A tachometer is an instrument designed to measure the speed of an object or substance.

The word is formed

from Greek roots: tachos, meaning speed, and metron, meaning measure. The traditional tachometer is laid out
as a dial, with a needle indicating the current reading and marking safe and dangerous levels. Recently, digital
tachometers giving a direct numeric output have become more common.

In its most familiar form, a tachometer measures the speed at which a mechanical device is rotating. A common
example is the tachometer found on automobile dashboards. In this application, the tachometer measures the
revolutions per minute (RPMs) of the engine drive shaft. It is important to monitor engine RPMs, as running the
engine at excessively high rates can drastically shorten engine life.

The traditional tachometer requires physical contact between the instrument and the device being measured. In
applications where this is not feasible for technical or safety reasons, it may be possible to use a laser
tachometer to take measurements from a distance. A laser tachometer works by pulsing a tight beam of light
against the rotating element. The rotating element will have a reflective spot, and the tachometer measures the
rate at which the light beam is reflected back. A laser tachometer can be a permanent part of the system, or it
can be handheld for occasional spot measurements.

Features & Applications:

The Testo RPM meter optically measures rpm with LED sighting and displays readings on a large backlit
display. It features a max/min function and can be use in a ventilators and shafts.

Features:

• Optical rpm measurement with LED sighting

• Max. / Min. values
• Incl. calibration certificate
• Protective cap for safe storage
• Including wrist strap and belt clip

Spec Summary

Operating
32 to +122 °F
temperature:
Battery type: 2 Type AAA batteries
Battery life: 20 hr
Dimensions: 4.5 x 1.7 x 1 in.
±(0.02 %of rdg. + 1
Accuracy:
Digit)
0.1 rpm (100 to
999.9 rpm) 1 rpm
Resolution:
(1000 to 29.999
rpm)

Your Price:
$186.95

THREE WAYS TO CALIBRATE A MECHANICAL TACH:

Most tachs are either 2310 RPM or 2566 RPM. That means that, if your tach is accurate, and if you run an hour
at that RPM, your counter will read (you guessed it) one hour.

First Method:

Date sent: Thu, 25 Jul 1996

Subject: re: firewall, tach check

The only problem with fire wall forward is over speeding the engine. Above 8,000 feet you don't have enough
air pressure to get high mp's. You can however be running the engine faster that you think you are.

The mechanical tachs we use are notorious for reading low. The older they get the more slippage sets in. You
can check you tach real easy. Follow these steps.

1. Most tachs are either 2310 rpm or 2566 rpm. Our Mooneys have the 2310 flavor. If you are not sure then
time your tach. Set your rpm to 2310, if it takes 6 minutes and 0 seconds to roll over one tenth on the counter
drum then you have the 2310 version.

2. Now set the tach to nice round number like 2400. Time how long it takes to turn over a one tenth digit.

3. Divide the indicated time by the actual elapsed time, multiply the result by 2310 and you'll arrive at the actual
rpm of the engine.

I'll bet you are reading 50 rpm low. The other downside of over speeding is using up your accessories.
Lycoming engines run vacuum pumps at 1.3 shaft rpm. Brad Farrar bfarrar@flash.net
Fort Worth, TX (817) 927-2613

Second Method:

(This is actually the same as the first method)

During cruise, adjust engine speed to an easy number, like 2400.

Make a chart of actual time vs. tach time.

On the ground, convert the actual time to 10ths (to match the tach time, which is also in 10ths.

since (for any given pair of numbers):

(elapsed clock time) (base RPM of tach)

______________________ = __________________________________

(change in tach time) (indicated RPM during the trial)

then
(elapsed clock time)(indicated RPM)

____________________________________ = (base RPM of tach)

(change in tach time)

Now, compare the calculated (base RPM of tach) to 2310 RPM and 2566 RPM. Unless your tach is way off, it
should closely match one of those numbers. If it is, or you can read the base RPM from the case, the difference
between your calculated base RPM and the base number on the case is your tach error.

By way of example, if your calculated base RPM is 2490 and you have a 2566 tach, you are reading
approximately 76 RPM slow, or 3% slow.

Third Method:

Borrow a strobe tach and divide by the number of prop blades to get actual RPM.