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histograms
Part one: If your DSLR offers histograms, there’s no excuse for
taking a duff exposure. Ian Farrell explains how they work and
why they’re your greatest ally in the search for perfect pictures
W
hen you shoot a digital allowing you to tell whether your
photograph, how do you tell if the picture is well exposed or not.
result is properly exposed or not? Let’s consider an average scene
You probably look at the image containing a broad range of tones. If
on your camera’s viewing screen. this is photographed with the correct
While this can tell you if your subject had their aperture and shutter speed settings
eyes closed, or whether you composed the shot then the resulting histogram will have
properly, it’s not actually a very good way of information distributed broadly across it,
assessing exposure. perhaps with a peak in the middle. If it’s
Camera viewing screens are crude devices, of underexposed, the peak will shift left
lower quality than the average computer monitor. towards the darker end of the scale (towards 0,
Look at a picture on the screen in bright sunlight pure black), indicating an overall darkening of the
and it can look too dark; look at the same image picture. You may also see a bunching up of the
in dim light and it can appear too light. Thankfully, histogram on the exteme left, and a gap on the
there’s a far more accurate means of assessing right-hand side indicating a lack of light tones.
exposure in-camera: using the histogram. On the other hand, if the scene is overexposed,
Although it looks a bit complicated, a histogram you’ll see a histogram biased towards the right of
is actually a very easy way of telling, at a glance, if the graph, possibly running off the bright end of
you have a properly exposed picture or not, and – the scale (past 255, pure white), with no
most importantly – whether there are any blown information at the dark end.
54 PHOTOGRAPHY MONTHLY
[ Technique ]
MID-TONES
The majority of the average image will consist of brightness in the
middle part of the histogram, therefore it’s not uncommon for there
SHADOWS to be several peaks in this area. HIGHLIGHTS
Darker tones – solid Bright parts of a
black and shadows photo correspond to
– are represented in information at this
this area of the end of the
histogram. Absolute histogram. Be
black (brightness warned that
value 0) will show information beyond
no detail, whereas this point (255),
single digital tones blown highlights,
will retain some. can’t be recovered.
This can sometimes happen, even with today’s Highlights of this type lie out of range of the
modern autoexposure systems. Likewise, if you’re sensor’s sensitivity, so to record any detail you’d
shooting something high-key (ie. an image have to reduce the exposure. If you aren’t sure
dominated by whites and light tones) you’d expect whether you’ve clipped a highlight or not, take a
to see a histogram shifted to the right-hand side look at the histogram on the camera’s LCD. If you
as an indication of correct exposure. see the information running off the right end of
the scale then you can rescue these overexposed
Clipping and dynamic range areas by dialling in some negative exposure
As well as telling you about the tones in an compensation on your camera and re-shooting.
image, a histogram can also provide information Similarly, black, featureless areas – ‘clipped
about what’s missing. If you’ve ever shot a shadows’ – can be identified by the histogram
landscape photograph only to find the sky crashing off the left-hand side of the scale. If you
registering as completely white, then you have see this, a spot of positive exposure compensation
recorded what is usually known as a ‘blown’ or will help bring things back into range.
‘clipped’ highlight – a part of the picture that’s so It’s not always this simple though; often
bright that its assigned value in the histogram applying negative exposure compensation to
goes beyond 255. rescue highlights means that shadows then
KNOW-HOW
Histograms
for RGB
So far we’ve only encountered
histograms that show ‘brightness
levels’, which are really an
amalgamation of all three colour
channels: red, green and blue (RGB). LOW-KEY HISTOGRAM
In black & white images these levels
equate to shades of grey. In colour ABOVE The red, green and blue graphs here show highlights and shadows in a colour image.
photography, though, many cameras
now give the option of showing well as for confirming that colour the three graphs aligned neatly over
histograms for the individual red, balance is accurate. Take a picture of the top of each other exactly – if
green and blue channels. a grey card and you’ll see a sharp your camera’s white-balance is OK.
Individual colour channel peak in the normal histogram For coloured areas (such as the
histograms can be useful for showing corresponding to this one brightness sky) one colour may be separated
which colour is responsible for a level. Switch over to the three-colour from the other two (the blue
blown highlight or clipped shadow, as RGB histogram and you should see histogram, in this example). ABOVE In a low-key image you might expect the histogram to look like
ALAN CAMPBELL
this – with shadow details lost off the left-hand side of the graph. This is
correct for an exposure where the mood is supposed to be dark.