A MATTER OF

SEDUCTION
THE NUMBER ONE FABRICS
TRADE FAIR FOR INTIMATES

PRESS KIT

23/24/25
JANUARY 2010
SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS
PAVILION 3 - VIPARIS
P ORTE D E VERS AI L L ES
WWW.INTERFILIERE.COM
CONTENTS

CONTENTS
THE FAIR 0 P. 3 TO 13

EXHIBITOR’S NEWS P. 14 TO 21

CASE STUDY N° 17 P. 22 TO 26

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INTERFILIÈRE

SEDUCTION !
With its 160 exhibitors, INTERFILIÈRE is returning to its position as the only fabrics show
alongside the fashion trade shows held at Porte de Versailles between January 23rd and 25th
2010. As was the case in September last, the three-day show will be located in pavilion 3 and
is timed to coincide with the Salon International de la Lingerie which is mirroring the three-
day format for its January session.
Strength through unity: the majority of textile companies view taking part in trade shows as
a crucial element of commercial strategy. With ever increasing globalization, lines are moving,
points of reference are changing and evolving … Participating in an event like Interfilière
offers companies an opportunity to demonstrate their vitality and dynamism (81% of
January 2009’s exhibitors are returning). Interfilière’s specific expertise in the intimates and
beachwear sectors has enabled it to make its mark as a decisive, must-see event in the
industry calendar. It is the place to meet market leaders.
A continual source of new ideas, Interfilière’s goal is to accompany its exhibitors and visitors
and offer them the very best.

IN A CHANGING MARKET,
INTERFILIÈRE LEADS FROM THE FRONT!
INTERFILIÈRE FOLLOWS MARKET TRENDS
AND HIGHLIGHTS THEM AT THE SHOW THROUGH THREE KEY THEMES
WHICH WILL TAKE THE FORM OF GUIDED TOURS FOR BUYERS

> These three “LOUNGERIE”, a hybrid of lingerie and loungewear: all the comfort of
FOCAL POINTS homewear that we love to wear out with ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA), ART MARTIN (FRANCE),
will also be showcased
BE BE COTTON KNITTING (TAIWAN), CODENTEL (FRANCE), DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN), BOSELLI (ITALY),
on the trends forum.
EMMEGI-FERRARIO (ITALY), EUSEBIO (ITALY), FEINJERSEY (AUSTRIA), FERNANDO VALENTE (PORTUGAL),
“Loungerie” through
the OASIS and FLEXYFORM (FRANCE), HÄNDEL & DILLER (GERMANY), HUBER TRICOT (AUSTRIA), KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER
TENDRESSE themes, (FRANCE), KURODA LACE (JAPAN), LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE), LIEBAERT (BELGIUM), LUCIEN CASEZ
Men’s underwear (FRANCE), MG  CREATION (FRANCE), MODA PIERRE (FRANCE), MR CRÉATION (GERMANY), NELLY  RODI  –
through the TRENDLAB (FRANCE), PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY) PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY), PROMOSTYL (FRANCE), ROCLE
ANTIDOTE theme,
BY ISABELLA (FRANCE), ROMATEX (SUISSE), RUEFF TEXTIL (AUSTRIA), SE DATEX (SPAIN), SERAM (FRANCE),
Shapewear through
TDI TEXTIIDRUCK (AUSTRIA), TOPP ITALIA (ITALY), WALTER NATTER (AUSTRIA).
the TENDRESSE
theme.

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> Within the “MEN’S UNDERWEAR”, in response to high demand from buyers with
framework of the ALGE ELASTIC (AUSTRIA), ANDRÉ AVIO (FRANCE), AQUATECH (FRANCE), BE BE COTTON KNITTING
“Sleepover party” (TAIWAN), BISCHOFF TEXTIL (SWITZERLAND), BISCHOFF ROJA (TURKEY), CHEYNET ELASTICS (FRANCE),
organized by the
ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY), ESF (FRANCE), EUROSTICK (ITALY), EUSEBIO (ITALY), FRAMIS
Salon International
(ITALY), GABLER BAND (AUSTRIA), GROBELASTIC (SPAIN), HÄNDEL & DILLER (GERMANY), GRUPO
de la Lingerie,
on Saturday 23rd MODA ESTILMAR (SPAIN), HONG TSAI INTERNATIONAL (TAIWAN), HUBER TRICOT (AUSTRIA), ILUNA
January, the Interfilière GROUP (ITALY), INPLET PLETIVA (SLOVÉNIE), I.R.T.E. (ITALY), KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE),
exhibitors have been LANGENDORF TEXTIL (GERMANY), LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE), LIEBAERT (BELGIUM), LUNAS
asked to dress every (FRANCE), MAD ABOUT SKIN (FRANCE), MAGLIFICIO RIPA (ITALY), MG CREATION (FRANCE), MODA
child’s favourite
PIERRE (FRANCE), MR CRÉATION (GERMANY), PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY), PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY),
cuddly toy…
PROMOSTYL (FRANCE), RUEFF TEXTIL (AUSTRIA), SERAM (FRANCE), TDI TEXTILDRUCK (AUSTRIA),
the teddy bear:
TESSITURA ROSSI (ITALY), WILLY HERMANN – SUPERFINE (AUSTRIA).
CODENTEL ,
LES TISSAGES PERRIN,
SOLSTISS , LE « SHAPEWEAR » qui, entre innovation et raffinement, est en constante
FASHION RESOURCES , évolution avec ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA), CHARMING FABRICS (CHINA), DEBS CORPORATION
CHANTY LACE, (JAPAN), DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN), ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY), WILLY HERMANN  –
EISENHÜT, SUPERFINE (AUSTRIA), KURODA LACE (JAPAN), KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE), LIEBAERT
ROCLE BY ISABELLA , (BELGIUM), PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS (GERMANY), PIROLA GIOVANNI (ITALY), PROMOSTYL (FRANCE),
SATAB, SERAM (FRANCE), TIANHAI LACE (CHINA).
SOPHIE HALLETTE
MUEHLMEIER
BODYSHAPING.

OFFERING CHOICE, CREATIVITY, INNOVATION AND

QUALITY  INTERFILIÈRE IS STICKING TO ITS GUNS!
THE INTERFILIÈRE PRODUCT RANGE IS DIVIDED INTO FOUR KEY SECTORS:

LACE IT BROD’CUST NEOSKIN ACCESS FOLIES

for quintessential lace…
featuring all the magic
of embroidery…
bringing together knits,
wovens, prints and
embellishment - the heart
of the product range…
a sector that combines
fun, performance and
innovation in a treasure
trove of finishing touches:
beads, braids, buttons,
ribbons, hooks-and-eyes,
bra-cups, elastic…

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 he show’s 160 exhibitors represent 20 different countries; with France,

T
Italy and Germany/Austria being the top-ranked exhibitor countries, as was the
case in January 2009.

Interfilière is welcoming over 20 new exhibitors including ALBERT BÖSCH

(AUSTRIA  – BROD’CUST), GUANZHOU SEAL BEAUTY (CHINA – ACCESS FOLIES), XINCHENG
(CHINA – NEOSKIN), KOCHER/BOUTONS KOCHER (FRANCE – ACCESS FOLIES), TEXTILE LOGISTIC
CENTER (GREECE – LACE IT), FITOR DISTRIBUICAO UNIPESSOAL (PORTUGAL – NEOSKIN).

