Professional Documents
Culture Documents
june 2011
jindo island
a phenomenon of
land and sea
korean
dance
The evolution of traditional forms
ISSN: 2005-2162
www.korea.net
Contents
june 2011 VOL.7 NO.06
02
cover story
Korean traditional dance grows with the times.
02
12
pen & brush
Artist Park Seo-bo is a pioneer of modernism.
16
people
Professor Kym Hyo-gun ties logic with music.
20
great korean
Hyecho’s epic travels took him to the Silk Road.
22
seoul
Teheranno combines beauty and convenience.
24
24
travel
Peek into the splendors of Jindo Island’s nature.
28
festival
The Ganghwa Mugwort Festival boosts health.
29
flavor publisher Seo Kang-soo,
Enjoy cool naengmyeon noodles in summer. Korean Culture and Information Service
38
not necessarily represent the views of
38 the publisher. The publisher is not liable
for errors or omissions.
summit diplomacy
President Lee Myung-bak visits Europe. If you want to receive a free copy of
KOREA or wish to cancel a subscription,
42 please e-mail us. A downloadable PDF
global korea file of KOREA, and a map and glossary
More doctors volunteer for overseas posts. with common Korean words appearing
in our text are available by clicking on the
thumbnail of KOREA on the homepage
46
of www.korea.net.
my korea
A look into the charms of Gosa ceremonies. 발간등록번호 11-1110073-000016-06
cover story
© The National Dance Company of Korea (top); International Modern Dance Festival (left, opposite below)
extension. Although still performed on Sunflower have increasingly used Korean and devoted daughter who ventures to change, and I also want to take my social obligations, and in Mongryong’s
Western instruments, the music changes traditional movement vocabulary and to the underworld to bring back the roots, these Korean stories and Korean absence, Chunhyang’s great beauty is
to the tune of a Korean folk song sped stories as elements in modern dance water of life for her ailing father. In this consciousness, and create something noted by a corrupt local politician.
up to double time to accompany the works. Many regard the integration of performance, Ahn incorporates four new.” A similar motivation seems to These new Korean ballets have begun
now violent and explosive movements Western and Eastern elements as the traditionally-trained dancers, a pansori have even spread to the world of ballet. touring extensively overseas, with the
of the dancers. This is the opening of future of dance in Korea. singer to belt out the tale and musicians Although ballet, a classic of the Western current schedule presenting The Love
Soul, Sunflower, a full-length modern playing Korean traditional instruments dance canon, is unlikely to adopt the of Chunhyang, Shim Chung and Prince
dance concert borrowing elements INTEGRATION OF MODERNITY No to fuse Korean tradition with modern use of Korean movement or dancers Hodong in more than 40 cities including
from Korean traditional dance. It is discussion of modern dance in Korea dance. Combining these traditional trained in Korean traditional dance, the Naples, Italy; Singapore; Taipei, Taiwan;
also one of the major touring pieces in would be complete without mentioning elements with a more empowering re- Universal Ballet Company has added Moscow; and Johannesburg between
the repertoire of the National Dance the queen of modern Korean dance interpretation of the tale, Ahn fuses the ballets Shim Chung and The Love 2011 and 2013. In fact, Korean ballet has
Company of Korea. Ahn Eun-me. One of Korea’s most traditional and modern dance to create of Chunhyang to their repertoire, and grown up quickly. With several Korean
National dance companies tend to active and innovative choreographers, a moving, award-winning production, the Korea National Ballet Company has ballerinas and ballerinos winning major
feature the cultural heritage deemed Ahn has presented around the world which showcases the best of dance developed Prince Hodong. The story of international competitions in 2010,
authentic to their own locale, so it and frequently works with non-Korean in Korea. An MBC reporter closed Chunhyang is a true Korean classic (it ballet has become a hot trend, especially
is not surprising that the company, dancers. Ahn’s choreography includes her news spot on the Princess Bari has been made into an award-winning with the new emphasis on Korean
founded in 1962, originally focused on traditional elements in some of the most series saying, “Culture from Korean movie by Im Kwon-taek, a popular stories which renders the art form more
Korean traditional dance. However, creative ways since she first incorporated antiquity has been given new life in this Korean TV drama and a modern dance approachable to the Korean public.
© Korea National Ballet Company (left); Universal Ballet Company (bottom); The National Dance Company of Korea (opposite)
modern dance showcases. Each of the traditional arts, particularly danced, sang and played musical and hands - the hands are often relaxed in Korean classic fan dance. sword to scare away unseen forces. Yi
year the festival includes not only during the Park Chung-hee, Chun instruments as part of the daily life in and move together with the wrist and However, many other dances are Yun-seok, National Living Treasure
a selection of established and Doo-hwan and Roh Tae- cooperative agricultural communities, arm. Most of the typical gestures trace credited with deeper ties to Korean for Goseong Ogwangdae, explains,
emerging Korean modern dance woo administrations - is lightening group work, building interesting curving patterns in the air history; amongst the most fascinating “Traditionally this motion was to
stars, but also several overseas now embracing the fusion community and enlivening important and the shoulders are loose, relaxed and of Korea’s staged performing arts are banish ghosts or malevolent spirits. In
dance companies. Since of Korean dance and annual festivals and village rites. In the even slightly hunched, particularly in the mask dance dramas. Combining the modern world where many regard
MODAFE began in 1982, contemporary dance from modern era, people no longer believe folk dance. The basis of movement is elaborate masks, music, dance motions belief in ghosts as a superstition we can
performers from countries around the world. in village tutelary guardians and they a duck-footed stance and dancers step and stories that reflect a snapshot of think of this motion as casting off stress,
around the world including use tractors to harvest their barley, heel to toe. But in the fastest folk dances Joseon Dynasty (1392-1910) society, the heartbreak or failure and banishing it
Israel, the Netherlands, reducing or even erasing the relevance the legs stay close to each other with the preserved mask dance dramas remain from our lives.”
Belgium, Australia, (From left to right) The lead of the traditional folk arts. Many of the feet close to the floor, although they lift crowd-pleasing favorites. One of the Dance in Korea, whether the
the United States and dancers in the Korea National arts that remain strong in Korea are to knee height in the most physically most captivating is Goseong Ogwangdae, movements are modern Korean or the
Ballet Company’s modernized
France have presented piece Prince Hodong embrace in a part of the lineage of the professional demanding folk dances. from the small town of Goseong on story alone harkens back to an idyllic
singular movement; Ballerinas
their choreography in dance en pointe for the
entertainers called gisaeng, because only Dance performed by gisaeng the south coast near Busan, so focused past, is vibrant and well established
sold-out halls. After Universal Ballet Company’s the arts of the gisaeng were created for entertainers was on occasion suggestive, on dance that little to no dialogue is with myriad institutions for training,
retelling of the classic Shim
performances, MODAFE’s Chung folk tale; Company an audience, allowing them to translate but suggestive motions in Korean dance included. promotion and production. As the
members perform scenes
format frequently allows for dialogue in hanbok, Korean
well to the proscenium stage. do not isolate or feature the hip, backside The dances within the traditional barriers between different forms grow
between the choreographer and the traditional dress, for the In Korean traditional dance, the or chest. All of these traits can be seen in drama are so widely loved that in the more permeable, we can expect to see
National Dance
audience, an opportunity for insights Company of Korea’s performers are generally clad in the National Dance Company of Korea’s modern era this deotbaegichum is ever more creative works arising on the
that eager young dance students Dance Chunhyang. voluminous skirts of the hanbok, or major touring work, Korean Fantasy, a staged by unmasked dancers alongside Korean stage.
relish.
