Memories of Old Swatow

By Terence Tan

Memories of Old Swatow

By Terence Tan

Published by The Singapore Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan

 This book commemorates the 151st anniversary of the founding of Swatow and the 30th anniversary of the establishment of the Shantou Special Economic Zone


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Contents
Message by Mr. Li Feng, Party Secretary of Shantou City4 Foreword by Mr. Goh Nam Siang, President of the Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan5 Calligraphy for the title of this book by Prof. Jao Tsung-I 6 Introduction7 From the turn of the century to the 1930s13 People and customs69 The War Years75 Swatow in the 1950s87 Scenic views of old Chaochow95 Pre-war map of Swatow107


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Introduction
Memories of Old Swatow features close to two hundred picture postcards and photographs of Swatowand Chaochow in the authors collection, covering the period from the turn of the century to the 1950s. This book wouldnt have been possible without the Internet, as the bulk of my collection was purchased online, either through auction websites like eBay.com or through other postcard dealers on the Net. I started collecting postcards and photographs of these two cities sometime in November 1999, when I first chanced upon the eBay website. Most of my cards were bought from dealers in the United States, Britain, France and Japan, although quite a few of them were also acquired from far-flung places like Hungary, Belgium and the Czech Republic. One can imagine the near impossibility of building a collection of this present scale if the author had to personally travel to these countries, not to mention the amount of time that would have been spent sourcing for these cards. Originally a small fishing village in the east of Chinas Guangdong province, Swatow (or Shantou in hanyu pinyin) was opened to foreign trade in 1860, at the end of the Second Opium War between China, Britain and France. After its founding, Swatow developed rapidly as a major seaport and commercial centre. During its heyday in the 1930s, the city was home to numerous foreign consulates and foreign banks as well as dozens of western firms including the great trading houses of Jardine Matheson and Butterfield & Swire. It was also the port of departure from where hundreds upon thousands of Teochews - including the authors great-grandfather - left their villages in search of greener pastures in Southeast Asia, from the late 19th century to just before the Second World War. Thanks to foreign influence during the early years, today one can still find within the historic quarter of Swatow many examples of colonial-style buildings, as well as rows upon rows of Qilou shophouses with its unique blend of Chinese and Western architectural styles, better known to Singaporeans as five-foot-ways. This book is divided into five broad categories, namely From the turn of the century to the 1930s, People and customs, The War Years, Swatow in the 1950s, as well as Scenic views of old Chaochow. The first section includes early views of the harbour, the old Customs House, offices and godowns of the various foreign trading firms, street scenes, schools, foreign consulates, places of worship and other buildings in the city. There are also a few scenes of Kakchio Queshi in hanyu pinyin, a rocky promontory opposite Swatow city where many Westerners resided during the early days. Under the People and customs section, there are a few postcards depicting the daily life of the local population, as seen through the eyes of the foreigners.

Swatow was occupied by the Japanese during the Second World War (1939 - 1945). Japanese soldiers and civilians also snapped scenes of the occupied city and produced their own postcards, some of which are featured under the section The War Years. Swatow in the 1950s includes a dozen black and white photographs of street scenes and other well-known landmarks of the city during the post-war years, taken by local photographers. The final section - Scenic views of old Chaochow features various scenes of the old prefectural city of Chaochow (Chaozhou in hanyu pinyin), roughly 30 kilometres north of Swatow. Better known in dialect as Teochew, the name Chaochow, besides referring to the old walled city itself, also refers to the various Teochew-speaking counties of Chaoan, Chenghai, Chaoyang, Jieyang, Raoping, Puning, Huilaias well as Nanao islandthat the old Chaochow prefecture once had jurisdiction over. Historically and culturally speaking then, the two cities of Swatow and Chaochow are virtually inseparable and together they form the so-called Chaoshan region, from where all the Teochews around the world can trace their ancestral roots. For this very reason, the author has also decided to include the section on Chaochow into this book as well. Many of the early postcards in this book were published by Mee Cheung Studioin Swatow, although there are also quite a few from European and Japanese publishers as well. Most of these cards or photographs can be dated based on their postmarks or through messages written by their senders, while the dates of others can only be roughly estimated based on the year the building or buildings depicted inside them was completed. Way back in 2002, I sent copies of some of the postcards and photographs in my collection to a friend in Swatow, Mr. Chen Jinghuai , who featured them in Shantou Chengshi Shanshui, a pictorial book on the city published in 2003, with the authors permission. Years later, I found the same materials that I had given to Mr. Chen reproduced in two other publications as well : Shantou Shiji Yaolanpublished in 2006, as well as Shantoubu Tushuopublished in 2009. Oh well Over the past decade, I continued buying Swatow postcards and photographs from dealers all over the world. Today I have amassed a collection of more than 300 images, of which some 180 have been selected for this current volume, published to coincide with the 151st anniversary of the founding of Swatow and the 30th anniversary of the establishment of the Shantou Special Economic Zone. I also have in my collection dozens of wartime Japanese magazines that show Swatow and Chaochow during the Second World War, as well as several other books and publications which also contain early photographs of the two cities - including those of the 1918 earthquake and the 1922 Swatow Typhoon, but these I shall save for another day.

