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Introduction to Hammer Veneering Master a traditional technique for stunning results Learning to work confidently and creatively with

veneer can raise your woodworking projects to new levels. The furniture makers of the Federal period exemplified this by using contrasting veneers to achieve spectacular results. Typical veneers used were bird s-eye maple, satinwood, and crotch mahogany. This use of veneers in addition to the other hallmarks of Federal furniture which included symmetry, tapered legs, fine lines, and decorative inlays allowed the cabinetmakers to build furniture that captured the spirit of our new nation. Veneer can be adhered using clamps and cauls, a press, or with a vacuum bag, but I prefer a traditional, time-tested, and, most importantly, simple method using hot hide glue: hammer veneering. I have used this technique to create beautiful drawer fronts, panels, table aprons, and small boxes. No clamps or vacuum pumps are necessary and the results are immediate and dramatic, although some prep work is probably necessary. I love this method because you are not stymied by the size of your clamps, press, or vacuum bag. You are really only limited by your imagination. So, if you are ready to build a piece of furniture in the Federal style or create a beautiful veneered object, leave your clamps in the rack, and give hammer veneering a try.

Window of opportunity Once you ve chosen the veneer you ll be using, you must decide where in the veneer you ll cut your pieces from. Looking at an entire sheet of veneer and knowing exactly which part to use can be challenging. To help you decide, make a window from cardboard with the opening in the window 3/8 in. bigger (for overhang) than the piece of veneer you will be using. Since the window will be your template for marking the veneer, carefully lay out the dimensions and make the cuts with a straight edge and utility knife. Use a big enough piece of cardboard so that you end up with a 3 in. border, and make a template for each size of veneer you need. The wide border will help you really focus on the grain. Move the windows over the veneer until you see the sections you want to use. Be sure to examine both sides of the veneer: its appearance can vary dramatically. You may have to make some compromises along the way; that s okay. Account for all of the pieces you need before making any cuts, keeping aesthetics and symmetry in mind. When you re satisfied, simply use the window as your template to draw the outlines on the veneer. For dark woods, use a light-colored pencil. Once you ve marked your pieces, cut them out carefully with a straightedge and veneer saw. To avoid tear-out on the cross-grain sections, start with very light cuts. If the veneer is flat, you can glue it down now. If not, it s time to put the pressure on. Choose your battles Because veneers often resemble a corduroy road, they must be flattened before gluing in place. Preparation and patience are the keys to achieving good results. Producing flat veneer is paramount. Trying to glue rippled veneer is a battle better not fought so take the time to flatten it. Remember the old saw: well begun is half done.

Attend to pressing matters Now it s time to get your get your veneer press ready. Mine consists of 2 pieces of in. medium density fiberboard (MDF) 18 in. x 24 in. covered with plastic laminate which prevents any glue from sticking. Pressure is applied with poplar cauls and clamps. I like to plane a slight camber on one edge of the cauls to aid clamping pressure. In addition, I notch the lower edge of the cauls for the bottom of the press to accommodate the clamps. Put the squeeze on Soak your hide glue overnight so you ll be ready to roll the next day. (I d put in a sidebar with hide glue basics: properties, mixing and storage, glue pot info, suppliers) Melt the glue in your glue pot and dilute it with water so that it flows freely from your brush. I like to use a 2 in. chip brush for this step. Brush glue on both sides of the veneer, place the veneer between layers of plastic wrap that are cut slightly oversize, and put them into your press. Never stack the veneer: place it side-by-side. Put a few layers of newspaper on top to absorb moisture. Once the layers are assembled, apply pressure with the clamps and cauls. I like to space the cauls about 6-8 in. apart. If the veneer is extremely rippled and brittle, apply pressure incrementally. You can probably apply full pressure in 3-4 hours. (Drawing of veneer press) After 24 hours I remove the clamps, change the newspaper and reassemble the press. After repeating this process for a week, the veneer should be flatter than Kansas. Put the hammer down Now that the veneer is flat it s ready to adhere to the substrate. The veneer will have a dull appearance and be somewhat damp which is fine. Now is when you ll reap the dividends of all your prep work. Working with flat veneer is a pleasure. Clamp the substrate so that it can t move and brush on fullstrength glue, completely covering the surface. Brush glue on to the veneer as well. Immediately put the veneer on the substrate and run a clothes iron over it to heat the glue. Monitor the iron s heat by touch. If you can touch the iron for a second or so, its heat is about right. (In order to preserve domestic tranquility, I d suggest purchasing an iron solely for this purpose.) If you hear a crackle when you place it on the veneer, it s too hot and could damage the glue. Remember that any glue on the bottom of the iron dries quickly and can scratch the veneer. To clean the iron, wipe it with a rag dampened with white vinegar. Now reach for your veneer hammer and channel your inner Thor. A veneer hammer works like a squeegee: by using your arm strength and body weight, excess glue is forced out from under the veneer. (Drawing of veneer hammer) Snap, crackle, and pop I follow a pattern when I use my veneer hammer. Mentally divide the work into equal halves with an imaginary line running across the work and perpendicular to the grain direction. Begin in the center of the work and along your line. Push the hammer towards the edge, applying a fair amount of pressure and working with the grain to avoid tearing the veneer, although the size strengthens the veneer somewhat. Overlap subsequent strokes by in. or so. Keep one hand on the handle and the other on the head, applying pressure. This is the time to get your weight over the hammer. A tell-tale sign that all s going well is when you hear a distinctive crackle or snap as the glue is forced out at the edges. I generally like to push the hammer, but pulling it is okay. Skewing the hammer slightly often works well

as you near an edge. Also, stop the hammer at the edge so that you don t break the overhanging veneer. Try to get all of the veneer hammered down before the glue cools but don t sweat it if you can t. Simply heat the glue under the loose veneer with the iron and resume. (I d suggest a drawing of the hammering pattern) Fortunately, hide glue is about as user-friendly as it gets. Troubleshooting As you work, watch for excess glue forming bubbles in front of the hammer. They can burst the veneer, especially crotches. There are strategies to deal with this. When you see a bubble forming, take your scalpel and make a small incision with the grain and allow the excess glue to escape. Another way to deal with excess glue is to apply less pressure and work the bubble back and forth and try to eliminate it. Examine the veneer for areas that did not adhere fully. Find these areas by tapping your fingernails lightly over the surface. The areas of loose veneer will sound a bit hollow. Gluing down loose veneer is easy. Do not try to repair it immediately, however: leave the work alone for at least 30 minutes. The loose veneer can be adhered by warming with the iron and either running the veneer hammer over the area or clamping it. For particularly stubborn areas, make a small incision with your scalpel and inject a bit of glue. These areas typically need to be clamped. Let the glue dry overnight before continuing. Finishing up Trim the veneer flush with a sharp chisel or a router. If the veneer is especially brittle, use a scalpel and back up the veneer with a block of wood. Clean off any excess glue with a rag and warm water. Any bandings or inlay can now be applied and the veneer prepared for finishing. I typically use shellac and the hide glue size helps fill the pores, making finishing easier.

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