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Module 1 - SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENTS

A dressmaker needs tools and equipment to sew a garment. As a beginner, you should know the
various tools and equipment and their uses in sewing. It is a basic knowledge that may help you doing a
task well.

Learning Content
Classification of Sewing Tools and Equipment

A. Measuring Tools
- used for taking body measurement, drafting pattern and measuring fabric.

Ruler. A small ruler about 30 Tape measure. This is used for taking
centimeters long used for marking body measurements and for drafting
straight lines and used to measure patterns, altering and laying out the
short distances. pattern on the fabric. It is 60 inches or
152 centimeters long, made of
nonstretchable material, numbered on
both sides and it have small metal tips
at each end to prevent fraying.

Seam gauge. This is used for


measuring and marking short
distances, such as hem, seam and
tucks. Small pieces of stiff cardboard
may be used for marking gauges or a
small metal gauge may be bought for
this purpose.

Hem Maker. This is an accurate


guide for measuring and marking
hemlines. A foot rule may be used if
an adjustable hem marker is not
available.

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B. Drafting Tools
- Tools as a guide in drafting lines in pattern making.

French curve. This is used for


Hip curve. This is used for
shaping the neckline, armholes and
shaping the hip, skirt hemline and
collars. It is made of plastic, wood a
other long curved lines. It is
and metal.
available in plastic, wood and
metal.

L-square or Tailor’s square. This


is used for drawing perpendicular
lines and square corners. It is also
known as proportional square. It
C. Marking Tools
hasthe
- tools needed to transfer symbols and lines from two arms:pieces
pattern the long armfabric.
to the and the
short arm that composed of
different divisions.

Tailor’s chalk- used for marking Tracing Wheel- used to transfer


directly on the fabric. Sharpen the markings from one side to the other
chalk edge often to produce thin lines side of the wrong side of the fabric
for better accuracy in marking. with the tracing paper.

Dressmaker’s carbon paper- used Pencil, chalk pencils- used for


with a tracing wheel to transfer making small marks and drafting
construction marks from the pattern patterns.
to the cloth. It is available in white
and other colors.

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b. for hand sewing- Choose one that is easiest
Pins-
to use.used
Crewel
to hold
needles
the pattern
have longer
when eyes
layingand
outmay
on
Pin Cushion- used to hold pins and needles,
the
be fabric
easier and
to use
usedthan
to hold
sharpfabric
needles.
while sewing.
Crewel
small cushion to keep pins and needles. It is
Use
needles
rustproof
are suitable
pins, which
for are
regular
fine, smooth,
sewing and
usually filled with wool.
sharp.
embroidery.
They should
Sharp needles
be clean.are used for hemming
and long basting.

D. Cutting Tools - used for cutting out the fabric pieces, trimming, clipping and
other detail work.
Thimble- used to push needle, protects the
middle finger from being pricked while sewing.

Shears- used for cutting out


fabrics. It has long blades and
two handles shaped differently.

Needles – a pointed metal with an eye to carry thread and sew


Scissors- twofor
used fabrics together.
trimming,
clipping and cutting threads.
a. for machine work- The kind of the needle
F. Sewing Equipment depends upon the kind b. of for
fabric andsewing-
thread used.
hand Choose one that is easiest
- these are machines used for sewing.
For fine sheer fabrics such as georgette, use a finer
to use. Crewel needles have longer eyes and may
needle. No. 11 would be appropriate. For
be easier to use than sharp needles. Crewel
lightweight fabrics suchneedles
as poplin, areusesuitable
no. 14. For
for regular sewing and
medium, lightweight fabrics like denims use no.
embroidery. Sharp needles are used for hemming
16.For coarseSeam Ripper
or heavy fabrics.– Use
a short- bladed
a coarse needle.
and long basting.
No. 18 or 19 would be appropriate.
tool, used to remove incorrect
machine seams or stitches.

Pins- used to hold the pattern when laying out on


the fabric and used to hold fabric while sewing.
Use rustproof pins, which are fine, smooth, and
sharp. They should be clean.

