distribution in the yam structure is being analyzed.

The photographs below show typical cross-sections of ring and openend yams, respectively. Further work on characterization of fiber distribution is in progress and will be reported subsequently. It is obvious from the photographs on the previous page that the two spinning systems impose differing fiber distributions in the cross-section. Measurements on the distributions will be made in the next reporting period when the experimental results will be fitted to a theoretical distribution as reported in l B.C. Goswami, R.D. Anandjiwala and M. Carmical, Engineering of Fiber PropertiesJor Spinning on Various Systems, J. Appl. Poly. Sci.: Applied Polymer Symposium 47, 464-485, pp 463-485 (1991). Yarn Performance During Weaving Summary: During this quarter the collection of breakage report on performance of ring-spun yarn has been completed. Also, gaiting and initial setting-up work for open-end yarn beam has been completed. Loom operation to collect actual performance report of open-end yam beam has been initiated. The analysis of breakage report for ring-spun yarn has just commenced. After completing this analysis work, attempt will be made to compare the actual weaving performance with laboratory evaluation on Sulzer-Ruti Webtester reported in the previous quarter. The breakage pattern and incidence of breaks on the loom during weaving of ring-spun yarn has demonstrated that it is important to understand the dynamic tension variation in the warp yam during weaving. A Tenstec tensiometer will be used to measure the dynamic tension in the warp yam. It is planned to interface this tension measuring device to a computer to continuously measure and plot the dynamic tension variation on the loom. 20 , I

Results The warp break report for the performance of ring-spun yams is collected for 192 hours of loom running. The approximate time of occurrence of a break is noted which is then used to convert to the actual fatigue cycles. This is facilitated by considering the loom speed. The graph below shows the frequency diagram of the number of cycles at which the breaks occurred on the loom. Initial study of this diagram suggests that a much more complex phenomena is involved in actual weaving compared to three parametric Weibull distribution observed in the laboratory evaluation on the Webtester. Further work on the analysis of this data is in progress which will be reported later.

Dimensional Stability, Aesthetic and Mechanical Properties of Micro-Fiber Blended Knitted Fabrics
Principal Investigators: Dr. S. Rose Matic-Leigh, Asst. Professor (Clemson)
c92c3

Objectives: The main objective of this research is to study and generate the information of the microfibers and their blends used in knitting production. The concept is to use the microfibers and their blends with natural fibers to produce knit fabrics with better fabric performance, dimensional stability, and improved aesthetic characteristics. It has already been proven that microfibers possess a great potential for use in the apparel industry. Most studies and production was done in the weaving area, but there are a lot of indicators that knit fabrics can be even more improved using microfibers and their blends. Summary: Dimensional properties of weft knit fabric have long been studied in different ways and approach during knit geometry research. The properties of a knitted structure are largely deDimensional properties of microfiber knits from open-end and ring spun yarns are being measured.

F r IO e q
U e

n
C Y 0

# of cycles * 100
Frequency Dish-ibution of Warp Break on Loom for Ring-spun Ywn Narinnol Textile Center Quarterly Report: April - Jwte 1993

termined by the interdependence of each stitch with its neighbors on either side and above and below it. Knitted loops are arranged in rows and columns roughly equivalent to the warp and weft of woven structures termed courses and wales respectively. The are determined in laboratory by using suitable magnifying and counting devices such as pick glass, rule and pointer, microfilm reader or projection equipment. It takes longer time and has lower accuracy. Variation in dimensional properties of weft knit fabric often results in differences in physical and mechanical properties such as heat retention, permeability, tenacity, resilience, elasticity, abrasion resistance, fuzz resistance, pill resistance, snag. It is

1 3

therefore desirable to have at our disposal accurate and efficient methods for quantiQing aspects of dimensional morWhile dimensional phology of weft knit fabric. morphometrics of weft knits been a rather manual affair, there has not been any progress toward its automation. Measurements are generally limited to a few attributes, however, and there is a certain lack of consistency in the use of dimensional terminology. Computerized image capture and image analysis promise rapid, accurate dimensional quantification of weft knit fabric. This report contains a number of dimensional descriptors of weft knit fabric that are intended to capture most of the variation in two dimensions. These descriptors have been put into dimensional analysis program written in AL1 language of OPTIMAS Image Analysis System. The algorithms we have used are also discussed. Image capture and processing are essential parts of this protocol, since some of the measurements we use are difficult or impractical to obtain by hand.
Description of Plain Knit Fabric Geometry

Today the term

1 lTTFuT

Or9

is known as the fabric tightness factor and d/L is known as the fabric cover factor. It was found that the linear dimensions of the loop of the plain knit fabric in both conditions of relaxation were given by the following equations: courses Kc inch-r
wales _ Kw ~-inch L courses. wales _ Kc . & = 7--

inch

111c11

KS i;r

courses/inch = J& JCr wales/inch K w

Where Kc, Kw, KS and Kr are constants could fabric dimensional parameters.