Compared to the ancient capital of Peking or the major cities of Shanghai, Tientsin, Canton and Hong Kong, early postcards and photographs of Swatow and Chaochow are extremely rare and hard to come by. In recent years, quite a few photo-books have been published featuring historical postcards and photographs of some of these major cities, but I have yet to come across any dedicated solely to Swatow and Chaochow. Many of the images in this book have not been published previously, and should readers be able to connect with their Teochew heritage through these old, faded pictures of yesteryear, then all my efforts would not have been in vain. I would like to extend my heartfelt thanks and appreciation to the Singapore Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan for sponsoring the publication of this book; Mr. Li Feng, Party Secretary of Shantou City, for his congratulatory message; Mr. Goh Nam Siang, President of the Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan, for his foreword, as well as Prof. Jao Tsung-I for his calligraphy for the Chinese title of this book. The author, born and bred in Singapore, does not profess to be an expert on Swatow history or to know more about the city than its native inhabitants, so any errors or inaccuracies in this book are all mine. Lastly, this book is lovingly dedicated to my late father who passed away in February this year. Terence Tan September 2011, Singapore


From the turn of the century to the 1930s

14

An early view of the port of Swatow, circa 1920s. Postcard published by the Catholic Missions des Ursulines in Swatow and printed in Belgium.

 Panoramic view of Swatow city and harbour made up of three postcards, circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

Another view of the Swatow harbour. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 15

 Panoramic view of Swatow city and harbour made up of three postcards, circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

14

An early view of the port of Swatow, circa 1920s. Postcard published by the Catholic Missions des Ursulines in Swatow and printed in Belgium.

Another view of the Swatow harbour. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 15

 A panoramic view of Swatow harbour and town. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Another panoramic view of Swatow, circa 1930s, taken from Kakchio, a rocky promontory opposite Swatow harbour. Postcard printed in Japan. (These two postcards on this page are believed to be taken from the same location).

16

 The old Swatow Customs House, located at Waima Road. Built by the British in 1921, the neo-classical building features a clock on its facade, hence it is also known affectionately as the Clock Tower. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

9 Another view of the old Swatow Customs House, circa 1920s. One of the citys oldest surviving buildings, this gorgeous edifice has been lovingly conserved and now houses the Shantou Customs Museum. From a set of Swatow scenic postcards published by the Japanese Club, Swatow. Cover of postcard set can be found on page 9. 17

 A real photo postcard of the Swatow Customs House, circa 1930s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Customs House was quite a landmark in those days - even forming part of the design of a pre-war banknote issued by a local bank!

An undated photograph of the Swatow Customs House under construction, prior to its completion in 1921. Probably taken by a British employee of the Swatow Maritime Customs.

18

 Customs examination ground, Swatow. Postcard circa 1900s (but mailed out in 1923). Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Another view of the Customs examination ground. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

19

 An early view of the Swatow Customs and jetty. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

Avenue to the Customs, Swatow. So called because the Swatow Maritime Customs was located here in the early days. Colour postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

20

 An early view of Customs Road, then also known as Broadway. On the left is believed to be the Swatow Maritime Customs staff quarters. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Another view of Customs Road, Swatow. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

21

 The Swatow Customs Club, also known as the Hai-kwan Club, where many foreign employees of the Maritime Customs gathered to unwind after a hard days work. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

The signal station at Swatow harbour. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

22

 Postcard showing the godown, wharf and office of Butterfield & Swire, also known by its Chinese name Taikoo. Circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. The British trading firm is now known as the Swire Group and is the largest shareholder of Cathay Pacific, Hong Kongs largest airline.

Another view of Butterfield & Swires (Taikoo) godown, wharf and office in Swatow. Circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

23

 Colour postcard showing the pontoon of Butterfield & Swire. Circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

A real photo postcard showing the wharf of Butterfield & Swire Co., circa 1930s. Printed by the Sin Kuang photo studio in Swatow.

24

 Postcard showing the wharf of the Britishowned Jardine, Matheson & Co. in Swatow, circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Now known as Jardine Matheson Holdings Limited, it is one of the leading companies listed on both the London Stock Exchange and the Singapore Exchange.

