Headstock

11

20. With the nuts removed the bottom yoke will

slide out from the bottom of the headstock.

Bearing Lubrication
21. At this point you can lubricate the lower bearing
with new grease. I chose to replace mine as I
wasn’t sure if they had ever been done and were
looking a little warn. It’s up to you, based on
your judgment. If you just want to grease them
then do so and carry on from step 35 below.

Bearing Replacement (If needed) 23. Repeat the process for the bottom race. You can
22. Drift out the upper and lower races using an see mine were getting a little bit warn.
appropriate tool and hammer. I used a splayed
drifter. Put it in from the opposite end you want
to drift out and then place it just under the lip of
the race you are trying to drift out. Below are
steps 1, 2 and 3 of the process.
 Headstock 12

27. Screw in the stem to the holder

24. I used a motion pro bearing remover and it was

straight forward enough for me. Using cutting
pliers cut out the cage of the lower bearing to
remove the cage.

28. Screw in the stop of the tool and using a 17mm

socket and an adjustable spanner screw the stop
in. As you do so the lower bearing will move
upwards.

25. Place the bearing clamp onto the bearing

housing. But DON’T tighten them any more
than by hand otherwise it wont work at all.

29. Clean up the lower yoke and place a new dust

seal onto the stem.

26. Stick the stem protector on

 Headstock 13

30. Run a very little bit of oil onto the stem to help
the bearing slide onto the shaft. The new
bearings need to be packed. Put some grease in
your hand and push the bearing into it until all
the rollers are coated in grease.
32. Smear a thin amount of oil onto the races so
they go in a bit easier. I made use of a race
installer tool but many people make their own.
If the kit you have doesn’t exactly fit into your
race then you can use the old race face to drift
into the new one. You have to make sure it goes
in straight relative to the headstock angle.

31. With the motion pro kit use the 30mm small
adapter as this fits just onto the frame of the
bearing and places no pressure on the rollers or
cage. The adapter fits into where the bearing
grabber was. I found that placing the stem
between two mats meant that the yoke could sit
firm on the ground while I drifted the bearing
into place. You’ll know when you get to the
bottom because the sound when hitting the
drifter will change to more of a thud.

33. Repeat the process for the upper yoke race.

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37. Now completely slacken the adjuster nut
34. Pack the upper bearing with grease.
38. Re-tighten the adjuster nut to 6Nm.

39. Now loosen the headstock nut 45degrees. The

intended free-play should be spot on now.

Reassembly of the front end

35. Slide the lubricated lower yoke into the
headstock. Make sure the upper bearing isn’t
knocked out. It is then followed by the bearing
dust seal, adjuster nut, washer and lock nut. Do 40. Once the adjuster nut is correct then put the
up the adjuster hand tight. The adjustment of it washer back on and the lock nut.
will be returned to above.

41. Using the Triumph tool hold the adjuster nut in

place and tighten the lock nut to 40Nm. Make
36. Using the Triumph tool tighten the adjuster nut sure the adjuster doesn’t move. This is best
to 40Nm. achieved by having the steering on full lock.
 Headstock 15

Install headlight and indicators

42. Move the headlight/s back into position and
using HW6 socket tighten it to 27Nm.

46. Reinstall the joining brake line using 8mm

socket to 6Nm. Making sure the indicator wires
are not trapped as they fit into the bracket.
43. Feed the indicator wires through the lower yoke
and reconnect them.
R L

44. Make sure the wires are all in place and tighten
up the cable bracket sensibly using T5 bit.

45. Reconnect the wires and reinstall the horn 47. When it came to holding the indicator brackets
bracket using 8mm socket. in place I found it useful to be able to use
clamps.

48. Reconnect the plastic cable holder.
49. Place the top yoke back into position and put
back the washer and top nut. No need to tighten
it up fully just yet. When you do make sure that
the handlebar cables are routed in the correct
position otherwise you will find when putting
when putting the handle bars back that you need
to remove the top yoke again.
Install the Forks
50. Slide each fork through the bottom yoke,
indicator bracket and up into the upper yoke.
Make sure it is flush with the top yoke. You can
tighten using HW8 socket but not too tight just
yet.
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51. Double check to make sure the indicators and
their wires are back in place as per the photo
upon disassembly. Essentially there is a little
grove under the indicator bracket that the wire
sits in. Make sure it is in there and not trapped.
52. Now both forks are back and flush with the top
yoke you want to check that they are equally
flush. Do this by briefly re-installing the front
axel with the 17mm socket and 19mm adapter,
this way you will know the forks are equal to
one another. Move the forks around until it all
lines up, this is why you leave them loose
earlier. Now tighten the top yoke clamps to
20Nm using HW8 socket.

