TEXTILE FINISHING

Any operation (other than preparation and coloring) that improves the appearance and/or
usefulness of fabric after it leaves the loom or knitting machine.

TERMS USED TO CATEGORIZE FINISHES

• Chemical
• Mechanical
• Wet
• Dry
• Durable
• Non-durable Chemical Finishes

Resin Finishes (’Permanent Press’?

• Used on cotton or rayon

• Keeps fabric smooth after washing and drying with little or no ironing needed
• Improves shrinkage control
• Reduces fabric strength
• May have odor problem
• All resins contain formaldehyde

SOFTENERS

• Generally used with resins t o improve the way the fabric feels
• May cause fastness problems
• May cause yellowing or odor problems
• Soil Release Finishes
• Used extensively on carpets and upholstery fabrics
• Also used on apparel fabrics, especially those containing polyester
• Very durable if applied at the finishing plant; little durability if applied by the consumer
Three main types
1. Wax finish
2. Silicone finish
3. Fluorhefinish
4.Flame Retardant Very important finish, especially for children’s sleepwear Can be
accomplished by using special fiber types or by applying special chemical finishes.
FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

The properties of synthetic fibers, most important among them being polyamide, polyester and
polyacrilonitrile, are essentially different from those of natural cellulosic and wool fibers. Hence
the sequence of finishing operations is likely to be different. While cellulosic's require a resin
finishing treatment to impart easy-care properties, synthetic fibers already have these easy-care
criteria and require only a heat setting operation. The use of 100% synthetic textiles has
increased considerably since the arrival texurised yarns consisting of filaments and the growing
production of knit goods. The use of open weave has enabled production of lighter, air
permeable, fabrics to ensure better wearing comfort.

HEAT SETTING

Heat setting of synthetic fabrics eliminates the internal tensions within the fiber generated during
manufacture and the new state can be fixed by rapid cooling. This heat setting fixes the fabrics in
the relaxed state and thus avoids subsequent shrinkage or creasing of fabric. Presetting of goods
make it possible to use higher temperature for setting without considering the sublimation
properties of dyes and also has a favorable effect on dyeing behavior and running properties of
goods. On the other hand, post setting can be combined with some other operations such as
thermosol dyeing or optical brightening of polyester, post setting as a final finish is useful to get
a high dimensional stability along with desired handle.
The application of heat in heat setting can be done by hot air, on a pin stenter at 220c for 20-30
seconds for polyester goods and at a lower temperature range of 190-225C for 15 -20 seconds for
polyamides . Acrylics may be heat set partially at 170-190 c for 15-60 seconds to reduce
formation of running creases. But higher temperature should be avoided to prevent yellowing.
Hydro setting is so rarely used particularly to get fuller and softer handle on polyamides at 125-
135c in autoclaves for 20-30 minutes. It can be combined with dyeing or optical brightening.
Steam setting can be done by saturated or super heated steam. During steaming, uniform
treatment can be ensured by initial sequence of alternate short steaming and vacuum application
for 20-30 min at 130C under pressure. Super heated steam can be used in stenters and setting
time is 25% shorter than for hot air on account of quicker heating up rate. Acrylic fibers have to
be protested as some may under go excessive shrinkage or loss of handle. Before the material is
heat set, it should be thoroughly washed to remove spin preparations, lubricants, sizing agents
and impurities as these are likely to be burned in drying heat setting making their removal
difficult.

FILLING AND STIFFENING FINISHES

A stiffening effect is desirable in certain polyamides and polyester materials for petticoats, collar
interlinings, etc., which can be done by reducing the mutual independence of structural element
of fabric by polymer deposition on coating as a fine film. Some special Urea-formaldehyde pre-
condensates have been found to be useful. Application of film-forming acrylates dispersions as
well as latex rubber emulsions gives a fuller effect with sufficient stiffness.
When softening is desired it can be achieved by reducing the frictional coefficient between
structural elements of fabrics, cationic long chain fatty derivatives and silicones may be used in
conjunction with polymer forming agents. Recently some cationic softeners having reactive
functional groups have been developed to get better fastness of finish.

HYDROPHILIC FINISHES

On account of lower moisture and water absorption capacity synthetic fiber materials become
uncomfortable in contact with skin. Certain products based on modified (oxy-ethylated)
polyamides makes the wearing more pleasant by reducing the cohesion of water so that it spreads
over a larger area and thus evaporates more rapidly.

ANTI-PILLING FINISHES

Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun yarn fabrics especially when they
contain synthetics. Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface of fabric due to their
smooth surface and circular cross section and due to their higher tensile strength and abrasion
resistance; the pills formed take a long time to be abraded by wear. With knit fabric, two more
problems occur, viz., "picking" where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out of yarn
loops onto the surface when garment catches a pointed or rough object. These two effects are
more predominant in the weave, is more open and yarn is bulkier.
The finish has to cement the fibers within the yearn so that their dragging becomes more
difficult, without affecting the handle adversely. Special polymer formers of acrylate type or
latex type are useful but should form a film of good cohesion, should hydrophilic and should not
form a tacky surface. Padding in polymer dispersion or emulsion followed by drying at moderate
temperature gives the desired effect.