Front view of the godown of Bradley & Co., Ltd., another major British trading company in Swatow. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

25

 M. Sternberg Godowns of the various foreign trading houses in Swatow were a favorite subject of early postcard publishers, including these two shown on this page, issued in the 1910s by M. Sternberg in Hong Kong.

M. Sternberg Another view of the numerous godowns at the Swatow harbour belonging to the western trading firms in the early days. Postcard circa 1910s. Printed by M. Sternberg, Hong Kong.

26

 An early view of Shengping Road, near the old city centre. One of the five busy commercial streets in pre-war Swatow that locals fondly call Four Yongs and One Shengping, the four Yongs here referring to the Yongan, Yonghe, Yongxing and Yongtai streets. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Japan.

Another view of Shengping Road, Swatow. Before the war, nearly a third of the citys shops were located at the Four Yongs and One Shengping alone! Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Japan.

27

 Yongping Road, Swatow. Yet another busy commercial artery. Circa 1920s postcard printed in Japan.

The two postcards on this page are essentially one and the same. While the card above is captioned Yongping Road, the one below printed in Osaka states Diyinjin Street. Its now virtually impossible to tell which is which.

28

 Shangye Street, Swatow (then spelled Siang Ngiap Street in the Teochew dialect). The name in Chinese literally means Commercial Street. Colour postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

Huaian Street, circa 1910s, part of another group of five streets known as the Four An (Huaian, Yian, Wanan, Mianan) and One Zhenbang. By Mee Cheung Studio.

29

 A 1920s Japanese postcard of Waima Road, better known as Kialat Road in the old days. Widened and renamed Waima Road in 1924, it remained up to the 1990s the citys broadest and longest boulevard where most of the major government agencies, cultural institutions and businesses were located. Kialat Road, the main thoroughfare of the then Kialat region (Qilu in hanyu pinyin) of Swatow, farther east along the coast. It was widened and renamed Waima Road in 1924. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

30

 Road leading to the then Kialat region in Swatow. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

41 An early view of the Kialat region in Swatow, circa 1910s. The building on the left is the Astor House Hotel (see page 41). Postcard printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

31

 An early view of Kialat Road, or todays Waima Road. Masonic Hall refers to the Swatow Lodge of the Freemasons that was founded in 1913. The site is believed to be near where the old premises of the Swatow Municipal Government are located. Circa 1910s. One of a series of four Kialat scenery postcards issued by Mee Cheung Studio. Another view of Kialat Road, circa 1910s. One of a series of four Kialat scenery postcards issued by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

32

 View of the Kialat region and Swatow harbour, circa 1910s. One of a series of four Kialat scenery postcards issued by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Postcard showing street scene and early buildings in the Kialat region, circa 1910s. One of a series of four Kialat scenery postcards issued by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

33

 Kialat Road was situated on the edge of the city near the seafront. Shown here is an early view of Kialat Road, most likely taken from a ship. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Another view of Kialat Road, also taken on board a ship. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

34

 Yet another view of the Kialat region and the Swatow harbour, also taken from the sea. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Turn of the century postcard showing western-style buildings in Swatows Kialat region where quite a few of the foreign consulates, churches, schools and clubs were located during the early days. Circa 1900s. Postcard printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

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 Beach Road, Swatow, also known as the Bund. The Beach Road here is probably todays Yuejin Road. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

94 A view of Swatow during the 1930s. The tall building in the centre of the photograph is the Swatow Grand Hotel (Shantou Dalushe in hanyu pinyin) situated at Juping Road (see page 94). The buildings on the left are the staff quarters for employees of the Swatow Maritime Customs. Photograph printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

36

 Pre-war street scene, Swatow, showing a traffic cop directing traffic from a police booth in the middle of what is believed to be Anping Road. Late 1920s real photograph printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Zhiping Road, Swatow, photographed in the late 1920s. Road name identified based on the shops shown in the photograph. Pre-war photograph printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

37

 Turn of the century postcard showing the premises of Jardine, Matheson & Co. as well as that of the Swatow Maritime Customs (roofed building in the middle). Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Postcard showing the new buildings of the Imperial Chinese Post Office, Jardine Matheson & Co. as well as that of the Swatow Maritime Customs, located at the then Hai Kwan Tai Koi or Customs Road. Postcard circa 1900s (but mailed out in 1923). Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

38

 Swatows very first native post office, situated at the Hai Kwan Tai Koi or Customs Road. Postcard circa 1910s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

The Imperial Japanese Post Office in Swatow, established in 1905, also situated along Customs Road. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

39

 The new premises of the Swatow Post Office, located along Waima Road and completed in 1922. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

Another view of the new Swatow Post Office at Waima Road. The building on the left is the Yong Ping Restaurant. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Japan.

