

Date / Time

Conditions

CLIMATE % RH

DATA Air Temperature

Dew Point

Surface Temp

Paint: YES / NO

Date / Time

SURFACE Cleanliness

PREPARATION Profile / Sanding

Date / Time

Product

Batch No. A

PAINT / Batch No. B

APPLICATION Thinning %

Thinning Product

Volume Litres

Induction Time

Recoat Time Min/Max

W.F.T.

Date / Time

Number

Min

COATING D.F.T Max

INSPECTION Average

Std Dev

Appearance

Pass / Fail / Repair

42
Aluminium Steel Above waterline surface
GRP preparation and
Epoxy Timber application guidelines.
Old 2 pack paint
The following system is a sample specification that shows a typical high performance system
for use on all substrates. It shows how alternative products may be used at various stages
and shows how various steps can be left out if not required.
Due to the wide variation in possible combinations we suggest you contact an
International representative for specifications tailored to your exact requirements.

Step Procedure Product choice New Previously


Surface painted
surface in
good
condition
1 Substrate Suitable liquid detergent Required Required
preparation and/or Antifouling Thinner
#3
2 Surface clean up Antifouling Thinner #3 Required Required
3 Surface Priming Interprime 820 or Required Optional if
(Interprotect for non not filling
metallic surfaces)
4 Filling & Fairing Interfill 830 or HT9000 Optional Optional
4 Finishing Filler Interfill 833 Optional Optional

4 Sprayable Filler Microsurfacer Optional Optional

5 Priming Interprime 820 or Required Optional


Interprotect
6 Undercoating Perfection Undercoat or Required Required
YRA600 Undercoat
7 Finishing Perfection Required Required

(Step 1) Surface Preparation


Aluminium
1. Prior to grit blasting or disc grinding the aluminium it is imperative to remove all grease, oil,
dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter with a suitable liquid detergent before wiping down with
Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

2. Either grit-blast with an appropriate blast media, or disc grind the surface with 36 grit abrasive
discs to a uniform 50-75 micron (2-3 mils) profile, clean, bright metal surface.

43
(Step 1) Surface Preparation
Steel
1. Prior to grit blasting or disc grinding the steel, it is imperative to remove all grease, oil, dirt,
mildew, or other foreign matter with a suitable liquid detergent before wiping down with
Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

2. Either grit-blast to a clean, Near White Metal Blast (AS1627.4 Class 2.5) with an appropriate
blast media, or disc grind the surface with 36 grit abrasive discs to a uniform 50-75 micron
profile, clean, bright metal surface (AS1627.2 Class 3).

(Step 1) Surface Preparation


GRP/Epoxy Composite
1. Degrease the surface with a suitable liquid detergent.

2. Remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter by wiping down with Antifouling
Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

3. Abrade the surface with 180-grit.

(Step 1) Surface Preparation


Timber
1. The wood surface must be clean, dry, and sound. Never paint over green, oily, wet, or rotten
wood.

2. Abrading the surface may require different grades of paper depending on timber types. In some
instances up to 80 grit paper may be required to clean the timber and obtain a sound surface.

(Step 1) Surface Preparation


Old Polyurethane Paint
1. Wash surface with a suitable liquid detergent.

2. Remove all grease, oil, dirt, mildew, or other foreign matter by wiping down with Antifouling
Thinners # 3 (YTA085) using the “two cloth method”.

3. Abrade the surface with 120 – 180 grit paper to remove the gloss from the existing finish.
Preparation
(Step 2 ) Surface Clean Up for all substrates

1. Remove all blasting or sanding/disking residues preferably with an industrial vacuum cleaner.

2. On non-metallic surfaces wipe down with Antifouling Thinners # 3 (YTA085) just prior to
priming.

3. Apply the Interprime 820 (YPA828) within 3-4 hours of abrading the steel or aluminium
making sure the surface remains clean and dry (no condensation or dew) during that time. For
GRP, timber and old polyurethane surfaces the Interprime 820 can be applied at any interval
provided the surface is kept clean.

44
(Step 3) Surface Priming
Option 1 for any substrate.
Interprime 820 Epoxy Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA828) or Grey Base (YPA829)
with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. Reduce Interprime 820 (YPA828) 15 - 20% by volume with Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061)
for conventional spray application, and apply one coat at 140 microns WFT (65 microns DFT). If
applying by airless spray reduction is normally not required.

Note: It is not necessary to abrade Interprime 820 prior to the application of the fairing
compounds unless the maximum overcoat time is exceeded. If you find you are in danger of
exceeding the re-coat window, just apply another coat of Interprime 820 within 6 months
(3 months at 35C+) of the initial application, and you will renew your re-coat window. For
overcoating times and preparation see the Interprime 820 Product Data Sheet.

(Step 3) Surface Priming


Option 2 for non- metallic surfaces.
Interprotect Epoxy Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. At one coat of Interprotect (YPA401) at typically 120 microns WFT (50 microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using
minimum quantities of appropriate reducer Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061).

4. When cured sand with 60/80 grade if filling and fairing or 120/180 if applying more primer or
undercoat.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing


Option 1
Interfill 830 &/or Interfill 833 &/or Microsurfacer
1. Thoroughly mix (1) one part by volume Interfill 830 Base (YAA867) with (1) one part by
volume Curing Agent (YAA869).