Given the wide popular
support and quick explosion of the
Korean b-boy sensation in recent years,
tourism advertisements here are helping
spur the genre of the modern iteration
of 1980s break dancers as Korea is
currently home to half of the top
© (From left to right) Yonhap News Agency; Hanwha Eagles; Lotte Giants (2)
competitive b-boy crews. Korean crews
are highly regarded overseas and have
become a fixture on the international
circuit, winning acclaim and awards at
events such as Battle of the Year, Red
Bull BC One and R-16 Korea. R-16 was
started in Korea only a few years ago,
but it has already become one of the
biggest hip-hop and b-boying festivals
in the world.
the performer’s student. Kim was also undergraduate practices, while carrying
bandaged wrist and part of a black- Compared to such programs, Korean happened to attend a performance by One of those friends was female lead on practice to the extent that no one his first performance of the part. His
ink tattoo peeking out from above his dance has been relatively neglected, noted traditional dancer Kim Choong- Kim Joo-won, the prima ballerina of changed out of their dance clothes; a joy in his own development shows
waistband. so now Lee takes every opportunity han. Lee describes the concert as the the Korea National Ballet Company shockingly radical but highly appealing the passion that has made him an
Adjourning to a studio for an indoor to publicize its traditions and the moment he was hit with the beauty of and Lee’s girlfriend of the past several approach. indispensible member of his company.
shot, he can’t restrain himself from new creative works which draw from Korean traditional dance. Just watching years. The two dancers are both so busy Lee entered K-Arts for his Masters After the interview winds down, Lee
tearing into a fast-paced beat on a set of traditional movements. A desire to was enough to convince young Lee that with their rehearsals and performances degree, where he excitedly rushed from heads back inside, the empty practice
drums, his hands flying through a series build a more favorable environment for he had to move to Seoul and become all around the world, Lee explains, class to class auditing a wide variety of room’s siren call echoing in his ears.
in May called Princess Kongji. This funded company specifically to explore the association has engaged in while
work, like many of their other pieces, the field of contemporary dance. The pursuing these goals include running
capitalizes on well-known Korean Korea National Contemporary Dance the Seoul International Choreography
folktales that have been made into Company is based out of the Seoul Festival since 1992, hosting the Seoul
Korean dramas (in this case, Lie to Me). Arts Center and for the moment is International Youth Dance Festival since
The company is housed at the large comprised of a 10-person staff. Unlike 1997, publishing the dance magazine
National Theater of Korea complex, a other nationally supported performing Images of Dance since 1989 and giving
warren of practice rooms and theaters arts groups, the Korea National out awards to recognize the promotion
of various sizes, along with the National Contemporary Dance Company of Korean modern dance since 1990.
Orchestra of Korea, the National Drama secures dancers for each individual
Company of Korea and the National performance through auditions, instead domestic and abroad Traditional
Changgeuk Company of Korea. The of keeping a permanent company. The dance in Korea is protected under
company employs more than 50 dancers, inaugural director, Hong Sung-yop, was the auspices of the Cultural Heritage
most of whom have a solid rooting in a ballerino before his 20-year history as Administration, a subsidiary of
Korean traditional dance. A typical day a choreographer, and will remain in the the Ministry of Culture, Sports
at the theater complex runs from 10am position for at least the first three years and Tourism. The seven protected
to 5pm, with rehearsal supervised by of the company. dances are Salpurichum (shamanic
senior company members, and classes The Modern Dance Promotion of ritual exorcism dance), seungmu,
under the artistic director. At present the Korea is the powerhouse at the center taepyeongmu, Cheoyongmu (dance of
company has three major works: Korean of the Korean modern dance world. the hero Cheoyong), Jinju geommu (Jinju
Fantasy, Dance Chunhyang and Soul, Their major goals include providing sword dance), seungjeonmu (victory
Sunflower. In 2011, they will present support for modern dance in Korea, dance) and hagyeonhwadae hapseolmu
more than 40 full-length dance concerts promoting the academic study of (hakchum, that is, crane dance).
in Korea and make seven full-length and research on dance, nurturing The online Keep Korean Rockin’
international appearances. Whether choreographers, creating opportunities (www.koreanroc.com) is the go-to site
has increasingly become the preferred former director of the National Dance cornucopia of companies The Association, Inc in New York and the
destination: the School of Dance at the Company of Korea, and Jung Seung- National Dance Company of Korea, Halla Huhm Foundation covers those
Korea National University of Arts. hee, a master of seungmu (monk’s founded in 1962, premiered a new work located in Hawaii.
Master Pioneer of
Contemporary
Park Seo-bo is one of Korea’s most
famous modernist painters. His work
has been featured in countless art fairs
Art
and galleries, and was on the cover of
He’s been called a leader of contemporary Korean art, a master
the popular textbook Art
of monochrome painting and the pioneer of Korean Avant-
Fundamentals: Theory and Practice, garde. Park Seo-bo has led an illustrious career over the
found in art schools around the world. last half century, and it’s unlikely that he will put down his
Though now 80 years old, Park hasn’t paintbrush any time soon.
slowed down and spends an average “Ever since my 20s, I’ve spent more than 14 hours a day
of 14 hours a day on his artwork, often on average on painting,” Park says. “I never let myself get
wearing a black sweater permanently distracted and have walked on that single path. Sure, there
stained with watercolors. have been hard times, but I’ve never been disappointed
by Choi Hye-jung | photographs by Kim Nam-heon or frustrated with myself. Whenever I was faced with [a
problem], I drove myself even harder and overcame adversity.
And I would always ask myself, ‘Have I been right?’ Without
looking at yourself in the mirror, there’s no progress. When
you get tough on yourself and try to think, act and express
your thoughts differently than others, only then do you
produce good pieces of work.”
Saying he couldn’t ask for more because his job has been a
labor of love and received critical acclaim to boot, Park looked
content when KOREA visited him in his studio.
“From late last year to early this year, I held three exhibitions
at Kukje Gallery in Seoul, Johyun Gallery in Busan and the
Busan Museum of Art, almost simultaneously. More than 100
pieces were put on display, but the storage unit didn’t seem
empty. That felt great,” Park says with a laugh.