40

 Mrs. Lawrence Astor House Hotel, the sole European hotel in Swatow in the early part of the 20th century. Located in Kialat, it was run by a certain Mrs. Lawrence. Postcard circa 1910s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

The Japanese-owned Swatow Hotel, circa 1910s. Also located along Kialat Road, it is run by a Japanese businessman Kikumatsu Yamaguchi, who also happens to own the trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) which published many Swatow and Chaochow scenery postcards in the early years, including this one shown here. 41

 Anglo-Chinese College, Swatow, established by the English Presbyterian Mission in 1906 with donations from rich Chinese converts including Hou Teng-thai (Chen Yuting in hanyu pinyin). It is now known as the Shantou Number One Middle School. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

The Toei School in Swatow, established by the Japanese Club in 1915. Circa 1920s postcard issued by the Swatow Toei School.

42

 The Japanese Elementary School in Swatow (full name Japanese General Advanced Elementary School), also set up by the Swatow Japanese Club in 1915. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

Another view of the Japanese Elementary School in Swatow, circa 1920s. From a set of Swatow scenic postcards published by the Japanese Club, Swatow.

43

 The Japanese Club in Swatow, where many Japanese businessmen and visitors gathered and socialised in the early days. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

The Swatow branch of the Bank of Taiwan, set up in 1907. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. (Note: The Bank of Taiwan was established as Taiwans central bank in 1899 by the then Japanese colonial government) 44

 The main arch and gateway leading to the Sun Yat-sen Park (or Zhongshan Park) in Swatow. Like many others in various cities across China, this park in Swatow was built in 1926 in honour of Dr. Sun Yat-sen (Sun Zhongshan), revered by many as the Father of the Republic of China. Circa 1930s real photo postcard, printed by the Sin Kuang photo studio in Swatow. Circa 1930s postcard showing the Yudai or Jade Belt Bridge in the Sun Yat-sen Park in Swatow. Printed by the Meihua Studio in Swatow.

45

 A colour postcard showing the Swatow railway station of the now-defunct Chao-chow & Swatow Railway, a 39 km line linking Swatow and Chaochow city (Teochew city) up north. Circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow. Another view of the Swatow Railway Station. Built by a rich overseas Chinese merchant from the then Dutch East Indies - Chang Yu-nan (also known as Tjong Yong Hian) together with his brother Chang Hung-nan (also known as Tjong A Fie), work on the line began in 1904 and it was completed and began operation in November 1906. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

46

 A black and white postcard showing passengers at the Swatow Railway Station probably getting ready to board a train. Circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

Colour postcard showing a train arriving at the Swatow Railway Station. Circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

47

 The British established a consulate on Swatows Masu Island (Mayu in pinyin) in 1860, the year the port was founded. In 1862, the consulate was relocated to Kakchio, as seen here in this circa 1900s postcard by Mee Cheung Studio. The greyish building on the hill (upper right) is the residence of the deputy Customs commissioner. Another view of the British Consulate in Kakchio, together with the official residence of the Commissioner of Customs (building on the far left). Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. The greyish building on the hill (upper right) is the residence of the deputy Customs commissioner. 48

 The United States also established a consulate on Masu Island in 1860, and later moved it to Kakchio, a rocky promontory opposite Swatow harbour. In 1909, the American consulate was relocated again, this time to Swatows Kialat district. Shown here is the American consulate building in Kakchio, exact location unknown. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. The German Consulate in Kialat, Swatow. Established in 1873, it was shut down in 1917 after China declared war on Germany during the First World War. Postcard circa 1900s by Mee Cheung Studio. The spot where the consulate used to stand is somewhere near the former premises of the Swatow Library at Waima Road, roughly opposite where the municipal government office is located.

49

 The Japanese Consulate in Swatow was initially housed in this building in Kialat, built in 1904. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Another view of the initial premises of the Japanese Consulate in Swatow. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

50

 Japans new consulate building in Swatow, located in todays Dahua Road, was completed in September 1922. Postcard circa 1920s. From a set of Swatow scenic postcards published by the Japanese Club, Swatow.

Another view of the new Japanese consulate building in pre-war Swatow. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

51

 The Cunxin Shantang Charitable Hall at Waima Road, also known in the early days as the Charitable Guild. Built in 1899, it was one of the largest Buddhist charity organisations in pre-war Swatow. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Osaka, Japan.