A number of companies that usually exhibit at the September edition of

Interfilière have decided to participate in January 2010: GRUPPO MODA ESTILMAR
(SPAIN – NEOSKIN), SEDATEX (SPAIN – NEOSKIN), BILLON CREA’LYS (FRANCE – NEOSKIN), CAP
SUD (FRANCE – ACCESS FOLIES), CCI DU CAMBRÉSIS (FRANCE – INSTITUTIONNEL), LUCIEN
CASEZ (FRANCE – BROD’CUST), ROGER LESAGE (FRANCE – BROD’CUST), MAURI ANGELO (ITALY
- ACCESS FOLIES), TOPP ITALIA (ITALY – ACCESS FOLIES).

The following companies will also be returning: BOUVELLE (FRANCE – NEOSKIN), CHARMING FABRICS (CHINA – NEOSKIN),
DENIER (SPAIN - ACCESS FOLIES), ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY ;– NEOSKIN), FRAMIS (ITALY - ACCESS FOLIES), SHANGHAI PRESS
INTIMATES (CHINA - ACCESS FOLIES) ; PENN TEXTILE SOLUTION (GERMANY),
et DOGI INTERNATIONAL (SPAIN) dans le secteur
NEOSKIN, présents en janvier 2009 seulement en showrooms, et qui exposent sur un stand cette session.

Finally, within the framework of Paris Capitale de la Création, Interfilière has chosen the Italian embroidery
specialist JUNIOR SRL ARTERICAMI BY ADELE ZIBETTI as Designer of the Year 2010.

FOSTERING NETWORKING ,
GENERATING BUSINESS
INTERFILIÈRE IS INNOVATING!
MEET LINGERIE,
ORGANIZING
BUSINESS ONLINE,
IN ADVANCE…

Over the last few sessions, Interfilière has set itself the objective of
putting exhibitors in touch with the major buyers that they wish to meet
through a series of B-to-B meetings organized ahead of the show.
This service is being developed with the online launch of a web interface
designed for scheduling meetings between exhibitors and buyers:

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> An Exhibitor/Visitor Meet  Lingerie allows users to share information, improves and gauges the quality of
reception desk will meetings in order to satisfy the precise requirements of buyers and sourcing professionals.
be set up at the main
entrance to Interfilière,
Meet  Lingerie is an excellent tool which allows visitors to track down new suppliers
Pavilion 3.
according to product type and rationalize their route around the show, while enabling
exhibitors to develop customer recruitment and business by encouraging customer loyalty.
Upon registration, buyers and exhibitors introduce themselves and indicate their preferences.
Individual contacts are then established and meetings scheduled in just a click. The service
can then be monitored on a day-to-day basis via the platform and individual meetings
schedules can be managed directly by the participants themselves.

100% FABRICS – 100% FASHION

INTERFILIÈRE IS ALWAYS A CELEBRATION!
> A new feature THE GENERAL FORUM: “REVISITS THE GLOBAL VILLAGE CONCEPT”
this year, this satellite A new linear layout along the show’s main aisle encourages visitors to check out each house
forum at the heart
in turn for an insight into the different trends – “TENDRESSE”, “OASIS”, “ANTIDOTE”
of the Access Folies
and “SUBLIME”: colours, designs, innovations, prototypes, new ideas … the show’s most
sector conjures up an
“Alpine Romance”: fabulous fabrics are showcased here in an explosion of memorable visuals and a wealth of
complete with fashion information. A key highlight of the Interfilière show, this space is devoted to creative
meadows, sheep and freedom and innovation for an ongoing celebration!
cows, for a natural
and rustic atmosphere
with a definite feel- ACCESS FOLIES INDULGES IN AN ALPINE ROMANCE!
good factor! Promoting the know-how of the accessories manufacturers (with CHEYNET ELASTICS as partner,
and of seven Swiss and Austrian embroiderers (UNION, ISCO ISIDOR, INTER-SPITZEN, EISENHÜT,
BISCHOFF TEXTIL, FORSTER ROHNER, HÄMMERLE & VOGEL ), through a series of prototypes.

100% TREND-FOCUSED CONFERENCES: OVER TO THE EXPERTS!

The Trends for Summer 2011 will be presented by the style agencies Concepts Paris,
Promostyl, Carlin International and Nelly Rodi on a daily basis:

Conference room, Pavilion 3 – Aisle B

10.30am - 11.30am Nelly Rodi
12.15pm - 1.15pm Concepts Paris
3.15pm - 4.15pm Carlin International
4.45pm - 5.45pm Promostyl

AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12 ALREADY!
Offering a veritable sneak-preview of Autumn/Winter 2011/12, this conference has been
organized for those exhibiting at Interfilière and for a selection of gold buyers for both shows.
It will be led by Jos Berry, Director of Concepts Paris.

Conference room, Pavilion 3 Aisle B

Monday 25th January at 8.30am

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100% FABRICS – 100% FASHION

INTERFILIÈRE IS ALWAYS
A CELEBRATION!

THE GENERAL FORUM

“REVISITS THE GLOBAL
VILLAGE CONCEPT”
SUMMER 2011 COLLECTIONS
TENDRESSE
Of Interfilière’s four themes, Tendresse is the one that has
attracted most attention from manufacturers. Finally, we are
seeing in the collections two qualities combined: fineness
and technique. Flowers are back in more delicate form
and in softer, more refined contrasting colours. Large
florals feature on very wide, very stretchy bands for
maximum support, and on high-leg briefs such as those
by TAKEDA LACE, ALBERT BOESCH and CHIH YI.

Antique and vintage effects are everywhere combined

with the latest techniques, a blend of regret and progress.
A few surprises here and there, with special touches that
are no longer confined to a niche market such as the sequin
details at MASTEX.
The big winners are the very high quality, minimalist
laces aimed at a fashionable youth market, like the pretty
Leavers from PIZVAL or the more graphic motifs at CODENTEL.
All-over laces make a big comeback with matching bands
to create co-ordinating sets from pieces with different technical
demands. Nostalgia has brought back true lace, either mono-
elastic or in luxury materials like silk at PIZVAL.

FOCUS ON SHAPEWEAR
Shapewear with power net in adorable, very stretchy
patterns is ultra soft and finally offers something for the
young woman as at ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE and DRESDNER
SPITZEN.

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FOCUS ON LOUNGERIE AND “PRETTY NIGHT”

Loungerie is dominated by Modal but blended with
materials with a dry, natural feel like silk, cotton and
wool as seen in the collections by HUBER TRICOT and WILLY
HERMANN. New arrivals are the matching knits and
weaves as at DEBS or BE BE COTTON resulting in new garments
like treggings. Satin effects are popular in woven materials,
and small graphic and Liberty prints at ROCLE BY ISABELLA
have introduced a new category, “pretty night”: a clever mix
of underwear and nightwear.

OASIS
This theme is inspired by the natural world, sand and
earth. Motifs are tinged with other cultures. Patterns
acquire a glazed finish and are inspired by Moroccan tiles.

The theme is neither all-ethnic nor all-European but

borrows from both. The influence of organic shapes gives
us new patterns at SOLSTISS and furry finishes that are
comfortable next to the skin.

Lace is combined with jacquards like at TIANHAI LACE while

beiges and blues are combined to perfection. Nudes are more
tinted and tend towards pink. Precious details are delicate,
like this Lurex yarn from ILUNA. BISCHOFF and BRODERIES
DESCHAMPS continue their fruitful quest for new yarns with
new textures and patterns, like a bestiary of leopard or
satin snakeskin flowers. Acid green is used to superb effect
on wovens, as at DEBS for large summery shirts. Finally JUNIOR
ARTERICAMI, our designer of the year, brings us magnificent
panther on a tulle ground, like new “action painting” effects.

