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The picture to the left is a high quality radio transmitter for the A.M.
broadcast band. The transmitter legally operates with "micro-power"
and will not set any distance records but, unlike simpler designs, the
frequency stays put and the fidelity is excellent. Although the
schematic looks somewhat complex, the circuitry is easy to build and
adjust for experimenters with a little "tweaking" experience. A simple
output meter confirms proper signal level and checks antenna tuning
while "on the air". Add an audio mixer, tape recorder, and perhaps a CD
player and have a near-professional micro-power station.
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Most values are not critical but a few choices must be made
carefully for best results. The output tank is tuned to the
crystal frequency by selecting the values from the chart above.
For example, for a 1 MHz transmitter, the chart indicates 500
pf and 35 uh. A 33uH and 550pF (470 + 82, perhaps) would be
a good start. This chart assumes that a 220 pf capacitor is
already connected between the collector and base of the
output transistor as indicated in the schematic so the indicated
capacitance is in addition to the 220 pf. A variable inductor or
capacitor will allow the tank to be fine-tuned for the maximum
meter reading with no antenna connected (a few volts with a
10 megohm voltmeter or about 50 microamps with a current
meter). After the antenna is connected, the loading inductor in
series with the antenna is selected for the minimum meter
reading (best antenna loading). (A 3 foot antenna will need
about 820 uH for a 1.6 MHz output frequency.) Longer
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antennas or higher frequencies need less inductance and
shorter antennas or lower frequencies will need more. The
meter reading should drop by more than half with a reasonably
good antenna but the reading can be ignored if sufficient
transmit range is achieved. The antenna, which is short
relative to the wavelength, is hard to match well because it has
a very low radiation resistance in series with a very small
capacitor. (The power dissipated in the radiation resistance is
the power that is transmitted.) The loading coil helps to
resonate out some of the series capacity resulting in more
antenna current and thus more radiated power. Some retuning
of the tank may be desirable when the loading coil value is
changed. A remote radio playing back through a baby monitor
or walkie-talkie makes a good signal quality monitor for
antenna tuning and positioning.
Note: The antenna in the picture above is just a short metal rod
from an old fireplace screen stuck through an important-
looking insulator strictly for appearance. It's really too short for
optimum range.
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The photo above shows a prototype built with metal transistors
(just for looks!) and with a few additions like the variable
capacitor in series with the crystal for fine tuning and the
variable inductor in the collector of the output transistor.
Circuit construction is mostly non-critical but a few points
should be observed. Ground-plane is not mandatory but it
helps control parasitic feedback elements when less than
perfect layout techniques are used. The two capacitors across
the base-collector leads of the diff-amp transistors should have
short leads. Bypass the 15 volt supply well, perhaps with
additional 1 uF capacitors not shown in the schematic. The 100
ohm emitter resistor in the modulator may be bypassed with a
22 ohm resistor in series with a 470 uf capacitor to increase
the modulation sensitivity to about 1 volt peak-to-peak which is
typical of many sources. Eliminating the 22 ohm resistor will
increase sensitivity to under 100 mv but the linearity will suffer
somewhat.
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An amplifying audio mixer may be added as shown in fig. 2 if
more than one audio source is to be used. The gain resistor
might be near 2.8k for typical 300 mv sources or considerably
higher for lower level sources. If the signal level is different for
each source then vary the 600 ohm resistors to compensate. A
larger resistor will reduce the gain. Set the main gain resistor
for the weakest source then increase the 600 ohm resistors in
the other channels for the proper balance. A fancy mixer panel
could be constructed with potentiometers in place of the
resistors. Remember that some op-amps are not sufficiently
fast to amplify high fidelity audio. For simplicity, choose an
internally-compensated audio op-amp such as the LM833.
Since the LM833 is a dual op-amp the second amp could be
used as a separate pre-amp for a microphone or other low-
level sources using the same schematic as the mixer. The
output of this amp simply feeds one of the mixer source inputs.
Applications:
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AM radios. Or talk between cars on a trip using the car radio for
reception.
Make a baby monitor that works with any AM receiver.
Transmit control tones to a number of cheap AM receivers for
unusual remote control applications.
Build a fully functional radio station for the kids - complete with vu
meters, slide faders, and an "on the air" light.
The Law
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(ISM) equipment, or by an incidental radiator.