Another view of the Cunxin Shantang Charitable Hall. Real photo postcard circa 1930s, publisher unknown. (Note: Shantang or charitable halls which honour the Buddhist monk Master Song Dafeng are part-religious, part-charity organisations unique to the Teochew community. Today one can find many such shantangs in Southeast Asian cities with a concentration of Teochews) 52

 Turn of the century view of the Cunxin Shantang Charitable Hall. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Statue of the Laughing Buddha in the Ganlu (Sweet Dew) Temple on Longshan (Dragon Hill), at the foot of the Sangpu Mountain. The Sangpu Mountain is situated at the border area between Swatow, Chaochow and Jieyang. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 53

 Antoine Adrien DouspisA. Douspis St. Josephs Cathedral in Swatow, built by Catholic missionaries in 1908. Most of the Catholic missionaries in the early days were French, which explains the caption (French Mission) on the card to the right. The old St. Josephs Cathedral (above), has long been torn down. The new St. Josephs Cathedral at Waima Road is built in 1999 on where the old Bishops House (right) used to stand. Postcard circa 1900s. Published by the French missionary Antoine Adrien Douspis (A. Douspis). 54

Roman Catholic Bishops House at Waima Road, built in 1918. Circa 1910s postcard by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

 A. Douspis Postcard showing St. Josephs Cathedral under construction, circa 1900s. Published by A. Douspis. The old cathedral has since been torn down and rebuilt.

Young Catholic converts in Swatow, probably getting ready to receive their first Holy Communion. Circa 1900s postcard issued by the Paris Foreign Missions Society.

55

 A. Douspis Early postcard showing a Catholic nun teaching the Catholic faith to a group of young converts in Swatow, circa 1910s. Published by A. Douspis.

A. Douspis Postcard showing the first batch of orphans taken in by the Catholic mission in Swatow. Circa 1910s. Published by A. Douspis.

56

 A. Douspis Postcard showing a Catholic nun in Swatow treating an injured man, circa 1910s, published by A. Douspis.

A. Douspis Postcard showing two Catholic nuns together with an old woman and a little girl. The caption in French fails to say more. Circa 1910s, also by A. Douspis.

57

 The Catholic cathedral in neighbouring Chaochow, also built by French missionaries. Construction began in 1885 but it was only completed in 1904. The church is known by its Latin name Maria Auxilium Christianorum, which means Cathedral of Mary Help of Christians or Cathedral of Our Lady Help of Christians. Circa 1910s postcard printed in France, publisher unknown. A. Douspis Another view of the Cathedral of Our Lady Help of Christians in Chaochow city. Badly damaged during the 1960s, it was restored by the local authorities in 1986. Postcard circa 1900s. Published by A. Douspis.

58

 A. Douspis Postcard showing children in a school run by the Catholic mission in Chaochow doing morning exercises. This shot was probably taken during the Qing dynasty, judging from the pigtails on the boys heads. Postcard circa 1900s, published by A. Douspis, place of publication unknown.

42 Early postcard showing the English Presbyterian Mission compound located along Swatows Kialat Road, circa 1900s. Besides the Anglo-Chinese College (see page 42), the E. P. Mission also founded numerous other schools and hospitals in the Swatow and Chaochow region. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 59

 Besides the Catholics and the Presbyterians, the Baptists were another group of Christian missionaries active in Swatow before the war. Shown here in this early postcard are some of the buildings within the compound of the American Baptist Mission in Kakchio. The building on the lower left is the main chapel. Postcard circa 1910s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Another view of the American Baptist Mission compound in Kakchio. Postcard circa 1910s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

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 Panoramic view of the American Baptist Mission compound in Kakchio. Colour postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

The Ashmore Theological Seminary in Kakchio, founded by American Baptist missionary William Ashmore in 1892. Circa 1910s postcard issued by the American Baptist Missionary Union and printed in Japan.

61

 An early view of the mouth of the Han River as seen from Swatow. The Han River is a large waterway some 410 km long, having its source in the neighbouring province of Fujian and emptying itself into the sea in front of Swatow. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Japan.

Another view of the Han River, this time taken from the Kwailan Bridge (Huilan Bridge in hanyu pinyin). Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

62

 Panoramic view of Kakchio (Queshi in hanyu pinyin) made up of two postcards, circa 1920s. Kakchio is a rocky promontory opposite Swatow where many foreigners lived in the early days. Printed in Osaka, Japan. 63

 Beach of Kakchio, a rocky promontory opposite Swatow where many foreigners lived in the early days. Circa 1910s. One of a series of three Kakchio scenery postcards printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Kakchio and harbour, circa 1910s. One of a series of three Kakchio scenery postcards printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

64

 View of Kakchio. One of a series of three Kakchio scenery postcards printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Circa 1910s.

Another view of Kakchio. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

65

 Colour view of Kakchio and its harbour. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Another view of Kakchio and its harbour. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

66

 The grotesque rock formations at the eastern coast of Kakchio, known to locals as the Stone Forest at the Corner of the Sea and seen in this postcard dated 1908, were destroyed in 1969. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Swatow harbour lighthouse and Masu island (or Mayu in hanyu pinyin, also known as Double Island to foreigners in the early days). Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

67

 Main gate of a foreign cemetery in pre-war Swatow. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

A postcard of the Swatow harbour in the 1930s - mailed out in Aug 1935 - showing several gunboats, probably foreign, anchored off the port. Publisher unknown.

