Copyright © 2011 by Maria Speck

Photographs copyright © 2011 by Sara Remington

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint
of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are
registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Excerpt from The Philosophy of Andy Warhol: From A to B and Back Again copyright © 1975
by Andy Warhol, reprinted in the United States and its territories by permission of Houghton
Mifflin Harcourt, outside of the United States by permission of Penguin Books Ltd., and reprinted
electronically by permission of The Wylie Agency LLC.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Speck, Maria.
Ancient grains for modern meals : Mediterranean whole grain recipes for barley, farro, kamut,
polenta, wheat berries & more / Maria Speck.
p. cm.
Summary: “A whole-grain cookbook featuring well-balanced and wholesome recipes inspired by
the Mediterranean cuisines of Greece, southern France, Italy, and Turkey”— Provided by publisher.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-58008-354-6 (hardback)
1. Cooking (Cereals) 2. Grain. 3. Cooking, Mediterranean. 4. Cookbooks. I. Title.
TX808.S665 2011
641.59822—dc22
2010045867

ISBN 978-1-58008-354-6

Printed in China

Cover and text design by Nancy Austin

Food styling by Katie Christ
Prop styling by Nyssa Quanstrom

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

First Edition
 Kamut Salad with Carrots and Pomegranate
Across the Middle East, cinnamon is used not only to highlight the flavor of sweets but also in savory
dishes—as in this Moroccan-inspired carrot salad. I toss it here with slender Kamut berries, which con-
tribute their distinct buttery chew. Vibrantly colorful and deliciously juicy, this salad steals the show on
my holiday table. Try it also next to steak, grilled lamb, or a simple roast chicken. Serves 4 to 6

Kamut 1 To prepare the Kamut, bring the water and the Kamut berries to a boil
1 cup water in a small heavy-bottomed saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain
1/2 cup Kamut berries, soaked over- a simmer, cover, and cook until the Kamut berries are tender but still
night and drained slightly chewy, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the heat and, if you
have time, let it sit, covered, for 10 to 15 minutes. Drain any remaining
liquid and transfer to a large serving bowl to cool.
salad, and to finish
2 Once the Kamut has cooled, make the salad. Add the carrots and
2 1/2 cups shredded carrots
golden raisins to the serving bowl. In a small bowl, whisk together
(about 3 medium)
the orange and lemon juices, honey, cinnamon, and salt until smooth.
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons golden
Gradually whisk in the olive oil in a thin stream.
raisins
3 To finish, pour the dressing over the salad and toss to combine. Taste
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed and adjust for salt. Let sit at room temperature for 15 minutes to allow
orange juice the flavors to come together. Toss again before serving; sprinkle with
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed the walnuts and garnish with the pomegranate seeds.
lemon juice to get a head start: Make the Kamut berries, as in step 1, ahead (see
1 teaspoon honey page 23). In a hurry on the day of a party? The salad (without the
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon walnuts and pomegranate seeds) can be prepared 4 to 6 hours ahead.
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt Chill, covered. Bring to room temperature before serving.
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil to vary it: You can use about 11/2 cups cooked farro, spelt, or hard or
1/4 cup toasted, chopped walnuts
soft wheat berries if Kamut is hard to find (for cooking instructions,
see page 25).
(see page 37)
1/4 cup pomegranate seeds, for
garnish (optional) How to Seed a Pomegranate

Chefs will use different ways to get to the glistening and juicy-
crisp seeds of a pomegranate, a gorgeous fruit with blood-red
leathery skin, revered since antiquity. I use a method that has
worked well for me over the years. Have a medium-size bowl
ready. Rinse the pomegranate and cut it lengthwise into quarters
with a sharp serrated knife. Using both hands and working over
the bowl, gently pull apart each piece to release the seeds that are
nestled between skin “chambers.” Remove any little skin pieces
that might drop into the bowl. Be sure to wear an apron!