53. Reinstall the mudguard and the respective brake
hose clips by screwing in the 4 fixings using
T30 screw bit. There isn’t a need to tighten
them just yet as we still need to centre the
wheel.
54. Double check that the top yoke clamps are tight
to 20Nm using the HW8 socket adapter. You
don’t want to press on them when centering the
fork and have one pop out.
55. Smear a bit of grease onto the wheel spacers
and put them in place: smaller one on the wheel
speed sensor side (left) and the larger one on the
other (right).
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56. Lower the bike and forks into place and
maneuver the wheel into place being careful not
to knock the wheel spacers out. Also check that
the wheel speed sensor is back in place sitting on
its lug.
57. Slide the spindle back in from the right side of
the bike and screw it into the left for using
19mm hex/adapter and tighten but don’t fully
tighten it just yet.
58. With the wheel in place, lower the bike
completely into a front wheel chock. Make sure
that you didn’t forget to tighten the top yoke
clamps otherwise the forks will slide through.
59. Keep the top yoke camps tightened. Now make
sure the bottom yoke pinch bolts and indicator
brackets are loose just a little using a HW6 and
HW5 respectively.
60. Double check that everything south of the top
yoke bots is loose; bottom yoke bolts,
indicators, mudguard fixings and axel. Make
sure the main steering nut is loose as well.
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61. Straddle the bike in the stand and put one hand
on each fork top cap. Push down and pump the
suspension. Don’t do it at an angle, it is
important it is in direct line with the forks.
Because of the way the components are
machined this allows everything to centre
relative to each other.

Push

64. Now tighten the front mudguard fixings to

12Nm using T30 screw bit.

65. Put the wheel spaces in place: smaller one on

the wheel speed sensor side (left) and the larger
one on the other (right).

62. Now that the forks have been centered you can
progressively tighten everything up. Hold the
fork and tighten the head stock nut until it is 66. Lower the bike and maneuver the wheel into
hand tight. Make sure nothing moves in the place being careful not to knock the wheel
process. Then using HW6 tighten the bottom spacers out. Also check that the wheel speed
yoke fasteners. Then go back and tighten the sensor is back in place sitting on its lug.
head stock nut to 65Nm using 30mm socket, the
bottom yoke clamps to 27Nm (Storm model 67. Slide the wheel spindle in from the right side of
only, 25Nm for standard Thunderbird) using the bike and screw it into the left for using
HW6 socket, then indicator brackets using 19mm hex/adapter and tighten to 65Nm.
HW5 socket to 9Nm. Double check that all the
wires are neatly tucked away and not crimped.

63. Put the bike back onto the lift and remove front
wheel again so you can tighten up the front
mudguard properly. I’d like to have tightened
them up earlier but if you do there is a chance
that the forks might not centre properly.
Someone with more knowledge than me maybe
able to explain why you can tighten them
earlier, if so I’d be open to learning more.
Remove front spindle and slide the wheel out.
Also make sure that the brake cable brackets are
in place on the mudguard.
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Reinstall the Handlebars
52. Put the handlebars back in place and line them up
with the dots you made on disassembly. Or find a
comfortable position. They are easy to adjust if you
want to change the position later. Once in position
tighten to 26Nm using HW8 socket.

53. Place the 4 caps back onto the handle bar fasteners.

Reinstall The Brakes

68. For ABS models- reinstall the shim and ABS
sensor using 8mm socket and tighten to 7Nm if
you removed it (but there wasn’t really a need).
Make sure that the cable is clipped back into the
back of the left fork (right when viewed from
the front of the bike). Once in, check using a
feeler gauge that the air gap between the APS
ring and the sensor is between 0.37-1.25mm.

54. Make sure the cables are all in place. Re-install the
cable guides using T40 and tighten sensibly.

55. Move the wiring back into position and triple check
the cables are on the correct side of the yoke.
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69. Reposition both calipers over the discs and

install the bolts using 15mm socket to 50Nm.

70. Reinstall the brake pads, put the anti-rattle

spring in place, put a very small amount of
copper grease onto the thread of the pin and
install it using T5, and finally secure it with a
new R-clip. If the calipers are too far out then
undo the front brake master cylinder reservoir
lid with a Philips screwdriver and push the
caliper back into it’s holding to create more
room.

71. With the brake pads in place on the disc the

right caliper needs to be central to the disc.
Basically there is a small amount of movement
in the fork from left to right. With the pinch
bolts loose push the two forks together and you
will probably see a changing gap between the
fork and the spacer on the right side. You need
to push the two forks together so that the caliper
is central to the disc. Keep the gap closed and
the caliper central then screw in the two pinch
bolts using T6 bit to 22Nm. This is a step is
described in the Triumph manual but I’ve never
seen the alignment of the disc to the caliper to
be out of alignment but best to be sure.

72. Check that the brakes are working and the

wheel spins properly. If not problems solve- do
the brakes need bleeding, are the brake pads
installed properly and check previous steps.

Job mostly done- now return to step 36 above to finish

off the reassembly.