Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Teachers
Rakesh Kulkarni & Pranath Soares
Definition
• Photography
The Camera
1. A Camera is a “Light Tight” Box
2. The Lens has a Diaphragm - made of metal plates that define the “Apperture”
3. Parts of a Camera
• Film Winding
• used for advancing the Film
• Shutter Release Button
• Focussing Arrangement - Focussing ring on the camera lens
• Distance Scale
• Not important now - was important in Analogue Photography
• Used because photographers had bad eyesight - possibly
• Now a days the Small dial next to the view finder adjusts for this.
• This is known as the Dioptre
• Lens Release Button - to attach and detach a lens
• Flash Socket - on top of the Camera
• Hot Shoe - the Electronic connection between the camera body and the flash
• Monitor Screen
• for Preview of pictures
• various settings of the camera can also be seen
• Exposure counter
• Keeps count of the number of images one can take in a DSLR
• Keeps count of how many images have been taken in a regular SLR
• Lens Cap
• Tripod
• to be used primarily for Night Photos
• to avoid “Ghost” Images
• Lens Hood
• for Protection
• for Light / Lens Flare protection - when using against bright light / Sun
• Filter
• for protection of Lens and Photographic effects
• Incompatible Memory cards slow down the performance of the camera
• hence its important to chose high speed and compatible cards
PAGE 2 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
24mm 35 mm
36mm
7” 10”
5” 8”
PAGE 4 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Back to SLRs
1. Today Pentaprisms are used to send the light from the lens to the viewfinder
2. Plus the mirror is placed at 45Deg which goes up when the shutter is released
• And thus the light falls on the Image Sensor / Film
3. Now a days Penta mirrors have also come in place of Pentaprisms
4. In Live View mode, the mirror stays up and light falls on the sensor
• But this leads to some shutter lag in live view mode as the mirror needs to go up and down
mechanically - multiple times.
5. Now a days there is a new technology called SLT - Single Lens Transparent Mirrors that
allow for the Mirror to remain in its place without moving up or down
6. Now a days electronic view finders also show the image that is on the sensor
7. Disadvantages of an SLR:
• Restriction of view (since your eye is glued to the viewfinder) when taking a Photo / Image
• Restriction of Synchro Mode (to be discussed later) when using a flash
8. Main features of an SLR:
• Long series of Aperture / Shutter Speed Settings
• New features are most available in SLRs
• All kinds of Photography is possible using SLRs.
5. Polaroid Cameras
• Have printing paper and developing solution inside it
• Chemical solutions + paper is not easily available now
• Quality is not all that good
• In the Film Camera era - it was used as a reference camera for effects - before using a proper
camera for the actual shoot - basically for preview purposes.
• These needs are gone now with the availability of Digital Cameras
PAGE 5 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
AoV Frame
7. Lens Elements
• Consists of a Lens Barrel
• Which contains a mix of convex and concave lenses - called compound lenses
• This what is used by our current day cameras
• Compound lens are responsible for creating Real Images - in practicality
• Optical Defects and Aberrations (lack of clarity) are removed by compound lenses.
• Lenses having 5-8 lens elements is considered a Good Lens
• Less or more number of lenses can lead to Optical Defects + Aberrations
• Question: Why are zoom lenses preferred over normal / fixed focal lenses even if it is having
more than 10 Lens elements?
• Lens Coating
• In the front and back of each lens element there are lens coatings
PAGE 6 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• If the coating is not there the light rays may not meet at a point and either get reflected or
be scattered (reduces Reflection + Diffraction)
• Lens coating also prevents Lens Flare
PAGE 7 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
7. Newer cameras allow for much faster shutter stops - upto 1/8000 of a second.
8. For General lighting conditions have shutter timing greater than 1/500 of second.
9. Also Slow shutter speed can go to 30 second shutter speed - when you will definitely need a
Tripod.
10. “Bulb” Mode allows the shutter release button to be for more than 30 Seconds also
• As much time as it is pressed
• Upto 5 mins or so.
11. Now as days - each shutter stop is broken down into further 3 separate parts / stops
• This is called the 1/3rd series
• Check shutter stops in camera
• This is for DSLRs only - not for SLRs.
12. Types of Shutters:
• Between the lens, In lens, leaf shutter
• Made of Metal blades shaped like a leaf
• Either placed inside lens elements or behind the lens
• Found in regular digital cameras
• These are discontinued today.
• Electronic Shutters
• These days the Image Sensors decide the shutter speed / time as in the case of
Electronic Shutters.
