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IMPORTANCE OF ANALYSIS OF FABRIC SAMPLE: - In analysis of fabric

sample all information like fiber used, yarn specification, loom particular, fabric specification is studied. Following are the importance of fabric sample analysis By analysis of given fabric sample we can reproduce it. This study gives information about which weave is used to make it. By knowing weave we can easily find out how much HEALD is required during weaving. This study gives information about which type of yarn (on the basis of count, colour and twist) is used. By this information we can find out how much yarn is required to produce particular dimension (length & width) of fabric. In Fabric specification study include mechanical properties (like tensile), chemical properties (like colour fastness). But here main objective is know how it is produce on loom, how much yarn required etc. 2. STEPS TO ANALYSIS THE FABRIC Face and Back Side: - The face side is the upper side of a fabric that will show the appearance of a fabric. And the back side is the inner side of a fabric. 1. The face side of a fabric will be clearer and softer than the back side. 2. In case of textured fabric the texture will be more visible in the face side. 3. Twill lines will be more visible on the face side of the fabric. 4. If any special finishing agents is used than it is generally are used in the face side. So the face side of a fabric seems too distinct. 5. Fabrics with fancy design have smoother weaves on the face side. On the other hand in fancy fabric the back side of this becomes loose.

Warp and Weft Side: - warp and weft are the technical terms for the two types of thread used to create a finished woven product. The warp is the tightly stretched lengthwise core of a fabric, while the weft is woven between the warp threads to create various patterns. Following steps to know what is warp side and weft side 1. By selvedge; - Selvedge is the width wise part of fabric which do not allow the revel or fray of threads. Thread parallel to selvedge is called warp and thread perpendicular to selvedge is called weft. 2. If selvedge is not there in given sample then we have to find the number of threads in one inch in both perpendicular sides

of threads. The side which has more no of thread is Warp and other is called weft. For counting Pick glass is used.

Weave: - How the warp and weft thread are interlaced in fabric is called weave. Pick glass is used for analysis of weave. Pattern: - Pattern is order of yarn in a repeat unit in each direction. Pattern show how many different yarn in term of colour, different count and different twist with ply used. In given sample. Finished EPI & PPI: - Number of thread in one inch of finished fabric in warp direction is called EPI (ends per inch). And in weft direction is called PPI (picks per inch). Counting is done with the help of Pick glass. Ply and Twist of yarn: - Ply means how many single yarns twisted together to make yarn. Generally two type of yarn in term of ply is used. Single ply means only one yarn is used like if one thread of 30s count used then represent it by 1/30s. Double ply means two yarns is used to make one yarn like two thread of 30s count result in one thread of 2/30s. According to direction of twist, it is of two types: S- Twist: A single yarn has S twist if, when it is held in the vertical position. The fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in the direction by slope to the central portion of the letter S. Z-Twist: A single yarn Z Twist if, when it is held in the vertical position, the fibres inclined to the axis of the yarn conform in the direction of slope to the central portion of the letter Z. Single yarn is generally having Z twist. Crimp: - Crimp is defined as the extent to which straightened length of yarn is higher than cloth length which contains the yarn Or Ratio of extended length (difference between straightened length and crimp length) to the crimp length in term of percentage is called crimp percentage. To measure the crimp % in warp and weft first take one inch or 10 cm thread of each warp and weft from fabric and measure length of thread after extend .then using formula

Crimp% = (Straightened length - Crimped length) x 100 Crimped length

Warp & Weft Count: - According to the Textile Institute Count is a number of indicating the mass per unit length or length per unit mass of yarn. Here count calculation is done in indirect system. For this first we take a fixed length of thread and weight it then use this formula Count = length of warp (inch) x 1000 36 x 840 x Wt. (gram) x 2.2

Weft Cover, Warp cover, Fabric cover: - Cover factor denotes the density of fabric i.e.; the area occupied by the threads in relation the air space between the threads. Ratio of threads per inch to square root of count is defined as "cover factor" K. Cover factor determines the appearance, handle, feel, permeability, transparency, limits of pick insertion and hardness of fabric. Following formula for cover factor calculation Warp cover (K1) = EPI/ (Warp Count)1/2 Weft cover (K2) = PPI/ (Weft Count)1/2

Fabric cover (K) = K1 + K2 K1.K2 28

Weight of warp and weft: - For calculating weight of warp and weft let take fabric dimension 100 yards long and 36 inches wide. Use following formula Weight of warp (in gram) = (100 + warp crimp %) x 36 x ends per inches 840 X warp count x 2.2 Weight of weft ( in gram) = (36+ weft crimp %) x 100 x picks per inches 840 X weft count x 2.2

Weight of Fabric ( gram per square yard):- Here fabric dimension are 100 yards and 36 inches So formula for weight of fabric Weight of Fabric (grams per square yard) = = (weight of warp) + (weight of weft) 100

Reed (loom EPI):- Reed means no of warp thread per inch on loom. So

Reed (loom EPI) = Finished EPI (Finished EPI X Weft crimp %) 100 Loom EPI is less than finished EPI because in finished fabric due to shrinkage in weft, no of thread in per inches increases.

Pick (loom PPI):- Pick means no of weft thread per inch on loom. So Pick (loom PPI) = Finished PPI+ (Finished PPI X Warp crimp %) 10 0

Tape Length: - Tape length is length of each warp yarn required to produce required length of fabric. Tape length = Fabric length + (fabric length + Warp crimp %) 100

Reed Width: - This term represent the width of fabric on loom. Reed Width = Fabric width + (fabric width + Warp crimp %) 1 00 Denting plan: - Denting plans describe the arrangement of the war ends in the reed (dents are the gaps between the metal reed wires).Denting plans depend on the number of ends per inch and the number of dents per inch in the reed. If we place those ends which work alike in the same dent of the reed, there will be same rubbing of ends. To prevent this, the ends which work alike are drawn through different dents. For Example, The figures A show a design and B its denting order. DENTING ORDER

WEAVE

Reed Count: - It is calculated in stock port system. No. of dents in 2 inches is called Reed Count. Reed Count = EPI/ (1+ Weft crimp %)

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