SALADS & SIDES 87

Spec_9781580083546_3p_002_r1.indd 87 11/17/10 4:25 PM

Spec_9781580083546_3p_002_r1.indd 86 11/17/10 4:25 PM
Mediterranean Mussels with Farro and White Wine
Pleasingly chewy farro and tender-sweet mussels are culinary siblings of sorts. Both share a rewarding
lip-smacking plumpness, which makes them a perfect match in this easy one-pot stew. Don’t let the
length of the ingredients list keep you from giving it a try—this straightforward preparation is on the
table fast. Serve with a crusty baguette to mop up the intensely flavorful, wine-infused mussel juices
and extra olive oil to drizzle on top.
The wine you use does not have to be expensive. Even a downright basic bottle can result in a
fruity and aromatic sauce. I prefer smaller, wild-caught mussels, which typically cook in just under
3 minutes. Cultivated mussels might take 5 to 8 minutes. For more on varieties of farro, see page 16.
Serves 3 or 4 as a light main course, or 4 to 6 as a starter

farro 1/4teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

11/2cups water
3/4cup farro
1 small bay leaf
2 whole peppercorns
Pinch of fine sea salt
stew
2 pounds fresh mussels in their shells
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
(about 1 small)
1 cup thinly sliced carrots
(about 2 small)
1 cup thinly sliced celery stalks
(1 to 2 pieces)
2 to 3 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary
2 bay leaves
1 dried red chile
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
11/2 cups dry white wine
11/2 cups chopped fresh or diced
canned tomatoes with their
juices, (one 14-ounce can)
11/2 cups water
1 teaspoon sugar
to finish
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice,
plus lemon wedges to serve
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
1 To prepare the farro, bring the water, farro, bay leaf, peppercorns,
and salt to a boil in a 2-quart saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain
a simmer, cover, and cook until the grain is tender but still slightly
chewy, 20 to 25 minutes. Remove the bay leaf, drain any remaining
liquid, and set aside.
2 While the farro simmers, rinse the mussels under cold running water,
brushing to remove sand and residue on the shells. Remove the beards
(hairy clumps around the shell) with tweezers or a sharp knife. Discard
chipped mussels. Tap any open mussels and discard if they don’t close.
Set the cleaned mussels aside.
3 To make the stew, heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy-
bottomed pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, car-
rots, celery, garlic, 1 teaspoon of the rosemary, the bay leaves, chile, and
1/4 teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring frequently, until the vegetables
soften, 3 to 5 minutes. Increase the heat to medium-high, add 1/4 cup
of the white wine, and cook until syrupy and the liquid is almost gone,
about 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes, the water, the remaining 11/4 cups
white wine, the pepper, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt; bring to a
continued, page 114

112 ANCIENT GRAINS FOR MODERN MEALS

Mediterranean Mussels with

Farro and White Wine, continued

from page 112

boil. Cook, uncovered, at a lively simmer until the carrots are crisp-
tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in the sugar.
4 Add the mussels and the farro together with the remaining 1 teaspoon
rosemary to the pot and bring to a boil. Cover and steam over medium
to medium-high heat, shaking the pot once or twice in between, until
the mussels open, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat, and discard
any unopened mussels.
5 To finish, add the lemon juice. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust.
Drizzle the mussels with the olive oil and serve right away in deep
plates, garnished with parsley and with lemon wedges on the side.
to get a head start: Make the farro, as in step 1, ahead (see page 23).
The stew, as in step 3, can be prepared up to 3 days ahead. Reheat
before adding the mussels and farro, as in step 4. The mussels should
be bought the day they are cooked. For a speedy, light dish, omit the
farro altogether, and do not add the water to the stew.
to vary it: Easily available and affordable pearl barley plumps up nicely
to compete with farro in this dish, or simply use leftover brown rice.
You will need about 2 cups cooked grain (for cooking instructions,
see page 25).

114 ANCIENT GRAINS FOR MODERN MEALS

 Greek Millet Saganaki with Shrimp and Ouzo
A saganaki is a traditional two-handled skillet in which Greeks serve aromatic one-pot dishes, typically
topped with cheese. This recipe is a play on the classic shrimp and feta saganaki, to which I have added
millet for a deliciously satisfying meal, finished with a dash of ouzo to infuse the shrimp with its distinc-
tive anise flavor. A Dutch oven doubles beautifully as a serving vessel, or transfer the cooked millet to a
shallow serving bowl and top with the ouzo-infused shrimp. Serves 4

millet shrimp, and to finish

11/4cups water 1 pound jumbo shell-on shrimp,
3/4cup millet deveined and patted dry
1 bay leaf Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Pinch of fine sea salt 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup ouzo, or other anise-flavored liqueur