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People and customs

 A busy fish market in early Swatow. Circa 1910s postcard. Published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

Roadside fruit hawkers in turn of the century Swatow. It seems nothing much has changed where the way of doing business is concerned. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

70

 A photograph of a group of children in Swatow having breakfast together, probably shot in one of the surrounding villages. Circa 1900s postcard issued by the Paris Foreign Missions Society.

Early view of one of the many traditional villages in the Swatow-Chaochow region with its unique architectural styles. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

71

 Farmers pumping water to irrigate their padi fields. Agriculture remains a major economic activity in the Chaochow-Swatow region. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. A village woman and her baby, circa 1920s. Published by the Catholic Missions des Ursulines in Swatow and printed in Belgium. 72

 A group of westerners - Englishmen perhaps, probably witnessing humans getting their heads lopped off for the first time in their lives, at an execution ground in Swatow a hundred years ago. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

A wealthy towkay in the early days getting a grand send-off with all the works. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

73

 Postcard showing how most Teochew women in Swatow wore their hair a hundred years ago. Yesterdays fashion, todays museum pieces. Circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow.

Wartime postcard showing a group of Swatow women producing the renowned Swatow lace embroidery, which till today is still very much sought after around the world. Japanese military postcard circa 1940s. Publisher unknown.

74


The War Years

 12 The Kau Kiok Bridge (i.e. Nine-bends Bridge or Jiuqu Bridge in pinyin) in the Sun Yat-sen Park, then also called the Central Park. The four cards on this and page 77 are from a set issued by the Swatow branch of the publishing company, a propaganda arm of the Japanese army during the war. Cover of postcard set on page 12. Panoramic view of Swatow, 1940. The first shophouse on the left is the Xinantong Restaurant. The building across the road are the staff quarters for Customs employees. Postcard printed by the Swatow branch of the publishing company.

76

 Postcard showing Anping Road during the war (then spelled Ang Ping Road), also printed by the Swatow branch of the in 1940.

1940 postcard of Waima Road (then spelled Gwa-be Road in Teochew). The semi-circular shophouse on the left is the Xinantong Restaurant. Across the road lies the staff quarters for Customs employees (on the right of the postcard). Also printed by the Swatow branch of the publishing company.

77

 Headquarters of the collaborationist municipal government in Swatow during the Second World War. Circa 1940s Japanese military postcard. Publisher unknown.

78

The Sun Yat-sen Pavilion in the Little Garden (Xiaogongyuan) traffic roundabout in the city centre. Circa 1940s Japanese military postcard. Publisher unknown.

86 9 Waima Road during the war. The 16 cards shown from this page to page 86 are from a set of Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops during the war and printed in Tokyo. Cover of postcard set can be found on page 9. The building on the right is believed to be the Presbyterian mission hospital. The former Swatow Municipal Government Building at Waima Road. Completed in 1930, this handsome western-style building was sadly torn down in the mid-1990s and replaced with an air-conditioned skyscraper. From a set of wartime postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

79

 This bridge shown above is probably the former Tongji Bridge (todays Black Bridge or Wu Qiao in pinyin). The Japanese caption reads Kachidoki Bridge. Theres a Kachidoki Bridge in Tokyo of a similar design, built in 1940 to mark Japans victory during the Russo-Japanese War (Kachidoki means a shout or cry of victory). Did the Japanese rename the Tongji Bridge to mark their victory in Swatow as well? From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo. 80

Wartime postcard showing bomb defences installed on rooftops of many buildings. On the right is the Nam Sang & Co. departmental store (i.e. todays Baihuo Dalou).

 Swatow fell to the Japanese on 21st June, 1939. The two postcards on this page show Japanese troops entering the city. The building in the background is the Swatow Post Office. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

Another postcard showing Japanese soldiers entering Swatow. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

81

 A view of the Swatow harbour, probably shot by a Japanese soldier from a rooftop. On the left are the staff quarters for Customs employees whereas the western-style building on the right - with a flag on its roof - is the Swatow branch of the Bank of Taiwan. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo. Another view of the harbour, taken from a different angle. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

82

 Yet another view of the Swatow harbour during the war. The staff quarters for Customs employees is on the lower left. Most of the buildings pictured here are no longer standing. From a set of 1940s Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

A rooftop view of the occupied city, probably photographed by a Japanese soldier. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

83

 Postcard showing Japanese personnel and probably their Chinese collaborators being ferried around the city on jinrickshas and waving the Five-Coloured collaborationist flag following Swatows fall. From a set of 1940s Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

As above. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

84

 According to the Japanese caption, following Swatows capture, Japanese troops in the city went round distributing flyers, many which were eagerly snapped up by enthusiastic residents as pictured here. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

Caption reads: Swatow residents waiting outside a theatre to watch an illustrated picture card show (kamishibai) presented by the so-called pacification unit of the Japanese army.