• In case of DLRS the shutter is placed in front of the Image Sensors
• Made of 2 opaque cloths
• Called the 1st curtain and 2nd curtain
• The time gap between the movement of these two curtains decides the shutter
speed
• The curtain can move horizontally or vertically - depending on the camera model
• First the 1st curtain moves and then the 2nd curtain moves when the shutter is
pressed
• The 1st curtain prevents the light from falling on the image sensor
• Therefore you can change lenses without exposing the image sensor / film to
light
PAGE 8 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• Set Fn / x
• Fn / x is known as Exposure.
PAGE 9 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Exposure:
1. Certain Amt of light (by way of Aperture Setting) enters the Camera for Certain Duration (by
way of Shutter Speed)
2. The Total Amount of light that falls on the Image Sensor known as the Exposure and it
depends on Aperture and Shutter Speed.
3. Setting the exposure depends on Lighting conditions and is also based on speed of film.
4. Various Ways of setting the exposure:
• Human Judgement
• Summary 16 Rule
• TTL (through the lens) exposure meter of our cameras.
• Inbuilt in our cameras
• Based on Light levels that the light sensor on the camera which takes light through the
Lens.
• Match Needle Technique to be followed for setting the Exposure using the inbuilt meter.
• Needle at Zero means Image is perfectly exposed.
• increments on the scale are of 1/3rd stops
• A blinking needle at the end of the scale means it is higher / lower than the scale itself /
beyond the scale.
• Which will result in the image being overexposed or underexposed.
• Get the needle in the middle every time Manual settings are done for a proper
exposure.
• By changing the Shutter Speed or Aperture - based on fixing one and setting the
other - depending on whichever is more important.
5. Equivalent Exposure Setting for Shutter Speed and Aperture:
• The Ratio at which Aperture and Shutter Speed settings need to be adjusted - in inverse ratio.
• So for EES if you increase shutter speed by some stops, you need to decrease Aperture by
the same number of stops and vice versa
• In case of DSLRs this is simple these days as you can use the Match Needle Technique very
easily.
PAGE 11 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• 32/16
• 40/17
• 50/18
• 64/19
• 80/20
• 100/21
• 125/22
• 160/23
• 200/24
• 250/25
• 320/26
• 400/27
• 500/28
• 640/29
• 800/30
• 1000/31
• 1250/32
• 1600/33
7. Equivalent Exposure Setting using ISO (Examples)
1. If EES is 5.6 / 60 for 100 ISO
• Then for ISO = 400
• EES will be
• 5.6 / 250 or
• 11/60
2. If EES is 11/125 for 400 ISO
• Then for ISO = 800
• EES will be
• 11/250 or
• 22/125
3. If EES is 4/30 for 100 ISO
• Then for ISO = 200
• EES will be
• 4/60 or
• 5.6/30
4. If EES is 8/8 for 800 ISO
• Then for ISO = 100
PAGE 12 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• EES will be
• 8/1 or
• 2.8/8
Graininess:
1. The Grains in pictures or Noise
2. The Dotty appearance that is seen in an image is termed as graininess in Film and Noise in
Case of Digital Cameras
• Makes the image lose its sharpness
3. Taking pictures at higher ISO tends to put grains in an image (typically when much higher
than 400 ISO)
4. Higher ISO - Increased Graininess
• In DSLRs higher ISO produces unwanted signals which become Noise
5. Larger the size of the Image Sensor - the lesser will be the Noise
6. We need to switch Noise Reduction Setting on only when going over 400 ISO
7. When the Image is more important than Image Quality then using higher ISO is OK.
• Like taking pictures in low light conditions without letting the subject know (hence not using
Flash)
Contrast:
1. The Difference between the brightest tone and the darkest tone of an image is Contrast
2. Medium Contrast is always preferred
3. In case of Film Photography factors influencing Contrast are:
• Lighting condition
• Developing time and procedure
• Speed of Film
• Slower Film has more contrast
4. In case of Digital Cameras the factors influencing Contrast are:
• Lighting Condition
• Camera’s internal Software Setting
• Editing software like Photoshop
5. In Foggy conditions it is important to Increase Contrast
PAGE 13 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Lens:
1. Normal or Standard Lens
1. The lens that, when mounted on a camera records the scene that a normal human eye
can see is known as a Normal Lens
2. The Angle of View is the same as what Human eye can see in case of a Standard Lens
3. Technical Term:
• Normal Lens is a lens in which the focal length is numerically equal to the diagonal
Picture Format of the camera.
