Textile Dyes – Standards and Usage

This is the summary of the study report of RISE-AT regarding the information available
on the standards for dyes and the usage of dyes in the northern region on Thailand.

Goals of the study:

1. general assessment,
2. recognize concept and structure of problems involved,
3. list hazardous chemicals and indicate known, dangerous Thai dyes.

availability of data:
1. publications mostly in English
2. complete list of banned dyes not yet available,
3. classification-system not conform with Thai system,
4. new standard is expanding and dynamic body, thus subject to many additions and
changes in the future,

information dissemination:
1. so far, restricted to Institutes, special boards, organizations and certain industry.
2. regular up-dates available
3. list of specialized topics available for further inquiries,

lists:
1. extensive lists on hazardous chemicals and all dye-types are published, but as yet
incomplete,
2. list on amines ( harmful chemicals ) is classified according to Amine name and
where possible abbreviation CAS-Number ( Chemical Abstract Service )
3. list on dyes is classified according to (dye) CI- name (international color
catalogue) CI-Number (Color Identification Number) commercial names of the
industry trade names of producers and/or distributors (only available on lists from
India)

ISO 14000

- This is a catalogue of international norms and related rules and regulations

regarding environmental impact and biological compatibility of substances and
products.
- Regarding dyes: release of harmful substances during and after the production
process.
- Within six months of publication of each new norm, national legislation in Europe
will cease and is replaced by European legislation.
- The United States, Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan have announced
future compliance with and incorporation of the ISO 14000 series into their
legislation.
 - It will represent a serious trade-barrier for non-participants.

Results of the study of relevance of ISO standards in Thailand:

1. The completion of a list of prohibited dyes is time-consuming and may be costly,

because:
o a lack of proper product labeling in Thailand
o different trade-names for the same substance
o incomplete information material at information source
o budget limitations
o subject related communication needs to be improved
2. The norm is relevant mostly to the export market.
3. Impact of new regulation is not immediate.
4. No Thai legislation prohibits the use of hazardous dyes, thus problem solving
efforts by the industry are not compulsory.
5. Thai outlets of international companies are prepared for norm.

AZO-DYES or Direct Dyes

1. These dyes use AZO-groups as coloring agent,

2. upon cleavage these chemical groups release amines, which are harmful,
3. they are used mostly for cotton dyeing,
4. cheapest alternative to “reactive dyes” ( best industrial dye ),
5. good color fastness, dyeing process short and easy,
6. pollute waste-water with heavy metals,
7. There are two groups of AZO-dyes
A. hazardous AZO-dyes
B. non-hazardous or safe AZO-dyes
8. many AZO-dyes are subject to ISO 14000 legislation

A. Hazardous AZO-dyes

Availability:
...of product:
1. easy to purchase
2. widely distributed
3. known as “German Dyes”, they are sold in packs or by weight
...of information
1. chemical make up for majority of Thai dyes not known,
2. labeling and naming according to CI standards not available

Price:
1. 20 Baht per packet or two Baht per gram
2. Price is stable

Distributors:
 1. distributors are mostly producers as well.
2. Six companies are known in the north alone, nation-wide large number likely
3. interviews indicate distribution of banned dyes from international companies
through these local companies

Available alternatives:
...for product:
1. natural dyes
2. safe AZO-dyes
3. other safe dye-types ( like reactive, pigment, basic dyes etc....)
...of information:
1. information only available using the international system
2. international companies disseminate their own promotional information on
safe alternatives produced by their company
3. local brand-names offer no information on the subject

B. non-hazardous or safe AZO-dyes

Availability:
...of product:
1. not easy to purchase
2. not widely distributed
3. they are sold by weight
...of information:
1. information available in English, using international standards
2. some information in Thai, restricted to brand-names

Price:
1. 20 to 100 Baht per gram
2. Prices differ

Distributors:
1. only distributed by international cooperate companies operating in Thailand
through retail and wholesale.

Results of the study on Azo- Dyes :

1. a list of alternative, safe, chemical dyes would be of little effect now, due to
o a lack of descriptive terms that would make sense to Thai users
o Thai standards do not compare to international standards
o the prices of alternative dyes are too high for target group
o the dyeing process with alternative dyes needs to be more controlled when
compared with hazardous dyes
o recommendations in safe dyes can not match substituted colors, as the
descriptive terminology of ISO does not include Thai brand-names
 2. the problem of chemical dyes is a structural problem and not an individual one,
e.g.. the users have no choice
3. there is only basic material for recommendations to producers/ distributors
4. success in substituting dangerous dyes is only possible in cooperation with
producers / distributors
5. the financial aspects of alternative dyes suggest another target group
6. suggestions for problem solutions do as yet not have a structural basis
7. middlemen are interested in solution
8. target group is indifferent to solution
9. waste-water of AZO-dyes is hazardous

Target-group and natural dyes

A. Target group: villages and small communities

1. limited scientific knowledge
2. limited capital
3. limited influence
4. traditional knowledge in dyeing
5. willing to listen
6. largely dependent on middleman

B. Natural dyes:
1. limited resources
2. limited number of color shades
3. limited durability of raw-material
4. limited color fastness
5. labour-intensive dyeing method
6. research and information available
7. limitations of potentialities not yet reached
8. resources controlled by target-group
9. export-promotion possible through ecolabelling
10. waste-water environmentally acceptable
11. a lot of practical experience and knowledge...etc..

Suggestions ( chemical dyes )

• define new target groups

• concentrate on information dissemination
• find structural approach
• connect to natural dyes ( PR )
• build association of middlemen and small dye producers / distributors

Suggestions ( natural dyes )

• priority over chemical dyes

• disseminate maximum on information
 • try to push for natural dye project
• promote active research
• try to connect with related sectors/fields
• try to integrate their work

Suggestions ( ISO 14000 )

• improve subject related communication.

Target-group and natural dyes

1. middlemen believe villagers might turn to other occupations for additional

income,
2. hand-manufactured export products are in need of certified raw material,
3. investment-possibilities of villagers are limited,
4. target-group has no choice, hardly any alternatives,
5. target-group needs ( mechanically ) improved tools,
6. middlemen postpone problems by moving to other areas,
7. high demand for improved natural dyes,
8. tools availablefor dyeing process have no standard,
9. middlemen decide on production
10. villages have generation gap