85

 A birds-eye view of Swatow, probably taken by a Japanese soldier aboard a bomber flying over the city. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

A photograph of Japanese troops on what is believed to be Masu as they prepare to close in on Swatow. From a set of wartime Swatow scenic postcards issued by Japanese troops and printed in Tokyo.

86


Swatow in the 1950s

 Another view of the Little Garden (or Little Park) traffic roundabout with its Chinesestyle pavilion built in 1934 in honour of Dr. Sun Yat-sen. Circa 1950s photograph. 7880 Circa 1950s view of the Little Garden (Xiaogongyuan) traffic roundabout smack in the heart of old Swatow. The imposing sevenstorey building is the Baihuo Dalou departmental store. (see pages 78 and 80)

88

 Circa 1950s photograph of Anping Road in Swatow showing a building captioned in Chinese as the Cotton Yarn Company Building.

The Textile Products Building at Guoping Road, Swatow, circa 1950s.

89

 Another view of the ever-busy Waima Road, also known as Kialat Road before the war. Circa 1950s photograph.

77 Waima Road, 1950s. The building on the left is the Overseas Chinese Travel Agency (formerly Xinantong Restaurant). See page 77. 90

 Minzu Road, Swatow, in the 1950s. The building in the centre with a cylindrical tower was formerly the Tiger Balm Factory, built by Singapores very own Tiger Balm Kings Aw Boon Haw and his brother Aw Boon Par in 1933.

Another view of Minzu Road, Swatow, with its five-foot-way shophouses and looking pretty much like a street in Singapores Chinatown. Photograph circa 1950s.

91

 49 The Swatow City Library was formerly housed in this Shinto shrine at Waima Road, built by Japanese troops during the war. Circa 1950s photograph. The shrine has since been demolished. This was also the place where the German consulate once stood (see page 49).

40 The Swatow General Post Office in the 1950s. Earlier views can be seen on page 40. The 89 year-old building still serves as a post office.

92

 The old premises of the Swatow Federation of Industry and Commerce, set up in 1953, now also known as the Swatow Chamber of Commerce. Circa 1950s photograph. The building has since been demolished.

The old Xinhua Theatre at Waima Road, built in the late 1940s. With its distinctive architectural style, it was one of the citys major landmarks before it was torn down some years back. Circa 1950s photograph.

93

 The old Swatow Grand Hotel located at Juping Road, one of the tallest buildings in the city during its heyday. 94

The former premises of the now-defunct Chinese-language newspaper Sing Hwa Yih Pao in Swatow, launched by Singapores Aw Boon Haw in 1931. It was then the sister publication of Singapores Sin Chew Jit Poh, another Chinese-language paper that Aw founded in 1929. Sin Chew Jit Poh would later be merged with another paper, Nanyang Siang Pau, to form Lianhe Zaobao.


Scenic views of old Chaochow

96

Panoramic view of Chaochow city (i.e. Teochew or Chaozhou in pinyin) made up of two photographs, circa 1940s, taken from Mount Han on the opposite bank of the Han River. Both Mount Han and the River Han are named after the Tang Dynasty official Han Yu. The bridge across the river is the Xiangzi Bridge. From a series of photographs taken by Japanese soldiers during the war.

 A turn of the century view of the Xiangzi Bridge in Chaochow, built during the Song Dynasty. The stone bridge is joined in the middle by a pontoon section made by chaining together 18 large vessels, allowing ships to pass through. Postcard circa 1900s. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. Circa 1920s view of the Xiangzi Bridge, from an early postcard printed in Japan. The bridge is a must-see highlight on the itinerary of almost every visitor to Chaochow : theres even a short ditty composed by the Teochews which ends like this : every visit to Chaochow without a stop by the bridge would be a wasted trip! 97

 The old bridge used to be supported by a total of 24 piers on both its east and west sections. Made entirely of granite, there stood on these piers quaint little pavilions which doubled as shops selling all manner of merchandise, as one can see from this late 1920s photograph issued by Swatows Mee Cheung Studio.

A wartime view of the Xiangzi Bridge, lauded as one of the eight wondrous sights of Chaochow city. Modernised in the 1950s, it was restored to its original splendour by local authorities in 2007 in a bid to boost the citys tourism. Circa 1940s Japanese military postcard. Publisher unknown. 98

 1940s photo of Chaochows famous Kaiyuan Temple. Built more than a thousand years ago during the Tang dynasty, the temple is now a national heritage building. From a series of photographs of Swatow and Chaochow taken by Japanese soldiers during the war.