Ordinary
Industrial sewing
machine.
machine.
This This
is kind
the
traditional
of machinesewing
can be machine
found on that
factories;
can beit
used
is a heavy
electrically
equipment
and manually.
used for sewing.
Pin Cushion- used to hold pins and needles,
small cushion to keep pins and needles. It is
usually filled with wool.

Thread- the kind of thread is determined by the


color and weight of the fabric. It should either
match the fabric or be a shade darker. A supply
Thimble-
of colored used
threadstomust
push needle,
be on protects
hand for the
marking
middle fingerThreads
and basting. from being
are pricked whileorsewing.
sold in balls spools.
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Module 2 - SEWING MACHINE PARTS
A sewing machine is an important equipment used in sewing. Knowing the different parts and
functions of this machine will enable you to make sewing projects.

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Major Parts of the Sewing Machine

Head – the main part of the sewing machine.

1. Spool pin – It is a metal bar that holds the spool of the thread in place.
2. Stitch regulator – It regulates and controls the length of the stitches per inch. Also
use to look stitches.
3. Bobbin winder – holds the bobbin while the thread is being wind.

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.

4. Thread take-up-lever – it pulls and pushes thread to stitch easily.


5. Upper tension regulator – it controls the tightness or looseness of the thread.
6. Face plate – it covers the needle bar and the presser bar; it is located at the left
side of the head.
7. Presser bar lifter – it raises and lowers down the presser foot.

8. Presser bar – it holds the presser foot.


9. Presser foot – it holds the fabric in place while sewing.
10. Needle clamp – it holds the needle in the needle bar.
11. Needle bar – it is a metal bar where the needle is attached.
12. Thread guides – it holds the thread in proper way to prevent the thread from
knotting.

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.
13. Slide plate – it covers the bobbin and the bobbin case shelves.
14. Feed dog – it is a tooth-like metal that moves the fabric while you are sewing.
15. Throat plate – it covers the feed dog.
16. Balance wheel – It is a wheel that is used to start the operation of the sewing
machine.
17. Stop motion – It is located at the center part of the balance wheel. If tighten the
machine is in motion, if loosen the sewing machine will not function.

Lower parts of the machine

19. Treadle – drives the drive wheel through the pitman rod; it is controlled by the feet
to make the drive wheel move.
20. Pitman rod – connects the treadle to the drive wheel.
21. Drive wheel – drives the balance wheel and controls the movement of the sewing
Machine

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Module 3 - BODY MEASUREMENTS
The key for a well-fitted garment primarily depend on the careful and accuracy in taking body
measurements. Place tape measure or cord around the waistline to get the exact location of the waistline.
Use tape measure when taking body measurements. Before taking the body measurements, see to it that
pockets are empty to take accurate measure.

Taking Body Measurements

Shoulder
Waist length– measured
– taken from
from the
onebase of the
tip of
Chestmeasurement
Bustline – taken across –taken
the chest
aroundlevel
the body
shoulder
the back passing
neck acrosstothe
down thebase of the neck
by passing
between over
thethe highest and
bustline pointshoulder.
of the bust.
to the other tip of the shoulder.
waistline.

Apex
Apexheight
distance
– taken
– taken
fromfrom one of
the base tipthe
Front
Acrossback
upper length
neck
of the down
bust ––taken
taken
to the
to the horizontally
from
point
other the upper
tip of the at the
the bust.
bust.
center
base ofofthe
theneck
upper
passing
back part
to the
of highest
the body
between
point of the bust
shoulder
downandto the
bustline.
waistline.

Waistline
Hipline measurement
measurement– –takentakenaround 8
the
around
biggest
the smallest
part of the
part
buttocks.
of the waist.
Sleeve
Sleevelength
width– taken
– taken
from the
around the
shoulder
hemlinetip
of point
the sleeve.
down to desired
length.

Armhole
Skirt length
– taken
– measured
around from
the armpit.
the
waistline down to the desired length.