2. Apply Interfill 830 (YAA867) using a screed or fairing batten and spread over the surface to
a maximum of 2.0cm per coat (approximately 1 inch) Sand with 60/80 grade paper to ensure a
good physical key for subsequent coats.

3. After finishing sanding for fairing, remove all sanding residues.

Note: For best void free application restrict each screed application to no more than around 5-6mm.

Interfill 833 Epoxy Finishing Compound.

1. Thoroughly mix (1) one part by volume Base (YAA813) with (1) one part by volume Curing
Agent (YAA815) and apply immediately.

2. Apply the fairing compound using a screed and working well into the surface to fill pinholes, air
bubbles and sand scratches etc (Maximum thickness of 3mm). Sand with 60/80 grade paper to
ensure a good physical key for subsequent coats.

3. After sanding, remove all sanding residues prior to applying more filler or primer.
45
Microsurfacer

1. For Microsurfacer mix (6) six parts by volume Base (YAA875) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YAA376).

2. If thinning is required for the Microsurfacer (YAA875) then add up to 5% Epoxy Thinners
#7 (YTA061).

3. Apply (1) one full coat by conventional spray at 800 microns WFT maximum to give 500
microns DFT. Note: these products are not suitable for airless spray application and should not
be applied at thickness’ exceeding those recommended.

4. Can be applied directly over Interfill 830 (YAA867) observing the recommended over-
coating times.

Note: Microsurfacer should not be used as a means of attempting to overcome inadequate sanding
and preparation of Interfill 830. This practice could lead to amplification of sanding marks
particularly in dark colours. It could also lead to over application of Microsurfacer.

5. When cured sand with 120/180 grade paper before overcoating.

6. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

7. A second coat of Microsurfacer (YAA875/YAA376) may be applied if required observing


the over coating intervals recommended (see Microsurfacer product data sheets).

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing


Option 2
HT9000 Epoxy Fairing Compound &/or Microsurfacer
1. Thoroughly mix the appropriate quantities of HT9000 Part A (YAA909), HT9000 Part B
(YAA910), HT330 (YXA330) and HT110 (YXA110) until uniform.

2. Apply using a screed or fairing batten and spread over the surface to a maximum of 2.0cm per
coat (approximately 1 inch) Sand with 60/80-grade paper to ensure a good physical key for
subsequent coats.

3. After finishing sanding for fairing, remove all sanding residues.

Note: For best void free application restrict each screed application to no more than around 5–6 mm

Microsurfacer.

1. For Microsurfacer mix (6) six parts by volume Base (YAA875) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YAA376).

2. If thinning is required add up to 5% Epoxy Thinners #7 (YTA061).

3. Apply (1) one full coat by conventional spray at 800 microns WFT maximum to give 500
microns DFT. Note: these products are not suitable for airless spray application and should not
be applied at thickness’ exceeding those recommended.

Note: Microsurfacer should not be used as a means of attempting to overcome inadequate sanding
and preparation of the HT9000 Fairing mix. This practice could lead to amplification of
sanding marks particularly in dark colours. It could also lead to over application of
Microsurfacer.

4. When cured sand with 120/180 grade paper before overcoating.

46
5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

6. A second coat of Microsurfacer (YAA875/YAA376) may be applied if required observing the


overcoating intervals recommended (see Microsurfacer product data sheets).

(Step 5) Priming
Option 1
Interprime 820 Epoxy Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA828) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. After the filling and profiling operation is complete a full coat of Interprime 820 (YPA828)
should be applied at 275 microns WFT (125 microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using
minimum quantities of Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061). Multiple coats may be required to
achieve correct film builds.

4. When cured sand with 120 -180 grade paper before overcoating.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 5) Priming
Option 2
Interprotect Epoxy Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. At least one full coat of Interprotect (YPA401) should be applied at 305 microns WFT (125
microns DFT).

3. For airless spray no reduction is normally required. For conventional spray reduce using
minimum quantities of appropriate reducer Epoxy Thinner #7 (YTA061). Multiple coats may
be required to achieve correct film builds.

4. When cured sand with 120 - 180 grade paper before overcoating.

5. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.

(Step 6) Undercoating
Option 1
Perfection Undercoat
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Base (YRA003) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YGA006).

2. Reduce 25-35% with the appropriate thinner (YTA910 10 – 23ºC YTA920 23 – 35ºC to 14 –
20 seconds DIN 4) and apply at 100 microns WFT (50 microns DFT).

47
3. Accelerate to shorten drying times if required by adding a maximum of 2.5 mls per mixed litre
of Procure X-138 Accelerator (073015).

4. After adequate curing time (see Perfection Undercoat Product Data Sheet) abrade with
320 – 400 grit paper.

5. Remove sanding residue.

6. Apply a further coat at 100 microns WFT (50 microns DFT) and when cured abrade with
320/400 grade paper. Remove sanding residue in preparation for the application of Perfection
finishing coat.

(Step 6) Undercoating
Option 2
YRA600 Undercoat

1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Base (YRA600) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YGA006).

2. Reduce 20-30% with Polyurethane Spraying Thinners (YTA064).

3. Apply a coat at 106 microns WFT (48 microns DFT)

4. After adequate curing time (see YRA600 Undercoat Product Data Sheet) abrade with 320
– 400 grit paper.

5. Remove sanding residue.

6. Apply a further coat at 106 microns WFT (48 microns DFT) and when cured abrade with
320/400 grade paper. Remove sanding residue in preparation for the application of Perfection
finishing coat.

