FOOD

DRINK
BITES
BY AMANDA MCCLEMENTS
PHOTOGRAPHY BY POWERS AND CREWE

Mind-blowing carpaccio at PS 7’s. Sensational scallop at EatBar.

CHASING UMAMI Five chic places to savor the flavor that everyone’s talking about!
Heard of umami, the elusive fifth flavor sensation? To sophisticated tasters, this culinary concept rides
alongside the basic sweet, sour, salty and bitter flavors we’ve always loved. But umami (Japanese for
“deliciousness”) is the sexy one of the bunch, the savory je ne sais quoi in foods like soy sauce, aged cheese
and cured meats. “We’ve been reading about it for years,” says Joe Raffa, chef at Oyamel. “It’s definitely
the hot topic now. Everybody’s trying to put their finger on it.” Here’s a hot handful of umami fixations.

MUSHROOM NIRVANA AT OYAMEL “Mushrooms are the king of umami,” says Oyamel’s Raffa. Two of his
fabulous fungi feasts include the handmade corn taco filled with seasonal wild mushrooms and the
quesadilla stuffed with Oaxaca cheese and Mexican black truffle. The deceptively simple-looking
quesadilla literally oozes umami as the dark truffles and melted cheese seep out the sides. “It feels good
in your mouth!” effuses Raffa on his savory sensations. 401 7th St., NW, 202.628.1005.
Tasty tacos at Oyamel.
CULTIVATED CARPACCIO AT PS 7’S Chef Peter Smith says that umami is his favorite taste sensation. “It’s
the manly taste group,” he says with feigned bravado. He points to umami-packed dishes all over his
decadently delicious menu, and his roasted mushroom carpaccio hits all the coveted components of
the fifth taste sensation. Combining roasted maitake mushrooms with house-cured speck ham,
Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and kombu broth, the dish “embodies all the flavor foundations of the
umami sense,” says Smith. Indeed, it’s a savory, salty stunner. 777 I St., NW, 202.742.8550.

PROSCIUTTO PARADISE AT DINO “The umami sensation comes from aging meats or cheeses. We use a
small prosciutto producer that ages hams 15 months on the bone,” says owner Dean Gold of his Pio
Tosini 500 Giorni Prosciutto Crudo di Parma. “Most prosciutto spends only 10 months on the bone
and then in plastic, where the meat doesn’t age or form the complex compounds that result in umami
and other wonderful flavors. This is one of the best arguments for artisanal production: traditional
aging and handcrafting that factory farms can’t afford to do.” 3435 Connecticut Ave., NW, 202.686.2966.

CARAMEL KOBE AT THE OVAL ROOM “I like the science behind umami,” says chef Tony Conte of the Oval
Room. “Chefs today are going the science route to create food,” says the kitchen chemistry whiz. “I take
umami into consideration when creating a dish.” Taste paradise in Conte’s sour caramelized strip loin
of Kobe beef with porcini mushroom jam and soy-garlic butter. 800 Connecticut Ave., NW, 202.463.8700.

Crusty Kobe at The Oval Room.
BACON BONANZA AT EATBAR Chef Nathan Anda’s house-cured bacons, infused with amazing tastes like
coffee, ginger, cardamom and cayenne, are all the rage at EatBar. Anda’s umami secret is about taking
something as common as bacon and enhancing it with unexpected flavor. Balance is key. “I add flavors
that don’t overpower each other,” Anda says. Our favorite umami option is EatBar’s smoked scallop
with coriander bacon and an intense green curry sauce. 2761 Washington Blvd., Arlington, 703.778.9951.

2 > MARCH 2008