• Picture Format = Image Sensor
• Therefore on a 35 mm format camera, a lens which is 43 mm in focal length is called
a Normal or Standard Lens
• For a Medium format camera a 80mm lens is a normal lens
• For a Large format camera a 150 mm lens is a normal lens
• However in reality a 50mm (rounded off) lens is called a Normal or Standard lens for
35mm cameras.
4. Fixed focal length lenses where Focal Lengths are fixed and they cannot change.
• e.g 30mm, 40mm, 50mm lenses etc.
5. Now, in case of 35mm DSLRs the sensor size is as follows:
• For Canon - 22.8 x 14.9
• For Nikon - 23.2 x 15.8
• Both of which are nor the same as in the case of a 36 x 24 mm Film
• These are called APS-C Sensors / Cameras
• Thus:
• For Canon a Normal Lens = 27mm Lens
• For Nikon a Normal lens = 29mm Lens
• Hence 30mm (Approx rounded) is considered a Normal Lens for APS-C Cameras
6. The Sensors for regular Digital Cameras are smaller and hence the normal lens = 15 mm
7. For Mobiles the sensors are even smaller and hence the Normal lens = 3mm
PAGE 14 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• 10mm, 12mm 15mm, 16mm lenses are called Medium Wide Angle Lenses
• Used for Photography of Interiors and Industrial work
• 20mm, 24mm, 28mm, 35mm Lemses are called Semi or Moderate Wide Angle
Lenses
• Used for Press Photography / Events / Birthdays etc.
3. All of the above can be used for Nature or Landscape Photography
4. Using a wide angle lens if you come too close to a subject you will create distortion of the
image.
• This distortion is where the distance between two objects of a subject look
exaggerated (nearer - broader / Further - Narrower)
5. So Do not take Portrait pictures with Wide Angle Lenses - Maintain a 5 to 6 Feet
distance at least.
• If taking photo of a standing person ensure that the picture is taken from the middle of
the person if using a Wide Angle Lens.
3. Telephoto Lens
1. The Lens which consists of a Focal Length longer than the Normal Lens is a Telephoto
Lens
2. Using Telephoto Lenses the image starts appearing closer to you (Telescopic effect)
3. The more the focal length increases the AoV reduces and the subject comes closer to
you.
4. Types of Telephoto Lenses available on 35mm Cameras:
• 70mm, 80mm, 90mm, 100mm, 105mm, 135mm - Moderate Telephoto Lenses
• 200mm, 300mm, 400mm, 500mm, 600mm - Medium Telephoto Lenses
• 800mm, 1000mm, 1200mm - Super Telephoto Lenses
5. For 70mm to 135mm Lenses there are no distortions and images are recorded in best
proportions.
• Hence these lenses are also known as Portrait Lenses
• Used widely for Fashion Photography
6. 200mm to 600mm lenses are typically used for Bird or Wild Life Photography
7. As you increase focal length more than 300mm you need a tripod - as the lenses become
heavy.
8. 800mm to 1200mm lenses are used for Astronomy.
• You can get a tight composition of the moon with these lenses
• Normally these cant be used for Wild life or moving Sports Photography as these
lenses are very very heavy.
9. When using a telephoto lens which is more than 200mm, you will get distortion.
1. But this is not so “eye visible”
2. Here the Distortion is such that the distance between two objects seem to be
compressed (Opp of Wide Angle lenses)
PAGE 15 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
10. Any lens more than 30mm is a telephoto lens in an APS-C Camera.
11. Lenses with Fixed Focal Lenses are also known as Prime Lenses.
12. For a Lens:
• Focal Length Defines AoV
• Focus Defines Sharpness
4. Field of view Crop Factor (FoV Crop factor) or Focal Length Multiplier
1. For Canon the Crop Factor = 1.6
2. For Nikon the Crop Factor = 1.5
3. Therefore the actual focal length = Set Focal Length in the camera / Crop Factor
• This is relevant only when we are using a Defined focal length + distance and trying to
compose a certain picture
4. This happens since the size of the sensor is different
• e.g. Canon 5D Mark II is a “full frame” camera
• where image sensor size is 24mm x 36mm
• and not 22.3mm x 14.9mm as in the case of APS-C cameras
• Thus a 70mm lens on a 5D Mark II will get converted to a Zoom lens on a 550D
for instance (or any APS-C camera)
• A lens used on a full frame camera gives more zoom on an APS-C Camera by a factor
of the Crop Factor (1.6 for Canon)
5. In Nikon - FX range of Cameras are Full frame cameras and DX range are APS-C
Cameras. In Canon you cannot use APS-C camera lenses on a full frame camera (eg.
