3377 Bethel Rd SE, PMB 279

Port Orchard, WA 98366

360.908.5887

Healthy Plants Need a Good Foundation to Grow

Before planting, test your soil to determine IF you need to amend your soil to support plant life. Most
home & garden stores carry soil test kits at a reasonable cost. Kits will test for Ph and nutrients. See
Garden Vision “Soils 101” handout for determining what type of soil you have.
Soil texture (amount of sand, silt (loam), clay particles)
Ph (acidity or alkalinity)
Nutrients (Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K)

Most plants will only use nutrients when the soil temperature is above 55 degrees and the plant is actively
growing, and there are sufficient soil microbes to break down the minerals (fertilizer) into compounds it
can uptake through its roots. Adding michorizial powder when planting will help plants to establish new
roots and start the mineralization process.

Element What’s Needed for growth

Soil Fertility • Add nutrients (fertilizer)
• Organic material
• Soil micro-organisms
pH • Add the opposite to change pH level
• Peat, pine needles, manure to correct alkalinity
• Grass clippings, lime, chalk, leaf mold, newspaper to correct acidity

These ‘rules’ apply:

1. Use as much fertilizer as the plants will respond to. Generally, this is ¼ to ½ cup of organic fertilizer
(recipe below) per plant, depending on soil fertility and plant needs.
2. Use fertilizer when light and temperature levels allow plants to grow fast vegetatively.
3. Please follow fertilizer manufacturer’s directions to prevent contamination of aquifers and water
bodies.
4. If you use a water soluble fertilizer, water only enough for gravity to draw the water into the root zone.
See Garden Vision “Planting Instructions” handout for diagram of water penetration.

AMENDMENTS

Most Northwest soils will benefit from the addition of calcium and phosphate since these water soluble
minerals tend to be leached out of the soil. Most plants need trace amounts of calcium to adequately
use other nutrients. Apply Agricultural Lime or calcium carbonate per manufacturer’s directions.
Phosphate helps plants to produce buds and flowers.

If the top soil has been removed or depleted by construction, adding composted organic matter (10-
15% by volume) will help to replace the lost soil microbes that breakdown minerals for plants to use.
Using a product such as LASE or BLEND (Humi-Gro products) or high quality compost tea (made from
Soil Soup or equivalent) per manufacturer’s recommendations will also kick start microbial action in the
soil.

Most ornamental plants will not need annual fertilizer treatments. Adding organic fertilizer slightly below
the root zone when planting will provide additional nutrients when the roots grow into that area
(assuming that there is sufficient microbial action in the soil) to get them established. Some plants, such
as vegetables and hybrid tea roses, will produce more blossoms and fruit if fertilizer is applied during
each growing season.

Adjust pH to appropriate levels using green sand, lime, or other appropriate materials per
manufacturer’s directions. Garden Vision does not specify plants that require more alkaline soils in
Northwest garden plans, so adjusting Ph should not be needed.

Revised 06/15/06 p. 1 of 2
 3377 Bethel Rd SE, PMB 279
Port Orchard, WA 98366
360.908.5887

Good Soil Recipe*

At initial planting bed preparation, add the following to the bed:
• 2-4 inches composted material (manure, bark, leaves, sewage sludge)
• 40 lbs. Super phosphate
• 80 lbs. Gypsum
• 80 lbs. Calcium carbonate (agricultural lime)

Dig in all ingredients 10-20 inches deep

* Recommended by U.S. National Arboretum; rate is per 1,000 square feet (100 ft x 100 ft)

Steve Solomon’s Advice

When planting in individual holes, add the following to the dirt removed from the hole, then backfill with
the resulting mixture:
• composted material (manure, bark, leaves) at a proportion of 1/4 the volume, AND ONE of the
following:
o ½ to ¼ cup of complete organic fertilizer (see recipe below)
o OR 1 lbs. super phosphate and 2 lbs. gypsum and 2 lbs. calcium carbonate for a 3’ x 3’ x
3’ hole (if hole is smaller, reduce amounts proportionately)
o OR 2-3 tbsp of MiracleGro/Pete’s fertilizer and 2 lbs. gypsum and 2 lbs. calcium
carbonate for a 3’ x 3’ x 3’ hole (if hole is smaller, reduce amounts proportionately)

Complete Organic Fertilizer Recipe*

• Combine the following, by volume (scoop, bucket, jar, sack) and store in vermin-proof containers
• 4 parts seed meal (cottonseed or canola meal is generally available in NW; linseed, soybean,
coconut are other alternatives)
• ½ part lime (equal parts calcium carbonate and lime)
• ½ part phosphate rock (hard or soft) or bone meal (steamed or raw)
• ½ part kelp meal (any kind of pure seaweed meal from anywhere)
o This is a ‘luxury’ item that may provide trace minerals (copper, zinc, boron, cobalt) and
growth regulators and can be omitted if unavailable or too expensive.
* From “Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades,” by Steve Solomon
Recipe to Change pH
It may not be cost effective to change highly acidic or alkaline soil to the opposite. SO…. Use plants that
like the pH, texture, etc. you have.

• Acid to More Alkaline

o Improve drainage
o 5 lbs. lime per 10 square yards to raise pH .5 to .75
o .5 lb per square yard for slightly acid to .75 lb for more acid soil
o 4-6 inches composted alkaline material over entire area, tilled in
• Alkaline to More Acid
o 4-6 inches composted acidic organic material (peat, shredded leaves) over entire area,
tilled in
o 1.5 oz. sulfur per square yard, test in 5-6 weeks, repeat if needed

Revised 06/15/06 p. 2 of 2