(Step 7) Finishing
Perfection

1. Thoroughly mix (2) two parts by volume Perfection Base with (1) one part by volume
Perfection Hardener.

2. Reduce the topcoat to 14 - 15 seconds DIN 4 = 14 - 16 second Zahn #2 for all applications
using appropriate YTA Series Thinner.

3. Accelerate as required with minimum level of Procure X-138 Accelerator (73015).

4. Apply a minimum of three coats wet on tacky.

5. An option at this stage is to apply the Perfection by brush and/or roller if desired following the
details as described earlier.
Note:
 Perfection should be applied to achieve a minimum DFT of 75 microns
 If Perfection Plus is to be used this should be taken into account before applying
the last coat of product in case blending is required due to the choice of colour.
 If recoating Perfection with itself sand to remove gloss using 320/400 grade
paper.

48
49
New With or without Filler
substrates
For refurbishment of existing antifouling paint
below please refer to page 20.
waterline
Step Procedure Product choice New Surface
1 Substrate Suitable liquid detergent, Antifouling Thinner #3 Required
preparation
2 Surface clean up Antifouling Thinner #3 Required
3 Surface priming Interprime 820 or (Interprotect for non metallic Optional if not
surfaces) filling.
4 Filling and Fairing As for above waterline spec on previous pages Optional

5 Priming Interprime 820 or Interprotect Required

6 Tie coating Intergard 263 Required if


Interprime 820
used. Strongly
recommended if
Interprotect used.
7 Antifouling Antifouling as chosen Required

(Step 1) Surface Preparation


Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 2) Surface Clean up


Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 3) Surface Priming


Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 4) Filling and Fairing


Refer to appropriate above waterline specifications for details.

(Step 5) Priming
Option 1
Interprime 820 High Performance Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume Interprime 820 White Base (YPA828) or Grey
Base (YPA829) with (1) one part by volume Curing Agent (YPA824).

2. Apply (2) two coats of Interprime 820 (YPA828) to 275 microns WFT (125 microns DFT) per
coat resulting in a total dry film build of 250 microns. If applying by airless spray reduction is
normally not required.

50
(Step 5) Priming
Option 2
Interprotect Epoxy Primer
1. Thoroughly mix (3) three parts by volume White Base (YPA401) with (1) one part by volume
Curing Agent (YPA402).

2. Apply (2) two coats of Interprotect (YPA401) at 305 microns WFT (125 microns DFT) per
coat resulting in a total dry film build of 250 microns. If applying by airless spray reduction is
normally not required.

Important Note:
If a tie coat is not to be applied over the Interprotect (YPA401) the antifouling MUST be
applied well within the stipulated antifouling overcoat period otherwise adhesion problems may be
encountered. Use of Intergard 263 tie coat is strongly recommended to avoid such problems,
especially with high performance antifoulings.

(Step 6) Tie Coating


Intergard 263
1. Thoroughly mix (4) four parts by volume of Intergard 263 Base (FAJ034) with (1) one part
by volume Curing Agent (FAA262).

2. Apply (1) one coat at 175 microns WFT (100 microns DFT).

(Step 7) Antifouling
As required

1. Apply chosen antifouling within the maximum recoat period of the tie coat used. If this time
period is exceeded apply a further coat of the tie-coat.

51
Painting Control Guidelines
Project
This section is intended as guidance for most situations applicable to Project Management. However,
it needs to be realised that guidance notes cannot cover all situations and at times the experience of
the Project Manage and Technical Support will be required for specific issues.

Nominating the Project Manager

A Project Manager should be appointed by the boatyard to cover the project – for new building or
M&R. Ideally this nomination should take place as early as possible in the project so that there is one
main contact to deal with. Details of the vessel and the nominated Project Manager should be notified
to International Paints. International will appoint a Technical Representative whose role will be that of
an advisor.

The Role of the Project Manager

The Project Manager usually serves the mutual interest of the yard plus the paint contractor, unlike
the Owners Representative whose prime interest is matters relating to the owners.

The Project Manager has the job of co-ordinating activities and, as a major point of attention,
ensuring the specification is adhered to and carried out.

The Project Manager is usually a practical person, who, in case of doubt, gives or seeks crucial advice
in taking the final decision.

The Project Manager is a key communicator with all parties, making sure that work is progressed in a
manner that services the interest of the boatyard.

The Project Manager, when necessary, should arrange meetings with the Technical Representative to
cover any aspects related to advice in respect of paint application or specifications and other paint
related subjects where advice is needed.

The Role of the Technical Representative

The Technical Representative is an employee of the Paint Company as a paint expert, in a position to
interpret the tolerances as laid down in the specification and data sheets and to offer advice
accordingly.

The Technical Representative is a technical resource for the Project Manager and can be asked to
comment on whether or not preparation or application meets the specification.
There is no Project Management or Supervision function for the Technical Representative and no
power to approve or reject work.

The Technical Representative is well versed in instrumentation and will advise the Project Manager of
those instruments and methods best suited to obtain meaningful measurements and results.

The Technical Representative is knowledgeable of preparation standards and will advise the Project
Manager accordingly.

The Technical Representative has a sound knowledge of application equipment and its’ prime
function, identification of faults etc.

The Technical Representative will visit the project periodically and be in close liaison with the Project
Manager and on occasions with other interested parties although it is acknowledged that the Project
Manager is the prime contact.

