Professional Documents
Culture Documents
Definition
Characteristics of lipsticks
Composition
Formulation related problems
Moulding related problems
Evaluation of finished products
Marketed products
DEFINITION
• Also called as lip cosmetics, widely used by women.
• It may be refer as color cosmetics.
• Lipstick is a cosmetic product containing pigments,
oils, waxes, and emollients that applies color and
texture to the lips.
• There are many varieties of lipstick.
• Lippy is a common British word for lipstick.
Characteristics of Lipsticks
Should cover lips adequately
Long last effect
Make lips soft
Must adhere firmly to lips without being brittle & tacky
Good degree of quality
Completely free from grittiness
Non- drying
Non- irritating to skin of lips
Desirable degree of plasticity
Should have high retention of colors intensity without any change in shades
Pleasant odor & flavor
Free from sweating
Shiny & smooth appearance
Easily applicable & removable
Stable both physically & chemically
Composition
Wax mixture
Oil mixture
Bromo mixture
Colors
Preservatives
Fragrance
Antioxidants
Surfactants & other additives
WAXES
The gloss & hardness are generally depends
on characteristics & quantity of waxes
Best characteristic is obtained by using
mixture of waxes of different m.p & adjusting
the final m.p. by incorporating a sufficient
amount of high m.p. wax.
Various waxes used in lipstick
Wax M.P % Purpose
Cetostearyl alcohol 42-45 2-3 Emollient
White beeswax 62-64 5-20 Bind oils & higher m.p. waxes
• Procedure:
– Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other)
– Add PG monomyristate
– Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil &
castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.
COLORS
• Most important from commercial & appearance point of view.
• In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various
other are available.
• Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways:
– By staining the skin with soln of dyestuff which can penetrate the
outer layer of skin ---- SOLUBLE DYES
– By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any
skin roughness & give a smooth appearance ---- INSOLUBLE
DYES
• Soluble Dyes / Staining Dyes :
– Example:
• Fluorescein,
• Eosin
Carnauba Wax 10
Lanolin 5
Cetyl Alcohol 5
Castor Oil 65
Perfume q.s.
Bees Wax 15
General Manufacturing Process
• Steps involved:
– Melting and mixing
– Molding
– Labeling and packaging
Defects in lipstick
• Formulation related • Mould related
– Sweating – Laddering
– Bleeding – Deformation
– Blooming – Catering
– Streaking – Mushy Failure
– Seams
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Sweating:
– Most common problem.
– Caused due to high oil content or
inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax
composition.
– It may arise in any climate or temp.
range
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Bleeding:
– Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy
base.
– It leads to extremely uneven color
distribution
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Blooming:
– When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead
of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming.
– It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol
(> 5%)
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Streaking:
– A thin line or band of different color or substances
appears to the surface of finished products.
– Problem arise due to separation of suspended
particles.
FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS
• Seams:
– Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used.
– They are caused either due to brittle masses or due
to faulty cooling technique.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
• Laddering:
– Product has a ladder like appearance
– It does not look smooth or homogeneous
after congealing & setting but instead a
multilayered appearance.
– Occur due to either mould is kept at a
very low temperature or when bulk
formulation is not hot enough or filling
rate is slow.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
• Deformation:
– The shape of the lipstick looks
deformed.
– It is most noticeable in softer
formulae.
– Can appear on side of the
lipstick or on both the sides.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
• Catering:
– This effect is mostly found in split
mouldings.
– It shows up in flaming when the stick
develops dimples (spots).
– The main cause is the presence of trace
amounts of silicone oils or machinery
lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures
or the dispenser mixture.
MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS
• Mushy Failure:
– The central core of the stick lacks
structure & breaks.
– The problem is not related to
particular formula or particular shade.
– The granularity caused by carnauba
wax could be the reason for this
problem.
Quality control of Lipsticks
Color control
Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test )
Softening Point
Microbial Testing
Rancidity
Rupture Test
Breaking Load Test.
Color control
• Color control of lipstick is critical, and one only has to see the range of
colors available from a manufacturer to be aware of this.
• The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is
manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick
mass is reheated.
• Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of
lipstick.
• This equipment gives a numerical reading of the shade, when mixed, so it
can identically match previous batches.
• Matching of reheated batches is done visually, so careful time and
environment controls are placed on lipstick mass when it is not immediately
used.
DETERMINATION OF M.P.
• The lipstick base should have a M.P. between
55 - 750C. (600 C ideal)
• METHOD:
– Sample- approx. 50 mg
– Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open
on both the ends.
– Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours
– Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer.
– Place a beaker full of water on a heating
plate with a magnetic stirrer.
– Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed
speed.
– The temp at which material moves along
the capillary tube is considered its M.P
SOFTENING POINT
• Harry’s cosmetics
• Cosmetics: Vimladevi