August 03 - Dick goes on the defensive.

Dick Bradsell & Tony Conigliaro

August 2003

Dick : I always expected this to happen. That I would get to a certain age and point in my
career whereby although I am forward thinking, I am left defending my way of making drinks.

Tony : What exactly do you mean?

Dick: Well, let me explain. How do you make a Mojito?

Tony : Firstly, you have to realise that the ingredients we have in this country are very different
to those in Cuba. I take this into account in my recipe where possible. For example, I choose to
use 15ml of fresh lime juice and 10ml of lemon to recreate the taste sensation of Cuban limes,
which are essentially a cross between our lemons and limes both in terms of looks and taste.
They are slightly softer in taste too, so by combining the two citrus fruits, we are given a more
rounded taste. The fleshy citrus compliments the mellowness of the mint, whereas its
sharpness compliments the higher notes in the mint, of which I use about 6 leaves. I have
always liked Wayne Collins' inclusion of mint stalks since, as he once pointed out, they too are
full of flavour. Cuban mint is also slightly different, it has a more mellow flavour whereas our
mint is spearmint-ier. I also use 15ml of sugar syrup and 50ml of Cuban light rum, in my recipe,
which I finish off with crushed ice and a dash of soda, if so desired.

Dick : Have you ever had that disputed?

Tony ony: Sure, plenty of times. This is mainly because in Cuba it is made so differently.
Essentially, it is made like a Collins with mint in it - ask for a Ron Collins in Cuba and that's
what you get. Drinks like that in this country would taste insipid but, when you are in that
climate, the inclusion of all the sparking water is probably quite wise and they also benefit from
all that luscious mint. In this case it becomes a matter of circumstance that a Mojito is made in
a different way. Our version rather than becoming a revision as such, has become something
which works better in our circumstances. Even though it may be disputed initially, it is
appreciated once tasted.

Dick : Well, my experience of Mojitos started in the Zanzibar at the cusp of the 1970s/80s. The
usual happened, with a fascinated customer describing it to you. We bought in the mint and
blended the drink, making more a kind of frozen mint Daiquiri I suppose. It was quite horrid if I
remember. We read books to find the right way to do it and came up with the method you
describe. Of course the dispute nowadays has to be about the goddamn sugar. Sugar
fetishists are everywhere. I am fast becoming a sugar academic. I am going to lobby the UN to
deliver liquid sugar to Cuba to save them from grittiness.

Tony : Oh help! Not the sugar argument raising its ugly head againÉ

Dick : Isn't this just another pointless battle for authenticity? The customer now thinks to do it
right you have to use the overpowering flavoured brown sugar ground into lime bits with mint.

Tony : Yurgh... the Mojirinia.

Dick : Hear ye the wise words of Dale de Groff: I understand now why he counters debate with
the statement; "Was it a good drink?" THAT is the point.