PERMANENT ANTI-STATIC EFFECTS

Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert and require Thermosol or heat
treatment for fixing on polyester goods. Agents of polyether type are found to be useful but
should not affect the dye-equilibrium on fiber otherwise the rubbing fastness is impaired. In
general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good soil release action which is as
permanent as the anti-static effect. Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being
curable at moderate temperatures.

NON-SLIP FINISHES

Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics are particularly prone to slip because
of their surface smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and appearance is no loner
attractive. To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a rougher surface. Silica-gel
dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are quite useful and they are used with advantage in
combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to get more permanent effect along with
simultaneous improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging. These polymer finishes are also
capable of imparting a soft and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting water
repellency.

FIRE RESISTANT FINISHES

With synthetic fiber which melts on igniting by a flame, the molten moss is itself quite
dangerous and a fire resistant treatment is desirable for certain end uses. Polyester fabrics can be
made flame resistant by treatment with an aqueous emulsion of xylene soluble 2, 3-
dibromopropyl phosphate in a pad-cure sequence. A semi-permanent effect can be produced by
treating with a mixture of ammonium bromide and brominated phosphoric acid esters.
Polyamides can be made flame resistant by applying phosphorous tri-chloride ammonia reaction
products or ammonium bromide with amino-triazine condensation products. For acrylics tris-
dibromopropyl-phosphate as well as 2-cyanoethyl-tetramethyl-di-amino-phosphate is quite
effective.

ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISHES

With the increasing use synthetic fibers for carpets and other materials in public places, anti-
microbial finishes have assumed importance. A reduction in soiling tendency will along way in
keeping textiles free from germs and usual soil repellant as well as soil release finishes are
effective in some way. Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols,
quaternary ammonium compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds which can be applied as
solutions or dispersions. They can also be incorporated in a polymeric film deposited on the
surface to get controlled release. Some reactive systems similar to those for reactive dyes have
been recently tried to incorporate anti-microbial structural features.

WRINKLE FREE FINISHES

The wrinkle free finish (also known as "Easy Care", Durable Press", "and Wrinkle-Resistant “,”
Wash and Wear, No-Iron" etc.) is obtained by cross-linking cotton. Permanent press finishes
function by forming cross-links between adjacent cellulose polymer chains; these give cotton
some elastic and resiliency properties. Such cross-linked cotton can recover from deformation
stresses and thus wrinkles will not form.

Even today, DMDHEU is the main cross-linking agent.

With magnesium chloride as the acid catalyst to initiate a reaction, it forms cross links in the
amorphous regions of the fibre. The structure and reaction of DMDHEU is shown in the figure 1.
Through the reaction (>NCH2=>NH+HCHO) free formaldehyde is released. Inadequate curing
also leads to the liberation of formaldehyde at high temperature. A number of approaches have
been developed to limit the amount of formaldehyde released, such as after washing of cured
fabrics; the addition of formaldehyde scavengers like carbohydrazide to the bath; use of urea in
the pad-bath or application through a spray; modification of DMDHEU to etherized, glycolated
or methylated DMDHEU

Alternatives to DMDHEU are also being researched. Main alternatives are polycarboxlicacids,
typically BTCA (1, 2, 3, 4 butane tetra carboxylic acid) or citric acid. However, BTCA is
expensive to use and citric acid causes yellowing. Another approach has been to use polymers of
maleic acid to form ester cross-links, and yet another to fix a quaternary group through an
epoxidation reaction to the cellulose chain to form cross-links. Research on all these alternatives

continues. Commercially, it is the modified DMDHEU (glycolated or methylated) that is most

used today. The product is pre-buffered to prevent premature curing and also pre-blended with a
catalyst. Magnesium based catalysts are the most popular in use today. Citric acid or aluminum
chloride can also be blended to increase catalysis when curing times are short. A typical formula
for a pre-cure or post-cure finish is as follows: DMDHEU (45%), 2-20% of weight of DMDHEU
but not less than 1% owb; wetting agent. 0.1% owb; and softeners, 2-8% owb.

The wetting agent allows the fibre to be internally penetrated, so cross linking can take place
throughout the fibre cross-section. A high density polyethylene restores some of the lost tear
strength and abrasion resistance by providing lubrication. It also has a synergetic effect with
silicone or fatty-based softeners to produce a very pleasing hand. Among the silicone softeners,
reactive polysiloxanies with silanol functional end-groups ( Fig 2 ) act as elastomeric finishes
imparting higher crease resistance, good dimensional stability (smooth drying properties) and
excellent soft handle with good sewability. They can also reduce free formaldehyde release by
replacing part of the resin. Several types are available today: Pretavyl VP 1601A by Boehme
Filatex Inc., and siltouch RS by Yorkshire Chemicals.
CONTROLLED COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE

The internationally well-known and most important shrinking process today dates back more
than 70 years. Though the correct expression for this process is Controlled Compressive
Shrinkage, the average person knows it as SANFORIZED. The process is a purely mechanical
treatment without any addition of chemicals.

