Headstock
Headstock
• General Bearing Check
• Headstock Bearing Adjustment
• Headstock Bearing Lubrication/Replacement
General Bearing Check
What you need before hand
• Bike lift
• Hook Scales (optional)
Steps
1. Place the bike on a lift so that the front wheel is Steps
raised.
2. Grab both forks and rock them from forwards
to backwards. If there is any movement in this
then you probably need your headstock bearing
replaced.
3. It is also good practice to test the tightness of
the bearings. Tie a piece of string to one side of
the handle bars and the other to a hooked
weight. Gently pull on the handle bars- it
should probably measure somewhere between
200-500grams of pressure before it moves. The
manual doesn’t specify how much so just write
it down and if it changes by next service you
will have a comparison.
4. Also check that the headstock has full
movement from left to right.
Job Done!
Headstock Bearing Adjustment
What you need before hand
• Screw Bit: 4Hex, 5Hex, Philips
• Sockets: 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, 19mm 30mm
T40, HW8,
• Plastic blade or flat screwdriver
• Torque wrench 6-65Nm
• Angle Gauge
• Chock stand- or alternative to keep upright
• Tank brace
• Triumph tool 3880140-T0301
1. Lift the bike if you haven’t already.
2. Remove any accessories like screens and satnavs.
The Triumph manual says to remove the handle
bars as the next step but you don’t have to remove
it like they say. It does make it a lot easier to
remove the tank and move the handle bars as one
unit rather than pull off all the bits and bobs.
Other on the internet prefer just to place
something soft over the tank to avoid it getting
scratched. The method below is the one I used and
had no problems and good accessibility to the
headstock.
Remove Tank
3. Undo the three screws on the instrument panel
using a 5Hex bit. There are two screws towards
the front and one towards the back of the unit.
Turn the handlebars as needed to increase access
to the front ones.
4. With the screws removed the instrument panel
will lift off to reveal the connector. Pull back the
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rubber seal around the connector, depress it and
disconnect.

8. It helps to take a picture of this view so that you
5. Remove any accessories that may obstruct the
removal of the tank, such as a GPS attached to the
handlebars.
6. Remove the screw at the front of the tank fixing it
to the frame using a 4-Hex bit. Cut any cable ties
attaching the cabling to the tank.
know how to return the wires and hose back to
where you found them. Note on this picture
someone has put the fuel pump connector facing
the opposite way to what is depicted in the
Triumph Service Manual- no idea why but photos
provide the evidence. DO NOT disconnect the
fuel hose at this point. Gently bend the metal clips
holding the breather hose back from the tank and
disconnect the hose from the tank.

Fuel pump connector Fuel level sensor

7. Triumph no longer sell the OEM tool that acted as a

tank support. However, an alternative can be made
from a piece of wood or stiff plastic. Sufficient size
is 26cm long x 10cm wide. The gap at the top is
3cm long x 5.5cm wide. Lift the tank up from the
front and support it with the brace.

Breather hose Fuel hose

9. Disconnect the fuel pump connector and the fuel
level sensor, squeeze and pull.

10. Re-connect the black (negative) battery terminal

while these two connectors are separated. Put the
ignition key in and briefly crank the engine. The
Triumph service manual says nothing about
having to reconnect the instrument panel in order
to crank the engine. However, in practice the
engine does nothing if you do not temporarily re-
connect the instrument panel, so do this and press
the start button on the handle bar. Do this until the
engine turns over a couple of times then turn off
the engine and disconnect the instrument panel.
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The purpose of this process is to de-pressurise the
fuel rail (Part: T1246007). If you don’t do this
there is a risk that fuel will spill out under
pressure or clot in the system. I am unsure if this
is true but it is what the Triumph Service manual
recommends and seems sensible to follow. I’ve
done this a few times now and prefer just to
disconnect it and take the risk, its up to you. If you
do what Triumph recommends the down side is
that the engine light will be on following this
procedure but will clear with several cycle of on-
off and a run of the motorcycle. Alternatively you
could clear the fault codes using computer
software.

11. With the system depressurised, disconnect the fuel
hose. Put a rag underneath the connector to catch
any fuel drips. Pull the blue part of the connector 16. Clip out the caps on the handle bar fixings using a
away from itself. Then press the sides of the black plastic blade (or risk scratches using a normal one
part and wiggle it free. I like to wrap the hose in a like I did).
bag with a bit a paper towel because then I know
petrol isn’t going to go everywhere.

12. With the fuel line disconnected, remove the tank
brace and return the tank to its original position.
Undo the bolt at the back of the tank using a 10mm
spanner on one end and a 8mm socket on the other.
Undo the nut all the way then support the back of
the tank with your hand and remove the bolt.