ANTIDOTE
Focus on similarities between lingerie, swimwear and
ready-to-wear in the form of non-matching tops and
bottoms. Prints are out of the ordinary with the use of new
colours like the almost fluorescent yellow at LIEBAERT
on knits and wovens.
Navy gets a new twist with a few eccentric acid touches.
Folklore influences embroidery which comes in colour,
like at BRODERIES DESCHAMPS or CHIEF YOU. The influence of
other cultures is clear, and patterns are daringly youthful
and inspired directly by Africa like at MASTEX.
There is an increasing use of crystal effects influenced by
the scientific issues of the moment.

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MASCULINE FOCUS
Materials for the masculine market are not neglected, with old classics taking new forms. Stripes and
small geometric patterns acquire eye-catching, very British colours: green, orange, shiny touches and
fresh pastels.

FOCUS ON SWIMWEAR
Swimwear gets the ethnic treatment for concepts from the bikini to the pareo and matching dress that
can be worn on the beaches of Saint-Tropez or Miami. Note the shiny animal skins at EUSEBIO and the large
florals at LIEBAERT. Finally, SEDATEX has designed some great beach dresses.

SUBLIME
The brilliant combination of black and blue continues
its rise, even for spring-summer. Sexy lingerie gets subtle
surface decorations.

Large scales are in order, like at Foster Rohner. Metallic

sheens on pink or red satin from LES TISSAGES PERRIN,
LOUIS VIDON and BOSELLI add a touch of glamour.

Power net inspired by corsets is ultra sexy yet soft and

very stretchy. CHANTY LACE goes for intricate, very
light fabrics that model the body for everyday wear.
Animal grounds and new net effects go floral, like at
TAKEDA LACE and NOYON DENTELLE . Laces are extremely
stretchy and almost invisible. All-over lace is very
useful for creating little dresses and corsets to go with
the bra and panties.

Finally, cabaret and exotic themes result in new

effects such as the magnificent cut-out and incrusted
fan details on a tulle ground that so impressed us at
RICAMIFICIO EMME.

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ALPINE ROMANCE – ACCESS FOLIES SECTOR

BEING CREATIVE TOGETHER…

Lingerie is a story based on the imagination and dreams, with plotlines guided by love and pleasure. It is a story
capable of inspiring the exceptional décors and ornamentation that render it sublime.
With this in mind, Swiss and Austrian embroiderers and accessories manufacturers, with CHEYNET ELASTICS as
partner, have long-established their expertise in the art of transforming these dreams into reality…

In their most recent catwalk shows Chanel, Cavalli, Ralph Lauren and Dior reinterpreted a playful joie de vivre
borrowed from bygone eras. It is this same surge of reenergized youth and impeccable quality that we are keen
to celebrate at the heart of this new space entitled “Alpine Romance” and dedicated to European excellence, with
its unparalleled creativity.

HEIDI IN LOVE
WITH EISENHUT
DELFT BLUE WITH
HÄMMERLE & VOGEL

MEADOW FLOWERS
WITH ISCO – ISIDOR

PORCELAIN FLORALS GORGEOUS BLACKS

WITH INTER-SPITZEN WITH FORSTER
ROHNER
AN ODE TO CHANEL
WITH UNION

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CALENDAR OF EVENTS FOR 2010

Inaugurated on June 11th 2009 and “AUX MARINS CÉLESTES”

housed in an authentic 19th century
factory, the Calais International Lace
and Fashion Centre (Pavilion 3 stand
E26) features 2,500 m2 of display space
devoted to the know-how, techniques,
economic and social history and
manufacturing secrets, as well as the
more contemporary aspects of the
world-famous Calais lace.
More than a simple museum-space,
bearing witness to the industrial
history of Calais and Saint-Pierre, the
International Lace and Fashion Centre
is also a veritable hotbed of discovery,
a cultural and scientific interchange
where visitors can watch the magic of
lace production on working “Leavers”
looms. It also serves as a showcase for
the lace-making profession.
(CELESTIAL SAILORS): FASHION SHOW AND TEMPORARY EXHIBITION
The Cité de la dentelle has invited a group of young designers,
working together as the “Future Fashion and Arts” association, to
take over the temporary exhibition space with a multi-discipline
installation, combining suits created by Françoise André, jewellery
by Véronique Rémy, photography by Christophe Bonamis, sound
and interactive videos signed Thibaud Roy and Timothée Zéphir,
in an exhibition designed by Cédric Gerlus. A discrete but hugely
talented designer, Françoise André aims to free menswear from its
stuffy image by introducing lace and metal and giving it a dream-
inspiring quality. The catwalk show of her collections, presented
during the 2009 European Heritage Days at the André Diligent La
Piscine museum in Roubaix, has been included in an exhibition
design combining references to Polynesian culture with codes
borrowed from naval uniforms and others from the cybernetic and
hyper-technological domain.
Catwalk show/performance on February 6th 2010
at 3.30pm and 5.30pm
Exhibition from February 7th to April 16th 2010

“ESPRIT LINGERIE”
> Useful information:
(SPIRIT OF LINGERIE): TEMPORARY EXHIBITION
Cité internationale
de la dentelle et de With the trend for lingerie that can be revealed or concealed,
la mode de Calais mutual exchanges between the world of apparel and the world of
135 quai du Commerce intimates are now well-established. This exhibition will focus on
62100 Calais the reciprocal influence of these two domains, taking a closer look
+33 3 21 00 42 30
at historical, local and contemporary aspects.
www.cite-dentelle.fr
Opening hours: Exhibition from 11th June to 7th November 2010
Daily, except Tuesdays
10.00am-5.00pm
from 01/11 to 31/03, “DU PLANCHER AU PODIUM”
10.00am-6.00pm from (FROM THE FLOOR TO THE PODIUM):
01/04 to 31/10.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY PHILIPPE SCHLIENGER: TEMPORARY EXHIBITION
Closed on May 1st,
December 25th Philippe Schlienger has offered to carry out a photographic project
and January 1st. for Calais which will follow the manufacturing logic of lace, from
Reduced entry.
the arrival of the raw material at the industrial sites (at the port
Preferential group rates
available on or haulage depot), via the preparation of materials, manufacture,
+33 (0)3 21 00 42 32. dyeing and finishing operations, all the way through to the finishing
Shop, restaurant, touches in design studios and Parisian couture houses.
documentation centre
December 2010 to April 2011

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INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010

DESIGNER OF
THE YEAR AWARD

WITHIN THE path (following a well-defined

investment strategy), involving
FRAMEWORK OF everything from expanding the
PARIS CAPITALE factory (to reinforce production,
logistics, services and open a new
DE LA CRÉATION,
quality-control lab) to making the
INTERFILIÈRE HAS most of human resources; while
CHOSEN THE ITALIAN taking on board environmental
issues and sustainable develop-
EMBROIDERER JUNIOR ment. The company’s experience
SRL ARTERICAMI BY and renewed creativity, combined
with its all-important know-how,
ADELE ZIBETTI AS pave the way towards exclusive
DESIGNER OF THE products and bespoke service.

