Professional Documents
Culture Documents
KEEP
By Hugh Norman
SELECTION
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Gameness is a point of
consideration as this is the
element, which will determine how
sincere a cock will be in the way
he tries to do what you have
trained him to do. It has often
been said with wisdom that a cock
does not hit with is feet, he hits
with his heart. This is just, of
course, a figure of speech but
there is truth in it. A cock will
indicate his gameness by how he
tries to annihilate an opponent.
If he is strong yet makes a weak
and feeble effort, he is poorly
trained or short on gameness, and
it is the job of the trainer to
determine which. Now as for a
completely game strain, there may
not be one, but it is the pit
behavior that we are concerned
about. If a cock claims, scores,
strikes and gives you an honest
effort under the pressure of
battle, you should not worry about
what he does beyond this since this
answers all practical purposes. I
do believe that a gamecock will
make an honest effort to annihilate
an opponent every second that he is
aware of his presence. And he will
fight an uphill fight the same as
when he is ahead. If one owns
gamecocks, he has a fair percentage
of his fights won before he begins.
It is a very good guess that
highflying, defensive fighting,
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cocks which act wild and shy are
not as game as the opposite type.
CONFORMATION
Conformation is a very
controversial point, but
performance has established a
number of facts, which must be
reckoned with. To look at a cock
from side view, if his head,
neck, and back lines form an
angle with the tail greater than
100 degrees, he is an oriental
type no doubt. His tail is too
low to the ground and if this
open space between his head and
tail is much less than 45
degrees, it is possible that he
is squirrel tailed. Either of
these is objectionable. His top
silhouette must range between
these two angles aforementioned.
The legs must come out from the
front position in relation to
the whole body but not an
oriental type of projection. If
the legs are far back, cock
pitches forward easily and if
they are too far forward, a cock
has a tendency to rock
backwards. It must be a center
of gravity position, considering
the entire body a proned
fighting position. A cock that
is extremely wide through the
back with massive legs and hips
is usually a short bodied cock
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like roundheads, blues, etc.
which have a poor confirmation
and roll around in their
fighting and lack power.
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the opposite. Let us say this:
Everything which resembles a
long legged crane, a short pudgy
dunghill chicken, a draft horse,
a big dumb coarse football
tackle or a big pudgy wrestler
is poor conformation for a
gamecock. Remember the falcon
and hawk swift, maneuverable,
deadly and more powerful than
any feathered opponent according
to the weight.
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pit cock unless he is a fighting
cock, as he is usually a loser.
FLESH
TEMPERAMENT
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Temperament is not to be
ignored, as this is a vital part
of the cock's makeup. The same
as he inherits his color, red,
gray, black or blue, he too
inherits his temperament. It is
wise to avoid birds with
extremely high temperaments this
is sometimes indicative of fine
brood yard qualities rather than
pit. Just a word of caution, do
not confuse temperament with
alertness. Alertness and being
wide-awake will come under
control when it is handled
properly, but temperament is
usually always explosive. It is
a part of his inherited makeup,
the same as color. Disposition
relates to the individual and is
usually a result of his
environment. It too generally
is a result of the way he has
been handled and responded to
it. This too can become a
seemingly permanent part of him
but this can be taken away from
him or added to by the way he is
treated. It is wise to discard
all cocks with ugly disposition
and stubborn tendencies.
NATURAL STRENGTH
PRECONDITION
Since it is necessary to
suggest some equipment in
preconditioning it can be brief:
An open air pen from 5 to 6 feet
wide, 8 to 10 feet long and 7 to
9 feet high with wind breakers
or blinds all around the sides
from the ground up for 2 to 2
1/2 feet. The top should be
half roofed under which a T-type
roost pole may be built which
reaches to within 30 to 36
inches of the roof portion.
There should be a fresh clean 4-
inch litter of corn shucks or
straw over the floor. Never
should this litter be over 6
inches. An easily clean water
can, can be nailed to one end of
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the T-type perch. The T-type
perch should be so arranged that
the cock never touch the sides
or top of the pen. Since the
pen is blinded around the sides
the cock will rise to the perch
to observe his surroundings, and
upon doing so, he will come down
to see what can be done about
it, thus he continues up and
down.
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One must exercise judgment to
not overfeed a thin cock and to
not underfeed a fat cock, as
there is danger in either
extreme.
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FEED CONSUMPTION
COCKHOUSE CONDITIONS
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After two weeks
precondition, we can place the
cock in the cockhouse. Now, let
us make a survey. Have you
eliminated lice and worms? Has
the cock's health met the
standards? Is he a fighting
cock? Is he a gamecock? Is he a
well-conformed cock? Re-read
this keep from beginning to end
with intelligence and
understanding, as this is the
yardstick with which you hope to
measure your success or failure
in the pit. Inasmuch as you
have placed the cocks in the
cockhouse from the precondition
pen, let us use this as a five-
day period to accustom the cock
to the inside of the cockhouse,
since this will be his new
surroundings for about two weeks
after this introductory stay.
Place the cocks in the stalls at
night for the night and morning
feed. Take each cock from his
night stall to the work board,
exercise him a few times, rub
lightly and generously, but be
sure never to make a false move
with him or excite him. Do this
twice each day, morning and
night, and return him to his
precondition pen for an all day
stay with the same precondition
feed and routine. The five-day
period, if wisely used, should
prevent your spending time with
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a cock that will later train
unsatisfactorily.
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position of about 45-degree
angle. Thus he will step one
foot slightly across the other.
This is his stepping motion,
which increases the power of
inward blows of a gamecock.