Module 4 - DRAFTING THE FOUNDATION PATTERN

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Pattern drafting is a basic skill that the beginners should learn in sewing a garment. It is the
process involved in making a pattern, which will be your guide in cutting the fabric for sewing purposes.
Accurate body measurements is essential to produce a good basic pattern.
Patterns are used for different reasons. These are: 1) as a time saving device, 2) for uniformity, and
3) for economy.
There are three kinds of pattern namely, foundation pattern, construction pattern, and final pattern.
1. Foundation pattern- is sometimes called “sloper” or block pattern. It is a basic pattern without
allowances and alteration.
2. Construction pattern- is the process of pattern alteration from the foundation pattern to the desired
design.
3. Final pattern- is provided with the necessary symbols that will guide the cutter on
on how to layout the pattern on the cloth. Symbols for darts, seam allowances, grainline,
centerfold, and other markers are used.

Lesson 1 Drafting the


Back Bodice Foundation Pattern

A. Tools and Materials Needed in Drafting the Back Bodice Foundation Pattern
Tape measure
L-square
French curve
Pencil

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting the Back Bodice Foundation Pattern


Shoulder width
Bustline measurement
Waistline measurement
Acrossback measurement
Bust distance measurement
Waist length measurement

C. Steps in Drafting the Back Bodice Foundation Pattern

1. A is the starting point, square out both ways. See to it that the two lines are perpendicular

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to each other.
2. A B is 3 centimeters downward, square out point B.
3. A C is 1 centimeter downward.
4. B D is 18 centimeters downward or scye measurement
(scye measurement = 1/6 bustline measurement plus 2 centimeters), square out point D.
5. E is the center of point B and D, square out point E.
6. A F is the waist length measurement, square out point F.
7. A G is 7 centimeters, connect point G and point C with the use of French curve for back neckline.
8. B H is 1/2 shoulder width measurement, connect the shoulder slope points with the use of ruler.
9. E I is ½ across back measurement.
10. D J is ¼ bustline measurement, shape back armhole by connecting point H, I, and J
with the use of french curve.
11. F K is 1/4 waistline measurement plus 3 centimeters for the dart, connect point J and
point K with the use of ruler.
12. F-1 is 1/2 apex distance, square up point 1 to line D J to locate point 2.
13. 2-3 is 3 centimeters.
14. 1-4 is 11/2 centimeters to the left, connect 3 and point 4.
15. 1-5 is 11/2 centimeters to the right, connect point 3 and point 5.
16. Trace points C, B, E, F, K, J, I, H, G up to C as ½ Back Pattern.

Note: Line C, B , E, D and F is a centerfold.

- symbol for centerfold

BACK FOUNDATION
PATTERN

Lesson 2 - Drafting
the Front Bodice
Foundation

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Pattern

A. Tools and Materials Needed in Drafting the Front Bodice Foundation Pattern
Tape measure
L-square
French curve
Pencil

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting the Front Bodice Foundation Pattern


Shoulder width
Bustline measurement
Waistline measurement
Chest measurement
Bust height measurement
Bust distance measurement
Front length

C. Steps in Drafting the Front Foundation Pattern


1. A is the starting point, square out both ways.
2. A B is 3 centimeters downward, square out point B for the shoulder slope.
3. A C is 7 centimeters downward.
4. B D is 18 centimeters or the scye measurement
(scye measurement = 1/6 bustline measurement plus 2 centimeters ) downward, square out point D.
5. E is the center of distance B and D, square out point E.
6. A F is the front length measurement, square out point F.
7. A G is 7 centimeters, shape the front neckline by connecting point G and point C with
the use of french curve.
8. B H is ½ shoulder width measurement, connect point G and point H with the use of ruler.
9. E I is ½ chest measurement plus 1 centimeter.
10. D J is ¼ bustline measurement plus 2 centimeters, shape the front armhole by
connecting point H, I and J using french curve.
11. F K is ¼ waistline measurement plus 3 centimeters for the dart, connect point J and
point K with a straight line using ruler.
12. F- 1 is ½ apex distance, square up point 1 to line D J to locate point 2.
13. G- 3 is apex height measurement.
14. 1 - 4 is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point 3 and point 4 with the use of ruler.
15. 1 - 5 is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point 3 and point 5 using ruler.
16. 6 is the center of line J and K, connect point 3 and point 6.
17. 3 - 7 is 2 centimeters.
18. Measure line J and K of the back and front patterns. The difference will be the width

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of the underarm dart, ½ is for point 6 to 8 and the other ½ is for point 6 to 9. Connect
point 7 – 8 and point 7 – 9.
19. Fold the dart following line 7 and 9 to line 7 and 8. Connect point J and K for the final line.
20. Unfold the dart.