52
Stages of Project Control

Once the Project Manger/Controller is nominated, he/she is totally responsible for that project and
should ensure that the following points are covered:

 Gather as much information as possible on the specification and all contacts involved with the
paint supplier. The Technical Representative is obviously the key contact.
 Understand the supply chain and finalise the product requirements.
 Discuss and agree on the product delivery.
 Discuss with the International Technical Representative the support requirements for the
project.
 Establish with the boatyard/applicators the programme of work to be undertaken.
 Agree the work programme.
 Ensure all administration forms are in supply –e.g. coating diary, technical exception report,
inspections report form, etc – for the project and that they are appropriately completed.
 Check that the inspection equipment that will be required for the project is available.
 Ensure that the applicator understands the products and if necessary arrange trials on panels
prior to commencing the job.

Requesting a Paint Specification

Before requesting a specification, it is advisable to gather as much information as possible on the


project and discuss with the Paint Company.

If possible finalise the product specification well before the project commences. All parties must
understand and agree on the specification.

The Paint Company must approve any changes to, or deviation from the specification.

During construction there may be a sequence of events that is not acceptable to one of the parties.
These should be recorded in an "Exception Report".

Planning the Work Programme

A programme of work should be agreed with owner’s representatives, contractors and yard personnel
to ensure that delays are minimal and all interested parties know their responsibilities.

It is often useful to have the contractor and yard foremen, involved with the co-ordination of the
work, attend these meetings as management personnel are sometimes not in day-to-day contact with
the project and lines of communication can get crossed.

The details and dates of the work programme should be sent to the Paint Company who should also
be kept informed of the progress.

A daily record should be kept, and a brief summary each month of a new-buildings progress is very
much appreciated by the project manager of the vessel.

It is important to agree any inspection times if a Technical Representative from the Paint Company is
required.

Personal Health and Safety

Boat building and yacht repairing can be a hazardous environment in which to work. The Project
Controller must be fully aware of the precautions that need to be taken and of the safety equipment
that should be worn by staff and visitors.

OVERALLS: An overall is essential to protect clothes and skin from paint, dust and other materials
commonly encountered. It should be washed regularly to avoid build-up of these materials.

53
SAFETY HELMET: Essential for head protection. Objects can be accidentally dropped from vessels
into dock. A chinstrap will prevent the helmet from being knocked or blown off.
SAFETY SHOES: Water and oil resistant boots or shoes are needed – preferably with protected
toecaps.
GLOVES: Heavy-duty gloves should be worn when required but especially when handling paint to
avoid skin contact.
MASK: A facemask with renewable filter cartridges is very useful when spraying or blasting is carried
out. It prevents inhalation of dust. The filters should be renewed regularly. There are many types
available but all should be to an approved standard. Filters are available for fumes and dust and the
correct type should be chosen depending on the conditions of use.
GOGGLES: Safety spectacles to avoid eye contact with paint or paint dust are sometimes required.
EAR PROTECTORS: Sometimes required when working in continuous noises; e.g. near compressors.

Paint Supplies, Storage and Shelf Life

Paint supplies to site should be examined on delivery to ensure:


 The correct materials have been supplied;
 The correct quantities are present;
 All batch numbers should be noted down for the records.
With two-pack paints, the quantity of base and curing agent should be checked, and it should be
confirmed that the curing agents supplied are those that are stipulated for use with the base.
Wastage can be reduced if adequate supplies of small packs, instead of 20 litre drums, are available
for touch-up work or stripe coats of tanks and patch painting where temporary protection of freshly
blasted steel is required.

Good housekeeping is advisable as work proceeds to ensure mistakes in mixing, etc., do not occur.
Different types of paint, curing agent, thinners, etc., should be segregated into discreet piles to enable
a rapid assessment of stocks to be made. Hold-ups through lack of paint are never welcome.
Paint should be stored in cool, dry places. If stored under a hot sun it can heat up considerably and
affect its spray properties. A tarpaulin draped over the drums will not prevent the paint from heating
up and the need to thin. At new building, paint can usually be stored under satisfactory conditions.
A weekly check of the paint could prevent delays on the job.

All products have shelf lives and these should be taken as a guide to their usability. A moisture-
sensitive material may be unusable if its shelf life is exceeded, whereas other materials may be
satisfactory. All shelf lives refer to storage in cool, dry conditions and paint stored in extremes of
temperature should always be inspected prior to use. If the shelf life has been exceeded and the
paint, after inspection, appears unusable, it should not be used and the appropriate people should be
informed.

Surface Preparation

Steel
Surface preparation invariably involves blasting to a minimum of Sa. 2½. Prior to blasting:
 Steelwork should be degreased and weld splatter removed.
 Weld seams and sharp edges should be ground down to prevent too thin coatings being
applied.
 The profile achieved will depend on the abrasive used, the air pressure and the blasting
technique. Inadequate profile = insufficient mechanical key. Excessive profile = uneven
coverage of sharp peaks.
 All debris must be removed by vacuum cleaning prior to painting.
 Compare the blast profile to the standard photograph for colour of steel.
 Measure the mean apparent amplitude (MAA) using the surface profile gauge making sure the
steel is not shadowed, contaminated or containing embedded grit.

Aluminium
Before any other preparation commences, the surface must be thoroughly degreased.