13. Place some foam on the floor or wherever you will
be placing the tank to protect the paintwork. Lift the
tank off the bike and place onto the foam or soft
ground.

14. My wiring seemed a little different to the manual so
take pictures of what you are moving about if you
17. I put a bit of nail polish dots on the bar and the
have any uncertainty. I started with moving one of
handle bar riser so I have an easy reference point
the main cables out of the way.
for when I put it back.

15. Undo the fasteners holding the cables under the top
yoke in place using T40.
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21. Lift the top yoke off the forks.
18. Undo the handle bar mounts using a HW8 socket.
Then place the handlebars onto the frame out of the
way.

Optional: If you want to lubricate or change the

headstock bearings then skip to the next guide below
and continue on from step 36.
19. Undo the top yoke clamp on either side using HW8 22. There are a range of options on how to adjust the
Socket. bearing. One way is to remove the front wheel,
support the lower yoke with one hand and then
slowly tighten the adjuster nut (the lower one)
while moving the steering from side to side until
resistance is felt. Others on the Internet lower the
bike to the ground, nip up the adjuster nut and then
raise the bike from the ground and move the
steering to see if it is as it should be. The choice is
yours but the following is what is described in the
Triumph manual. Start by undoing the lock nut and
the adjuster nut using the Triumph Tool 3880140-
T0301. Not this picture is different because I
removed the forks and headlight, but that isn’t
needed unless you are replacing the bearings.

20. Undo the top nut using 30mm socket. I like to put
something soft over the nut to make sure it doesn’t
get scratched.

23. Now using a torque wrench and the Triumph tool

tighten (see picture above) the adjuster nut to
40Nm. This seats the bearing fully.
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28. With the adjuster set you can now reassemble.
Begin by sliding the top yoke back on. Double
check that the forks are flush with the top yoke.

24. Now slacken the adjuster nut again.

25. Retighten the adjuster nut using torque wrench and

the Triumph tool to 6Nm.

26. Now loosen the adjuster nut by 450. You can eye
ball it or you can use a angle gauge. 29. Put the washer back into place and tighten the top
nut using 30mm socket to 65Nm.

30. Tighten the top yoke bolts using HW8 Socket to

20Nm.

27. Now hold the adjuster nut in place using the

Triumph tool and tighten the locknut using the
other Triumph tool and a torque wrench to 40Nm.
Keep an eye on the adjuster nut, make sure it
doesn’t move when tightening the locknut.

31. Put the cable bracket fixing back using T40 socket
and tighten sensibly.
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Reinstall The Handlebars
32. Put the handlebars back in place and line them up
with the dots you made on disassembly. Or find a
comfortable position. They are easy to adjust if you
want to change the position later. Once in position
tighten to 26Nm using HW8 socket.

Re-install the tank

36. Place the tank back into position

37. Put the bolt and sheath at the rear of the tank back
into the hole and screw the nut on finger tight but
do not torque yet.
33. Place the 4 caps back onto the handle bar fasteners.

38. Once the rear bolt is in, lift the tank from the front
and put in the tank brace.

34. Make sure the cables are all in place. Re-install the
cable guides using T40 and tighten sensibly.

39. Reconnect the fuel hose and clip the blue bit back
into the lock position. If it isn’t all the way in and
locked, fuel will leak out which will be dangerous.

40. Reconnect the breather hose, fuel pump connector

and fuel sensor connector.
35. Move the wiring back into position.
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Fuel pump connector Fuel level sensor 45. Place the instrument panel into position making
sure the rubber seal around its edge is in place.
Running a small a small plastic spatula along the
edge of the seal can help with this. Don’t push this
into position, arrange the cable so that it sits nicely
before screwing it in. Tighten the three screws on
the instrument panel using a 5-Hex adapter. The
Triumph manual says 7Nm but I have found that in
practice this has led to the plastic cracking so just
tighten sensibly, it’s not under load anyway.

46. While the bike is still raised, move the forks front
to back and side to side to see if there is any free
play in the head stock. Also make sure that the
steering moves all the way left and right with no
Breather hose Fuel hose obstructions. Rectify as needed.

41. Remove the tank brace and lower the tank into 47. Return any accessories to the bike, such as a GPS.
position making sure that none of the hoses become
kinked or trapped. 48. Reconnect the negative battery terminal using a
Philips screwdriver.
42. Tighten the front tank fixing sensibly using the 4-
Hex head (8Nm to be precise, but you may strip it if 49. Install the main seat and the pillion seat to both
not careful). using a 5-Hex head.