“I don’t usually put up my pieces for sale,” Park continues.
“Money is a vice for artists. If you’re tempted by money, then
you’re bound to get lazy. I have no other interest than painting.
Unless it’s for my exhibitions, I don’t even travel. But in my
heart, I am really happy. Looking at my storage unit full of my
third son.” again, as Park applied repeated brush strokes to the hanji- Arbor, plans to publish a book on monochromism in Korea no great master of the past, but a living legend whose body of
Park’s father, who was a lawyer, adored the young Seo-bo. covered canvas, producing vertical patterns. Park said that one featuring Park through the University of California Press. work keeps expanding.
un
o-g
Hy
ym
K
Kym Hyo-gun performs in a concert at Ewha Womans University.
Songs to Comfort
Professor and songwriter Kym Hyo-gun manages to find the sweetest balance
between business and music. Twenty years after his debut as an unexpected
maestro in a contest, this multifaceted individual shares the secrets of his joy, craft
and philosophy. by Lee Se-mi | photographs by Kim Nam-heon
In 1981, a song called Snow won the top prize at the MBC which attempts to explain knowledge as three-dimensional
University Music Festival. With its beautiful lyrics and cubes, Kym was also the first person to introduce the concept
catchy melody, the song quickly became a contemporary of “knowledge management” to Korea. A well-known scholar
favorite. Interestingly enough, the man responsible for whose theories have been adopted in many of Korea’s largest
writing the piece, Kym Hyo-gun, wasn’t a music major. In companies, Kym is also a first-rate composer, and his unique
fact, to the public’s great surprise, he was studying business background attracts as much attention today as it did before.
© Kym Hyo-gun
www.korea.net | 17
major to participate in the festival where he would win the National University. Although he enrolled in the economics they were, the public found this type a number of excellent traditional
grand prize by a landslide. Afterward, the panel of judges was department, he never gave up his creative passion, attending of music too inaccessible.” numbers which can appeal to
quoted as saying, “How could a student majoring in economics courses in the music department to learn more about Kym tried to overcome this audiences anywhere in the world,
write a song like this, with poetic lyrics, real harmony and a composition. challenge by writing familiar, even though the genre has a history
melody that works perfectly?” However, after winning the top prize at the MBC University Korean traditional songs using going back less than a century.
Some write songs by first coming up with the lyrics, while Music Festival, he decided to leave behind the media attention complex musical elements, but his The ‘fine arts’ factor alone that is
others start with the melody. With Snow, Kym worked on both and study in the United States, choosing again to pursue endeavors were not well received. required for classical music has not
the lyrical and the harmonious elements at the same time, and business administration instead of music. “When I went Many composers began to feel been able to appeal to the public for
reveals the inspiration for his debut piece in the very first line: to study overseas after finishing school, I distanced myself pushed to create music that listeners the past 25 years. No kind of music
On a little snow-covered path, I wish I could leave a trace of my from music. For 15 years, until I returned to Korea in 1992, would like, oppressing their own that doesn’t have a certain popularity
small footprints forever. Kym says, “I first decided to try writing I concentrated on my studies. It wasn’t that I didn’t want artistic expressions. Kym just wanted Kym Hyo-gun speaks about his side career as a musician in to it can last. That’s why I created
a presentation at Ewha Womans University, where he is a
songs in January 1981. I went to a nearby stationary store to to pursue music; I just knew I wouldn’t be able to stop if I to create an original sound that professor of business administration (opposite). Kym Korean art/pop, which I believe has
composes his own original pieces (above).
buy some sheet music paper and then got working when I ever started down the music path. It was only when I felt incorporated elements that everyone both artistic elements to it as well as
returned home. It was snowing heavily outside and I wanted my research was on track that I finally started playing music from the ages of 20 to 40 would like, popular appeal.”
to capture that feeling.” again,” Kym explains. in a way that melded different genres together. Kym believes music should be “pleasant to sing and listen
Kym’s love of music was initially sparked during his first A Thousand Winds (2010) was the outcome of his efforts. to,” the word “pleasant” reflecting the feeling that one gets
year in middle school. The only student at an all-boys school Return to the scene When he returned to Korea, two more The album, categorized as a new type of “Korean art/pop,” when a song resonates with one’s own emotions. As a result, a
who could play the piano, he became the pianist for his of Kym’s songs would make it on air: Autumn Song and I Miss features eight classical songs, including a rendition of Snow. pleasant song should be sympathetic to, at least partly, human
school’s chorus. As someone who felt an instant affinity with You. His real comeback wouldn’t happen until 2007 though, Profound messages are delivered through simple yet elegant sentiments such as joy, sorrow, love and longing. A keyword
classical music after listening to Chopin for the first time, Kym when he fortuitously met some of Korea’s leading composers melodies and sung by Yang Jun-mo, who is more familiar to that resonates throughout the album is “love,” be it platonic
practiced the piano by himself and used to listen to cassette at Our Poetry, Our Songs, a group of creative minds. the public than most classical singers, which enabled Kym to love, romantic love or a mother’s love for her child. For Kym,
tapes and read scores on his way home. His interests ranged Kym began sharing new pieces with the group, which reach a wider audience. love is about a search for eternity: “Love, nature, God … that
from choral music to orchestra. held an annual concert to feature virgin works. To his “My goal is to write songs that older people listen to longing for something absolute and everlasting hasn’t changed
Despite his talent, his family’s lack of money and his disappointment, the music scene was not the same as it once nostalgically, but younger music fans want to hear time and at all in the last 30 years. That’s my musical inspiration.”
parents’ opposition stopped Kym from choosing a career in was. Dismayed, Kym realized that his peers were much more again after their first listen,” says Kym. “Korean traditional
music. But Kym was also an excellent student and eventually interested in pop than the traditional songs he sang. music is a genre that combines poetry and music. Once a Singing a message of truth Kym has been working on
gained entrance into Korea’s most prestigious college, Seoul “Pop music in the 1980s featured guitars and a kind of melody is added to a poem, it lasts a long, long time. There are a new project for the past two months, translating 10 of his
pop group sound,” explains songs into four different languages: English, French, Chinese
Kym. “As a result, Korean KyM HYO-gUN (B.1960) and Japanese. Kym plans to take the sage words of great
traditional songs sung by well- philosophers, thinkers and writers from throughout history
Musical Career
trained singers who had an - Snow wins the top prize at the and put them in his songs. His goal is to add a melody to the
orchestra backing them up inaugural MBC University Music message of our lives - from birth and death to growing up
could, relatively speaking, Festival, 1981 and feeling desire - so that the message reverberates to all
- Performed The Song of Fall and
easily attract the attention I Miss You at KBS-FM’s New ages. For example, the lyrics from the title track, A Thousand
of music fans. But music Traditional Music Concert, 1994 Winds, were translated from a Native American poem that
witnessed a huge development - Performed Wedding Song and clearly highlights their beliefs.