saganaki 1/4 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
(about 1 small)
1 clove garlic, peeled and slightly
crushed
1 small hot green chile, minced
(optional)
1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes,
crushed in a bowl
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black
pepper
1/2 cup green pimiento-stuffed
olives, halved if large
4 ounces coarsely crumbled Greek
feta cheese (about 1 cup), prefer-
ably sheep’s milk
1 To prepare the millet, bring the water, millet, bay leaf, and salt to a boil
in a 2-quart saucepan. Decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, cover,
and cook until the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Remove from
the heat and let sit, covered, for 5 to 10 minutes. Uncover, remove the
bay leaf, and set aside to cool.
2 Meanwhile, make the saganaki. Heat the olive oil in a large Dutch oven
or large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat until it shimmers.
Add the onion, garlic, chile, and salt; cook, stirring frequently, until the
onion softens and turns light golden, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato
paste and cook, stirring, until it darkens, about 1 minute. Add the toma-
toes with their juices and the pepper; bring to a boil over medium-high
heat. Decrease the heat to maintain a light boil and cook, uncovered, for
3 minutes.
3 Stir in the millet and green olives. Taste for salt and pepper and
adjust (keeping in mind that olives and feta cheese can be quite salty).
Remove the pot from the heat, sprinkle with the feta, and cover to
allow the cheese to soften.
4 To prepare the shrimp, season them with salt and pepper. Heat the
olive oil in a 12-inch skillet over high heat until it shimmers. Add the
shrimp. Cook, undisturbed, until the shrimp turn golden, 1 to 2 minutes,
and then flip them with a spatula and cook until they are just opaque
throughout, 1 to 2 more minutes, depending on the size. Add the
ouzo and cook until syrupy, about 30 seconds. Using a spatula, briskly
remove the shrimp from the pan and arrange on top of the millet.
Sprinkle with the parsley and serve at once.

186 ANCIENT GRAINS FOR MODERN MEALS

Spec_9781580083546_3p_003_r1.indd 186 11/17/10 4:28 PM

Spec_9781580083546_3p_003_r1.indd 187 11/17/10 4:28 PM
Wheat Berry Fools with Grand Marnier Figs
This is how I like to eat my wheat berries—and not just on Sundays. Softly whipped cream and naturally
thick Greek yogurt make a winning combination, resulting in a lofty dessert with a snappy tartness. Soft
wheat berries are my first choice here, but other leftover cooked berries from the wheat family work
just as nicely, especially spelt, Kamut, or farro (for cooking instructions, see pages 24–25). Hard wheat
berries add a bit too much chew for my taste. If you want to make this for children, plump the figs in
freshly squeezed orange juice instead of liqueur. This concoction would be equally delicious as a deca-
dent topping for the saffron waffles (page 51), or add it as a treat to a brunch table on the weekend.
Serves 6 to 8

3/4 cup finely chopped dried figs,
preferably Turkish or Greek
3 tablespoons Grand Marnier
or other good-quality orange-
flavored liqueur
1 cup plain whole-milk Greek
yogurt
4 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon
freshly grated orange zest
(about 2 oranges)
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 cup cooked soft whole wheat
berries
1 cup heavy whipping cream,
chilled
1 Combine the figs and the liqueur in a small bowl and set aside to
plump for 15 minutes, stirring once or twice, while you prep the
ingredients.
2 Meanwhile, beat the yogurt with 2 tablespoons of the honey, 1 table-
spoon of the orange zest, and the cinnamon in a large bowl until
smooth. Stir in the wheat berries. Using a hand mixer at medium speed,
whip the cream in a medium bowl until foamy. Add the remaining
2 tablespoons honey and continue whipping until soft peaks form.
3 Drain the figs, reserving their juices. Combine 2 tablespoons of the figs
with the remaining 1 teaspoon zest in a small bowl and set aside for
garnish. Stir the remaining figs into the bowl with the yogurt mixture.
Scrape one-third of the whipped cream on top and fold in using a
spatula. Fold in the remaining whipped cream in 2 additions until just
incorporated. Divide among serving bowls, cover with plastic wrap,
and chill for 2 hours. To serve, top each bowl with a bit of the reserved
figs and their juices.
to get a head start: The dessert can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead.
Add a dash more liqueur to the figs reserved for the garnish, if necessary.
to lighten it up: You can use lowfat plain Greek yogurt, if you like.

SWEET ENDINGS 203