54
Following degreasing, the surface can be grit blasted, prepared by abrasive disking or treated with an
etch primer to ensure thorough removal of the oxidised surface layer.
Measure the mean apparent amplitude using the surface profile gauge.

Wood

Bare wood should be checked for wet rot, gribble or teredo worm, signs of reaction with metals,
cracking, flexible wood allowing water penetration.
All bare wood should be sanded down by either hand or mechanical methods and then all traces of
sanding dust must be removed as this will impair adhesion and produce a “bitty” finish.
With oily woods, such as teak, swab the surface with a strong solvent and wipe down with lint-free
cloths followed by sanding. A coat of suitable varnish will be required.
An average "dry" piece of timber contains about 14-18% moisture. Any excessive variation from this
will cause problems.

GRP

Firstly, the "release" agent used to allow the removal of the hull from the mould must be thoroughly
removed.

The gelcoat should be checked for:


Pinholes – if present these will need to be filled prior to painting.
Star crazes – very difficult to detect and sometimes only show up after the first coat of paint has been
applied. They need to be chiselled out and filled.
Blisters – this may mean moisture content, so the hull should be checked for osmosis by using a
moisture meter. If osmosis is present the gelcoat will need to be removed and an osmosis treatment
scheme applied.

Priming

Initial Priming

Prior to application:
Note batch numbers of products to be used.
Note conditions at time of application and fill out Daily Coatings Diary.
For application by airless spray, carry out spray trials first to check that the correct film builds can be
suitably applied.

After application:
It is difficult to get accurate readings off a blast profile so the following approaches should be
adopted:
Calculate the volume of paint for a given area and back-calculate against actual usage, then giving the
WFT spread.
Place steel shims (small pieces of steel) around the vessel in portholes, etc., from which thickness
readings can be taken. These are removed for measurement and the area beneath touched in by
brush.
Check for bare patches of substrate that may need to be touched up prior to filling stages.

Further Priming Coats after Filling

Prior to application:
Note batch numbers to be used.
Note conditions at time of application.
Carry out airless spray checks.

After application:
Note quantity of paint used – work out volume versus area and WFT.
Look for patches of bare metal holding primer grinning through and make good the thickness.
55
Check for toughness of the coatings and adhesion to the filler using the crosshatch test (knife & tape).
Check for pinholes – further filling may be required if they are present.
Check for orange peel – if excessive, more sanding down is required which will cut down the thickness
of the primer, so re-check the thickness of the system after sanding.
Check the overall sheen of the coating – this indicates the smoothness of the application and the
accuracy of the profile.
Check for any traces of solvent odour. Step up the heat and ventilation to see if that clears it and if
not the coating will have to be ground off; dry the substrate and start again.
Carry out spot measurements of the dry film thickness’ of the overall system.

Fillers

The ability to profile large yachts is a key element in the paint processing of a superyacht. It is the
most labour-intensive feature and often the most misunderstood. Filling tends to be a wasteful
process with as much as 50% of the material being rubbed off. This presents a dust hazard both to
the operator and to the final finish unless high standards of hygiene are observed.

Prior to application:
Standards and control of fillers are of paramount importance. Controlled storage is equally as
important to pastes as it is to liquid paints. Cold fillers apply badly, are prone to pull on the fairing
battens and are highly susceptible to micro-aeration resulting in pin-holing, or worse – larger
occlusions in the film.
The texture of the filler at ambient temperatures has significance to the profile attained. If excess
pressure is needed on battens then undulations in the profile will occur. If profile is to be accurate at
the time when the batten is drawn, the potential to maintain the batten to a given radius whilst
drawing off the excess filler is a prerequisite. In cases of filling straight panels, the same level of
accuracy is required where raised filler meets portholes.
Check batch numbers to be used and record.
Check actual weight of fillers to ensure it is within recommended limits.
Note conditions at time of application.
The mixing exercise is of paramount importance so check both before and after application for un-
dispersed agglomerates.
Decisions as to whether any post curing of the filler will be required will need to be thought out in
advance to allow for tenting/heating etc and also to avoid conflict with other work being carried out.

After application:
Note actual quantity used in the filling process.
Pinholes and occlusions in filler greatly increase the labour content and are a key factor in many of the
delays occurring on larger vessels. Outside of aspects relating to storage, air may be induced into the
combined components by over-zealous mixing. That apart, voids of this nature need to be filled as
they may cause the system to blister if the vessel is going to be operating in warm climates.
It is normal practice to rub down the filled surface with coarse grades of paper – this will cause
certain voids to become enlarged whilst other smaller holes may become filled with rubbing debris. It
is essential that this is cleaned away before a decision is made as to forthcoming procedures to be
adopted.
If the profile is reached after rubbing down, then the need for a finishing filler will be removed and
the requirement will change to that of filling pinholes and the scratches evident after rubbing down.
Attending to pinholes will be ineffective unless good lighting is available and even with this facility it
may prove necessary to repeat the process several times over. As a final check it is a good idea to
roll a thin coat of primer over the surface to highlight any remaining problems in the knowledge that
this coat may be rubbed away.
Degree of cure should be measured by Shore D Hardness Tester and tabulated.
Radius all angles. It is poor painting practice to allow angles to exist where dirt, seawater and
possibly cleaning fluids can collect. Corners should be an unobtrusive radius.