The word SANFORIZED is derived from the first name of the inventor of the compressive
shrinkage process, Mr. Sanford L. Cluett.

The Sanforized Company, a division of Cluett Peabody & Co., Inc., New York, USA, is sole
owner of the registered trademarks Sanforized, Sanfor and Sanforizado.

The Sanforized label means dimensional stability for garments made up of Sanforized labeled
fabrics.

The purpose of the process is to shrink fabrics in such a way that textiles made up of these
fabrics do not shrink during washing.

The amount of potential wash shrinkage must be determined prior to shrinking. A full width
sample is wash-tested according to the test method. After the lengthwise and widthwise
shrinkage has been determined, the compressive shrinkage machine can be adjusted accordingly.

SUEDING MACHINES

From a light sueding effect up to the classical peach-skin effect

USE
For wovens and knitteds of natural and synthetic fibres and all kinds of blends.
The fabric is guided horizontally over 5 sueding rollers and delivered by a plaiter or rolled on big
batch. The range of effects is versatile, from a slight sueding effect up to the so-called peach-skin
effect.
Improvement of touch, i.e. fabric surface becomes softer and more voluminous,
so touch will be more textile-like, especially important in case of synthetic fibres.
Creation of a pile, depending on kind of fabric a flannel or peach-skin effect
Pleasant to the skin and comfortable wearing
 Additionally to the softer touch, also a wanted „softer“ appearance with regard to colours
and contours depending on kind of fabric.
Used character
„Cleaning“of fabric surface
For effect formation a variety of parameters, all reproducible, can be used: Fabric tension, emery
coverings, sense of rotation of sueding rollers, fabric speed, variable angle of contact of each
sueding roller and sueding roller rotating speed (option).
A heating plate and a steamer in the machine entry serve to improve effects and to eliminate
creases resulting from storage.

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

Durable press fabrics containing polyester fibres are known to show tendency to retain stains and
also attract soil from the wash liquor during washing. This is due to hydrophobic nature of these
fabrics. Various soil-release agents have been developed. These are described as durable film
forming polymers containing polymer groups which are capable of hydrogen bonding with
water. These finishes are applied by a pad-cure process along with the resin.

Treatment of synthetic fibers with hydrophilic polymers is in general called soil release finishing,
which makes the soil adhereing the hydrophobic fibers more accessible to water and easily
removable.
The fluorocarbons use for this purpose is dual action fluro polymers containing hydrophilic
hydrocarbons as well as perfluroalkyl groups. These finishes are generally applied to synthetic
fibers which are generally prone to soiling.
When a finished fabric is immersed in a liquid, hydrophilic hydrocarbon groups orient towards
polar aqueous environement and flurocarbon groups collapse below the surface promoting the
release of stains. Thus easy removal of stains takes place when the fabric is subjected to
laundering.
This finish can be applied by pad-dry-cure method along with durable press finish. Although
these finishes are the most expensive ones, they are the most widely used because of their
performance, comfort ability with durable press finish and not side effects.

ANTISTATIC FINISHING

During spinning, weaving and finishing, textile fibres, yarns and fabrics are subjected to friction.
Static electricity is
thus generated on the fibre. Polyester fibre has low conduction hence it accumulates static
electricity. Static electricity gives rise to a number of problems. For instance, the operator at the
delivery end of a stenter may get electric shocks because of static electricity. Garments made of
polyester fibres attract soil during normal wear and also have a tendency to cling to the body of
the wearer.
Non-durable antistatic agents are usually hygroscopic surface-active materials, closely allied in
composi6on to softeners and wetting agents. A permanent antistatic finish can be given by using
a combination of a cationic and an anionic compound.
Cationic quaternary ammonium compound - 3-4%
Acetic acid (30%) - 0.5-1 cc/l
Treat the fabric with the above composition for 10-20 min at 70'C (in a jigger). Then add
(anionic alkyl sulphate) - 1.6-2.2%
Continue treatment for another 10-20 min. Dry and cure if required.

WATER REPELLENT FINISH

Water repellency or durable shower proofing is an important finishing process. It is usually

applied to fabrics for outerwear where an excellent wash fastness is expected. Also, often
internal resin treatment is required to be given to the same fabric. Both finishes can be combined.
Recipe
Dimethyl Dihydroxy Ethylene Urea - 40-60 g/l
Ziroconium salt-containing wax emulsion - 60 g/l
Reactive Softener - 60 g/l
Magnesium chloride. - l0 g/l
Pad, dry and cure at 150oC for 5 min.
For further reading on water repellent finish: