Mountaineering

Crevasse rescue:transferring a partners weight onto an anchor

Installation of the anchor

mini 50 cm

A dead-man anchor is used The principle is to use an object that provides sufficient resistance to the tension exerted on it. In snow, you can bury an ice axe, a backpack, a ski. If there is ice, you will need an ice screw. Complete the anchor by attaching a long sling. In snow, it is important to place the sling in a groove in the anticipated direction of pull so that the buried object is not pulled out.

Pascal Tournaire

Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.

n a glacier, the classic accident is of course a fall into a crevasse. If progression is on a taut rope, the appropriate reflex of the surface climbers would be to arrest the fall with their counterweight. Once the fall is arrested, the first priority is to create an anchor to support the weight of the victim. With a party of two, the surface climber is alone. She must install an anchor and transfer the weight of the victim onto it by herself. To succeed, she must carry out the following sequence, all the while staying in counterbalance and having all her gear (progress capture pulley, carabiner, sling) easily accessible on the harness. Training is essential!

Mountaineering
Crevasse rescue:transferring a partners weight onto an anchor
Transferring the weight
Once the anchor point is in place, you can begin transferring the weight.
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Information is non-exhaustive. Refer to the other pages as well as to the user instructions and technical manuals. Technical training is essential.

MINI TRAXION

Installing the progress capture pulley First, install the progress capture pulley on the rope holding the victim. Be sure that the pictogram of the person on the black side plate is on the side of the victim.

Before closing the pulley for the transfer, remember to engage the toothed cam to allow jamming. Verify the jamming direction.

The transfer Connect the MINITRAXION to the anchor sling with a symmetrical locking carabiner (OK). Slide the progress capture pulley down the rope to put the sling under tension. Slowly and smoothly transfer the weight. The rescuer places partial tension on the anchor to check that it is solid. He can then transfer the entire load.

Once the load is on the anchor, the remainder of the rescue can be organized:ascending the rope, hauling Warning:to prevent further accidents, the rescuer(s) should always remain on back-up belay.

- MINI TRAXION - OK x 2 - TIBLOC - STANNEAU - OSCILLANTE CREVASSE RESCUE KIT LASER SONIC

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