56
Finishing

Prior to application:
The Project Manager/Controller must be pedantic about trial applications of both undercoat and finish
coatings. The trials should be organised well in advance (at the priming stages) in readiness for the
final application.
Items to be checked include nozzle size, air pressure, fluid pressure, air cap size, seals, etc.
Ensure all guns are at the same settings and operate in the same fashion – work out how many
passes with the gun are recommended to ensure a consistent finish and thickness.
After mixing, check the viscosity using viscosity cups.
Note the batch numbers of products to be used.
Note conditions at the time of application.
Allowance should also be made for cleaning the vessel. This work should be pre-arranged at the
stage of setting the work programme. The whole vessel should be washed and dusted down and re-
masked prior to paint application.
Consideration will need to be given to ensuring a good dust free environment together with good
lighting and staging to enable the topcoats to be applied to a high level of finish. Forced air extraction
and tenting may also be required if conditions in the general factory are below a satisfactory level of
cleanliness.

After application:
Note the quantity of paint actually used.
Thickness readings can be taken off the undercoat but not the final finish coat as this would leave
marks. Place steel shims around the vessel to measure thickness of the final coat.
Observe the gloss and profile of the final coatings.

Antifouling

Prior to application:
Compatibility of antifouling is vitally important. If an antifouling system currently exists on the vessel,
check the compatibility of the new antifouling to be applied – it may be necessary to remove the
current coating or apply a barrier coat.
If the antifouling is to be spray applied, carry out spray trials prior to actual application.
Note batch numbers to be used.
Note conditions at the time of application.

After application:
Note quantity of paint actually used.
Check thickness of coating to ensure required protection service period is reached.

Signing Off a Project

Towards the end of a project the yard will normally call an Acceptance Meeting to be attended by:
 Contractor
 Skipper of yacht
 Owner's Representative
 Project Manager of the yard
 Managing Director of the yard

All sign a final protocol to say that the job is completed.

The Coating Diary and other reports issued by the Project Controller should be copied to the yard,
contractor and Paint Company.

57
Chart 1 HT9000 Filling and Fairing weight-mixing table.
For use with the new 321 HT9000 product. (YAA909/YAA910)

Final Mixed
Resin grams Hardener grams HT110 grams HT330 grams
Volume in Litres
366 104 6 131 1
733 208 12 262 2
1100 312 17 394 3
1466 416 23 525 4
1833 520 29 656 5
2199 624 35 787 6
2566 728 41 918 7
2932 832 46 1050 8
3299 936 52 1181 9
3666 1040 58 1312 10
5498 1559 87 1968 15
7331 2079 116 2624 20
9165 2599 145 3280 25
10998 3119 174 3936 30
12830 3639 203 4592 35
14663 4159 232 5248 40
16495 4678 261 5904 45
18328 5198 290 6560 50

1. The above weights are for guidance purposes only and may require to be varied for different
applications.

2. It is suggested that samples from each mix are placed on tin lids and noted where they are
being used on the vessel. Then the next day each mix can be checked to ensure it has
developed its correct hardness. Those that are suspect are easily located and the area can be
reinstated as required.

3. All mixes used on one viewable area should be the same to avoid differences in thermal
expansion resulting in unsightly print thru problems.

4. Fillers should also be finish sanded with at least 80 grit papers (no coarser) to avoid print thru
of the sanding marks.

58
Chart 2
Thinning and Volume Solids Calculator

ORIGINAL VOLUME PERCENTAGE OF THINNER ADDED TO PAINT


SOLIDS OF PAINT
5% 10% 15% 20% 25% 33% 50%
15% 14 13.6 13 12.5 12 11 10
20% 19 18 17 16.7 16 15 13
25% 24 23 22 21 20 19 17
30% 29 27 26 25 24 23 20
35% 33 32 30 29 28 26 23
40% 38 36 35 33 32 30 27
45% 43 41 39 37 36 34 30
50% 48 45 43 42 40 38 33
55% 52 50 48 46 44 41 37
60% 57 55 52 50 48 45 40
65% 62 59 56 54 52 49 43
70% 67 64 61 58 56 53 47
75% 71 68 65 62 60 56 50
80% 76 73 70 67 64 60 53
85% 81 77 74 71 68 64 57
90% 86 82 78 75 72 68 60
95% 90 86 83 79 76 71 63
100% 95 91 87 83 80 75 67

Volume Solids Before Thinning


Volume Solids after Thinning % =
100 + Percentage of Thinner Added

Use this chart to calculate the new volume solids of your paint mix after
thinning by a certain percentage.

59
Chart 3
Wet/Dry Film Builds Versus Volume Solids.

WET FILM THICKNESS REQUIRED TO ACHIEVE DRY FILM THICKNESS AT STATED VOLUME
SOLIDS

DRY FILM THICKNESS


VOLUME (MICRONS)
SOLIDS
25 50 75 100 125 150 200 250 300 500 1000

10% 250 500


15% 166 334 500
20% 125 250 375 500
25% 100 200 300 400 500
30% 83 167 250 333 417 500
35% 72 143 214 286 357 429 571
40% 62.5 125 187 250 312 375 500
45% 55 111 167 222 278 333 444 555
50% 50 100 150 200 250 300 400 500
55% 45 91 136 182 227 273 364 454
60% 42 83 125 167 208 250 333 417 500
65% 38 77 115 154 192 231 308 385 461 770
70% 36 71 107 143 178 214 286 357 428 714
75% 33 67 100 133 167 200 267 333 400 667
80% 31 62 94 125 156 187 250 312 375 625
85% 29 59 88 118 147 176 235 294 353 588
90% 28 56 83 111 139 167 222 278 333 555 1111
95% 26 53 79 105 132 158 210 236 316 526 1052
100% 25 50 75 100 125 150 200 250 300 500 1000

Dry Film Thickness x 100


Wet Film Thickness =
Volume Solids %

Use this chart to calculate required wet film builds to apply to achieve
required dry film build stated in specification.

