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Binding books
Hugh Sparks
Version 0.7, June 10, 2008
I like to make small hardbound books I can carry around so I'm always ready to entertain
myself when I get stuck in meetings or family holidays.
The following photo essay is only an overview of the process. I am by no means a teacher
of bookbinding. This record exists mainly so I can remember how to do it next time. The
references at the end provide much greater detail and links to more elaborate binding
projects.
A small book
Here is a portable version of the manual or "Enchiridion" of the Stoic sage Epictetus:
Equipment
Bookbinding is a "tooly" sport like most things that appeal to me. But in this case, I
decided to control the impulse and see what could be done with household appliances.
To duplicate this procedure, you will need a computer and printer. Other than that, the
only bookbinding tools I bought were a bone folder and an expensive needle-on-a-stick.
These objects could easily be made at home from a dead antelope and a raid on the
sewing chest. The handle end of a "Danish" style table knife makes a pretty good folder.
This book was made using regular 8.5x11 laser printer paper. The weight should not be
greater than 24 lbs or the pages will be too stiff. Since you are taking the trouble to make
a book from scratch, it is worthwhile to buy paper that will last: 100% cotton or linen
paper with no acidity. (Neutral pH.)
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Binding books http://csparks.com/Bookbinding/
The supplies, besides paper, include "boards" which can be cut from any solid sheet
cardboard. The best kind is called greyboard. Avoid cardboard that is coated on one side
because it may warp when glued.
You will need liquid adhesive. I highly recommend polyvinyl acetate (PVA) glue over the
more traditional flour-and-water paste. PVA dries fast and doesn't warp boards or paper. It
is available from Lineco in a special neutral pH formula that is claimed to be "archival"
quality.
Not withstanding this promotional, ordinary PVA is not approprite for archival projects,
high value restorations, or most types of leather. Traditional flour-and-water paste is still
considered the superior choice because it can be disassembled when the book needs
rebinding a few hundred years from now. (Violins are assembled with hide glue for the
same reason.)
To cover your book, I suggest cloth for a first attempt. Working with leather requires a
few special tools and quite a bit more expense and practice. You can buy bookbinder's
cloth pre-coated on one side with paper. It's easy to make this yourself by gluing regular
cloth to any thin paper. If you can find it, mulberry paper is the traditional backing. Linen
or buckram cloth is ideal for durable covers.
Procedure
References
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Binding books http://csparks.com/Bookbinding/
Bibliography
The literature of bookbinding is vast. I've collected a small shelf of books, which are listed
below along with a number of free online books from Google.
The publishers and dates are for the original editions. Almost all of the 19th century titles
are available as inexpensive reprints. Some older books are also available free online from
Google Books.
Let me know...
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