This 45-degree angle of the run
may be called "quartering" the
run.
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the floor, and he will climb it
hurriedly to his accustomed
resting place using his wings
and entire body fully. The cock
must always be tossed with his
head and front of body upward
toward top of plane upon which
he has become accustomed to
sitting. If he hesitated to
climb, a light gentle pull
downward on his tail will teach
him. If he does not respond to
this, he is exhausted, sick, and
stupid or outsmarting you,
either of which is bad. A few
of these climbs are a great deal
of work. Be careful. When a
cock opens his mouth enough to
insert a grain of corn the flat
way, this is time to stop and
look our bird over.
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across cock's back as if to rub
raise cock upward with right
hand, left hand resting and
securing cock between hands.
Assuming that you are standing
within two feet of your work
table while all the preparation
is being made for the stretch,
pull the cock back toward your
right hip and with an upward
circular motion with the edge of
the table in mind, point the
cock's feet toward this point on
the table which you have had in
mind. Now hesitate or stop the
forward motion of the cock
within 4 to 6 inches of the
table and the cock will reach
full length with his legs and
will try to pull himself with
his wing power to the table.
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period. An added feature to the
stretch exercise is a little
easier accomplished and should
not be overdone. It is this; as
you have through working and
rubbing your cock and are
starting towards the stalls or
scratch pens, you may put the
cock on the floor, take him
gently by the tail and lift a
small portion of his weight by
his tail, walking him at the
same time from you and you will
find his toes slightly touching
the ground; he is now digging or
stretching to carry himself
forward. You may let him pull
himself with your giving gently
to his pull until you feel that
he is relaxing a bit. A little
of this exercise has very
definite merit but should be
suspended the last three days of
the keep.
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down the back so firmly that his
legs kick downward and stretches
his neck twice its normal
length. Easy and gentle does
the job. Remember this about
rubbing and working a cock;
common sense is an abused
phraseology and yet it has its
place, but let us say it this
way. Consider the cock as to
what he does for himself and to
himself under natural
circumstances. He can chase a
hen a half a day when he wishes
to, but I say when he wishes to.
If a cock does not wish to
cooperate with you in his work,
his breathing is heavy and
thick; he is wild, stubborn, fat
sick or overworked. Maybe you
are advancing your work too
rapidly. Observe him closely as
you will have to be the judge.
Patience, consideration and time
will usually bring about good
results. Remember too, a cock
does not necessarily share your
zeal and zest to win a
cockfight. He does not know how
many days he has to get ready
nor how much you wish to whip
and opponent. Do not let your
strength, energy or ambition run
away with you to the extent that
you will overwork or abuse your
cocks. Regularity, system,
perseverance, patience and good
judgment are the basis of the
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formula to successfully training
gamecocks.
It is absolute folly to
assume that one can train ten
cocks for fourteen days and
raise the curtain at the end of
fourteen days finding ten cocks
ready for battle. Most usually
you will find five or six of the
ten cocks, which will be ready
and give a creditable
performance. The others need
another week or two and some
cocks may never get ready. Then
there is the cock to consider
which may get ready to fight
once in a lifetime. If you have
these very difficult cocks to
train, they become a nuisance,
and do not deserve the time and
effort given to them. However,
these difficult cocks can be
trained when understanding what
you are trying to do.
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does not seem wide-awake, it is
well to discard him. After a
cock is pointed for battle, he
is usually his best for six to
eight hours afterwards, but
there are frequent exceptions.
HEELING A COCK
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preconditioned pen as previously
described. If you stay on the
job, and exercise your best
judgment with your cocks, they
may be fought seven or eight
times a year if not badly
injured and retrained each time
if this plan is pursued.
FIRST DAY
SECOND DAY
THIRD DAY
FOURTH DAY
FIFTH DAY
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Three stretches, ten flirts,
ten climbs, fifteen runs. Cod
liver oil pellet in the morning
and same feed and work routine as
before. Work night and morning.
SIXTH DAY
SEVENTH DAY
EIGHTH DAY
NINTH DAY
TENTH DAY
TWELFTH DAY
THIRTEENTH DAY
FOURTEENTH DAY
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times can be discontinued last
three days. Stir these well into
your feed mixture and add a
little condensed milk, but
discontinue milk after tenth day
of keep.
A mixture of one-half
condensed milk and one-half water
may be given generously to
replace drinking water for first
ten days of keep. Give your fat
cocks the milk mixture one day
and plain clean water the next,
however your thin cocks may have
the milk mixture every day for
the first ten days of the keep.
Bear in mind that cups and feed
pans must be well cleaned and
sunned when milk is used. After
working cocks in the morning for
first ten days of keep, a cod
liver oil pellet may be given. A
pellet, which is high in Vitamin
A and D, is necessary. After the
ninth day you may begin to feed
white of a hard-boiled egg at
night only the tenth and eleventh
day at the rate of one white of
egg to every four cocks. The
twelfth and thirteenth day white
of an egg may be fed twice each
day, night and morning. In same
proportion as mentioned above.
All feed should be washed before
feeding but well drained. When
milk is being fed, it can be
added after washing feed. Milk
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is to be discontinued in all
forms after the tenth day. Oats
may be soaked in water from the
tenth day on until the fourteenth
day. Water should be kept before
the cock all through the keep
except the last two days. The
twelfth and thirteenth day after
you have fed night and morning,
place a cup of water, before the
cocks and let them have what they
want, then remove the water and
close the cocks up. Try to
encourage moisture through
drinking until the last two days
and particularly the last two
feeds. No water at all on fight
day. Never change water source
or type during your keep.
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