EF-S lenses dont work on the 5D or 1D)
5. Zoom Lenses:
1. Is a lens that serves the purpose of various lenses having various focal lengths
2. Types:
• 14-35, 20-40 - Wide Zoom
• 28-105, 28-135, 28-70, 28-85, 35-70, 35-105 - Normal / Standard Zoom Lens
• 28-200, 28-300 - Super Zoom Lens
• 70-210, 70-300, 80-200 - Tele Zoom Lens
3. For better optical quality newer elements are introduced in Zoom lenses now a days
• e.g.: XR Lens element on Tamaron Lenses - Refractive Index Lens Element
• this helps reduce the lens size since one lens does the job of 3 lenses
• Aspherical lens element
• Removes Distortion + optical Defects
• Types LD (Low Dispersion), ED (Extra low dispersion), UD (Ultra low
dispersion
PAGE 16 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
7. Macro Lens
1. For Food / Product and Insect Photography
2. You can go Really close to the subject and enables capture of real finer elements which
are often difficult to see by the naked eye
3. Uses finest class of optical elements
4. It is possible to go closure to subject with minimum distortion
5. Types:
• 50mm, 100mm, 180mm, 200mm
6. Macro lenses are marked with Magnification Ratios
• When 1:1 then can get life sized images
• Now Canon has introduced MP65 Lens where the ratio is 5:1
• So one can magnify images 5 times and take pictures
• But these lenses are very heavy
7. Macro Lenses can be used for good portraits as well.
8. Auxiliary Lenses:
PAGE 17 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
1. Teleconverter:
1. Can never work independently
2. Needs to be attached between Camera Body and The Lens
• Found in Ratios of 1.4 x, 2x and 3x
3. Using a Teleconverter the Focal Length is doubled along with Fno / Apperture.
4. Hence Teleconverters are generally best to be used in Lighted conditions (by Increasing
ISO if required)
5. In case of a Teleconverter since there is one more thick glass element between the
camera body and the lens, the following wont work:
• Auto Exposure Setting
• Auto Focus
• IS / VR (Image Stabilisation)
6. Therefore it is disadvantageous to use a Teleconverter most of the times.
3. CloseUp Lens:
1. The Flower Symbol on the Lens signifies the Minimum focussing distance of the lens
2. If we have to take photographs closer than the min focussing length then we need
CloseUp Lenses
3. CloseUp lenses are available with Diopter No as +1, +2, +3 and +4/Macro Close up
Lens
4. These are attached in front of the lens
5. But you will need to switch to manual focussing on the lens
6. Cost of the whole series of CloseUp Lenses is only around 1000K
9. Composition of a Lens:
1. Aspherical Glass elements are used to correct spherical aberrations in lenses .
2. Chromatic Aberrations are corrected by Apochromatic Lenses
• Chromatic Aberrations occur due to diff wavelengths of the different colors of light (7
Colors)
PAGE 18 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• Some Lens elements improve the quality of the lens like UD Glass elements (Ultra Low
Dispersion). These are used to make light travel in a straight line within the Lens Barrel.
Depth of Field
1. Part of the picture around the point of focus that is exceptionally / acceptably Sharp is called
Depth of Field. (Other surrounding areas are Blurred in Focus)
2. Smaller the f-No, smaller the depth of field
• This 50mm 1.8f lens give good DoF results
3. As size of Aperture decreases, the DoF increases
• This DoF is inversely proportional to f-no.