Ferryboat at the 1st New Traditional
across all genres, from pop Music Concert, 2007 “The song reflects their concept of love,” Kym explains.
to jazz, ballads and rock. - Performed Promise of a Thousand Years and Motherly Love at “They believe people don’t actually die even when they pass
Then, with the rising trend the 2nd Korean Traditional Music Festival, 2008 away. Instead, they remain with the living in the surrounding
- Released debut album A Thousand Winds, 2010
of atonalism and chance nature. I tried to suffuse this belief into my own song. Simply
music, contemporary classical Academic Career put, my future work will be creating songs from the Analects of
music became difficult for - BA (Economics), Seoul National University, 1983 Confucius, the Bible and Buddhist scriptures.”
- MBA, Seoul National University, 1986
the public to appreciate. - PhD (Business Administration), University of Pittsburgh, 1991 He described this project as a “marriage between a musical
Korean composers were also - Assistant Professor, University of Alberta, 1991-1992 composition and my academic interests.” For him, business
influenced by this trend and - Director of Knowledge Innovation & Systems Science, Ewha administration and music are just two genres with the same
© Kym Hyo-gun
of the world,
The Wang Ocheonchukguk Jeon demonstrates Hyecho’s lyrical wordings
in various portions of the work. Many of the expressions depict his longing
Hyecho
for his homeland and his exhaustion from traveling:
“On a moonlit night I looked toward the homeward path,
Floating clouds return by the wind.
I wish this letter to go with this opportunity,
The wind blows too fast; the clouds neither listen nor return.”
Around 1,300 years ago, a 15-year-old boy from Unified Silla The memoir is considered one of the world’s best travelogues along with
traveled alone to China. After studying under a Buddhist the Great Tang Records on the Western Regions by the Chinese Buddhist
monk, he then continued his journey to India, embarking on a monk Xuanzang and Il Milione by Marco Polo.
20,000km trip that led him to become the first Korean to travel
CROSSING INTERNATIONAL BORDERS Hyecho traveled to Guangzhou,
on the Silk Road. His name was Hyecho. by Seo Dong-chul China, in 719, while studying Esoteric Buddhism (a subset of Mahayana
Buddhism founded in India in the late 7th century) under the famous
Indian monk Vajrabodhi. Four years later, a 19-year-old Hyecho embarked
Last December, a landmark event set the Korean Buddhist community and on his pilgrimage, first traveling to India by boat. The young monk visited
locals abuzz. The Wang Ocheonchukguk Jeon (Memoir of the Pilgrimage each of the five kingdoms of India, including Lumbini, the birthplace of
to the Five Kingdoms of India), a traveler’s journal written by Hyecho, was Buddha, and Sarnath, where Buddha first taught the dharma. Afterwards,
returned to Korea for a short while after nearly 1,300 years away from its Hyecho traveled through Gandhara, Persia, Arabia, the Pamir Plateau and
native land - since the Buddhist monk first embarked on his trip. The arrived in Chang’an (currently Xi’an).
record, which chronicles the journey of the first Korean to travel to Asia After his return to China, Hyecho concentrated on studying Esoteric
and Europe via the Silk Road, came to a three-month exhibition at the Buddhism with Vajrabodhi. With the passing of his mentor, Hyecho later
National Museum of Korea before being returned to France. became a student of Amoghavajra, and focused on translating Esoteric
The memoir was first made known to the world in 1908. Paul Pelliot Buddhism texts into Chinese. Chang’an in the 8th century was a prosperous
discovered the records in Dunhuang, Gansu Province, China, and it has international city in China. Merchants and
been in the possession of the La Bibliothèque nationale de France to this students from around the world gathered
day. The travel journal, considered the first of its kind to come out of there, resulting in an amalgamation of
Korea, had never before left the museum. The exhibit in Seoul marked different cultures. Hyecho is also considered
the return of Hyecho after more than 1,000 years and also the work’s first to have greatly contributed to the
public showing since it was unearthed a century ago. Accompanying the development and organization of Esoteric
literary work were relics from the Silk Road, illuminating the extent of Buddhism in the cultural hub of the time.
cultural exchange during that era, and a replica of the Dunhuang Grottos. Hyecho passed away in China in 787,
The Buddhist monk wrote the epic piece during his four-year pilgrimage having never set foot on Korean soil
of the five kingdoms of India and surrounding countries. The Wang again. Why did he never return to his
Ocheonchukguk Jeon contains rare information about India and Central homeland, whilst longing to return? For
Tip!
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of dynamic foods and beguiling attractions such as a simple cosmetic procedure,” says Sameshima Yuki, a 29-year- it’s time to head to the most-buzzed street in Seoul.
luxury shopping. The area provides a different kind of old Japanese tourist who recently had plastic surgery in a clinic
service from the tourist attractions north of the river, near Gangnam Station. An all-in-one package allowed her to
by combining beautification with tourism for a chance enjoy both a practical and a leisurely visit. She adds, “It was
to feel like a celebrity. The fact that many well-known pretty good, as I could get counseling in Japanese before the
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the Korean won lost its momentum, masses of tourists marketing strategies to attract foreign
from nearby countries began to crowd to vacation- visitors. Lotte Hotel World in Jamsil, which
opened a medical center in December 2007,
Island of Mystique
In the past, Jindo was an island few could visit due to its location. Fortunately,
this preserved the archipelagos, and today the spot has become well-known for
its yearly, mysterious parting of the sea. by Chung Dong-muk | photographs by Choi Ji-young
Not many Koreans know exactly where very fond of the breed, believing its traits
Jindo Island is. The image that comes to match those of the people’s - in the
mind when most people think of Jindo mien of forerunning the international
is the eponymous dog, known for its IT industry from a small corner of Asia
loyalty and intelligence. The Jindo dog and orchestrating massive construction
is able to find its way back home even projects worldwide without fear or
when stranded hundreds of kilometers doubt. Similar to the Jindo dog, Koreans
away, and most learn of the legendary enjoy nature from time to time, but once
characteristics of the animal as young their sights are set, will concentrate on
children in the classroom. reaching their goal.
As I travel to my destination, I try to
remember all the distinctive traits of this Remembering the Hero Jindo Island
particular man’s best friend. The Jindo is located on the southwestern tip of the
dog never backs down from an enemy Korean Peninsula and is the third largest
and has the courage to stand against, island, behind Jejudo and Geojedo.
even when facing a tiger. Koreans are When Koreans refer to Ttangkkeut
The sea off the southwest corner of the Korean Peninsula parts once a year on Jindo Island.
Maeul, or “Land’s End Village,” they are the incoming fleet did not know. The with a view of both the bridge and Yi’s of the ocean captivates all those resting long, 40m-wide road that appears at a
referring to the Haenam region, which currents of Uldolmok, where the waters statue. He stands as if yelling commands their eyes on its beauty after climbing parting of the sea, a phenomenon that
is the southernmost tip of the country. of the Yellow Sea and the South Sea to his fleet 400 years ago. the mountain. Amongst the deep blue occurs from an exceptionally low tide.
