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Points to be studied?

 Definition
 Characteristics of lipsticks
 Composition
 Formulation related problems
 Moulding related problems
 Evaluation of finished products
 Marketed products
DEFINITION
• Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women.
• It may be refer as color cosmetics.
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments,
oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and
texture to the lips.
• There are many varieties of lipstick.
• Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.
Characteristics of Lipsticks
 Should cover lips adequately
 Long last effect
 Make lips soft
 Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky
 Good degree of quality
 Completely free from grittiness
 Non- drying
 Non- irritating to skin of lips
 Desirable degree of plasticity
 Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades
 Pleasant odor & flavor
 Free from sweating
 Shiny & smooth appearance
 Easily applicable & removable
 Stable both physically & chemically
Composition
 Wax mixture
 Oil mixture
 Bromo mixture
 Colors
 Preservatives
 Fragrance
 Antioxidants
 Surfactants & other additives
WAXES
 The gloss & hardness are generally depends
on characteristics & quantity of waxes
 Best characteristic is obtained by using
mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting
the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient
amount of high m.p. wax.
Various waxes used in lipstick
Wax M.P % Purpose
Cetostearyl alcohol 42-45 2-3 Emollient

Cetyl alcohol 45-50 2-3 Emollient

Ceresin wax 60-75 5-20 Increase m.p.

White beeswax 62-64 5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxes

Candelilla wax 65-69 5-10 Gives smooth & glossy appearance

Carnauba wax 80-88 1-3 Imparts rigidity & hardness

Hard paraffin 50 - 57 1-5 Improves gloss

Soft paraffin 38 – 56 1-5 Lubricant, increase spreadability


OILS
• The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to
provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin.
• Also acts as solvent in some formulation.
• Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments.
• The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread &
produce a thin film with good covering power.
• Examples:
– Castor oil
– Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters
– Fatty acid alkylamides
– Paraffin oil
– Isopropyl myristate
– Isopropyl palmitate
– Butyl stearate
BROMO MIXTURE
• Maintain the physical form of the formulation
• Also called as bromo acids
• Two classes:
– Red : gives red or reddish blue stain
– Orange , red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain
• About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick
• Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids:
– Castor oil & butyl stearate
– THFA & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate
– Glyceryl monostearate or monolaurate & diethylene glycol monostearate
– PG or PEG
• Examples of bromo mixture:
– Bromo acid : 15 gm
– PG : 200gm
– PG monomyristate : 100 gm

• Procedure:
– Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other)
– Add PG monomyristate
– Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil &
castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.
COLORS
• Most important from commercial & appearance point of view.
• In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various
other are available.
• Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways:
– By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the
outer layer of skin ---- SOLUBLE DYES
– By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any
skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE
DYES
• Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes :
– Example:
• Fluorescein,
• Eosin

• Insoluble Dyes / Nonstaining Dyes / lake colors :


– Example:
• Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminium, Strontium
• Used in 10 – 15 % concentration based on shade

• TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade


PRESERVATIVES

• Used to prevent microbial growth


• Example:
– 0.1% propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1%
• Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning
sensation or allergic reaction.
FRAGRANCE

• Essential component of lipstick


• Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax
• Used to impart attractive flavor
• Conc. 2-4%
• Qualities for selection:
– Free from irritating effect
– Free from disagreeable taste
– Stable & compatible with other ings.
ANTIOXIDANTS

• Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base


during storage.
• Generally used in combination
• Example:
– BHA,
– BHT,
– Propyl gallate,
– Citric acid
SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES

• SURFACTANTS :Used to promote wetting & stabilize the


dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base
• ADDITIVES: used for various purposes
– Oil - soluble sunscreen: filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun
burn.
– Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips.
– PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of
other ings. in lipstick.
– Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect.
Formula & Procedure
Ingredients Quantity Given

Carnauba Wax 10

Lanolin 5

Cetyl Alcohol 5

Castor Oil 65

Bromo Acid 2% of base weight

Colour Pigment (FeO + TiO2) 5% of base weight

Perfume q.s.