YEAR 2010.
Laser-cut embroidery, using multi-
head machines, with sequins or
> STAND C21/D22 NEOSKIN
gathering, are just a small selec­
is an Italian em- tion of the potential product range.
JUNIOR ARTERICAMI
broiderer and leader in the Euro-
« Our collections are
pean market for upscale lingerie, EMOTIONAL ANGLE characterized by
ready-to-wear and swimwear.
Since 1971, the company’s objec-
« The market is on the look-out style choices based
tive has been to satisfy the requi-
for new sources of stimulation
and enthusiasm. We try to ensure
on three different
rements of each client with pas-
sion and constantly initiate new
that our designs convey this angles which are
projects and challenges.
desire to arouse emotion and
stimulate, to create with passion
combined with
Hence, despite the current market
and renewed strength and offer a harmony and
situation, its directors have
fresh range of new products. The
fact that we are well-established
functionality. »
decided to embark on a new

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in the three embroidery markets FUNCTIONAL AND

(intimates, ready-to-wear and CLIENT-FOCUSED ANGLE
beachwear) enables our design
studio to seek inspiration in The poetry evoked above must
three different product universes then be transformed into
and offer the very best of our concrete actions. We aim to en-
creativity in our new Summer courage customer loyalty by pro-
2011 collection. It’s important viding products that are capable
not to forget that creating means of inspiring emotions and at the
inspiring emotion and surprise, same time commercially sound.
especially at a difficult time Our embroidery can only be ge-
like this. nuinely appreciated at the end of
the process, when we gauge sales
INNOVATIVE ANGLE success together with our clients.
Service and quality round-off our
Our design team focused on commercial policy.”
seeking out alternative embroi-
dery grounds to the traditional
tulle, such as cotton, microfibre,
satin and jersey grounds. At the
same time, we continue to favour
relationships with suppliers who
implement environmentally-
sound policies and offer OEKO-
TEX-certified products. Using a
variety of materials, a laser-cut-
ting system and multi-head ma-
chines featuring state-of-the-art
technology, enables us to offer a
combination of technical prowess
and functionality for superior
quality.

Via Monte Rosa, 99

21050 CAIRATE (VARESE)
Tél : 00 39 0 331 310065
www.ricamificiojunior.it

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EXHIBITOR’S NEWS

INTERFILIÈRE

SUMMER 2011
COLLECTIONS
ECOLOGY AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
ALWAYS FIRMLY ON THE AGENDA…

Materials: organic cotton, bamboo, silk, viscose, rayon,

ALBERT BÖSCH (AUSTRIA)
nylon, polyester, etc. with Meryl, Tactel, Modal,
> STAND E40 BROD’CUST Lyocell, Tencel, Delight and Coolplus yarns, etc.
Applications: printing, embossing, dévoré, satin,
Guipure trim and braid, cotton and polyester
pleating, etc.
widths, rich, multicoloured embroidery on tulle
Properties: antibacterial, anti-odour, minus ion, micro-
grounds, “tattoo” tulle, cotton embroidery on tulle
encapsulation (skin-care, fragrance, bamboo, etc.)
and thermocut batiste…
Themes for Summer 2011: Nostalgia (cotton
embroidery on tulle and batiste); 1950s (richly BRA CUP (TAIWAN)
embroidered braid combined with thermocut
technology); Seduction (gorgeous multicoloured
> STAND K37 ACCESS FOLIES
embroidery, very glamorous). This company specializes in haberdashery and
accessories: bra-cups featuring pockets of air or
water, shape-memory, push-up, massage, stay-white
BE BE COTTON KNITTING (TAIWAN)
padding, ventilated spacer cups, nipple-covers.
> STAND E31/F32 NEOSKIN Magnetic and ingenious accessories and decorative
elements: diamante, buckles, T-bars, pendants,
This company is highly committed to sustainable
buttons, brooches, bows, buckles… Iron-on motifs:
development and research with its ROSE
diamante, glittering leather, aluminium studs,
programme (Reducing-Recycling-Rescue / Ozone-
bright sequins… Diamante zips with a double or
Organic-Original / Save-Sustain-Safe / Ecofriendly-
single row of rhinestones, invisible zips… Shoulder
Evolution-Earth).
straps: silicone, diamante, transparent, elastic,
A specialist in synthetic-blend stretch knits (nylon/ sliding, velvet, beaded. Trimming: diamante tassels,
polyester) and double mercerised cotton jacquards, fringes, velvet, tulle, stretch lace, beads, collar
plain jerseys in gauges 24 to 36, 28-gauge jacquards decorations…
with large or small repeats, large and small yarn-
Perforated spacer cups, which allow the air to
dyed stripes; rib knits in gauges 14 to 30, terry and
circulate for optimal comfort, have been developed
fleece, piqué on various grounds, suede, etc.
for Summer 2011. The interior of the spacer fabric
A wide range of surface finishes including prints,
is perforated to reinforce its properties, offering
metallic effects, embossing, flocking and laser-
the cups enhanced ventilation to keep the wearer
cutting…
comfortable in hot temperatures…

COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 14

EXHIBITOR’S NEWS
Diamante-effect buckles which use a special
material in place of diamante to create the same
effect at a reduced price…
CADT (SPAIN)
> STAND A24 LACE IT
CADT is split into three departments:
Software: which develops the SAPO lace design
and drafting software for Leavers and Raschel
machines. CADT works with Karl Mayer.
Design: CADT creates collections of artistic and
technical designs (drafting) for Leavers and Raschel
lace manufacturers.
Training: CADT offers a variety of training options:
sketching, technical drawing for Raschel or Leavers
machines, training on its SAPO system.
CHARMING FABRICS (CHINA)
> STAND E6 NEOSKIN
Fabrics made from synthetic fibres, lace, mesh knits,
jacquards, single and double jerseys for lingerie,
beachwear, sportswear and outerwear…
For Summer 2011: fine-gauge knits, fancy knits
using fine yarns, lingerie prints…
Eco-textiles: circular knits, double knitted with
recycled polyester…
CHEYNET ELASTICS (FRANCE)
> STAND G31/H34 ACCESS FOLIES
Organic Design: at the dawn of an era when the
future will go hand in hand with nature, mankind’s
environmental awareness is becoming more acute
with time.
Returning to our roots, the organic world is making
its presence felt to an ever greater extent. A plant-
based spirit in perpetual motion for a theme that is
vague without being excessive, extremely elegant
and contemporary.
Tea Time: a whiff of cinnamon floats in the air;
the senses are awakened by a few heady drops of
orange-flower water… An ingenuous atmosphere,
evoking the magical sensations of a sacred ritual.
The eye discovers the precious details of refined
china and perforated paper. Infused tea and a swirl
of milk are new sources of inspiration.
The warm colours of spring offer a palette of refined
pastel shades, with a multitude of possibilities.
These two themes have resulted in a series of
wonderfully light and fine creations, aspiring to a
natural world full of innocent dreams and colourful
fantasies.
Eco-textiles: articles made from natural materials
such as lempur, crabion and bamboo. The entire
collection satisfies the ecological requirements of
OEKOTEX certification.
DENTELLES DARQUER (FRANCE)
> STAND B7/C10 LACE IT
Exotic fragrances
Joyfully contrasting flowers clipped on vertical, dark
amaranth stalks featuring tentacles. Lace is highly
stylised, with netting that recalls those used in
ceramics, romantic with discreet modern overtones.
This theme springs surprises, playing with contrast,
and fancy geometry.
Feng shui
A sophisticated atmosphere, with a penchant for
ceremony, imbued with purity and simplicity.
A source of harmony drawing on bamboo, roses,
tulips, a blending of fabrics and motifs to soothe
and pamper you. We go into raptures over the sheer
softness of the orchids. This theme conjures up the
quintessence of a Chinese garden. A richly coloured
world: yellow, earth, wood, mauve, turquoise etc.
The fragrance of incense wafts through the air.
Bright sunshine
This theme takes us on a poetic promenade through
the gardens of the world and the imagination.
Lace features floral friezes and bowls of flowers.
A painter’s palette with pastel tints, bougainvillea,
amber etc. With a decided note of glamour, this
theme enchants the most particular of women.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 15
EXHIBITOR’S NEWS
DJIC LIMITED (TAIWAN)
> STAND F23 NEOSKIN
For Summer 2011, a fine jersey and other grounds
using the finest yarns: Supima cotton C100s,
C80s, C60s, C50s & Micromodal 60s/1 for both
plains and prints …
Even finer yarns for plain and printed “free cut”
fabrics with a variety of different finishes.
ELASTIC TEXTILE EUROPE (GERMANY)
> STAND E11/F10 NEOSKIN
Sensitive Fiction is an urban trend for clear
silhouettes using reflective, transparent and modern
fabrics. The trend is dominated by shades of gold,
grey, rose and petrol.
What particularly sets this trend apart are the
materials, with satin optics manufactured on a
knitting machine, the soft knit quality, the modern
shapewear and the first warp-knit material with the
technical characteristics of weftloc fabric, etc.
Untamed Nature: it is the new interpretation
of animal skins and nature-inspired motifs that
distinguishes this trend from the others. In terms of
colour, it is dominated by clay, olive and coral tones:
new Rascheltronic fabrics (32 E yarn count) extend
into developments with natural fibres, Textronic
products and natural-look tulle.
Delicacy is the season’s most upscale trend.
Here, the creative direction is feminine and sensual.
Fabrics are fine, comfortable and designed as a
pleasure to wear. In terms of colour, the trend is
dominated by blackberry, lemon and violet: new
Raschel lace, shiny/matt effects and products with
“engineered” edges.
EMMEGI – FERRARIO (ITALY)
> STAND F15 NEOSKIN
Manifattura Emmegi srl merged with Manifattura
Ferrario srl in April 2009 and took the name
Emmegi – Ferrario spa following a capital increase.
Knitted fabrics: jerseys (100% combed cotton,100%
micro-modal), plains and prints; plain and yarn-
dyed knits in 95% MicroModal 5% elastane; plain
100% cotton machined weaves; cotton and polyester
machined weaves…
Woven fabrics: plain and printed 100% cotton
chiffon, plain and printed 100% cotton seersucker,
printed 100% silk seersucker, plain 100% cotton
dotted Swiss, plain and printed chiffons (using
cotton-blend satins and cloths), plain 100% cotton
voile, plain 50% cotton 50% silk voiles, plain 100%
cotton and 50% cotton, 50% silk satins, plain one-
way stretch satins in 94% cotton, 6% Lycra ®.
Prints are designed for intimates and beachwear
with specific embellishments. Motifs are trendy,
romantic and floral, etc.
FASHION RESOURCES (FRANCE)
> STAND L30 ACCESS FOLIES
Haberdashery and accessories for lingerie, ready-
to-wear and beachwear. Bra-back hook-and-eyes
in various fabrics (organza, microfibre, brushed
tricot), underwire casing, underwires, bra-cups,
boning (woven, transparent, metal-spiral and
covered), elastic, lace, diamante buckles, fantasy
tapes …
Loungewear special: transparent and
silicone rubber elastic, fancy elastic, fantasy
tapes…
For Summer 2011, hook-and-eyes and hook-and-
eye tape using microfibre (a “second-skin” fabric),
underwire-casing in microfibre and satin, injection-
moulded crystal diamante on rigid and stretch
grounds, diamante buttons, beaded and diamante
jewels, cotton lace braiding, bejewelled straps, etc.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 16
EXHIBITOR’S NEWS

HÄNDEL + DILLER (GERMANY) ILUNA (ITALY)

> STAND E13/F12 NEOSKIN > STAND A7/B10 LACE IT
Superfine E44-gauge jacquards … Iluna never fails to make an impact in the creative
domain thanks to its innovative POLYBACK
Very fine-gauge qualities, manufactured using the
technology. This technology allows for the prod­
new MicroModal AIR fibre in gauges up to E50: the
uction of mouldable Jacquardtronic lace, with a
light and fine qualities of the new MicroModal® AIR
layer of ultra-glossy polyester on the reverse-side.
fibre cannot fail to impress; it can be used to further
the quest for ever finer fabrics, achieved thanks Iluna also offers the famous “variable module” using
to potential yarn counts (Nm 225/1). This fibre is the elastomer (in the form of bands or following the
produced in accordance with sustainable development body’s curves) to create a push-up effect.
principles.
Iluna’s Summer 2011 collection sets the scene
Fabrics featuring Biophyl™, a new generation of fibre. for creativity and places the accent on contrasts:
This renewable resource (Bio-PDO) is produced from whether this involves handle (spongy and soft),
corn starch using a patented fermentation process. surface (matt and glossy) or weight (airy and dense).
Biophyl™ combines the positive characteristics of
Chantilly laces are extremely refined with the
polyester and nylon in a single fibre and lends the
simplicity of finishes taken to extremes.
fabric high stability and stiffness, as well as improved
surface quality, a glossy finish and good dimensional Eco-textiles: “eco-friendly” products can now be
stability. defined as the key to any successful lace collection.
Fibres and yarns are of natural origin and used
Fabrics featuring Trevira® Bioactive: thanks to a
in sufficient quantities to promote all forms of
special active component integrated within its fibres,
ecological awareness and responsibility.
Trevira® Bioactive helps stop the spread of bacteria and
reduce unpleasant odours. Fabrics created using this
fibre satisfy even the strictest hygiene requirements.
Moreover, they are kind to the skin, and offer excellent KURODA LACE (JAPAN)
wear-comfort with a clean and pleasant freshness.
> STAND B29/C30 LACE IT
Qualities featuring Lenpur™, produced using a special
Mainly produces a wide range of original, soft and
ecological process and offering good resistance to dirt
fine Jacquardtronic and Textronic Raschel lace
and pilling. Fabrics created using this fibre offer an
(using 32 Karl Meyer machines)…
unusually high level of skin-kindness with thermo-
Featuring ISO 9001 and Oeko-tex certification, these
regulating properties comparable to wool and linen.
laces are sure to satisfy even the most demanding
A soft, silky handle and glossy finish, reminiscent of a
brands…
mercerized yarn, are typical of Lenpur™.

Qualities featuring Viloft®, which consists of

100% eucalyptus cellulose and offers the fibre a
particularly soft and natural handle. Its flat profile
creates air chambers which insulate against the cold
and trap warmth within the fabric. Good moisture-
management properties also keep the surface of the
skin dry and comfortable.

COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 17

EXHIBITOR’S NEWS
LES TISSAGES PERRIN (FRANCE)
> STAND C17 NEOSKIN
The collections produced by Les Tissages Perrin
demonstrate a wide range of expertise, in terms
of design, handle and colour. Ever attentive to
the market and their clients, they satisfy the most
exacting specifications.
One and two-way stretch jacquards and silk:
chiffon, satin, gauze, crêpe, Georgette, twill,
“second-skin” fabrics, prints and plains …
“Seduction”  the silk line by Les Tissages
Perrin. Recognized for their refined fabrics for
intimates, Les Tissages Perrin are continuing to
develop “Seduction”, an ultra-stylish line dedicated
to garments that can be worn during the day or at
night: nighties, babydolls, camisoles and tops blur
the boundaries between revealed and concealed.
“Audacity” an “ultra-silk” range offers the ideal
showcase for precious and delicate fabrics. Silks are
becoming ever more sophisticated, offering a silky-
smooth and sensual version of comfort, handle and
refinement: soft satin, a flurry of silk, angel silk…
The codes of ultra-femininity and seduction are
sources of inspiration with romantic flowers and
bows…
Summer 2011 is seeing the return of large ginghams
on cloqué fabrics and textured effects…
A range of silk jacquards with a second-skin handle
and multicoloured jacquards. Spots are revisited in
multicoloured, tiny, or oversized versions; animal
skins and “bird” motifs are reinterpreted in the
Seduction line.
LIEBAERT (BELGIUM)
> STAND C19/D20 NEOSKIN
Jacquards produced on Raschel machines with weave
effects (transparent/opaque), zones with varying
thread counts and structures; fine and reactive
tricots on warp and circular knitting machines (very
fine gauges); a new family of cosmetic knits featuring
anti-cellulite and firming properties…
And, as always: a range of reverse jerseys, Jacquards
produced on Raschel machines for imitation
embroidery and lace, digital printing with over
500 different designs…
MAGLIFICIO RIPA (ITALY)
> STAND D31/E32 NEOSKIN
Following an in-depth analysis of the market,
Maglificio Ripa is launching Skin Comfort®, a
patented and innovative fabric, designed to fulfil
ever increasing skin compatibility requirements as
regards dermatitis and allergies, thus filling a gap in
the existing textile offering.
The Skin Comfort® project was conceived jointly
by Maglificio Ripa’s Director, Luca Bianco, and
Maurizia Botti (MR Studio Innovation Project),
a professor at the Politecnico de Milan, who
supervised and coordinated the project from start
to finish. The raw material selected was Dryarn®.
Dermatological testing has demonstrated that this
exceptional microfibre has no undesirable effect
on the skin whatsoever, even for the most sensitive
skins or highly allergic candidates.
Eco-textiles: several 100% cotton fabrics, spun
yarns using natural fibres of very high quality;
already showcased at the previous edition of
Interfilière, ULTRALIGHT Nature (gauge 54)
is presented in a MicroModal blend and LIGHT™
(gauge 44) which owes its soft handle and excellent
hold to Cupro. In the same way, LIGHT™ can be
blended with silk and cashmere, while maintaining
all the qualities of the natural fibre and flocked
viscose fabrics (gauge 28) work well with lurex for
fashion-forward effects in the intimates sector. The
Nature line in the LIGHT™ range features square
elasticity, high comfort and offers the wearer a
feeling of wellbeing. It is also excellent for pre-
setting, dries quickly and is equally well-suited to
refined lingerie, corsetry and sportswear.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 18
EXHIBITOR’S NEWS

Sustainable development: Maglificio Ripa

NOYON DENTELLE (FRANCE)
actively participates in the “Bakhita” project which
complements its ongoing research into environ­ > STAND B7/C10 LACE IT
mentally-friendly natural fibres.
Chic
Akebu is an African territory of around 1,174km²,
This core theme of the collection embodies elegance
home to around 70,000 inhabitants, divided
à la française, at once understated and luxurious,
between around 100 villages. It is an area in which
for active women, who love up-to-the-minute items
wood exploitation is very important, due to the
that play with retro. All the different techniques are
disappearance of historic forests.
used, with Jacquardtronic looming large. Floral
The women of the villages have joined forces to
motifs come in all shapes, as do scroll effects.
form the “BAKHITA  Association” whose aim is
Savoir-faire and gorgeous fabrics combine in this
to make the most of women’s potential to further
upmarket theme, which taps into motifs from the
African development. The project’s objective is to
Twenties, carefully recorded in Noyon dentelle’s
plant around 20,000 fruit-trees over 100km along
amazing archives: it’s a tribute to the past, with a
the banks of Akebu’s various rivers and streams.
contemporary twist.

MUEHLMEIER (GERMANY)
> STAND J33 ACCESS FOLIES
Trendsetters are predicting a vintage inspiration
for underwear to be worn as outerwear and
strapless corsetry: for Summer 2011, Muehlmeier
is offering a full range of bustiers featuring
integrated underwires for soft shaping, with or
without straps…
A strapless bandeau, available in extra-large sizes
up to 105 DD; “push 2 sizes” bra-cups and a new
“Décolleté” line.
Premium-Cup: an upscale selection of bra-cups
to satisfy the highest quality demands…
Muehlmeier offers new cups using very high quality
foam and fabrics for the price of standard cups…
Memory foam: crush-proof bra-cups which return
to their original shape, adapting smoothly to
all different shapes of breast… New: super soft
memory foam.
An ultrafine polyester cover lends bra-cups a silky
feel and optical effect for the price of a regular cup.
Temptation
This theme, inspired by modern architecture, is very
striking, with geometric motifs for sensual, modern
women. Rebellious and daring, sexy and a teeny bit
provocative, they flaunt their assets and assert their
personality.
Jacquardtronic and Textronic for mesh and netting
that fit clearly defined retro lines. Patchwork or
animal hide effects and other ultra graphic designs
weave a sexy attitude. Organic and studded,
camouflage details take a novel turn.
Arty
A romantic theme that’s ideal for women who state
their new desire for authenticity and simplicity,
asserting this return to classics.
They mismatch their garments, flirting with
asymmetry. Their watchwords: comfy and casual,
without sacrificing sophistication.
Jacquardtronic and Textronic prevail with dainty,
intricate lace inspired by eyelet embroidery. A new
take on archives in a dainty vintage twist, with
simple, visual designs.
Eco-textiles: organic cotton and aloe vera lines.

COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 19

EXHIBITOR’S NEWS

“Olympia” a whole spectrum of colours: the

PIAVE MAITEX (ITALY)
Swimwear 2011 colour range features a vast selection
> STAND C31 NEOSKIN of stylish shades, ranging from classics to fashion-
forward shades, warm and delicate pastels to lively
As is the case each season, Piave Maitex is always at
brights. It is being used for the first time for the
the cutting-edge of innovation.
Olympia range, a series of fine, breathable fabrics
Injecting a little fantasy into beachwear with the
offering strength, cover, quick-dry properties,
new line of elastic fabrics knitted on jacquard
stretch, softness and comfort. Olympia is produced
machines, designed to be different since they are
using Top Tex knitting, (covered by a worldwide
rich in shapes, volume, effects, reflected lights and
patent since 1996) and developed in three versions
new graphics; different because they are on-trend,
Olympia, 165g/m², Olympia Plus, 180g/m² and
elegant and original. They are presented in a range
Olympia Mirror, a bright fabric for a “wet” look.
of fashion colours with a variety of relief patterns,
arabesques, floral patterns, motifs inspired by Coldblack® sun protection: Piave Maitex carries
classical china, openwork and layered motifs. At the out ongoing research to create technical fabrics
same time, they maintain their characteristics and offering effective heat regulation and UV protection.
performances in terms of stretch, wearability, cover Dark colours absorb both visible and invisible rays
and comfort. of sunlight, generating symptoms of tiredness
and muscular stress. Long-wave UV-A rays can
Rainbow bands: thanks to its recent success,
penetrate deeply into the skin and accelerate its
the Rainbow line of warp-knitted bands has
aging process. Procuring a sensation of wellbeing
been extended. Two new versions are now being
during competitive sports contributes to athletes’
presented: the first features a black microfibre
positive state of mind. Based on these principles,
base with coloured edges and the second features
Piave Maitex has developed a series of fabrics
a coloured microfibre base with black edges. The
in cooperation with Schoeller, using Coldblack®
young and bright colour palette has been expanded
technology, a production and finishing method that
to include a selection of pastels. Moreover, research
allows fabrics to reflect the sun’s rays, reduce heat
has resulted in impressive performances in terms
gain and provide reliable protection against UV
of stretch and improved wear-comfort without
rays. A comprehensive offer, designed not only for
constriction. This has further enhanced the
sports activities but also for those who enjoy the
product’s versatility and allows for countless colour
great outdoors, playing beach volleyball or going for
combinations in the production of beachwear,
a simple jog.
underwear and outerwear garments with unlimited
stylistic creativity and freedom. At the same time,
the finished edges and “free cut” potential optimize
and simplify manufacturing possibilities.

