12 Sediment transport

Introduction A major assumption in this approach is that This was taken into account in the model
the local coastal section is treated as calibration process (values adopted for other
Understanding of coastal sediment transport prismatic: that is, the local nearshore depth sediment and wave parameters are shown in
is an important component in coastal zone contours are assumed to be straight and table 19).
management. Sediment flows shape the parallel. This assumption is acceptable over Figure 30 Mean grain size versus sorting for
system of dunes, beaches and offshore relatively long and continuous coastal sections, sandy sediment units (from Jones 1987)
banks that are crucial for coastal protection but it does not allow detailed study of two-
and beach amenity. Estimates of longshore dimensional sediment transport around
sediment transport rates within the study complex topography (as in the lee of headlands).
area are required for an assessment of the
overall sedimentation regime and can Estimates of net sediment flows were
provide an insight into potential long-term averaged over time periods considerably
changes in the shoreline position and longer than individual tidal cycles or storm
sediment budget. events. This provided estimates of long-term
average net sediment transport rates due to
Sediment transport in the Mackay coastal the wave climate and the tidal current climate
region is driven primarily by the action of waves associated with the astronomical tide.
and tidal flows. In general, waves from the Nearshore wave and current conditions are
predominant south-easterly sector and the input into Unibest in the form of a climate,
dominant northward-setting ebb tidal stream each condition being assigned a relative
combine to drive sediment in a generally duration. The model integrates the results
northerly direction through the study area. from each condition to determine the total
average sediment transport rate.
The large tidal range of the region has an
important bearing on sediment transport The sediment transport formula of van Rijn
patterns due to the variation of water level at uses D50 and D90 parameters to represent
the shoreline as well as the generation of the sediment size. The values adopted for
tidal currents. Both steady state and oscillatory this study are derived from average COPE
flows play important roles in sediment measurements of sediment size and are
dynamics, and the two interact with each shown, along with their corresponding fall
other via the wave and current boundary velocities, in table 18. The density of the
layers. It is therefore critical that the two are sediment was taken as 2650kg/m3. Jones
considered together, even though waves and (1987) conducted an extensive sediment
tidal currents are generated by independent survey further offshore (sample locations are
processes. seen in figure 29). This study classified
sediment units by the mean grain size and
the degree of sorting (figure 30).
Longshore transport
modelling The Unibest CL+ model assumes the
sediment size is constant across the profile,
A number of empirical and semi-empirical but analyses of sediment samples show Table 19 Values of sediment and wave
sediment transport formulae have been there is some variation in sediment sizes parameters used in sediment transport
developed for use in coastal applications. across most profiles. modelling
The commonly used formula of van Rijn (1989) Parameter Symbol Value
is appropriate for use in the Mackay region
Wave breaking constant c 1
as it considers the processes of entrainment, Table 18 Sediment sizes used in longshore
transportation and deposition under the transport model Wave breaking parameter 2 0.7
action of waves and steady currents. Wave bed friction coefficient fw 0.01
Beach D50 D90 ws
The application of this formula in this study m m (m/s) Bottom roughness (m) kb 0.25
was primarily through the Delft Hydraulics Far Beach 700 1000 0.079 Current bottom roughness (m) rc 0.10
software system Unibest CL+ (version 5.01). Harbour Beach 500 950 0.059 Wave bottom roughness (m) rw 0.10
Unibest CL+ is a one-dimensional modelling
Lamberts Beach 550 1000 0.065 2
Seawater viscosity (m /s )2
 1.0 x 10–6
system only. It combines a model of nearshore
hydrodynamics and the sediment transport Blacks Beach 350 750 0.040 Porosity p 0.40
model to determine longshore sediment Bucasia Beach 350 750 0.040 Reference height ratio a/h 0.01
transport perpendicular to a fixed profile.

Mackay Coast Study 51

Figure 29 Extent of sediment sampling by Jones (1987)

52 Mackay Coast Study

Table 20 Predicted longshore transport rates
Beach Survey profile Longshore transport
rate (m3/a1)
Town/Far MAC108 –
Harbour (S) MAC124 35 900
Harbour (N) MAC134 32 900
Blacks MAC159 28 000
Bucasia MAC179 20 200
Table 20 provides the summary output from
the model for the four locations. The results
show a net average transport rate along
Harbour Beach south of about 36,000m3/a
moving northwards. Volumetric analysis of
survey data at Harbour Beach, taking into
account the documented sand extraction
rates in this area, has been used to verify the
modelled transport rate. This model was then
applied throughout the study area.
Figure 31 shows the distribution of longshore
sediment transport across the profile at
Harbour Beach south. The results show that
sediment transport is negligible beyond a
point approximately 500m offshore.
The longshore sediment transport rates have
been derived from long-term average wave and
tidal current conditions. Analysis of the
calculated rates at Harbour Beach shows that
50 percent of the total longshore sediment
transport occurs when the offshore wave
conditions exceed a threshold in the order
of 1.7m. This value represents an annual
exceedance of five percent, therefore it is clear
that a large proportion of longshore sediment
transport at Mackay occurs episodically
during higher wave energy events. The overall
sedimentation patterns are therefore sensitive
to variations in the wave climate.
The transport rate reduces further north from
the Pioneer River:
 on Harbour Beach north the rate is reduced
slightly due to the change in the coastline
orientation compared to Harbour Beach
south; and
 at the northern end of Blacks Beach, the
estimated rate is reduced again. The
difference is in the order of 5000m3/a and
is attributed to the rate of supply to the
nearshore shoals.
Cross-shore sediment
transport
The short-term erosion of beaches in response
to storm wave conditions is well known and
is an important consideration in coastal
management planning. An equally important
response is the shoreward transport of
sediment during moderate wave conditions
to rebuild the upper beach and dunes.
The prediction of sediment transport across a
beach profile is relatively more complex than
the prediction of longshore transport rates. In
general, the net rate and direction of cross-
shore sediment transport are the result of a
balance between several mechanisms
including:
 onshore movement driven by the
asymmetry of wave orbital currents in the
surf zone;
 the offshore-directed return flow;
 the effects of bound long waves;
 currents generated by the incoming and
outgoing tides; and
 aeolian (wind-driven) transport of sand
driven onshore by the predominantly
south-easterly winds acting over dry
sections of the beach.
The macrotidal environment accentuates the
latter two mechanisms, particularly over the
areas of wide intertidal flats.
Figure 31 Cross–shore distribution of longshore sediment transport at Harbour Beach
Numerical models of cross-shore sediment
transport processes generally fall into two
categories, according to the characteristic
time scale used to resolve sediment motion
(Larson 1996). Microscale models attempt to
describe the processes under individual waves
and overall results are gained by integrating
over time. Mesoscale models simulate the
time-averaged processes, which are the result
of many waves. Typically, mesoscale models
are more reliable in describing broadscale
beach profile changes, such as short-term
erosion in response to storm events. These
models are less successful in simulating
onshore sediment transport and details such
as the formation of nearshore bars.
No attempt has been made to undertake
generalised numerical simulation of cross-
shore transport rates as part of this study.
Modelling of short-term storm erosion using
the SBEACH model has been used as part of
the review of erosion prone areas. This is
described in the discussion of short-term
erosion. Some information on cross-shore
sediment transport has been inferred from
survey data and analysis of aerial photography.
This was primarily used for the assessment
of movement of shoals in Slade Bay.
Mackay Coast Study 53