Front

Foundation Pattern

Lesson 3 - Drafting the Sleeve Foundation


Pattern

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Drafting the Sleeve Foundation Pattern
The sleeve is a part of garment, which covers the arm. There are two basic classifications of
sleeve. They are the set-in sleeve and the cut-in-one with the bodice. Set-in sleeve is set into the armhole
of the garment. For example, the basic sleeve, darted sleeve, puffed sleeve, and the bell sleeve. Cut-in-
one with the bodice sleeve includes kimono sleeve, extended sleeve and other variations.

A. Tools and Materials Needed in Drafting the Sleeve Foundation Pattern


Tape measure
L-square
French curve
Pencil

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting the Sleeve Foundation Pattern


Sleeve length measurement
Sleeve girth measurement
Armhole measurement

C. Steps in Drafting the Sleeve Pattern


1. A is the starting point, square out both ways.
See to it that the two lines are perpendicular to each other.
2. B A is the sleeve length measurement, square out point B.
3. A C is the sleeve scye measurement, 10 – 14 centimeters.

Standard Measurement for the Sleeve Scye Measurement


Bust Measurement Scye Measurement Bust Measurement Scye Mesurement
72 cm - 76 cm 10 ½ cm 85 cm - 92cm 12 ½ cm
77 cm - 84 cm 11 ½ cm 93 cm and above 14 cm

4. A D is ½ armhole measurement intersecting line C, connect point A and D with a straight line.
5. B E is ½ sleeve width, connect point D and E.
6. F is the center point of line A D.
7. G is the center point of point A and point F.
8. G H is 1 ½ centimeters upward, connect point A, H, and F with the use of French curve.
9. I is the center point of point F and D.
10. J I is 1.0 centimeter downward, connect point F, J, and D with the use of french curve.

Back upper curve Front upper curve

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.

Back Part of the Sleeve Front Part of the Sleeve


Foundation Pattern Foundation Pattern

This is the appearance of the sleeve foundation pattern, if it is opened. The curved line A, H1 and
F1 of the front part is lower than the curved line A, H, F of the back part. Follow the illustrations above.

Lesson 4 - Drafting the Skirt Foundation Pattern

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Drafting the Skirt
Skirt is a part of garment worn from waistline down to the desired length. It is a women’s garment. It
varies in different types and styles. They are the following; 1. Fitted skirt, 2. Circular skirt, 3. Pleated
skirt; a. all-around pleats, b. box pleats, c. knife pleats, d. electric pleats, and e. pleats with yoke. This
lesson will teach you how to draft the skirt foundation pattern.

A. Tools and Materials Needed in Drafting the Skirt Foundation Pattern


Tape measure
L-square
Hip curve
Pencil

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting the Skirt Foundation Pattern


Waistline measurement
Hipline measurement
Skirt length measurement

C. Steps in Drafting the Skirt Foundation Pattern:


1. A is the starting point, square out both ways.
2. A B is 18 centimeters downward, square out point B.
3. A C is skirt length measurement, square out point C.
4. A D is ¼ waistline measurement plus 3 centimeters for the dart.
5. B E is ¼ hipline measurement, connect point D and point E with the use of hip curve
extending upward.
6. C F is equals to line B E, connect point E and point F with straight line using L-square.
7. F G is 2 ½ centimeters, connect point E and G with a straight line.
8. G H is 1 centimeter upward.
9. I is the center of line C F. Curve the hemline connecting points I and H using hip curve.
10. D J is 1 centimeter upward.
11. A - 1 is ½ apex distance inward, square down point 1 to locate point 2 at line B E,
connect point 1 and J using hip curve.
12. 1 - 3 is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point 3 and point 2.
13. 1 - 4 is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point 4 and 2.
14. Trace points A, B, C, I. H, E, J up to A as ¼ Skirt Pattern.