4. DoF = “Area around Point of Focus”
5. DoF field preview button closes the aperture to the f-No that has been set
PAGE 19 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Lighting
1. Quantity of Light
• Determined by:
• Apperture
• Shutter Speed
• ISO (Sensitivity of Sensor)
2. Quality of Light
1. Harsh Light - when the source of light is small it creates well defined shadows
• e.g. in Built Flash
• Sun
2. Hard Light - Contrast in images is higher and Saturation of colours is high
3. Soft Light - Contrast is less and Saturation of Colours is low
4. Hard Light can be converted to Soft light - but not vice versa
• To convert hard light to soft light, cover the hard light / filter it with something that
diffuses the light (Diffuser)
• Like an Umbrella / Studio Umbrella to diffuse the light
5. Soft Light is preferred for Portraits / Product Photography
PAGE 20 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
3. Angle of Light
1. Frontal Light
• Whenever the source illuminates the front of the subject
• The Subject is lit properly
• No Shadows are cast
• Actually a disadvantage sometimes - as the picture will look flat and in one plane
• Shadows give information about the depth, form and texture of the subject
• So having some shadows is good
• Thus frontal light / flash is not the best lighting condition for pictures
2. Side Lighting
• Whenever the side of the subject is illuminated
• Creates images with high contrast
• But when we do side lighting, the texture of the subject is highlighted
• So its ideal for food photography, Jewelry etc
• Not for Portraits
• Highlights / Shadows / Midtones are all required when we take a picture
3. Back Light
• Back of the subject is illuminated
• More care needs to be taken
• Chances of lens flare are there
• So cover the lens with a hood or hand
• Also use a reflector in the front to reflect the light back to the subject in a diffused state
• When it is not possible to carry reflectors, use a secondary source of light to fill in the
shadows (e.g.: Camera’s Flash / External Flash)
• The in-built flash in normal SLRs have 15 feet limit
• Back lighting allows silhouette pictures to be taken
• In such situations under expose the exposure by one or two stops to make the
silhouette more dark.
4. Cut Light / Hair Light / Rim Light
• Focussed 135deg from the front of the subject
• Gives a pictorial effect
5. Conventional Model Lighting
• 45deg from the front of the subject and slightly above the subject
• Illuminated triangle on the side of the face that is on the side of the face that is not
directly exposed to light - shows that the lighting is correct
Illuminated Triangle
PAGE 21 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
• Plus the subjects eyes should have a glint / “Catch Eye” between 10-11 o’clock or 1-2
o’clock depending on which side the light is falling from
6. 3 most popular lighting methods
1. Flat Lighting
• Used for Identity / Passport
Photos
• Subject
• Distributed Main
Sources of light
• Camera
PAGE 22 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
3. Internal Capacitors are charged (by Batt) which times / charges the flash
4. After every flash there is a time that is taken by the capacitors to get charged again
• This is call Flash recycle time.
5. Flash Recycle time of built in flashes are higher and it is much lesser for portable
flashes. Studio flashes are charged by electricity and hence their charges are fastest.
6. Duration of a Flash is 1/5000th of a Second to 1/25000th of a Second.
7. When taking pictures with a flash, the shutter speed does not play any role in setting
the exposure.
• When using a flash the movement of the subject will be frozen
• Do not use a fast shutter speed in Flash Photography or else you will get partial
exposure
• Keep it around 1/100 or 1/150 - Max 1/200
8. The fastest shutter speed beyond which you will get a partial exposure is called Flash
Synchronisation Speed (FSS)
9. The built in or Portable Dedicated Flashes automatically adjusts the shutter speed
to the FSS if the shutter speed is more than the FSS
10. Power of portable flashes is mentioned in terms of some Distance
• Called the guide no
• e.g. 42 meters at 100 ISO
11. For built in Flashes the guide no is typically 5 meters at 100 ISO
12. Speedlite 580 EXII has a power of 58 meters at 100 ISO or 191 feet at 100 ISO
13. It is always better to use lower ISO when using Flash
14. Formula for using Fno when using a manual mode flash
• Fno = Guide no of Flash / Distance between subject and Flash
15. Studio Flash
• Draws power from a power socket - no Batt.
• Has a modeling lamp along with the flash. This acts like a guide.
• Can have various attachments
• Can fire multiple flashes through the Xenon Light Sensor
• Shutter speed should be 1/125 for Studio Flashes
PAGE 23 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Autofocus
1. 2 Kinds of systems for Focussing
1. Active System
2. Passive System
2. Active System uses two kinds of techniques
• Ultra Sonic Sound (US) - used in USM lenses
• In this, with the use of sound the camera senses the focus automatically. The sound waves
reflect off the subject and the distance is calculated by the camera to focus
• Infrared Light (IR)
• In this case the camera emits an Infra Red Light which helps in focussing
• These do not work in shooting landscapes however - since the subject is too far away
3. In the Passive System, the sensor detects different intensities of light and analyses highlights
and shadows. Based on this the distance of the subject and light levels are determined.
• Once the distance of the subject is determined, the focus ring on the lens begins to move.
• If the intensity of light is low, the passive system does not work well.
4. The Autofocus points denote whether or not focus has been achieved and which part of the
frame is in focus
5. Sometimes the AF goes on focussing and this is due to the poor lighting conditions. If there are
no highlights or shadows present, then the autofocus goes on focussing.
6. AF points are horizontal as well as vertical
7. The Center AF point is called the Cross light auto focus sensor because it is square in shape
and bigger than the other points of focus.