From Haenam, Jindo can be reached by meet, flow in the opposite direction are the small islands of the archipelago Another site that visitors should not
crossing the Jindo Bridge, which is the around noon, due to the changing tides. Sunsets and Sea Roads Visitors can that decorate the ocean with each having miss is Sebang Sunset, where visitors can
only easily accessible land connection. A The Japanese fleet rode the northwestern reach the base of the guardian mountain its own distinguishing figures. enjoy a first-rate view of the sinking sun
KTX (Korea Train eXpress) train stops currents towards the Korean fleet, of Jindo, Cheomchalsan, by taking “You’re late,” a lady from Okcheon, into the deep ocean.
at nearby Mokpo, allowing visitors to which valiantly resisted, holding their National Road No 18 to downtown informs me. “The sea parts in March As I cast my eyes west to the horizon.
access the island within four hours from ground until the currents flowed Jindo, Local Road No 9 and then Local and April.” The woman manages a snack I am once again reminded of Admiral
Seoul. backwards, determined not to waste this Road No 15 to the east of Jindo. The cart at the entrance to the sea road in Yi Sun-sin, feeling as he would have,
As they cross the bridge, visitors can opportunity. As a result, 31 Japanese beauty of the mountain captivates Hoedong-ri, Gogun-myeon. With our greeted by this spectacular sunset. The
expect to meet the hero and symbol of ships were sunk and the Japanese visitors, hiding the Ullim Sanbang hopes of walking the sea road shattered, brave admiral is known to have written
the Korean people, Admiral Yi Sun-sin general was decapitated; Yi’s insight on Houses and Ssanggyesa Temple within. we rest in the shade of the snack car, poems and drawn up battle plans in the
(1545-1598). Yi’s legacy can be found the surrounding geography and nature’s Though not a particularly tall mountain, enjoying a dish of sea squirts while face of death, and I brace myself as well
all across the southern coast, but many advantageous characteristics had led him being only 485m above sea level, its admiring the view. People from all over for life ahead, not to sacrifice today for
consider Jindo the best place to reflect to victory. The Battle of Myeongnyang is “skyline” curves flow elegantly like the the world gather to witness the 3km- tomorrow.
on his spirit. considered one of the greatest historical shoulders of a woman.
Yi was a commander of the Naval Naval battles in the world. At the foot of the mountain are the
The currents at Uldolmok are still Ullim Sanbang, Korean traditional travel information
A water lily-strewn pond
accentuates the view as strong as the days of the great houses with a garden where Joseon
inside Ullim Sanbang
Myeongnyang Battle. The currents Dynasty painter Huh Ryun (1808- Directions
houses (above). A time-
Taking the KTX to Mokpo Station is
worn bell is seen inside are the fastest in Korea, clocking in at 1893), renowned as a master of Namhwa convenient. The high-speed train departs twelve Seoul
Ssanggyesa Temple, which
dates back to the 9th 11.5knots-per-hour. Before the Jindo (Chinese painting of the Southern times a day from Yongsan Station on weekdays.
century (left). The Jindo
Bridge is the most
Bridge was built in 1984, most people School), resided in his later years. The Travel time is 3 hours 20 minutes.
From Mokpo Station, it is best to rent a car and
accessible route to the did not dare to cross the strait. The garden in front of the dwelling looks travel to Jindo. Travel time is 1 hour.
southern island (below).
Jindo Bridge was the country’s first spectacular paired with the pond, lotuses Mokpo KT Kumho Rent-a-Car
© Korea Tourism Organization (left bottom); Yonhap News Agency (opposite left and right); Nakjo Pension (opposite middle)
cable-stayed bridge and a second, floating on the water and grape myrtle Domestic Call: 061 274 8000
International Call: +82 2 797 8000 Mokpo
parallel bridge was added in 2005 to trees encircling the shore. The beauty of
jindo Island
accommodate the high traffic. Across, the scenery is enhanced when the trees Food
people can visit the Nokjin Observatory, blossom in summer. As an island, the best of Jindo cuisine is
Next to the gardens is Ssanggyesa, seafood. Chungho Bokjip (+82 61 544 6998), located downtown, is famous for its cod and
anglerfish soups that are light and not too spicy. For visitors in search of a dish other than
forces, and is known for having used where Buddhist monks roast tea leaves. seafood, Naju Gomtang (+82 61 542 7179) in the downtown area is a good option. The
unique tactics to fend off forces during The small leaves are roasted nine times gomtang (beef-bone soup) is boiled for a full day, keeping to the traditions of Naju, Jeollanam-
the two Japanese invasions of Korea a day in order to tease out the true taste. do Province, the home of gomtang.
Finding Cool
Respite in
Naengmyeon
Right at the turn of summer, when cool breezes give way to While the idea of iyeol-chiyeol, or fighting
the sun’s heat, there’s one particular thought that begins to
fire with fire, is one of the most time-tested
haunt all locals: a mouth-watering, refreshing bowl of ice-
cold naengmyeon, or chilled noodles. Though popular in
ways to beat the heat during summers in
Seoul, the secrets of the delectable dish originate in North
Korea, a popular alternative is simply to
A live performance opens the 2010 Ganghwa Mugwort Festival (above left). Hands-on, educational activities are available for the family (middle, right).
Korea. The two main varieties of naengmyeon arrived cool down with an icy bowl of springy
south of the DMZ after the Korean War (1950-1953), by noodles. So if you’re not ready to sweat it
out, slurp it up. by Ines Min
The Many
and stuffed into pillows and duvets in place of cotton. way of Pyeongyang and Hamheung, the second largest city
The Ganghwa Agricultural Technology Service Center after the northern capital.
hosts the festival at the start of the main harvesting season, at Pyeongyang-style mul-naengmyeon is characterized
Uses of
the 52,900sqm Armiae World - a complex centered around by its broth, which often includes chunks of crushed ice
mugwort that combines an educational space with a processing floating neatly beside the noodles. The broth, made from
Mugwort
plant. This will be Armiae World’s third mugwort festival since a beef or pheasant stock and dongchimi (radish water
it opened in 2009, and a full line-up of events will be offered kimchi), has a light and refreshing taste. The buckwheat
to visitors. At the Agricultural Exhibition Hall, visitors can noodles are topped with julienned cucumbers, Korean
explore what the life of a farmer was like in old times, and the pear, thinly sliced beef and half of a hard-boiled egg.