(c) The operator of a radio frequency device shall be required to cease operating the
device upon notification by a Commission representative that the device is causing
harmful interference. Operation shall not resume until the condition causing the
harmful interference has been corrected.
(d) Intentional radiators that produce Class B emissions (damped wave) are
prohibited.
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be achieved. The connection of a properly loaded antenna will
further filter the radiated signal so the device should be well
inside the technical requirements.
Copyright, 1995-2002
Charles Wenzel
Improved Circuit
The following circuit is an improved version of the transmitter
above. It features a high Q pot core autotransformer that
provides a very high voltage to the antenna, greatly improving
the range and an improved crystal oscillator section. (Also
seephono oscillator for a tunable version.)
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The pot core is an 1811 size high-Q ferrite core with an AL of
250nH/T2 . Two complete turns are wound on the bobbin, a loop
is brought out for the tap, and 28 more turns are wound to
complete the coil. Notice the knot in one end of the wire to
help identify the ends after assembly. The bobbin is inserted in
the core halves, the core halves are held together with a weak
clamp (a strong clamp can break the core), and a couple of
drops of epoxy or hot melt glue are applied to the outside of
the core halves. Do not get glue on the faces of the core, the
halves must be held tightly together BEFORE glue is applied.
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The transformer Q combined with the turns ratio is selected to
give high antenna voltage without clipping on the peaks of the
modulation and without excessively limiting the bandwidth of
the transmitted signal. The output tuning capacitor is adjusted
for the maximum field strength and will be near 20 pF at the
top end of the band and near 80pF at 1 MHz. The diode/meter
circuit in the first design may be connected to the collector of
this new design but the tuner is adjusted for the maximum
meter reading.
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If you prefer to have a tunable transmitter, consider
the oscillator circuit below (second schematic). The AM radio
oscillator coil will give excellent stability. Simply connect the
output directly to the base of the leftmost NPN in the
differential amplifier and adjust the 500 ohm potentiometer to
get about 1 or 2 volts on the collector of the oscillator. The
circuit will work fine as-is at 15 volts but raising the emitter
resistor from 470 ohms to 1k will save a little power.
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from the antenna. (As you peak up a transmitter, you may
need to move the meter several times to keep it on scale.) The
MPSA18 may be replaced by other high gain NPN transistors, if
desired. This meter has an "expanded scale" in that it goes
from a zero reading to full scale over a fairly small signal level
change making fine tuning easy.
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Point-to-point wiring is fine for this low frequency circuit.
Remember, the meter DOES draw current when there is a
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meter reading above zero so don't leave it near the transmitter
for long periods of time if you value you battery!
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better output but it is hard to pick up significant range
improvements when only a few dB are a stake and the tuning
becomes more and more critical; major improvements just
aren't possible. I have read suggestions of different circuit
topologies and higher quality reactances to reduce circuit
losses but when you are done you will just have to add a
resistor to get the Q back down!
I should point out that starting with a higher supply voltage will
directly give more antenna voltage for a fixed Q. And, it may
be practical to make a low-loss non-resonant transformer to
get a higher antenna voltage with a given Q. I would bump up
the power supply voltage first, the transformer would be a
challenge! A high voltage mosfet or even a vacuum tube would
make an interesting output device for a high voltage version.
The same circuit might work fine simply by connecting the
output inductor to the higher voltage, leaving the rest of the
circuit connected to 15 volts and reducing the current by
increasing the 100 ohm in the emitter of the bottom transistor.
Adjust the current down to keep the transmitter legal.
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and can be tuned to any desired frequency near the top of the
AM band. Fidelity is surprisingly good considering the simplicity
and is suitable for transmitting "Golden Age of Radio" type
shows to a restored tube set.
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in series to achieve a much higher voltage on a few meter
length of wire but you won't get much range from this circuit.
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of the actual waveform since the audio signal can make the RF
look a bit distorted at the collector even though it isn't. Simply
placing a scope probe near the antenna is usually sufficient.
Play with the input level and 500 ohm pot to get the best
waveform but keep the input a little short of 100% modulation,
perhaps 90%. The1N914 (or similar diode), 0.1uF capacitor and
1 megohm resistor allow a digital voltmeter to monitor the
oscillator level. The best operating point will produce a meter
reading near 0.7 volts with no modulation. These parts may be
left out if the circuit is to be adjusted with a 'scope.