Bees Wax 15
General Manufacturing Process

• Steps involved:
– Melting and mixing
– Molding
– Labeling and packaging
Defects in lipstick
• Formulation related • Mould related
– Sweating – Laddering
– Bleeding – Deformation
– Blooming – Catering
– Streaking – Mushy Failure
– Seams
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Sweating:
– Most common problem.
– Caused due to high oil content or
inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax
composition.
– It may arise in any climate or temp.
range
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Bleeding:
– Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy
base.
– It leads to extremely uneven color
distribution
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Blooming:
– When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead
of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming.
– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol
(> 5%)
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Streaking:
– A thin line or band of different color or substances
appears to the surface of finished products.
– Problem arise due to separation of suspended
particles.
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS

• Seams:
– Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used.
– They are caused either due to brittle masses or due
to faulty cooling technique.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

• Laddering:
– Product has a ladder like appearance
– It does not look smooth or homogeneous
after congealing & setting but instead a
multilayered appearance.
– Occur due to either mould is kept at a
very low temperature or when bulk
formulation is not hot enough or filling
rate is slow.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

• Deformation:
– The shape of the lipstick looks
deformed.
– It is most noticeable in softer
formulae.
– Can appear on side of the
lipstick or on both the sides.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

• Catering:
– This effect is mostly found in split
mouldings.
– It shows up in flaming when the stick
develops dimples (spots).
– The main cause is the presence of trace
amounts of silicone oils or machinery
lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures
or the dispenser mixture.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS

• Mushy Failure:
– The central core of the stick lacks
structure & breaks.
– The problem is not related to
particular formula or particular shade.
– The granularity caused by carnauba
wax could be the reason for this
problem.
Quality control of Lipsticks

• QC procedures are strict

• The only cosmetic ingested, because of this strict controls on


ingredients & manufacturing processes, are imposed.

• Mixed and processed in a controlled environment so it will be


free of contamination.

• Incoming material is tested to ensure that it meets required


specifications.

• Samples of every batch produced are saved and stored at


room temperature for the life of the product
EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS

Color control
Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test )
Softening Point
Microbial Testing
Rancidity
Rupture Test
Breaking Load Test.
Color control
• Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of
colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this.
• The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is
manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick
mass is reheated.
• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of
lipstick.
• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it
can identically match previous batches.
• Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and
environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately
used.
DETERMINATION OF M.P.
• The lipstick base should have a M.P. between
55 - 750C. (600 C ideal)
• METHOD:
– Sample- approx. 50 mg
– Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open
on both the ends.
– Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours
– Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.
– Place a beaker full of water on a heating
plate with a magnetic stirrer.
– Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed
speed.
– The temp at which material moves along
the capillary tube is considered its M.P
SOFTENING POINT

• A lipstick should withstand the range of conditions to


which it will subjected in the consumers handbag.
• It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy
to apply in the hot as in cold weather.
• Softening point range 50-550C.
• Method:
– Ring and Ball method
– Second Method
SOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball Method
• A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it.
• Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving
a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring.
• This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min.
• Ring is tied onto a stand or bar.
SOFTENING POINT
Ring & Ball Method
• A beaker containing 500 ml water at
room temp. is placed on a hot plate
having a magnetic stirrer.
• A steel ball is delicately placed on the
lipstick tablet.
• The bar is with support is then inserted
into the beaker till it submerges into it.
• Heating & slow agitation is then begun.
Temp is monitored using a thermometer.
• The temp at which the lipstick mass &
steel balls are loosened & falls to the
bottom of the beaker is the S.P.
SOFTENING POINT
Another method
• The whole lipstick along with its stand is kept in a long
flat bottom tube.
• Care should be taken that the lipstick is in a protruded
position & the bulb of the thermometer just touches the
lipstick mass.
• Place this setup in a 1 liter beaker filled with water to a
level 1 cm above the upper up of the protruding lipstick.
• Start heating water very slowly (@1-20C/min).
• The temp at which the lipstick start bending & deforming
from its shape is the S.P.
MICROBIAL TESTING

• Contamination from raw materials, moulds, storage kettles


or lipstick container can lead to microbial growth.
• Microbial testing is suggested in IS:9875:1990,
• The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on
two selected culture media specifically suitable for the
growth of bacteria & fungi & incubating them for a specified
period to permit the development of visual colonies for
counting.
• The limit is, not more than 100 µo/gm.
RANCIDITY

• Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and


other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation.
• Is the oxidation of castor oil or other waxy or lipoidal
ingredients.
• It leads to obnoxious odor, bad taste & sticky product &
sometimes change of color of the product.
• Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its
peroxide number.
BREAKING LOAD TEST

• The test is to find out the value of


maximum load that a lipstick can withstand
before it breaks.

• The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to


a number of weights hanging from it.

• The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is


its Breaking Load.
BREAKING LOAD TEST

• Weights can be replaced by using


increasing increments of water
from a burette.
Rupture Test

 In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders,


in the extended position.
 Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at
30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures.
 The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then
checked against the manufacturer's standards.
 Since there are no industry standards for these tests,
each manufacturer sets its own parameters.
Marketed Products
• Lakme
• ELE- 18
References
• Cosmetics: P.P.Sharma

• Harry’s cosmetics

• Cosmetics: Vimladevi

• BIS Guidelines: Govt. of India

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