50. If you have any fault codes go to the ECM section

to see how to read them. If you have reassembled
everything correctly it is more than likely that after
several rides the engine light will turn off but it is
best to be safe and find out if the ECM is throwing
up any meaningful fault codes and deal with them
accordingly.

Set the time on the clock. Press the (i) button until it
gets to the clock then hold it down until it flashes.
43. Now tighten the rear tank bolt to 9Nm using a 8mm
Press through to set the hour then it will go onto the
socket and torque wrench on one end and a 10mm
minutes.
spanner on the other.
51. Drive slowly down the road and check the brakes,
44. Reconnect the main cable to the rear of the
suspension and steering are working properly
instrument panel and slide the rubber seal into place
before going out on the open road.
to prevent water and/or dirt getting in. Replace any
cable ties needed in the area.
Job Done!

Headstock Bearing/Race
Inspection/Lubrication/Replacement

What you need before hand

• To get to stage 21 in the guide above
• Screw Bit: T30
• Sockets: 14mm, 17mm, 19mm T6, T30, HW5
HW6,
• Plastic blade or flat screwdriver
• Torque wrench 6-65Nm
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• Tap and die set
• New bearing kit 4. Loosen the pinch bolts at the bottom of the right
• Race bearing removal tool fork using HW6 socket.
• Race bearing installation tool
• Bearing removal/installation tool
• Clamps (optional)
• Feeler gauge

Steps
1. Get to step 21 on the guide above.

2. Remove the front brake pads as per the

instructions in the Front Brake Guide: Remove
the R-clip with needle nose pliers, remove the
retaining pin with a T5 adapter, remove the
anti-rattle spring then wiggle out the pads. If
they are not budging then open the lid of the
front master cylinder and push the caliper
pistons back with the brake pads using your
fingers. If it has been a while since the pads
were out they may require a lot of
‘encouragement’. Clean all parts once removed
in brake cleaner.
5. Lower the bike (or raise slightly if you did the
previous steps with the bike on the ground) so
that the wheel is straight and the wheel is
slightly off the ground.
6. Undo the spindle from the right fork using a
19mm socket. I found this adapter useful: I
could use a 17mm socket and on the other end
was a 19mm Hex.

Remove Front Wheel

3. Remove the 4 bolts supporting the two calipers
using 14mm socket. Don’t let the caliper’s
hang, I found a simple solution was to use some
elastic bands and tie them to the exhaust pipes.
Clean the calipers using brake cleaner and clean
out the threads using a tap and die so they are
clean for new threadlock for assembly. .

7. With the spindle removed you can raise the bike

from the ground and the wheel will stay on the
ground. Make sure you collect both wheel
spacers: the small one goes on the ABS/wheel
speed sensor side (left side) and the large one
goes on the side without (right side).
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you will know where to line them up when it
comes to putting them back. Once you have a
point of reference loosen the indicator bracket
clamp, using HW5 socket and loosen the lower
yoke using HW6 socket.

11. Now slide the forks out, don’t force it as you

don’t want to scratch it on the way out, just ease
it gently. I hung the indicator off the frame so
they weren’t hanging.

8. Don’t lay the wheel down on the disc brakes!

Make a platform, lean it against a wall or use
and old tyre to rest the wheel on.
9. Remove the 4 fixings holding the mudguard/
brake cables in place using T30 adapter.

Remove the headlight & indicators

12. This is slightly different depending on if you
have the original model, Storm, LT or
commander. I have the Storm so that is what I
need to follow but essentially just remove the
headlight. The Triumph manual says to
disconnect the indicators by disconnecting the
electrics in the headlight. My bike was wired
differently whereby the indicators were not
located inside the headlight but connected just
above the radiator. So I was able to disconnect
them and feed them through the space in the
frame. Start by undoing the fasteners holding
the front brake line using 8mm (or 10mm)
socket.

Remove Forks

10. Best not to mix parts up from either fork, so

keep all the parts from the same side together.
I’d also recommend putting a bit of nail polish
on the indicator and on the fork leg, that way 13. Gently pull out the plastic cable holder.
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17. With the wires disconnected feed them through

and out of the lower yoke.

18. Remove the headlight adjustment bolt using

HW6 socket. And place them to the side of the
14. If needed to remove the horn bracket to get bike, I strap mine up using elastic straps.
better access to the indicator connectors (if that
is where yours is) using 8mm socket.

19. Using the Triumph spanner tools undo the lock

nut and remove the adjuster nut and bearing
cover.
15. Loosen the cable holder on the headstock to
give room for the wires to move out the way
using T5 screw bit.

16. Disconnect the indicator wires. I had one above

and below the frame. Label them with colored
tape so you know which one goes where when
it is time for reassembly.