60
Chart 4
Useful Conversion Factors.

Volume

1 US gallon = 3.785 litres


1 Quart = 0.946 litres (946 mls)
1 Pint = 0.473 litres (473 mls)

I Quart = 2 Pints (1US Quart = 2 US Pints)


4 Quarts = 1 Gallon (4 US Quarts = 1 US Gallon)
8 Pints = 1 Gallon (8 US Pints = 1 US Gallon)

1 pound per 1 US gallon = 0.11983 kilos per litre

Areas/Coverage

1 sq meter = 10.763 sq feet

Multiply sq feet/US gallon by 0.0245 to get sqm/litre


ie 300sq feet/US gallon equals 300 x 0.0245 = 7.35 sqm/litre
OR
Divide Sqft/US gallon by 40 and that will give roughly sqm/litre
ie 300 divided by 40 = 7.5

Thickness
One mil = one thou
One mil = 25 microns
1000 microns = 1 mm
1 litre of any paint or filler applied to 1 sq meter will cover that area to depth of 1mm whilst it is wet.

Temperature
95 deg F = 35 deg C
77deg F = 25 deg C
50 deg F = 10 deg C

Weight and Liquid Weight

1oz (1 ounce) = 28.35 grams


1 fluid oz = 28.4 mls
35 fluid oz = 1 litre approx.

Pressure
1 BAR = approx 14.5 psi
1Kg/cm2 = 14.4 psi

61
Data Associated Products
Perfection (High Performance Polyurethane Finish) YH series/YGB001 (small packs)

Perfection (High Performance Polyurethane Finish) Large pack: 4 litre Snow White

YNC004, 4 litre Light base YNC002, 2 litre Part B YNC007.

Perfection Plus (High Performance Polyurethane Glaze Coat) YVA950/YVA951

Perfection Undercoat (Polyurethane Undercoat) YRA003/YGA006

YRA600 Undercoat (Polyurethane Undercoat) YRA600/YGB601

Interprime 820 (High Performance Epoxy Primer) YPA828/YPA829/YPA828

Interprotect (Epoxy Primer also used as a tie coat below w/l) YPA401/YPA402

Intergard 263 (Epoxy Primer Tie Coat) FAJ034/FAA262

Reaction Lacquer Gloss (YOB000) or Semi-Gloss (YFB000)

Primocon (YPA984)

Interfill 830 (Epoxy Filler) YAA867/YAA869

Interfill 833 (Epoxy Filler for finer filling) YAA813/YAA815

HT9000, HT330, HT110 (Epoxy Fairing Filler Components) YAA909 RESIN

YAA910 STANDARD HARDENER/YAA911 FAST HARDENER/YAA912 SLOW HARDENER

Microsurfacer YAA875/YAA376

Thinners YTA 006, 064, 061

Antifouling Thinners YTA085 (Used as a surface wipe down solvent)

Procure X-138 Accelerator (Part No 073015)

Sanding Guide Coat YMA180 (Ready to use product)

Brush YXA915 (High quality 4 inch brush for application of products such as Perfection)

Foam Roller YXA914 (For application of Perfection and other International products)

Tack Rags (Part No 073009)

62
Specifications Quick reference spec

Aluminium, Steel, GRP, Epoxy Composite or Timber


Topsides,Superstructure, Interiors & Spars
High Performance Spray Application

Surface Preparation

Aluminium: Degrease then low pressure grit blast using aluminium oxide or an equivalent abrasive
(not copper slag) or power disc to a surface profile of 50 – 75 microns/2-3- mils (NB Power wire
brushing is not permitted as it is ineffective and wires are often steel, leading to corrosion).

Steel: Degrease then blast to near white metal AS1627.4 Class 2.5. Power tool clean all welds,
damages, corroded areas and intact shop primer to AS1627.2 Class 2

GRP and Epoxy Composite: Remove any surface wax or mould release agent (parting agent) from
the laminate or gelcoat with a suitable liquid detergent or wiping with a suitable solvent. Sand to a
dull gloss free surface ensuring there are no air voids left untreated.

Timber: Sand wood thoroughly.Ensure the surface is wiped clean with a cloth soaked in
International Thinners #10 or #4 or other suitable fast solvent and allow to dry.