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Unfair Radio Transmitter
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at the opposite end of the long house. I'm sure it can be
received in the cave next door!
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the series combination of the two capacitors (shown as 8000
pF) must resonate with the inductance at the selected
frequency. The Q must be kept down to about 225 for
adequate bandwidth for typical talk radio programming (even
less for music). That Q value means that the losses in the
antenna circuit must be near 4,000 ohms, shunt. The 10 k
resistor shown is representative of a value that might be added
to bring the Q down to the right value. Don't worry about the
"loss" of signal power; it is unavoidable if the proper bandwidth
is to be maintained. Tuning and selection of loading
components will be discussed below. It turns out that the
maximum voltage swing that can be achieved at this Q with a
class-A driver is about 70 volts p-p at full modulation, so a
capacitive tap is used to cut that voltage in half, just right for a
24 volt power supply. 35 volts p-p swing on the collector will
bring the collector voltage down to about 6.5 volts, leaving
about 4.5 volts from collector to emitter.
The 180 ohm emitter resistor sets the current in the output
stage to about 10 mA or 5 mA per side. The stead-state
voltage across the output transistor is about 20 volts so the
power in that last transistor is 20 V x 5 mA = 100 mW, the
legal limit. You can't simply lower the 180 ohm resistor for
more power, the voltage swing will be too big.
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This image was taken with an oscilloscope probe connected
directly to the collector of the output transistor. The 22 uH
choke that provides bias to the collector of the output
transistor may be a higher value, typically 100 uH; I just
happened to have a large 22 uH at hand and the value isn't
critical. The low 22 uH value just reduces the effective
capacitance of the capacitors slightly, perhaps 5 %. The two
series 8000 pF capacitors are selected to resonate the loop at
the desired frequency. Tack in candidate values then add a
trimmer capacitor across the coil to see how you did. You can
also leave a trimmer capacitor in the circuit, if desired. I
discovered that my capacitors were slightly too big so I simply
paralleled a small 100 uH molded choke to lower the
inductance a bit. It turned out that this inductor had just the
right amount of loss to eliminate the need for a shunt resistor.
But, earlier, I used a trimmer capacitor and about 10 k to get
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the proper Q. If the loop is not sufficiently loaded, the sinewave
will begin to flatten on the top and bottom at full modulation,
at about 70 volts p-p. You can increase the Q (by reducing the
loading of the coil) to get more swing but your signal will sound
muffled. Just add a resistor across the coil until the waveform
looks like the one above. The voltage above suggests that the
circulating current in the coil is over 3 amps!
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The circuit is mounted in a standard plastic conduit box but the
interface to the loop was more difficult than might be obvious.
The copper tubing doesn't really fit inside the PVC tubing. I
heated the PVC until it was soft, then shoved it on the precise
distance I needed. I then had to sand down the end of the PVC
pipe so that it would fit into the box again. The end result is a
very snug fit, but it would be a lot easier to just use all PVC
tubing and run some heavy wire or braid through the inside.
Perhaps a piece of RG58 inside the PVC would be about right.
The smaller diameter of the conductor will increase the
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inductance a bit so expect lower value capacitors for
resonance.
In order to solder to the ends of the pipe, I cut little tabs with
an high-speed abrasive wheel. They're bent toward the bottom
of the photo. Notice the 100 uH choke that tuned my final
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design perfectly. That was replaced by a resistor in parallel
with a 365 pF trimmer capacitor at one time. The two
capacitors are made by paralleling two old-style mica
capacitors for a value near 9000 pF. Stay with high-quality
capacitors like mica, glass, porcelain, Teflon, and NPO ceramic.
Ordinary ceramic is a bit lossy but those losses might be just
about what you need to set the Q. If your capacitors are too
lossy, you will be able to get a peak but the voltage will be low.
The large 22 uH could have been another 100 uH or higher. I
used some old 2N718A metal transistors instead of the 2N4401
but most small-signal transistors should work fine. Using two
pin connectors for the power, audio, and antenna make it a lot
easier to make changes to the board. Notice the piece of wire
soldered to the ground plane in the top-right corner of the
board. That is for connecting the scope and voltmeters. Not
shown is the 24 volt molded power supply and the cable that
runs to the computer speaker jack.
This was a fairly trouble-free project and it works great but let
me know if you have any problems. (charles@wenzel.com)
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