Note: Line A, B, and C is the center fold.

- Symbol of centerfold.

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Skirt Foundation
Pattern Skirt

Lesson 5 - Drafting the Convertible Collar


Pattern

Drafting the Convertible Collar

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A collar is a part of garment, which is attached to the neckline. Collars may be classified into
two. They are attached collar and continuous collar. Attached collar is a type of collar that is designed
and attached to any shape of neckline. It may either be flat or rolled. Continuous collar is a part of the
bodice.
One of the basic and simplest type of collar is convertible. It offers a bit more structure to a shirt
or blouse than the Peter Pan, but is not as tailored as a banded shirt collar. It can be worn open or closed
(hence the name), and looks very nice in a contrast fabric. Worn open, the collar creates a lapel for a
tailored, almost jacket-like opening. Worn closed, it make look a bit like a Peter Pan. But, unlike the
Peter Pan, this collar rolls at the neck and does not lay flat against the body of the blouse.

A. Tools and materials needed in drafting the convertible collar pattern


Tape measure
L-square
Hip curve
Pencil

B. Measurements Needed in Drafting the Convertible Collar Pattern


Collar length
Collar width

C. Steps in Drafting the Convertible Collar:


1. A is the starting point, square out both ways.
2. A B is the collar width, the standard measurement of the collar width is 7 centimeters,
square outpoint B.
3. B C is ½ collar length or ½ neckline measurement square up point C to locate point D.
4. E is the center point of line A D.
5. F is the center point of line B C.
6. C G is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point F and point G with the use of ruler.
7. D H is 1½ centimeters, connect point E and point H.
8. H I is 1 ½ centimeters, connect point I and point G with a straight line.
9. Trace points A, B, F, G, I, H, E up to A as ½ collar pattern.

Convertible Collar Pattern

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Convertible Collar Pattern

Definition of Terms

Accuracy – the exactness of a measured distance or circumference.


Adjust – change present setting as in adjusting tension.
Altering – changing portion of a garment so that it fits the body.
Armhole – each of two openings in a garment through which the wearer puts their arms.

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Crewel needle – a long-eyed needle used especially for embroidery.
Drafting – is the process of laying out and marking out lines and measurement on the
pattern paper to attain the desired design of the garment to be constructed.
Fabric – the cloth used in making garments.
Hemline – the marked line at the bottom of the garment where the hem is turned.
Lift – moving upward as in a presser foot lifter.
Measurement – a systematic procedure of determining the quantity or extend of
the entire measurable dimension.
Neckline – the edge of a woman's garment at or below the neck, used with reference to
its height or shape.
Pattern – a piece of paper usually one-half of the body parts used as a guide in cutting the garments.
Pattern drafting – A method of drawing a pattern correctly based upon a size requirement.
Perpendicular line – two lines whose dihedral angles meet at a right angle.
Replace – putting something new in the place of an old or damaged part.
Seam – a line along which two pieces of fabric are sewn together in a garment or other article.
Sewing machine – a textile machine used to stitch fabric and other material with thread.
Sewing tool – the instrument that is aid in accomplishing a sewing task.
Square out – is the process of projecting a perpendicular line from the other line.
Tension – the force that is applied by the machine on your thread.
Trace – is the process of transferring line or marking from one side to another of the fabric or pattern.
Tucks – a flattened, stitched fold in a garment or material, typically one of several
parallel folds put in a garment for shortening, tightening, or decoration.
Wrong side – the reverse side of a fabric.

References

Technology and Home Economics II; Epifania V. Tabbada; Phoenix Publishing House, Inc.

Career Pathways in Technology and Livelihood Education First Year; Xandra Mae E. Caballero;
Sunshine Interlinks Publishing House, Inc.

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Technology and Home Economics SEDP Series Printed in the Philippines by Insular Printing
Corporation

Home Economics Module for Fourth Year High School; Cruz, Duran, etc.; Adriana Publishing
Company, Inc.

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