Tender Dream: a range of jacquard fabrics

characterized by small motifs, ranging from
romantic florals to modern graphics, harmoniously
placed on a sheer ground to create a light and
discrete relief pattern. Offering perfect adhesion,
easy and comfortable to wear, these fabrics can
also be moulded to optimize the motifs; they are
light, soft and fresh, designed for young and sexy
underwear, unconventional apparel and original
beachwear coordinates.

COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 20

EXHIBITOR’S NEWS
SERAM (FRANCE)
> STAND G35/H38 ACCESS FOLIES
Accessories and decorative elements for
intimates and swimwear: bows, straps, beads,
rings, embroidery, metallic accessories, buttons,
transfers, etc.
For Summer 2011, textile transfers created
using materials which are heat-bonded with a
polyurethane film before cutting.
This technique can be used on 95% of fabrics,
including the very lightest fabrics: chiffons,
microfibres, lace...
Motifs are then applied by the client using a heat-
transfer press.
SOLSTISS (FRANCE)
> STAND B16 LACE IT
Chantilly lace is trimmed with coloured or black
thread to highlight the motif; wash-resistant
flocked velvet lace; powdery, metallic or glacé-
finish Chantilly laces which are also capable of
withstanding household washing and maintaining
their soft, silky handle.
And, as ever, lace made from silk or blends of
silk and bamboo, as well as aromatherapy using
microencapsulation.
Eco-textiles: organic cotton guipure trims and
embroidery…
TESSITURA COLOMBO ANTONIO (ITALY)
> STAND C26 LACE IT
Polyamide and viscose fabrics with a special two-
tone effect, a new range of very light narrow laces;
creation of a special stocking collection…
TIANHAI LACE (CHINA)
> STAND A17/B20 LACE IT
New technology which can be used to produce
knitted lace with embroidered and print effects on
the same piece of lace thanks to a 31-bar Textronic
machine.
Lace featuring a special net with large holes…
New type of lace using a 20D polyamide with long
filaments and Lycra® to create lace with ruffles and
a small flower motif…
Combination of a chemical lace effect and satin-
backed lace to create a feeling of hand-cut lace.
UTAX (FRANCE)
> STAND H39/J40 ACCESS FOLIES
Accessories for lingerie, corsetry and beachwear:
underwire, underwire-casing, hooks-and-eyes,
metal buckles, straps, boning, plastic fastening,
bra-forms…
For Summer 2011, Pocket nf hook and eye:
seamless hooks-and-eyes, which offer total comfort
thanks to the softness of the fabric and padding
which gives a “cushion” effect in nylon and spandex.
Ot Hybrid: underwiring which uses the properties
of memory foam to achieve foldable tips. The
wearer can thus readjust the underwire correctly
when it becomes uncomfortable.
WILLY HERMANN (AUSTRIA)
> STAND C11/D10 NEOSKIN
Following the introduction of organic cotton,
notably in a superfine 50-gauge, Willy Hermann is
now adding recycled cotton to its collection. This
responsible approach has enabled the German knit
specialist to launch two new knit qualities, with or
without elastane, created using a yarn consisting
of 20% recycled cotton and 80% conventional
cotton. The high percentage of conventional cotton
ensures that the fabric offers comparable solidity to
a traditional knit. Reactions to this new partially-
recycled knit have proved satisfactory, with clients
being sensitive to the ethical argument, as well as
the price (these two new qualities being cheaper
than a conventional cotton knit).
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 21
CASE STUDY N° 17

INTERFILIÈRE CASE STUDY N° 17

ORGANIC COTTONS,
ECOLOGICAL FIBRES AND POLYMERS
DERIVED FROM ORGANIC MATERIALS:
WHERE IS SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT HEADING?

Are these a key ingredient in any range?

At a time when it is widely agreed that the future
will be green, the question raised by exhibitors at
the Interfilière trade show is a crucial one. What is
the future of ecological fibres? Will they be confined
to a micro market, with limited scope in times of
economic crisis, or can their recognized intrinsic
proper ties help them reach the level of synthetic fibres
and non-ecological natural fibres such as conventional
cotton? For the moment, one thing is cer tain: it is clear that
a number of collections in the aisles of Interfilière are moving
in the direction of sustainable development.

A SIGN OF THE TIMES

With some viewing it as a niche market and others
seeing it as the market of the future, the organic textile
and eco-textile market is clearly influenced by the
development strategies implemented by companies in
the sector. This is particularly true for those operating
in the intimates market. Ever more attentive to
what they buy and what they wear, consumers are
as mindful of their health as they are of their wallets
and are prepared to spend 20% more to ensure that
clothing purchased is ecological.
“It looks like these products are a sign of the times.
Sidestepping the organic movement is not an option
these days. However, it’s important not to attempt to
pass off any old product as organic. It must comply
strictly with the appropriate standards. Working
with organic products is particularly difficult in our
market – the embroidery market – since threads need
to be ideal for embroidery, i.e. long and strong, and
that means long fibres. Unfortunately, long fibres
practically always involve chemical treatments,”
explains Jean Malraux, CEO of Broderies Deschamps.

COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 22

CASE STUDY N° 17
The same concerns and dilemma apply in the
lacemaking sector, where the demand has accelerated
during the last few months. “At the moment we have
a real problem with the raw materials. The only
ecological material that we could use is recycled
polyester, but that would give us problems when it
comes to dying. We feel that the industry has made
insufficient progress with regard to thread count. By
the same token, making lace from organic cotton is
currently out of the question. We would be incapable
of satisfying specifications with regard to various
issues, including pilling and shrinkage,” explains
Anne Marie Langry from Noyon.
A BRAND NEW MARKET
The organic textile market is a recent market. The
first organic cotton wasn’t really launched on the
market until 1990. Today, cotton alone represents
95% of organic textile fibre consumption. Sales have
continued to rise over the last decade or so, with
successive increases from USD 245  million in 2001
to USD 583 million in 2005 and are now in excess of
USD 2 billion. Global production of organic cotton
has increased by over 150% and reached 145,000 tons
in 2008, according to the US non-profit organisation,
Organic Exchange.
Are observers justified in wondering about the
repercussions of the worldwide economic climate on
the development of organic cotton? Some believe that
the financial crisis encourages companies to limit risks
and postpone development projects. Even though
the demand for organic cotton in the textile market
seems to have reached its upper limit over the last few
months, the intimates market is continuing to pursue
the sustainable development path. A number of young
brands, such as Eco-Boudoir, Peau Ethique, G=9.8,
Occidente, Althéane and many others, have based
their success on organic and/or fair-trade products.
Etam, Huit, Victoria’s Secret and Stella McCartney
have also embraced the organic movement.
WHAT ARE THE OPTIONS?
To be considered as organic, cotton must be grown
in “living” soil that has been free of any pesticides,
insecticides, herbicides and chemical growth
stimulators for at least three years. Organic cotton
must be grown in accordance with organic farming
principles, on natural compost, without artificial
fertilizer, chemical input or pesticides. Water
consumption must also be reduced.
Well-defined by the various certifying agencies, the
organic cotton market is an easy one to get to grips
with. In terms of raw fibre, worldwide production
represents 32.5 tons of fibre, a figure that is 20%
higher than demand, according to the Cirad.
When it comes to defining ecological fibres we
should nevertheless proceed with caution, since it
is important not to confuse natural vegetable fibres
(some offering a lower environmental impact) with
polymers of organic origin, ecological cellulose-based
fibres, such as Lyocell, or recycled synthetic fibres.
Produced using seeds, stalk, leaves or bark, vegetable
fibres (which belong to the natural fibre category,
alongside animal fibres) are proving very popular in
current collections.
In addition to age-old fibres such as manila, hemp,
coir, cotton of course, jute and linen, ramie and
sisal, avant-garde designers are introducing or
reintroducing us to a number of fibres with interesting
ecological properties. The majority of them satisfying
the requirements of today’s intimates market: light,
insulating and antibacterial.
Nettles: a very robust and naturally insulating hollow
fibre, which does not require water or pesticides.
Boasting relaxing properties, Hinoki cypress trees
offer an antibacterial fibre, obtained by recycling
residues.
Peat, which is used as a textile fibre, but also as a fuel
and fertilizer, is the perfect choice from an ecological
point of view: the fibre’s tubular structure makes it
insulating and light. Hypoallergenic, it is also highly
absorbent and antiseptic.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 23
CASE STUDY N° 17
Developed in Japan,  fibres obtained from coconut
shells have a porous structure. Light and insulating,
they also offer deodorizing properties.  Sugar-cane
is another fibre that is currently being developed in
Japan. The fibre is obtained from the residues left
by sugar production. Like coconut, the fibre is then
combined with cotton and appreciated for its dry
and fresh handle, its deodorizing and antibacterial
properties and breathability. Produced exclusively in
China, the apocynum fibre has been used since ancient
times. It combines the appearance of silk with a cotton
handle and the strength of linen. Growing this hardy
perennial also helps combat desertification. A number
of therapeutic virtues are also attributed to the fibre,
including a capacity to help regulate blood pressure.
AN EVER EXPANDING RANGE
Having made a discrete debut around five years ago
with a few knit specialists, organic cotton has gained
ground, notably from German knit companies, who
include it almost systematically in the range, as is the
case for Elastic Textile Europe. Although…
“We’re not sensing an increasing demand for organic
products at the moment. Not in the intimates sector
anyway. Having said that, we have maintained two
or three versions in the last three collections, using
conventional dying techniques or simple washes”,
explains Sebastian Hotz, Sales Director at Händel &
Diller.
The range would no doubt be more convincing if it
featured ecological dyes, however the company be-
lieves that this would lead to price issues. Like Piave
Maitex, which has recently launched a whole range
of ICEA/Gots-certified organic cotton knits going by
the name of PM Bio, the German company currently
relies principally on Biophyl™, a popular fibre with
cutting-edge brands such as Bruno Banani, as well as
more conventional brands like Falke.
A pioneer in the organic cotton domain, having offered
it for six years already, Taubert has noticed that the
demand has evolved. The German knit specialist feels
that it launched the product too soon and now prefers
to limit its use in basic fabrics to bespoke orders with
OekoTex-certified dyestuffs. It continues to believe in
the product, however, and launches new blends with
polyamide or polyester to optimize stability.
Other firms also share the view that organic cotton is
only in its teething stages. From there, launching a full
programme is just one step away, as demonstrated by
BeBe Cotton and Penn Textile Solutions.
BeBe Cotton’s rescue plan entitled ROSE (Reducing-
Recycling-Rescue/Ozone-Organic-Original/Save-
Sustain-Safe/Ecofriendly-Evolution-Earth) includes
blends of organic cotton and dyed cotton in a range
that the Taiwan-based producer has designed to be
both ecological and original.
Faced with a sometimes harsh reality, an alternative
vision of organic cotton is possible, enabling it to
shake off its reputation as overpriced. With its Dream
Respect collection, certified by the Organic Exchange,
Penn Textile Solutions has chosen to highlight the
noble, respectful and elegant aspects, as well as the
creative, attractive and sexy side of organic cotton.
“Above all, we were aiming to satisfy the requirements
of our clients who were looking for elegant organic
products, featuring all the qualities of polyamide,”
sums up Thomas Siemensmeyer.
Also highly creative, as well as being wonderfully soft,
the organic cotton embroidery and guipure trims pro-
duced by Solstiss took two years to develop. Although
Solstiss succeeded in resolving the technical problems
posed by the threads after considerable testing, it has
still failed to find a solution to the price problem with
its supplier, since organic cotton can cost 30 to 40%
more than conventional cotton. “We’d need to be in a
position to order vast quantities of thread to obtain a
reasonable price. Although we do have considerable
demand from the US, I don’t think the market is suffi-
ciently mature yet to absorb mile after mile of organic
cotton,” explains Isabelle Clochette.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 24
CASE STUDY N° 17
POLYMERS: A POPULAR CHOICE
Recent research has allowed for the development of
new fibres using exclusively ecological and renewable
materials. The ecological properties but also, and
above all, the undeniable physical qualities of the
following three fibres have earned them a high profile
and veritable success for a number of months.
Biophyl™: is obtained from corn sugar. Ecologically
sound, Biophyl™ takes three times less energy to
produce than a polyamide. Its production generates
60% less greenhouse gasses. Articles created using
Biophyl™ can be dyed at lower temperatures than
conventional polyesters. Soft and comfortable,
stretchy and strong, easycare and UV-resistant,
Biophyl™ is definitely one of the ecological fibres of
the future.
Rilsan®PA 11: the only polyamide with a production
process based on an ecological and renewable
material - castor beans - Rilsan®PA 11  is produced
from the oil, which is transformed into a technical
polymer. Developed in France under the name
Greenfil®, yarns using Rilsan®PA 11  offer excellent
dimensional stability. Fresh, light, bacteriostatic and
heat-regulating, they are perfectly abrasion-resistant.
Biofront®: manufactured by Teijin Fibers Limited,
this polylactic acid (PLA) is a polymer derived from
corn starch. Producing Biofront® has no impact on
the balance of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere.
Launched in 2006, its properties have since been
enhanced. It now offers ten times more resistance to
heat and solvents than a conventional PLA. Biofront®
even claims to be as durable as a PET.
THE IMPORTANCE OF RECYCLING
While some companies still see so-called ecological
materials, such as bamboo fibre or carbon, as an
alternative to sustainable development (DJIC Ltd,
Muelhmeier, Cheynet, etc.), keeping an eye on
evolutions in the domain of recycled materials is a wiser
choice. Industry sectors are becoming increasingly
organized and various recycled polyesters and
polyamides, currently produced by Asian companies
in particular, were present in several summer 2009
collections. Piave Maitex offers a number of versions
using recycled nylon and polyester, while Charming
Fabrics is focusing its attention on a double circular
knit in recycled polyester only.
Forster Rohner is launching an Eco Chic line which
also uses a recycled polyester yarn.
Accessories and trim suppliers do not intend to be
left on the sidelines. SATAB is launching a full range
using recycled polyester for the first time: satin
ribbons, grosgrain, taffeta, twill weaves. “Priced at
only a fraction more, these ribbons are created using
polyesters derived from plastic that has already been
used and recycled. We do not add any non-recycled
auxiliary materials and energy consumption is fully
optimized. Quality is as regular as our conventional
ribbons and they boast the same characteristics and
the same compliance with standards,” explains Jean
Candela, Sales Director at Satab.
Also committed to an ecologically-responsible policy
for the last year, Willy Hermann, which offers organic
cotton in a fine 50-gauge, has just added two new
“partially” recycled cotton products. Having found it
impossible to achieve a sufficiently strong and high-
quality recycled cotton, Willy Hermann has chosen to
blend a conventional cotton with 20% recycled cotton
and judging by the warm welcome received by these
two new knits, this step towards saving the planet
appeals to clients.
COMPULSORY REFERENCE: INTERFILIÈRE JANUARY 2010 25
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