Mugwort Well-being Hall’s spa room is open for relaxation. Contrasting flavors of lightly sweet and subtle sour are
If you’re more familiar with mugwort as an Performances and events will be held during the opening integrated with vinegar and mustard for a layered flavor.
unwanted weed peering from roadside on June 4, so entertainment will be available for the whole Noodles representative of Hamheung, on the peninsula’s
cracks, take the opportunity to become family. Those who are interested northeast coast, are bibim-naengmyeon, a broth-less
in the forms mugwort takes variation known for its zesty gochujang, or red pepper
reacquainted with the edible green at the
© Ganghwa Mugwort Festival (opposite top); Topic Images (opposite below); Han Sang-mooh (right)
when placed on the dinner paste, sauce. The noodles are often made of a sweet potato
Ganghwa Mugwort Festival. by Ines Min table should peruse the foods starch, as opposed to buckwheat, which lend it a darker
exhibition. Popular mugwort color and al dente chew. Similar to its sister dish, cucumber,
dishes include colorful variations pear and egg are added, though flavored with vinegar and
Mugwort might not be synonymous with “mmm” in the West, of tteok (rice cakes) and ssukguk sugar, to balance out the
but the plant, called ssuk in Korean, carries within its verdant (mugwort soup), but it can also be used roaring spiciness of the
Hot Spots
leaves a bounty of healthy vitamins. The annual Ganghwa in banchan (side dishes) and even juices. gochujang.
Mugwort Festival (June 4 to 6) helps introduce those known Mugwort beef and naengmyeon (chilled One well-known trait Woo Lae Oak A family-run
properties to the rest of the world. Ganghwado Island, located restaurant that has branched all the
noodles) will also be available to those of naengmyeon is the
way to the US and one of the oldest
northwest of Seoul, is famous for its medicinal mugwort, hungry festivalgoers. long strands of noodles. naengmyeon establishments.
which grows in the Yellow Sea’s salty winds. Symbolic of longevity, it 118 Jugyo-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul
Mugwort is most popularly known as a health food across Phone: +82 2 2265 0151
is traditional to leave the
How to get there Ohjangdong Hamheung
Korea, but Ganghwado’s variety carries a strong aroma and noodles at their original Naengmyeon A popular stop for
bitter taste that makes it well adapted for medicinal uses (in Ganghwado Island is located northwest of length, although most spicy bibim-naengmyeon lovers and
2010 alone, Ganghwa-gun produced 397 tons). It can be drunk well-known for its delectable
Seoul and can be reached by bus (under two people today will cut
hours) from anywhere in the capital. For seafood variety.
in the form of tea to prevent ulcers, added to baths for a body- detailed information on directions, visit
the noodles for easier 90-10 Ojang-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul
soothing experience and to increase circulation, or even dried http://armiae.com/eng/about/map.asp. consumption. Phone: +82 2 2267 9500 A refreshing bowl of bibim-naengmyeon is served.
The Show
When films like The Happy Life (2007) and Bravo,
My Life (2005) were released, most people found the
storylines of determined, amateur musicians to be
far-fetched. But contrary to what the skeptics might
think, there are those who do put their ambitious
dreams to action. by Lim Ji-young | photographs by Kim Hong-jin
© Gapgeunse Band (top); 7080 Office Workers’ Band (right); Feel Band (opposite)
concert at the
from expert instructors for every musical instrument. After National Theater of
and our music is the
The Nostalgic Band Boom One of the inaugural office six months of training, they were offered an opportunity to Korea (opposite). small window that
workers’ bands in Korea is the Gapgeunse Band, which formed perform at Mapo Art Center,” a center spokesperson says. leads outside,” says
in 1998. Gapguense, which means “Grade A Income Tax,” It is estimated that the current number of workers’ bands in Goo Ja-jung, leader of
became the talk of offices across town for both its clever name Korea is anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000. Along with this rapid Gapgeunse Band.
and fresh sound. growth, related performance agencies and competitions were Office workers’
Cho Young-Min, a former vocalist in a university group and created, and websites connecting sponsors (both private and bands do not work
member of Jeongdeun Band, is now one of the managers of the governmental) and studios exploded in the Sinchon, Hongik solely on musical
online 7080 Office Workers’ Band Cafe. Ten complete bands, University, Konkuk University and Bangbae-dong areas. instruments, but their
including the official 7080 Office Workers’ Band, Jeongdeun Most workers’ bands collect dues from members in order hearts. They awaken
Band, Triple A and Sunday Seoul, are members of the Internet to rent a practice room, while the 7080 cafe has its own space their own basic
site that seeks to introduce and collaborate with peers. in Yongsan. But the group has had difficulties of its own, says instincts with their
Established in 2004, the Internet group now has a membership Cho, who speaks candidly of the financial difficulties he faced passionate, thrilling
of roughly 3,400. in the beginning. “We bought a monthly rental practice room notes.
Earn Recognition
visited the War Memorial of Korea, of Seoul. following a ceremony at the DMZ,
becoming the first in the Australian where British Ambassador to North
government to commemorate the fallen PATRIOTIC HONORS In the United Korea Peter Hughes received the
heroes of Gapyeong in Korea. Joined by States, President Barack Obama showed remains. Hinton’s fate, whose plane had
The 60th anniversary of the Korean War last year reminded many of the long, difficult appreciation for vets of the Korean War been shot down in January 1952, was
22 Australian veterans, some of whom
struggles it took to reach the present day. International allies came to the aid of Korea, and were making their first return to Korea by posthumously awarding the Medal lost to his family for 60 years.
while it may be called the “Forgotten War,” veterans were once more remembered across the in six decades, Gillard recognized all the of Honor to two soldiers: Anthony T The remains of others have also
world with honor this year. by Ines Min lives that had been lost. Kaho’ohanohano of Maui, Hawaii, and been returned, such as those of Primo
© Yonhap News Agency (left, far left, opposite); The Dong-a Ilbo (top)
“No one who fought, who suffered, Henry Svehla of Newark, NJ, earned the Carnabuci, which were flown to
who died during those 1,000 bloody US’ highest honor. Kaho’ohanohano was Connecticut last month. Last seen
days, will ever be forgotten,” Gillard said a mere 19 years old, while Svehla was during battle, Carnabuci and 600 other
at the event. no more than 21. Both of them died in US soldiers have been listed MIA since
Other veterans paid tribute to the combat, refusing to retreat in front of 1950. His older brother Dominic held
anniversary in a visit to Seoul National their foes. out for news, and he finally received it
Cemetery in late April, with more than “In the hearts of their families, earlier this year. Though the war cannot
200 vets from Canada, the UK, New they remain forever young. Today, we be undone, Carnabuci is still glad to
Zealand and Australia. The Imjin Battle, honor them with the highest military have his sibling home. “When they put
which took place at the same time as decoration that our nation can bestow: him in ground, I’ll feel better, relaxed,”
Gapyeong, was won with the strength the Medal of Honor,” Obama said in the he told a local paper. “I’ll know where he
of the British 29th Infantry Brigade. presentation ceremony. is now.”