Wartime photo of the original Buddha statue inside the Kaiyuan Temple, shot by a Japanese soldier. This and many others within the temple were later destroyed in the 1960s.

99

 The Han Wen Gong Temple in Chaochow, built in memory of Han Yu, a Tang Dynasty official who was banished here for daring to criticise the emperor. He did such a fantastic job governing Chaochow - including ridding the place of crocodiles - that the Teochews decided to name the local river and hill opposite the city after him! An early shot of the original memorial archway leading to the Han Wen Gong Temple, carved entirely out of stone. The temple is also another one of Chaochows eight wondrous sights. Postcard circa 1920s. Printed in Japan. 100

 Wartime view of the Han Wen Gong Temple. One of a series of photographs of Swatow and Chaochow taken by Japanese soldiers during the war.

The original statue of Han Yu in the main hall of the temple, also photographed by a Japanese soldier during the war. The statue and countless artefacts in the temple were destroyed during the 1960s. The temple was eventually restored in 1984. Part of a collection of Swatow and Chaochow scenes snapped in the 1940s. 101

 A wartime Japanese photo of Chaochows West Lake Park, one of the 36 West Lakes across China. Once a river and part of the moat girding the walled city, it became an artificial lake after it was dammed during the Tang Dynasty. Various attractions were added over the centuries, including this pavilion pictured here, smack in the middle of the lake. Another view of the Chaochow West Lake, also known as the Chaochow Sun Yat-sen Park before the war. Circa 1940s Japanese military postcard. Publisher unknown.

102

 Overlooking Chaochows West Lake is a small hillock also known as the Gourd Hill, so named as it resembles a Chinese bottle gourd or calabash lying on its side. On the cliffs of Gourd Hill can be found numerous carvings of Chinese calligraphy, some dating back to Song Dynasty. Postcard published by the Japanese trading firm(Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow, circa 1910s. West Lake is also another of Chaochows eight splendid attractions, known by its Chinese name as Xihu Yufa, which means Fishing Rafts on the West Lake. So called because of the hordes of fishermen who would cast their nets from their wooden rafts here at the lake in the hope of catching some fresh seafood. Circa 1930s photograph. Printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 103

 Yet another of Chaochows eight wondrous sights - the Ancient Pine Trees on Gold Hill - so named because of the trees that were planted around the tomb of the Song Dynasty general Ma Fa, who died here while trying to resist the Mongols who had overrun Chaochow. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow. On top of Chaochows Gold Hill, there once stood a Gold Hill College (Jinshan Shuyuan), built by a local official during the late Qing Dynasty, as seen in this 1920s postcard issued by a Japanese publisher. 104

 The Longqiu Pagoda, another one of Chaochows eight wondrous sights. Located on the banks of the Han River some distance north of the walled city, it was first erected in the Song Dynasty. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?) in Swatow.

The Crocodile Ferry Crossing on the northern banks of the Han River, where the Tang Dynasty official Han Yu once offered ritual sacrifices to the tons of crocs lurking in the river in the hope that they would stop harassing the Teochew people. Another wondrous sight. Postcard circa 1910s. Published by the Japanese trading firm (Yamaguchi & Co.?).

105

 Taiping Street in Chaochow during the late 1920s. Photograph printed by Mee Cheung Studio, Swatow. 106

Japanese military postcard showing Chaochow city during the 1940s. On the left is believed to be todays Zhongshan Road, with the West Lake Hill in the distance. Founded in 331 AD, the old prefectural city of Chaochow, roughly 30 km north of Swatow and better known in dialect as Teochew, was once the capital of the entire Teochew-speaking region in the east of Guangdong province from where all the Teochews around the world trace their ancestral roots.

 Pre-war map of Swatow, reproduced from Guide to China, with Land and Sea Routes Between the American and European Continents (Japanese Government Railways, Tokyo, 1924)

 (65) 6738 2691 (65) 6738 6937 http://www.teochew.sg/ poitip@teochew.sg 1993 978-981-07-0084-3

Title : Memories of Old Swatow Editor : Terence Tan Proofreading : Zhou Xiudong (Shantou Customs) Yang Wei (Shantou Customs) Published by : Singapore Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan No. 97 Tank Rd, Singapore 238066. Tel : (65) 6738 2691 Fax : (65) 6738 6937 Homepage : http://www.teochew.sg/ Email : poitip@teochew.sg Printed by : Kelvin Printing (1993) Pte. Ltd. Date Of Publication : Oct 2011 All rights reserved. ISBN: 978-981-07-0084-3


Published by The Singapore Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan

Memories of Old Swatow

Memories of Old Swatow

Published by The Singapore Teochew Poit Ip Huay Kuan

By Terence Tan