Sequential overcoating
Thickness per coat
Product Name times
WFT DFT 15°C 23°C 35°C
SURFACE PRIMING
Interprime 820 65 Min 36 hrs 24 hrs 24 hrs
160 microns
(thinned 15%) microns Max 3 mths 3 mths 3 mths
OPTIONAL surface
primer for GRP &
TIMBER
Interprotect 42 Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs
102 microns
(thinned ) microns Max - - -
FILLING & FAIRING
20,000 Min 3 days 2 days 1 day
Interfill 830 optional 20,000 microns
microns Max - - -
3,000 Min - - -
Interfill 833 optional 3,000 microns
microns Max - - -
Microsurfacer 500 Min 3 days 24 hrs 24 hrs
800 microns
Optional microns Max - - -
PRIMING
125 Min 16hrs 12 hrs 6 hrs
Interprime 820 275 microns
microns Max 5 days 3 days 2 days
OR
63
125 Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs
Interprotect 305 microns
microns Max - - -

UNDERCOATING
Perfection Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs
50
Undercoat second 100 microns
microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day
coat optional
OR
YRA600 48 Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs
106 microns
second coat optional microns Max - - -
TOP-COATING
25 Min - - -
Perfection 50 microns
microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day
37 Min - - -
Perfection 75 microns
microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day
37 Min - - -
Perfection 75 microns
microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Advisor Notes

 Prepare the substrate in accordance with the Surface Preparation details as outlined in the
Professional Application Manual and Product Datasheets.
 Surface prime with Interprime 820 (thinned 15%) as a holding primer to freshly
prepared substrate. Interprotect thinned down may be used on non-metallic surfaces.
 Fill and fair with Interfill 830 sand with 60 - 80 grade paper, Interfill 833 sand with 60 -
80 grade paper and/or Microsurfacer sand with 120 - 180 grade paper. Remove sanding
debris before proceeding to next steps.
 Prime with one coat of Interprime 820 or Interprotect.
 Undercoat with one or two coats of Perfection Undercoat or YRA600 Undercoat to the
DFT specified on the product datasheet. Sand with 320 – 400 grade paper to obtain a smooth
surface. Remove sanding debris before proceeding.
 Topcoat with 2-3 coats of Perfection by conventional spray to obtain a full gloss.

NOTE :

1. For the filling and fairing option HT9000 blended with suitable fillers may be used
in place of the Interfill 830 and/or Interfill 833.

2. For GRP in good condition with no filling and fairing the system can commence at
the undercoating stage.

3. For interior finishes the Perfection may be replaced with Reaction Lacquer Semi-
gloss if such a finish is required.

Specifications Quick reference spec

Aluminium, Steel, GRP, Epoxy Composite or Timber


64
Topsides,Superstructure, Interiors & Spars
High Performance brush/roller application.

Surface Preparation

Aluminium: Chemical pre-treatment following degreasing and disc grind preparation of aluminium,
using acid etch primer.

Steel: Degrease then power tool clean all welds, damages, corroded areas and intact shop primer to
AS1627.2
Class 2.

GRP and Epoxy Composite: Remove any surface wax or mould release agent (parting agent) from
the laminate or gelcoat with a suitable liquid detergent or wiping with a suitable solvent. Sand to a
dull gloss free surface ensuring there are no air voids left untreated.

Timber: Sand wood thoroughly. Ensure the surface is wiped clean with a cloth soaked in
International Thinners #10 or #4 or other suitable fast solvent and allow to dry.

Sequential overcoating
Thickness per coat
Product Name times
WFT DFT 15°C 23°C 35°C
PRETREATMENT
Etch Primer Min 1 hr 1 hr 1 hr
50
(Aluminium surfaces 6 microns
microns Max 24 hrs 24 hrs 24 hrs
only)
PRIMING

102 42 Min 24 hrs 16 hrs 10 hrs


Interprotect
microns microns Max - - -
FILLING & FAIRING

20,000 20,000 Min 6 hrs 5 hrs 4 hrs


Interfill 830 optional
microns microns Max - - -
Min - - -
3,000 3,000
Interfill 833 optional
microns microns Max - - -
Microsurfacer 800 500 Min 3 days 24 hrs 24 hrs
optional microns microns Max - - -

PRIMING
Interprotect 102 42 Min 5 hrs 3 hrs 2 hrs
microns microns Max 6 mths 6 mths 3 mths
Interprotect 102 42 Min 5 hrs 3 hrs 2 hrs

65
microns microns
Max 6 mths 6 mths 3 mths

Interprotect Min 24hrs 16hrs 10hrs


102 42
microns microns Max - - -

UNDERCOATING

75 38 Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs


Perfection Undercoat
microns microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection Undercoat 75 38 Min 16 hrs 10 hrs 8 hrs


optional microns microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day
TOP-COATING

75 37 Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs


Perfection
microns microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

Perfection 75 37 Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs


microns microns Max 3 days 2 days 1 day

75 37 Min 14 hrs 6 hrs 4 hrs


Perfection Max 3 days 2 days 1 day
microns microns

Advisor Notes
 Prepare the substrate in accordance with the Surface Preparation details as outlined in the
Professional Application Manual and Product Datasheets.
 Surface Pretreatment of Aluminium. Apply one coat of Etch Primer.
 Priming. Apply at least 1 coat of Interprotect. Sand with 60/80 grade paper. Remove
sanding debris.
 Filling and Fairing. Use Interfill 830, Interfill 833 and/or Microsurfacer.
 Priming. Apply 3 coats of Interprotect. Sand with 120/180 grade paper. Remove sanding
debris.
 Undercoating. Apply 1-2 coats of Perfection Undercoat depending on condition of
substrate. Sand with 320 - 400 grade paper. Remove sanding debris.
 Topcoat with 2 –3 coats of Perfection

NOTE :

1. For the filling and fairing option HT9000 blended with suitable fillers may be
used in place of the Interfill 830 and/or Interfill 833.

2. For GRP in good condition with no filling and fairing the system can commence
at the undercoating stage.

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