Over 300 young French teenagers suddenly swarmed in front don’t sing very well and don’t really care about their looks,”
of the iconic glass pyramid of the Louvre in Paris around 3pm says Maxime Paquet, president of Korean Connection.
on May 1. Faces pink with excitement, they started to sing A remote region in India called Manipur is another area
along to their favorite K-pop songs, frantically waving photos where Hallyu is significant. In October last year, BBC’s news
of boy bands like Super Junior and SHINee. Some expertly program Close-Up featured a series on Indians who are
rubbed their hands as if doing a prayer, others danced to Super influenced by Korea’s pop culture. According to the footage,
Junior’s Sorry, Sorry. many street vendors sell DVDs of Korean films, TV dramas
What the ardent K-pop fans wanted was a second show and CDs of K-pop stars. Photos of Korean celebrities cover the
of SM Town Live in Paris. They led the protest for an hour, walls of hair salons, which recommend “Korean-style” cuts.
arguing that otherwise they would have no choice but to Manipur became completely hooked on Korea’s pop culture
buy tickets resold through the Internet for a whopping 500 soon after Arirang TV, Korea’s 24-hour English-language
euros. When ticket sales for SM Town Live in Paris, SM network, and KBS World began airing there. They became
Entertainment’s first-ever concert at Le Zénith de Paris on June entertainment alternatives after Bollywood films were banned
10 opened on April 26, the show completely sold out within by secessionist groups.
Hallyu Steps it Up
scene for Hello
Stranger at the
Cheonggyecheon
Stream; Thai actors
pose in Myeong-
dong; cameras set
up in Seoul for a TV
drama.
15 minutes. SM Entertainment is one of South Korea’s biggest A Cultural Springboard Seoul is rising as a hot shooting
entertainment agencies and manages the popular K-pop location among Southeast Asian filmmakers ever since Hello
groups TVXQ, Super Junior, SHINee and Girls’ Generation. Stranger, a Thai rom-com flick filmed in Seoul, became a
Luckily, the K-pop fans’ dreams came true. SM Entertainment big hit in its home country. It topped the Thai box office for
© Seoul Metropolitan City (right above); Yonhap News Agency (opposite bottom); SM Entertainment (opposite top)
announced in late May that a second concert will be held on several months and won many local awards, including the best
June 11, after realizing the force of the K-pop fans in France. actress award at the Thai Annual Film Festival 2010, shooting
The tickets sold out again, this time in 10 minutes. female lead Nuengthida Sophon into the spotlight.
“We figured that setting the movie’s backdrop as Seoul was
A Wave Has its Reasons Though it is situated thousands the reason for the success and decided to shoot two more
of miles away, France is one of the countries most affected by movies there,” says an official from Pencil Pictures, the film’s
Hallyu, or the Korean wave. France’s 2TV aired a 30-minute producer. The production house had discovered the beauty
long program focusing on how K-pop, Korean dramas and of Korea as a backdrop in 2010, when it shot a TV drama,
films are sweeping the nation. For two weeks in April, 54 The Calling of Nami Island, in Seoul. In April, Pencil Pictures
French girls in their late teens and early 20s visited Korea to brought two Malaysian works - TV drama No Marked
meet their beloved K-pop groups. Organized by the Korea Grave and the film I Have … You? - to film in Seoul at
Tourism Organization and Korean Connection, a prominent Cheonggyecheon Stream, Mount Namsan, Dongdaemun and
Hallyu, or the Korean wave, is not just a passing craze in nearby Asian countries. Hallyu fan club in France, the trip allowed the girls to visit the Myeong-dong area.
Unexpected parts of the world like Paris and Manipur, a rural area in India, are hooked on the studio of a popular music show and attend a SHINee fan The Seoul Metropolitan Government has been giving them
Korean pop culture for their own reasons. In Southeast Asian countries where the Korean meeting. a boost, running a program to support 25% of the production
culture is already deeply immersed, the Korean wave is taking on the role of a springboard “K-pop singers are complete artists and entertainers. They costs (capped at 100 million won) spent in Seoul for movies or
to create new cultural content. by Park Min-young can sing, they can dance and they look very trendy ... This is dramas that feature the city. It also licenses permits to shoot
the main difference with French singers who mainly prefer films in public areas, restricts traffic and even provides safety
to focus on the lyrics and almost never dance. Many of them helicopters in case of fire.
to Europe
the official visit to Germany, a state visit to
Denmark took place from May 11 to 12 and
an official visit to France took place from
May 12 to 14.
Lee’s visit to Europe came in an
Europe has always been a significant economic, trade and cultural partner for Korea. important time, shortly after South Korea’s
During a seven-day trip to Germany, Denmark and France in May, President Lee Myung- National Assembly approved a free trade
bak met with state leaders as well as top policymakers, businessmen and scholars of the agreement with the European Union. The
three European nations to take Korea’s ties to the next level. by Ser Myo-ja trade pact, which the European Parliament the international community, I am willing
already approved in February, takes effect to invite North Korean [National Defense
on July 1, and will lift most tariff and trade Commission] Chairman Kim Jong-il to Seoul
barriers between the two sides in the next for the Second Nuclear Security Summit,
five years. where about 50 leaders from around the
During his trip, Lee paid special attention world will participate,” Lee said in a joint
to improving Korea’s economic and trade news conference with Merkel. “It will be
ties with Europe. “The outcome will be an opportunity for the North to receive a
a drastic enhancement of cooperative guarantee for a brighter future.”
relations between Korea and its important About 50 global leaders, including US
The procession of Danish Queen Margrethe II
trading partners in Europe,” said the President Barack Obama, will attend the
leads President Lee Myung-bak to Fredensborg
Korean presidential office, Cheong Wa Dae Palace in Copenhagen on May 11 (top). Lee Nuclear Security Summit in Seoul next
(the Blue House). The European tour also commemorates war veterans from the Korean spring to discuss efforts to make the world
War during his visit to Paris on May 13 (above).
served as a milestone toward building a more safe. The inaugural summit was
Lee walks with Berlin’s mayor Klaus Wowereit in
special relationship with Europe, especially front of Brandenburg Gate on May 9 (opposite). hosted by Obama in Washington in April
in the field of green growth cooperation. 2010.
President Lee’s signature campaign of low- The two Koreas have been separated
carbon green growth has been welcomed North, adding that he believes the historic since the Korean War (1950-1953) ended in
by European nations, especially Germany event will take place in the future “not far a truce. Tensions on the Korean Peninsula
and Denmark. away.” have grown steadily due to North Korea’s
Other issues, such as efforts to reunify Calling Pyeongyang’s nuclear arms nuclear and missile programs. While six-
the two Koreas and cooperation with programs an obstacle to unification, he party talks attended by the two Koreas,
France for the upcoming Group of 20 urged the North to give up the weapons China, Japan, Russia and the United States
Summit, were also discussed. Korea is programs for peace and prosperity. were stalled for years, the North carried
the outgoing chair of the G20 Summit, “The existence of nuclear weapons on out two deadly attacks on the South in
and France is the incoming host of the the Korean Peninsula will only delay March and November last year.
the two nations established diplomatic Calling Denmark a “first mover” and green growth forum in October and Gurría, the secretary-general of the OECD,
relations in 1959. Lee and Danish Prime South Korea a “fast mover” in green Korea will host the second event in June to discuss bilateral and global economic
Minister Lars Rasmussen held a summit on technologies, Lee said the alliance made next year. issues.
May 12 and announced an unprecedented the two countries “green growth smart “Denmark is a frontrunner of Wrapping up the three-nation trip, Lee
“Green Growth Alliance” to declare their movers” to lead the world economy to a environmentally-friendly economic returned to Korea on May 15.
Love without
Borders Korea is proud to be a country that sends
medical volunteers overseas, but in the past
decade there has been a particularly sharp
Doctors collaborate with volunteer organizations to help rise in the number of its nationals being
bring medicine and health care to people in underprivileged dispatched to every corner of the world.
situations. A recent rise in medical volunteers from Korea Organizations running medical volunteer
programs for the underprivileged in
brings the focus to these individuals. by Lee Se-mi
poorer nations are generally divided into
government agencies, NGOs and religious
institutions. These people help organize
groups of medical and administrative
personnel to engage in medical volunteer
work. A project with one of these groups
can last anywhere from one or two weeks
to a couple of months, in order to help
those who need it most battle poverty and
illness.
The Korean government has been
sending medical personnel overseas since
it first sent trained individuals to remote
parts of Africa in 1968. For the next 40
years, up until 2008, it sent a total of 115
doctors to help the sick in Africa, Asia, the
CIS, Central and South America and the
South Pacific. These men and women have
devoted themselves to the prevention and
treatment of illnesses despite the immense
medical challenges they faced. On top of
that, more than 60 groups made up of
© Good News Medical Volunteers (opposite, right above); World Vision Korea (right bottom)
NGOs, missionaries, university students and
medical institution employees have gone
overseas as medical volunteers more than
once between 2007 and 2009, and that
number is growing every year.
Care Service carried out the camp when disaster zones. in 2009 and started volunteering at once, 57.1
51.8
they found out there were Korean War vets Its first overseas volunteers were as governments in Ghana, Kenya and 46.4 42.9
28.6
in the area in 2008. Most of the veterans dispatched to Yanbian, China, in 2002. Tanzania helped with visa waiver programs 10.7
7.1
were over 80 years old and suffering from The group’s mission was later expanded and found them places to work. The
cataracts. After establishing a branch in to help cover those affected by disaster, volunteers treated 1,000 patients a day Free Health care Establishing Inviting Training local Enhancing Vaccinations Other (e.g.,
treatment education facilities patients for personnel living donating
Ethiopia, Vision Care Service now has including earthquake victims in Sri Lanka, on average and delivered courses on basic surgery conditions equipment)
plans to open camps in 13 African nations, Pakistan, Indonesia and Sichuan, China. health care.
including Swaziland, Zimbabwe, Botswana, When a powerful cyclone hit Myanmar in When the Good News Medical medical volunteer dispatch locations
Unit: percent, multiple answers Actual Planned for 2010
Mozambique, Zambia, Malawi, Burundi, 2008, 13 medical personnel went to help Volunteers made their third trip to Africa 71.4
62.5
Tanzania, Kenya and Uganda, over the next and contributed in saving many lives. In for a month in July 2010, a total of 256 46.4
44.6
four years. addition, they established a Green Doctors medical workers and other volunteers 35.7 33.9
© Vision Care Service
26.8 25.0
23.2
Founded in 2004, Green Doctors is a hospital in Dala, a village that had been visited Ghana, Togo, Benin, Kenya and 19.6
8.9
5.4 5.4 5.4
Korean NGO that was based on another completely destroyed by the cyclone, Malawi. Malawi’s Health Ministry allowed 3.6
volunteer group organized in 1997. Today, hiring a local physician, dentist, and two them to use a national hospital with 2,000 Southeast East Asia South Asia North CIS Central and Other None
Asia America South
they have more than 30,000 members nurses. Green Doctors paid for the cost of beds and issued temporary medical licenses America
Pigs have always been a constant feature in my life, since But in a certain season each year, a particularly odiferous
long before I came to live in Korea. In one form or another - and unmistakable fragrance from our neighbor’s pig farm
though not really inhabiting my daily thoughts - pigs have on top of the hill reminded me that pigs do most definitely
loitered on the fringes of my life. exist. Even today, coincidentally, before I’d even had the
I’ve never tried to ride a greased pig, but I do admit that, slightest notion I’d be writing an article about a pig ceremony,
growing up as a child on a farm on Prince Edward Island in I named my percussion group Seoul Rhythm Pig. Pigs are just
eastern Canada, I did indeed try to ride an everyday, run of everywhere, even if you don’t notice them.
the mill, ungreased pig. I’ve never seen the proverbial pigs As to whether or not pigs should be thought of in positive
fly, though I have on occasion enjoyed listening to Pigs on the or negative terms in daily life, I was a bit ambivalent. I just
Wing by Pink Floyd. I’ve enjoyed their culinary offerings and never gave much thought to them before Korea. Whether or
delighted in cute piglets squealing in the pen and scrambling not we of the Western world can decide on whether pigs are
for scraps my grandfather would dump into their pen. Ours cute and clever, or smelly and unfortunate animals, one thing
wasn’t primarily a pig farm, however, and we just had a few is for sure: in Korea, pigs are lucky. If you’ve lived here for any
that we would raise for our own meat. It was a small farm with amount of time, you’ve probably heard a Korean friend or
seldom more than 10 of any animal at any given time. coworker tell you how lucky you are if you have a “pig dream.”
And I, bent more on becoming the next Keith Moon or They are symbolic of riches and good fortune, and are also
John Bonham, didn’t really spend as much time feeding cows, said to ward off bad luck.
or shoveling that smelly gold that made crops grow, as my I wondered where this belief came from. Talking with my
father would have liked. I was constantly aware that we had wife, who is Korean, and her friends, they speculated that
pigs, cows and horses, yet I didn’t really give much thought to perhaps it was because pigs have many babies. So in terms of
them. At times you could almost forget there even were such reproduction, they are productive, which could be a metaphor
creatures as pigs, being more interested in soccer balls, playing for the productivity you hope your business has. At first, I
hockey in my grandmother’s kitchen or beating drums. was surprised that they didn’t know automatically why pigs
Dreaming
of pigs
Exploring Gosa Ceremonies
A Canadian expat goes to a traditional Gosa ceremony, a folk
ritual that comprises showing respect to a pig’s head. Practiced
to ward off bad luck and bring good fortune when a new
business is opened, a new house is built, to appease the spirits
and just because it’s tradition, the ceremony is one of the
unique aspects of life in Korea. And, whether or not you
believe in it, Gosa holds a certain charm.
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