The following results were obtained from the experimental observations on plain knit wool fabrics: I Wet Relaxed Dry Relaxed
1 KS Kw 19.2 21.6

Plain fabric is produced on a single set of needles with every loop pulled through the previous loop in the same direction. Thus on the technical back both the crown and base of the loop are visible with the Loop Shape of Knit FaLwic straight arms of the loop showing on the front. A cross-sectional view of the plain structure shows that all the loops are bent into the third dimension due to the manner in which the Yarn Diameter loops are pulled through each other. The structure is thus clearly unbalanced causing the fabrics to curl at the edges in an attempt to release some of the Loop strains within the loop.
Width

5 I
3.8 1

5.3 II
4.1

Three samples of single jersey fabric, they are made from three different OES spun yarns with the same yarn count. The only difference is that the diameter of micro-fiber is different. (See Table below)

Sl

25Nell 25 Nell 25Nell

Yarn OES Spun 1 919 W 1 0.7 DPF OES Spun Yarn OES Spun Yarn 40 A 107w 1.0 DPF 1.5 DPF

Fabric Tightness and Quality

It has already been shown that loop length is the only factor influencing the dimensional properties of the knitted fabric. However, yams of different counts knitted to the same loop length will display different physical properties, such as handle, drape, openness, permeability, etc.. A fabric knitted from a course yarn will be much more tightly knitted for a given loop length than would a fine yarn. It was suggested that numerical evaluation is described as cover factor. Thus the fractional area of space occupied by a knitted loop is given by:
-I-**0 5 Area covered bv yarn in one loop --- 9 --1 L*N**O.S A L Area of one loop
where d=yam diameter, L=loop length, N=indirect count, T=dirsct count

In order to make the testing data representable, twenty images have been taken from each sample and for each index, fifty testing data were collected and mean value was given. The undyed knitting fabrics are put on the blackboard, and image is taken into video-recorder through CCD camera. One macro program is designed especially to measure geometry parameters of plain knit fabric, and is a semi-automatic operation. The testing data are automatically collected and saved into a data file. Cover Factor = d/L, Tightness Factor = T**OS/ L wllsrs d=yam diamstsr, T=yarn count (kx), L=loop Irngtb Loop length, loop width and loop height will describe the shape of the loop. Course density, wale density and fabric density are describtng the dimensional size of knit fabric.

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The following three tables show the testing results: Single Jersey of 0.7DPF, single jersey of l.ODPF, single jersey of l.SDPF have some differences in loop shape (such as loop length, loop width, loop height). For the course density, wale density, and fabric density, single jersey of l.ODPF and single jersey of l.SDPF are similar, but single jersey of 0.7DPF has imported differences with them. When micro fiber diameter increases (0.7DPF --A l.ODPF ---> l.SDPF), yarn diameter decreases (0.0207cm --> 0.0194cm ---0.0191cm). For the cover factor and tightness factor, single jersey of l.ODPF and single jersey of 1.5DPF are similar. Single jersey of 0.7DPF has some differences.

s3 Average Value Standard Deviation CV (%) N

Yarn
Diameter 0.02 0 13.51 150

Fabric Density

Cover 1 Factor 0.04 0.01 14.43

Tightness Factor 0.11 0.01 5

57.7 2.72 4.72

*S3--- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 1.5PF; Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm; Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;

Textile Structures for Composites

Principle Investigator And Reporter:
s292c12

Mansour Mohamed (NC State)

Objectives (Long Term):

*s1 --- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 0.7DPF; Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm; Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;

The overall objective of this work is to expand the boundaries of textile processing with the ultimate goal of producing new multi-dimensional fibrous structures for composite applications. The application and development of textile preforms manufacturing methods by laminated and stitched fabrics, 2-D and 3-D braiding, 2-D and 3-D weaving, and warp and weft knitting. To produce composites from these complex textile structures using different infiltration and consolidation systems. To develop and validate analytical techniques for understanding the behavior of the composites as a function of process and reinforcement structure. To develop a processing science and technology basis for the manufacturing of these materials and to develop an understanding of the interaction between processing performance. To develop a performance map of the different textile reinforcement structures in terms of mechanical properties, shape forming capabilities, and eventually, economics to be used as a design guide for their application in end use products.

s2 --- Single Jersey with micro fiber diameter 1 .ODPF; Magnification = 0.67 * 1.5 * 0.5; Measuring Unit = cm; Course Density = Courses / cm; Wale Density = Wales / cm;
National Tatile Center Quarterly Report: April - June 1993

15