• The sensitivity of the Center AF point is higher than the normal AF sensor points
8. Ways to achieve AutoFocus:
1. One Shot Focus:
• Pressing the shutter release button halfway, the camera focusses just once. This is known
as One Shot Focus.
2. AutoFocus Continuous (AI Focus in case of Canon):
• In this mode the camera keeps on focussing continuously.
• Ideal when the subject is moving.
• The camera goes on focussing if the distance between the camera and subject is changing.
• Used to do “Panning” Shots in case of moving objects.
• Put Camera on TV mode and shutter speed as 1/30
• Set aperture as per ISO 200 - 400
• Half press shutter release button and focus on a moving object coming towards you
from far. Follow the object at the same speed as its movement and when it is in center
of the frame in front of you - press the shutter release button fully.
• You should get the object in sharp focus and the background in blurred view.
PAGE 24 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
10. AF lock
• When composing a shot select the middle focus point. Then press the shutter release buttom
half way down to achieve focus on the subject. Then shift the camera to recompose the shot
and then click. The subject will remain in focus.
• Remember not to release the shutter release button.
• In case of DSLRs the Phase Detect system (Passive System) of focus is used.
11. Contract Detect
1. In compact cameras there is no dedicated AF sensor in the camera
2. The data from adjacent pixels gets merged, the contrast is minimised and hence the image
gets sharp.
3. It is slower than the Phase Detect System
PAGE 25 OF 32
DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Composition Tips
1. Rule of Thirds:
• Divide the frame vertically and horizontally into 3 imaginary parts
• The points are known as Points of Primary Focus, points of intersection or Points of
dominance.
• The subject should be placed in one of the four points.
• The Lines are known as lines of Secondary focus
2. The picture should be composed keeping in mind the side that the subject is looking
3. If the person is on the right of the frame looking to the left then the space on the left should be
more.
4. If you want to create a difference between the subject and the background, then try and give a
difference in tone for either one.
5. Either the colors or focus can be used as elements to highlight the background or the subject.
6. Include guiding lines in a Photo to make it more interesting - like a flight of stairs or a stream
etc.
7. Avoid composing the picture at joints of the subject - like arms, legs, wrist etc.
Types of Filters
1. UV Filters - Clear Glass filters for indoor shooting / studio setup. Primarily used these days as
a lens protector.
2. Radial Filter - Has a hole in the centre surrounded by thick glass to create a blurring effect
3. Star Filter - Gives a star effect to a small source of light
4. Defraction Filter - Gives circular effects
5. ND filters - Natural Density Filters - Blocks out light upto a certain amount (depending on
strength - ND2/ND4/ND8 etc) equally.
6. Polarising Filter - CPL (Coloured Polarised Light) Filter - Light is made to move in one
direction. Use in outdoors to minimise reflection.
Colour of Light
1. RGB - Red/Blue/Green - Primary Colours
2. When these 3 colours are mixed in equal proportions they form white light
3. When Red and Blue is mixed it produces Magenta
4. When Red and Green is mixed it produces Yellow
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
3. Landscape Photography:
1. Composition being the key for landscape photography, using the rule of thirds compose the
shot.
2. Shoot in Manual Mode with Shutter 1/160, F11 to get sharper depth of field, ISO 200-400
depending on the lighting conditions OR
3. In AV mode - shutter speed auto for F11 and ISO 400
4. You can also use A-DEP mode along with auto selection of Focal points.
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
Shooting in Sunlight
1. Advantages
1. Light is abundant so any kind of Photography can be done
2. Generally setting an exposure is not a problem in this case.
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES
SUBJECT: ADVANCED PHOTOGRAPHY COURSE
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF PHOTOGRAPHY
5. When reading the readings from 2 Light Meter readings of different parts of a subject, we need
to calculate the difference by subtracting the Fstop readings and the decimal readings
separately.
• e.g.: Diff between 5.6.3 and 4.1 = 1.2
6. From the Top to Bottom light meter readings in case of a Portrait, the difference should be
only 0.5 Stop.
7. In Conventional Studio Lighting the Diff in light meter readings between Main Light and
Secondary Light should be 1-1.5 stops and between Main light and Back light should be 3 stops.
End of Notes
Rest can be referred to in the handouts given by NIP and also from the Camera Manuals of your
respective cameras - especially for Menu options.
Also Practice shooting in all kinds of situations - using the Photography book as a Guide.
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DEBASHISH GHOSH’S NOTES